2. • India is the world’s second largest producer of textiles and garments after
China. It is the world’s third largest producer of cotton after China and the
USA and the second largest cotton consumer after China. The industry is
the second largest employment generator after agriculture by employing
45 million people directly and 60 million people indirectly.
• The Indian textile industry presently contributes around 14 percent to
industrial production, and 4 percent to GDP, 17 percent to the country’s
exports, and 21 percent employment. At present industry is growing at 9-
10 percent with Indian economy. Indian textile industry currently
possesses a share of 4.7% in world market of textiles and clothing.
• India has abundance of natural resources like cotton, jute and silk. Indian
products are preferred for their fine designing, embellishment and craft.
From the ages the Indian fabric designers and weavers are recognized as
one of the best in the world.
• Policies like Make in India and Atmanirbhar (self-reliant) India are directed
by the government to facilitate investment, foster innovation, enhance skill
development, protect intellectual property and build best in class
manufacturing infrastructure in the country.
3. Hypothesis Statement
To facilitate the textile sector and the communities
associated, to boost employment and enhance the sector as
the most promising sector, and to ensure that the sector
meets global markets and national standards.
Aims & Objectives
• To provide a platform where the Weavers can generate
opportunities to keep the cultural and economic
values of the sector intact.
• To facilitate collectivization of weavers for production,
marketing and other supportive activities to promote a
sustainable growth to the sector.
• To act as a hub for learning and developing innovative
designs and fabric samples and other related services
to the cluster on continuous basis.
• To disseminate information about the development in
the industry.
• To provide a self-sustaining unit to the Weavers which
can enhance the economy as well as their skills.
• Preserve and encourage the organic sources of the art
form
• To ensure a global market for the local/national
textiles of India
4. COMPONENTS FUNCTION STATUS NO. OF UNITS ALL
OVER INDIA
Composite
Mills
Relatively large-scale mills that integrate
spinning, weaving and, sometimes, fabric
finishing
most are owned by the public
sector and many deemed
financially sick.
276 Mills
Spinning Spinning is the process of converting cotton or
manmade fiber into yarn to be used for weaving
and knitting.
spinning is the most consolidated
and technically efficient sector,
Average plant size remains small
and technology outdated.
Weaving and
Knitting
Weaving and knitting converts cotton,
manmade, or blended yarns into woven or
knitted fabrics.
weaving and knitting sector
remains highly fragmented,
small-scale, and labour intensive.
3.9 million handlooms,
380,000 power loom
enterprises.
Fabric
Finishing
includes dyeing, printing, embroidery and other
cloth preparation prior to the manufacture of
clothing
dominated by a large number of
independent, small scale
enterprises
2,300 processors are
operating in India,
including about 2,100
independent units and
200 units that are
integrated with
spinning, weaving, or
knitting units.
India’s textile industry is comprised mostly of small-scale, non-integrated spinning, weaving, finishing, and apparel-making enterprises.
5. Issues in the Industry
• Cramped work environments with poor lighting and ventilation.
• Obsolete machinery and technology leads to low efficiency and poor
quality products.
• Lack of investment and research in the area of textile machinery, is forcing
imports to compete with other textile producing countries.
• The environmental and social issues like child labour and personal safety
norms are also some of the challenges for the textile industry in India
• Sector being highly fragmented it becomes difficult for the government to
monitor and facilitate
• Absence of financial discipline among the powerloom entrepreneurs
SIZING AND WARPING UNIT
WEAVING UNIT
6. HANDLOOMS POWERLOOMS
UNITS 3.9 MILLION 38LAKHS
EMPLOYMENT 6-7 MILLION 54 LAKHS
PRODUCTION 7,990 MILLION SQ.M (2017-18) 38,707 MILLION SQ.M (2017-18)
The power loom industry produces a wide variety of
cloth, both greys as well as processed. Production
of cloth as well as generation of employment has
been rapidly increasing in the power loom sector.
There are 38 lakh power looms in the country as
on 31st December, 2018 distributed over
approximately 4.82 lakh units. More than 60% of
the cloth meant for export comes from the power
loom sector.
Most of the Power loom units are concentrated in
semi urban, or rural area. Among all; Maharashtra
has highest number of powerlooms amounting to
approximately 8 lakhs of powerloom, Tamilnadu is
second with 5 lakh units, and Gujarat ranks third
with 4to4.5 lakh worth of power looms.
More than 82 per cent of Handloom production is
made by using cotton fiber through co-
operatives. Handloom production is mostly,
household weavers and revolves around master-
weavers who supply designs, stuff and often the
loom.
The greatest advantage of this sector has been
identified as the inheritance of skills and
capacities to the young next generation weavers,
The majority of the handlooms are in the state of
Tamil Nadu (600,000), Andhra Pradesh (550,000),
Assam (500,000), Uttar Pradesh (500,000), West
Bengal (300,000), and Haryana (150,000).
9. Growth of looms in Bhiwandi
Bhiwandi, located around 30 kilometres
from Mumbai, is one of the key textile
centers in India. Livelihood of the citizens
depended upon agriculture, fishing and
weaving until 1857, after which the arrival
of several Muslim families from Uttar
Pradesh and some Bengali families later-on
, the city attained its true glory and was
established as the center for handloom
sarees.
The Industrial Revolution, and the
deteriorating conditions of the handloom
industry led to the rapid rise of power
looms in the city. The shutdown of
Bombay textile mills also aided the
growth of power looms. The power loom
centers had come up to fulfill the growing
demand of grey fabric in all parts of
Maharashtra. The first Powerloom in
Bhiwandi was setup in the beginning of
1930 and today it is the biggest centre of
small-scale power loom industries not only
in Maharashtra but the whole of India.
7.5 LAKH POWERLOOMS
2017 2020
10. Organisation:
The imposition of excise duty at compound rates on power
looms in 1955 and changes made in it from time to time led to
the fragmentation of bigger power-loom establishments into
smaller ones. The excise duty rates were higher for
establishments having larger number of looms, and
establishments having less than five looms were totally
exempted from purview of excise duty. Excluding some big
players most of the loom-owners who had more than four
looms got their establishments fragmented showing four or a
smaller number of looms in the names of family-members and
other workers. Thus, the textile industry in Bhiwandi is highly
fragmented and dis-organised.
Investment:
Bhiwandi is dominated by small scale loom industries most of
which are established by purchasing powerlooms the closed
Mumbai Mills.
Investment for the Auto/Shuttle less looms come to 8 to 15
lakhs depending upon the features and origin of the make.
China looms are available right from 4 lakhs. To start a small
unit, they need to set up with minimum 4 looms for viability. It
costs about 16 lakhs and need working capital. Hence, small
entrepreneurs of Bhiwandi are not able to avail.
11. Workforce:
.
In the larger units, usually the positions like production manager, finance manager, marketing manager and
accountant, are held by their close relatives and friends, while other routine matters are looked after by employees
whose services are hired.
Powerloom Sector has various
associations and unions with
special objectives and function
for the welfare of the members
and industry.
70 % of the entrepreneurs are
members to one or other
association for about 5-20 years.
The master weaver is the financier who provides the raw material to the
owner of the looms and takes back the cloth produced by the weavers for
sale to the market.
The owner only gets weaving charges which are fixed by the master weaver
as per the market conditions. The owner has no say either in the type of
cloth to be manufactured or has nothing to do with the price of raw
materials and disposal of cloth. Out of the weaving charges paid by the
master weaver to the loom-owner he pays nearly half the amount to the
actual labour weavers and in the remaining half he must meet other
expenses, e.g., power and fuel, repairs and spare parts, taxes etc
The supervisor (Mukadam) gets monthly salary of Rs. 17,000 to Rs. 19,000
The wage-rate paid for labour weavers comes to about 300-400 Rs per shift
of twelve hours and varies as per prevailing market conditions. (9-
10k/month) .
Powerloom Associations:
40
30
20
10
Demographics :
Employs about 12Lakh people
80% people from Bihar, UP, Jharkhand, West Bengal
Majority of the workforce are men aged above 30
12. Production Process in Bhiwandi :
Raw Material
(Yarn)
• Thread made
of natural or
synthetic
fibers from
the process of
spinning
• No spinning
mills present
• Yarn is
procured from
South India,
Bombay or
directly from
the contracts
given
Sizing
• Sizing is an
intermediate
process where a
protective
adhesive
(synthetic/
natural) coating is
applied upon the
yarns surface to
strengthen them
• About 100 sizing
units present in
Bhiwandi
• Rs.16/kg price for
sizing yarn
• 600 kgs(Rs.9600)
are sent at once
Dyeing
• Process of
adding a desired
colour to the
yarn
• About 25 yarn
dyeing units in
Bhiwandi
• Most of the cloth
is sent to
Dombivli and
Badlapur, one
way
transportation
cost is about
Rs.8000 of one
truck.
Weaving
Interlacing yarns to
obtain a fabric.
About 24,500 units and
7.5 Lakhs registered
powerlooms
One plain Powerloom can
produce about 80 m of
cloth in 10 working
hours.
Rs. 24-28 per meter
market price
60% grey fabric is
produced rest 40%
includes sarees and
fabrics of t- shirts, lungis,
curtains and bedsheets.
Fabric Processing
• Ensuring a
good finish to
the fabric
through
various
physical and
chemical
processes
• About 40
fabric
processing
units present
• Process
include
Bleaching,
Printing,
Embroidery
15. Connectivity
The site is in Vadunavgar, Bhiwandi Surrounding Notified
Area ( BSNA), Thane district of Maharashtra. Bhiwandi Road
and Kharbao are two railway stations in proximity that
connect to central line railways at Kopar railway station,
western line railways at Vasai Road Railway Station, and
Harbour Line at Panvel railway station.
The site is along the Chinchoti Anjur Phata Road that is
directly accessible from Thane – Bhiwandi Highway, making
it a easy access for public utilities and for services. The site
is near to the small scale loom industries around, and has
direct access to the Narpoli region.
16. Landuse & Zoning :
Considering the existing built-fabric of BSNA and its
characteristics, the major zones in this SPA are Residential
Zone, Commercial Zone, Industrial Zone, No Development
Zone. Further, taking the fundamental aspect of BSNA's
characteristic as being that of a hub for Logistics,
warehousing and Industries.
FSI :
In BSNA, the Base FSI permitted for all developable zones
for Plot Size upto 1000 Sq.m. is 1.00 while for Plot Size
above 1000 Sq.m. is 0.95 unless specified otherwise in
the sanctioned DCR.
17. Site Criteria
and Selection
Near to the
Powerloom zones of
Bhiwandi
Industrial zone
Good accessibility
to the state and
national highways
Possibility of future
expansions
18. 1,2,3- Pond in the site
4- Site
5,6- OmRudra
warehouse Complex
7- Jayraj warehouse
Complex
8-Road to Narpoli
9,10- Nearby looms
1 2 3 4
5 6
7 8
9 10
21. Comprehensive Powerloom Cluster Development Scheme (RCPCDS)
Objectives
• Development of clusters that have a concentration of about 5000
decentralized Powerlooms or more by assistance for infrastructure, common
facilities, other need based innovations and technology upgradation
• The scheme basically aims at improving the existing brownfield clusters for
which a GAP FILLING EXERCISE for each CLUSTER WOULD IDENTIFY THE
NEED BASED INFRASTRUCTURE THAT IS TO BE FUNDED.
Funding
• 60:40 :: Government : Private.
To be dovetailed with TUFS of Ministry of Textiles
iv) Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme (TUFS):
Proposals for technology Upgradation should be prepared in a manner that
proposals can qualify for dovetailing of fund from the TUFS and fund would be
released as approved there under. For Technology Upgradation, TUFS compatible
machinery (looms etc.) would be the minimum bench mark.
Economic advantage -
Increase in Production
and Export, savings in
cost by manufacturers in
the cluster due to better
infrastructure and
Government induced
benefits, and Growth of
industry in an organized
form.
Environmental
advantage –
Availability of Effluent
Treatment Plant & Solid,
Waste Management
system etc. in the cluster.
22. • Reception
• Lounge
• Offices
• Office of the
Director
• Conference room
• Meeting room
• Record room
• Information center
Administration
Need Based Program Derivation
• Blowing
• Carding
• Combing
• Drawing
• Rowing
• Spinning
• Cone-Winding
Pre weaving
• Singeing
• Desizing
• Scouring
• Bleaching
• Mercerizing
• Dyeing
• Printing
• Finishing
• Testing
• Dispatch
Post weaving
• Workers
resting room
with medical
aid
• Changing and
locker rooms
• Canteen
• recreational
Social
Infrastructure
Information on
govt schemes
and
implementation
Completion
of Value
Chain
Completion of
Value Chain Comfort of
workers
26. Yarn Production
• Ginning is the process of removing seeds from the cotton obtained from the farms
55 % Seeds 35 % Tint 10 % Trash
Cotton from farms
Ginning
Oil, cosmetics, seed
from next crop
Compressed and
shipped for further
processing
fertiliser
1 Bale= 170 kgs of
cotton
27. Blowing Room Process
Opening:
Opening is the first and foremost operation conducted in the
blowroom process. Here the focus is to create maximum fabric
openness with application of gentle treatment and minimum loss of
fibers. This process tears apart the matted and compressed cotton
until it gets loosed and separated. Here the cotton tuft is produces
having a smaller size as possible.
Cleaning:
Cotton do contains nearly 20% of trash. Thus it is inevitable to clean
the material and remove the waste. On the other hand it is required to
measure the waste quantity along with its composition. This is named
as cleaning efficiency. The cleaning quality is expected to be optimised
at certain level instead of maximising it. This is because the quality of
fiber and fiber loss can be negatively affected by high volume of trash
removal.
Blending/Mixing:
For yarn production, blending is highly essential and these fibers can
be processed at various stages. An assembled outcome in well
mannered way is important in blending. Mixing/blending are
conducted with some focus actions such as performance of
processing, functional properties, effectively feed the fabric for further
process of carding and recycle of waste material.
28. Bale opener
Opening is the first and foremost operation conducted in
the blowroom process. Here the focus is to create
maximum fabric openness with application of gentle
treatment and minimum loss of fibers. This process tears
apart the matted and compressed cotton until it gets
loosed and separated. Here the cotton tuft is produces
having a smaller size as possible.
30. Carding
Carding, in textile production, a process of separating individual
fibres, using a series of dividing and redividing steps, that causes
many of the fibres to lie parallel to one another while also removing
most of the remaining impurities.
31. Drawing
Drawing, also called Drafting, in yarn manufacture, process of passing
the fibre through a series of rollers, thus straightening the individual
fibres and making them more parallel. Resulting single, continuous,
loose rope is called sliver.
32. Combing
Combing is a technique whereby fibres (usually
cotton or wool) are passed through a series of
straight, metal teeth in order to lay the fibres
parallel to one another. The fibres are then
placed together in a long line ('combed sliver'),
which is used to spin a smooth, even thread
33. Rotor Spinning
Sliver from the
card goes into
the rotor, is
spun into yarn
and comes out,
wrapped up on
a bobbin, all
ready to go to
the next step.
34. Singeing
• The objectives of singeing operation is to pass the fabric
from the burners of the singeing machine so that the
hairiness of the fabric is burn out and smooth fabric with
minimum pilling is obtained.
Roller singeing Plate singeing Gas singeing
Only one side of
the fabric is singed
Only one side of
the fabric is singed
Both sides of the
fabric is singed
Not suitable for
dyeing and printing
Not suitable for
dyeing and printing
suitable for dyeing
and printing
Brushing Beating
Singeing Batching/ Plaiting
35. Desizing-Scouring- Bleaching
• From the desizing process the main objective is to obtain the fabric
specially cotton fabric free of sizes so that the penetration of the
dyeing, printing and finishing chemicals made possible for best
quality product.
• Scouring is the process of removing the impurities such as oil, fat,
wax dust, and dirt from the textile material to make it hydrophilic.
• Bleaching is the chemical treatment for the removal of natural
colouring matter from the fabric.
The J-box is mainly a steel
chute with big capacity
fabrics. The fabric is supplied
from one end and pulled from
the other. The internal side of
the J-box is polished and is
insulated to minimize thermal
losses. De-sizing, scoring, and
bleaching can be performed
at once in this system.
Scouring Unit Bleaching Unit Washing Unit
37. Rotary printing Fabric drying
Fabric is fed into the printer section
↓
The fabric passes under the rotating screens
↓
Pumping of printing paste
↓
Squeezing of print paste
↓
The fabric passes into drying woven
Rotary Screen Printing
38. Digital Printing
• Digital printing is the latest printing technique that involves
the creation of prints with the aid of designs
conceptualised using computer software.
• Time and water saving as compared to rotary screen
printing
Inkjet machine with dryer
41. ZONING
A production/hr-of-plain-loom 2M/HR
B production/hr-of-rapier-loom 8M/HR
C no.of-looms-in-hiwandi 7.5LAKHS M/HR
D TOTAL-PRODUCTION/HR (B*C) 60LAKHS M/HR
E GREY FABRIC(60%) (60% OF D) 36LAKHS M/HR
F CENTER TO CATER HALF (E/2) 18LAKHS M/HR
42.
43.
44.
45. UNIT Area ( sqm)
ADMINISTRATION 1659
SPINNING 17345
WET PROCESSING 19263
SOCIAL INFRASTRUCTURE 2087
TOTAL BUILT UP 40354
Landscaped Area 5650
POND 3640
TOTAL PLOT 104371
3,60,000 KG/DAY YARN
18,00,000 M/DAY DYED FABRIC
6,00,000 M/DAY SCREEN PRINTED FABRIC
12,00,000 M/DAY DIGITALLY PRINTED FABRIC
Production in the Integrated Center
