2. Introduction - Stitch Types
Multi-thread chain stitch machines consist of stitches of Class 400
Class 400 – second most frequently used stitch type
Class 400 stitches are more durable than Class 100 stitches
Components of stitch – needle thread and looper thread
Loopers are eyed
Sequential interlacing and interlooping takes place
Simplest stitch – 401
Most commonly used stitch – 406
Machines producing class 400 do not back-tack, although stitches can be condensed to secure
the ends of the thread
3. Applications of Class 400 stitches
Used in woven as well as knitted garments
Used in high quality Button-hole and Button-attach processes
Used to attach components such as trims, rib collars and cuffs
Used to produce high-end tailored garments
4. Advantages
Strength and extensibility – Chainstitch uses almost twice as much thread as lockstitch, thus making the
stitches stronger and extensive.
Reduces seam pucker as the stitch is set underneath the fabric rather than between the layers.
Above factors lead to better production
Disadvantages
Runback : The seams can run back or unravel if the threads are cut or one of them is damaged. The
seam may also unravel from the finished end. To reduce this problem, the end can be over sewn or bar-
tacked.
5. Stitch Type 401 – Two Thread Chainstitch
Also called double locked chain stitch
Appearance is same as stitch type 101 with a flat straight thread formation similar to a lockstitch on the
face of the fabric and a loop on the underside.
It can be unraveled, but only if the looper thread is pulled in the direction the stitches were formed.
Machines forming this stitch type operate at very high speeds.
Such machines often use multiple needles to produce parallel rows of stitching.
The loop formation of the chain stitch elongates when extended. Thus, it is used for seams that require
elasticity such as setting sleeves or attaching elastic.
This stitch type is also well suited to automated sewing equipment such as automatic seamers.
Used for Knit seaming, woven lap seams etc.
6. Stitch Type 401 – Two Thread Chainstitch
This stitch does not cause pucker as threads do not interlock between the
fabric plies.
Used on long seams such as trousers as both threads are supplied by large
packages.
7. Stitch Type 402 – Cording Stitch
Used primarily for stitching permanent creases
Two needle threads are used which produce parallel rows of stitching on the face of the fabric
A looper thread travels between the two needle threads on the back of the fabric creating a ridge or
crease between the needle threads on the face.
Used in sportswear where a crease needs to be maintained or on the back of gloves
8. Stitch Type 404
It is similar in appearance to stitch 304 in the sense that it is also a zigzag stitch except the difference
that it is formed as a chain stitch and contains a loop on one side.
It is more elastic than stitch 401.
Used on men’s slacks to attach makers and curtains to the inside of the waistband.
Extensively used for infant wear and children wear
Modifications of this stitch type used for ornamental stitching – faggotting and picot edges
9. Stitch Types 406 & 407
Stitch types 406 and 407 are also called Bottom covering stitches.
They appear as 2 or 3 rows of parallel lock stitching on the face of the fabric while a looper thread
connects rows on the back.
Stitch type 406 uses 2 needle threads and 1 looper thread like stitch 402 except that it does not ridge
up.
Stitch type 407 is very similar to stitch 406 except that it uses 3 needle threads and has even more
stretch ability.
They are used to cover seams or unfinished edges on the inside of garments and to keep them flat .
Used to produce flat and comfortable seams on neckline of T-shirts or on binding of men’s brief
The primary use of stitch 407 is to attach elastic to undergarments which require maximum stretch.
10. Stitch Types 406 & 407
Stitch type 406 is also used for making belt loops on jeans.
11. Stitch Type 408
This stitch type is not listed in federal standards.
It is formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and
interlooping with 2 looper threads with the stitches set on the underside of
the seam.
A top spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the seam between
the two needle threads.
13. Stitch Formation
I. Lower looper scoops needle thread loop and simultaneously upper looper scoops upper thread.
II. Cloth is fed and one of the needles is positioned in the outside of the upper thread. Other
needle(s) come down and scoop upper thread.
III. The first needle further comes down and scoops lower looper thread and two right hand needles
enter in between the respective needle threads.
IV. Needle thread comes off lower looper and needle comes down in its lowest position. Loopers
are in the most retracted positions.
15. 1 Needle, Double Chain Stitch Machine
The machine comes with a thread spreading mechanism and
an adjustable needle guard to prevent stitch skipping.
The thread clamp mechanism, tension release mechanism
and needle thread draw-out mechanism enable the machine
to leave thread of a uniform length after thread trimming.
They also prevent slip-off of the needle thread.
Fig: 1-needle double chain stitch machine
16. JUKI: MH-481-5, 481
• Max. sewing speed-
5,500sti/min
• Stitch length- 1 to 4mm
• Pressure foot- By knee:
10mm
• Needle- TV x 7 (#11) #9̴̴ to
#18
JUKI: MH-484-5, 484
(Differential feed)
• Max. sewing speed-
5,500sti/min
• Stitch length- Main feed: 1 to
4mm Differential feed: 1 to
5.6mm
• Pressure foot- By knee:
10mm
• Needle- TV x 7 (#11) #9̴̴ to
#18
JUKI: MH-486-5
(Bottom and variable top feed)
• Max. sewing speed-
4,500sti/min
• Stitch length- 1 to 5mm
• Pressure foot- By knee: 7mm
• Needle- TV x 7 (#11) #9̴̴ to
#21
17. High-speed, Flat-bed, 2-needle
Double Chainstitch Machine
Accurate stitching performance and durable finished seams
are particularly necessary in the chainstitching process.
Both the 2-needles are either parallel or tandem.
Fig: JUKI 2-needle(tandem) double chain stitchFig: Parallel needle
18. JUKI: MH-380(parallel 2-needle)
JUKI: MH-382(tandem 2-needle)
• Max. sewing speed- 6000sti/min
• Stitch length- 1to 4mm
• Pressure foot- By knee: 10mm
• Needle- TV x 7 (#14) #9 to #21
19. Feed-off-the-arm, Double Chainstitch
Machine
The special structure of cantilever tubular is especially suitable for
sleeves, trousers and such kind of calibre things joint sewing.
Suitable for feeding the material steadily, the shape of the bed
designed to handle it with ease.
It is suitable for Men’s Suit, suit-Dress, Shirts, Work Suits, Jeans,
Tent ,Raincoats, etc.
Models:
FOXSEW: FX9270
JUKI: MS-1190 (2- needle, for light- to medium weight)
and MS-1261 (3-needle, for heavy-weight)
brothers: DA-9270 (2- needle, for light- to medium weight)
DA- 9280 (3-needle, for heavy weight)
Fig: Feed-off-the arm, double
chainstitch machine
20. JUKI: MS-1190/ (with V046)
• Application- Light-weight
• Max. sewing speed- 4,000sti/min
• Needle gauge- 3.2mm(1/8”) to 6.4mm(1/4”)
• Stitch length- 1.2 to 3.2mm
• Needle- TV x 64-NY (#12) #8 to #14, B-64
(Nm80) Nm60 to Nm90
JUKI: MS-1190M/(with V045)
• Application- Medium-weight
• Max. sewing speed- 4,000sti/min
• Needle gauge- 3.2mm(1/8”) to 6.4mm(1/4”)
• Stitch length- 1.2 to 3.2mm
• Needle- TV x 64-NY (#16) #12 to #19, B-64
(Nm100) Nm80 to Nm120
21. MS-1261M/(with V045)
• Application- Medium- to heavy-weight
• Max. sewing speed- 3,600sti/min
• Needle gauge- 5.6mm(7/32”) to
9.6mm(3/8”)
• Stitch length- 1.4to 4.2mm
• Needle- UY 128GAS-NY (#19) #16 to
#22, NY 128GAS (Nm120) Nm100 to
Nm140
MS-1261/(with V045)
• Application- Extra heavy-weight
• Max. sewing speed- 3,600sti/min
• Needle gauge- 5.6mm(7/32”) to
9.6mm(3/8”)
• Stitch length- 1.4to 4.2mm
• Needle- UY 128GAS-NY (#21) #16 to
#22, NY 128GAS (Nm130) Nm100 to
Nm140
22.
23. 4-needle, Feed-off-the-arm, Flatseamers, Top
and Bottom Cover stitch machine
This machine is used on knitting sewing, the four needle and
six Thread machine can perform a high tension and very sm
ooth side seam.
The cylinder bed and working foot can be easily go through t
he side seam and folding side.
Fig: 4-needle, feed-off-arm,
flatseamer, top & bottom cover stitch
machine
24. JUKI: MF-3620 Series
JUKI: MF-3620-B (direct-drive type)
• Application- Light- to heavy weight
(knit)
• Max. sewing speed- 4,200sti/min
• Stitch length- 1.6 to 2.5mm (standard
2.1mm)
• Needle gauge- 5.2, 6.0mm
• Needle- FL x 118GCS (#10S) #9S to
#12S
• Retainer needle- FLG-8 (#8) #8 to
#11
JUKI: MF-3620 (belt-drive type)
• Application- Light- to heavy weight
(knit)
• Max. sewing speed- 4,200sti/min
• Stitch length- 1.6 to 2.5mm (standard
2.1mm)
• Needle gauge- 5.2, 6.0mm
• Needle- FL x 118GCS (#10S) #9S to
#12S
• Retainer needle- FLG-8 (#8) #8 to
#11
25. Feed-off-the-arm, 3-needle Double Chainstitch Machine
The special structure of cantilever tubular is especially
suitable for sleeves, trousers and such kind of calibre things
joint sewing.
Give an advance on structure of tubular and fitted with
strengthening parts, the machine will be working more
steadily.
It is suitable for Men’s Suit, suit-Dress, Shirts, Work Suits,
Jeans ,Tent, Raincoats, etc. especially for denim.
Fig: 3-needle double chainstitch
machine, feed-off-arm
26. JUKI: MS-3580 Series (MS-3580S＊1SN and MS-3580S＊0SN)
JUKI: MS-3580S*1SN
• Application-Medium- to heavy-weight:
jeans, denim jackets, work uniforms, etc.
• Max. sewing speed- 4,500sti/min
• Needle gauge- 6.4mm, 7.2mm
• Stitch length- 2.1 to 3.6mm (standard
3.2mm)
• Needle- UY130GS (standard) / Nm140
(#22)
• Top feed roller width- 11.9mm
• Feed adjusting method (main feed)-
Slide-type stitch -length adjusting
method
• Feed adjusting method (differential
feed)- Lever adjusting method
• Installation method- To be installed on
the table by means of an auxiliary drive
assembly MT03
Note: MS-3580S＊0SN is without differential feed
capability.
27. Semi-dry head, Cylinder-bed, Bottom
Coverstitch Machine with digital type top
feed/For hemming
Best-suited to hemming of T-shirts and polo shirts.
This mechanism prevents problems, such as twist of
fabric, uneven material feed, skew of grain.
The digital type top feed mechanism smoothly and
consistently feeds the material straight, thereby
preventing wobbling of the material.
Fig: Bottom coverstitch machine
28. JUKI: MF-7900DRH24 Series
JUKI: MF-7912DRH24
• Stitch type-Semi-dry head 2-
needle bottom covering stitch
• Max. sewing speed-
5,000sti/min
• Stitch length- 0.9 to 3.6mm
• Needle- UY128GAS #9S to
#12S（#10S）
JUKI: MF-7913DRH24
• Stitch type-Semi-dry head 3-
needle bottom covering stitch
• Max. sewing speed-
5,000sti/min
• Stitch length- 0.9 to 3.6mm
• Needle- UY128GAS #9S to
#12S（#10S)
29. Latest Developments
Unraveling of seams generally occurs on 401 chain stitch where
either the stitch has been broken or a skip stitch occurs. Unless the
seam is re-stitched, it is bound to cause seam failure.
Breakthrough : In 2011, Yamato Ltd. Came out with multi thread
chain stitch machines with seam ravel preventing apparatus.
It comprises of a needle thread holding mechanism and its control
section.
30. References
Rathinamoorthy R. & Surjit R. Apparel Machinery and Equipments. Retrieved from
www.books.google.co.in
Multi-thread chain stitch machine with seam-ravel preventing apparatus. Retrieved from :
https://www.google.com/patents/WO2013022115A1?cl=en
Chainstitch Machines. Retrieved from : http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/cat85/
Shin J.H.S. Stitches and Seams Analysis.
