Article about my favourite places in the city in The Simple Things magazine June 2018

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PHOTOGRAPHY:FIONAFLORESWATSON
M Y C I T Y*
S EVI LLE
FIESTA, SIESTA, AMAZING FOOD AND ARCHITECTURE
ARE JUST SOME OF THE REASONS FIONA FLORES WATSON
MADE THE ANDALUCÍAN CAPITAL HER HOME
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ESCAPE | MY CITY
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How long have you lived in the city?
I’ve lived here for 15 years. I had lived in London for 10
years, then Ecuador, and wanted to carry on speaking
Spanish but closer to home. I was looking for a small,
sunny city with friendly people, lots of history and
close to interesting places. Seville fits the bill.
Tell us what makes your city unique
The layers upon layers of history have left an
extraordinary mish-mash of architecture and cuisine
– Roman, Jewish, Moorish, Christian. I’m still
stumbling across hidden corners after 15 years, and
will continue to do so – which is why I love it.
What is it like in June?
At the beginning of summer, the days are already in the
30s, so you’re in short sleeves from the off; evenings are
mild. The mood is buzzing, as warmth and sunshine
are like a drug to the Sevillanos, whose idea of heaven is
drinking a caña (small glass of beer) on a bar terrace in
their city. And it’s the start of the summer season of
outdoor plays, concerts and movies.
What time of day do you enjoy most and why?
Early summer mornings are crisp and clear; evenings
are when people pour out onto the streets to stroll, chat
and tapear (go from bar to bar, eating tapas). The
atmosphere is lively and inclusive.
What’s the nature like?
Seville is famous for its orange trees, which produce
the bitter oranges used to make marmalade. They also
provide much-needed shade along the pavements; in
winter, they’re heavy with fruit, and in spring the air is
perfumed with their sweet blossom. Vivid colour pops
are provided by judas trees, wisteria, jacaranda,
bougainvillea and oleander in spring and summer, and
we also have palm trees and ancient ficus.
Where’s your favourite outdoor space?
The city’s biggest park is Maria Luisa, which used to be
the hunting estate of a palace (whose royal resident it is
named after). Covering 100 acres, the park was the
setting for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo, and is
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* There’s no better way to get to the heart
of a city than through the people who live
there. Every issue, we ask someone,
clearly in love with their city, to take us on
a personal tour and tell us what makes it
so special. You may feel inspired to visit
one day or to rediscover the charms of a
city closer to you, but for now just sit back,
relax and enjoy some vicarious travel.
1 Fiona’s favourite
Seville view, from the
Metropol Parasol
walkway.
2 The sun-kissed
waterfront at Calle
Betis in Triana.
3 A typical Mudéjar
archway at Puerta
del Perdon.
4 Triana market – good
for fresh fish and
pastries, as well as fruit
and veg – sits on top
of a medieval castle.
5 Trails of wisteria
bring June colour to
Maria Luisa park

2. “The mood in June is buzzing, as warmth and
sunshine are like a drug to the Sevillanos”
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What’s the shopping like?
Being a foodie, I love delis with innovative new-
generation Andalucian products: chipotle sauce from
Granada, fabulous organic extra virgin olive oils, and
unusual pâtés. For clothes shops, Soho Benita, between
Metropol Parasol and Alfalfa, has quirky independent
boutiques with Spanish designers. Good traditional
buys include colourful azulejos (ceramic tiles), fans and
mantones (embroidered, fringed shawls), and you’ll find
legions of shoe shops. For handmade gifts, the weekend
craft market on Paseo de la O, by the river in Triana,
has some interesting pieces.
Where do you escape to?
You can get to the beach or mountains within an hour.
I like heading north into Extremadura, which has
fantastic cheese and unspoiled landscapes. Closer to
home, 10km from Seville is the Roman city of Italica,
full of beautiful mosaics – its amphitheatre was used as
a location for Game of Thrones.
What has been your best discovery about the city?
Abacerías (grocers) sometimes have tiny bars at the
back, with simple menus of toasted sandwiches. No
tables, no chairs, no plates, no fuss – just a bar where
you squeeze in for a snack and a glass of beer or sherry.
What do you miss most when you’ve been away?
The sun, and the vibrancy. Winding my way around
the back streets of my adopted city, I feel energised.
What would surprise a newcomer to your city?
The cheapness of the tapas, and the sheer variety of
bars – from traditional spit’n’sawdust to gastro chic.
The strength of the sun – locals know to walk on the
shady side of the street in summer, and to take a siesta
in the afternoon. Moorish architecture from 1,000
years ago, built by the Islamic Almohad dynasty from
Morocco – the Giralda, the cathedral’s iconic belltower,
was originally the minaret of a mosque, and the Puerta
del Perdon was the mosque’s entrance.
Where would you recommend someone to stay?
Barrio Santa Cruz – the picturesque old Jewish
quarter, with tiny cobbled alleys and tree-lined squares
– has plenty of gorgeous hotels such as Casa del Poeta
and Casas de la Judería. The Alameda is good, if you’re
after a more boho scene.
What keeps you in Seville and where else would
you like to live?
The sun, the exuberant people, affordable eating out,
the energy, and the tangible sense of history. I’d live in
Malaga, as the city has been transformed over the past
decade or so, and now has great museums, excellent
restaurants, and the best contemporary art galleries in
Andalucía, as well as fabulous beaches.
dotted with pavilions in various architectural styles
– the Pabellón Mudéjar is heavenly, in a mix of
Moorish-Christian and Renaissance styles. I love the
shady avenues, quiet corners with pretty tiled benches,
and the grassy areas for picnics; it’s great for cycling or
walking, and is full of Spanish families at the weekend.
Tell us about the light and colours.
The light is astonishing: vivid and strong, putting
colours and shapes into sharp relief. You need to
retreat from the sun in the afternoon – siesta time! The
colour of Seville is albero, the golden-yellow of the sand
in the bullring; many houses are painted in white and
albero yellow.
Tell us about the people who live there.
Seville is famous throughout Spain (and beyond) for its
party-loving inhabitants. The Sevillanos love a fiesta:
the main one is in April, the Feria de Abril - a week of
singing, dancing and drinking sherry.
Where are your favourite places to meet with friends?
We usually go for tapas in small, buzzy restaurants
with friendly staff – La Comidilla in Triana is a
favourite. In summer, rooftop terrace bars are the best
places to go, especially at night, as when it’s hot they
get more breeze; most of them are in hotels near the
cathedral. If we’re meeting more people later, the
Alameda, a broad tree-lined avenue which is the heart
of Seville’s alternative scene, is full of lively bars, and at
weekends is always packed late into the night.
Tell us about eating in your city.
Seville is a great place to hop from bar to bar trying
tapas. In terms of areas, Triana market and around,
Calle Zaragoza, and Calle Calatrava in the Alameda, all
have good tapas bars. Local specialities include
salmorejo (chilled creamy tomato soup), technically
from Cordoba but hugely popular here. There’s also
spinach with chickpeas and cumin – which has Jewish
roots; and tuna tartare – sustainably-caught bluefin
from the Cadiz coast, most of which goes to Japan for
sushi – is melt-in-the-mouth tender.
What’s your favourite way to get about the city?
Walking – Seville is small enough to get everywhere on
foot. There’s a short tram line, if you’re feeling lazy, but
it’s usually quicker to walk. Cycling is also great,
especially for going to the parks or along by the river;
we have 140km of bike lanes in Seville. One of my
favourite tours as a guide is taking people out on bikes
– it’s flat, safe and the views are spectacular.
1 Botellas y Latas deli
on Calle Regina.
2 La Caccharreria
café-bar takes its fruit
salad seriously.
3 A traditional albero
yellow house in the
Jewish Quarter.
4 Judas tree blossom
in Maria Luisa park.
5 Triana bridge, which
connects Triana with
the city centre.
6 The Mudéjar
pavilion, built for the
1829 Expo, in Maria
Luisa Park
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ESCAPE | MY CITY

3. FIONA’SPERSONALTOUR
Favourite shop
ISADORA
This boutique has fashion with
humour – dresses embroidered
with octopus by Malaga label
Pepaloves, and relaxed pieces
by Skunkfunk.
facebook.com/isadora.sevilla
Favourite gallery
CENTRO ANDALUZ DE ARTE
CONTEMPORÁNEO
The CAAC is housed in a 15th
century monastery.
caac.es
Favourite café
LA CACHARRERIA
On trendy Calle Regina, this
café-bar is busy from morning till
night, with healthy breakfasts
and delicious cakes, rolling into
moreish caipirinhas.
Calle Regina, 41003 Seville
Favourite bar
PURA VIDA
Of the several hotel rooftop bars,
the most relaxed is at Hotel
Fontecruz Sevilla Seises.
facebook.com/puravidaterraza
Favourite restaurants
LA COMIDILLA
Next to Triana market, this small,
unpretentious place has outside
tables and lots of daily specials.
facebook.com/comidillatriana
SAL GORDA
Try their creative dishes like tuna
tartare or prawns with ponzu
sauce. facebook.com/
salgordasevilla
Favourite market
MERCADO DE TRIANA
Built on top of a medieval castle,
its stalls offer an astonishing
array of fresh fish, plus fabulous
pastries, a cooking school, and a
tiny theatre with live flamenco.
mercadodetrianasevilla.com
Favourite hotel
CASA DE COLÓN
Stylish décor with exposed brick
and original stained glass, a
central location and friendly
service make this a winner.
hotelcasadecolon.com
Best view
Take the lift up to Metropol
Parasol’s walkway, for
breathtaking vistas of the city.
setasdesevilla.com
Don’t miss…
THE ALCÁZAR
The royal palace is the most
stunning Christian-Islamic
building. alcazarsevilla.org
1 Tuna tartare at Sal
Gorda (best enjoyed at
an outdoor table).
2 Café Piola on the
Almeda de Hércules.
3 Andalucían labels on
the rails at Isadora.
4 ‘Alicia’ by Cristian
Lucas is just one of the
artworks at CAAC
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FIONA FLORES WATSON is a
journalist, travel guide and translator.
She writes about Seville’s gastronomy
and culture and blogs at
scribblerinseville.com; her Instagram
is @seville_writer.
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