The document discusses the performance standards for readymade garments exported from Bangladesh, including flammability, care labeling, and social compliance. It analyzes test results showing that sample Bangladeshi garments met international flammability standards. It also evaluates the care labels of various Bangladeshi garment exports against regulations, finding them to be complete and accurate. The document aims to highlight standards applicable to Bangladesh's garment exports and assess the country's quality status in meeting global demand.

1. 50 Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005
1. Introduction
RMG contributes 76% of total exports in Bangladesh.
Major products of apparel include knit and woven shirts,
blouses, trousers, skirts, shorts, jackets, sweaters, sports
wears and many more casual and fashion items. The sector
currently employs approximately 1.5 million workers,
mostly females from underprivileged social classes (1).
Clothing, being the largest industrial sector, has been
experiencing phenomenal growth for last 10 years as
depicted in the Table 1. This is largely due to the simple
level of technology needed by the industry. Moreover, rel-
atively inexpensive and easily available machines, require-
ment of smaller premises, abundant supply of cheaper
work force, low tariffs on imported machines and, most
significantly, benefits of reserved markets by MFA quota
have spurred the growth of the garment industry.
At present the country exports nearly US$5 billion per
year to around 90 countries in the world which include
USA, Canada, Germany, UK, France, Italy, Netherlands,
Spain and Belgium. In fact, Bangladesh is the 6th largest
supplier of apparel in the US market (2).
In order to export readymade garments, it is now
almost mandatory for the exporters to disclose the quality
parameters towards acceptance of the product as per the
intended end use as decided by the World's leading brands.
Knowledge in regulations pertaining to the area of flam-
mability, care label and fiber products identification acts
are very important for export oriented garment trade,
which is not only to satisfy the requirement of U.S. Federal
Trade regulation but also to safeguard the interest of con-
sumers. Performance evaluation of the garments is essen-
tial prior to shipment with a view to meet the specific
requirement standards of the buyers. Working environ-
ment, wherein the garments are to be produced, is equally
important to protect human rights and the code of conduct
derives the basic objectives of social compliance issues.
Thus, Bangladesh has a stiff challenge ahead to meet the
demand of world market.
The author during his pioneering work of setting up of
an international laboratory i.e. MTL(now known as Bureau
Veritas Consumer Product Services) inside the export pro-
cessing zone in Dhaka, Bangladesh, has made an attempt to
highlight some of the essential international performance
standards applicable to the export of RMG and the present
quality status of export oriented apparel of Bangladesh.
The code of conduct applicable to the workplace with par-
ticular reference to the creation of a better working envi-
ronment in the apparel sector of Bangladesh has also been
discussed by the author based on his practical experience in
the social accountability.
2. Performance Standard
2.1 Flammability
In accordance with code of Federal Regulation, Title 16
CFR Part 1610 regulates flammability of general clothing
textiles. This standard measures the speed and intensity of
flame and ease of ignition. All items of wearing apparel
must meet the criteria of Class 1, Normal Flammability.
Fabrics classified as Class 2, intermediate flammability,
although legal, are not acceptable for sale. Those that are
Class 3, rapid and intense burning, can not be legally sold
in the United States or imported into the US from abroad.
Children's sleepwear is covered under and must meet
the requirements of 16 CFR Part 1615/1616 which meas-
ures fabric flammability by char length of burn. These stan-
dards protect children from serious burn injuries if they
come in contact with an open flame, such as a match,
lighter, or stove burner.
Typical export oriented items of Bangladesh which
have been tested to obtain flammability data are tabulated
Table 2. Garment samples were selected randomly for
reputed brands of USA. Those samples were drawn from
the bulk production by the experienced merchandisers of
garment manufacturing units in Bangladesh and submitted
for final testing. The Table 2 indicates that all the items are
passed under Normal Flammability category with Class I
standard. Burn code depicts the nature of burning character
of the items. It is corroborated from the test results that
flammability character of garments produced in
Bangladesh is satisfactory according to the international
standard.
A study on the performance and prospect of
readymade garments in Bangladesh
by
Dr. Subrata Das
SGS India Private Limited, Bangalore, India
Table 1: Garment Export Data
Year Export (Million US$) Y-O-Y Growth Rate (%)
1990 -1991 866.82 N/A
1991 -1992 1182.57 36.43
1992 -1993 1445.02 22.19
1993 -1994 1555.79 7.67
1994 -1995 2228.35 43.23
1995 -1996 2547.13 14.31
1996 -1997 3001.25 17.83
1997 -1998 3781.94 26.01
1998 -1999 4019.98 6.29
1999 -2000 4349.41 8.19
2000 -2001 4859.83 11.74
Average
Growth Rate : 19.39
Source : Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), Bangladesh

2. Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005 51
2.2 Care labeling of garments
Apparel and textiles are soiled during normal use.
Economic realities require used items must be cleaned and
refurbished for reuse without substantially altering their
functional and aesthetic properties. Consumers have the
choice to select the correct technique to restore the attrib-
utes of the textiles. With a view to assisting consumers in
getting information about clothing care, U.S.
Federal Trade Commission has promulgated
care labeling rule under 16 CFR, Part 423 in
1971 and amended it in 1983.
This rule gives accurate care information
to extend the useful life of garments. Care
labels must be permanently attached and
remain legible for the life of the garment.
Sometimes symbols may be used in conjunc-
tion with words but will not by themselves sat-
isfy the requirements.
Though there is relaxation in using only
temporary labels for products such as totally
reversible clothing without pockets and prod-
ucts that may be washed, bleached, dried,
ironed, or drycleaned by the harshest proce-
dures available, but interestingly, no care
instruction is needed for some of the cases
such as products sold to institutional buyers for
commercial use and products which are com-
pletely washable & sold at retail for $3 or less.
Care label rule requires that manufacturers
and importers of textile wearing apparel have a
reasonable basis and reliable evidence in sup-
port of care instruction. That is why different
verification tests are involved while determin-
ing the care label of a garment. For instance,
washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, dryclean-
ing are the major processes associated before
final recommendation. Symbols that commu-
nicate care procedures may be used in addition
to words, but the words must fulfill the
requirement of the care label rule. Typical
example of a popular export oriented garment
variety of Bangladesh, such as 100% cotton
single jersey T-shirt, is represented below:
Readymade garments in Bangladesh are
investigated for
the completeness,
accuracy and
consistency in
care label regula-
tion.
Major export
oriented apparel
evaluated against
the standard care
instruction are
depicted in Table
3. (Next Page)
Table 2: Flammability Data
Export Item Class Client Status
Burn
Code
Remarks
100% Polyester 150/96 Filament
Polar Fleece Both Side Brush one
Side Antipilling, 300GSM
1 Goody’s SFPOI Pass
100% Cotton 21 Wales Corduroy
77X160/32X32, 21 Wales
1 Charming
Shoppees
DNI Pass
100% Acrylic Chenille Sweater,
10.52 oz/yd
2
1 Saks SFPOI Pass
100% Cotton Denim Pant, 8.00
oz/yd
2
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Cotton Peach Canvas Men’s
Gasoline Jacket
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Cotton Boys Long Sleeve
Rugby Polo,194.3 GSM
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Cotton Denim, 12.0 oz /yd
2
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Polyester Terry Fleece 1 William
Carter
SFPOI Pass
100% Cotton Jersey, 220 GSM
Long Sleeve Crew Neck Athletic
Hologram Tee
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
Inf/Tod Girls Knit Cotton/ Spandex
French Terry Zip Hooded Jacket
1 K-mart IBE Pass
100% Cotton Twill Long Pant
(128X60/20X16)
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Cotton L/S CVC & Sew
Overlock Stitching
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Polyester Micro Mesh Taslon
Shell with Brushed Mesh Lining
Pant, 100 GSM
1 Hudson’s Bay IBE Pass
L/S Crew Neck colour Blocked Flat
Back, 100% Cotton, 280 GSM
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
Solid Turtle NK, 100% Cotton
Single Jersey, 173 GSM
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
2X2Rib Ladies Sweater, 12.83oz/
yd
2
1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Cotton Y/D Flannel 1 Dollar
General
DNI Pass
100% Cotton Denim 1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100% Cotton Knit Fabric 1 Hudson’s Bay DNI Pass
100%Cotton Men L/S Shirt, 5.26oz/
yd
2
1 VF Asia DNI Pass
100% Cotton Y/D Oxford Men L/S
Shirt, 5.15 oz/ yd2
1 VF Asia DNI Pass
100% Cotton Y/D Oxford Men’s
L/S Shirt, 5.10 oz/yd
2
1 VF Asia DNI Pass
100% Cotton S/Jersey Fabrics for
L/S Layered Sleeve T-Shirt
1 Target DNI Pass
100% Nylon 400mm PU Coated
Fabric
1 Target IBE Pass
100% Cotton Twill 1 VF Asia DNI Pass
100% Cotton V-neck Long Sleeve
2x2 Rib Stripe Pullover
1 Abercrom-bie
& Fitch
DNI Pass
85% Cotton 15% Viscose
fabric,136-140 GSM
1 Dillard’s DNI Pass
100% Cotton 6 Wales Corduroy
Blazer
1 Brylane SFBB Pass
100% Cotton Long sleeve Men
Shirt, 6.79 oz/ yd
2
1 Gap DNI Pass
98% Cotton 2% Spandex Ladies
Woven Skirts
1 Charming
Shoppees
DNI Pass
IBE : Ignited But Extinguished; DNI : Did Not Ignite; BB : Base Burn
SFPOI: Surface Flash, At Point of Impingement only.
SFBB : Surface Flash Base Burn
Symbols Description
Machine Wash
Cold, Gentle
Cycle
Use Only Non-
Chlorine Bleach
When Needed
Tumble Dry Low
Warm Iron As
Needed
300
C
l
l
l l

3. 52 Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005
Table 3: Determination of Care Instruction
No. Item Name of
Client
Standard Care Instruction / Vendor
Proposed
Evaluated Care Instruction
1
70% Acrylic 30%
Wool Ladies Long
Sleeve Cardigan
Saks
Hand wash cold, Wash Separately or with like
Colors, only Non-Chlorine Bleach when
needed, Reshape and dry flat.
Hand wash cold, Wash Separately or with
Like Colors, only Non-Chlorine Bleach When
Needed, Reshape and dry flat.
2
100% Cotton Toddler
Twill Shortall
Saks
Machine Wash Warm, Wash Separately or with
Like colors, Only Non-Chlorine Bleach when
Needed, Tumble Dry Low, Warm Iron when
Needed.
Machine Wash Warm, Wash Separately or
with Like colors, Only Non-Chlorine Bleach
when Needed, Tumble Dry Low, Warm Iron
when Needed.
3
100% Cotton Toddler
Denim Shortall
Saks
Machine wash Cold, Wash Separately or with
Like colors, Only Non-Chlorine Bleach when
Needed, Tumble Dry Low, Warm Iron when
Needed.
Machine wash Cold, Wash Separately or with
Like colors, Only Non-Chlorine Bleach when
Needed, Tumble Dry Low, Warm Iron when
Needed.
4
100% Cotton Canvas
Cargo Shorts Saks
Machine Wash Cold, With Similar Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Remove Promptly, Warm Iron if
Needed.
Machine Wash Cold, With Similar Colors,
Only Non -Chlorine Bleach When Needed,
Tumble dry Low, Remove Promptly, Warm
Iron if Needed.
5
65% Poly 35% Cotton
L/S Aviator Shirt
(Poplin)
Brylane
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Use
Only Non-Chlorine Bleach, Tumble dry
Medium, Medium Steam Iron.
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Use
Only Non -Chlorine Bleach, Tumble dry
Medium, Medium Steam Iron.
6
60% Cotton 40%
Polyester Poplin CVC
Big shirt
Brylane
Wash Dark colors Separately, Machine Wash
Warm, Use Only Non-Chlorine Bleach, Tumble
Dry medium, Medium Steam Iron.
Wash Dark colors Separately, Machine Wash
Warm, Use Only Non-Chlorine Bleach,
Tumble Dry medium, Medium Steam Iron.
7
100% Cotton Sheeting
L/SLV Pigment Dyed
Shirt
Brylane
Wash Dark Colors Before Wearing, Machine
wash warm, Use Only Non-Chlorine Bleach,
Tumble Dry medium, Medium steam Iron.
Wash Dark Colors Before Wearing, Machine
wash warm, Use Only Non-Chlorine Bleach,
Tumble Dry medium, Medium steam Iron.
8
60% Cotton 40%
Polyester Poplin CVC
Big Shirt
Brylane
Machine Wash Warm, Wash Dark Colors
Separately, Use Only Non -Chlorine Bleach,
Tumble Dry Medium, Remove Promptly,
Medium Steam Iron.
Machine Wash Warm, With Like Colors, Do
Not Bleach, Tumble Dry Medium, Remove
Promptly, Medium Steam Iron.
9
100% Cotton Y/Dyed
Stripe Long Sleeve
Men’s Shirt
VF Asia
Machine wash Cold, With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Remove
Immediately, Tumble Dry Low, Medium Iron.
Machine wash Cold, With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Remove
Immediately, Tumble Dry Low, Medium Iron.
10.
100% Cotton Men’s
Knitted L/S Jersey
Crew Neck Sweater
K-mart
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Gentle
cycle, Tumble Dry low, Use Only Non-Chlorine
Bleach When Needed
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors,
Gentle cycle, Tumble Dry low, Use Only Non-
Chlorine BleachWhen Needed
11.
100% Cotton Canvas
Simple Capriall
Overall
Target
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
Dry Low, Remove Promptly, Warm Iron When
Needed.
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
Dry Low, Remove Promptly, Warm Iron
When Needed.
12.
100% Cotton Denim
Fabric For Boys
Jacket
AMC
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Warm iron When Needed.
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Warm iron When Needed.
13.
60% Cotton 40%
Polyester Fleece for
Boy’s Jacket
Carrefour
Machine Wash Cold, Do Not Bleach, Do Not
Dryclean, Do Not Tumble Dry, Cool Iron When
Needed.
Machine Wash Cold, Do Not Bleach, Do Not
Dryclean, Do Not Tumble Dry, Cool Iron
When Needed.
14.
100% Acrylic
Chenille Goody’s
Machine Wash Cold, With Similar colors Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry low, Remove Promptly, Warm Iron if
Needed.
Machine Wash Cold, With Similar colors
Only Non -Chlorine Bleach When Needed,
Tumble dry low, Remove Promptly, Warm
Iron if Needed.
15.
100% Cotton Men’s
Y/D Flannel Shirt Goody’s
Machine Wash cold With Similar Colors, Do
not Bleach, Tumble dry Low, Remove
Promptly.
Machine Wash cold With Similar Colors, Do
not Bleach, Tumble dry Low, Remove
Promptly. Warm iron if Needed.
16.
94% Cotton 6%
Elastane 2X2 Rib for
T-Shirt.
DSL
Machine Wash Warm, Do not Bleach, Cool Iron
if Needed, Do not Dry clean, Do not tumble
Dry.
Machine Wash Warm, Do not Bleach, Cool
Iron if Needed, Do not Dry clean, Do not
tumble Dry.
17.
55% Cotton 45%
Acrylic L/S Mock Nk
Half Cardigan With
Zipper
A & F
Hand Wash cold, Only Non-chlorine Bleach
When needed, Lay Flat to Dry, Cool Iron if
Necessary.
Machine Wash Cold, Tumble dry low, Do Not
Bleach, Cool Iron if Necessary.
18.
60% Cotton 20%
Nylon 20% wool
Saddle Crew
A & F DryClean Only DryClean Only
19.
100% Polyester
Ignitor Zip Off Pant
Dillard’s
Machine Wash Warm, Only Non-chlorine
When Needed, Tumble Dry medium.
Machine Wash Warm, Only Non -chlorine
When Needed, Tumble Dry medium.
20.
65% Polyester 35%
Cotton, 130-140 GSM Dillard’s
Machine Wash Warm, Separately Only Non-
Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble Dry
Medium.
Machine Wash Warm, Separately Only Non -
Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble Dry
Medium.
21.
100% Polyester Boy’s
Toddlar Nordic
Happy Kids
Machine Wash Cold With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
Machine Wash Cold With Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble

4. Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005 53
It has been observed that in majority of cases proposed
care instructions by the garment manufacturers are similar
to those obtained through product verification. Deviation
of care instruction in around 12% cases may be due to the
wrong submission of care advice to the nominated labora-
tories of the brand buyers before final inspection, which
had been subsequently revised and correctly proposed
during final shipment of the consignment. Bleaching
instruction is an important factor affecting the evaluation of
care label. In fact, failure in the care instruction in the rele-
vant case is due to incorrect bleaching advice only.
Sometimes, for exports to USA, multiple care instruc-
tions are provided when one style has different colourways.
This is also due to the failure of some colours in the bleach-
ing test. Care label recommendations, in this case, depend
on colour. And the judgement must be directed to prohibit
the use of one standard care label for all colours. In certain
exception and mainly due to commercial reason, buyers
tend to use a safe care instruction which may be applicable
to all colours in the same style. However, such cases are
obviously considered as violation of the FTC rules & regu-
lations for care labeling.
2.3 Fiber products identification
The textile Fiber Products Identification Act was
passed to protect the public against mis-branding and false
advertising" of textile articles. This act is under the juris -
diction of the Federal Trade Commission.
Under this act, the generic name, and percentage of all
fibers in amounts of 5% or more, must be listed in predom-
inance by weight . Fiber trade names may be used in con-
junction with generic name, but may not be used
exclusively. Fibers present in amounts less than 5% can not
be identified by their generic names but should be labeled
as "Other fibers" unless the fibers have functional signifi-
cance, such as 96% Cotton and 4% Spandex for elasticity.
However, Wool fiber that is present in amounts less than
5% should be disclosed under Wool Products Labeling Act.
No tolerance exists for products made wholly of one
fiber. In such a case, product should be labeled as"100%"
or "All". But there is a ± 3% tolerance, by weight, for prod-
ucts composed of more than one fiber.
According to this act, different garment products
exported from Bangladesh to the leading stores in USA in
the month of May 2003 were evaluated by using the
AATCC 20A, ASTM D 629 and ASTM D 1909. The iden-
tified fiber content is presented in the Table 4 along with
the proposed label of garment producers. The garments
were submitted to a third party for verification before final-
ization of fiber content label.
It has been found from the above Table that Fiber
Products Identification Act was not satisfied in 45% cases
due to the improper disclosure of label on the submitted
garment samples. Further investigation revealed that
exporters did not consider the trimming portion of the gar-
ments which includes braiding, collars, embroidery,
appliques etc. while preparing the fiber label. In fact, as per
the regulation, the statement "Exclusive of Decoration"
should have been included in the label along with the
actual fiber content because of the following reasons:
i) Decorative trim or design does not exceed 15% of the
surface area of the product.
ii) No representation is made about the fiber content of
the decorative portion.
iii) Difference in fiber content of base fabric with refer-
ence to trim.
22.
Boys (4/16) S/S Solid
Polo Knit Top, 65%
Polyester 35% Cotton
K-mart
Machine Wash Cold, With Like Colors, Gentle
Cycle, Tumble dry low, Use Only Non-Chlorine
Bleach When Needed.
Machine Wash Cold, With Like Colors,
Gentle Cycle, Tumble dry low, Use Only Non-
Chlorine Bleach When Needed.
23.
Toddler Girls Knit
Top, 65% Polyester
35% Cotton
K-mart Machine Wash Warm, Gentle Cycle, Do not
Bleach, Tumble dry low.
Machine Wash Warm, Gentle Cycle, Do not
Bleach, Tumble dry low.
24.
Men’s S/S 55%
Cotton 45% Rayon
Woven Shirt
Costco
Machine wash Cold with Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Warm Iron.
Machine wash Cold with Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Warm Iron.
25.
60% Cotton 40%
Polyester Boys Top &
Bottom Thermal
U/Wear Set
KRU Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle, Tumble Dry
Low.
Machine Wash Cold, Gentle Cycle Tumble
Dry Low, Use Only Non Chlorine Bleach
When Needed. Warm Iron if Needed.
26.
100% Cotton Printed
Floor Sock
Meijer
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Use
Only Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed,
Tumble dry Low.
Machine Wash Warm With Like Colors, Use
Only Non -Chlorine Bleach When Needed,
Tumble dry Low.
27.
88% Cotton 12%
Polyester Men’s L/S
Shirt
PVH
Machine Wash Warm, with Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Remove Promptly, Touch of With
Steam Iron If Desired.
Machine Wash Warm, with Like Colors, Only
Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed, Tumble
dry Low, Remove Promptly, Touch of With
Steam Iron If Desired.
28.
100% Cotton Canvas
Ladies Shorts/Skirts
Promod
Machine Cold, Gentle Cycle , Do not Bleach,
cool Iron if Needed, Dryclean, Do not Tumble
Dry.
Machine Cold, Gentle Cycle , Do not Bleach,
cool Iron if Needed, Dryclean, Do not Tumble
Dry.
29.
100% Cotton Fleece
for Girls Tricot
Lindex Machine Wash Hot, Normal Cycle , Do not
Bleach, Hot Iron, Dry Clean, Tumble Dry Iron.
Machine Wash Hot, Normal Cycle, Do not
Bleach, Hot Iron, Dry Clean, Tumble Dry
Iron.
30. 100% Cotton Boy’s
L/S T-Shirt with Emb.
/ Applique
Lindex
Machine Wash Hot, Normal Cycle, Do not
Bleach, Hot Iron, Dry Clean, Line dry.
Machine Wash Hot, Normal Cycle, Do not
Bleach, Hot Iron, Dry Clean, Line dry.

5. 54 Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005
2.4 Seam strength
In garment industry, stitching of different areas of a
product is a key character to determine the quality. The
efficiency of which depends on strength, elasticity, durabil-
ity, security and appearance of the constructed seam bal-
anced with the properties of the material to be joined. Seam
strength/slippage is also a parameter in the apparel trade
for acceptance testing of a product manufactured under a
particular international brand.
Seam strength property of ran-
domly selected garment products was
evaluated for brand buyers of USA
and tabulated duly. The test was car-
ried out at 21ºC and 65% relative
humidity by following ASTM D 1683.
It has been observed from the
results that the requirement of the
buyers for selected seam points of var-
ious garments are fulfilled satisfacto-
rily. In actual cases, all the stress areas
of the seam throughout the garments
were tested and similar trend was
found. This reveals that the export ori-
ented garments of Bangladesh are
acceptable for seam strength proper-
ties to the international buyers.
2.5 Colour fastness to laundering
Various export oriented garments
of Bangladesh were subjected to
accelerated laundering by using
AATCC 61, 2A, depending on the care
label recommendations.
Colour fastness to laundering for
export oriented garments of different
brand buyers of USA is depicted in
Table 6. Test results of this accelerated
evaluation are the simulation of colour
change effects of five typical home or
commercial laundering. Required
level of acceleration has been
achieved by purposely increasing cer-
tain parameter such as temperature.
It is corroborated from the study
that requirements of buyers were not
satisfied in only 9% cases, which
reflects the suitability of garment
items of Bangladesh for international
garment arena.
2.6 Colour fastness to crocking
Colour fastness to crocking is
regarded as one of the easiest ways to
examine the performance of a garment
in day to day use. Thus, lot of empha-
sis has been given by the internation-
ally reputed buyers on this important
property.
To assess the quality of RMG of
Bangladesh with respect to this prop-
erty, several cases were studied for
reputed buyers of USA market by determining the colour
fastness to crocking by using the method AATCC-8.
The results enumerated in indicate that colour fastness
to crocking for garment products of Bangladesh meets
international requirement standards of reputed stores
except in one case. As per the requirements of buyers, con-
sumers are to be informed if the result of the crocking is
Table 4: Identification of Fiber Composition
Product Client Proposed Fiber Content Identified Fiber Content Remarks
Men’s Woven Jacket
(Water Resistant)
USA 100% Polyester 100% polyester Pass
Infant Boys CVC
Jersey Knit Top
USA 60% Cotton 40%
Polyester Exclusive of
Decoration
59.1% Cotton 40.9%
Polyester
Fail
Girls Printed Velour
Top
USA 100% Polyester 100% Polyester Pass
Girls Hooded Velour
Top
USA 100% Polyester 100% polyester Pass
Ladies Cotton
Streaky Denim
Woven Shorts
USA 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Pass
Toddler Girls Knit
Top With Woven
Jumper
USA 65% Polyester 35%
Cotton
65.5% Polyester 34.5%
Cotton
Pass
Boys SwimTrunk USA Shell : 100% Polyester
Lining : 100% Polyester
Shell : 100% Polyester
Lining : 100% Polyester
Pass
Ladies Woven
Overall
USA 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Exclusive
of Decoration
Fail
Infant Girls Knit
Top With Woven
Pant
USA 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Exclusive
of Decoration
Fail
Toddler Boys Knit
Top Nylon Woven
Pant Set
USA 65% Cotton 35%
Polyester
65.7% Polyester 34.3%
Cotton Exclusive of
Decoration
Fail
Men’s Long Sleeve
Crew Neck Tee Knit
Top
USA 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Exclusive
of Decoration
Fail
Ladies Cotton
Corduroy Woven
Jean Jacket
USA Body:
97% Cotton 3% Spandex
Denim Portion
90% Cotton 8% Nylon
2% Spandex
97% Cotton 3% Spandex
Exclusive of Decoration
Fail
Ladies Cord Woven
Skirt
USA 97% Cotton 3% Spandex 97% Cotton 3% Spandex Pass
Ladies Woven Skirt USA 90% Cotton 8% Nylon
2% Spandex
91% Cotton 7.4% Nylon
1.6%Spandex
Pass
Toddler Girls Top
With Jumper
USA Top
65% Polyester 35%
Cotton
Jumper
100% Cotton
Top
100% Cotton
Jumper
100% Cotton Exclusive
of Decoration
Fail
Infant Girls Top
With Overall
USA Top
100% Cotton
Overall
100% Cotton
Top
100% Cotton
Overall
100% Cotton Exclusive
of Decoration
Fail
Infant/Toddler Boys
Knit Fleece Jacket
USA 100% Polyester 100% Polyester Pass
Boys CVC Solid
Knit Top
USA 65% Cotton 35%
Polyester
Exclusive of Decoration
65.2% Cotton 34.8%
Polyester Exclusive of
Decoration
Pass
Toddler Girls
Top/Pant Set
USA Top
65% Polyester
35% Cotton
Pant
100% Cotton
Top
67.2% Polyester
32.8% Cotton
Exclusive of Decoration
Pant
100% Cotton
Exclusive of Decoration
Fail
Infant Toddler Boys
Woven Shirt
USA 100% Cotton 100% Cotton Pass

6. Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005 55
failed at original state and is passed after one wash stage. It
is, therefore, mandatory to add the statement "Wash before
Wearing" on the care instruction label in such cases.
2.7 Dimensional stability to washing
Dimensional change of garment after washing and
drying is a favorite and essential parameter for consumers
to judge the suitability its for the intended end use. In order
to do performance evaluation of export oriented garments
of Bangladesh, some products were tested wherein the
actual shrinkage and related change in skewness / torque
were measured vis-à-vis
acceptable limits of reputed
buyers. Dimensional Stability
was measured according to
AATCC 135 and AATCC 150,
and the skewness / torque
change was determined by
AATCC 179.
It has been found that, in
around 21% cases, garments
could not satisfy the require-
ment of buyers. In fact, the
reported shrinkage is not only
affected by original fabric but
also factors such as construc-
tion of garment, tensions
applied in related processes,
use of sewing threads and
trims are responsible for the
drift from the desired bench
mark of shrinkage. However,
the change in skewness /
torque is within the limit of
acceptance in the international
consumer market.
3. Social accountability
It is not only the quality of
garments which is an impor-
tant aspect, but working envi-
ronment plays a major role to
strengthen consumer confi-
dence and to build-up more
reliable relationships with
vendors. In order to do so, the
reputed and leading market
players in the garment trade
have imposed compulsion on
the related factories to achieve
those objectives as a condition
of the export contract. Even
the exports were either with-
held or cancelled elsewhere in
the event of non-compliance
to such issues.
Code of conduct (COC)
Social Accountability
standards have been devel-
oped by the international
organizations such as FLA, WRAP, CEPAA, ETI and BSR.
Reputed brand buyers in large supply chain have taken the
guideline from those organizations and formulated their
own standard of COC and also the acceptance criteria.
The basic principles of COC have been derived from
the principles of international human rights norms as delin-
eated in International Labour Organization Conventions,
the United Nations Convention on the Rights of the Child
& Universal Declaration of Human Rights.
Table 5 : Seam Strength Data
No. Sample
Description
Client Required Seam
Strength (lbs)
Evaluated Seam
Strength (lbs)
Remarks
1 Men’s Y/D
Flannel Shirt
Dollar General Woven Seam: 20 1) Side: 36.59 (FR)
2)Yoke: 56.40 (FR)
3) Shoulder 58.98 (FR)
Pass
2 100% Cotton
L/S Solid
Corduroy
Goody’s Woven Seam: 15
Pocket
Functional Seam : 10
1) Side: 22.50 (FR)
2) Shoulder: 23. 97 (FR)
3) Pocket
Functional : 10.10 (FR)
Pass
3 Boys 4-16 TC
S/S Y/D Pique
Polo Top
K-mart 50% elongation
or 7
1) Side : 80-89 (FR)
2) Shoulder : 99.33(FR)
3) Head
Opening : 71.44 (TB)
Pass
4 Men’s
Cotton/Nylon
Solid Woven
Swim trunk
Kmart Woven: 20 1) Side: 72-40 (TB)
2) Seat : 60-86 (FR)
3) Waist: 180.30 (TB)
Pass
5 Ladies Cotton
Ribbed Sweater
Knit Top.
K-Mart 50% elongation or 7 1) Side : 52.32. (FR)
2) Arm
Opening: 31.62 (FR)
Pass
6 Ladies Cotton
Twill woven
Overall
K-Mart 20 I) Side : 75.76 (YS)
II) Back Rise
: 80.56 (FR)
III) Crotch : 73.77 (YS).
Pass
7 Functional
Fleece Pull on
Pant
Target 30% Elongation or 6 I) Side: 55.09 (TB)
II) Waist: 49.99(TB)
(III) Seat : 109.50 (TB
,FR)
Pass
8 Men’s Sport
Shirt
Shopko 20 I) Side: 55.09 (TB)
II) Yoke : 34.52 (YS)
(III) Seat: 109.50 (TB,
FR)
Pass
9 Fall 2003 Men’s
Denim Shirt
Goody’s 15 I) Side : 28.24(YS)
II) Yoke : 79.33 (FR)
III) Shoulder : 79.38 YS)
Pass
10 100% Rayon
Ladies S/S Long
Dress
Target Woven Seam : 20 i) Side: 35.46(TB)
ii) Shoulder 34.50 (TB)
iii) Bottom: 27.57(YS)
Pass
11 100% Cotton
Men’s L/S BTM
Down Shirt
Target Woven Seam : 25
Pocket Functional
Seam: 10
i) Side : 37.29 (YS)
ii) Yoke : 39.87 (FR)
iii) Pocket (F) 6.39 (TB)
Pass
12 Girls Woven
Cotton Denim
Baseball Jacket
K-mart Denim Woven
Seam: 40
i) Side : 74. 55 (YS)
ii) Arm: 75. 92 (FR)
Pass
13 Girl woven
Cotton Spandex
Solid Corduroy
Pant
K-mart Woven Seam: 20 i) Side : 21.85(YS)
ii) Back Rise : 23. 46
(YB)
iii) Crotch: 61.91 (FR)
Pass
14 Boot Print Patch
Denim Overall
Gymboree Woven Seam : 20 i) Side: 101. 80(FR)
ii) Seat: 87.90 (YS)
iii) Waist: 158.90(FR)
Pass
15 Tod Girl &
Girl’s 3 in 1
woven Coat
K-mart Woven Seam: 20
Lbs.
Pocket Functional
Seam : 15
i) Side : 60.81 (TB)
ii) Shoulder 38. 28 (TB)
iii Pocket 24.91
Pass
16. 100% Cotton
Denim Pant
Shopko Woven Seam: 20 Side: 22.09 (YS)
Waist: 52.19 (TB)
Seat: 32.56 (YS)
Pass

7. 56 Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005
The nine core areas
addressed as follows:
1. Child labour
2. Forced labour
3. Health and safety
4. Compensation
5. Working hours
6. Discrimination
7. Discipline
8. Free association and
collective bargaining
9. Management
systems
While following the
above criteria is compul-
sory for satisfying COC,
local culture and regula-
tion of Govt. can not be
overlooked. For instance,
limit of working hours and
compensation for extra
work may not be the same
for all geographical zones
in the globe. Minimum
basic wage also depends
on the economic situation
of a particular country in
question. The introduction
of rights of free association
and collective bargaining
is guided by the political
environment, the maturity
level of workforce and
above all the basic training
of the management of the
organization.
Current level of main-
tenance of compliance
with hygiene and safety
standards is not adequate
in Bangladesh and the
reported tragedies like the
incidence of fire in the gar-
ment industry (4) support
the fact to a certain degree.
Such accidents seriously
tarnish the image of
Bangladesh and could
cause buyers to turn to
countries where tragedies
of this type are less likely
or are hidden from the
international press.
In spite of the promul-
gation of laws by the
Government, the majority
of garment workers remain
deprived of their legal
Table 6: Colorfastness to Laundering
NO. Sample Description Client Required
Colorfastness to
Laundering
Evaluated
Colorfastness
to Laundering
Remarks
1. Long Sleeve Men’s Shirt VF ASIA C.C. 4.0 C.C. 4.5 Pass
2. Men’s Sports Shirt Dollar General C.C. 3.0 C.C. 4.0 Pass
3. Infant / Toddler Girls Polar
Fleece Hooded Pull Over L/S
Top
K-mart C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.0
C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.5
Pass
4. Boot Print Patch Denim Overall Gymboree C.C. 3.0
S.S. 4.5
C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.5
Pass
5. Cord Pull on Pant Hudson’s Bay C.C. 4.0 C.C. 4.0 Pass
6. 100% Cotton Men’s L/S Denim
Over Shirt
Target C.C. 3.0
M.F.S.3.0
C.C. 4.0
Ace 4.0
Cot 4.5
Nyl 3.5
Poly 4.5
Acry 4.5
Wool 4.0
Pass
7. 100% Rayon Crinkle Print
Fabric
Target C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.0
M.F.S. 4.0
C.C. 4.5
S.S. 4.5
Ace 4.5
Cot 4.5
Nyl 4.5
Poly4-5
Acry4-5
Wool4-5
Pass
8. Cargo Pocket Fleece Pant Hudson’s Bay C.C. 4.0
M.F.S. 4.0
C.C.4.0
Ace 3.5
Cot 4.5
Nyl 3.5
Poly 4.0
Acry 4.5
Wool 4.0
Fail
9. Boys (4/16) S/S Solid Polo
Knit Top
K-mart C.C. 4.0
M.F.S. 3.0
C.C.4.5
Ace 3.0
Cot 4.0
Nyl 3.5
Poly 3.5
Acry 4.0
Wool 4.0
Pass
10. 100% Cotton Y/D Flannel Dollar General C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.5
4.0
4.5
Pass
11. Stripe & Solid Bath & Wash
Cloth
Dollar General C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.5
4.5
4.5
Pass
12. Men’s Denim Shirt Dollar General C.C. 3.5 4.0 Pass
13. Rib Bath Towel Dollar General C.C. 4.0 4.5 Pass
14. 100% Polyester Polar Fleece
Both Side Brush one side Anti-
Pilling, 300 GSM
Goody’s C.C. 4.0 4.0 Pass
15. 100% Acrylic Chenille L/S
Sweater
Goody’s C.C. 4.0 4.0 Pass
16. 100% Nylon Men’s Woven
Jacket (Water Resistant)
K-mart C.C. 4.0 4.5 Pass
17. Men’ Cotton Jersey Knit Top K-mart C.C. 4.0
S.S. 4.5
4.5
4.5
Pass
18. Long Sleeve Men’s Shirt,100%
Cotton
VF Asia C.C. 4.0 4.0 Pass
19. Boys (4/16) S/S Solid Polo
Knit Top
Dillard’s C.C. 4.0
M.F.S. 3.0
C.C.4.5
Ace 3.0
Cot 4.0
Nyl 3.5
Poly 3.5
Acry 4.0
Wool 4.0
Pass
20. 100% Cotton Y/D Oxford
Fabric
AMC C.C. 4.0
MFS. 3.0
C.C.4.5
Ace 4.5
Cot 4.0
Nyl 4.0
Poly 4.5
Acry 4.5
Wool 4.5
Pass

8. Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005 57
rights. Laws are there in the papers but its implementation
is not always felt while looking at it from the micro level
right on the ground. Some of the issues which still remain
neglected are:i) Minimum basic salary, ii) Working
hours, iii) Overtime calcula-
tion, iv) Off day in a week and
v) Yearly increment.
4. Concluding remarks
Bangladesh apparel
exporters are likely to lose the
protected market in the US
and EU because of stiff com-
petition from the major play-
ers, including China, India,
Thailand and Pakistan during
the post MFA era, according to
the observers in the garments
sector in Bangladesh. Once
the quota regime passes into
history, they feared, major
buyers may not use
Bangladesh as a source coun-
try on the ground that it has a
handful of companies which
serve the global market of the
ready-made garments.
Bangladesh has already
been facing tough competition
in the US market from the
Sub-Saharan and Caribbean
countries due to USTDA-
2000 (US Trade and
Development Act-2000). A
total of 72 Sub-Saharan and
Caribbean countries have been
enjoying this controversial
advantage reducing Dhaka's
competitive edge.
Economists identified high
lead time, less productivity
comparing to other competing
nations despite relatively low
wages, poor law and order sit-
uation and infrastructure bot-
tleneck as the major
impediments for garment
industries. In the absence of
adequate number of backward
linkage industries, duration of
producing apparel take com-
paratively more time, as enter-
prises need to import raw
materials and face an unneces-
sary delay due to bureaucratic
'Red Tape', sluggishness of
customs formalities and the
loading and unloading of
ships. In order to shorten these periods, the garment manu-
facturers tend to force their workers into lengthy working
hours when a large order comes in, but this arrangement,
21. 100% Cotton Double Button
Mega Shirt [(60 X 60/ 20X20
(Sheeting)]
Brylane C.C. 4.0
M.F.S. 3.0
C.C.4.5
Ace 4.5
Cot 3.5
Nyl 3.5
Poly 4.5
Acry 4.5
Wool 4.5
Pass
22. 100% Cotton Knitted T-Shirt Lindex C.C. 4
M.FS 4
C.C.4
Ace 4
Cot 3-4
Nyl 3-4
Poly 4-5
Acry 4-5
Wool 4-5
Fail
Note : C.C. Change in colour ; S.S : Self staining; M.F.S. : Multi-fiber staining.
Table 7 : Colorfastness to Crocking
SL.
No.
Sample Description Client Required
Colour
Fastness to
Crocking
Evaluated
Colour Fastness
to Crocking
Remarks
1. Men’s Cotton Jersey
L/S Tee Knit Top
K-mart Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
4.5
3.0
Pass
2. Boot Print Patch Denim
Overall
Gymboree Dry: 3.0
Wet: 2.0
4.0
2.5
Pass
3. Boy’s Cardigan Dollar General Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3-4
4-5
3-4
Pass
4. Girls Fleece
Seat W Hood
C&A Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
4.0
3-4
Pass
5. 100% Cotton Y/D
Flannel
Dollar General Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
4.0
3.5
Pass
6. Men’s Plaid Shirt Dollar General Dry : 4.0
Wet: 3.0
4.5
3.5
Pass
7. Men’s Denim Shirt Dollar General Dry : 3.5
Wet: 2.0
4.0
3.0
Pass
8. 100% Polyester Spun
Polar Fleece Both Side
Brush one Side Anti-
Pilling
Goody’s Dry: 4.0
Wet: 3.0
4.5
4.5
Pass
9. 100% Acrylic Chenille Goody’s Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.0
4.5
4.0
Pass
10. Boy’s (4/16) S/S Solid
Polo Knit Top, 65%
Polyester 35% Cotton
K-mart Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.5
4.0
3.0
Fail
11. Toddler Girls & Girls 3
in 1 woven Coat, 100%
Polyester Brushed
Fleece
K-mart Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.0
4.5
4.5
Pass
12. Ladies Cotton Polyester
Knitted Pajama Set
K-mart Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.0
4.5
4.5
Pass
13. Boy’s Woven Cotton
Denim / Twill Baseball
Jacket with Hood
K-mart Dry : 4.0
Wet : 2.0
4.0
3.0
Pass
14. Men Woven Cotton Y/D
Flannel L/S Shirt
K-mart Dry : 3.0
Wet : 2.5
4.5
2.5
Pass
15. Ladies Cotton Twill
Woven Overall
K-mart Dry : 4.0
Wet : 2.0
4.5
4.5
Pass
16. Girl Woven Cotton
Spandex Solid corduroy
Pants
K-mart Dry : 3.0
Wet : 2.0
4.5
4.0
Pass
17. Corduroy Blazer Brylane Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.0
4.5
3.5
Pass
18. CVC Big Shirt Brylane Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.0
4.5
4.5
Pass
19. 100% Polyester Mesh
Fabric
Target Dry : 4.0
Wet : 3.0
4.0
4.0
Pass
20. 100% Cotton Mens L/S
Denim Over Shirt
Target Dry : 3.0
Wet : 1.5
4.0
3.0
Pass

9. 58 Pakistan Textile Journal July 2005
which ignores the workers' basic right, is ineffective in
both the short and long term in international business.
References
1. "Garments 'made in Bangladesh'. The social reality
behind the label", Samuel Grumiau, European
Initiatives on Monitoring and Verification of Codes of
conduct in the Garment and Sportswear industry,
Centre for research on multinational corporations,
22nd December, 2002, Page 9.
2. "A blessing for garment workers", Buyers Evaluation,
The Independent, 11th August, 2000, Page 6.
3. Backward Linkage to Ready Made Garments -
Bangladesh Perspective, Khandker Habib Ahmed,
Academic Press and Publishers Limited, Dhaka,
January 2002, Page 189.
4. "Showcause on govt, garment factories", The Daily
Star archive, 29th August, 1997.
Table 8: DimensionalStability to Washing & Torque
Desired Shrinkage
(%)
Evaluated Shrinkage (%) Desired
Torque
(After 1
Wash)
Evaluated
Torque
(After 1
Wash)
RemarksSL.
NO
Sample Description Client
1st
Wash 3rd
Wash 1st
Wash 3rd
Wash
1. 100% Cotton Canvas
Simple Capriall
Overall
Target 3/+1 3/+1 L : 2.9
W: 0.8
3.0
1.2
2% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 0.5
Pass
2. 100% Cotton Interlock
Fabric for Rugby Polo
Shirt
Target 7
+1 L
+3 W
7
+1 L
+3 W
L : 4
W : 3
5.2
3.4
5% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 2.0
Pass
3. 100% Cotton Knit
Velour Fabric For
Children wear
Target 10
+1 L
+3 W
10
+1 L
+3 W
L: 3.5
W:2.6
3.6
2.7
5% B/Wash: 0.5
A/Wash: 1.6
Pass
4. 100% Polyester
Sanded Sheeting
VF ASIA 4 4 L : 0
W : 0
0
0
½” B/Wash : 0
A/Wash : ¼”
Pass
5. 100% Cotton Jersey,
240 GSM, Enzyme
Silicon Wash)
Hudson’s
Bay
6 6 L: 0.8
W: 0.8
6. 0
11.1
/ B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 1.5
Pass
6. Tang Top , S/J Russel
Europe
7 7 L: 3.6
W: 4.9
4.5
5.7
/ B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 1.5
Pass
7. X-Mas Program,
100% Cotton
Kmart 7 7 L: 7.5
W:0.0
8.7
2.5
5% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 2.5
Fail
8. 100% Cotton Long
Pant
Target 3 3 L : 0
W: 0
2.5
2.4
5% B/Wash: 1.2
A/Wash: 2.5
Pass
9. 100% Polyester Peach
finish Twill
Hudson’s
Bay
2 2 L : 1.0
W :1.5
1.0
1.5
/ B/Wash: 1.0
A/Wash: 2.6
Pass
10. 2 Yds Fabric In True
Rose & Exp. Blue, 100
% Cotton
Wal-Mart 3 3 L: 0.4
W: 3.3
1.2
3.6
5% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 2.5
Fail
11. Long Sleeve Men’s
Shirt
VF ASIA 4 4 L : 3.7
W:1.2
5.0
0.2
½” B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash:
<1/2”
Fail
12. 100% Polyester
150/96 Filament Polar
Fleece, both Side
Brush One side Anti-
Pilling, 300 GSM
Goody’s 5 5 L : 0.6
W:0.0
2.2
1.2
2% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 0.9
Pass
13. 100% Polyester Micro
Fiber
(PF75DXPF150D)
William
Carter
3 3 L: 0.8
W: 0.6
1.2
1.2
5% B/Wash: 1.2
A/Wash: 2.5
Pass
14. 65% Polyester 35%
Cotton S/Jersey, 140
GSM
William
Carter
5 5 L: 0.8
W: 0.6
1.4
0.9
5% B/Wash: 0.8
A/Wash: 1.6
Pass
15. 100% Cotton Twill
Cargo Pant
Target 3 3 L : 0
W: 0
1.2
1.2
5% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 2.5
Pass
16. 95% Cotton 5%
Spandex Twill Ladies
Short
Target 5 5 L : 2.5
W: 1.2
2.5
0.0
5% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 2.5
Pass
17. 100% Cotton Flannel
Sleeping gown
Brylane 3 3 L: 5.0
W: 2.9
3.7
4.6
½” B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 1.2
Fail
18. 100% cotton Madras
Fabric For Men’s Shirt
Target 5 5 L: 4.1
W: 3.7
3.7
4.6
5% B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash: 0.5
Pass
19. 100% Cotton Indigo
Denim
VF Asia 4 4 L: 1.2
W: 0.0
1.2
0.6
½” B/Wash: 0.0
A/Wash:
<1/2”
Pass
+ indicates growth