1. 56 September 2014 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2014 Allured Business Media.
Achieving greater knowledge of
corrective esthetics via microdermabrasion in
today’s modern and competitive market is key to
successful client results that ultimately lead to
referrals, increased retail sales and return business.
These three R’s are and should be the focus of any
corrective skin care facility.
In order to perform safe and effective clinical skin
care treatments more confidently and competently—
while providing the highest level of care to clients—
skin care professionals need to learn how to safely
blend the modalities of chemical and mechanical
exfoliation in order to customize services for each
client’s skin goals. By putting these practices into
place, a thriving business is possible, built with loyal
clients who won’t go running to cash in on the latest
deal-of-the-day offer.
Knowing exactly how to blend modalities with
diamond-tip microdermabrasion delivers safe and
consistent results faster than using one modality. Learn
Diamond-tip
Microdermabrasion:
A Valuable Acquisition?
By Danielle Wachowski

2. 58 September 2014 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com
Microderm Q&A
Following are common questions asked by both
skin care professionals and spa clients in regard to
diamond-tip microdermabrasion.
What results can clients expect with diamond-tip
microdermabrasion?
• Smoothing and refinement of granular, rough skin
suffering from sun damage.
• Tightening of enlarged pores.
• Clearer-looking skin due to reduced congestion.
• Diminished appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,
minor acne scars and narrow stretch marks.
• Improved skin volume and tone by stimulated blood
flow, oxygenation and collagen synthesis encouraged
by continued treatments.
• Fresh-feeling skin that is smooth and oxygenated.
How does the treatment work? Diamond-tip
microdermabrasion works in two ways:
1. By gently exfoliating or removing the outside layers of
the skin, revealing a smoother, fresher complexion; and
how to provide these results based on chemistry and skin
biology, while staying within your scope of practice.
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion is safe, cost-effective
and controllable.
• Diamond tips will not interact as a chemical would
with the skin;
• Clients can see their dead skin removed after diamond
microdermabrasion, which helps encourage repeat
business;
• There is no health risk to the esthetician or client
with diamond tips, because the diamond material is
adhered to the tip and won’t come loose during the
treatment;
• Diamond-tip microdermabrasion can be used on
virtually every client, providing quick results, which is
why it’s a money-maker. You can safely use enzymes
and acids with diamond tips to get quick and safe
results; and
• Diamond tips last 50 treatments, with costs starting at
approximately $20.

3. www.SkinInc.com September 2014 © Skin Inc. 59
2. Using the vacuum to help stimulate
microcirculation, increasing the blood supply that
provides nutrients needed for skin regeneration and
repair for new collagen, thereby improving skin
texture and elasticity.
Is it painful? The short answer is no. The most
sensitive clients might experience a sensation
resembling a kitten licking their skin. After the
treatment, blood circulation and stimulation from
the vacuum can often leave the skin feeling tight, firm
and plump, with visible signs of a healthy, pink glow.
Normal activities can be resumed almost immediately
within three days of the treatment, as long as sunscreen
and a regular skin care regimen is used.
What skin issues can be addressed? Diamond-tip
microdermabrasion gradually abrades epidermal cells
to improve a vast range of skin concerns, including
sun damage; blackheads and comedones; uneven and
granular skin; superficial scars; fine lines and wrinkles;
and enlarged pores.
Is it safe? Yes; this nonchemical method eliminates
potential burns or allergies associated with other
exfoliation methods, making it a controllable, gentler
alternative to chemical peels. Microdermabrasion can
be performed on most skin types and tones, as well as
on reactive, sensitive skin. The treatment is executed
slowly and progressively, removing only the superficial
layers of the epidermis to reveal a youthful complexion
and glow. The skin care professional has total control
of how much skin is removed and should be working
under the strictest hygiene standards, using sterile
treatment tips to ensure safety.
How long does a diamond-tip
microdermabrasion service take? Each treatment
takes 20–30 minutes and, when combined with a
facial, it can take 45–60 minutes.
How many treatments will a client need?
Age and skin condition determine the number
of treatments required to achieve an optimum
effect. For most, a minimum of six treatments
is recommended. Closely spaced treatments,
combined with maintenance sessions, provide
the best results.
Can microdermabrasion be used on the body? Yes,
it can be performed on the entire body, including the
face, neck, décolleté, hands, feet, legs and back.
What about wet microdermabrasion? Although
this may feel good for clients, the results are far less
This protocol helps strengthen and promote
collagen and elastin, while increasing blood
circulation.
Cost: $79
Duration: 30 minutes
Contraindications: Do not perform this treatment
on clients with sunburns, open lesions or
autoimmune conditions.
Equipment and supplies needed:
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion machine
Cleanser
Gentle enzyme solution
Hydrating serum or mask
Oil-free SPF 30 moisturizer
Step 1: Cleanse and dry skin thoroughly.
Step 2: Apply a gentle enzyme solution for 1–2
minutes, then rinse and dry. Used before
microdermabrasion, the skin becomes
loosened and degreased. Used immediately
following microdermabrasion, enzymes polish
and smooth skin at a deeper level. Never use
a pre-peel prep solution or toner. Skin should
be clean and dry, otherwise the tip will not
abrade the skin.
Step 3: Perform one pass with a fine-tipped
diamond microdermabrasion system, based on
the manufacturer’s instructions and training.
Step 4: Apply a soothing, anti-inflammatory
hydrating serum or mask per supplier
instructions.
Step 5: Apply oil-free SPF 30 moisturizer.
Sensitive Skin
Microdermabrasion
Treatment How-to:

4. 60 September 2014 © Skin Inc. www.SkinInc.com
impressive. Much like removing calluses on feet, results
are better with a dry exfoliation.
Can solutions be infused into the skin by using
reverse vacuum? No; only electrical modalities,
such as galvanic and microcurrent, are trusted and
scientifically based to truly infuse solutions into the
stratum corneum. With this in mind, diamond-tip for
exfoliation and a microcurrent treatment for infusion
are recommended.
Can you use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) after
microdermabrasion? This is big no-no. It would not be
a good idea to apply AHAs on freshly exfoliated skin that
is now more sensitive and open. However, used before
microdermabrasion, AHAs can work hard to loosen the
desmosomes that hold dead skin cells together. Once
loosened, microdermabrasion can easily exfoliate dead
cells with fewer passes and finer grit, which is safer and
more effective.
Are You Missing out?
In order to be successful in this competitive field,
skin care professionals must understand how to educate
and motivate clients, as well as how to provide quicker
results and points of difference.
Offering 30-minute menu items based on
correction allows clients more time and money to
budget for monthly treatments. Offering diamond-tip
microdermabrasion is chemical-free, safe on most skin
types, provides quick results and has a high return-on-
investment. Clients experience an instant result, which
helps them see the service as a necessity, not a luxury.
If you don’t currently offer microdermabrasion, you
may want to track the number of times clients ask if
the service is available and multiply that number by
$75–100 to figure out how much income you may be
missing out on.
This treatment will help lighten and inhibit
hyperpigmentation of the skin.
Cost: $79
Duration: 30 minutes
Contraindications: Do not perform treatment
on clients with sunburns, open lesions or
autoimmune conditions.
Equipment and supplies needed:
Diamond-tip microdermabrasion machine
Cleanser
Lactic or glycolic acid peel
Tyrosinase-inhibiting hydrating serum
Oil-free SPF 30 moisturizer
Step 1: Cleanse and dry skin thoroughly.
Step 2: Apply a lactic or glycolic acid peel to skin,
and leave it on for two minutes. Rinse with cool
water and dry.
Step 3: Perform one pass with a fine- or
medium-tipped diamond microdermabrasion
system.
Step 4: Apply a tyrosinase-inhibiting hydrating
serum to replace lipids in skin.
Step 5: Apply an oil-free SPF 30 moisturizer.
Photodamaged
Skin with
Hyperpigmentation
Microdermabrasion
Treatment How-to:
Danielle Wachowski is an esthetician
certified in oncology esthetics, is
NCEA-certified and specializes in teaching
advanced esthetics for Skin Smooth PRO.
She has worked for several cosmeceutical companies
in education and sales, and is passionate about helping
estheticians learn the art of corrective skin care modalities
in a product-neutral way. Wachowski is a member of the
2014–2015 Skin Inc. Editorial Advisory Board.