2. Week 1/4
Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 21/1/15 Date: 21/1/15
Time: 21:22 Time: 21:40
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
- 10x climbers
Equipment: - Flat non-slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
Weather: Indoor climbing wall Weather: Indoor climbing wall
Coaches Review: Colin has agreed with the testing plan for this week ad belies that
these are her four weakest area of performance, that need significant
work if she going to improve her performance.
Coaches Review: Colin believes that working on core strength will also help with Nez’s
fear of falling which has a significant effect on her ability to improve
grade. The core is at the bases of her weakness and should help when
doing big rock over's
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
has a conscious understanding that she needs to look at what she
needs to do the moves. Looking at video evidence has given some
confidence and has a belief that her planning will improve even
further.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Has an understanding of the training, that were are going to start
Has an understanding that she has a lack of self confidence, which is
key to improving her performance.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
As this is the first week. I was going through with Nez her weaknesses
and constructing the 4 tests, that are appropriate to Nez as a climber
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
In the first week this is the start of the tests so from this point
progress will be made when looking at the two weakest areas of my
clients climbing performance. The weakest areas which I feel will aid
the rest of her performance are route planning and core strength.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
Working on overload for Nez’s next session as she has also started her
CWLA which by improving these two weaknesses significantly it will
work on other aspects of her climbing to improve overall. By
continually watching back the videos of each climb she does on own
or with the coach.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
Working o progressing Nez from this initial testing weak by putting
what she has learnt in the core strength and stability test on the wall
so that she can reach her goal of being able to climb 6b’s.
Was Contingency
Needed?
No . This is initial testing week and no alternative plan is needed from
being injured or prevention of performance.
Was Contingency
Needed?
No . This is initial testing week and no alternative plan is needed from
being injured or prevention of performance.
3. Week 2/4
Improvement Priority 1:Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 26/1/15 Date: 26/1/15
Time: 15:00 Time: 15:00
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
Equipment: - Flat non-slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
- Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall.
Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall
Coaches Review: Not a great improvement as it has only been the second week. But
Nez now has an understanding of her weaknesses and the way she
needs to improvement her weaknesses. I believe she should go to
different walls for planning unseen routes
Coaches Review: She has begun to take more risks when on the walls, de to her core
staying strong for longer and not giving out on her so quickly, due to
the fact that her daily training and review of videos is still being
carried out.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Struggles with rock over and getting up
Watching others helps quite allot – she is a visual learner
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Warming up helps- is good for fingers and lubricating muscles helps
with flexibility. Overworked can effect her fear of falling
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Small progress has been made, but further improvement needs to be
done to get her up to standard to reach her goal.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Small progress has been made on 6b grade climb, she is beginning to
get her foot over more on the big rock over. And is climbing the wall
better at the beginning.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
No not appropriate due to her work life taking over, so should be
adapted accordingly. So that her training can still be fit in.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
Through doing planking she should be able to work on the next stage
of the core strength and stability test by lifting one arm up gradually.
Was Contingency She can substitute not climbing to review previous videos with as well Was Contingency She has been working on planking on a daily basis which has helped
4. Week 3/4
Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 4/2/15 Date: 4/2/15
Time: 18:15 Time: 18:15
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
Equipment: - Flat non-slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
- Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall
Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall
Coaches Review: Her personal climbing has been affected due to working more , to
prevent her climbing practise this week for planning different routes
on unseen climbs. This can be helped by the change of routes set
this week.
Coaches Review: Her personal climbing has been affected due to working more , to
prevent her climbing practise this week. But she is looking back at
videos and analysing performance. She is still able to plank on a daily
basis even through her time on the wall has lacked.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Working in a different environment – big rock Milton Keynes
Route planning improved and a change of scenery helped this was
breaking the climb down further.
Wants to be able to identify the specific moves- shapes on the wall.
Wall looking at the difficulties when on the wall. Using video analysis
more
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Warmed up – platoued then performance decreased. The goal setting
that she had too do a 6b helped with performance. Confidence . Due
to the fear she got tired and gave up – overloaded.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress is very minor this week due to the increased number of
working hours at the centre. Although she has still been able to watch
others climb routes ,to show her alternative ways of completing
climbs .
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress is very minor this week due to the increased number of
working hours at the centre. Has been planking daily to ensure that
improvements have been made when holding planking position.
Are the Next
Session Overload
The next session is based on progression from this week as she has
not been able to do much climbing. So next weeks plans depend on
Are the Next
Session Overload
The next session is progression due to this weeks lack of training. I
will go over the green 6b climb on panel 15 to see the improvement
5. Week 4/4
Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 15/2/15 Date: 15/2/15
Time: 13:12 Time: 14:02
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
Equipment: - Flat non-slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
- Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera (phone)
-Stopwatch
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall.
Coaches Review: Believes that there has been a minor improvement Coaches Review: She is beginning to do bigger rock over’s which is a big improvement
from the initial testing in week 1 but still cannot reach her goal of the
green 6b on panel 15.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I feel I have improved after doing some outdoor climbing at the
weekend. Am I on track to complete my aim? Is my work life taking
over my training and climbing practice.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I feel as though my confidence has boosted and I climbed outside for
the first time last weekend, but did not push my self hard enough. I
feel that I am working towards my man going, I am queering if I will
be able to obtain my goal in only 8 weeks.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Small progress has been made, but further improvement needs to be
done to get her up to standard to reach her goal.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress has been made slightly as I am leading more due to my core
strength being stronger so I am able to maintain climbing for longer
periods of time doing more climbs in a time frame, but still not at the
level I want to be.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
I think that Nez should work more on the wall to gain some more
video evidence, there has been a new route set at the climbing wall.
This will help with the route planning as there are new climbs to
explore.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
I think that Nez should work more on the wall to gain some more
video evidence, there has been a new route set at the climbing wall.
This will help with the core strength as there are new climbs to
explore and practise rock over's even on juggy holds that I can skip
6. Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 1/2
Trait: Route planning
Test Name: Climbing time trials
Standardised Test: No Normative Data: Yes
If Not A
Standardised Test
Detail Method
Here:
• The athlete picks a wall that is of a 6a or above grade (elite performance level)
that they have never done before.
• The athlete then climbs up the wall in the quickest time that they can on a top
rope, there is no time limit but should be fast as it is a speed test.
• This is repeated by 5-10 other climbers of the same performance level.
• The time s are recorded and put in order from fastest to slowest AOAC In
Shoreham, doing panel 7 yellow 6a
• For this trial I used AOAC in Shoreham as the location of my testing, the climb
we chose was to do the time trials was the yellow 6a on panel 7.
Test Result 1: 1 min 35 seconds Test Result 1 Rating: 2nd
Test Result 2: 1 min 47 seconds Test Result 2 Rating: 3rd
Test Result 3: 1 min 34.16 seconds Test Result 3 Rating: 1st
Best Result: 1 min 34.16 seconds
Best Result Rating: Out of the 10 participants who were re tested, Nez came 6th. This shows an
improvement as she came 8th in the initial testing as has now moved up two
places
7. Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 2/2
Trait: Core strength
Test Name: Core muscle strength and stability test
Standardised
Test:
Yes Normative Data: No
If Not A
Standardised
Test Detail
Method Here:
• http://www.brianmac.co.uk/coretest.htm
Test Result 1: 42.7 seconds Test Result 1 Rating: 2nd
Test Result 2: 45.1 seconds Test Result 2 Rating: 1st
Test Result 3: 36.2 seconds Test Result 3 Rating: 3rd
Best Result: 45.1 seconds
Best Result
Rating:
1st
8. Describe whether the tests show that
progress is being made as planned?
• Progression has been made, through having a weakened
sense of fear from climbing more. But there is still long way
to go, to reach her goal and be able to get out of this
plateoued phase, so that she can become a 6b climber. I
think that the next weeks will be spent working on specific
moves and sequencing of climbing. This can be done by
looking back over her videos and seeing the specific points
of weakness. Her coach can also help her with this, when
climbing at other climbing centres and gradually reaching
small steps before she is able to achieve her goal. I believe
the training we are doing currently is helping but further
training should be put in place. I am concerned on the
recent injury that has developed at her knee that could
prevent further training.
9. Does the mid point review show that weeks 5-8
need to be adapted?
Describe How you will adapt your sessions?
There has been a small improvement in Nez’s performance which is to be
expected, due to the high goal that is set for her performance. I believe
the daily planking is helping her core strength, which is good as well as the
lead training. But in weeks 5- 8 there should be further work on the rock
over's, so that she can builds this up to reaching her goal. I also think that
route planning can be improved by changing the scenery and working on
other walls, which she has done in weeks 4 when going to white spider
and Withdean to climb, this has made Nez look at her performance
differently and can relate the practise she did at the two different centres
due to her having a confidence boost from climbing elsewhere. She can
then apply what she learnt to AOAC, as the climbs are harder then most
centres. I will adapt some of the progression plans to overload, because of
the high goal she needs to work intensely on both aspects of weakness to
reach this. I also need to adapt her plan from her work life as this seems to
be taking over recently, I need to make sure I work around this, through
looking back at her videos and making strategies for improvement to
compensate for the lack of climbing she will be doing.
