2. Week 5/8
Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 19/2/15 Date: 19/2/15
Time: 13:00 Time: 14:20
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Equipment: -Flat non slip surface - Belayer and belay device
-Stopwatch - Harness
- Assistant - Chalk
- Pad and paper - Video camera
- Climbing wall - Stopwatch
- Rope
Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall
Weather: Indoor climbing centre the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing I this wall
Coaches Review: Has been climbing outdoors recently, through my help and taking
videos of other climbers doing the same moves I want Nez to be able
to do. I believe her outdoor climbing has improved, with concerns to
route planning. This has to be simulated when in an indoor
environment. I believe the use of video evidence she has gathered
and Anna when Nez had the injury has helped her in not letting her
performance drop to significantly.
Coaches Review: She has completed further outdoor climbing, doing big rock overs
confidentially when in Portland, but is unable to do the same in an
indoor environment at the same level. Her injury is very recent and I
do not expect her to be back to normal, I believe it will take a few
weeks of consistent training to reach the same level. The daily
planking has seemed to help and putting her situations were there is
going to be falls is also helping her core improve.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I feel that trough videoing others performing doing specific climbs at
the level I want to achieve and the panel 15 green has helped me
when comparing it to my own performance. Through the help of Colin
he has showed me what I need to do to improve, and how this will
help my overall climbing. After having an injury I feel that looking at
others climb has really motivated my recovery, and I hope to reach
my goal. Outdoor season has began and this is my strength I will be
able to apply this knowledge to indoor.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Improving after my injury, Colin has got me doing some vigorous
training to help my performance get back to the same level of
performance and then improve further from that . When outside I
have managed to apply myself to doing climbs that consist of having a
strong core when holding onto small holds.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
I feel that going outside has helped Nez, when reprofiling/ testing I
have found a small improvement in her time trial score and has
decreased by 25 seconds which is very good for Nez. I feel that there
is still some improvement to be made but this is as expected after a
minor injury.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Some progress has been made, as fear is starting to decrease due to
having a tighter core, her determination has increased after initial
week of testing where she was giving up the rock over after only two
trials. Some improvement is still needed to reach to the next hold but
if we maintain training this will be able to happen in the next few
weeks.
Are the Next I think that the overload and progression plans are appropriate and Are the Next Continue with daily planking try to hold for at least 1 minute twice a
3. Week 6/8
Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 23/2/15` Date: 23/2/15
Time: 18:15 Time: 19:00
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Equipment: Flat non slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
- Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing in this wall.
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing in this wall.
Coaches Review: Further progress has been made, as she has been leading more this
week getting back into this type of climbing, after her minor injury. I
feel that by planning easier routes to do, when leading will help her
to achieve her CWLA as this will be the stepping stones to harder
climbs when she is fully back to normal.
Coaches Review: She has been doing her planking twice a day currently, along with the
wall squat test that has been pushing Nez to her full. I feel that she
can do further strength training when on the wall when going for the
small holds on overhangs. I believe that this is well within her
capability's but her fear holds her back from attempting these climbs.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I think that I can progress from this to do further lead climbing cleanly
at a 5+ 6a level, if I continue at the pace I am currently. I must be
weary not to over do it as this may cause re-injury and prevent me
from progressing further. But overall I believe I am doing well and on
track to reaching my goal.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
Colin ha got me doing dome intense training lately ready for my
CWLA, I want to be able to do big rock over's as well as 6a lead climbs.
I feel that this improvement in my core strength has really helped me
when doing bigger moves and if I continue on this track my overall
grade will improve. I am so happy with my improvement so far.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress has been made she has been attempting the green 6b on
panel 15, has done it with assistance but now needs to do it cleanly.
Her time trial score is also improving as she is getting quicker at
climbs, through practise and careful planning.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress has been made as I am leading more, due to my confidence
being improved, I would also like to improve her core further as I
believe she has still not reached her potential.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
The next session is progression, for me to go over with Nez were in
the videos there is something other climbers are doing better, then
her own performance (related to video). From this we will then
practise the specific moves. So that her overall performance does
improve.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
Progression, I can use the video evidence to show Nez the exact point
were she gives up and how to overcome this. I want her to be
practising big rock over's it doesn't matter if they are not clean but to
be at least attempt them with the help of Colin, is key at this stage of
training programme.
5. Although Nez feel’s she ca still
climb at a 4-5+ level I and Colin
feel that she should take a
break and recover before
returning back to climbing. As
it can cause further damage to
the knee then good.
In between wks 6-7 Nez was practising with
Colin on a climb with a couple of small rock
over's, Colin was trying to encourage her to
do it when her knee went pop. I feel that this
has affected the rest of her training and the
last two weeks of practice, will be unlikely if
she continues and retests, so that Nez could
reach her aim. This is unfortunate but she
can still work with the contingency's making
videos of performers comparing this to her
climbing. So that when she has made a
recovery her performance doesn't suffer too
much.
6. Week 7/8
Improvement Priority 1: Route planning Improvement Priority 2: Core strength
Date: 6/3/15 Date: 6/3/15
Time: 10:35 Time: 11:10
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Equipment: Flat non slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
- Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing in this wall.
Weather: Indoor climbing centre ,the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing in this wall.
Coaches Review: Due to Nez's injury reoccurring badly this has put her out of practice,
and has affected her performance. Her recent improvement and goal
may take her longer to achieve. Due to this injury. As soon as she has
recovered, training will restart
Coaches Review: Due to her knee injury, this has weakened her performance and
prevents her from planking. I believe that stopping training whilst
she has this injury is needed, after recovery she will start training
again progressively so she can reach her goal.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
My injury has prevented from training, although I have been able to
watch others perform and video them so that when I go back to
training I can re-watch these videos to help me get back to the same
level of climbing.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I feel very overworked and have been practising allot recently, my
work life seems to be very busy and have had no time to practise. My
knee has also prevented my daily training and it will be a few weeks
before I get back to training at the same level after I recover.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
progress has gone down hill, due to injury witch has prevented her
form doing the 6b on panel 15. although she is still collecting video
evidence and working with Colin to identify strengths and
weaknesses.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress has gone down hill, due to her having an injury. This has
postponed training until she has made a full recovery.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
The next session plans will not apply as she has postponed training
for a few weeks whilst she recovers from injury. It is a shame to see
Nez not finish the eight weeks to prove how well the training has
benefitted her performance and to show that she could know do the
6b on panel 15. but I believe once she has recovered and continues
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
If No Describe:
The next session plans will not apply as she has postponed training
for a few weeks whilst she recovers from injury. It is a shame to see
Nez not finish the eight weeks to prove how well the training has
benefitted her performance and to show that she could know do the
6b on panel 15. but I believe once she has recovered and continues
7. Week 8/8
Improvement Priority 1: Improvement Priority 2:
Date: 18/3/15 Date: 18/3/15
Time: 7:00 Time: 7:35
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Venue: Adur Outdoor Activities Centre
Brighton rd
Shoreham-by-sea
West Sussex
BN435LT
Equipment: - Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Climbing shoes
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Equipment: Flat non slip surface
- Stopwatch
- Assistant
- Pad and paper
- Climbing wall
- Rope
- Belayer and belay device
- Harness
- Chalk
- Video camera
- Stopwatch
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing in this wall.
Weather: Indoor climbing centre, the weather does not affect the participation
of climbing in this wall.
Coaches Review: Being out of action this week and the last has really affected Nez she
is so eager to get back to training. I feel she needs a few more weeks
to fully recover before she attempts anything above a 5+ grade.
Coaches Review: Currently her daily planking and wall squats have stopped, due to
injury. I feel that she will continue with training after she has
recovered.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I am so annoyed that I am not able to train this week. I am so eager to
get back to training. My injury has prevented from training, although I
have been able to watch others perform and video them so that
when I go back to training I can re-watch these videos to help me get
back to the same level of climbing.
Athlete Feedback /
Questions:
I am disappointed that I have not been training this week. I feel very
overworked and have been practising allot recently, my work life
seems to be very busy and have had no time to practise. My knee has
also prevented my daily training and it will be a few weeks before I
get back to training at the same level after I recover.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
progress has gone down hill, due to injury witch has prevented her
form doing the 6b on panel 15. although she is still collecting video
evidence and working with Colin to identify strengths and
weaknesses.
Is Progress As
Expected?
If No Describe:
Progress has gone down hill, due to her having an injury. This has
postponed training until she has made a full recovery.
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
The next session plans will not apply as she has postponed training
for a few weeks whilst she recovers from injury. It is a shame to see
Nez not finish the eight weeks to prove how well the training has
benefitted her performance and to show that she could know do the
Are the Next
Session Overload
and Progression
Plans Appropriate?
The next session plans will not apply as she has postponed training for
a few weeks whilst she recovers from injury. It is a shame to see Nez
not finish the eight weeks to prove how well the training has
benefitted her performance and to show that she could know do the
8. Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 1/2
Trait: Route planning
Test Name: Climbing time trials
Standardised
Test:
No Normative Data: No
If Not A
Standardised
Test Detail
Method Here:
• The athlete picks a wall that is of a 6a or above grade (elite
performance level) that they have never done before.
• The athlete then climbs up the wall in the quickest time that they
can on a top rope, there is no time limit but should be fast as it is
a speed test.
• This is repeated by 5-10 other climbers of the same performance
level.
• The time s are recorded and put in order from fastest to slowest
AOAC In Shoreham, doing panel 7 yellow 6a
• For this trial I used AOAC in Shoreham, the climb we chose was
to do the time trials was the yellow 6a on panel 7.
Test Result 1: 1 minute 31.24
seconds
Test Result 1 Rating: 3rd
Test Result 2: 0 minutes 59.35
seconds
Test Result 2 Rating: 1st
Test Result 3: 1 min 12.4 seconds Test Result 3 Rating: 2nd
Best Result: 59.35 seconds
9. Week 4 Review Testing Excellence Trait – Weakness 2/2
Trait: Core strength
Test Name: Core muscle strength and stability test
Standardised
Test:
Yes Normative Data: No
If Not A
Standardised
Test Detail
Method Here:
• http://www.brianmac.co.uk/coretest.htm
Test Result 1: 51.6 Test Result 1 Rating: 1st
Test Result 2: 47.3 Test Result 2 Rating: 3rd
Test Result 3: 48.5 Test Result 3 Rating: 2nd
Best Result: 51.6 seconds
Best result
rating:
1st
