Mallams Auctioneers look at a brief history of jewellery from around the world.

1. THE HISTORY OF
JEWELLERY
By Mallams Auctioneers
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2.  The earliest known pieces of jewellery
are two small marine shells that were
pierced to form a necklace or pendant
 The discovery of metallurgy and the
increased knowledge jewellery making
skills led to the formation of different
styles of jewellery in Egypt and
Mesopotamia
 When gold arrived thousands of years
later it brought with it an even greater
variation on design
ANCIENT
WORLD
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3.  During the Middle Ages Christian
monasteries were responsible for the
production of the majority of jewellery
 During the Medieval period, jewellery
symbolized your social status and
society became intensely hierarchal
 Copper or Pewter represented the lower
ranks whereas the wealthier society
wore gold, silver and precious
gemstones
MEDIEVAL
JEWELLERY
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4.  This period was known for the rapid expansion
of knowledge, technology, arts and science
 The jewellery represented this magnificence
and enamel became more colorful and vibrant
 Glitter also became more common in
gemstones due to advancements in cutting
techniques
 The jewellery was influenced by a rediscovery
in the classical world with mythological
scenes becoming a common theme
RENAISSANCE
JEWELLERY
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5.  There were two significant changes in
jewellery during this era:
 Improved cutting of gemstones
 Flowers became more popular and led to the
adoption of floral motifs
 Ornamental designs such as ribbons, knots
and rococo scrolls became more familiar
 These designs were created in gold jewellery,
with coloured enamel and later diamonds
being incorporated into the patterns
17TH
CENTURY
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6.  Large imports of Brazilian diamonds were
imported into Europe during this era
 Many jewellery designs were created to
showcase these precious diamonds
 Designs became lighter to make the
gemstones appear to be floating seamlessly
with the metal hidden as much as possible
 Few diamond jewellery pieces survived this
period as many owners exchanged their
diamonds for the next current trend
18TH
CENTURY
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7.  With the industrial revolution the status of
jewellery changed, enabling middle classes to
purchase at a reasonable price
 Imitation stones were used and a gold-plating
technique was developed with metal alloy
which was used in place of gold and silver
 Inspiration for jewellery designs came from
Greece and Rome
 Interest in the trend botany became more
popular and led to the adoption of naturalistic
motifs
 Elaborate jewellery was worn almost
exclusively by women
19TH
CENTURY
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8.  William Morris founded the Arts and Crafts
movement in the 19th century
 It focused on the execution of beautiful
designs by skilled artisans over the over-
mechanized systems brought forward during
the industrial revolution
 Stones were selected for their appearance
and colour rather than monetary value
 Curved and figurative pieces became popular
and these styles often had a symbolic
meaning
ARTS &
CRAFTS
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9.  This style symbolized a reaction to the
imitation of classical jewellery
 These jewelers distanced themselves from
floral motifs and precious stones using
symbolic and decorative motifs instead
 Materials were not judged on their monetary
value, instead their ability render a design or
carry out a desired effect
 This radical departure in jewellery design
wasn’t fully embraced
ART
NOUVEAU
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10.  This period began in 1920 and continued until
1950 and still appears to the present day
 This style gained inspiration from other
modernist styles for that period such as
Bauhaus, Cubism and Futurism
 Art Deco is easily recognisable with bold,
contrasting colours and clean lines.
 Gemstones were also mixed with black onyx
for a striking effect
ART DECO
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11.  New technologies were adopted and
non-precious materials such as
paper, plastics and textiles were
incorporated into the designs
 Artists continue to push the
boundaries of jewellery and many
pieces are still viewed as wearable
art
MODERN
JEWELLERY
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12. If you are interested in the history and heritage of jewellery and
art, visit one of our auctions!
Our auction calendars are available to view here
For more information:
Call: 01865 241 358
Visit: www.mallams.co.uk
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