1. AUSTRALIAN PERIOD STYLE | 183
FEATURE | ANTIQUE JEWELLERY
182 | AUSTRALIAN PERIOD STYLE
WORDS KATHRYN WYATT, BSC FGAA DIPDT, FELLOW
OF THE GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION
OF AUSTRALIA, DIPLOMA OF DIAMOND
TECHNOLOGY, REGISTERED JEWELLERY VALUER 242
T
he style we now call Art Deco
was not known by that name until
the term was coined in the 1960s.
This sleek style of the 1920s and
1930s was called the Art Moderne or the Jazz
style in its day. Its gestation period included
the watershed event World War I (1914-1918).
Prior to this war, elegance, grandeur and
luxury characterised the Edwardian period
and was made manifest by the style and
character of King Edward VII. World War
I destroyed all of that and the survivors
of the horrors of the war were ready to
“live and forget the past”. Pre-war fashion,
traditions and values were cast aside. Women
were asked to take on male roles during
the war; after the war they left behind their
constricting corsets and traditions. They
were emancipated; their hair cut short, hem
lengths shortened and they wore trousers.
This was part of a wider liberation of
society led by artists, jewellers, sculptors
and architects. Everyday items took on
the new design. They were decorated to
look attractive and fashionable, bright
and bold. It was a reaction against Art
Nouveau and its naturalistic organic fluidity
of the curve, muted colours and use of
organic components. Art Deco embraced
new and contrasting materials, straight
clean lines and angles and even abstract
patterns. Synthetics and plastics were
incorporated, as they were new and novel.
Jewellery was made in various categories,
from exquisite luxury by the likes of
Cartier and Boucheron, to obviously fake
costume jewels. Clothes were designed
with accessories and jewellery to match.
Coco Chanel was a prominent clothes
designer who extended her range into
costume jewellery. It was no longer enough
just to wear fabulous jewels, they had to
complement the clothes.
The style was a confluence of a
multitude of influences from around
the world. The Russian ballet (Ballet
Russe) was the toast of Europe with its
magnificent sets and colourful costumes.
Other influences included cubism from the
art world and exotic art from Asian, Islam,
India and Africa.
Patterns of plant leaves, flowers and
arabesques of Islamic influence appeared.
The linear and geometric forms of this art
conformed well to the Art Deco movement.
Jaipur enamel jewellery was the inspiration
of ruby and emerald pieces of the late
1920s. The Sarpech (traditional Indian
turban ornament) became a motif for pins
and brooches. Tasselled turban ornaments
were transferred from traditional Indian
costumes, to necklaces, sautoirs and beads.
Josephine Baker (the outrageous African-
American dancer) infused Paris in 1925 with
her rhythms and traditions of black Africa,
became popular. Consequently, African
motifs in jewellery began to appear. Bangles
carved in ivory, wood and non-precious
metals were made.
As with fashions throughout history, major
events and people influenced the style of the
day. In 1922, Lord Carnarvon and Howard
Carter opened the tomb of Tutankhamun.
Demystifying the style
of Art Deco
Dazzling
DECO DESIGNS
This most important discovery soon inspired
many designs. Pyramids, sphinxes, obelisks,
lotus flowers, scarabs and hieroglyphics
all became motifs used during this time.
Nearly all these motifs can be seen in the
very colourful wide-line bracelets of the day
emulating hieroglyphics seen on the walls of
the tombs.
Also very popular was the “all-white effect”.
Created by using all diamonds and platinum,
this was a stark contrast to the colourful bold
jewels of Indian and African influence.
New cutting technology became available,
allowing new cuts for gemstones and
especially diamonds to develop. The main
new cuts were triangles, trapeze, half moons,
baguettes, oblongs, shields and emerald
cuts. If stones could not be cut to fit a shape,
stones would be inserted into a bezel of the
appropriate shape to give the illusion of
a particular shape.
The use of cabochon was popular,
providing contrast in textures and shape
against faceted stones. Hard stones were
carved into geometric shapes to become
central motifs of brooches, pendants and
bracelets. Many gemstones became popular
to use due to their colour. Lapidaries
experimented with many hard stones used
throughout history such as onyx, rock crystal,
jade, lapis lazuli, malachite, turquoise, amber,
chrysoprase, dyed chalcedony and more.
Even coral could be mixed with less valuable
lacquer enamel and pastes. Stark black and
white was favoured and can be seen in many
black onyx and diamond rings.
MAJOR FASHION ITEMS
Wristwatches had been an invention for pilots
of World War I; now they were jewel set for
women. The cocktail ring came into being.
Slave bangles, with a handkerchief tucked
into the bangle, were worn on the upper
arm. Long articulated earrings emphasised
very short hairstyles. The Jabot pin was
designed to show the fabric in between
decorated ends. Dress clips in sets of two
were popular in diamond and platinum
and could be joined together, to be worn
as a brooch. Long strands of Japanese
cultured pearls became more affordable for
the middle classes and were worn down
the front; backless dresses called for them
to be worn down the naked back. There
were numerous variations of diamond and
gemstone bracelets, often with just accents of
a contrasting colour added. Now that women
would apply make up in public, enamelled
mirror and powder compacts and myriad
other accessories became popular.
Fashion readily accepted the obvious
and unashamedly fake. It was the design of
the object and not the materials that were
important. It was the beginning of the brand,
where the designer’s name was important.
You could now have faux pearls because they
were designed by Coco Chanel.
During the period now known as Art Deco,
Australia was in a depression. With little
money to spare for luxury, there was not a
lot of Art Deco jewellery made here. Most
of what you see today is either imported,
reproduction or fake.
Enter World War II and again the world
changed overnight. Jewellery disappeared
as precious metals, platinum and palladium
were needed to make armaments; their use
for jewellery was outlawed in many countries
including Australia. APS
IMOGENE ANTIQUE &
CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY
Located at Roy’s Antiques
410 Queens Parade, Clifton Hill Vic 3068
Mobile: 0412 195 964
Email: kate@imogene.com.au
Website: www.imogene.com.au
Member of the:
Gemmological Association of Australia
Website: www.gem.org.au
National Council of Jewellery Valuers
Website: www.ncjv.com.au
Affiliate Member of the Gold and Silversmiths Guild
of Australia
Website: www.gsga.org.au
Australian Antique & Arts Dealers Association
of Australia
Website: www.aaada.org.au
Victorian Antique Dealers Guild
Website: www.vadg.com.au
Jewellers Association of Australia
Website: www.jaa.com.au
FEATURE | ANTIQUE JEWELLERY
Art Deco platinum diamond plaque brooch.
Art Deco platinum and diamond ring of the 1930s.
Art Deco platinum diamond line bracelets,
top one has emerald accents.
A platinum diamond and
Akoya pearl Art Deco
diamond ring.
An 18ct white gold and diamond ring
made recently in the style of Art Deco.
Art Deco-style earrings
made from 18ct white
gold, set with coral, onyx
and diamonds.