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RAW Magazine Fall/Winter 2012 Highlights Fashion and Visual Arts
1. RW
A
04
Fal l/Winter
2012
MAGAZINE
Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
2.
3. The
RAW Magazine
Joyce Yung
TEAM Derek Ting
Joyce founded Random Art Workshop in 2009 to expand Co-founder of Random Art Workshop, Derek has always
upon her passion for photography, art and to build a com- been an ardent supporter of the arts. He caught the acting
munity of like-minded individuals that can come together bug while studying in New York and subsequently, his in-
to share their creative insights. The past several years has terests have led him into the art of acting and further pro-
seen her involve her career in professional photography ducing for CNN and other well received short-films. With
and championing everyday arts. With an affinity for dis- a Producer’s role for a feature film under his belt, Derek
covering new avenues to continues to tirelessly pur-
give the rest of Hong Kong sue his passions. He enjoys
their dose of the unexpect- quick witted conversations
ed and imaginative, RAW and running. He hopes
Magazine is her brain- RAW will help others find
child. She finds inspira- their callings.
tion in traveling, loves the
water, and is particularly
fond of all things spiral.
Beverly Cheng Matina Cheung
Art has always played Matina is RAW’s resident
big a role in Beverly’s life design and graphics wiz-
(ever since grade school ard. Responsible for RAW
when she discovered that Magazine’s innovative and
art making could get her distinct aesthetic identity,
out of team sports). After she celebrates her passion
a bachelor’s in art history, for design along with art
she was an editor for vari- mediums such as photog-
ous lifestyle magazines raphy and sculpture. An
before breaking out as a freelance editor and writer and up and coming visual artist, Matina’s art examines the con-
spearheading various creative projects—from PR cam- cept of intimacy and perception. She is also a yoga afficcio-
paigns for new restaurants to collaborating on cookbooks. nado with an intense love for aliens and gremlins.
Contributing Writers:
Leanne Mirandilla Renee Wong Greenwood
Writer and editor by trade, Leanne is a Hong Kong native “Renee Wong Greenwood is a Hong Kong-based freelance
and arts and culture enthusiast. She enjoys reading, drink- writer who loves everything that this exciting city has to
ing coffee and finding new and interesting things to do in offer—the energetic vibe, the crazy pace, the juxtaposition
the city. Follow her on Twitter at @lemirandilla. of the old and new, the East and the West—and writing all
about it.”
Claire Johnson
Claire is a professional dancer and teacher as well as a keen
writer. She enjoys all aspects relating to the arts and is also
a fashion blogger for AnyWearStyle.com.
3
4. Foreword
My partner, Derek, and I started the concept of Random Art
Workshop when we got past the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong
and past its hard outer shell. Many people come here to make
their money and leave, but we see things a little differently and
feel that Hong Kong deserves more permanence, especially in
the field of art. We also felt that being an accountant, lawyer, and
banker does not preclude you from being an artist, nor make
you any less creative. We started RAW to plant a seed that would
grow into a community where people could learn about art and
an outlet for their creativity, without the confines or limits that
society places on us. RAW Magazine is a natural progression of
this emerging community.
In our Fall/Winter 2012 issue, we spotlight artists use fashion as
a creative outlet, whether it’s wearable artist Movanna Chan or
fashion photography Sean Lee Davies. We are greatly influenced
by the fashion around us. Fashion is so much more than the big
brands around us and there are plenty of up and coming, home
grown designers that are showing off their wares. In this issue,
you’ll find we look at designers who have created brands that are
unique and true to their own style and artistic vision and pho-
tographers who are able to interpret and capture the essence of
various style through their camera lens.
Creative Director
RANDOM ART WORKSHOP
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5
6. TANG
KWoK HIN
multimedia artist
His most recent series of works—exhibited at ART HK 2012 and
again at Amelia Johnson Contemporary this past September—
is a collection of 18 collages and two videos centered around
Nancy, the fictitious younger sister that Tang never knew. “My
mother terminated a pregnancy over twenty years ago because of
the one-child policy introduced by the Chinese government in
the late 1970s,” explains Tang in his artist’s statement. “I imagine
that [she] left to study overseas and [has] yet to return. [She was]
born with a quiet nature and [has] become slightly eccentric.”
He combined images hearkening to what the media commonly
presents as the “ideal family” with images iconic to Hong Kong,
as well as images found via Google. “I keep using Google as a
tool to do collage,” Tang comments. “When I type different key-
words into Google Search, we normally see the same image in
the same region. This is a standardized mode to frame everyone.”
Tang commonly appropriates and re-contextualizes images in his
collages, giving them a new perspective and meaning.
Some of Tang’s other past projects include making landscapes
out of wine labels and a fictional “Google Worldview” composed
of found online images. Besides his artistic work, Tang also cu-
rates and writes. “To me, curating a show, writing, and making
Local artist Tang Kwok-hin—who walked away with the first art are quite similar in some ways,” he says. “I prefer grouping all
prize at the Hong Kong Contemporary Art Biennial Awards in these as a whole [as] creation in life. They are same to me and it’s
2009—often appropriates images from print and digital media in complicated to split them off.”
order to create his collages.
Tang explains that, like most artists, he needs to balance the com-
Tang Kwok-hin remembers drawing on the walls at home from mercial and the experimental in his works. “I regard myself as a
when he was age 3; his career as an artist kicked off when he watermelon that needs to be cut into pieces. I need a commercial
completed his bachelor’s and master’s degrees in fine arts at the side to sustain myself as a full-time artist. Another part is thor-
SPOTLIGHT
Chinese University of Hong Kong in 2008. Since then, he has oughly done for experiments or pure fine arts.”
worked extensively with Amelia Johnson Contemporary and has
shown his work at Art HK 2011 and 2012, taking over the Man-
darin Oriental’s elegant Clipper Lounge with his mixed-media www.tangkwokhin.blogspot.com
artwork in 2012. “I have never thought of doing any other thing
except being an artist,” Tang says. “Perhaps I find a personal way
to lead a different life in that.”
Written by Leanne Mirandilla
6
10. CARRIE
CHAN
fashion designer
prints and ever popular tattoo tights are often seen on bloggers
and in style magazines. “I’m inspired by a mixture of tradition-
al art forms in both Western and Oriental culture. At the same
time, I’m a total pop culture junkie. I create an old meets new,
East meets West clash [in my work].”
With a keen eye for prints and illustrations, it’s here Carrie’s work
really stands out. She starts by creating collages to scope out her
idea, before transferring these onto a mannequin to see how the
lines and shapes work with the human body. Further fine tuning
is needed after the initial draping; refining the pattern, experi-
mentation with colour and proportioning before finally reaching
the production stage.
Carrie isn’t averse to obstacles as a young designer and is focus-
ing on carving a niche in the retail market. She hopes that more
trendsetters will start developing a desire for her products and
she remains constantly looking to create and evolve her designs
ahead of her competitors. Her new range of legwear is an exam-
ple of just that—by taking the already popular graphic print leg-
gings and combining them with origami print and darker lines,
the tights are designed to shape the wearer’s legs and make them
After graduating in journalism, Carrie went on to work at the appear slimmer.
South China Morning Post while studying and joining Fashion’s
Collective. It was there that she began to realise her passion and When looking forward to the future, Carrie has clear aspirations,
would even go on to win awards at Hong Kong Fashion Week. “I would like to take the label to a trade show in Paris and in turn,
A subsequent scholarship to the University of Westminster to develop a larger international audience.” Also in the pipeline is a
study a master’s in fashion design paved the way to Carrie’s ca- potential collaboration with a handbag designer, which will com-
reer change. bine Carrie’s unique fabric prints with leather in order to create
one-of-a-kind accessories.
It was in the UK that Carrie really began to explore different tex-
SPOTLIGHT
tile techniques, working in Alexander McQueen’s print section
before moving on to assist British designer Boudicca for almost RI by Carrie legwear is available at Heaven Please, 2B, Po Foo
two years. Following her relocation back to Hong Kong, Carrie Building, No.1 Foo Ming St., Causeway Bay; RI by Carrie clothing
is available at Amelie Street, Flat M, 1/F, Po Ming Building, 2-6 Foo
began to focus on her own label and develop her first range of
Ming St., Causeway Bay
signature legwear.
www.ribycarrie.wix.com/ri
Carrie’s designs involve unique fabrics created in-house incorpo-
rating distinctive patterns and techniques. Her signature origami
Written by Claire Johnson
14. CONNIE
LO
jewellery designer
Jewellery design followed, although it was a completely self-
taught, it came easily to Connie because of her foundation as a
fashion designer. “I was never particularly good at the drawing
part; it’s the concept and realisation of a product that really ex-
cites me. The endless possibilities and seeing each piece develop
from start to finish is what I really enjoy about jewellery produc-
tion.”
The pieces at Nutcase do make a statement, with bold, eye-catch-
ing styles that combine both the profane and beautiful. Each
season Connie devises her collection around a ‘muse character’,
such as her previous sea-themed collection which was inspired
by a mermaid. Her current season is inspired by two witch sis-
ters.
Connie is, however, acutely aware of her lack of training in and
the potential setbacks this could cause her. “Sometimes my lack
of experience makes it difficult to realise my ideas to their full-
est potential, [it’s] definitely a hurdle I need to jump over to take
Nutcase to the next level.” That said, Connie is very in touch
when it comes to the jewellery industry. She focused on fine
A self-confessed accessories addict, Connie Lo is paving the way tuning her designs for three years before starting her label. She
in bold and brave jewellery design with her own label <Nutcase>. clearly sees the importance of good marketing and an efficient
sales platform for her design—sometimes, simply having beau-
The term ‘nutcase’ means crazy, and this has become the under- tiful designs is just not enough. To assure quality, every piece
lying theme and philosophy of the label’s pieces, from the neon of handmade jewellery passing Connie’s close inspection before
spike earrings to its metal and gem bedazzled necklaces. In a city reaching the customer.
like Hong Kong where we are all driven a little ‘crazy’, these ac-
cessories provide an outlet to stand out from the crowd with this Nutcase’s customer base spans quite an interesting demographic,
bold jewelry collection. covering both male and female with online sales across much of
Europe, Asia and the U.S. Connie doesn’t have a set target cus-
SPOTLIGHT
Connie’s inspiration to work in the fashion industry came at an tomer, but just wants people to have fun with her jewellery. “I
early age. After moving to the UK at the age of 10, her eyes were challenge everyone, particularly the understated Hong Kongers
opened to a more creative, expressive fashion style. “Even as a to go ahead and stand out—why not?”
nerdy teenager, it fascinated me how something as silent as cloth-
ing could make such a huge impact on others, be it in first im- Nutcase is available at Amelie Street, Flat M, 1/F, Po Ming Building,
pressions or as a tool to communicate,” she says. Connie went on 2-6 Foo Ming St., Causeway Bay.
to study a bachelor’s in Fashion Design at the University of Leeds
before relocating back to her hometown, Hong Kong, to work as www.nutcasefashion.etsy.com.
a commercial fashion designer.
Written by Claire Johnson
14
18. CARMAN
photographer & blogger
CHAN
Met Your Style. She runs the blog together with photographer
and designer Ken Wu—the two photograph fashion bloggers
wearing their own ensembles in casual settings, whether at home
or roaming their neighborhood. The result is a site that has been
cited as a source of fashion inspiration by such powerhouses as
Vogue Paris and Glamour.
“It was the beginning of my photography career and I wanted
to build my portfolio and produce test shoots,” explains Chan.
“Usually you have to find a hair stylist, makeup artist, wardrobe
stylist and model, and it’s hard to find a good team.” Chan ended
up photographing a fashion blogger whose style she admired,
and the project took off from there. The pair plan to include art-
ists, designers and other creative types from cities all over the
U.S. and Asia—particularly more locations in South East Asia
like Hong Kong and Taiwan.
The natural settings and poses of How I Met Your Style echo
Chan’s distinctively natural and organic photographic style. “I
try to use natural light whenever possible. How I Met Your Style
is 98 percent film. With digital, unless it’s specifically requested
by the client, if the direction is up to me there’s very little post-
Photographer Carmen Chan currently works between Los Ange- processing. I’m not going to add lens flare and post, or adjust the
les and Hong Kong, making stops throughout Asia and the U.S. color too much. If I want to add color, I add gels to the light. Any
along the way. Though a fashion photographer, her style is soft- post-processing that I do is to make it look closer to film. I just
er and more natural than most, winning her clients from Lane like that aesthetic, color and contrast.”
Crawford to fashion brand Rag & Bone.
One client Chan has worked with recently is Mata Hari, where
Born in Las Vegas and raised in Hong Kong, Carmen Chan origi- she shot a lookbook for their handbags. Another notable experi-
nally dreamt of being a TV or film producer after an eclectic edu- ence with a client that Chan mentions was a shoot with Colonial
SPOTLIGHT
cation in communication at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. Goods, who were then doing a collaboration with local brand
After three years in the business in L.A., though, she discovered G.O.D. “They created T-shirts manufactured by Lee Gong Man,
a love of photography and decided to switch careers. a really old knitting factory. I got to go into the factory and pho-
tograph the machinery and the process.”
Like any aspiring photographer, Chan was first presented with
the challenge of building a solid portfolio, which actually ended
up leading to her personal fashion photography project, How I www.carmen-chan.com
Written by Leanne Mirandilla
18
22. FASHION F
Sustainability is quickly picking up momentum in the fashion to be sold on Paltrow’s lifestyle and e-commerce website, Goop.
industry. Almost everyone in the fashion world is getting in Although only available in the U.S., they are apparently selling
on the act from high-end designers to your high street stores. out fast.
Surprisingly, even Hong Kong, our city of extravagance and
excess is producing some very promising up-and-coming eco- Not to be outdone by the designers and celebs, even high street
conscious designers. We talk to some of these designers about department stores like Marks & Spencer are jumping on the
their designs, as well as Christina Dean, CEO and founder of bandwagon. Recently launched is the store’s first garment made
Redress—a non-profit that is promoting sustainable fashion in from second-hand clothing donated by customers in the UK
Hong Kong and China to get the lowdown on what’s hap-
— called the “Shwop” coat—a limited edition double-breasted pea
pening in the Hong Kong eco fashion coat for women which reportedly costs
world. less than half of the price of a coat made
from pure virgin wool. M&S launched
The movement itself is not new—the its campaign of “shwopping” back in
idea of sustainable fashion has, in fact, April this year where customers leave an
been around since the early 90s but it old item of clothing each time they buy
has come a long way from its days of something new with the aim of col-
hemp ponchos, bamboo shoes and oth- lecting as many pieces as they sell. The
er miscellaneous odd-looking garments. donated clothing is then passed onto Ox-
Sustainable fashion is now a global fam; shipped to Italy, where it is reduced
phenomenon and a part of the growing to fibre form, cleaned and made into new
design philosophy where a product is fabric before being sold on to M&S sup-
created and produced with the least en- pliers. The retailer believes this to be a
vironmental and social impact (and this huge step towards creating a sustainable
includes carbon footprints), but which future for fashion.
are all still stylish and wearable. What’s
more, sustainable fashion is no longer And just to show the world that the
the exclusive domain of a handful of fashion industry is serious about sustain-
alternative designers, these days it’s the ability, eco-friendly fashion weeks are
established haute couture designers as popping up all over: Portland Fashion
well as high street fashion retailers that Week, which has featured sustainable
are re-introducing eco-conscious ways designers and apparel since 2005, has
to their creations, whether it’s through also attracted international press for its
the use of environmentally friendly materials or via socially efforts to sustainably produce a fashion week that showcases
responsible methods. 100 percent eco-friendly designs; Ecoluxe London runs a
non-profit organization that promotes and supports ecological
From the likes of Stella McCartney, where 20 to 30 percent of and sustainable luxury fashion a bi-annual exhibition during
her collection is said to contain some sort of eco or sustain- London Fashion Week showcasing work of eco fashion brands
able element, whether it’s an organic fabric or a natural dye; to from around the world. There’s also the Copenhagen Fashion
Gwyneth Paltrow, actress-lifestyle guru-food expert and now Summit, and according to the Summit’s organizers, this is the
fashion designer, who has teamed up with British ethical label world’s largest and most important conference on sustainability
INSIGHT
Chinti and Parker to create limited-edition cashmere sweaters in the fashion industry. This biennial event gathers more than
which feature Chinti and Parker’s signature buttoned shoulders, 1,000 key industry stakeholders to identify new opportunities
contrast-colour pockets and statement-making elbow patches and forward-looking solutions for the global fashion industry to
22
23. FORWARD
tackle the growing challenges facing the planet. sustainable fashion design competitions, seminars, exhibitions,
by conducting research and certifications, explains Dean, “We
So that’s the story on the global front, but what’s happening in have to work with the whole fashion supply chain. Every single
our own backyard? Is Hong Kong doing its bit to contribute to player in the fashion supply chain creates environmental degra-
a more eco-conscious way to produce and consume fashion? dation, whether you’re the cotton farmer, the textile producer,
What is available out there for those of us who are ready to be the garment manufacturer, the designer, the retailer or the end
more socially responsible with our purchases? consumer.”
Firstly, a few statistics about the clothing industry in this part of On the educational side, Redress is targeting two main groups:
the world: according to a study done by the Hong Kong Envi- the consumers and the design-
ronmental Protection Department in 2010, on average, a mind- ers. On consumers, Dean says,
boggling 234 tonnes of textiles were discarded into Hong Kong “Although we often focus so
landfills on a daily basis; in China 17 to 20 percent of industrial much on the industry, there
water pollution comes from textile dyeing and treatment, as a are studies that have found that
result, 72 toxic chemicals in China’s water originate solely from more than half of the environ-
textile dyeing and of these, 30 cannot be removed; and finally, mental impact of a garment is
from a study done by BSR, a non-profit organization promot- created by the consumer. This
ing social responsibility in business, on Water Management is because consumers over
in China’s Apparel and Textile Factories claims that the textile wash and over dry and discard
industry is one of the largest polluting sectors in China. their clothing inappropriately.
We consume approximately
Faced with such shocking statistics former dental surgeon and 60 percent more clothes today
journalist, Dr. Christina Dean was jolted into action and started than we did 10 years ago. This
Redress in Hong Kong, a Hong Kong based NGO with a mis- means that many consumers are
sion to promote environmental sustainability in Asia’s fashion basically on the search for low-
industry. As the founder and CEO of Redress, Dean recognized price clothes with which to stuff their wardrobes and they don’t
the severity of the damage that we are doing in the textile indus- consider the ‘true’ price for their purchases. The ‘true’ price is
try alone “We have a very serious issue on our hands in Hong a horrible environmental and social bill that millions of people
Kong, because of our proximity have to suffer. Because of this, we need to educate consumers.”
to China. China is the world’s To do this, Redress regularly organizes public exhibitions, cloth-
largest clothing and textile ing drives and workshops to educate and raise awareness of the
exporter that is responsible for consumers.
approximately 30 percent of the
world’s garments and 40 per- For designers, Redress has, for two years running, been organiz-
cent of the world’s textiles. It’s ing the EcoChic Design Award as a way to inspire and challenge
because we are so close to this local fashion designers to combine style with sustainability.
incredible fashion machine that According to Dean, 80 percent of the environmental impact of
our position in Hong Kong and a product is determined by the designer and in Asia there is a
our work at Redress is so im- lack of sustainable fashion education for designers, adds Dean,
portant,” states Dean. Redress’ “One way to do this is via a competition that draws in emerging
INSIGHT
goal is therefore, to reduce fashion design talent and brings them on an educational and
waste in Asia’s fashion indus- competitive journey that ultimately helps to change the pat-
try by organizing educational tern of fashion.” Not only does the winner get bragging rights
23
24. to being EcoChic Design Award winner, he or she will be sent available. Hong Kong fashion designer, Johanna Ho, who re-
to the UK to experience a cultural exchange to soak up UK’s cently collaborated with British artist and print designer Leanne
pioneering sustainable fashion scene. The trip serves to expand Claxton to launch their joint collection called HO:CLAXTON.
the designer’s creativity and understanding of innovation in The collection uses zero wastage pattern cutting techniques for
sustainable fashion and the winner also gets an opportunity to each design, in which each garment has no leftover fabric wast-
work with popular fashion label Esprit, to design and create an age, cohering to Ho’s belief for her overall design concepts—to
eco chic collection using innovative recycled textiles, created by create and produce responsibly. There is also Mutt Museum,
recycling Esprit’s own textile a label started by designer, Janko Lam (who happens to be
manufacturing waste. Once the last year’s winner of the EcoChic Design award), has a unique
collection launches for retail, collection of elegant cheong sams made out of recycled fabric
the designer’s name, design and denim which breathes new life into a classic shape, but also
concept and quote will be pro- makes the traditional dresses suitable for daily wear.
moted via Esprit’s press release
and be promoted via Esprit and Accessories-wise, there are a few ingenious and stylish design-
Redress’ social media channels. ers out there, though two of note are: Annalisa Ryle of Bez &
Oho and Handsome Co.’s Billy Potts (who is actually a qualified
One such lucky and inspired solicitor before becoming a designer). Whilst both Ryle’s and
designer is this year’s winner, Potts’ collection are primarily focused on bags, their design
Wister Tsang, whose edgy yet looks could not be more different: Ryle’s collection of bespoke
sophisticated collection for the bags, totes and messenger bags and accessories are fun, colour-
competition focused on using ful and at times, flirtatious and
pre-loved denim as his main whimsical while Potts’ designs
material. On top of being a are more metropolitan, sleek
durable material, denim never and modern.
goes out of style, and also, as
Tsang further explains, “Eve- But what is interesting is both
ryone has jeans and the cost of designers’ choice of materials.
this material as a second hand For Ryle, she uses rice bags and
commodity is low. My collec- excess fabrics from factories,
tion’s focus is on collage and “The rice bags are collected
simplicity. For the details, I and bought from restaurants
turned the jeans inside out and and shops and individuals. The
used the lining as a distinc- fabrics are purchased from local
tive feature of the collection.” hawkers selling off the factory
And since winning the Award over production and also from
earlier this year, Tsang has been locally established material
working with Esprit on their shops. All of our hardware is
Recycled Collection, which is also from companies started in
said to debut in the Spring/Summer Collection 2013. Hong Kong.” Potts’, however,
uses a material that is very
In the meantime, where can eco-conscious but fashion-savvy familiar to us all and yet it’s not
Hong Kongers turn to for some sustainable fashion? Admittedly, something we would think of
we are not exactly inundated with choices, but there are options that can be up-cycled—taxi seat
INSIGHT
24
25. upholstery. Sounds rather dull, but the end result is surprisingly industry back and preventing innovation. Too many people
smart and urbane, says Potts, “I like taking elements, which are are fixed on, for example, the higher cost of organic cotton and
perceived to be mundane and elevating them. Most of these they repeatedly cite this as an over-arching obstacle to achieving
elements are regarded as mundane because they are ubiquitous sustainability in the fashion industry.”
and have become invisible to us. Our designs appear simple in
form and construction. The reasons for this are practical as well In spite of this, it is comforting to know that organizations like
as aesthetic. I’m looking to reduce wastage in production and Redress all over the world are standing firm in their convic-
make the manufacturing process as efficient as possible while tion and are pushing forward with research, educating, raising
reducing, where possible, additional materials.” awareness within the industry as well as the consumer and
while the number of eco conscious designers and clothing
It is good to know that there are sustainable and totally wearable retailers are on the rise, it is ultimately the consumers who need
alternatives available and in theory, it makes perfect sense to to demand a more sustainable business model from the fashion
be more eco conscious, so why isn’t eco fashion gaining a more industry because after all, as Dean puts it simply, “Money talks
prominent and it’s consumers who drive the fashion industry, what they
spot in the buy is vital to how the industry shapes up.”
market place?
According
to Dean,
there are
two underly-
ing factors
standing in
the way of the
sustainable
fashion indus-
try, “On the
consumer front, the issue is low price and over-consumption.
Like other industries, such as food, the price of various goods
has dropped over the last few decades owing to globalization.
As a result, consumers now view fashion as ‘fast-fashion’. On the
designer front, there are a few challenges. One might be the fear
that sustain-
able fashion
design costs
more. It is
long cited that
sustainability
in the fashion
industry costs
more. This
is something
that is really
holding the Written by Renee Wong Greenwood
INSIGHT
25
28. Movana Chen first started out studying fashion design in
university—now, she creates wearable art using thin strips
of paper, often from deconstructed books given to her by
friends. From journeying to Sicily to retrieve a book for a
new piece to orchestrating group knitting sessions filled
with hundreds of people, Movana brings people together
with her work. We visit Movana in her Shek Kip Mei stu-
dio where she tells us about her work and approach amidst
clicks of her knitting needles.
Photo provided by Movana Chen
Written by Leanne Mirandilla RAW: How did you start making MC: I traveled to different countries.
Photography by Matina Cheung, wearable art out of knitted paper? From 2009 I traveled to London, Milan,
Selected Images provided by Movana Chen Korea, Michigan, Philadelphia, Sicily,
Movana Chen: I thought about using all Paris. It depends on where the friend
the collections in my bookshelf—all my comes from. They invite me to “travel
magazines and art books, so 139 books. into their bookshelf ”. I stay in their home
I tried to study the relationship between and get to know a culture outside of
[myself and] each book. I started the Hong Kong. Like in Sicily, a small village,
project, “Traveling into Your Bookshelf ”. I just try to learn from [the people there.]
I invite people to donate one book from I live in an unknown city and travel with
their bookshelf; all these materials are my big suitcase and my artwork and meet
from my friends’ bookshelves around the new people. It’s interesting.
world, in different languages. This one
is in Korean, called “One Day.” I read RAW: How does that get ex-
the English version and also watched pressed in your artwork?
the movie and tried to understand what
memories or story my friend wanted to MC: Every time I meet different peo-
share with me. Then I use their material ple from every country—not just the
to create my artwork. This is another one people who invite me [into their homes],
STUDIO VISIT
of the books I read—the inside is gone but strangers I meet in the street or in
and has become artwork, but I kept the restaurants—I connect different people’s
cover. The way I read is like knitting. I lives together. Now most of them became
keep a record and try to invite my friends friends because of my project. I link them
to write something [on the book] to share together—and not just via Facebook. You
with me. can touch the artwork that’s very close
to the person [who provided the book
RAW: You said the books are from for it], then meet them and talk to them.
friends arou nd the world—do you So my artwork connects people together
visit them in their home cou ntries more closely. I started another project—I
when you get their books? invited friends to bring one book from
their bookshelf and then teach them to
28
29. knit the book [into an art piece]. It will RAW: Have you ever tried wear-
be about 400 people knitting together ing any of your art pieces?
to make a big artwork next year. Each
person will knit one book. MC: [I wore] “The Body Container.”
[A long, funnel-like piece that covered
RAW: Do you come from an artis- Chen’s head and came down to her feet.]
tic family? I tried to wear it and perform it in differ-
ent cities. This one [indicates picture] was
MC: One of [my family members] is in Hong Kong, in Central. I collaborated
a performance artist in London, and with Shanghai Tang. I wore it around
another is a fashion designer in London. the store. It covered my whole body, and
But my parent are businesspeople. I’ve in- the material used was from Shanghai
vited most of my family to knit together Tang’s catalogs. [The performance] was
also. My sister’s husband, my grandmum. about fashion culture and how to interact
with local people in Hong Kong. I also
RAW: Are there any special tech- performed it in the [Hong Kong] Art
niques you use to knit the paper? Fair. It’s very different if you perform
in the street. In Hong Kong, people are
MC: Actually it’s similar [to regular busy so they will just keep their distance.
knitting], but it’s a little bit complicated They don’t come to look at you or ask you
to knit the paper layer by layer. It’s like any questions. But in the art fair, people
meditation—I knit all the time and al- were very different because they knew it
ways repeat. Like one row is 186 stitches, was art. So even kids asked their mums,
and each line takes about half an hour. “What is she doing? Should we try to help
her out? She’s locked in there.” I also went
RAW: How long does it take to fin- to London and Paris and wore the body
ish one piece? container made with different materials,
like travel maps.
MC: For this one [gestures to piece she’s
currently knitting], it’s going to be on a RAW: What are some of the reac-
canvas like a painting, 150 centimeters tions you’ve gotten when perform-
by 150 centimeters. It will take about two ing on the street?
and a half months; knitting five hours per
day, at least. MC: Some people were scared or
shocked. In Korea it was different. Two
STUDIO VISIT
29
30. years ago, I performed there with a Ko- 35 to 40 people, but more are coming.
rean guy with [the piece connecting the The ages range from five to 90. They’re all
two of us from our heads]. Us two had to from different backgrounds and cultures.
walk together. We couldn’t walk too fast At least 200 [overall] are students—it’s
or too slow. [The piece] was about North part of their education program. Not art
Korea and South Korea. We performed students—just secondary school students.
in the street and a kid tried to touch and It’s very interesting when [the partici-
pull the piece. Some people in the subway pants] don’t know each other. Sometimes
pushed me away and I fell down. They we have 10 to 20 people sitting together
got very angry. And some people got very and knitting, and when we sit together
excited. In Paris people always came to we talk. They talk about their stories and
ask many questions. In London it was everyone becomes friends.
totally different, also. It’s a mixed culture
in London—there are many travelers RAW: Any interesting reactions
there. It was also similar to Hong Kong— when others tried to wear or
the people were not aware of what I was make a piece?
doing there, or they didn’t care. Maybe
because there are many street performers MC: They said, “can I buy it?” Some kept
in London. it in their house, some were collectors.
STUDIO VISIT
RAW: Have other people ever RAW: Is there any environ mental-
worn your works? ist aspect to your work?
MC: In some exhibitions, I invited the MC: For paper, the first impression of
audience or visitors to wear and experi- people is that it’s about recycling and
ence the material. They can touch, wear, how you help the environment. But my
and even make it. I teach people to knit message is not about recycling. People
now in my “Knitting Conversations” pro- try to give me their magazines from their
ject. Once or twice a month, we meet in home—they want to throw it away—they
different locations in Hong Kong or over- bring them and put them outside of my
seas and knit together. Now there’s only studio. But I don’t need them—I don’t
30
32. need anything you throw away or that’s shelves or recycling from the street—it MC: I studied painting and drawing.
not meaningful to you. My artworks was different, I took it to the next step. When I was a kid I was interested in
are about your culture, your life, your The material was more important. I painting, also. I just found out about this
love, everything—not about something asked my friends to choose one of their [interest] not long ago—just one week
you don’t want. Some people hate the favorite books from their bookshelves, so ago. I wrote diaries when I was a kid. I
books [they gave me]. Some books have it’s more about communication and how tried to use my diaries for my art project.
a special meaning, like “The Never- I share the memories of different people I read them again and read one that was
ending Story”, a children’s book. The and connect their lives together. from a long time ago, from the 80s, and
person who gave it to me—when she was found out I knew how to draw and paint
unwell, she would just sleep on the bed RAW: Do you have any favorite at that time. When I had my first major
for a long time. The book was with her artists, artists that inspire you? project, it was knitting. And then, after
so she would read it. Some friends give that, I had more projects. People from
me books that inspired them. One of the MC: Not really [inspirations], but an art- different countries invited me to have
participants in one of my projects—he’s ist I like is Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. exhibitions. They were more interested in
77 or so—the book he wanted to share I really like her work—the way she does this work, so since 2005 it’s been non-
was purchased by his friend. And some it is also like meditation. She repeated the stop. Every day, I’m knitting.
of them share stories with me that are dots [one of her signature art styles] since
secret; only between me and the person. very early [on in her career], and now she
keeps doing it. You can see how in love www.movanachen.com
RAW: How does your art relate to she is with art and how she shares with
fashion? people of different ages. Everyone loves
her work; it makes people happy.
MC: In the very beginning, it related
to fashion because I studied fashion in RAW: Are you interested in any
London before. But after I started col- other art forms?
lecting materials—not just from book-
STUDIO VISIT
32
35. 08:00
Location: Hotel Orientale, Palermo, Sicily
Having breakfast in the living room and admir-
ing the ceiling painting.
11:00 - 13:30
Location: Hotel Orientale, Palermo, Sicily
Sitting with the owner of the hotel, a nice fanily,
and knitting in the reception area. I share with
them my “travelling bookshelf ” project. Next,
I’m headed to Cianciana.
STUDIO VISIT - DAY IN THE LIFE OF ...
14:30
Location: Palermo, Sicily
Getting on the bus, which will take about two
and a half hours, to Cianciana—it’s so exciting!
14:30 Should be the right bus? The bus driver doesn’t
speak English.
17:00
Location: Cianciana, Sicily
Wow! I’ve arrived in Cianciana. The bus just
stopped along the main street. Here in Cianci-
ana, all the old houses stand alone on a hill and
appears as if it’s a painting
17:00
Location: Cianciana, Sicily
Looking for Elizabeth’s studio on my map and
dragging my big suitcase on the pebble path
down a hill.
17:30
Location: Studio Sicilia, Cianciana, Sicily
17:00 How nice, this is Elizabeth’s studio where I’m
going to stay for my two-week “travelling book-
shelf ” project. Oh no! I have to carry this heavy
luggage, which weighs 23kg, up a flight of stairs.
17:00 18:00
Location: Studio Sicilia, Cianciana, Sicily
A very unique simple door with no lock. I got
a message from Elizabeth from Beijing—there’s
no electricity tonight and the supermarket will
be closed at 8pm during the Easter Holidays. Oh
no, I have to hurry out to buy candles and food!
18:00
Location: Studio Sicilia, Cianciana, Sicily
Bought these sweet biscuits.
20:00
Location: Studio Sicilia, Cianciana, Sicily
How is it possible that the first night I arrive in
Cianciana, there’s no electricity in the studio and
there’s noone to fix it because of the holidays?
I’ll have to stay a few nights in the dark.
21:00
Location: Studio Sicilia, Cianciana, Sicily
Knitting in the dark.
Photo provided by Movana Chen
38. An intrepid filmmaker, photographer and writer, Sean
Lee Davies has ventured to far-flung corners of the globe
to document moments that are rarely captured. From
the steppes of Mongolia to the technicolour flurry of a
traditional festival in India, Sean’s photos are snapshots
into worlds that few have the privilege of experiencing first
hand.
Leaving behind a plush job as the editorial director of Asia
Tatler—a role which enabled him to gallivant to Cannes
for the annual film festival and interview A-listers such as
Leonardo DiCaprio and Marc Jacobs—was hard, especially
in the throes of the financial crisis in 2008. But, four years
on, Sean is producing various television shows for Asian
cable networks, and has also shifted his focus to cast a
spotlight on social social causes, such as his 2010 docu-
mentary Cancer & The City, which profiled the life of a
terminal cancer patient in Hong Kong for National
Geographic. He is also the founder of C CHANGE—an
annual expedition climbing to the peak of Kilimanjaro in
order to raise awareness for climate change.
We catch up with Sean on the set of a fashion shoot to find
out more about this globe-trotter’s continued devotion to
the craft of photography and the moving image.
Written by Beverly Cheng RAW: You are a photographer and range of subject matter in your
Photography by Joyce Yung, Matina Cheung a fil m-maker, what do you like photography, what is your most
Selected Images provided by Sean Lee Davies most from each mediu m and how memorable moment?
do they differ creatively for you?
SD: I get most excited about being in the
Sean Davies: What I like about pho- wildernesses and amongst remote popu-
tography is that it’s a very personal and lations, far away from city lights; places
spontaneous artform. Most of the time that few others will have the chance to
it’s just me and my camera. Even on large see in their lifetimes. I’ve had the privi-
commercial shoots that involve a big set lege of visiting the steppes of Mongolia to
and a crew, the final outcome depends watch Kazaks hunting with their eagles,
largely on the relationship I build be- climbing to the peak of Kilimanjaro, or
tween myself and the model or sitter. camping on the banks of the Zambezi
river all because of photography and I’m
Making films, by necessity, is a far more thankful for that.
complicated craft and involves a lot more
people so there is far greater risk of fail- RAW: What inspires you?
ure or deviation from the original plan.
As a result, you lose the spontaneity that SD: I’m a museum and gallery junkie
STUDIO VISIT
photography confers but in the process and whenever I have the chance I’ll visit
you gain the sensory power of sound a museum or gallery to get inspiration,
and music. Film for me is life writ large, especially when I’m in London, New York
a grand opera of the senses, whereas a or Paris. But the internet has to be the
great photograph should fill your mind greatest source of inspiration these days.
with music. Whether it’s a quirky story on Facebook,
a beautiful photograph on Filckr or a re-
RAW: You have worked on a large pin on Pinterest; there is so much amaz-
38
39. ing content out there now that it’s just a new photographer these days is the inter-
question of being able to find some great net and digital photography itself. It’s
references and create something new. not particularly hard being a photogra-
pher because of digital, but it’s become
RAW: What was the biggest risk increasingly more difficult to make a liv-
you’ve ever taken? ing as a photographer when you start out.
Digital photography has been an amazing
SD: Career wise? I left a pretty cushy job evolution in photography, but the flip
as director of editorial and photography side is that it has killed the industry as Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
of Edipresse Asia, a pan Asian publishing there are just so many photographers and
company, to form my own production amazing photographs in the marketplace
company. That was pretty hard given the and people are willing to do things very
circumstances, as it was right after the cheaply just to get a foot in the door.
big crash of 2008.
RAW: You just came back from
RAW: What are some of the major New York Fashion Week, can you
road blocks while you were start- describe your work and experi-
ing out in your creative career? ence there.
SD: Hong Kong can be a very commer- SD: NYC fashion week is always a lot of
cially-driven place and pursuing the arts fun and the after parties this year were
is not really considered a career path. For particularly memorable. Just about every-
a long time I had to have, in effect, two one and their dog is a street blogger
jobs one as a magazine editor and one as and photographer and it’s a bit of a media
a staff photographer. The benefit of scrum. You arrive at a show and get
this was that I was exposed to a wide photographed by some bloggers who
variety of photography jobs, from fashion think you might be someone important,
to still-life to sports photography. Unfor- while all the bloggers are photographing
tunately the biggest roadblock to a each other, and then the press photog- Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
39
40. Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
STUDIO VISIT
Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
40
41. Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
STUDIO VISIT
Photo provided by Sean Lee Davies
41
43. Take Five:
Fun facts
raphers are photographing the bloggers very rewarding experience.
photographing the celebs and guests!
about Sean Lee
I’ve been going for years as an editor, but
RAW: I noticed that you are very
at ease during a shoot despite
Davies
this year I was there for a few brands, there being a lot of prep work. 1. What’s your favorite cloth-
such as J. Crew and photographing all the What are the secrets to getting ing item?
shows and behind the scenes for “the” shot for each setting?
different publications, such as Modern My camera vest, which I pack up to
Weekly. SD: Accepting that what you plan never 10kg of gear so I can get onto a flight
turns out the way you planned it. Taking without paying extra weight fees!
RAW: Tel l us more about your the time to work out the shot.
docu mentary fil m Cancer & The 2. You seem to be a very ac-
City? tive person, what are your
www.seanleedavies.com other hobbies?
SD: I wrote, directed and produced a film
about young people living with cancer in Music is my other great passion –
Hong Kong for Nat Geo [National Geo- piano and guitar.
graphic]. It focuses on the touching story
of a young woman struggling to live her 3. What’s your favorite color?
life with all the odds stacked up against
her. It was hard to film both emotionally Blue, all the shades of blue.
and logistically because everything was
dependent on her health. During the 4. What is your favorite cam-
filming, her health deteriorated rapidly era lens?
and the production was postponed for
four months. I learnt a great deal about Nikon 105mm f/2.
the human spirit from meeting thes
cancer patients who show tremendous 5. What do you like to shoot
courage in the face of adversity—it was a for fu n?
STUDIO VISIT
Macro insect life!
43
44. STUDIO VISIT - DAY IN THE LIFE OF ...
01
07
44
06
06
02
03
08
05
45. STUDIO VISIT - DAY IN THE LIFE OF ...
Behind the scenes with Sean
Lee Davies at a men’s magazine
fashion photo shoot in Sheu ng
Wan.
04 01
04 Sean is pretty happy with the shot.
This isn’t a staged shot, he really is this
happy and jovial on set.
02
Sean becomes the model on a motor-
cycle.
03
Setting up for the second shot on the
motorcycle. Sean’s providing direction
for the model.
04
Double checking the shots with the
producer and stylist.
05
Another change in setting, Sean is
working out the angles with producer
09 Mike Davies.
06
Just a few touch-ups before the models
are photo ready.
07
Getting click-happy, Sean tests out
various shots before getting the perfect
frame.
08
The balancing act: Sean coaches the
model through an action shot balanc-
ing on top of a motorcycle.
09
Reviewing the final selected photos
before the group changes to another
setting.
45
46. STUDIO VISIT - DAY IN THE LIFE OF ...
The Universe is My Mind
宇宙是吾心 RAW: What motivates you to continue in the field?
Angelika Li: Passion. It is my core motivation.
RAW: What is your definition of art?
Gallerist Angelika Li shares how passion has
motivated her to pursue a career in art—an inter- AL: Art can be both enlightening and deceptive, it depends on
est passed down from her parents. Her interest in which side you are looking at it from.
art grew during her teenage years and would later
lead her to a bachelor’s in art history and architec- RAW: If you had to pick a favourite era, movement in
ture in the UK and a master’s in cultural manage- art or specific artist what wou ld it be?
ment from Hong Kong. While she has worked
both in the UK and in the U.S., Angelika returned AL: There are so many, I can’t pick just one. There are so many
to Hong Kong where she’s now the manager of works of art that have increased my hunger for knowledge in
Hanart TZ Gallery—one of Hong Kong’s most art, they include the spiritual paintings at Lascaux dated back
celebrated art galleries that focus on Chinese art. around 16,000-14,000 B.C.; the “Jockey of Artemision”, a Hel-
lenistic bronze equestrian monument at National Archaeologi-
cal Museum, Athens dated to c.140 BC - 200 B.C., that captured
the excitement and vitality of a horserace and the rider’s passion
on his face is more than lifelike; from Italy I was so intrigued
by the humour of Giulio Romano who broke the classical rules
in architecture, for instance in the Palazzo del Te he built in the
16th Century in Mantova; Hong Kong artist Irene Chou’s bold
Written by Beverly Cheng and powerful structural strokes in Impact series in 1980s to her
Images from Angelika Li “The Universe Is My Mind” series got me into a trance...I should
stop here otherwise it will develop into an endless list!
RAW: What was the first piece of art you’ve ever
purchased (or have an eye on, if you haven’t pur-
chased anything yet)? Why did you make the pur-
chase?
AL: It’s Wan Qingli’s “The Frog in the Shallow Well” [pictured].
Not only do I admire’s Dr. Wan’s calligraphy and Ink painting,
what I love the most is his humour.
47. RAW: What’s your advice for col lectors?
AL: I think it’s an enjoyable process to do homework and dis-
cuss with other collectors and gallerists about the artists and the
works on your mind. Buying art is like a treasure hunt. By plac-
ing bets on young potential artists’ work, it’s like training and
testing your level taste and [artistic] eye and knowledge.
RAW: How do you predict what’s coming up next?
What are the latest trends in art col lecting?
AL: I look into the depth of meaning of an artist’s work and
consider how his or her work would influence and contribute to
the future development in the history of art. I have developed a
particular interest in Chinese contemporary ink art. It’s interest-
ing to see how the medium of ink within the context of inter-
national contemporary art, contemporary Chinese art, and the
tradition of Chinese ink painting itself evolve.
RAW: Is Chinese Contemporary art dead? What’s left?
AL: There is a vast number of artists from Hong Kong who de-
serve more academic discussion and recognition on an interna-
tional level, especially the Hong Kong masters whose work are
way too undervalued given their contribution to and status in
the local and international art scenes.
RAW: What is the most important part of your job?
AL: To make more people involved and engaged in art.
ART SA
The Universe is My Mind
VVY
宇宙是吾心
Wan Qingli, “The Frog in the Shallow Well”
47
48. Davina
Stephens
Bali is often thought to be a paradise destination—a place where Written by Beverly Cheng
the soft sway of palm trees, sun-drenched beaches and a rich, Images from Davina Stephens
vibrant culture have inspired the curiosity of travelers from all
corners of the world. From batik prints to teak woodcut sculp-
tures, Balinese arts and crafts have long been popular beyond
the reaches of this small tropical island. Artist Davina Stephens
has devoted the past 30 years to capturing what truly makes her
homeland unique. Although she left Bali as a teenager for India
and Australia, she always knew that she would return. Davina
often reflects back on a time before the tourist buses clogged
the streets and mega resorts invaded the coastline; a time a time
when, as a young girl, she would bike down the dirt roads she
would bike down the dirt roads and dodge falling coconuts
BINOCULARS
with her Balinese classmates. In her art, she juxtaposes iconic
Balinese symbols of sea, sand and surf and mythical underwater
creatures with images of Hindu gods, temples and mundane
modern items. Davina’s style has transformed over the years,
too, from surrealist and dreamy compositions awash with
soft pastels, to monochromatic erotic nudes, stark woodcuts
and multi-layered mixed media canvases. Her work has been
exhibited in Bali, across Asia and has reached as far as France
and Australia. With each exhibition abroad, Davina transmits
her vision of Bali—a land of mythical beauty and where she is
proud to call her home.
www.davinastephens.com
48
