The document provides installation instructions for connecting a vestibule connector between two shelters. It involves aligning the shelters and connection points, installing the vestibule floor between the shelters and attaching them, installing the vestibule framework including eave bars and doors, and attaching the vestibule roof panel to create an enclosed vestibule between the two shelters.
Here is a user guide for one of the screens from Elite
Elite screens are available from Dukane.
Dukane is an American company serving the education, corporate, government and house of worship markets for over 85 years.
For more information contact Dukane AV :
Phone: 800-676-2485
Fax: (630) 584-5156
Email: AVSales@Dukane.com
Website: www.Dukane.com/AV
Dukane AV
2900 Dukane Drive
St. Charles, IL 60174
Here is a user guide for one of the screens from Elite
Elite screens are available from Dukane.
Dukane is an American company serving the education, corporate, government and house of worship markets for over 85 years.
For more information contact Dukane AV :
Phone: 800-676-2485
Fax: (630) 584-5156
Email: AVSales@Dukane.com
Website: www.Dukane.com/AV
Dukane AV
2900 Dukane Drive
St. Charles, IL 60174
Details of Construction course presentation on Roofs and Floors , broadly discuss by definition , types with photo and cool animation .
Highly recommended for download then slide show otherwise you'll miss animation effect with some details .
#For_Basic_knowledge_on_construction_of_roofs_and_floors
How to Install the Last Row of Laminate Flooring - Installation Tutorial
- Universal Installation: This tutorial walks you a universal installation of the last row of laminate flooring. It can be used in any type of room including one that may have obstacles, cabinets or tight spaces.
Step 1: Measure the Gap: In most cases, the last row of flooring will need to be cut in order to fit the space. You will need to measure the gap between the last installed plank and the wall. Remember to factor in the expansion gap!
Tip: Measure the gap at each end of the plank to get an accurate measurement. Walls can bow in or out causing a slightly different measurement at the beginning and end of a plank.
Step 2: Expansion Gap: Be sure to exclude the expansion gap in your measurement! .25” for a room under 30 ft. in length, .5” for over 30 ft. in length. Your moldings should cover this gap.
Step 3: Mark your Plank: Once the width of the plank is determined, mark the plank with a pencil according to the cut needed. Use another plank as your straight edge guide.
Tip: If the side of the plank with a locking system is against the wall, you will want to trim the plank so it has a smooth, solid edge butting against the wall.
Step 4: Cut your Plank: Use a saw to cut the plank with the decorative side up. We recommend using a jigsaw or table saw.
Jigsaw: Use a laminate cutting blade, which has a medium tooth, downstroke blade.
Table Saw: Use a medium tooth carbide blade with upside down teeth.
Step 5: Lock in the Plank: Add spacers to the end of the plank. Tilt the plank into the locking system at a 45 degree angle.
Tip: Before installing, check to make sure the plank fits. You may have to cut more of the plank to fit if your previous cut wasn’t as precise.
Step 6: Use a Pull Bar: Use a pull bar along the side of the plank, pushing the plank down and into the locking system securely Do this along the full plank.
Hint: Depending on the locking system, you may need to connect several planks together and install all at one time. The ends may not be able to connect plank by plank.
Step 7: The Next Plank: Repeat steps 1-4 to measure and cut the next plank for installation.
Step 8: Trim the Track: In most cases, it will be hard to lock your plank in two both locking systems. You can trim the track down with a blade or end of the pull bar to prepare for gluing the planks together.
Step 9: Glue the Planks: After the track is trimmed, apply woodworkers glue on the joint. Position the next plank on an angle to connect into the locking system without lowering the edge onto the glue.
Step 10: Tap Together: Use the pull bar on the side of the plank like previously stated. To secure the first and second plank, use a tapping block to connect the ends of the first and second plank in the last row.
Step 11 – Continue Installing: Continue installing the planks until you are at the end of the row. Now you’re ready to install your moldings!
Details of Construction course presentation on Roofs and Floors , broadly discuss by definition , types with photo and cool animation .
Highly recommended for download then slide show otherwise you'll miss animation effect with some details .
#For_Basic_knowledge_on_construction_of_roofs_and_floors
How to Install the Last Row of Laminate Flooring - Installation Tutorial
- Universal Installation: This tutorial walks you a universal installation of the last row of laminate flooring. It can be used in any type of room including one that may have obstacles, cabinets or tight spaces.
Step 1: Measure the Gap: In most cases, the last row of flooring will need to be cut in order to fit the space. You will need to measure the gap between the last installed plank and the wall. Remember to factor in the expansion gap!
Tip: Measure the gap at each end of the plank to get an accurate measurement. Walls can bow in or out causing a slightly different measurement at the beginning and end of a plank.
Step 2: Expansion Gap: Be sure to exclude the expansion gap in your measurement! .25” for a room under 30 ft. in length, .5” for over 30 ft. in length. Your moldings should cover this gap.
Step 3: Mark your Plank: Once the width of the plank is determined, mark the plank with a pencil according to the cut needed. Use another plank as your straight edge guide.
Tip: If the side of the plank with a locking system is against the wall, you will want to trim the plank so it has a smooth, solid edge butting against the wall.
Step 4: Cut your Plank: Use a saw to cut the plank with the decorative side up. We recommend using a jigsaw or table saw.
Jigsaw: Use a laminate cutting blade, which has a medium tooth, downstroke blade.
Table Saw: Use a medium tooth carbide blade with upside down teeth.
Step 5: Lock in the Plank: Add spacers to the end of the plank. Tilt the plank into the locking system at a 45 degree angle.
Tip: Before installing, check to make sure the plank fits. You may have to cut more of the plank to fit if your previous cut wasn’t as precise.
Step 6: Use a Pull Bar: Use a pull bar along the side of the plank, pushing the plank down and into the locking system securely Do this along the full plank.
Hint: Depending on the locking system, you may need to connect several planks together and install all at one time. The ends may not be able to connect plank by plank.
Step 7: The Next Plank: Repeat steps 1-4 to measure and cut the next plank for installation.
Step 8: Trim the Track: In most cases, it will be hard to lock your plank in two both locking systems. You can trim the track down with a blade or end of the pull bar to prepare for gluing the planks together.
Step 9: Glue the Planks: After the track is trimmed, apply woodworkers glue on the joint. Position the next plank on an angle to connect into the locking system without lowering the edge onto the glue.
Step 10: Tap Together: Use the pull bar on the side of the plank like previously stated. To secure the first and second plank, use a tapping block to connect the ends of the first and second plank in the last row.
Step 11 – Continue Installing: Continue installing the planks until you are at the end of the row. Now you’re ready to install your moldings!
2. a. Connection Points
1. Two types of connection points are located on each shelter
– Door Split Connections are the connection where the wall fabric
connects to the door
– Wall Split Connection is the connection where the wall fabric
connects to the opposite wall fabric (Blue Hook & Loop)
3. b. Inventory
• Assure that you have all the
components located within the
Vestibule Bag
• Separate the different types of
material (Fabric and Metal)
4. c. Alignment
1. Open the connection point on the completed shelter to
expose the connection point legs
• From the interior, unfasten the buckles and straps located at
the floor connection
• Peel back Insulation and Vinyl Roof panels
• Remove door if necessary
5. c. Alignment Continued…
1. Roughly align the shelters with a
standard eave or base bar
2. Place two bars on the ground at a
perpendicular angle to the
connection point
3. Visually square the two bars so
that they are also parallel to each
other
4. Move partially completed shelter
to align with the alignment bars
on the connection point
6. d. Flooring Installation
1. Lay out the shelter floor and position to
line up with the vestibule floor
2. Match the alignment arrows on both floo
3. Fold the shelter floor under and attach
to the vestibule floor matching up the
Hook and Loop Fastener
4. Continue the connection along the
entire section
7. d. Installation Continued…
5. Fold over the Caution flap to cover
connection point and stretch the floor
so there are no wrinkles
6. Place shelter legs on 2’’ weld along the
floor
7. Create vestibule berm by attaching the
velcro flaps on either end of the
vestibule floor to the perspective
shelter floor
8. e. Vestibule Framework
1. Replace eave bars on the two shelters
with arched eave bars from vestibule
kit
2. Connect the eave bars that were
removed to the outside of the
vestibule connection
3. Connect the center arched bar
9. e. Vestibule Framework Continued…
4. Connect the telescoping base bars
5. Attach Shelter Doors to each side of
the Vestibule
6. Stretch the existing shelter walls to
attach along the side of the door
10. f. Vestibule Roof Panel
1. Drape the roof over center arched bar
and align with center screw on arched
Eave Bar
1. Match up and attach the Hook and
Loop Fastener to the arched eave bar
• Ensure the center weld line
matches with the center arched
eave bar
1. Continue to outsides of section
• Do not attach exterior of vestibule
roof
11. f. Vestibule Roof Panel Continued…
1. Connect the Shelter Insulation and Vinyl
Roof Panels
• Center the two seams, and set back
the Insulation Roof Panel ½ to ¾
inches
1. Pull black strap on vestibule roof to the
inside of the shelter and stretch the
shelter roof panel over top of vestibule
roof and attach Velcro
• Tip: Press on inside of shelter and go
outside of the shelter to ensure the
connection is sealed
12. f. Vestibule Roof Panel Continued…
1. From the outside, continue to attach
the shelter roof panel to outside
edge, taking special care to ensure the
corner of the vestibule is completely
sealed
• We recommend the karate-chop
method
1. Repeat on other shelter