pratibha syntex pvt ltd, internship report by pooja

SDPS/ INTERNSHIP REPORT/2014-2018/8TH
SEM 1
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP REPORT
Pratibha Syntax Pvt Ltd.
Pithampur, District :- Dhar, Madhya Pradesh
Bachelor in Fashion Designing
(Affiliated to SNDT University, Mumbai)
Submitted By:
MS. POOJA KUMARI
Submitted To: Mr. Rikhil Nagpal
Department of Fashion Design
SDPS Women’s College, Indore
March, 2018

SEM 2
ABSTRACT
This document is an account of the study and internship work done
during my 8th
semester, 4th
year 2018 at Pratibha Syntex Pvt. Ltd. as a
part of fulfillment of my course curriculum.
The project was carried under the guidance of Ms. Shikha Agarwal
(Senior Manager - Business Development) and Mr. Amit Sarkar
(Senior Designer) as my internship guides at Pratibha Syntex Pvt. Ltd.

SEM 3
DECLARATION
“This is to certify that, this Project Report titled “Internship report–
Pratibha Syntax Pvt Ltd. “is based on my original internship work,
conducted under the guidance of Mr. Rikhil Nagpal towards part of my
course curriculum, of SDPS Women’s College (Indore).
No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material,
wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged”.
Signature of author/researcher
Ms. Pooja Kumari

SEM 4
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would like to thank Ms. Shikha Agarwal (Senior Manager-Business
Development), and Mr. Amit K Sarkar (Senior Designer), at Pratibha
Syntax Pvt Ltd. for giving me the opportunity to their organization and
making it possible to complete this project successfully. My sincere
thanks to Ms. Vinni Sharma (HR).
I would also like to thank my project guide Mr. Rikhil Nagpal (HOD,
SDPS Women college Indore for his guidance and help whenever
required through this project. for providing the appropriate atmosphere
to work and complete this project successfully.
A note to thanks my families and friends for bearing with me and
providing their full support in the making of this report.

SEM 5
CERTIFICATE

SEM 6
CONTENTS
ABSTRACT……………………………………………………………2
DECLARATION………………………………………………………3
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT…………………………………………….4
CERTIFICATE…………………………………………………….….5
CONTENT……………………………………………………………..6
COMPANY PROFILE………………………………………….…..7-9
RESEARCH WORK………………………………………… ….10-11
DESIGNING DEPARTMENT………………………….………..11-21
PRODUCTION……………………………………………………21-22
LAB-DIP…………………………………………………………...22-24
SPINNING…………………………………………………………25-28
KNITTING………………………………………………………...29-42
TEXTILE FINISHING……………………………………….…..43-49
MERCHANDISING……………………………………………….50-55
VISUAL MERCHANDISING………………………………….…54-57
USE OF WASTE MATERIAL IN INDUSTRY…………………58-59
BIBLIOGRAPHY……………………………………………………..60

SEM 7
Pratibha Syntax Pvt Ltd.
Pithampur, District :- Dhar, M.P.
COMPANY PROFILE
A paradigm shift in the way garments are designed and produced,
reinforcing synergy between people, planet and profit. Pratibha Syntex is a
vertically integrated, sustainability - oriented manufacturer of knitted textile
products. Driven by a strong progressive vision, Pratibha is committed to
creating relationships across the value chain bringing together over 35,000
farmers, 10,000 employees and renowned global apparel brands from over
20 countries.
MORE THAN RESPONSIBLE TEXTILE
RESPONSIVENESS
PEOPLE WELLNESS
ORGANIC VISION
INTEGRITY

SEM 8
INNOVATORS
RADICAL TRANSPARENCY
Responsiveness
Dynamic production systems
Design now and buy now Feet on the ground
Market analytics
Fiber to fashion Vertical integration
European design studio
 High-visibility details are key
 Weave global influences together
innovation
Technology optimization
Fiber forward product engineering
Low impact materials
Salt free dyeing 3D design solutions
Sustainable development
Passion
Fibre forward fashion development
Collaborative holistic solutions
Socially inclusive

SEM 9
Organic
Water saving Recycling
Women empowered
Sustainability
Vision in Action
10,000 people sharing a common belief
100% conversion to sustainable materials
50% reduction of water footprint
50% reduction of carbon footprint
33% reduction in solid waste disposed
Invest 5% profit in people and communities to further the vision
V a s u d h a o r g a n i c
Engaging 33,000 farmers over 160,000 acres
Organic Engaging 30,000 farmers over 130,000 acres to produce
sustainable cotton
Zero Discharge Facility
100% water recycled and reused back in facility

SEM 10
Research work based on WGSN forecast
AW/18-19
Dark Wonder: -
Dark Wonder explores the influence of new technologies on fashion.
Augmented reality is opening the door to acceptance of more unusual
aesthetics, and in a world where we can create our own identities, gender
fluidity and individuality are embraced. This is a trend that draws on
themes of science fiction, escapism, and experimentation with the human
form.
Seasonal statements
 Encrusted surfaces are key
 Soft, tactile designs are important
 Fetish looks are more sophisticated
 Luxury has a dark baroque quality
Human Nature: -
In an era driven by data, Huma Nature explores the urge to trust our
instincts. Natural materials, tactile surfaces, and quilted and intricately
decorated designs gain prominence. Textiles look to global influences and
time-honoured techniques, and layered blankets and salvaged fabrics
create pieces that feel both old and new.
Seasonal statements
 Blanket styling is a key
 Designs focus on utility details
 Old and new styles are combined
 Shamanism and mysticism inspire decoration
World hood: -
WGSN's World hood trend explores an increasingly globalised street
culture, where influences from around the world are shared and remixed
faster than ever. The direction is youthful, expressive and nostalgic.
Vibrant colors and clashing patterns are woven together to
make familiar looks fresh again, and classic items are re
imagined in luxury fabrics.

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Seasonal statements
 Experiment with volume
 Focus on nostalgic items
The Thinker: -
The Thinker explores an emerging era of enlightenment, where ideas and
education are the prized currency. For womenswear, the focus is on
simple, functional designs. The look is preppy, at times awkward, and
retro, harking back to the rebellious intellectualism of the Beatniks.
Comfort dressing is also key, as the boundaries between work and leisure
dissolve.
Seasonal statements
 Tweedy tailoring sees a resurgence
 Styling is quirky and slightly awkward
 'Geek chic' is key
 Comfort dressing becomes more luxe
In Designing designing: -
Types of Samples Required for Completing a
Garments Order:
Serial no. Sample Use
01 Proto/ Development Sample To convert the pattern into actual garment.
02
Size set/ Grade/ Fitting
Sample To fit the styling of the garment.
03
Additional Sample (White
Only) Magazine. Photo
shot) garment on the rack.
All these Samples are made to show the
garment of the rack
04 Contract Seal/ Seal Sample
To gain approval before the bulk
Production.
05 Pre-Production (PP) sample
To gain approval before the bulk
Production.
06 Production Sample To gain approval for shipping the garment._
07 Sales Man Sample (SMS) To gain approval for bulk production
08 Rack Sample To show the garment on the rack.

SEM 12
1. Porto Sample: -
It is the very first sample given into the buyer. It is prepared according to
the buyer’s specification. It is a trial sample prepared on product
development department. Buyer wants to see here that how its look likes
after applying new design on it. Any types of fabric and color can be used
here. For this types of sample 2-3pcs garments should be made where 1pc
for manufacturer and rest of those are sent to the buyer for correction.
Process of proto sample development
Program Received from Buyer
↓
Personal Study on Tech pack
↓
Meeting with Internal Team
↓
Advice for pattern making
↓
Sourcing Raw materials
↓
After Receiving Raw Materials Send to Sample Section
↓
Cutting
↓
Printing/Artwork
↓
Sewing
↓
Washing (If Needed)
↓
Finishing and QC
↓
Final Review
↓
Tagging
↓
Packing/Invoice
↓
Send to Buyer
Program Received from Buyer:
First step of proto sample development is program receive from buyer.

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Buyer gives us a tech pack to develop a proto sample. We collect all the
details from buyer regarding development program.
Personal Stud y on Tech Pack
After receiving program we have to study on it. Because of to check
whether we are capable to develop a proto sample, to check how much
requirement of buyer and how much we have.
Meeting with Internal Team
After case study on tech pack then arrange a meeting with internal team
who involved in this development program. In this meeting to discussed
how much important this program and what is the dead line also
discussed we are capable or not for this program.
Advice for pattern Making
After completing a meeting now advice a team to make a pattern for
program.
Sourcing Raw materials
According to buyer requirement source raw materials from the supplier.
For sourcing we have to send mail to supplier with attaching all the
details. Such as brand name, style no, color, fabrication details, fabric
description etc.
After Receiving Raw Materials Send to Sample Section
After receiving raw materials send to sample section for make a proto
sample. It is responsibility of merchandiser to keep communication with
sample section. So that, the sample make in time and better quality.
Cutting
Now fabric send to cutting section for cut the fabric according to pattern.
Cutting is one of the major process in proto sample development
program.
Printing/Artwork
If buyer has any requirement of printing or artwork then its place on right
place. This process is called artwork placement.
Sewing
All the parts of a garment are joined here to make a complete garment.
Sewing process is done by manually.
Washing (If Needed)

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If buyer wants any washing in sample we have to apply it.
Finishing and QC
After washing we will get a complete garment which is treated with
steam ironing & also several finishing processes are done for example
extra loose thread cutting etc.
Tagging
Tagging is very important in proto sample development program because
if we do not keep tagging against each style it is possible to mix with
other style.
Packing/Invoice
According to buyer requirement packing all the garments.
Send to Buyer
After completing all the process now send the sample to buyer and
waiting for approval.
Theme according to Research Work
Project which is handle by me
STUDIOUS’ Style ORGANICLuxury

SEM 15
Texture development, in photoshop
sketch
Final garment sample

SEM 16
Another Project on Hero Gear

SEM 17
C&A

SEM 18
2. Fit sample: -
After approving proto sample, fit sample should be made by following
buyer provided measurement sheet. It can be made by using similar fabric,
nearer GSM and any color. In Fit sample, stitching and measurement
must be 100% accurate. Here fabrication and color can be changed but no
compromise on stitching and measurement. 2-3 garments are used in fit
sample where 1pc kept by the manufacturer and rest of those are sent to
the buyer.
3. Size set sample: -
After approving fit sample, based on the patterns of approved sample, all
the other sizes samples should be graded here and make pattern for
different sizes. After that, make 2-3pcs sample for each size of that order.
Manufacturer keep 1pc sample for himself and send 1pc or 2pc samples
to the buyer for cutting approval. Here, it should be noted that, without
the size set sample approval, cutting should not be started.
Counter sample: -
This type of sample is based on the comments received from the buyer.
For this sample, 2-3pcs garments are required.
Salesman sample (SMS): -
Salesman sample is used by sales team of buyer to enhance the sales of
any garment. Buyer sends the sample by salesman in the market to
receive market feedback from the customers. It is done approximately
200-500pcs depending on the customers and season. The main objects of
SMS sample are to check market, feedback, Buyer’s design etc.
Pre-production sample (PPS): -
P.P sample should be made in actual production line by maintaining all
actual of an order specification. It is the main stage of a garments order
where any sample may be approved or rejected. If the sample will
approve then can go for the rest of the process of that order. But if
rejected then there will be the revision of previous processes. PPC
(Planning production and control) department is also involved in this
stage. Ones PPC department is involved then there’s no way for accepting
of any style change. It is the very critical stage than other’s stage. Extra
care must be needed here to confirm an order correctly.
Top of production sample (TOP): -

SEM 19
During running an order in production line, a few samples sent to the
buyer or buyers Q, C as TOP sample. TOP sample has a great importance
in achieving certification of whole order. If TOP sample failed to approve
its required quality then whole order will be resumed.
Shipment sample: -
Shipment sample is needed after completing final inspection, when goods
are ready for the shipment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will
receive down to Q.C, folding, tagging, bagging, labelling and final
packaging included.
Working Process of Sample Section in
Garments Industry: -
Sample: -
Sample is the prototype or model of the garment, upon what the buyer
can decide on how and whether to confirm the order or not.
Sampling Process Flow Chart:

SEM 20
Description of the Sampling Processes: -
1. Tech Pack Receiving: This is the first stage of the sampling processes.
In this stage Tech Pack or the Technical pack is received from the buyer,
via merchandiser. Tech pack contains all the specifications to produce a
garment.
2. CAD & Pattern Making: In this stage pattern is made through CAD.
Sometimes pattern is made manually, but CAD is more popular and
easy, Computer-aided design (CAD) is the use of computer Technology
for the design of objects, real or virtual. The design of geometric models
for object shapes is often called computer-aided geometric design
(CAGD). However, CAD often involves more than just shapes. As in the
manual drafting of Technical and engineering drawings, the output of
CAD often must convey also symbolic information such as materials,
processes, dimensions, and tolerances, according to application-specific
conventions. CAD may be used to design curves and figures in two-
dimensional ("21") space; or curves, surfaces, or solids in three-
dimensional ("3D") objects. Viyellatex pattern section uses Optitex CAD
software for pattern making.
3. Sample Making: Sample making is the goal of this department. After
making the pattern, the sample is made by using the pattern set.
4. Size Setting: After making the sample, size is set according to the
Tech Pack. If there is any fault, the sample is redone.
5. Pre Production (PP) Meeting: After the buyer has inspected the
sample, a preproduction meeting is called. In this meeting buyer or his
agent, merchandiser, sample manager, all remain present. They decide on
how to and when to start the production. If the decision Okayed, the
sample is ready to go for final production.
6. Grading of Sample: After finalizing the sample. Grading is done.
There may be several grades of a single design. The grading is done to
separate the samples and patterns from each other’s
7. Marker: After grading the samples. The design is inputted into the
marker software. This software specifies how to set the pattern in the
actual fabric. By using the marker software efficiently, fabric can be

SEM 21
saved. Viyellatex uses Gerber Garment Technology (GGT) for marker
making.
8. Cutting: After making the marker the pattern is delivered to the
cutting unit and the fabric is cut for final production.
Sample Procedure:
There are some standard sample procedures after pattern making, they are
as follows: Sourcing the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment
↓
Cutting (For Sample Only)
↓
Embellishment
↓
Sewing
↓
Iron
↓
Quality Control
↓
Precheck Form
↓
Buyer QC
↓
Forwarding from the Merchandiser
↓
Sending Sample to the Buyer
Production
Production Planning: -
A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed
within the required time. So planning has its own importance which is
intolerable. "Planning" gives a scheduled task and 'control' completes it
successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy task.
Flowchart of production planning is given below.

SEM 22
Production Planning
Process Production Planning
Marketing
↓
Lab dip
↓
Lab dip approval
↓
Sample production
↓
Sample approval & Order for bulk production
↓
Knitting
↓
Sample production according to buyer recommendation
↓
Bulk knitting production
↓
Batching
↓
Pre-treatment
↓
Dyeing
↓
Finishing
↓
Packing
↓

SEM 23
RFD
↓
Garment section
Lab dip: -
At first dyeing is performed in dyeing lab and then starting for bulk
production. Dyeing lab work is called lab dip development. A lab dip is a
swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. Lab dip plays an
important role in dyeing process. Bulk dyeing process completely
depends on the lab dip. In the lab, lab dip or sample is developed by the
textile engineer or technician. Flowchart of lab dip is given below.
Process of lab dip
Receiving standard swatch from the buyer
↓
Determination of sample’s possible color combination by the help of
Spectrophotometer or manually
↓
Dispersion by autodoser
↓
Trial dyeing of first recipe
↓
Unload
↓
Normal wash
↓
Hot wash with detergent
↓
Oven drying
↓
Ironing
↓
Shade matching in light box ( If Ok then send to buyer for approval)
↓
If not ok
↓
First correction takes from Spectrophotometer or manually
↓
Dispersion by autodoser
↓
↓

SEM 24
Unload
↓
Normal wash
↓
↓
Oven drying
↓
Ironing
↓
Shade matching in light box ( If Ok then send to buyer for approval)
↓
If not ok
↓
Second correction takes from Spectrophotometer or manually
↓
Dispersion by auto dozer
↓
↓
Unload
↓
Normal wash
↓
↓
finishing
↓
Hydro
↓
Drying
↓
Compare with standard swatch
↓
If ok
↓
Send for buyer’s approval
↓
Bulk production by considering the buyer’s approved sample as standard

SEM 25
Spinning: -
Yarn finishing is a very important task for spinners. Because buyers are
not interested to buy unfinished/faulty yarn. After getting yarn from ring
frame has many faults like slubs, neps, knots, hairy etc. For reducing yarn
fault auto cone winding machine is used. Which gives right weight and
shape of yarn in cone package. All tasks are done in spinning finishing
section. So spinning finishing section has important role in yarn
manufacturing process. Now I’m giving flowchart of spinning finishing
section.
Yarn finishing process (Heat setting)
Flow Chart of Spinning Finishing Section
Yarn gets with cop package from ring frame
↓
Winding by auto coner
↓
Checking under ultraviolet light
↓
Yarn conditioning by heat setting
↓
Weight determination
↓
Packing
↓
Delivery to buyer

SEM 26
First step of
cotton yarn
production
For opening,
cleaning and dust
removal
Blending, and
prepared for
carding process
BLOW ROOM

SEM 27
CARDING
Function:-
To improve
evenness of the
sliver
To arrange fiber
in parallel
Blending
Dust removal
DRAWING

SEM 28
COMBING
ROVING
SPINNING

SEM 29
Knitting: -
Knitting is one kind of fabric manufacturing process. This type of fabric
is produced by forming loop. The Knitting Manager is responsible for
production of knitting section. In this article I will give a production
flowchart of knitting department in fabric manufacturing industry. It
starts from collecting order from buyer and will end by delivering the
product in dyeing unit.
Knitted fabric structure
All weft knitted fabric structures are classified into four basic groups
according to the arrangement of loops in their courses and wales. Four
primary structures plain, rib, interlock and purl are the base structures
from which all weft knitted fabrics are derived. A short introduction of
four primary structures are given below.
Weft knitted fabric structures

SEM 30
Plain structure:
The simplest and most basic structure is the “plain knit” which is also
called “single knit”. Plain is a knit structure family, which is produced by
the needles of only one set of needle with all the loops intermeshed in the
same direction. Although the plain knit family encompasses a great
number of structures all produced on a single needle bed.
Rib Structure:
Rib, also called “Double-knit” is the second family of knit structures. Rib
requires two sets of needles operating in between each other so that wales
of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on each side of the
fabric. Many types of rib structures can be produced according to the
arrangement of active needles in the front and back needle beds.
Interlock structure:
The interlock structure is a variant of the rib form in which two threads
are alternately knitted by the opposite needles so that interlocking occurs.
Interlock is an interlocking of two 1 x 1 rib structures in such a way that
the face wale of fabric “1” is directly in front of the 'reverse wale' of the
rib fabric “2”.
Purl structure:
Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures. In the purl fabric
structure, loops are drawn to opposite sides of the fabric, which, on both
sides, has the appearance of the back of a plain stitch fabric.
Comparison between basic structures of weft knitted fabric:
In the table we have shown plain, rib, interlock and purl fabric structures.
Properties Plain Rib Interlock Purl
Appearance Different on face
& back; V-
shapes on face,
arcs on back
Same on both
sides, like back
of plain
Same on both
sides like face
of plain
Same on
both sides,
like back of
plain
UN roving Either end Only from end
knitted last
Only from end
knitted last
Either end
Curling Tendency to curl No tendency to No tendency to No

SEM 31
curl curl tendency to
curl
Thickness &
warmth
Thicker &
warmer than
plain woven
made from same
yarn
Much thicker &
warmer than
plain
Very much
thicker &
warmer than
plain
Very much
thicker &
warmer
than plain
Extensibility
Lengthwise
Widthwise
Area
Moderate (10-
20%)
High (30-5-%)
Moderate-High
Moderate
Very high (50-
100%)
High
Moderate
Moderate
Moderate
Very high
High
Very high
End-uses
Basic T-shirt
(men's and
ladies), Ladies
stockings, fine
cardigans,
dresses, base
fabric for
coating, fully
fashioned knit
wear etc.
Socks, cuffs,
waistbands,
collars,
underwear,
knitwear.
Underwear,
shirts, suits,
sportswear,
trouser suits,
dresses.
Children’s
clothing,
knitwear,
thick and
heavy
outerwear.
Production Flowchart of Knitting Section
Executive director takes order from Buyer
↓
Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production
↓
Knitting manager gets production order sheet
↓
Senior Production Officer ordered by K.M. and orders Production officer
and Technical in-charge.
↓
Production officer fixes up stitch length and GSM with mechanical fitter.
↓
Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and Attention.
↓
Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault.

SEM 32
↓
Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK.
↓
Fabric roll is checked by a troop of inspectors in inspection unit and
weighted.
↓
Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.
Knitted Fabric Defects and Remedies
Faults or defects in knitting production can be caused in different ways
and quite a few of them cannot be related to just one cause. The following
explanations are expected to be helpful in trying to locate the causes of
these faults easier.
Reasons of fabric defects:
 Yarn manufacturing defects
 Fabric manufacturing defects
 Fabric processing faults or defects. Such as dyeing faults,
printing faults or finishing faults.
Sources of fabric faults:
The sources of faults could be:
 Faults in yarn and the yarn package
 Yarn feeding and yarn feed regulator
 Machine setting and pattern defects
 Machine maintenance
 Climatic conditions in the knitting plant
List of Knitting Faults Found in Knitted Fabric:
Knitted fabric faults are very different in nature and appearance and are
often superimposed. The following knitted fabric defects are found in
knitted fabric production.
1. Broken ends, holes or cracks
2. Drop stitch
3. Cloth fall-out or pressed-off stitches
4. Snagging or snags
5. Tuck or double loop or stitches
6. Bunching-up

SEM 33
7. Vertical stripes
8. Horizontal stripes
9. Soil stripes
10. Color fly or color tinges
11. Distorted stitches or deformed or tilted loops
1. Broken ends, holes or cracks:
Holes are the result of cracks or yarn breakages. During stitch formation
the yarn had already broken in the region of theneedle hook. Depending
on the knitted structure, yarn count, machine gauge and course density,
the holes have different sizes. This size can therefore only be estimated if
the comparable final appearance of a comparable fabric is known.
Possible causes:
a) Yarn parameters
 High yarn irregularity
 Incorrect yarn input tension setting, yarn running-intention is too
high
 Poorly lubricated yarns
 Weak places in yarn, which break during stitch formation
 Knots, slubs etc.
 Yarn is too dry.
b) If the yarn is trapped between the cheek taper and the closing latch
 Yarn damage
c) Too small stitches
 Difficulty in casting-off of the stitches
d) Relation between cylinder and dial loop not correct; yarn feeder badly
set; defective knitting elements.
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to with stand the stretch as well
as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Air humidification.
 Guide blowing.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.

SEM 34
 Yarn regularity control.
 Precise yarn - guide resetting.
 Knot should be given properly.
 Use of protective filter creel.
2. Drop stitches:
These are the result of a defective needle. They also occur when a yarn is
not properly fed during stitch formation, i.e., not properly laid-in the
needle hooks. These are the unlinked knitted loops.
Drop stitch
Possible causes:
a) In accurate insertion of the yarn into the needle hook;
 Closed latch – a wale of dropped stitches will be produced until
the latch is opened either by the operator or due to machine vibration.
b) Broken needle hook;
c) Due to high yarn twist and low fabric take-down-tension the knitted
loop could fall out of the hook;
d) Improper setting of the yarn feed angle i.e. badly set yarn feeder
 The yarn is not caught by the needle hook, Example-low yarn
tension and high yarn vibrations
e) Yarn feeder wrongly threaded-in;
f) Dial loop length not properly related to cylinder loop length; the loop
jumps out of the needle hook;
g) Bad take-up;

SEM 35
h) Very dry material;
i) Insufficient yarn tension.
Remedies:
 Correct take-up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Ensure uniform yarn tension on all the feeders with a Tension
Meter.
 Rate of yarn feed should be strictly regulated as per the required
Stitch Length.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 The fabric tube should be just like a fully inflated balloon, not
too tight or too slack.
 Needle should be straight & well.
 The yarn being used should have no imperfections like; Slubs,
Neps & big knots etc
 The gap between the Cylinder & the Dial should be correctly
adjusted as per the knitted loop size.
3. Cloth fall-out or Pressed-off stitches:
It is an area consisting of drop stitches lying side by side. They can occur
either when a yarn is laid-out or when it breaks without any immediate
connection. Cloth fall-out can occur after a drop stitch especially when an
empty needle with closed latch runs into the yarn feeder and removes the
yarn out of the hooks of the following needles.
Cloth fall-out or Pressed-off stitches
Possible causes:
 Yarn breaks before the yarn feeder
 Yarn package winding faults, poor package buildup;
 Fibre fly block the yarn guides, feeders etc.

SEM 36
Remedies:
 Needle detectors, should be set precisely, to detect the closed
needles & prevent the fabric tube from completely pressing off.
 Make sure all the latches of needle are closed with feeding yarn
after a drop stitch.
 Proper yarn tension should be maintained, on all the feeders.
4. Needle marks or Vertical stripes:
Vertical stripes can be observed as longitudinal gaps in the fabric. The
space between adjacent wales is irregular and the closed appearance of
the fabric is broken up in an unsightly manner. Vertical stripes and gaps
in the fabric are often the result of a meager setting, i.e., the yarn count
selected is too fine for the machine gauge or the stitch size (course
density) is not correct. Needles are bent, damaged, do not move
uniformly smooth, come from different suppliers or are differently
constructed.
Vertical stripes
Possible causes:
 Twisted or bent needle hooks;
 Stiff latches and needles;
 Incorrect closing of the hook by the latch;
 Heavily running needles;
 Damaged dial and cylinder;
 Damaged needle latch and needle hooks;
 Damages on other knitting elements.
Remedies:
 Yarn count should be selected as machine gauge.
 Stitch size should be correct.
 Selection of needle properly.
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch

SEM 37
5. Horizontal Stripes:
These are caused by unevenness in the courses; they traverse horizontally
and repeat themselves regularly or irregularly.
Horizontal Stripes
Possible causes:
 Deflector in dial cam brought into tuck position.
 Deflector not completely switched off. Needle can still grip the
yarn and forms a tuck loop.
 Yarn feeder badly set.
 Differences in the yarn running-intension.
 Couliering not constant at all feeders.
 Jerky impulse from fabric take-up.
Remedies:
 The machine must be mounted horizontally.
 Needle dial & cylinder must be exactly centered towards one
another.
 Replace that bobbin.
 Yarn tension & stitch should be controlled uniformly.
 Yarns of same lot should be used.
 Check cams positioning
6. Barriness
Barriness defect appears in the knitted fabric in the form of horizontal
stripes of uniform or variable width. Actually barre'ness is the periodic
lateral irregularities

SEM 38
Barriness
A. Structural Barre'ness:
Possible causes:
 Individual yarns differ with respect to count, properties or
structure;
 Different course lengths in feeders.
B. Colour Barre'ness:
Possible causes:
 Knitting of yarns which differ in colour;
 Yarns dye differently during piece dyeing.
C. Shadow Barre'ness:
Possible causes:
 Shadow like changes in the appearance of the fabric. Very
difficult to detect and done by reflected light.
Remedies:
 Ensure uniform Yarn Tension on all the feeders.
 Ensure that the hardness of, all the yarn packages, is uniform,
using a hardness tester.
 The average Count variation in the lot, should not be more than +
0.3
 Ensure that the yarn being used for Knitting is of the same Lot /
Merge no.
7. Bunching-up or Thick and Thin Places:
Visible knots in the fabric are referred to as bunching up. They appear as
beads and turn up irregularly in the fabric. Can build up resulting in a

SEM 39
‘cloudy’ appearance. More irregular the yarn, more pronounced is the
‘cloudy’ appearance.
Bunching-up
Possible causes:
 Thick and thin places in the yarn;
 Fabric take-up too weak.
Remedies:
 Specify the quality parameters of the yarns to be used for
production to the yarn supplier.
 Preventing count or lot mixing.
 Maintaining uniform yarn tension..
 Fabric take-up should function properly.
8. Snagging:
Snags mainly occur while processing filament yarns. The tendency towards snagging
can be reduced by using yarns with a coarser single filament count, lesser crimp
elasticity and higher twist.
Snagging
Causes:
During knitting all mechanical influences, caused by rough surfaces on
yarn guide elements, yarn feeders, needles, fabric take-up, etc. have to be
avoided. Even after knitting some snags can appear especially during
fabric setting, if its storage and further processing has not been
undertaken carefully.

SEM 40
Remedies:
 Inspect & rectify the fabric contact points on all the machines
(Soft Flow Dyeing, Tumble Dryer & Centrifuge etc), on which
snagging is taking place.
 Using yarn with a coarser single filament count, lesser crimp
elasticity and higher twist.
 During knitting on mechanical influences, caused by rough
surfaces on yarn guide elements, yarn feeders, needles, fabric take-up
etc.
9. Tuck or Double stitches:
These occur due to badly knitted or non-knitted loops. They are
unintentional tuck loops or floats, also showing up as thick places or
small beads in the fabric. At first instance they may also appear as a
shadow when the fabric is observed against light.
Possible causes:
 Fabric take-up is too weak, i.e., fabric take-up is insufficient,
must be re adjusted, has a one sided drag on the fabric or is not
continuous.
 The dial is set too high. The dial needles do not support the fabric,
which is thus pulled up.
 The course density or couliering is not set correctly.
 The loops are too tight, e.g. with interlock. These loops are not
removed from the needles.
Remedies:
 Fabric take-up must be adjusted.
 The coarse density must be set correctly.
10. Soil stripe:
Soil stripes can appear both in the direction of wales as well as courses.
Soil stripes in the direction of the wales are solely caused by the knitting
machine. In most cases they are so called needle stripes; they occur when
individual needles have been replaced or when the working of mechanical
or automatic oiling or greasing devices is defective.
Stripes or soiled places in the direction of the courses were already
present usually in the yarn, if not caused by a standing course as a result

SEM 41
of machine stoppage.
Causes:
 Defective oiling or greasing.
 Sudden machine stoppage.
 At the time of defective needle replacing.
Remedies:
 Consciously oiling or greasing.
 Being aware of needle changing.
11. Colour Fly:
Colour fIy consists of single fibres, bunches of fibres or yarn pieces in
varying colours. It additionally sticks on the yarn or is knitted into the
fabric and is very difficult to remove.
Causes:
 Hairs with natural dark color present in raw wool.
 Fly coming from various processing stages during spinning.
Remedies:
 Should be careful of fly coming at the time of spinning.
 Certain of hairs with natural dark color are unavoidable & must
be tolerated.
Batching: -
Batch section is a preparatory stage of dyeing. It is the receiving section
of grey fabric and sending section of grey fabric to the dyeing section
which will dye. Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which
should be dyed and processed for a lot of a order.
Process of fabric Batching
Receive batch card from Grey In-charge
↓
Make the priority as per dyeing plan
↓
Take one specific Batch card.
↓

SEM 42
Read the Batch Card for own understanding
↓
Check the availability of fabric
↓
Take required quantity of body fabric from ware-house.
↓
Make required no. of Rope maintaining equal length.
↓
Take collar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight.
↓
Distribute the collar/cuff or Rib in each rope equally unsure equal length
↓
Stitch the fabric
↓
Write down the weight against roll no. in the back side of the Batch
Card.
↓
Write the total weight in Batch card
↓
Put signature & date.
↓
Fill up the production report form.
Knit dyeing:-
Knit dyeing is a technique of dyeing the knitted fabrics. The dyeing of
knitted fabrics occurs in the exhaust method or in batch-wise process.
Knit dyeing process is near similar to yarn dyeing process but there is
some difference in quality measurement. Generally, all types of single
jersey, double jersey and their derivatives are dyed by different way.
Flowchart of knit fabric dyeing describe shortly.
Process of Knit Fabric Dyeing:
Grey fabric inspection
↓
Batching
↓
Fabric turning
↓
Loading to the m/c

SEM 43
↓
Pre-treatment (Scouring & Bleaching)
↓
Dyeing
↓
Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting & Calendaring
↓
Final inspection & packing
Textile Finishing: -
The treatment applied to the textile goods after dyeing and printing
process is normally called finishing process. Textile Finishing is called
the beautification process of textile. It is a process used in manufacturing
of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to impart the required functional
properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to
different type of physical and chemical treatments.
Textile finishing flow chart is different for two types of fabric. One flow
chart for open fabric and another for tube fabric.
Process of Textile Finishing (Open Fabric)
Slitting
↓
Stentering
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery

SEM 44
process of Textile Finishing (Tube Fabric)
Dewatering
↓
Drying
↓
Compacting
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Bailing
↓
Delivery
Apparel manufacturing: -
Garment is a basic need of human being. It's manufacturing process is
complicated. Garment/Apparel manufacturing processing depends on
some steps and techniques. It starts from order receiving and will be
ending to dispatching shipment of the finished garments. A process flow
chart helps to understand how raw materials are moved from one process
to another process until raw materials are transformed into the desired
product (garments).
Process of Garment Manufacturing
Design/sketch
↓
Basic block
↓
Working pattern
↓
Sample making
↓
Basic manufacturing difference
↓
Approved sample
↓
Costing

SEM 45
↓
Production pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker making
↓
Fabric spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting or bundling
↓
Sewing
↓
Ironing and finishing
↓
Final inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Cartooning
↓
Send to buyer
Manufacturing sequence: -
Operation Requirements Method
01. Design/sketch
It is given by buyers to
manufacturers containing
sketches including
measurements of the style Manual/computerized
02. Basic block Without any allowance Manual/computerized
03. Working pattern
Assimilating of diagram of net
dimension on paper each and
individual part which is called
pattern and when we move with
it throughout the whole
manufacturing processes. We
term it working pattern. Manual/computerized

SEM 46
04. Sample making
After getting all the speech, the
sample is made and sent to the
buyers for approval to rectify
the faults. Manual
05. Basic
manufacturing
difference
The critical path is identified i.e
the problem during the several
operations. Manual
06. Approved sample
After rectifying the faults,
sample is again sent to buyers.
If it is ok, then it is called
approved sample. Manual
O7. Costing
 Fabric required
 Making charge
 Trimmings
 Profits Manual
08. Production
pattern
Add allowance with net
dimension. Manual/computerized
09. Grading
It is done according to different
size. Manual/computerized
10. Marker making
Maker is a thin paper which
contains all the components of
all sizes of a particular style. Manual/computerized
11. Fabric spreading Fabric is spreaded in lay form. Manual/computerized
12. Cutting
To cut fabric according to the
dimension by special types of
cutter. Manual/computerized
13. Sorting or
bundling
Sorting out the component
according to size and for each
size make individual bundle. Manual
14. Sewing
Sewing is done by different
types of machines by the
operation. Quality inspection is
also done in that time Manual
15. Ironing and
finishing
Garments are treated by steam.
Also, several finishing
processes are done for example
extra loose thread cutting. Manual
16. Final inspection
Should meet specs given by
buyer. Manual
17. Packing Poly packing. Manual

SEM 47
Textile Printing: -
Most of the garments we wear are decorated with attractive prints.
Printing is done to make garments attractive & fashionable. Printing is a
technique of reproducing text, images, design, pattern or motif using a
master form. Textile Printing is the process of applying colored patterns
& designs to decorate surface of fabric.
Needed to complete process of Textile Printing: -
1. Pre-treatment of fabric for printing.
2. Printing paste making by using printing ingredients.
3. Making print impression on fabric using printing techniques.
4. Curing or drying of fabric / print.
5. After process treatment or neutralization (soaping, washing if
required).
Direct Printing: - It is the most common textile printing style. Print
paste is transferred directly on fabric to produce a pattern. Dyestuffs,
thickeners, amount of water are dissolved to prepare printing paste. Wood
block, copper roller & screens are examples for Direct Printing.
Discharge Printing : - It’s technically a dyeing method used to
produce a pattern on fabric. The fabric is dyed & then a bleaching agent
is used to remove or discharge the color from specific area to create a
desired pattern on cloth. Mostly applied on dark ground of fabric where
we need a lighter print. It works well on natural fiber like cotton.
Resist Printing: - A resist paste is painted on fabric and then the
fabric is dyed. The dye affects only those parts that are not covered by the
resist paste. After dyeing, the resist paste is removed leaving a pattern on
18. Cartooning
After packing the garments are
placed in a hard paper box. for
export so as to minimize
damage. The cartoons contain
all the information over the box
according to buyer specs. Manual
19. Send to buyer
If everything is ok, it is sent to
the buyer. Manual

SEM 48
a dark background. Wax, chemical, paper stencil or mechanism is applied
to fabric to resist color while dyeing fabric. There are two types of Resist
Printing are mostly used.
Roller Printing:- It is also called Cylinder Print or Machine print.
Engraved copper cylinder or roller is used to print cloth by power of
electricity.
Stencil Printing: - The design is firstly cut in paperboard, wood or
metal through which color is applied on the fabric. This print is limited in
use due to high cost.
Screen Printing: - It is done either with flat or cylindrical screens
made of silk, polyester, nylon or metal. The printing paste is poured on
the screen and forced through its unblocked areas onto the cloth. It is
known as Flat Screen Printing or Rotary Screen Printing according to
the types of the screen used.
Heat Printing: - This is also known as Heat Transfer Printing. The
design on a paper is transferred to a fabric by vaporization. In heat
transfer printing, a design is firstly printed on a special release paper.
Then the printed image is placed on the cloth. After being cooled, the
release paper is pulled out and the image will be transferred to the cloth.
We need consider three key factors during Heat Printing.
1. Time (Within 13 seconds in common)
2. Temperature (Commonly 190ºC)
3. Pressure (at least 60 pounds / lbs)
Blotch Printing: - It is a direct printing technique where the
background color and the design are both printed on a white fabric. Any
of the methods like block, roller or screen may be used.
Spray Printing: - Designs may be painted either by hand or with
assistance of machines. Airbrushing devices are used which blow or
spray color on the cloth.
Digital Textile Printing: - This is also known as Direct-to-
Garment Printing, DTG Printing or Digital Garment Printing. This is a
technology to print your designs on fabric directly from your computer.
This is a modified ink jet technology.

SEM 49
Metallic Print: - Printing paste containing metallic powders is used
to produce such print. Copper, bronze and aluminium powders are usually
used. Color of the print depends on the metal powder used in the print
paste. For example:
 Copper powder is used for copper colored print
 Bronze powder is used for gold colored print
 Aluminium powder is used for silver colored print
Rubber Print: - Rubber is used as a textile ink for printing.
Plastisol Print: - Plastisol is used as a textile ink for printing.
Transfer Print:- It is also called Sticker Print. The plastisol print is
already painted on paper & will be transferred onto cloth in the fusing
process.
Foil Print: -The printing process is similar to Transfer Print. Foil
papers are transferred onto cloth in the fusing process.
Glitter Print: - Glitter Print brings sparkle to fabric because glitter
powder is used. Glitter Powder is generally PET (polyethylene
terephthalate) with size of 1/8" to 1/256". It is found into square and
hexagon shape.
Burnout Print:- Acid type chemicals are used instead of color. This
is applied only on blended fabrics like PC & CVC. Cotton or other
cellulosic fiber in fabric is burned out or destroyed by strong mineral
acids.
Embroidery: -
Embroidery is a technique of decorating fabric or other materials with
needle and thread or yarn. In garments industry it is a common task for
decorating fabric. Normally embroidery is done as buyer requirements.
Embroidery is done with hand. But in case of bulk production and for
complicated design computerized embroidery machine is used.
Embroidery is most often used on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts,
denim, stockings, and golf shirts. Flowchart of embroidery is given below.
Flow Chart of Embroidery in Garments Industry
Art work from buyer

SEM 50
↓
Input to ES-65(Software)
↓
Design analysis
↓
Send to buyer
↓
Recommendation & correction from buyer
↓
Sample prepare
↓
Send to buyer
↓
If approved then for bulk production
Merchandising
Merchandiser: -
Those are working in the factory they need to prepare production file.
This is an important task for him to start production. But we see in many
of the factory merchandiser fails to distribute correct production file &
finally face lots of difficulties. Sometime this brings big disaster for the
order & then happens a big loss. Just a simple example – If correct
measurement spec is not given in the production file or give wrong
sample then no one can stop the disaster. So, need careful production file
making & check everything carefully.
Production file generally require below items
1. Latest sample comments:
Always need to be very careful to give updated sample comments.
Suppose buyer gave pp comments & later they added new comments and
ask to follow it in production. But if merchandise is not aware enough to
give additional comments in the file then production people may not
follow this instruction. Here merchandiser is the only one person who
knows the new instruction because he is in the communication with the
buyer.
2. Size spec:

SEM 51
Many time it was seen final size spec is not provided by mistake & then
problem happen. So, merchandiser should have to be careful for correct
size spec. He should have to check again & again to be confirming that
correct size spec is given.
3. Tech pack:
Tech pack is the details for product. So, need to be careful for latest tech
pack when he is preparing production file. Because it was seen that buyer
changed the tech pack after pp sample & asked to follow the same in
production but if production people follow blindly the PP sample then
mistake will happen.
4. How to measure:
This is also important as the size spec because if how to measure is not
provided then people in production will do wrong. All the customers do
not provide how to measure with the tech pack but has a general
instruction. So, this is to be ensuring that how to measure is given with
updated one.
5. Fabric details & ref of all kind of fabric:
Details of fabrication are important to provide. If the garment has
different fabrication with different color or quality then needed to add
them with production file. Most importantly fabric swatch from bulk has
to give so that people in production will not be confused.
6. Po sheet:
Order sheet is the most important document for order execution. Some
time we see buyer updated order sheet with new delivery date if asked for
extension. But merchandiser if not careful to check the quantity along
with size ratio then big mistake may wait later. Because some time buyer
changes the quantity or ratio without any prior notice. So, production file
should be added with correct order sheet.
7. Print / embroidery art work:
Art work should be added with size grading for print & embroidery. If
possible color art work is more helpful for color understanding.
8. Test report:
Garment test report is needed to add in the production file for shrinkage
& other problem. If test is not required from buyer then factory should
have to complete in-house test on garment & keep it in the production
file.

SEM 52
9. Barcode sheet if require:
Readable barcode sticker is important to add in the file with all the
reference number. If EN code is different for all colours & sizes then all
the reference number should have to give.
10. Trim card:
Complete trim card is a short detail of the product. If trim card is not
complete for some items then carefully mention what item is not given.
Generally trim card is to provide for – Garment store, Garment sewing
section & Garment finishing.
11. PP sample:
If possible color wise PP sample must provide with the production file.
Any change if require in the production which is missing in the pp sample
then merchandiser has to write the comments on the sample what is
needed to add or remove.
Finally mark the section where to distribute paper document from
production file. Generally below sections require paper document from
production file.
 Knitting section
 Dyeing section
 Dyeing finishing
 Cutting section
 Garment sewing section
 Garment store
 Garment finishing
Garments Sample: -
Sample is the prototype or model of the garment. It is a model of what the
bulk production is going to be done. Making a sample is an essential first
step for each item. Besides, garment sample making is one of the most
important processes in garments industry because it will make the buyers
to get attractiveness towards the industry. Generally, buyers place the
order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples. So, it has
great importance. This important task is done by a skilful sample man
in apparel industry.
Types of Garment Sample: -
There are various types of garment sample which are made for
completing an order. In garments industry samples are divided by two

SEM 53
ways. They are development samples and production samples. And they
have sub categories.
A. Development samples:
1. Proto sample/Design sample,
2. Fit sample,
3. Photo shoot sample
4. Mock up sample
5. Size set sample,
6. Salesman sample (SMS),
7. Approval sample
8. Pre-production sample (PPS),
B. Production samples:
1. Top over production sample (TOP)/ Online sample,
2. Shipment sample.
Process of sample making in merchandising
Garments Design or Sketch ( Manually or Computerized )
↓
Basic Block ( Manually or Computerized )
↓
Working Pattern ( By Machine )
↓
Fabric cutting
↓
Print/ Embroidery (If required)
↓
Sewing
↓
Finishing
↓
Sample Garments ( Manually )
↓
Problem of Production or Production Related Matter
↓
Costing............................................↓..................................Send to Buyer
↓

SEM 54
Approved Sample
↓
Production Pattern ( By Hand or Computer )
Visual merchandising: -
Visual merchandising generally create a plan to their creative skills for
displaying fashion products by the use of visual presentation, marketing
and also creating different promotional activities to communicate and
merchandise with the target customers.
In the fashion industry, visual or display merchandising experts mainly
helps to increase sales for retail shop and to catch the buyer’s attention by
the use of different ideas like promotional images, seasonal themes,
special occasion to base the upcoming marketing and window display
activities around.
How to become a visual merchandiser:
To become a visual and display merchandiser and you will want to apply
to job in a fashion retail position, some qualifications and skills are must
be needed. These are in below:
 Educational background must be needed
 Certificate or Diploma course in Fashion Retail (Visual
Merchandising and promotional design),
 Foundation degrees in display or design, fashion buying and
merchandising
 Some other degree subjects that are included in this job career:
 Fashion design;
 Fine art;
 Interior design;
 Surface pattern design;
 Textiles;
 3D design.
DIY window display: -

SEM 55
Uses materials in this creation
 News paper for back ground
 Fevicol
 Paint Brush
 Some Christmas decoration materials
 Waste wood (props developed by carpenter according
requirements)
 Brown paper
 Mannequins (male, female)
 Fabric for draped garment (draping by Pooja Kumari)
 Some stitched garment
 Lights
 Some Cotton fiber for snow effect
Dark wonder

SEM 56
Christmas Day
Republic Day

SEM 57

SEM 58
Use of Waste fabric in Industry
Neck piece & Key ring

SEM 59

SEM 60
BIBLIOGRAPHY
http://pratibhasyntex.com/
fashion2apparel.blogspot.com
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/search/label/Dye
http://www.textileflowchart.com/search/label/Yarn
http://www.textileflowchart.com/2015/07/flow-chart-of-yarn-
finishing-process.html
http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/search/label/Fabric
textilelearner.blogspot.com

SEM 61
THANK YOU………..

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