Nearshore Wave Predictions along the Oregon Coast
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The document summarizes a project to develop a nearshore wave prediction system along the Oregon coast. The system aims to predict wave characteristics such as height nearshore given deepwater conditions from NOAA buoys. It seeks to implement and validate the prediction system, then assess local vulnerability and engage stakeholders through workshops. The outcomes will be a validated system transitioned to the National Weather Service to aid in storm surge forecasts, navigation, siting wave energy devices, and recreation.
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- 1. Nearshore Wave Prediction Along the Oregon Coast H. Tuba Özkan-Haller (COAS) Peter Ruggiero (Geosciences)
- 2. The nearshore ocean is fun
- 4. …… .. keeps us fed
- 5. Pelamis OPT Wavegen …… .. energetic
- 8. …… .. vulnerable Ruggiero, Allan, and Komar, 2010; after Allan and Komar, 2000; 2006
- 11. Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecast system Wave modifications over the OR shelf
Editor's Notes
- Rational and fair coastal management requires an assessment of the vulnerability associated with coastal change. This cannot be presently provided in large part because the position of the shoreline or bluff varies over a broad spectrum of time scales in response to a variety of processes. Coastal Change Hazards cost on the order of $ 100s of millions per year in the US alone. These hazards exist over a broad range of time and space scales. Some coasts have been retreating for centuries to millenia but become hazards when they impact coastal developments. Pacifica, CA long-term erosion problem was accentuated by the 97/98 El Nino. Episodic cliff erosion and landsliding is a major hazard to infrastructure. In other cases event driven response constitutes the greatest hazards such as the recent impacts of hurricane Isabel on the outer banks of NC. Obviously it would be nice to have a predictive capability to reduce the economic, social, and environmental costs of these hazards.
- Rational and fair coastal management requires an assessment of the vulnerability associated with coastal change. This cannot be presently provided in large part because the position of the shoreline or bluff varies over a broad spectrum of time scales in response to a variety of processes. Coastal Change Hazards cost on the order of $ 100s of millions per year in the US alone. These hazards exist over a broad range of time and space scales. Some coasts have been retreating for centuries to millenia but become hazards when they impact coastal developments. Pacifica, CA long-term erosion problem was accentuated by the 97/98 El Nino. Episodic cliff erosion and landsliding is a major hazard to infrastructure. In other cases event driven response constitutes the greatest hazards such as the recent impacts of hurricane Isabel on the outer banks of NC. Obviously it would be nice to have a predictive capability to reduce the economic, social, and environmental costs of these hazards.