The document discusses the structure and care of hair, highlighting the importance of maintaining a balance of protein (83-87%) and moisture (about 3%) for healthy hair. It details the impact of pH levels on hair condition, the processes involved in hair coloring and treatments, and emphasizes the use of ammonia-free products to minimize damage. Proper hair care includes using specific shampoos, treatments, and conditioners to maintain optimum hair health.

1. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Your Hair
and the effects that
products have on it

2. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
The Structure of Hair
Structure of the Hair Shaft

3. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Unlike skin, hair cannot repair itself. It is a
balance of protein and moisture, which keeps it in
good condition with natural shine.
Protein levels in hair are around 83% to 87%.
Moisture levels are about 3%. The only difference
between your hair and nails is the 3% moisture. If
this essential balance is maintained, the hair will
stay healthy, strong and in good condition.
On the outside of hair are transparent layers of
interlocking scales, which are called the cuticle.
We have about 7 to 11 layers all wrapped around
the delicate inner structure.
The Structure of Hair

4. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
pH Balance
• This is a measure of acidity and
alkalinity
• It ranges from 0 to 14
• 7 is neutral – pure water
• The ideal level for our hair and skin
is between pH 4.5 and 5.5
• Above 5.5 the hair starts to open
and below 4.5 it starts to contract
• For a permanent hair colour to
work, we have to open the hair by
taking it out of its ideal pH and take
it above pH 8
• To ensure the best possible
condition of the hair we have to
return it to its ideal pH

5. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Colouring Hair 1
Permanent colour
with medium to high
level peroxide
Changes existing
colour in the hair
Oxidative
pigment
Permanent
Permanent colour
with a low level
peroxide
Penetrates the
cuticle and lasts
more than 8 washes
Oxidative
pigment
Demi
Semi-permanent
colour
Coats the hair and
lasts 6-8 washes
Direct pigmentSemi-permanent
Colour mousseCoats the hair and
lasts 1 wash
Direct pigmentTemporary
Example ProductsEffect on HairPigment TypeTechnique

6. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Colouring Hair 2
For a permanent hair colour to work, we have to lift
the cuticle and allow the permanent colour into the
hair. The only way to do this is to alter the pH of the
hair.
All permanent hair colours use this method.
There are 2 ways to open the cuticle. The traditional
method uses ammonia, which is highly effective, but
can damage the hair. The alternative method uses the
latest technology, where the active ingredient for
raising the pH is mildly alkaline and acts as a
conditioning agent.
Human scalp hair, 700x
magnification

7. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Pre-Lightening and
Highlighting Hair
Lightening agents provide a greater degree of lift by oxidising
the natural colour pigment in the hair.
To avoid any damage to the hair when pre-lightening or
highlighting, use a product which is:
Ammonia-free: to prevent excess swelling and damage to the
hair
Dust-free: to avoid inhalation of the product
Made with added wheat proteins: to strengthen the hair
during the process
For on-the-scalp applications, use a protective oil
Human scalp hair, 700x
magnification

8. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Perming and
Straightening Hair
Perming and straightening involves altering the physical
make-up of the hair.
To ensure hair is left healthy, choose a product which is:
Ammonia-free: to prevent excess swelling and damage to
the hair
Thioglycolate-free: a relaxing agent, which can irritate the
skin and scalp
pH balanced: hair is left around its natural pH, minimising
any damage caused by the process
Human scalp hair, 700x
magnification

9. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Caring for Hair
Hair in good condition should not only look healthy, but when
wet, should be able to stretch by 30% of its length and
return, without any damage to the hair.
To keep hair in its optimum condition, it should be treated
with shampoos, treatments and conditioners.
Shampoo: to clean hair
Treatment: to repair, rebalance and reconstruct hair
Conditioner: to close the cuticle and add shine

10. n a t u r a l h a i r c a r e t e c h n o l o g y
Remember!
P ROTEIN
M OISTURE
P H