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J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com
ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
www.ijera.com 6|P a g e
Isolation of self Printing paste from Plant Seeds and Its
Application in Simultaneous Burn-out and Screen Printing
technique
J.I.Abd –El Thalouth
Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University, Cairo. Egypt
Abstract
Printing pastes containing eco-friendly galactomannan gum and safety natural dye were isolated simultaneously
in one step process from tara plant seeds using sodium hydroxide solution. The effect of concentrations of
sodium hydroxide on the rheological properties of the isolated printing pastes were thoroughly investigated.
Technological evaluation of the obtained pastes to act as screen printing paste and burn-out style paste to be
used in printing five different blends as well as pure wool was achieved. The results were evaluated via
measuring the % loss in weight, K/S of the coloured area and tensile strength for the printed area.
The results obtained reviles that all the isolated pastes are characterized by non-Newtonian pseudoplastic
behaviour, and its apparent viscosity depends on the concentration of sodium hydroxide and also on the time of
storing. The prepared pastes could be used successfully as a screen printing paste and burn-out paste
simultaneously. The % loss in weight increases by increasing sodium hydroxide concentration and/or the portion
of wool in the blend. The K/S of the printed area depends on the nature of the component of the blend and
higher on protenic fabrics than that of cellulosic.
Unique colour and attractive texture could be achieved using the current technique. It is also found that as the
concentration of sodium hydroxide increases, the % loss in tensile strength increases specially for woolen
blends, however the decreases is not high and satisfactory for industrial application.
Key words: Galactomannan, natural dye, burn-out, printing, rheology, blends.
I. Introduction
Burn-out styles, as the name suggests, this
seems to be rather a drastic process in that it involves
the destruction of all, or at least part of the fabric in
the printed areas of the pattern(1). This technique was
developed in France in the early twenties of the last
century and was extremely popular in fashion design
(2). The principle entails the use of print paste
containing an agent that is capable of dissolving or
destroying the fabric in the printed areas during
subsequent processing (1,3). The effect can be
employed alone or in conjunction with printed head-
colours. There are principally two types of burn-out
pastes namely an acid paste and an alkali paste. The
former destroy cellulosic fibers, nylon, cellulose
acetate and triacetate. While the second destroy the
protenic fibers (4). In the fashion industry, fabric with
a burn-out pattern is known as devore (5).
Concern for environment has, therefore, created
an increasing interest in natural dyes. It is believed
that natural dyes are more friendly to the environment
than synthetic dyes (6). Tara plant seeds are
composed of three components namely hull,
endosperm and germ. They contain both eco-friendly
galactomanan gum and eco friendly natural dyes(7,8).
The current work aims to isolate both the
galactomannan gum and natural dye from tara seeds
simultaneously in one step process using different
concentrations of sodium hydroxide to achieve a self
printing paste. Evaluation of the obtained self printing
paste and its utilization as a printing paste as well as
burn-out paste was my goal. This was conducted to
achieve a unique colour and texture in a different
blended fabrics, viz, Wool/Nylon (60/40),
Wool/Polyester (55/45), Wool/polyester (35/65),
Cotton/Polyester (50/50), linen/Polyester as well as
Wool fabric 100%.
II. EXPERIMENTAL
2.1 Materials
2.1.1 Substrates:
- The following fabrics were selected and used in
the current work
- Wool (100%) of 210 g/m2supplied by Misr
Company for Spinning and Weaving, Mehalla
El-Kubra, Egypt.
- Wool/nylon blend (60/40) of 165 g/m2 supplied
by Misr Company for Spinning and Weaving.
- Wool/Polyester blend (55/45) of 165 g/m2
Supplied by Misr Company for Spinning and
weaving.
- Wool/Polyester blend (35/65) of 256 g/m2
Supplied by
RESEARCH ARTICLE OPEN ACCESS
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ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
www.ijera.com 7|P a g e
- Cotton/polyester blend (50/50) of 239 g/m2
Supplied by Misr Company for Spinning and
Weaving also
- Linen/ polyester blend (80/20 ) of 155 g/m2
Supplied by El-Kamah, Cairo- Egypt.
2.1.2 Plant seeds:
- Dry clean seeds of tara were obtained from tara
shrub. They were kindly supplied by El-
Khavage Farm at El- Khatatba, Menufia, Egypt.
The seeds are composed of three components
namely hull, endosperm and germ and obtained
from ripe pods (9). The latter is rich by
pyrogaaol tannin ( 10-11). The gum is collected
in the endosperm and composed mainly of
galactomannan at a ratio of mannose to galactose
is 3:1 (9,11, 12,13)
2.1.3 Chemicals:
- Sodium hydroxide was of laboratory grade
chemicals and non ionic detergent namely CV-
ET ® was of Technical grade chemical.
2.2 Methods:
2.2.1 Preparation of the burn- out coloured printing
paste:
A printing pastes which are able to act as burn-
out and at the same time to print a coloured area on
the remaining fabric after the removal of the burnt
area could be isolated from tara seeds as follows:
The seeds were crushed mechanically and sieved
to remove the germ. The hull and endosperm were
soaked in different concentrations of sodium
hydroxide solutions (1,2,3,4,5,7,15 and 25 %) and left
overnight to yield a coloured viscous mass. The latter
was purified through separation from other insoluble
components of hull and endosperm by filtration
through a mucilein fabric. The purified coloured
viscous masses so obtained were used as self printing
pastes for printing the aforementioned six fabric
samples without any other additives.
2.2.2 Printing:
All of the blended fabrics were printed using the
self printing pastes via screen, i.e. flat screen printing
technique.
2.2.3 Fixation:
Fixation of the printed samples was expedited by
steaming at 120 oC for 15 minutes.
2.2.4 Washing:
The fixed fabrics were given a hot rinse at 50-60
oC till the hydrolyzed fabric components (Wool,
nylon, polyester) is removed, neutralized with dilute
acetic acid, rinsed with cold again and finally dried.
2.2.5 Analysis and Measurements:
- Determination of the rheological properties: The
rheological properties of the prepared self
printing pastes were measured at 25oC using
rheomat-15, Zurich, Switzerland.
- The colour strength (K/S): The color strength of
the printed samples expressed as K/S was
evaluated by light reflectance technique(14) . All
the printed samples were measured using a
Hunter Lab UltraScan PRO instrument. The K/S
values represented are a mean of readings for
each sample.
- The % loss in weight: The % loss in weight was
estimated via measuring the weight of the fabric
before and after printing and washing based on
the dry weight, using the following formula:
% loss in weight = (A-B)100/A
Where A and B are the weights of the same dry
area before and after printing and washing
respectively.
- Tensile strength: Tensile strength of the burn-out
printed area was measured using Instron 3345
according to ASTM D3822 at National Res.
Centre, Cairo, Egypt.
III. RESULTS & DISCUSSION
Development of eco-friendly products and
technologies in textile printing has been the subject of
several recent investigations (15-17). Current
investigation is carried out as an integral part of the
aforementioned investigations. Hence, research was
designed to establish conditions under which
coloured natural thickener could be isolated from
plant seeds namely tara seeds. The coloured thickener
or in a more strict scientific sense, galactomannan
gum along with natural dye could only be obtained
from the crushed tara seeds only when NaOH
solution was used for swelling, dissolution and
isolation of the optainedcoloured paste. For this
reason, the effect of sodium hydroxide solution at
different concentrations on the rheological behavior
of the isolated galactomannan coloured paste was
studied.
Hence, self-printing pastes containing
galactomannan gum and natural dye isolated from the
crushed tara seeds were prepared according to the
procedure indicated in the experimental section using
different concentrations of sodium hydroxide
solutions. The rheological properties of the isolated
pastes were measured at 25oC using Rheomat-15.
Figures 1,2 and Tables I,II illustrate the data
obtained.
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ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
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Figure 1: Effect of Different concentrations of NaOH on the rheological properties of the fresh galactomannan
tara pastes.
Figure 2: Effect of Different concentrations of NaOH on the rheological properties of the galactomannan tara
pastes after storing for 24 hours.
It is clear from Fig 1 that the concentration of
sodium hydroxide has a remarkable effect on the
rheological characteristic of the obtained colored
pastes. Where the rheograms of the pastes prepared
using relatively low concentrations of sodium
hydroxide i.e. 1,2 and 3 % are characterized by a
curve concave towards the rate of shear axis and the
up and down- flow curves are coincident which
indicate that these pastes are characterized by a non-
Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior this means that if
the viscosity (resistance to flow) of these pastes is
measured using a large applied force (Shearing stress)
which causes a high velocity of flow (shear rate) the
apparent viscosity is less than that of the same paste
determined with a smaller force and a slower rate of
flow (9) Figure1 also depict that as the concentration
of NaOH increases from 1 to 3, the rheograms are
shifted far from the rate of shear axis indicating an
increase in the apparent viscosity. For example at a
rate of shear of 5.139 the latter increases from 53.28
to 150.24 to 512.54 poise by increasing NaOH
concentration from 1 to 2 to 3, respectively.
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
700
800
0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000
RateofShear
Shearing Stress
Rheological properties for fresh pastes
1% NaOH 2% NaOH 3% NaOH 7% NaOH 15% NaOH
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
RateofShear
Shearing stress
Rheological properties for stored pastes
1% NaOH Stored for 24 hours 2% NaOhH Stored for 24 hours 3% NaOH Stored for 24 hours
J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com
ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
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Table I: Effect of different concentrations of NaOH on the apparent viscosity in poise of galactomannan tara
gum pastes:
Rate of
shear
Apparent viscosity on using
Rate of
shear
Viscosity
on using
7% NaOH
Rate of
shear
Viscosity on
using 15%
NaOH1% NaOH 2% NaOH 3% NaOH
2.18 62.79817 203.4679 904.2936 67.18 0.087615 88.41 0.066621423
2.927 58.93065 187.0858 729.6344 88.41 0.115372 117.9 0.099830365
3.851 56.87873 166.3698 641.3088 117.9 0.116455 155.6 0.100835476
5.139 53.27885 150.2464 512.5433 155.6 0.126093 225.9 0.097255423
6.779 48.06019 130.8618 - 225.9 0.130279 303.3 0.098318497
9.771 42.03255 109.2846 - 303.3 0.122915 399 0.098345865
13.12 36.1029 92.65777 - 399 0.122932 532.1 0.099556474
17.26 31.88528 79.31634 - 532.1 0.122778 702.3 0.097778727
23.03 27.70083 63.12983 - 702.3 0.117329 - -
30.38 24.33377 53.44404 - - - - -
44.1 19.86757 40.48027 - - - - -
59.22 16.32067 33.28875 - - - - -
77.92 13.7731 26.70534 - - - - -
103.9 11.33147 21.68787 - - - - -
137.1 9.426258 17.57433 - - - - -
Table II: Apparent viscosity in poise of the isolated pastes using different concentrations of NaOH after storing
for 24 hours at different rates of shear:
On increasing the concentration of sodium
hydroxide to 7,15 % or 25 % the opposite holds true
and the rheograms are shifted near the rate of shear
axis indicating a decrease in the apparent viscosity at
any specific rate of shear ( see Table I).
It is also clear from figure 1 that the rheograms
obtained on using 7 and 15 % of sodium hydroxide is
nearly straight line, i.e. these pastes is nearly
characterized by Newtonian solutions. Where their
apparent viscosity is nearly constant by changing the
rate of shear as it is clear from Table I. While on
using a concentration of 25 % NaOH, the paste is too
fluid to be measured under the current conditions.
Figure 2 and Table II represent the effect of
storing of the isolated pastes for 3 days on the
rheological properties and on the apparent viscosity
of the pastes prepared using 1,2 and 3 % sodium
hydroxide solutions.
On comparing figures 1 and 2 we can easily
illustrate that all the three pastes under investigations
did not affected by storing for 3 days, where all the
three pastes still characterized by non-Newtonian
pseudoplastic characteristic after storing. However
the location of the rheograms with respect to the rate
of shear axis is changed in the apparent viscosity
upon storing. It seems that the apparent viscosity at
any specific rate of shear depends on: (1) the
concentration of NaOH, (2) the rate of shear, and (3)
the time of storing.
Rate of shear Apparent viscosity in poise on using
1% NaOH stored for 24
hours
2%NaOH stored for 24
hours
3% NaOH stored for 24 hours
2.18 75.35779817 175.8348624 796.2798165
2.927 67.35223779 65.48001367 692.2172873
3.851 63.9885744 1.3066736 583.0070112
5.139 58.60673283 133.1971201 495.4932866
6.779 52.91045877 118.7446526 -
9.771 45.39555828 100.8781087 -
13.12 40.06783537 87.64939024 -
17.26 41.24449594 74.87485516 -
23.03 34.71515415 63.36734694 -
30.38 31.5437788 53.44404213 -
44.1 24.21360544 41.59773243 -
59.22 19.55707531 34.2134414 -
77.92 16.51514374 27.82969713 -
103.9 13.43965351 22.39942252 -
J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com
ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
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On comparing Tables I and II it is obvious that both
the concentration of sodium hydroxide as well as the
time of storing had a remarkable effect on the
apparent viscosity of the isolated pastes.
At relatively low concentration of NaOH, i.e. 1%
the viscosity increases, while at relatively higher
concentrations, i.e. 2 and 3 the apparent viscosity
decreases. This phenomenon holds true at any
specific rate of shear. For example, the paste prepared
using 1% NaOH at a rate of shear 2.18 sec-1 .
Increases from 62.79 poise to 75.35 poise. While
pastes prepared using 2 and 3 % decreases from
203.46 to 175.83 and from 904.29 to 796.27
respectively at the same rate of shear.
The increase in the apparent viscosity for the
pastes prepared by relatively low concentration of
sodium hydroxide (1%) by storing may be due to the
formation of van der Waals forces and/or hydrogen
bonding between the galactomannan chains formed
during storing. While the decreases in the apparent
viscosity at relatively higher concentrations (i.e. 2
and 3) may be due to hydrolytic molecular cleavage
of mannose chains under these relative sever
conditions, hence the apparent viscosity at any
specific rate of shear decreases(18,19).
Utilization of the isolated pastes in colouration
and burn-out style printing technique:
As it has been previously reported the main aim
of the present work is to isolate self-printing pastes
(containing thickener, natural colour and natural
mordant) from tara seeds to be used simultaneously in
colouration and burn-out printing style for different
blended fabrics.
To achieve this different self-printing pastes
were prepared using different concentration of
sodium hydroxide viz. 1,2,3,7,15 and 25 % and used
in printing 6 different blended fabrics comprise
cotton/polyester, linen/polyester, Wool/Polyester,
Wool/nylon and pure Wool for the sake of
comparison. Via screen printing technique. After
printing, and drying, the printed goods were subjected
to steaming at 120oC for 15 minutes followed by
washing thoroughly to remove the burn-out portion of
the blend, the thickener and unfixed colour. After
washing and drying the fabrics were assessed for
measured % loss in weight, K/S as well as tensile
strength. Given below the results obtained along with
their appropriate discussion.
Table III and Fig 3 represent the effect of sodium
hydroxide concentration in the burn-out printing
pastes on the hydrolysis and decomposition of the
different fabrics. It is clear from the data of this table
that the % loss in weight found to be depend on both
the concentration of sodium hydroxide as well as the
nature of fabrics which constitute the blend.
It is clear from the data of Table III that complete
decomposition for the fabrics, under investigation,
was achieved at a concentration of 25% NaOH for the
pure Wool fabric. While the blended fabrics were
damaged by various ratios depending on both NaOH
concentration and the nature of the blend constituent,
which achieve the burn out feature. When we have a
look on the data of Table III and Fig.3 we can easily
illustrate that we can achieve different textures on the
blended fabrics.
Table III: Effect of Sodium hydroxide concentration in the burn-out printing paste on the hydrolysis of
the fabrics expressed as % decrease in weight.
Blend used Weight of
m2
% decrease in weight via burn-out printing using natural colour
containing NaOH concentration of
1% 2% 3% 7% 15% 25%
Wool % 210 5.36 12.60 13.02 31.37 38.20 -
Wool/Nylon(60/40) 165 5.60 14.77 14.83 35.99 40.12 64.15
Wool/Polyester (55/45) 165 4.54 11.96 12.01 29.15 35.13 61.43
Wool/Polyester (35/65) 4.02 10.30 12.03 27.04 34.10 42.75
Cotton/ polyester (50/50) 239 1.49 1.84 2.13 2.30 2.52 3.85
Linen/Polyester (80/20) 160 1.63 2.07 2.99 2.51 2.73 4.01
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ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
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Figure 3: Effect of Sodium hydroxide concentration on the hydrolysis of the fabrics expressed as % decrease in
weight.
It is also clear from the data of Table III that,
irrespective of the nature of the blended fabric used,
increasing the concentration of NaOH in the paste is
accompanied by an increase in the % loss in weight.
However the magnitude of the % decrease in weight
depends on the nature of the component of the blend.
Where, the magnitude of the % decrease in weight
increases by increasing the protenic portion in the
blend, and decreased by increasing the cellulosic
portion. For example in case of using Wool/nylon
(60/40), the % decrease in weight varies from 64.15
to 40.12 to 35.99 to 14.83 to 14.77 to 5.60 on using a
pastes containing 25,15,7,3,2 and 1% of NaOH
respectively. While in case of cellulosic blends, i.e.
cotton/Polyester (50/50) or linen /Polyester ( 80/20),
the % decrease in weight were found to be
unremarkable when compared with the wool blends.
The current data is expected since, it is well
known that alkali hydrolyze wool while cotton is
stable in alkaline medium. In fact 5% solution of
caustic soda will completely dissolve wool at the boil.
With alkali, cysteine is readily attacked and possibly
arginine, histidine and serine (20).
CH CH2 S S CH2 CH CH CH2 SH + CH CH2 SOH
The resulting sulphenic acid is unstable in an alkaline
medium and decomposes with the formation of an
aldehyde and hydrogen sulphide. Thus, alkalies cause
considerable changes in the fiber, characterized by
the destruction of cysteine linkages and by
subsequent transformation of the decomposition
products (21,22)
.
CH CH2 SOH CH CHO H2S+
Hence, the blends containing high % of wool
fabric were affected greatly by the current burn-out
alkaline self-printing pastes. So, we can achieve a
highly desired fashionable designs on using different
concentrations of NaOH in printing blended fabrics
containing wool fabric, where we can achieve both
different coloured shades as well as different and
attractive textures in the printed fabrics as a result of
the loss in weight caused in printed area.
While in case of cellulosic as well as polyester
portions of the blends, it is well known that they have
greater stability for alkali. Where a solution of 20 %
of NaOH is used to mercerized cotton, making it
stronger, smoother and hard acquiring a greater
affinity for dyes (23).
Also, at room temperature, polyester has good
resistance to weak alkalis and fair resistance to strong
alkalis. This resistance is reduced with increased
temperature (24).Hence, the current data (of table III)
concerning the slight decrease in weight (with respect
to both cotton/polyester and linen/ polyester) is in
complete conformation with the previous studies
(23,24).
Printing:
An economic eco-friendly printing pastes
containing a natural dye and galactomannan gum
could be obtained from crushed tara seeds using
different concentrations of sodium hydroxide and
used as self coloured paste.
0
20
40
60
80
1% 2% 3% 7%
15%
25%
%decreaseinweight
Concentration of NaOH
% Decrease in Weight via burn-out
Wool 100%
Wool/Nylon 60/40
Wool/Polyester (55/45)
Wool/Polyester 35/65
Cotton/polyester 50/50
Linen/Polyester
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The latter was used in printing the
aforementioned blended fabrics as burn-out printing
style via screen printing technique. After printing,
drying, steaming at 120oC for 15 minutes. The
printed goods were washed thoroughly to remove, the
thickener, the unfixed colours, the alkali burn-out and
hydrolyzed fabric portions as well as the excess
alkali. After washing and drying, the fabrics were
assessed for measuring the K/S of the coloured area.
The results obtained are represented in figures 4 and
5.
Figure 4: The effect of different concentrations of NaOH on the K/S of Wool fabrics and its blends.
Figure 5: The Effect of different concentrations of NaOH on the K/S of Cotton/polyester and Linen/polyester
blends.
Sodium hydroxide solution was used for
swelling, dissolution and isolation of the gum from
the endosperm of tara seeds which sticked with the
hull. Sodium hydroxide molecules can extract the dye
and the natural mordant which are concentrated in the
hull of the seeds.
It is clear from the data of figure 4 and 5 that the
K/S of the printed goods depends on: (a) the
concentration of NaOH and (b) on the constitution of
blended fabric.
Irrespective of the nature of blended fabrics, the
K/S increases by increasing the concentration of
sodium hydroxide in the paste reaches to a maximum
after which it decreases. Pastes extracted using 3%
NaOH seems to be the best one since it acquires the
highest K/S and characterized also by the best
rheological properties compared with the other pastes
as it is clear from its highest apparent viscosity at any
specific rate of shear.
Sodium hydroxide solution was used for
swelling, dissolving, and isolation of both the gum
and the natural colour from the hull of tara seeds
which sticked with the endosperm. So sodium
hydroxide molecules can extract the natural dye from
the seeds. By increasing the concentration of NaOH,
its efficiency to extract the colour increases too until
a concentration of 3%. Increasing the concentration
more than 3%; i.e. to 7, 13 or 25 % has a bad effect
on both the viscosity and on the composition of the
natural colour itself. Where a remarkable decrease, in
K/S was obtained on using these concentrations.
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30%
K/S
concentration of NaOH
Protenic Blends
Wool % Wool/polyester 65/35 Wool/Naylon 60/40 Wool/polyester55/45
0
1
2
3
4
5
0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30%
K/S
Concentration of NaOH
Cellulosic Blends
B2.Cotton/polyester 50/50 E2.Linen/polyester 8o/20
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It seems that the natural colour of tara seeds is
unstable in relatively high alkalinity, i.e. at a
concentration of 7 or more; which may decompose
some of colour molecules.
It is also clear from figures 4 and 5 that wool and
its blends display higher K/S values compared with
cellulose blends, i.e. cotton and linen fabrics. This is
rather expected since tara is rich in pyrogallol tannic
(9). It has been reported (10,11), that tannins present
in natural dyes are high molecular weight compounds
containing phenolic hydroxyl groups which enable
them to form effective crosslinks between proteins
such as wool and silk, where they form three types of
bonds namely:
(i) Hydrogen bond: which is formed between
phenolic hydroxyl groups of tannins and the free
amino and amides groups of proteins.
(ii) Ionic bond: it is formed between suitable charged
anionic groups of the tannin and cationic groups
on the protein.
(iii) Covalent bond: it is formed by interaction of any
quinon or semi-quinon group present in tannic
with any suitable reactive groups in the protein.
However, in case of cellular, the tanins could form
only two types of bonds as follows:
(i) Hydrogen bonds: which is formed between
phenolic hydroxyl groups of tanins and the
hydroxyl groups of cellulose.
(ii) Covalent bond: which may be formed by the
interaction of quinone or semi-quinone groups
present in tannins with suitable functional groups
in the cellulose.
Based on the foregoing, it may be concluded,
that the self-coloured printing paste isolated from tara
seeds, could successfully be applied without any type
of additions to protonic or cellulosic blends.
Never the less, the shade is only differ depending
on the % of protenic and/or cellulosic portion in the
printed blend.
It may concluded from all of the above data that,
the most suitable concentration of NaOH in order to
extract both, the galactomannan and natural colour
from tara seeds was found to be 1,2 and 3%. However
the best to obtain the highest viscosity and also the
highest K/S was found to be 3%.
Furthermore, the effect of storing of the extracted
printing pastes prepared using 1,2 and 3% for 24
hours was also investigated. The results of K/S
obtained are represented in Figure 6. A,B and C for
pastes prepared using 1,2 and 3% respectively.
It is clear from Figure 5 that in all cases, i.e. for
all the investigated blends irrespective the
concentration of NaOH used there is a decrease in the
K/S by storing of the pastes for 24 hours. However,
the magnitude of % decrease depends on both the
concentration of NaOH used and also in the
composition and nature the blended fabric.
Figure 6(A,B&C): Comparison between the effect of storing pastes containing 1,2,& 3 % NaOH on the K/S of
the blended fabrics.
0
10
K/S
A
1%NaOH Fresh & Stored
Fresh Stored
0
10
K/S
B
2% NaOH Fresh & Stored
Fresh Stored
0
5
10
K/S
C
3% NaOH Fresh & Stored
Fresh Stored
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www.ijera.com 14|P a g e
Tensile strength
Table IV represent the effect of burn-out printing
under the current technique using different pastes
isolated using 1,2 and 3% of sodium hydroxide on
tensile strength.
It is clear from the data that subjecting the
current blends to burn-out printing style using pastes
containing different amount of sodium hydroxide has
a remarkable effect on the tensile strength of the
blend. However, the magnitude of effect depends on
the nature of the component of the fabric.
Table IV: Effect of storing the pastes treated with1,2&3 % NaOH on the Tensile strength of the printed blends.
Fabric used Concentration of NaOH used in paste preparation
Blank 1% 2% 3%
Stress Strain Stress Strain Stress Strain Stress Strain
Wool % 0.528 25.001 0.525 25.500 0.378 15.500 0.382 18.250
Cotton/ polyester (50/50) 3.435 6.750 3.263 7.000 3.229 7.250 3.115 6.750
Wool/Nylon(60/40) 0.686 20.250 0.407 22.750 0.376 21.250 0.269 21.250
Wool/Polyester (55/45) 1.836 19.000 1.772 19.500 1.756 19.000 1.598 17.750
Linen/Polyester (80/20) 1.177 10.500 1.167 9.750 0.623 10.250 0.577 11.000
Stress: stress at auto break (kgf/mm2)
Strain: at auto break (%)
In all cases, regardless of the nature of the blend,
the tensile strength of original blend, i.e. before
subjecting to burn-out printing is higher than the
printed blend. As the concentration of sodium
hydroxide increases, the magnitude of decrease in
tensile strength was increases too. However, the %
decrease in tensile strength increases by increasing
the % of protenic portion, the opposite holds true in
case of cellulosic blends.
For example in case of wool/nylon, it decreases
from 0.686 kgf/mm2 to 0.407 kgf/mm2 to 0.376
kgf/mm2 to 0.269 kgf/mm2, while in case of
cotton/polyester (50/50) it decreases from 3.435
kgf/mm2 to 3.265 kgf/mm2 to 3.229 kgf/mm2 to
3.115 kgf/mm2 for the original blend and after
printing with pastes containing 1,2 and 3% sodium
hydroxide respectively.
The data of table IV is expected since it is well
known that sodium hydroxide has a remarkable effect
on both wool and nylon and a less effect on cellulosic
and polyester fabrics.
IV. Conclusion
- Both eco-friendly galactomannan gum and safety
natural dye could be isolated successfuly from
tara seeds simultaneously in one step process
using different concentrations of sodium
hydroxide.
- The isolated pastes are characterized by non-
Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, and its
apparent viscosity depends on the concentration
of sodium hydroxide as well as time of storing.
- The isolated pastes could be used successfully as
screen printing pastes and burn-out paste
simultaneously.
- The effect of burn-out printing pastes on the
hydrolysis and decomposition of different
blended fabrics was found to be depending on
the concentration of sodium hydroxide in the
paste and also on the nature of the components of
the blend.
- Increasing the concentration of sodium
hydroxide in the paste is accompanied by an
increase in the % loss in weigh. The % decrease
in weigh increased by increasing the wool
portion in the blend and follows the order:
Wool/nylon 60:40> wool 100% >
Wool/polyester 55:45 > Wool/polyester 35/65 >
Linen/polyester 80:20 > Cotton/ polyester 50:50.
- The most optimum concentrations of sodium
hydroxide in order to extract both natural colour
and galactomannan gum was 3%.
- The self coloured printing pastes isolated could
successfully be applied to print both protenic
and/or cellulosic fabrics. However, the K/S on
protenic fabrics is higher than that of cellulosic
one.
- Unique colour and attractive texture could be
achieved using the current technique depending
on the nature and constituent of the blend.
- As the concentration of sodium hydroxide
increases the % loss in tensile strength decreases,
specially for woolen blends. However the %
decrease in tensile strength is not high and
satisfactory for industrial application.
REFERENCES
[1.] L. W. C. Miles;"Textile Printing", Society of
Dyers and Colourists, England, 2nd Ed.
(1994).
[2.] Kinnersly-Tayor, J.,. Dyeing and screen-
Printing on Textiles. A and C Black
Publishers, London, UK., 176(2003).
[3.] 3-V A Bell, Review of printing (Ilkley:IWS,
1986)
J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com
ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15
www.ijera.com 15|P a g e
[4.] Grigoriu, A., Costea, E., Bertea, A. &
Homutescu, J., „Embroidry (burn-out)
printing of cellulosic blends‟, Textile-
Pielarie, 35/39 (1-2), pp.81-90(1989).
[5.] Hall, J.E., 2007. The Art and Emboidery of
Jane Hall: Reflections of Nature. Search
Press, UK., ISBN- 13: 9781844480388,
pp:34-36.
[6.] Smith, Sue Wagner, (Ciba-Geigy); Am.
Dyestuff Reporter. (9), 32 (1991).
[7.] Li ZhGuo, Wu Hao, Yan WenYun, Xia
Dingjiu;
[8.] Forest Research, Beijing. Chinese Academy
of Forestry, Beijing, China: 15, (4), 474-478
(2002).
[9.] F.A. Ahmed; Bulletin-of-Faculty-of-
Agriculture, Cairo University; 54 (1): 93-
110 (2003).
[10.] R. L. Whistler and J. N. BeMiller;
"Industrial Gums" 3rd Ed., Academic Press
Inc., New York, London, Tokyo, p. 2, 194,
215-218 (1993).
[11.] J. S. Rogers and C. W. Beebe; J. Am.
Leather Chem. Assoc, 36, 525 (1949).
[12.] E. Anderson; Ind. Eng. Chem., 41, 2887
(1949).
[13.] L. A. Buffington, E. S. Stevens, E. R.
Morris, and D. A. Rees; Int. J. Biol.
Macromol., 2, 199 (1980).
[14.] I. C. M. Dea, E. R. Morris, D. A. Rees,
E. J. Welsh, H. A. Barnes, and J. Price;
Carbohyd. Res., 57, 249 (1977).
[15.] Judd, D.B., & Wyszecki, H. (1975). Color in
Busince Science and Industry. (3rd ed.).
John Wiley and Sons.
[16.] S. Sostar Turk and R. Schneider; Dyes and
Pigments, 39, 211-221 (1998).
[17.] R. B. Chavan; Colourage; 42 (4), 27 (1995).
[18.] N. Gogoi and B. Kalita; Colourage 46 (1),
23 (1999).
[19.] K.Nandhini Venugopal et al / International
Journal of Pharma Sciences and Research
(IJPSR) Vol.1(1), 28-39 (2010).
[20.] Farahnaky, A., Darabzadeh, N.,et ai, “
InsideFood Symposium” Leuven, Belgium ,
9-12 April (2013)
[21.] J.W.Frich, W.A.Reves and J.D. Goutheric,
Text.Res.J, 27, 294 (1957).
[22.] H.H.Mosher Text. Res. J. 29, 88 (1959).
[23.] J.A. Maclaren, and B. Milligan, Wool
Science: “The Chemical Reactivity of Fibre”
Science Press N.S.W., 95, 181 (1981).
[24.] R.T.O. Connor, “Industrial analysis of
Cotton Cellulose and Modified Cotton
Cellulose” Marcel, New York 3, p. 160
(1972).
[25.] J. Gordoncook, “Hand Book of Textiles
Fibers”, 4th Edition, Merrow Publishing Co.
England, p. 354 (1968).

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Isolation of self Printing paste from Plant Seeds and Its Application in Simultaneous Burn-out and Screen Printing technique

  • 1. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 6|P a g e Isolation of self Printing paste from Plant Seeds and Its Application in Simultaneous Burn-out and Screen Printing technique J.I.Abd –El Thalouth Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University, Cairo. Egypt Abstract Printing pastes containing eco-friendly galactomannan gum and safety natural dye were isolated simultaneously in one step process from tara plant seeds using sodium hydroxide solution. The effect of concentrations of sodium hydroxide on the rheological properties of the isolated printing pastes were thoroughly investigated. Technological evaluation of the obtained pastes to act as screen printing paste and burn-out style paste to be used in printing five different blends as well as pure wool was achieved. The results were evaluated via measuring the % loss in weight, K/S of the coloured area and tensile strength for the printed area. The results obtained reviles that all the isolated pastes are characterized by non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour, and its apparent viscosity depends on the concentration of sodium hydroxide and also on the time of storing. The prepared pastes could be used successfully as a screen printing paste and burn-out paste simultaneously. The % loss in weight increases by increasing sodium hydroxide concentration and/or the portion of wool in the blend. The K/S of the printed area depends on the nature of the component of the blend and higher on protenic fabrics than that of cellulosic. Unique colour and attractive texture could be achieved using the current technique. It is also found that as the concentration of sodium hydroxide increases, the % loss in tensile strength increases specially for woolen blends, however the decreases is not high and satisfactory for industrial application. Key words: Galactomannan, natural dye, burn-out, printing, rheology, blends. I. Introduction Burn-out styles, as the name suggests, this seems to be rather a drastic process in that it involves the destruction of all, or at least part of the fabric in the printed areas of the pattern(1). This technique was developed in France in the early twenties of the last century and was extremely popular in fashion design (2). The principle entails the use of print paste containing an agent that is capable of dissolving or destroying the fabric in the printed areas during subsequent processing (1,3). The effect can be employed alone or in conjunction with printed head- colours. There are principally two types of burn-out pastes namely an acid paste and an alkali paste. The former destroy cellulosic fibers, nylon, cellulose acetate and triacetate. While the second destroy the protenic fibers (4). In the fashion industry, fabric with a burn-out pattern is known as devore (5). Concern for environment has, therefore, created an increasing interest in natural dyes. It is believed that natural dyes are more friendly to the environment than synthetic dyes (6). Tara plant seeds are composed of three components namely hull, endosperm and germ. They contain both eco-friendly galactomanan gum and eco friendly natural dyes(7,8). The current work aims to isolate both the galactomannan gum and natural dye from tara seeds simultaneously in one step process using different concentrations of sodium hydroxide to achieve a self printing paste. Evaluation of the obtained self printing paste and its utilization as a printing paste as well as burn-out paste was my goal. This was conducted to achieve a unique colour and texture in a different blended fabrics, viz, Wool/Nylon (60/40), Wool/Polyester (55/45), Wool/polyester (35/65), Cotton/Polyester (50/50), linen/Polyester as well as Wool fabric 100%. II. EXPERIMENTAL 2.1 Materials 2.1.1 Substrates: - The following fabrics were selected and used in the current work - Wool (100%) of 210 g/m2supplied by Misr Company for Spinning and Weaving, Mehalla El-Kubra, Egypt. - Wool/nylon blend (60/40) of 165 g/m2 supplied by Misr Company for Spinning and Weaving. - Wool/Polyester blend (55/45) of 165 g/m2 Supplied by Misr Company for Spinning and weaving. - Wool/Polyester blend (35/65) of 256 g/m2 Supplied by RESEARCH ARTICLE OPEN ACCESS
  • 2. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 7|P a g e - Cotton/polyester blend (50/50) of 239 g/m2 Supplied by Misr Company for Spinning and Weaving also - Linen/ polyester blend (80/20 ) of 155 g/m2 Supplied by El-Kamah, Cairo- Egypt. 2.1.2 Plant seeds: - Dry clean seeds of tara were obtained from tara shrub. They were kindly supplied by El- Khavage Farm at El- Khatatba, Menufia, Egypt. The seeds are composed of three components namely hull, endosperm and germ and obtained from ripe pods (9). The latter is rich by pyrogaaol tannin ( 10-11). The gum is collected in the endosperm and composed mainly of galactomannan at a ratio of mannose to galactose is 3:1 (9,11, 12,13) 2.1.3 Chemicals: - Sodium hydroxide was of laboratory grade chemicals and non ionic detergent namely CV- ET ® was of Technical grade chemical. 2.2 Methods: 2.2.1 Preparation of the burn- out coloured printing paste: A printing pastes which are able to act as burn- out and at the same time to print a coloured area on the remaining fabric after the removal of the burnt area could be isolated from tara seeds as follows: The seeds were crushed mechanically and sieved to remove the germ. The hull and endosperm were soaked in different concentrations of sodium hydroxide solutions (1,2,3,4,5,7,15 and 25 %) and left overnight to yield a coloured viscous mass. The latter was purified through separation from other insoluble components of hull and endosperm by filtration through a mucilein fabric. The purified coloured viscous masses so obtained were used as self printing pastes for printing the aforementioned six fabric samples without any other additives. 2.2.2 Printing: All of the blended fabrics were printed using the self printing pastes via screen, i.e. flat screen printing technique. 2.2.3 Fixation: Fixation of the printed samples was expedited by steaming at 120 oC for 15 minutes. 2.2.4 Washing: The fixed fabrics were given a hot rinse at 50-60 oC till the hydrolyzed fabric components (Wool, nylon, polyester) is removed, neutralized with dilute acetic acid, rinsed with cold again and finally dried. 2.2.5 Analysis and Measurements: - Determination of the rheological properties: The rheological properties of the prepared self printing pastes were measured at 25oC using rheomat-15, Zurich, Switzerland. - The colour strength (K/S): The color strength of the printed samples expressed as K/S was evaluated by light reflectance technique(14) . All the printed samples were measured using a Hunter Lab UltraScan PRO instrument. The K/S values represented are a mean of readings for each sample. - The % loss in weight: The % loss in weight was estimated via measuring the weight of the fabric before and after printing and washing based on the dry weight, using the following formula: % loss in weight = (A-B)100/A Where A and B are the weights of the same dry area before and after printing and washing respectively. - Tensile strength: Tensile strength of the burn-out printed area was measured using Instron 3345 according to ASTM D3822 at National Res. Centre, Cairo, Egypt. III. RESULTS & DISCUSSION Development of eco-friendly products and technologies in textile printing has been the subject of several recent investigations (15-17). Current investigation is carried out as an integral part of the aforementioned investigations. Hence, research was designed to establish conditions under which coloured natural thickener could be isolated from plant seeds namely tara seeds. The coloured thickener or in a more strict scientific sense, galactomannan gum along with natural dye could only be obtained from the crushed tara seeds only when NaOH solution was used for swelling, dissolution and isolation of the optainedcoloured paste. For this reason, the effect of sodium hydroxide solution at different concentrations on the rheological behavior of the isolated galactomannan coloured paste was studied. Hence, self-printing pastes containing galactomannan gum and natural dye isolated from the crushed tara seeds were prepared according to the procedure indicated in the experimental section using different concentrations of sodium hydroxide solutions. The rheological properties of the isolated pastes were measured at 25oC using Rheomat-15. Figures 1,2 and Tables I,II illustrate the data obtained.
  • 3. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 8|P a g e Figure 1: Effect of Different concentrations of NaOH on the rheological properties of the fresh galactomannan tara pastes. Figure 2: Effect of Different concentrations of NaOH on the rheological properties of the galactomannan tara pastes after storing for 24 hours. It is clear from Fig 1 that the concentration of sodium hydroxide has a remarkable effect on the rheological characteristic of the obtained colored pastes. Where the rheograms of the pastes prepared using relatively low concentrations of sodium hydroxide i.e. 1,2 and 3 % are characterized by a curve concave towards the rate of shear axis and the up and down- flow curves are coincident which indicate that these pastes are characterized by a non- Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior this means that if the viscosity (resistance to flow) of these pastes is measured using a large applied force (Shearing stress) which causes a high velocity of flow (shear rate) the apparent viscosity is less than that of the same paste determined with a smaller force and a slower rate of flow (9) Figure1 also depict that as the concentration of NaOH increases from 1 to 3, the rheograms are shifted far from the rate of shear axis indicating an increase in the apparent viscosity. For example at a rate of shear of 5.139 the latter increases from 53.28 to 150.24 to 512.54 poise by increasing NaOH concentration from 1 to 2 to 3, respectively. 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 RateofShear Shearing Stress Rheological properties for fresh pastes 1% NaOH 2% NaOH 3% NaOH 7% NaOH 15% NaOH 0 20 40 60 80 100 120 RateofShear Shearing stress Rheological properties for stored pastes 1% NaOH Stored for 24 hours 2% NaOhH Stored for 24 hours 3% NaOH Stored for 24 hours
  • 4. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 9|P a g e Table I: Effect of different concentrations of NaOH on the apparent viscosity in poise of galactomannan tara gum pastes: Rate of shear Apparent viscosity on using Rate of shear Viscosity on using 7% NaOH Rate of shear Viscosity on using 15% NaOH1% NaOH 2% NaOH 3% NaOH 2.18 62.79817 203.4679 904.2936 67.18 0.087615 88.41 0.066621423 2.927 58.93065 187.0858 729.6344 88.41 0.115372 117.9 0.099830365 3.851 56.87873 166.3698 641.3088 117.9 0.116455 155.6 0.100835476 5.139 53.27885 150.2464 512.5433 155.6 0.126093 225.9 0.097255423 6.779 48.06019 130.8618 - 225.9 0.130279 303.3 0.098318497 9.771 42.03255 109.2846 - 303.3 0.122915 399 0.098345865 13.12 36.1029 92.65777 - 399 0.122932 532.1 0.099556474 17.26 31.88528 79.31634 - 532.1 0.122778 702.3 0.097778727 23.03 27.70083 63.12983 - 702.3 0.117329 - - 30.38 24.33377 53.44404 - - - - - 44.1 19.86757 40.48027 - - - - - 59.22 16.32067 33.28875 - - - - - 77.92 13.7731 26.70534 - - - - - 103.9 11.33147 21.68787 - - - - - 137.1 9.426258 17.57433 - - - - - Table II: Apparent viscosity in poise of the isolated pastes using different concentrations of NaOH after storing for 24 hours at different rates of shear: On increasing the concentration of sodium hydroxide to 7,15 % or 25 % the opposite holds true and the rheograms are shifted near the rate of shear axis indicating a decrease in the apparent viscosity at any specific rate of shear ( see Table I). It is also clear from figure 1 that the rheograms obtained on using 7 and 15 % of sodium hydroxide is nearly straight line, i.e. these pastes is nearly characterized by Newtonian solutions. Where their apparent viscosity is nearly constant by changing the rate of shear as it is clear from Table I. While on using a concentration of 25 % NaOH, the paste is too fluid to be measured under the current conditions. Figure 2 and Table II represent the effect of storing of the isolated pastes for 3 days on the rheological properties and on the apparent viscosity of the pastes prepared using 1,2 and 3 % sodium hydroxide solutions. On comparing figures 1 and 2 we can easily illustrate that all the three pastes under investigations did not affected by storing for 3 days, where all the three pastes still characterized by non-Newtonian pseudoplastic characteristic after storing. However the location of the rheograms with respect to the rate of shear axis is changed in the apparent viscosity upon storing. It seems that the apparent viscosity at any specific rate of shear depends on: (1) the concentration of NaOH, (2) the rate of shear, and (3) the time of storing. Rate of shear Apparent viscosity in poise on using 1% NaOH stored for 24 hours 2%NaOH stored for 24 hours 3% NaOH stored for 24 hours 2.18 75.35779817 175.8348624 796.2798165 2.927 67.35223779 65.48001367 692.2172873 3.851 63.9885744 1.3066736 583.0070112 5.139 58.60673283 133.1971201 495.4932866 6.779 52.91045877 118.7446526 - 9.771 45.39555828 100.8781087 - 13.12 40.06783537 87.64939024 - 17.26 41.24449594 74.87485516 - 23.03 34.71515415 63.36734694 - 30.38 31.5437788 53.44404213 - 44.1 24.21360544 41.59773243 - 59.22 19.55707531 34.2134414 - 77.92 16.51514374 27.82969713 - 103.9 13.43965351 22.39942252 -
  • 5. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 10|P a g e On comparing Tables I and II it is obvious that both the concentration of sodium hydroxide as well as the time of storing had a remarkable effect on the apparent viscosity of the isolated pastes. At relatively low concentration of NaOH, i.e. 1% the viscosity increases, while at relatively higher concentrations, i.e. 2 and 3 the apparent viscosity decreases. This phenomenon holds true at any specific rate of shear. For example, the paste prepared using 1% NaOH at a rate of shear 2.18 sec-1 . Increases from 62.79 poise to 75.35 poise. While pastes prepared using 2 and 3 % decreases from 203.46 to 175.83 and from 904.29 to 796.27 respectively at the same rate of shear. The increase in the apparent viscosity for the pastes prepared by relatively low concentration of sodium hydroxide (1%) by storing may be due to the formation of van der Waals forces and/or hydrogen bonding between the galactomannan chains formed during storing. While the decreases in the apparent viscosity at relatively higher concentrations (i.e. 2 and 3) may be due to hydrolytic molecular cleavage of mannose chains under these relative sever conditions, hence the apparent viscosity at any specific rate of shear decreases(18,19). Utilization of the isolated pastes in colouration and burn-out style printing technique: As it has been previously reported the main aim of the present work is to isolate self-printing pastes (containing thickener, natural colour and natural mordant) from tara seeds to be used simultaneously in colouration and burn-out printing style for different blended fabrics. To achieve this different self-printing pastes were prepared using different concentration of sodium hydroxide viz. 1,2,3,7,15 and 25 % and used in printing 6 different blended fabrics comprise cotton/polyester, linen/polyester, Wool/Polyester, Wool/nylon and pure Wool for the sake of comparison. Via screen printing technique. After printing, and drying, the printed goods were subjected to steaming at 120oC for 15 minutes followed by washing thoroughly to remove the burn-out portion of the blend, the thickener and unfixed colour. After washing and drying the fabrics were assessed for measured % loss in weight, K/S as well as tensile strength. Given below the results obtained along with their appropriate discussion. Table III and Fig 3 represent the effect of sodium hydroxide concentration in the burn-out printing pastes on the hydrolysis and decomposition of the different fabrics. It is clear from the data of this table that the % loss in weight found to be depend on both the concentration of sodium hydroxide as well as the nature of fabrics which constitute the blend. It is clear from the data of Table III that complete decomposition for the fabrics, under investigation, was achieved at a concentration of 25% NaOH for the pure Wool fabric. While the blended fabrics were damaged by various ratios depending on both NaOH concentration and the nature of the blend constituent, which achieve the burn out feature. When we have a look on the data of Table III and Fig.3 we can easily illustrate that we can achieve different textures on the blended fabrics. Table III: Effect of Sodium hydroxide concentration in the burn-out printing paste on the hydrolysis of the fabrics expressed as % decrease in weight. Blend used Weight of m2 % decrease in weight via burn-out printing using natural colour containing NaOH concentration of 1% 2% 3% 7% 15% 25% Wool % 210 5.36 12.60 13.02 31.37 38.20 - Wool/Nylon(60/40) 165 5.60 14.77 14.83 35.99 40.12 64.15 Wool/Polyester (55/45) 165 4.54 11.96 12.01 29.15 35.13 61.43 Wool/Polyester (35/65) 4.02 10.30 12.03 27.04 34.10 42.75 Cotton/ polyester (50/50) 239 1.49 1.84 2.13 2.30 2.52 3.85 Linen/Polyester (80/20) 160 1.63 2.07 2.99 2.51 2.73 4.01
  • 6. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 11|P a g e Figure 3: Effect of Sodium hydroxide concentration on the hydrolysis of the fabrics expressed as % decrease in weight. It is also clear from the data of Table III that, irrespective of the nature of the blended fabric used, increasing the concentration of NaOH in the paste is accompanied by an increase in the % loss in weight. However the magnitude of the % decrease in weight depends on the nature of the component of the blend. Where, the magnitude of the % decrease in weight increases by increasing the protenic portion in the blend, and decreased by increasing the cellulosic portion. For example in case of using Wool/nylon (60/40), the % decrease in weight varies from 64.15 to 40.12 to 35.99 to 14.83 to 14.77 to 5.60 on using a pastes containing 25,15,7,3,2 and 1% of NaOH respectively. While in case of cellulosic blends, i.e. cotton/Polyester (50/50) or linen /Polyester ( 80/20), the % decrease in weight were found to be unremarkable when compared with the wool blends. The current data is expected since, it is well known that alkali hydrolyze wool while cotton is stable in alkaline medium. In fact 5% solution of caustic soda will completely dissolve wool at the boil. With alkali, cysteine is readily attacked and possibly arginine, histidine and serine (20). CH CH2 S S CH2 CH CH CH2 SH + CH CH2 SOH The resulting sulphenic acid is unstable in an alkaline medium and decomposes with the formation of an aldehyde and hydrogen sulphide. Thus, alkalies cause considerable changes in the fiber, characterized by the destruction of cysteine linkages and by subsequent transformation of the decomposition products (21,22) . CH CH2 SOH CH CHO H2S+ Hence, the blends containing high % of wool fabric were affected greatly by the current burn-out alkaline self-printing pastes. So, we can achieve a highly desired fashionable designs on using different concentrations of NaOH in printing blended fabrics containing wool fabric, where we can achieve both different coloured shades as well as different and attractive textures in the printed fabrics as a result of the loss in weight caused in printed area. While in case of cellulosic as well as polyester portions of the blends, it is well known that they have greater stability for alkali. Where a solution of 20 % of NaOH is used to mercerized cotton, making it stronger, smoother and hard acquiring a greater affinity for dyes (23). Also, at room temperature, polyester has good resistance to weak alkalis and fair resistance to strong alkalis. This resistance is reduced with increased temperature (24).Hence, the current data (of table III) concerning the slight decrease in weight (with respect to both cotton/polyester and linen/ polyester) is in complete conformation with the previous studies (23,24). Printing: An economic eco-friendly printing pastes containing a natural dye and galactomannan gum could be obtained from crushed tara seeds using different concentrations of sodium hydroxide and used as self coloured paste. 0 20 40 60 80 1% 2% 3% 7% 15% 25% %decreaseinweight Concentration of NaOH % Decrease in Weight via burn-out Wool 100% Wool/Nylon 60/40 Wool/Polyester (55/45) Wool/Polyester 35/65 Cotton/polyester 50/50 Linen/Polyester
  • 7. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 12|P a g e The latter was used in printing the aforementioned blended fabrics as burn-out printing style via screen printing technique. After printing, drying, steaming at 120oC for 15 minutes. The printed goods were washed thoroughly to remove, the thickener, the unfixed colours, the alkali burn-out and hydrolyzed fabric portions as well as the excess alkali. After washing and drying, the fabrics were assessed for measuring the K/S of the coloured area. The results obtained are represented in figures 4 and 5. Figure 4: The effect of different concentrations of NaOH on the K/S of Wool fabrics and its blends. Figure 5: The Effect of different concentrations of NaOH on the K/S of Cotton/polyester and Linen/polyester blends. Sodium hydroxide solution was used for swelling, dissolution and isolation of the gum from the endosperm of tara seeds which sticked with the hull. Sodium hydroxide molecules can extract the dye and the natural mordant which are concentrated in the hull of the seeds. It is clear from the data of figure 4 and 5 that the K/S of the printed goods depends on: (a) the concentration of NaOH and (b) on the constitution of blended fabric. Irrespective of the nature of blended fabrics, the K/S increases by increasing the concentration of sodium hydroxide in the paste reaches to a maximum after which it decreases. Pastes extracted using 3% NaOH seems to be the best one since it acquires the highest K/S and characterized also by the best rheological properties compared with the other pastes as it is clear from its highest apparent viscosity at any specific rate of shear. Sodium hydroxide solution was used for swelling, dissolving, and isolation of both the gum and the natural colour from the hull of tara seeds which sticked with the endosperm. So sodium hydroxide molecules can extract the natural dye from the seeds. By increasing the concentration of NaOH, its efficiency to extract the colour increases too until a concentration of 3%. Increasing the concentration more than 3%; i.e. to 7, 13 or 25 % has a bad effect on both the viscosity and on the composition of the natural colour itself. Where a remarkable decrease, in K/S was obtained on using these concentrations. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% K/S concentration of NaOH Protenic Blends Wool % Wool/polyester 65/35 Wool/Naylon 60/40 Wool/polyester55/45 0 1 2 3 4 5 0% 5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% K/S Concentration of NaOH Cellulosic Blends B2.Cotton/polyester 50/50 E2.Linen/polyester 8o/20
  • 8. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 13|P a g e It seems that the natural colour of tara seeds is unstable in relatively high alkalinity, i.e. at a concentration of 7 or more; which may decompose some of colour molecules. It is also clear from figures 4 and 5 that wool and its blends display higher K/S values compared with cellulose blends, i.e. cotton and linen fabrics. This is rather expected since tara is rich in pyrogallol tannic (9). It has been reported (10,11), that tannins present in natural dyes are high molecular weight compounds containing phenolic hydroxyl groups which enable them to form effective crosslinks between proteins such as wool and silk, where they form three types of bonds namely: (i) Hydrogen bond: which is formed between phenolic hydroxyl groups of tannins and the free amino and amides groups of proteins. (ii) Ionic bond: it is formed between suitable charged anionic groups of the tannin and cationic groups on the protein. (iii) Covalent bond: it is formed by interaction of any quinon or semi-quinon group present in tannic with any suitable reactive groups in the protein. However, in case of cellular, the tanins could form only two types of bonds as follows: (i) Hydrogen bonds: which is formed between phenolic hydroxyl groups of tanins and the hydroxyl groups of cellulose. (ii) Covalent bond: which may be formed by the interaction of quinone or semi-quinone groups present in tannins with suitable functional groups in the cellulose. Based on the foregoing, it may be concluded, that the self-coloured printing paste isolated from tara seeds, could successfully be applied without any type of additions to protonic or cellulosic blends. Never the less, the shade is only differ depending on the % of protenic and/or cellulosic portion in the printed blend. It may concluded from all of the above data that, the most suitable concentration of NaOH in order to extract both, the galactomannan and natural colour from tara seeds was found to be 1,2 and 3%. However the best to obtain the highest viscosity and also the highest K/S was found to be 3%. Furthermore, the effect of storing of the extracted printing pastes prepared using 1,2 and 3% for 24 hours was also investigated. The results of K/S obtained are represented in Figure 6. A,B and C for pastes prepared using 1,2 and 3% respectively. It is clear from Figure 5 that in all cases, i.e. for all the investigated blends irrespective the concentration of NaOH used there is a decrease in the K/S by storing of the pastes for 24 hours. However, the magnitude of % decrease depends on both the concentration of NaOH used and also in the composition and nature the blended fabric. Figure 6(A,B&C): Comparison between the effect of storing pastes containing 1,2,& 3 % NaOH on the K/S of the blended fabrics. 0 10 K/S A 1%NaOH Fresh & Stored Fresh Stored 0 10 K/S B 2% NaOH Fresh & Stored Fresh Stored 0 5 10 K/S C 3% NaOH Fresh & Stored Fresh Stored
  • 9. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 14|P a g e Tensile strength Table IV represent the effect of burn-out printing under the current technique using different pastes isolated using 1,2 and 3% of sodium hydroxide on tensile strength. It is clear from the data that subjecting the current blends to burn-out printing style using pastes containing different amount of sodium hydroxide has a remarkable effect on the tensile strength of the blend. However, the magnitude of effect depends on the nature of the component of the fabric. Table IV: Effect of storing the pastes treated with1,2&3 % NaOH on the Tensile strength of the printed blends. Fabric used Concentration of NaOH used in paste preparation Blank 1% 2% 3% Stress Strain Stress Strain Stress Strain Stress Strain Wool % 0.528 25.001 0.525 25.500 0.378 15.500 0.382 18.250 Cotton/ polyester (50/50) 3.435 6.750 3.263 7.000 3.229 7.250 3.115 6.750 Wool/Nylon(60/40) 0.686 20.250 0.407 22.750 0.376 21.250 0.269 21.250 Wool/Polyester (55/45) 1.836 19.000 1.772 19.500 1.756 19.000 1.598 17.750 Linen/Polyester (80/20) 1.177 10.500 1.167 9.750 0.623 10.250 0.577 11.000 Stress: stress at auto break (kgf/mm2) Strain: at auto break (%) In all cases, regardless of the nature of the blend, the tensile strength of original blend, i.e. before subjecting to burn-out printing is higher than the printed blend. As the concentration of sodium hydroxide increases, the magnitude of decrease in tensile strength was increases too. However, the % decrease in tensile strength increases by increasing the % of protenic portion, the opposite holds true in case of cellulosic blends. For example in case of wool/nylon, it decreases from 0.686 kgf/mm2 to 0.407 kgf/mm2 to 0.376 kgf/mm2 to 0.269 kgf/mm2, while in case of cotton/polyester (50/50) it decreases from 3.435 kgf/mm2 to 3.265 kgf/mm2 to 3.229 kgf/mm2 to 3.115 kgf/mm2 for the original blend and after printing with pastes containing 1,2 and 3% sodium hydroxide respectively. The data of table IV is expected since it is well known that sodium hydroxide has a remarkable effect on both wool and nylon and a less effect on cellulosic and polyester fabrics. IV. Conclusion - Both eco-friendly galactomannan gum and safety natural dye could be isolated successfuly from tara seeds simultaneously in one step process using different concentrations of sodium hydroxide. - The isolated pastes are characterized by non- Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, and its apparent viscosity depends on the concentration of sodium hydroxide as well as time of storing. - The isolated pastes could be used successfully as screen printing pastes and burn-out paste simultaneously. - The effect of burn-out printing pastes on the hydrolysis and decomposition of different blended fabrics was found to be depending on the concentration of sodium hydroxide in the paste and also on the nature of the components of the blend. - Increasing the concentration of sodium hydroxide in the paste is accompanied by an increase in the % loss in weigh. The % decrease in weigh increased by increasing the wool portion in the blend and follows the order: Wool/nylon 60:40> wool 100% > Wool/polyester 55:45 > Wool/polyester 35/65 > Linen/polyester 80:20 > Cotton/ polyester 50:50. - The most optimum concentrations of sodium hydroxide in order to extract both natural colour and galactomannan gum was 3%. - The self coloured printing pastes isolated could successfully be applied to print both protenic and/or cellulosic fabrics. However, the K/S on protenic fabrics is higher than that of cellulosic one. - Unique colour and attractive texture could be achieved using the current technique depending on the nature and constituent of the blend. - As the concentration of sodium hydroxide increases the % loss in tensile strength decreases, specially for woolen blends. However the % decrease in tensile strength is not high and satisfactory for industrial application. REFERENCES [1.] L. W. C. Miles;"Textile Printing", Society of Dyers and Colourists, England, 2nd Ed. (1994). [2.] Kinnersly-Tayor, J.,. Dyeing and screen- Printing on Textiles. A and C Black Publishers, London, UK., 176(2003). [3.] 3-V A Bell, Review of printing (Ilkley:IWS, 1986)
  • 10. J. I. Abd –El Thalouth Int. Journal of Engineering Research and Applications www.ijera.com ISSN: 2248-9622, Vol. 6, Issue 2, (Part - 1) February 2016, pp.06-15 www.ijera.com 15|P a g e [4.] Grigoriu, A., Costea, E., Bertea, A. & Homutescu, J., „Embroidry (burn-out) printing of cellulosic blends‟, Textile- Pielarie, 35/39 (1-2), pp.81-90(1989). [5.] Hall, J.E., 2007. The Art and Emboidery of Jane Hall: Reflections of Nature. Search Press, UK., ISBN- 13: 9781844480388, pp:34-36. [6.] Smith, Sue Wagner, (Ciba-Geigy); Am. Dyestuff Reporter. (9), 32 (1991). [7.] Li ZhGuo, Wu Hao, Yan WenYun, Xia Dingjiu; [8.] Forest Research, Beijing. Chinese Academy of Forestry, Beijing, China: 15, (4), 474-478 (2002). [9.] F.A. Ahmed; Bulletin-of-Faculty-of- Agriculture, Cairo University; 54 (1): 93- 110 (2003). [10.] R. L. Whistler and J. N. BeMiller; "Industrial Gums" 3rd Ed., Academic Press Inc., New York, London, Tokyo, p. 2, 194, 215-218 (1993). [11.] J. S. Rogers and C. W. Beebe; J. Am. Leather Chem. Assoc, 36, 525 (1949). [12.] E. Anderson; Ind. Eng. Chem., 41, 2887 (1949). [13.] L. A. Buffington, E. S. Stevens, E. R. Morris, and D. A. Rees; Int. J. Biol. Macromol., 2, 199 (1980). [14.] I. C. M. Dea, E. R. Morris, D. A. Rees, E. J. Welsh, H. A. Barnes, and J. Price; Carbohyd. Res., 57, 249 (1977). [15.] Judd, D.B., & Wyszecki, H. (1975). Color in Busince Science and Industry. (3rd ed.). John Wiley and Sons. [16.] S. Sostar Turk and R. Schneider; Dyes and Pigments, 39, 211-221 (1998). [17.] R. B. Chavan; Colourage; 42 (4), 27 (1995). [18.] N. Gogoi and B. Kalita; Colourage 46 (1), 23 (1999). [19.] K.Nandhini Venugopal et al / International Journal of Pharma Sciences and Research (IJPSR) Vol.1(1), 28-39 (2010). [20.] Farahnaky, A., Darabzadeh, N.,et ai, “ InsideFood Symposium” Leuven, Belgium , 9-12 April (2013) [21.] J.W.Frich, W.A.Reves and J.D. Goutheric, Text.Res.J, 27, 294 (1957). [22.] H.H.Mosher Text. Res. J. 29, 88 (1959). [23.] J.A. Maclaren, and B. Milligan, Wool Science: “The Chemical Reactivity of Fibre” Science Press N.S.W., 95, 181 (1981). [24.] R.T.O. Connor, “Industrial analysis of Cotton Cellulose and Modified Cotton Cellulose” Marcel, New York 3, p. 160 (1972). [25.] J. Gordoncook, “Hand Book of Textiles Fibers”, 4th Edition, Merrow Publishing Co. England, p. 354 (1968).