The document provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the front LCD assembly on an iPhone 4. It details removing over 30 individual components, including screws, plates, cables, and frames. Special care is emphasized to avoid using flathead screwdrivers that could damage delicate parts, and to keep components organized during disassembly and reassembly. Proper techniques are outlined to prevent water damage indicators from being disturbed and cables from being detached or torn.
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IPHONE 4 GSM LCD REPLACEMENT GUIDE
1.
2. TOOLS YOU WILL NEED
•
Regular iPhone 3.8 mm Phillips Screw Driver, or the .8 bit driver from
your toolkit
•
Spudger!
•
Guitar pick, plastic pry tools, anything that can be used to gently pry up
on the glass and other parts
•
Heat Gun
•
Replacement parts and other pieces
•
Clean surface, preferably a static matt
•
Canned air for cleaning
•
Hand Vacuum
•
Sim card removal tool
3. REPLACING THE FRONT LCD ASSEMBLY
There is two different versions of the iPhone 4, one is a
CDMA version that’s used for carriers like Sprint and Verizon
The other version is for GSM carriers, ones that have a sim
card in order to get service. The iPhone 4 has very distinct
differences when it comes to repair. First we will do the GSM
5. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
6. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
7. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover,
these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
8. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
9. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
10. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
11. REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY
Make sure to:
• Remove the sim card tray properly, you do not want to push to hard
and bend or break the metal lever on the inside.
• Always do this before attempting to take anything else out of the
phone, the sim card tray also works to hold the board into place, and
you can damage the copper points if removal is too hard.
12. REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON
SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY.
Make sure to:
• Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is
different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head.
• When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the
plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is
which.
13. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the
left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when
removing the other pieces.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative
effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
14. REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN
Make sure to:
• Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin
hole that holds it into place.
• When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
15. REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE DOCK SCREW
Make sure to:
• Remove the screw carefully, and remember that it is a completely
unique screw from the others inside of the assembly of the phone,
keep it with the other screws that connect the board to the mid frame,
in order from bottom to the top.
16. REMOVE THE BOARD SOCKET HEAT PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws Is unique and serves a
specific purpose on the integrity of the build of the phone.
• When removing, start from the left, and then pull the plate out
carefully, aligning it to the layout of the screws, so you do not forget
what point they go in, they are not all the same size either.
17. REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE TOP
BOARD SOCKETS AND THE ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up and down, making sure not the bend the plate in
anyway, as bending it can cause the LCD assembly to sit improperly
inside of the phone.
• Place it in a neat and organized manner with the screws so that
everything lines up correctly for re-assembly.
18. REMOVING THE CAMERA AND RIBBON FLEX
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up on the ribbon flex, sometimes the two layers can
come undone, and cause the camera to come apart, and you will
not be able to put it back on.
• Clean the camera as you pull it out with compressed air for dust.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER.
19. REMOVE THE MID BOARD SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check the other water damage indicator strip, it actually covers the
screw and will need to stay on the screw, so carefully unscrew it
without damaging the indicator
• This is the main screw for holding the board to the mid-frame
20. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Remember that this part is a little tricky, each ribbon flex has a specific duty, and
needs to stay in the correct order in order to reassembly the phone.
• The red ribbon flex is for the digitizer ribbon, pry upwards from the bottom
• The orange ribbon is the LCD ribbon, pry up from the bottom right side
• The yellow ribbon is for the Head phone jack and the volume key ribbon, pry from the
top
• The green ribbon is for the top microphone/on-off button, pry from the top
21. REMOVE THE TOP BOARD BRACE SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a flathead mini screwdriver, this one is very integral to keeping
the board in place, and is also used for a thread for one of the screws
for the plate that covers the main ribbons and the sockets.
22. REMOVING THE IPHONE 4 BOARD FROM FRAME
Make sure to:
• Remember that the sim card tray must be removed before taking the
board out.
• Life from the bottom and up, making sure not to damage the copper
prong that is on the top of the board.
• Once you life it up from the bottom, pull it back from the bottom to
23. REMOVE THE BOTTOM SPEAKER ASSEMBLY SCREW
Make sure to:
• Carefully unscrew it, and make sure that you do not damage the copper plate holder,
as this helps hold the assembly down.
• Pull the black speaker housing after you have unscrewed it from the right side and
pull up and out.
• Make sure to clean and not damage the metal prongs on the top of the assembly,
these prongs help hold it into place.
24. REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR
Make sure to:
• Remember that the red screw is a longer screw that holds the vibrate
motor and the headphone jack in the same place at the same time.
• The orange circled screw holds the vibrate motor to the metal frame
so that it doesn’t shake around inside of the phone.
25. REMOVE THE TOP RIGHT CORNER FRAME SCREW
Make sure to:
• Remove this screw, it is ¼ and they are all the same size.
• It is easier to start with this one first because it appears right after you
remove the vibrate motor.
• Keep it organized and layed out, although all 4 screws are the same
size so they do not have to go from where they came from.
26. REMOVE THE VOLUME KEY FRAME SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Remove these screws carefully.
• Keep them all together they are all the same size, but will not fit any
other screw thread correctly, so you do not want to incorrectly put
them together.
27. REMOVE THE BOTTOM RIGHT CORNER SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep this with the other screw from the top right side
• Look to the left of the screw in the opposite corner, we will remove that
one next.
28. REMOVE THE BOTTOM LEFT CORNER SCREW
Make sure to:
• KEEP THIS WITH THE OTHER CORNER SCREWS
• Sometimes you have to move the board around, making the bottom the
top in order to correctly remove it without stripping it.
• These screws are important in keeping the LCD on the frame, so do
not lose them! Always replace them if one is lost, NO MISSING
29. REMOVE ADDITIONAL FRAME AND CORNER
SCREW
Make sure to:
• Start from the bottom screw circled in red, these go with the other screws and there is
three more on the opposite side of the frame that need to be removed
• The top orange screw is for the corner and needs to be completely removed
• To save time, just unscrew the six mid-frame screws slightly so that they uncover the
brackets for the LCD display and keep them on the frame itself.
30. REMOVING THE LCD FROM THE MIDFRAME
Make sure to:
• Heat up the edge of the display slightly, just to get the adhesive to
rise up a tiny bit, the start with your plastic pry tool and push up,
making a gap between the LCD and the mid frame.
• Never use a flathead, you can scratch the mid-frame.
• Don’t try for a huge gap, just enough to pull it out with your hands
31. REMOVE THE LCD FROM THE MID-FRAME
Make sure to:
• Pull gently, you don’t want to rip it off.
• Start from the top side and route the LCD and digitizer cables through
the hole in the mid frame, make sure not to snag it on any of the other
flex ribbon heads
32. CLEANING THE COMPLETE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Clean the mid-frame bezel with the green side of the sponge,
this keeps the brush metal look going, and makes the phone
look better then it did when it came in! It also helps take off
some of the adhesive that may be left on the bezel.
33. PUTTING NEW LCD ASSEMBLY ON
Make sure to:
• Completely remove the tape from the backside of the new LCD
assembly.
• This tape is used for the heatsink sheet that’s on the back of the
LCD, if it gets scratched, you will be able to see it through the LCD
when the phone is on.
34. ROUTING THE DIGITIZER AND LCD CABLES
Make sure to:
• Turn the phone upside down, then route the two cables through the hole in the midframe.
• Then stretch the cables out gently so that all of the cable is through and it does not
hang up
• Make sure the home button is on and aligned, and then line the brackets up on the
35. FINISHING TOUCHES
•
Now that we have the LCD in place, start with rescrewing the corner
screws back into their place, as these are some of the main screws that
hold the assembly into place.
•
Then start tightening the middle bezel screws into place, make sure that
there is no gaps in between the frame and the LCD, go slow, double
checking all around the assembly so that nothing can get in the way,
and that there is nothing that is causing a gap.
•
Make sure the home button is in the correct position the whole time,
making sure that it is flush with the new LCD assembly, we want it to
look like it was before it was broken, only better!
•
Now that we have all the main screws for the display into place, start
from the end of the disassembly instructions, and reassemble the
phone taking everything into consideration and getting all of the correct
qualities for a good repair!
37. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
38. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
39. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover,
these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
40. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
41. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
42. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
43. REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW
Make sure to:
• Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a
completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for
the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection
services
• Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
44. REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and
the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will
render the device inoperable.
• Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry
tool
45. REMOVE THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you
may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out,
as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with.
• Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to
cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
46. REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER
PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into
another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you
vigorously unscrew the top one
• Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing,
they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
47. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the
socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon
will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off.
• Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the
ot
48. UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so
bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly
will have to be replaced.
49. REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you
are removing
• Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable,
and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very
important.
50. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not
want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if
tugged to hard.
• The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which
will make it hard to put it back on.
51. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the
3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will
work perfectly, you do not want to strip them
• When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of
the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
52. REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon
flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will
separate into two pieces, and will no longer function.
• Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its
housing.
53. REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are
delicate!
• The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom
• The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right.
• The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side.
• The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left
• The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
54. REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM
Make sure to:
• Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the
black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep
• This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the
correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
55. REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE
BOARD
Make sure to:
• Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it
servers a purpose.
• Easy step, pull it out and move on.
56. REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use
a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
57. REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD
SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the
right of the where the camera housing is.
• Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of
the screw.
• Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
58. REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND
UNCOVERED SCREW
Make sure to:
• Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is
sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board.
• The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as
the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
59. REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will
not be too difficult when putting the phone back together.
• The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place
• Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
60. REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove
the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to
pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging
the motor.
• Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
61. REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING
FINGER
Make sure to:
• Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and
helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
62. REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR
Make sure to:
• Remove this if you havent already done so. It is glued to the frame
with adhesive and sometimes can be difficult to remove, but needs to
be in a specific position when reassembled.
• Not bend the copper spring plate, if you notice there is an alignment
box that shows where it will be place during reassembly.
63. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSE SCREWS AND
ALIGNMENT PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remove the plate and screw on the left side, the black plastic plate is
used to correctly position the speaker house, and needs to be there
during reassembly, the left screw is larger so keep it with the plate.
• Organize the screw layout correctly next to the speaker house piece.
64. REMOVE THE BLACK TAPE OVER THE TOP LEFT
CORNER DISPLAY FOUNDATION SCREW
Make sure to:
• Try and keep this black tape, it has no use other then to hide the
screw itself and provide a little more support for the display assembly
that hooks into It.
65. REMOVE THE TOP LEFT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY
CORNER SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same
place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
66. REMOVE THE TOP RIGHT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY
CORNER SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same place
so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
67. REMOVE THE BOTTOM RIGHT DISPLAY
ASSEMBLY CORNER SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same
place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
68. REMOVE THE BOTTOM LEFT DISPLAY ASSEMBLY
CORNER SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep this screw, along with the other corner screws in the same
place so that they do not get mixed up with the other screws.
69. LOOSEN THE LEFT SIDE VOLUME KEY FRAME
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• If you are going to completely remove these screws, make sure the
washers are with every single screw, if they are not you can create a
gap between the frame and the LCD
• There is 6 frame screws in total, loosening them is the easiest way to do
it.
70. LOOSEN THE RIGHT SIDE FRAME SCREWS
Make sure to:
• If you are going to completely remove these screws, make sure the
washers are with every single screw, if they are not you can create a
gap between the frame and the LCD
• There is 6 frame screws in total, loosening them is the easiest way to
do it.
71. HEAT THE DISPLAY EDGE, AND PRY THE LCD
ASSEMBLY OFF THE MID FRAME
Make sure to:
• Lightly heat up the edges of the display, there is only a small amount
of adhesive, but it will help to cleanly pull the display all the way off
• Start from the top, and slowly make your way round the edges of the
display, using a plastic pry tool to move the display up and off.
72. PUTTING ON THE NEW DISPLAY ASSEMBLY
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Stare by cleaning the mid-frame bezel with the green side of a sponge, this just cleans the look
of the phone up, and helps take off some of the adhesive.
Line the display assembly up correctly, make sure that the new assembly has the speaker
mesh included, if not, pull it off with tweezers on the other part, and lightly glue or tape it to the
new assembly.
Make sure when pulling the LCD and digitizer ribbon through the small mid-frame whole that
you route it correctly and pull it all the way through, or when you put the board in, the ribbons
will not align up with the sockets.
Line up all of the brackets and securely by pressure on the display as you put it down, but
make sure you remove the back LCD tape that covers the foil layer.
Once you have the display in place, connect the corner display assembly screws, screw them
in, then tighten the 6 mid-frame screws to secure the whole LCD.
Check for gaps and dust through out the LCD tightening process, we want the phone to look
brand new with no mistakes.
Once you have it on, work backwards from the provided steps to make sure that all of the parts
are correctly reassembled on the phone.
74. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
75. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
76. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back
cover, these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
77. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
78. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
79. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
80. REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON
SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY.
Make sure to:
• Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is
different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head.
• When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the
plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is
which.
81. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the
left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when
removing the other pieces.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative
effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
82. REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN
Make sure to:
• Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin
hole that holds it into place.
• When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
83. REMOVE BOTTOM SPEAKER HOUSING DOCK
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Remember that these two screws are different sizes. So make sure to
correctly lay them out when you are taking the speaker housing
assmebly so that you know which side each screw goes too.
84. REMOVE THE RIBBON FROM THE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Remember that we are not completely pulling up the dock
assembly yet, but we are getting the ribbon off the adhesive pad on
the frame.
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger, but not a flathead.
85. REMOVE THE DOCK ASSEMBLY SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Remove these screws carefully, sometimes moisture can cause
them to lock into place, and you wont be able to repair the phone
properly.
• Use the proper screw head, the #00 Phillips and slowly unscrew
them so they do not strip, organize them together with the rest of
86. REMOVE THE SPEAKER FLEX RIBBON FROM
JAW LOCK
Make sure to:
• Use the pick end of the spudger, push up on the jaw lock (FPC
LOCK) and then pull the ribbon out with a pair of tweezers.
• This way we can pull the part out correctly, so that we do not
damage the ribbon when pushing it back into the jaw lock, leave
the FPC lock in the upwards position.
87. START TO REMOVE THE DOCK FLEX ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pry up with the spudger, although we are replacing this
assembly, the better condition we leave it in, the better the recycling
buy back we can receive.
88. REMOVE THE RUBBER MICROPHONE HOUSING
Make sure to:
• Remember not to tear or break the rubber housing, we will be reusing
it when we reinsert the microphone and dock flex into the phone.
89. PULL THE ENTIRE DOCK FLEX OFF THE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Attempt to keep the dock in the best possible shape that you can, the
more internal parts we keep, the more per pound we can get when
we recycle the used or broken materials.
90. REMOVING THE RUBBER HOUSING FROM THE
DOCK ASSEMBLY FOR THE MICROPHONE
Make sure to:
• Be very careful when you remove the individual microphone
housing, because there is a slight adhesive on the bottom of the
microphone plate that holds it into place, we do not want to break
or tear the rubber, as we will be reusing in.
91. PUTTING THE NEW DOCK ASSEMBLY ON
•
Now that we have the old dock flex off, remove the various plastic
adhesive protection strips from the four spots on the new dock
•
Take the rubber microphone cover and slide it over the flat microphone
piece on the right side of the dock, make sure that it is correctly in
place, and the entire microphone is covered.
•
Insert the dock flex into place, making sure to align it correctly with the
screw holes on either side of the metal bracket that holds the 30 pin
contacts, and make sure that it it flush with the bottom edge, so that the
30 pin cable can correctly connect into the device.
•
Screw in the two screws and make sure that all of the adhesive sections
are pushed down and stuck in their proper alignment.
•
Replace the speaker house assembly block, and then continue to
reassemble the phone by following the previous slides from the back to
the front.
93. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
94. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
95. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover,
these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
96. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
97. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
98. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
99. REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW
Make sure to:
• Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a
completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for
the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection
services
• Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
100. REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and
the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will
render the device inoperable.
• Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry
tool
101. REMOVE THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you
may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out,
as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with.
• Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to
cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
102. REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER
PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into
another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you
vigorously unscrew the top one
• Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing,
they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
103. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the
socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon
will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off.
• Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the
ot
104. UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so
bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly
will have to be replaced.
105. REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you
are removing
• Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable,
and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very
important.
106. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not
want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if
tugged to hard.
• The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which
will make it hard to put it back on.
107. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the
3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will
work perfectly, you do not want to strip them
• When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of
the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
108. REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon
flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will
separate into two pieces, and will no longer function.
• Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its
housing.
109. REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are
delicate!
• The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom
• The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right.
• The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side.
• The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left
• The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
110. REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM
Make sure to:
• Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the
black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep
• This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the
correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
111. REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE
BOARD
Make sure to:
• Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it
servers a purpose.
• Easy step, pull it out and move on.
112. REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use
a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
113. REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD
SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the
right of the where the camera housing is.
• Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of
the screw.
• Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
114. REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND
UNCOVERED SCREW
Make sure to:
• Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is
sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board.
• The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as
the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
115. REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will
not be too difficult when putting the phone back together.
• The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place
• Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
116. REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove
the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to
pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging
the motor.
• Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
117. REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING
FINGER
Make sure to:
• Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and
helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
118. REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR
Make sure to:
• Remove this if you havent already done so. It is glued to the frame
with adhesive and sometimes can be difficult to remove, but needs to
be in a specific position when reassembled.
• Not bend the copper spring plate, if you notice there is an alignment
box that shows where it will be place during reassembly.
119. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSE SCREWS AND
ALIGNMENT PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remove the plate and screw on the left side, the black plastic plate is
used to correctly position the speaker house, and needs to be there
during reassembly, the left screw is larger so keep it with the plate.
• Organize the screw layout correctly next to the speaker house piece.
120. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Pull upwards and remove the housing carefully, and make sure that
the pinion for the antenna has been removed so it does not tear or rip
when pulling it out.
121. REMOVING THE JAW LOCK RIBBON FLEX
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to pull the FPC (jaw Lock) in an upwards
position so that we can pull the home button ribbon flex out of the
lock,
122. REMOVING THE HOME BUTTON RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Always use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon out, grab it from the
large square section, as this will give you the best leverage, and the
odds of tearing the ribbon decrease.
• Pull it out, and make sure to leave it in a place that wont let it get
trapped underneath the new dock when you install
123. REMOVING THE RUBBER MICROPHONE
HOUSING
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or rubber tipped tweezers set, as this needs to
remain intact so that we can move it over to the new dock assembly
microphone.
124. REMOVE THE DOCK ASSEMBLY SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Remember that these two screws are the same size, and are designed
to hold the dock assembly to the mid frame.
• Make sure not to strip them, sometimes they can lock up from
moisture, so go slow, keep it tight and keep them together.
125. REMOVING SPACING BRACKET FOR ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Check if this is their, sometimes if the phone is repaired, this part is missing.
• Remove with a pair of tweezers and place it near the speaker housing and screws
• This is used to keep the assembly from coming loose from pulling the charging cable
in and out of the connecter pins.
126. REMOVE THE DOCK ASSEMBLY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the adhesive from the bottom of the assembly with a plastic pry tool, or the
spudger.
• There is adhesive under the left had side, and two points of adhesive on the bottom
right side that hold it down in an addition to the two screws.
127. REPLACING THE ASSEMBLY WITH A NEW DOCK
•
Now that we have the whole dock out, make sure to adhere the rubber
microphone housing over the new microphone on the bottom right hand
side.
•
Make sure to put the FPC (jaw) lock in the upwards position
•
Align the dock correctly with the connecter input hole, making sure to
push down on the new adhesive to make it stick into place. Test it by
holding it down with your left hand, thumb pushing on the metal
rectangle where the connecters are, and try to push a charging cable
into the connector.
•
Now that you have it aligned, the home button inside of the lock, the
micrphone casing inside of the right hand housing caddy, and the
adhesive pushed down., screw the two dock assembly screws in and re
test the charging cable again.
•
Follow the disassembly backwards, making sure to put the left side
bracket in place before assembly the speaker housing.
129. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
130. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
131. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back
cover, these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
132. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
133. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
134. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
135. REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY
Make sure to:
• Remove the sim card tray properly, you do not want to push to hard
and bend or break the metal lever on the inside.
• Always do this before attempting to take anything else out of the
phone, the sim card tray also works to hold the board into place, and
you can damage the copper points if removal is too hard.
136. REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON
SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY.
Make sure to:
• Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is
different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head.
• When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the
plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is
which.
137. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the
left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when
removing the other pieces.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative
effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
138. REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN
Make sure to:
• Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin
hole that holds it into place.
• When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
139. REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE DOCK SCREW
Make sure to:
• Remove the screw carefully, and remember that it is a completely
unique screw from the others inside of the assembly of the phone,
keep it with the other screws that connect the board to the mid frame,
in order from bottom to the top.
140. REMOVE THE BOARD SOCKET HEAT PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws Is unique and serves a
specific purpose on the integrity of the build of the phone.
• When removing, start from the left, and then pull the plate out
carefully, aligning it to the layout of the screws, so you do not forget
what point they go in, they are not all the same size either.
141. REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE TOP
BOARD SOCKETS AND THE ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up and down, making sure not the bend the plate in
anyway, as bending it can cause the LCD assembly to sit improperly
inside of the phone.
• Place it in a neat and organized manner with the screws so that
everything lines up correctly for re-assembly.
142. REMOVING THE CAMERA AND RIBBON FLEX
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up on the ribbon flex, sometimes the two layers can
come undone, and cause the camera to come apart, and you will
not be able to put it back on.
• Clean the camera as you pull it out with compressed air for dust.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER.
143. REMOVE THE MID BOARD SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check the other water damage indicator strip, it actually covers the
screw and will need to stay on the screw, so carefully unscrew it
without damaging the indicator
• This is the main screw for holding the board to the mid-frame
144. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Remember that this part is a little tricky, each ribbon flex has a specific duty, and
needs to stay in the correct order in order to reassembly the phone.
• The red ribbon flex is for the digitizer ribbon, pry upwards from the bottom
• The orange ribbon is the LCD ribbon, pry up from the bottom right side
• The yellow ribbon is for the Head phone jack and the volume key ribbon, pry from the
top
• The green ribbon is for the top microphone/on-off button, pry from the top
145. REMOVE THE TOP BOARD BRACE SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a flathead mini screwdriver, this one is very integral to keeping
the board in place, and is also used for a thread for one of the screws
for the plate that covers the main ribbons and the sockets.
146. REMOVING THE IPHONE 4 BOARD FROM FRAME
Make sure to:
• Remember that the sim card tray must be removed before taking the
board out.
• Life from the bottom and up, making sure not to damage the copper
prong that is on the top of the board.
• Once you life it up from the bottom, pull it back from the bottom to
147. REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR
Make sure to:
• Remember that the red screw is a longer screw that holds the vibrate
motor and the headphone jack in the same place at the same time.
• The orange circled screw holds the vibrate motor to the metal frame
so that it doesn’t shake around inside of the phone.
148. REMOVE THE EARPIECE FROM THE RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the silver rectangle earpiece, there should be two
copper prongs that point upwards, they connect to points on the board that make the
earpiece activate.
• There is adhesive on the bottom, so go slow so that we can reuse it again, if not get
ready to use it again.
149. REMOVING THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Gently unscrew these, sometimes the plastic cradle can snap if you
unscrew them incorrectly, and we need it for the new ribbon when we
install the power button.
• Keep the screws organized, these are different from every other
screw set.
150. REMOVE THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE
Make sure to:
• Check the alignment of the metal pop cap, sometimes the home
button doesn’t need to be replace, the pop cap just needs to be
realigned with the metal home button, then it will work again. If it
looks even and straight, pull up on the cradle and keep it out of the
rear case.
151. REMOVE THE HEADPHONE JACK ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Use a pair of tweezers to evenly pull the head phone jack out of its
position, sometimes when you pull it out, the ribbon may break, this
is fine, the new assembly has a new headphone jack.
• Try not to pry the rest of the ribbon up at this point, only the
headphone jack
152. PULL THE ADHESIVE FOR THE COMPLETE
RIBBON OUT OF THE REAR CASE
Make sure to:
• Pull from the strip right below the gold additional microphone block that is to the left of
the had phone jack and above the front facing camera.
• There is a tight space, and the adhesive on the bottom of the micrphone makes it
hard to pull out, but use a pair of tweezers and get a really good grip on it and pull the
rest of the ribbon up.
153. REMOVE THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE FROM
THE RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the pop cap assembly and all of the
adhesive from the power button cradle in order to reuse the cradle.
• Make sure you clean all of the adhesive from the cradle, we don’t
want any extra pressure or added left on the pop cap, or the power
button will feel very hard to push.
154. PUTTING TOGETHER THE NEW POWER BUTTON
RIBBON AND REINSTALLING AND REASSEMBLY
•
Now that we have the power button cradle remove from the old ribbon, lets wrap the new
ribbon power button around the cradle, making sure that all of the plastic adhesive covers are
removed so that the pop cap will sit on the cradle perfectly.
•
Align it in the direct center of the cradle so that when the power button hits the pop cap, it
slaps back into place correctly
•
Make sure to push the actual steel power button all the way through the whole that way it will
sit correctly.
•
Take the power button assembly ribbon with the power button cradle, screw the two power
button screws in place, and push down on the adhesive so that the cable is glued to the rear
case
•
Make sure to slide the top microphone into the caddy where it was remove, pushing it all the
way down with a pry tool so that it does not rip.
•
Now that we have the assembly in place, cut a small square of adhesive out and place it under
the earpiece and push it down into the correct position, making sure the copper prongs are
pointing up
•
Now we can continue to reassemble the phone, working backwards from the disassembly step.
•
DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING! ONCE INSTALLED MAKE SURE THE POWER BUTTON FEELS
PERFECT!
156. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
157. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
158. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover,
these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
159. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
160. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
161. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
162. REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW
Make sure to:
• Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a
completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for
the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection
services
• Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
163. REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and
the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will
render the device inoperable.
• Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry
tool
164. REMOVE THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you
may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out,
as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with.
• Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to
cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
165. REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER
PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into
another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you
vigorously unscrew the top one
• Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing,
they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
166. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the
socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon
will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off.
• Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the
ot
167. UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so
bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly
will have to be replaced.
168. REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you
are removing
• Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable,
and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very
important.
169. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not
want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if
tugged to hard.
• The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which
will make it hard to put it back on.
170. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the
3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will
work perfectly, you do not want to strip them
• When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of
the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
171. REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon
flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will
separate into two pieces, and will no longer function.
• Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its
housing.
172. REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are
delicate!
• The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom
• The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right.
• The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side.
• The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left
• The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
173. REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM
Make sure to:
• Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the
black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep
• This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the
correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
174. REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE
BOARD
Make sure to:
• Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it
servers a purpose.
• Easy step, pull it out and move on.
175. REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use
a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
176. REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD
SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the
right of the where the camera housing is.
• Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of
the screw.
• Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
177. REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND
UNCOVERED SCREW
Make sure to:
• Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is
sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board.
• The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as
the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
178. REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will
not be too difficult when putting the phone back together.
• The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place
• Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
179. REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove
the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to
pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging
the motor.
• Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
180. REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING
FINGER
Make sure to:
• Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and
helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
181. REMOVING THE EARPIECE ASSEMBLY
Make sure to;
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the adhesive, you don’t want to use a
metal flathead screw driver, the ESD charge can sometimes damage
the earpiece and then it wont work.
• Try not to damage the copper prongs, pry up the adhesive and pull
the earpiece up and out of the rear case.
182. REMOVE THE POWER BUTTON CRADLE SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Gently unscrew these, we do not want to crack or break the cradle, and
we also don’t want to strip the screws or damage the threads on the
rear case.
• Pull them out and keep them together, they are the perfect size for the
power button and we don’t want to use any other screws for the
183. REMOVE THE VOID BRACKET FOR THE
EARPIECE
Make sure to:
• Remove this by prying up with a plastic pry tool, it is used to keep the
earpiece centered so that it hits the contact on the board correctly for
it to work, try not to snap or break it, it is connected to the rear case
and is sometimes not necessary to remove.
184. REMOVE THE RIBBON ASSEMBLY FROM THE
REAR CASE
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to get underneath the square ribbon block that
the earpiece sits on, this is glued to the rear case and needs to be
pulled up all at once, once you get all the adhesive unstuck, the
whole ribbon should pop off the rear case.
185. REMOVE THE POP CAP FROM THE POWER
BUTTON CRADLE
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the pop cap sensor from the power
button bracket, we need to reuse the bracket in order to correctly be
able to put the new power button into place
186. REPLACING THE NEW POWER BUTTON RIBBON
•
Now that we have the power button cradle, the earpiece and the ribbon
separated from the actual phone, were going to go in and add the cradle
to the new pop cap, put the new ribbon in place, and then put down the
ear piece.
•
Take the new ribbon and take off all the protective plastic that covers
the adhesive points, then adhere the new power button cap to the
cradle, make sure it is aligned correctly, keeping it in the middle
horizontal and center vertically. We want to make sure that when you
push down the power button everything snaps back into place correctly.
•
Now insert the power button cradle first, securing the two screws on
each side, then press down on the black square adhesive that the
earpiece sits on top of
•
Make sure all of the adhesive points are pressed down hard on the rear
case
•
Then inset the earpiece, making sure the copper prongs are lifted in the
air, put the board inside the phone and reassemble it follow the
disassembly steps backwards.
188. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
189. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
190. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back
cover, these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
191. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
192. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
193. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
194. REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY
Make sure to:
• Remove the sim card tray properly, you do not want to push to hard
and bend or break the metal lever on the inside.
• Always do this before attempting to take anything else out of the
phone, the sim card tray also works to hold the board into place, and
you can damage the copper points if removal is too hard.
195. REMOVING THE BOTTOM DOCK RIBBON
SCREWS AND THE PLATE ASSEMBLY.
Make sure to:
• Remember that the screw on the left that connects to the mid-frame is
different from the one on the right, it is smaller and has a flatter head.
• When removing the screws, make sure to keep them aligned with the
plate on their appropriate sides so you do not forget which side is
which.
196. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the dock ribbon, and bend it VERY slightly to the
left and out of the way, as sometimes it will get in the way when
removing the other pieces.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER, this can have negative
effects and cause the dock ribbon to stop working, better bust out the
197. REMOVE THE ANTENNA AND SPEAKER PIN
Make sure to:
• Not use a flathead! We do not want to damage the pinion or the pin
hole that holds it into place.
• When you remove it, pull it up and to the right and out of the way.
198. REMOVE THE LEFT SIDE DOCK SCREW
Make sure to:
• Remove the screw carefully, and remember that it is a completely
unique screw from the others inside of the assembly of the phone,
keep it with the other screws that connect the board to the mid frame,
in order from bottom to the top.
199. REMOVE THE BOARD SOCKET HEAT PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws Is unique and serves a
specific purpose on the integrity of the build of the phone.
• When removing, start from the left, and then pull the plate out
carefully, aligning it to the layout of the screws, so you do not forget
what point they go in, they are not all the same size either.
200. REMOVE THE PLATE THAT COVERS THE TOP
BOARD SOCKETS AND THE ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up and down, making sure not the bend the plate in
anyway, as bending it can cause the LCD assembly to sit improperly
inside of the phone.
• Place it in a neat and organized manner with the screws so that
everything lines up correctly for re-assembly.
201. REMOVING THE CAMERA AND RIBBON FLEX
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up on the ribbon flex, sometimes the two layers can
come undone, and cause the camera to come apart, and you will
not be able to put it back on.
• Clean the camera as you pull it out with compressed air for dust.
• DO NOT USE A FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER.
202. REMOVE THE MID BOARD SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check the other water damage indicator strip, it actually covers the
screw and will need to stay on the screw, so carefully unscrew it
without damaging the indicator
• This is the main screw for holding the board to the mid-frame
203. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Remember that this part is a little tricky, each ribbon flex has a specific duty, and
needs to stay in the correct order in order to reassembly the phone.
• The red ribbon flex is for the digitizer ribbon, pry upwards from the bottom
• The orange ribbon is the LCD ribbon, pry up from the bottom right side
• The yellow ribbon is for the Head phone jack and the volume key ribbon, pry from the
top
• The green ribbon is for the top microphone/on-off button, pry from the top
204. REMOVE THE TOP BOARD BRACE SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a flathead mini screwdriver, this one is very integral to keeping
the board in place, and is also used for a thread for one of the screws
for the plate that covers the main ribbons and the sockets.
205. REMOVING THE IPHONE 4 BOARD FROM FRAME
Make sure to:
• Remember that the sim card tray must be removed before taking the
board out.
• Life from the bottom and up, making sure not to damage the copper
prong that is on the top of the board.
• Once you life it up from the bottom, pull it back from the bottom to
206. REMOVE THE VIBRATE MOTOR
Make sure to:
• Remember that the red screw is a longer screw that holds the vibrate
motor and the headphone jack in the same place at the same time.
• The orange circled screw holds the vibrate motor to the metal frame
so that it doesn’t shake around inside of the phone.
207. REMOVE THE BLACK TAPE COVERING THE
VOLUME KEY SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see if it is there first, sometimes if the phone has already
been repaired, it is missing.
• It is not integral to the functionality, and if it is ripped or torn, it will not
degrade the product or assembly in any manner, but always try to
keep it intact for reassembly.
208. REMOVE VIBRATE SWITCH ASSEMBLY SCREWS
AND VOLUME KEY PLATE SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Keep track of each screw, the top red one near the vibrate switch is
integral to keeping the switch in and aligned correctly.
• The orang and yellow screws are different sizes from everything
else as well, and the bottom two screws are the same size, all of
them are needed to keep everything aligned correctly, DON’T
209. REMOVING THE VIBRATE SWITCH BRACKET
COVER
Make sure to:
• Grab a pair of tweezers and pull this bracket off, its what keeps
the vibrate switch in place and popped out so that it can be easily
switch on and off.
• Make sure not to bend the lever arm, and look at the direction it
which it faces, this will help you remember how to put it back on.
210. REMOVE THE RIBBON ASSEMBLY OUT
Make sure to:
• Grab the headphone jack with the pair of tweezers, this is the best
point to pull the whole ribbon off, because we are replacing the whole
ribbon, don’t be scare if any of it rips, just make sure to take it off and
make sure the placement is clean for the new ribbon.
211. REMOVE VIBRATE SWITCH BRACKET CRADLE
AND THE METAL VOLUME BUTTON FRAME
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove it from the actual vibrate switch, it’s the cradle behind
the metal rectangle with the black dongle (the actual vibrate switch) We need the
cradle to be perfectly cleaned for the new ribbon
• Do the same thing for the metal volume button frame, just peel of the pop caps
• We need to reuse both of these pieces for the new ribbon assembly.
212. INSTALLING THE NEW RIBBON AND
REASSEMBLING THE PHONE
•
•
•
•
•
Now that we have vibrate switch cradle, take the new ribbon and make sure
that the switch is on the bottom part of the rectangle, that way when we put
the new bracket in and put the actual vibrate switch into place, it will correctly
move up and down.
The new ribbon assembly should have adhesive on the back of the actual
switch, make sure you press it into the metal cradle correctly, pushing down
hard so that it doesn't’t come off when we assemble the phone. A tiny spot of
glue, literally the size of a pin head can be used as well if your worried it will
come off.
Wrap the new pop caps for the volume keys around the metal frame, keeping
them in their correct position, the new ribbon will guide you on how it sets on
the bracket.
Now take the vibrate switch bracket, the one that goes on the outside of the
vibrate switch cradle, grab the upper screw we took off, put it on the end of
your screw drive and through the arm screw hole, hold the vibrate switch into
place and screw the metal bracket into place, then do the next screw. Test the
vibrate switch and make sure it goes on nice and tight, but maneuvers fluidly
up and down, if it doesn't’t, take it out and do it again
Now assemble the screws for the volume key, sit the headphone jack into
place, making sure it is glued down all the way. Now reassemble the phone
working backwards and make sure to double check all the buttons before
continuing
214. REMOVING THE BOTTOM BEZEL SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Check to see which type of screw your iPhone has on the
bottom, some of the older units use regular #00 screw
heads, and others use the proprietary Apple Pentalobe
screws.
• Try and un-screw these carefully, we do not want to
215. REMOVING THE BACK COVER
Make sure to:
• Slowly slide it up, we do not want to damage the mid frame, or the
plastic frame around the edge of the cover.
• Make sure to place the backing in a protected space, so we do not
damage or scratch the back in any way.
216. REMOVE THE BACK COVER COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Be careful with the black clips on the edge of the back cover,
these are what help keep the back in place.
• As you pull the cover out, check for the water damage icons on
the bottom left above the battery plug in, ALWAYS NOTE
WATER DAMAGE before moving on with the repair in your
217. REMOVE THE BATTERY AND INPUT SOCKET
Make sure to:
• Carefully remove the screw, this is what holds the entire battery input
socket into place during normal falls and wear and tear, not securing
it can cause the phone to become inoperable.
218. REMOVE THE SOCKET FOR THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Carefully pull up with a plastic pry tool or your spudger, DO NOT
USE A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER, this can cause the whole
socket to come up and then the entire board is damaged and has to
be re-soldered on.
• Make sure to remove the black lever that the screw and socket held
219. REMOVE THE BATTERY COMPLETELY
Make sure to:
• Remove the battery using the plastic grip tape that is coming
out of the left side.
• Pull up slowly, there is adhesive on the back, and we do not
want the battery to be completely misshapen.
• Make sure to keep all the components of the battery together!
220. REMOVE THE BATTERY RIBBON SCREW
Make sure to:
• Notice the difference in the layout of the CDMA iPhone 4, it has a
completely different setup because it does not have a GSM slot for
the simcard and instead uses a chip for its cellular connection
services
• Be carefule not to strip this screw, and keep it next to the battery and
221. REMOVE THE BATTERY SOCKET ASSEMBLY
Make sure to:
• Gently pry it up, you do not want it to separate the socket and
the socket connect from the board at the same time, as this will
render the device inoperable.
• Never use a flathead, always use the spudger or a plastic pry
tool
222. REMOVE THE BATTERY
Make sure to:
• Use the provided plastic strip to pry the battery out, sometimes you
may have to use the wedge end of the spudger in order to pull it out,
as the adhesive can sometimes be a little tough to work with.
• Make sure to keep the battery in its original shape, we don’t want it to
cause the back to sit incorrectly on the back of the phone.
223. REMOVING THE DOCK SCREWS AND COVER
PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remove the screws carefully, the one on the right side screws into
another style of screw and can sometimes become jammed if you
vigorously unscrew the top one
• Keep the plate and screws on their respectable sides when removing,
they are only for this plate and cannot be used for anything else.
224. REMOVING THE DOCK RIBBON FROM BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the ribbon from the
socket, sometimes if you pull up to hard, or with a flathead, the ribbon
will be stuck by adhesive and then tear when you take it off.
• Pull it up and to the left to take it out of your way as you work on the
ot
225. UN-PEEL THE DOCK RIBBON FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Peel the ribbon back carefully, sometimes the adhesive is so
bad, the ribbon ends up tearing and the whole dock assembly
will have to be replaced.
226. REMOVE THE PRESSURE ANTENNA SCREW
Make sure to:
• Keep the little black copper tipped swing arm with the screw that you
are removing
• Underneath the swing arm is the bottom speaker house pinion cable,
and this metal arm keeps it held down and in place, so it is very
important.
227. REMOVE THE SPEAKER HOUSING PINION
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove this cable, we do not
want to use a flathead, as sometimes the pin head will come off if
tugged to hard.
• The hole that it attaches to can also be bent and misaligned which
will make it hard to put it back on.
228. REMOVING THE TOP RIBBON PLATE
Make sure to:
• Remember that each one of these screws is a different size, and the
3 colors designate the smaller phillips head size, although a #00 will
work perfectly, you do not want to strip them
• When you remove the plate with the spudger, try to keep the layout of
the screws correct, they all serve a purpose and cannot be
229. REMOVING THE CAMERA FROM THE BOARD
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool or the spudger to remove the camera ribbon
flex from its socket, sometimes if you pry to hard the flex ribbon will
separate into two pieces, and will no longer function.
• Pry it up, then use the flex ribbon to pull the camera out of its
housing.
230. REMOVING THE VARIOUS RIBBON FLEX’S
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool, never use a flat head to remove these flex ribbons, they are
delicate!
• The Green marked ribbon is for the digitizer, pry upwards from the bottom
• The blue marked ribbon is for the LCD, pry up from the right.
• The yellow ribbon is for the front facing camera pry up from the left side.
• The red ribbon is for the headphone jack/volume button, pry up from the left
• The orange ribbon is for the power button, and is the smallest, pry up from the left.
231. REMOVING 1ST METAL BRACKET SWING ARM
Make sure to:
• Remove all the ribbon flex cables first, then unscrew and pull the
black swing arm lever up, and make sure to keep
• This is used to help keep the headphone jack, and the board in the
correct position so DO NOT LOSE IT!
232. REMOVE THE GROUNDING CLIP FROM THE
BOARD
Make sure to:
• Keep ahold of this piece, it may seem minimal, but like always it
servers a purpose.
• Easy step, pull it out and move on.
233. REMOVE THE WI-FI ANTENNA PIN
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to pull the little pin up from its hole-lock, do not use
a flathead, we do not want to damage the pin head.
234. REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE TOP BOARD
SCREW
Make sure to:
• Use a pair of tweezers to uncover the screw that is on the top left of the board to the
right of the where the camera housing is.
• Try not to tear It completely off, but just enough to uncover it and get to the head of
the screw.
• Sometimes if the phone has been repaired, it wont be there, if it isnt, skip this step.
235. REMOVE THE BRACKET SCREW AND
UNCOVERED SCREW
Make sure to:
• Start on the left side, this screw was just uncovered, and is
sometimes missed by technicians when trying to remove the board.
• The screw on the right uses a flat head to be removed, and acts as
the threading for one of the ribbon plate screws.
236. REMOVE THE REMAINING MAINBOARD
SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Keep the correct layout of the screws, making sure that everything is in place and will
not be too difficult when putting the phone back together.
• The one of the vibrate motor is integral, and can sometimes be missed place
• Don’t forget to check the water indicators for any signs of pink! TAKE NOTES!
237. REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE FRAME
Make sure to:
• Start from the bottom and lift upward, you may need to remove
the vibrate motor cylinder during this step, just use a flat head to
pry it off without bending the copper point springs or damaging
the motor.
• Pull up and then pull the board towards the bottom direction.
238. REMOVE THE COPPER CAMERA GROUNDING
FINGER
Make sure to:
• Not to lose this little copper point, its for the camera housing and
helps for grounding the camera to the mid-frame.
239. REMOVE THE UPPER ANTENNA WRAP
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the top antenna wrap that sits
on top of the headphone jack.
• Do not use a flat head screw driver, we need this to stay
intact, go slow and be careful
240. REMOVE THE TOP HEADPHONE JACK SCREW
Make sure to:
• Remove the screw and lay it out in the correct position, this one is
specifically sized for holding the headphone jack into place.
241. REMOVE THE ANTENNA CONTACT POINT ABOVE
THE HEADPHONE JACK
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the antenna contact point that is at
the top right of the phone, directly to the right of headphone jack.
• Try not to rib or damage the antenna contact point.
242. REMOVE THE MICROPHONE PLATE FROM THE
SMALL CADDY ON THE REAR CASE.
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the top microphone plate from its
metal caddy, its ok if it rips off, the new ribbon we are replacing it with
has it installed on it as well
• Make sure to clean all the adhesive out of the caddy so that the new
microphone will sit nice and snug inside of it.
243. REMOVE THE OUTER ANTENNA SCREW
Make sure to:
• Remove the headphone jack assembly first with a plastic pry tool
• Remove this screw gently, we do not want to strip or damage the
threading on the inner case, without this the iPhone will experience
signal loss for data and voice calls. It is located to the right of the
headphone jack after you pull it out.
244. REMOVE THE ENTIRE OUTER ANTENNA CABLE
Make sure to:
• Pull this out in one piece, we do not want it to rip as we are going to
use it again when we put the new ribbon assembly together.
• Keep it next to the outer antenna screw we undid.
245. REMOVE THE VIBRATE SWITCH AND VOLUME
KEY SCREWS
Make sure to:
• Keep all these screws together, they are all the same size and are
imperative when putting the vibrate switch assembly and the volume
key assembly when we put the new ribbon inside of the phone.
246. PULL THE VIBRATE SWITCH/VOLUME
KEY/HEADPHONE JACK ASSEMBLY RIBBON OUT
Make sure to:
• Pull it cleanly off, sometimes using a pry tool first to bring the
adhesive up first helps.
• Make sure the rear case is cleaned so when we put the new ribbon it,
it will sit correctly inside of the phone
247. PULL THE VIBRATE SWITCH CADDY FROM THE
REAR CASE
Make sure to:
• Pull this all the way out, we are going to reuse the metal caddy that
the vibrate switch sits in, so make sure not to bend or break the
caddy.
248. PULL THE ENTIRE CABLE ALL THE WAY OUT
Make sure to:
• Not rip or tear the ribbon and pull it all the way out.
• We do not want any of the ribbon pieces to be in the place where we
are going to put the new ribbon in.
249. REMOVE THE METAL VOLUME KEY FRAME
Make sure to:
• Use a plastic pry tool to remove the volume pop caps from the metal
frame, we are going to reuse it so make sure it is cleaned of adhesive
so nothing will cause tightness on the volume keys when pushed.
250. REMOVE THE VIBRATE SWITCH FROM THE
CADDY
Make sure to:
• Remember that this one is setup a little different then the iPhone 4
GSM model, there isn’t a metal caddy cover that holds it into place,
so the metal caddy itself is what keeps the vibrate switch in its
proper position.
251. ASSEMBLING THE NEW CABLE AND INSTALLING
•
Now that we have the entire cable out of the phone, the outer antenna removed, the
vibrate switch caddy and the volume key frame, we can assemble the new ribbon and
install it
•
There should be adhesive on the volume key pop caps as well as the vibrate switch
caddy.
•
Install the volume key frame making sure to keep it in the correct direction, or the pop
caps will not sit correctly, look at the volume key frame disassembly picture to get a
better view.
•
Use a small, pin sized amount of glue to put the vibrate switch caddy onto the new
vibrate switch, on top of the adhesive that is already on the new ribbon
•
Align the vibrate switch correctly, making sure it is in the down position when inserting
it, then put the screw in and test the vibrate switch to make sure it is tight, in place, and
doesn't’t feel too tough.
•
Now install the headphone jack again, making sure to slide the microphone tab in just to
the left of it, it should be connected already to the headphone jack
•
Now secure the volume key frame and test the buttons!
•
Reassemble the phone working backwards from the disassembly steps.