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14 FITNESSRX AUGUST 2014 www.fitnessrxwomen.com
We are led to believe that freckles are adorable in
children, but freckles are really the first sign of sun
damage. In adults, they are considered “age spots” but they
really have nothing to do with age— only the amount of time
the skin has been exposed to sun. It’s a fact that sunlight is a
major culprit of wrinkles, dryness and age spots with more
than 90 percent of skin aging effects being caused solely by
the sun. Skin health is a representation of our inner health.
Spending all those hours in the gym isn’t going to pay off if
you don’t have gorgeous, glowing, even-toned skin to cover
those toned muscles.
One in five Americans will develop skin cancer during their
lifetime. The evidence is overwhelming that sun exposure
increases the risk of developing skin cancer. While basal cell
cancer is most prevalent and has a higher chance of
disfiguring you rather than shortening your life, melanoma
may be deadly. If you have a new or changing mole, a
“pimple” that won’t go away after a month or two, or
something on your body that looks unlike any other spot, go
see a board-certified dermatologist immediately. Early
detection and treatment is the key to a cure.
ALL SUNSCREENS ARE NOT
CREATED EQUAL
Let’s first take a look at the two most common types of
ultraviolet (UV) rays— UVA and UVB. While both rays can
harm the skin and lead to skin cancers, UVB rays are the
“burning” rays effectively blocked by glass. UVA rays are
deeper penetrating “aging” rays that can pass through glass
and lead to collagen damage, wrinkles and sagging.
Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates how long it will take
for the UVB rays to redden skin when using a sunscreen,
compared to how long skin would take to redden without the
product. For instance, someone using a sunscreen with an
SPF of 15 will take 15 times longer to redden than without
sunscreen. Higher SPF products do not give proportionate
protection— with an SPF 15 screening 93 percent of UVB
rays, an SPF 30 screening 97 percent, and an SPF 50
screening 98 percent. So, an SPF 30 product applied
properly will block about as much UVB as any higher SPF
product.
While SPF rating indicates how well a product will protect
the skin from UVB, there is no current rating
system for UVA protection. There are currently 17 active
ingredients approved by the FDA for use in sunscreens. Some
provide a physical barrier, using minerals, while others
provide a chemical barrier that works by absorbing ultraviolet
rays (UVR). Most are chemical sunscreens, which work by
absorbing the UVR before it penetrates the skin. The longer
you are in the sun, the more quickly these chemicals break
down, becoming ineffective. They also do a poor job at
blocking the UVA rays. The physical sunscreens, zinc oxide
and titanium dioxide, are insoluble particles that effectively
reflect both UVA and UVB away from the skin. The
effectiveness of these products relies solely on how thickly
they are applied. When applied properly, they are excellent at
blocking the entire spectrum of both UVA and UVB rays.
Since most sun damage occurs during the cumulative effect
of UV exposure during daily activities, apply a physical
sunscreen daily first thing every morning. Treat your neck,
chest and the back of your hands daily with your face and
always apply makeup over, not under, sunscreen. Since we
know that UVA penetrates through windows, sunscreen is
mandatory even if you work indoors.
My favorites: EltaMD Physical for daily use and Vanicream
for heavy exercise or water activities. An excellent source for
safety rating systems of hundreds of sunscreens is www.ewg.org.
TOPICAL SKIN CARE TO PREVENT AND
REVERSE SUN DAMAGE
Exfoliate at least twice a week. Getting rid of the top layer
of dead skin allows the skin to better retain moisture,
appearing healthier. Exfoliation can be:
• Physical: using a Clarisonic skin-care brush, exfoliating
cleansing beads, microdermabrasion.
• Chemical: using glycolic, lactic or salicylic acids in
cleansers, topicals or medical peels.
Apply an antioxidant under sunscreen for an added layer of
protection. When used topically, vitamin C and E and
idebenone can scavenge collagen-damaging free radicals and
prevent collagen breakdown, which causes wrinkles.
Other helpful products to reduce skin aging include
peptides, vitamin A (retinol or tretinoin) and growth factors.
HEALTHY SUMMER
SKIN GUIDE
The Lowdown on SPF,
Skin-enhancing Foods and More
FitRxCoolDOWN WOMEN’S HEALTH
l BY JENNIFER T. HALEY, MD, FAAD
AUGUST 2014 FITNESSRX 15www.fitnessrxwomen.com
WOMEN’S HEALTH
REFERENCES
American Academy of Dermatology, www.aad.org.
Gilchrest BA. Skin and aging process. CRC Press. 1984; 124.
Guerin M, Huntley ME, Olaizola M. Haematococcus astaxanthin: applications for human health
and nutrition. Trends Biotechnol. 2003 May;21(5):210-6.
Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a
randomized trial. Ann Intern Med 2013 June; 158(11):781-790
Robinson, JK. Sun exposure, sun protection, and Vitamin D. JAMA 2005; 294:1541-43
The Skin Cancer Foundation, www.skincancer.org.
Summer Skin Survival Pearls
1. Choose a sunscreen with SPF 30 containing zinc oxide
and apply generously daily. Wear a hat and sunglasses when
outdoors.
2. Avoid tanning salons to keep skin dewy, glowing and
unblemished.
3. Hydrate, enjoy healthy fats, and choose a rainbow of
colorful foods to brighten your complexion and protect your
skin internally.
4. Avoid processed foods and sugars, as these will make
your skin dehydrated and sallow.
5. Like any nutrition or exercise plan, it is your
commitment to the little daily rituals that will make a huge
difference over time.
DIET AND SUPPLEMENT PROTECTION
The good news is that many of the healthy nutritional choices you make for your body will also benefit your skin. Consuming
antioxidants found in acai berries, blueberries, goji berries, pomegranate, turmeric, tomatoes, carrots and green tea can
internally protect skin from UV damage and give you a natural rosy glow.
Water: Hydrated skin is a necessary component to preserving that glow. Water will both hydrate your skin and flush out
toxins that can spoil your complexion.
Lycopene: The red pigment found in some fruits and vegetables soaks up free radicals preventing DNA damage, and has
been proven to increase the skin’s natural SPF by one-third. Foods high in lycopene include watermelon, tomatoes, papaya,
pink guava, red bell peppers and pink grapefruit.
Leafy greens: Spinach, swiss chard and kale contain lutein and zeaxanthin. These nutrients scavenge and destroy free
radicals, which has been shown to reduce the risk of developing skin cancers.
Healthy fats: Nuts, fish and avocado contain essential fats to keep your skin moist and supple.
Cocoa: More than 80 percent dark chocolate contains high levels of antioxidants that assist in UV protection. Milk should
not be added to the chocolate as it interferes with the absorption of these antioxidants.
Green and black teas contain polyphenols offering unrivalled protection from free radical exposure.
Astaxanthin is a colorful, fat-soluble pigment found in microalgae (chlorella, spirulina), yeast, salmon, trout and shrimp.
Wild sockeye salmon has the highest concentration and this amazing, powerful antioxidant imparts a vibrant color to the skin
while simultaneously being one of the most powerful antioxidants protecting both the skin and eyes against UVR.
Carotenoids provide pigment to fruit and vegetables that act as a natural sunscreen by these plants. Foods such as
apricots, papaya, mango, carrots, sweet potatoes and beets contain high levels of protective carotenoids, while also imparting
that healthy, youthful glow to your skin.
Avoid Sugar: Glycation occurs when sugar damages the collagen and elastin in the skin (as well as other organs) making
these structures become rigid. This process causes the skin to lose its natural supple appearance and results in sagging and
sallow skin with wrinkles. Sugar also causes low-grade inflammation, leading to breakouts and facial redness. Sunlight
enhances this irreversible process.
While many of these nutrients may be found in supplement form, they are most beneficial when consumed through real
foods. Always choose organic, as there is growing evidence that the chemicals in pesticides cause a multitude of health
problems.
Heliocare: A supplement extracted from the South American Polypodium leucotomos fern, Heliocare may shield the skin
from UVR that sneaks past sunscreen.
TANNING BEDS VERSUS SPRAY TANS
While those rays may feel sensational, the effects of sun
exposure may kill you. Indoor tanners are 74 percent more likely
to develop melanoma. Tanning beds primarily expose you to the
UVA “aging” rays, while avoiding the UVB “burning” rays that warn
you of too much sun exposure. In the past 40 years, indoor
tanning has contributed to a 500 percent increase in
occurrences of melanoma in young people ages 18 to 39.
Dermatologists see genital melanomas more frequently due to
this exposure.
Spray tans are a safer way to achieve a “sun-kissed glow.”
Spray tans do pose the risk of inhalation and ingestion, so it is
important to protect these areas. Commercial preparations in
topical creams, lotions or towelettes typically contain 3 to 5
percent DHA, a sugar molecule that bronzes the top layer of the
skin (this is why thicker areas of the skin, such as the palms,
soles, elbows and knees uptake more of the product). Exfoliating
prior to application will provide more even results. The browning
effect occurs within a few hours and lasts about seven to 10
days, gradually fading as those layers naturally exfoliate. The
concentration of DHA used in sunless tanning products is
generally considered safe when applied topically. High
concentrations of DHA have shown to correlate with the
production of free radicals that can damage cells, which is why it
is important to avoid inhalation, ingestion and contact with
broken skin.
Sunscreen for Babies: Quick Facts
• Sunscreen is recommended after 6 months of age (American
Academy of Dermatology).
• Only physical sunscreens, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are
recommended. I prefer Vanicream brand, as it is free of dyes, fragrance,
parabens and chemicals (www.ewg.org has a thorough list of safe
sunscreens).
• Preferred method of sun protection is clothing, shade, hats and tents
for babies when outside. Babies should avoid direct sunlight. Sunscreen
should be used for indirect, reflective protection. n
Dr. Jennifer Haley, a board-certified dermatologist with a degree in
Nutrition Science from Cornell University, enjoys sharing her expertise
in skin health, nutrition, and exercise. Dr. Haley has been an NPC bikini
competitor, consultant to the US Capitol, and is the founder of the skin
care line, Derivations. She enjoys an active lifestyle in Scottsdale, AZ
and Montrose, CO with her husband and three boys.

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Healthy Summer Skin Guide

  • 1. 14 FITNESSRX AUGUST 2014 www.fitnessrxwomen.com We are led to believe that freckles are adorable in children, but freckles are really the first sign of sun damage. In adults, they are considered “age spots” but they really have nothing to do with age— only the amount of time the skin has been exposed to sun. It’s a fact that sunlight is a major culprit of wrinkles, dryness and age spots with more than 90 percent of skin aging effects being caused solely by the sun. Skin health is a representation of our inner health. Spending all those hours in the gym isn’t going to pay off if you don’t have gorgeous, glowing, even-toned skin to cover those toned muscles. One in five Americans will develop skin cancer during their lifetime. The evidence is overwhelming that sun exposure increases the risk of developing skin cancer. While basal cell cancer is most prevalent and has a higher chance of disfiguring you rather than shortening your life, melanoma may be deadly. If you have a new or changing mole, a “pimple” that won’t go away after a month or two, or something on your body that looks unlike any other spot, go see a board-certified dermatologist immediately. Early detection and treatment is the key to a cure. ALL SUNSCREENS ARE NOT CREATED EQUAL Let’s first take a look at the two most common types of ultraviolet (UV) rays— UVA and UVB. While both rays can harm the skin and lead to skin cancers, UVB rays are the “burning” rays effectively blocked by glass. UVA rays are deeper penetrating “aging” rays that can pass through glass and lead to collagen damage, wrinkles and sagging. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) indicates how long it will take for the UVB rays to redden skin when using a sunscreen, compared to how long skin would take to redden without the product. For instance, someone using a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will take 15 times longer to redden than without sunscreen. Higher SPF products do not give proportionate protection— with an SPF 15 screening 93 percent of UVB rays, an SPF 30 screening 97 percent, and an SPF 50 screening 98 percent. So, an SPF 30 product applied properly will block about as much UVB as any higher SPF product. While SPF rating indicates how well a product will protect the skin from UVB, there is no current rating system for UVA protection. There are currently 17 active ingredients approved by the FDA for use in sunscreens. Some provide a physical barrier, using minerals, while others provide a chemical barrier that works by absorbing ultraviolet rays (UVR). Most are chemical sunscreens, which work by absorbing the UVR before it penetrates the skin. The longer you are in the sun, the more quickly these chemicals break down, becoming ineffective. They also do a poor job at blocking the UVA rays. The physical sunscreens, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are insoluble particles that effectively reflect both UVA and UVB away from the skin. The effectiveness of these products relies solely on how thickly they are applied. When applied properly, they are excellent at blocking the entire spectrum of both UVA and UVB rays. Since most sun damage occurs during the cumulative effect of UV exposure during daily activities, apply a physical sunscreen daily first thing every morning. Treat your neck, chest and the back of your hands daily with your face and always apply makeup over, not under, sunscreen. Since we know that UVA penetrates through windows, sunscreen is mandatory even if you work indoors. My favorites: EltaMD Physical for daily use and Vanicream for heavy exercise or water activities. An excellent source for safety rating systems of hundreds of sunscreens is www.ewg.org. TOPICAL SKIN CARE TO PREVENT AND REVERSE SUN DAMAGE Exfoliate at least twice a week. Getting rid of the top layer of dead skin allows the skin to better retain moisture, appearing healthier. Exfoliation can be: • Physical: using a Clarisonic skin-care brush, exfoliating cleansing beads, microdermabrasion. • Chemical: using glycolic, lactic or salicylic acids in cleansers, topicals or medical peels. Apply an antioxidant under sunscreen for an added layer of protection. When used topically, vitamin C and E and idebenone can scavenge collagen-damaging free radicals and prevent collagen breakdown, which causes wrinkles. Other helpful products to reduce skin aging include peptides, vitamin A (retinol or tretinoin) and growth factors. HEALTHY SUMMER SKIN GUIDE The Lowdown on SPF, Skin-enhancing Foods and More FitRxCoolDOWN WOMEN’S HEALTH l BY JENNIFER T. HALEY, MD, FAAD
  • 2. AUGUST 2014 FITNESSRX 15www.fitnessrxwomen.com WOMEN’S HEALTH REFERENCES American Academy of Dermatology, www.aad.org. Gilchrest BA. Skin and aging process. CRC Press. 1984; 124. Guerin M, Huntley ME, Olaizola M. Haematococcus astaxanthin: applications for human health and nutrition. Trends Biotechnol. 2003 May;21(5):210-6. Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Ann Intern Med 2013 June; 158(11):781-790 Robinson, JK. Sun exposure, sun protection, and Vitamin D. JAMA 2005; 294:1541-43 The Skin Cancer Foundation, www.skincancer.org. Summer Skin Survival Pearls 1. Choose a sunscreen with SPF 30 containing zinc oxide and apply generously daily. Wear a hat and sunglasses when outdoors. 2. Avoid tanning salons to keep skin dewy, glowing and unblemished. 3. Hydrate, enjoy healthy fats, and choose a rainbow of colorful foods to brighten your complexion and protect your skin internally. 4. Avoid processed foods and sugars, as these will make your skin dehydrated and sallow. 5. Like any nutrition or exercise plan, it is your commitment to the little daily rituals that will make a huge difference over time. DIET AND SUPPLEMENT PROTECTION The good news is that many of the healthy nutritional choices you make for your body will also benefit your skin. Consuming antioxidants found in acai berries, blueberries, goji berries, pomegranate, turmeric, tomatoes, carrots and green tea can internally protect skin from UV damage and give you a natural rosy glow. Water: Hydrated skin is a necessary component to preserving that glow. Water will both hydrate your skin and flush out toxins that can spoil your complexion. Lycopene: The red pigment found in some fruits and vegetables soaks up free radicals preventing DNA damage, and has been proven to increase the skin’s natural SPF by one-third. Foods high in lycopene include watermelon, tomatoes, papaya, pink guava, red bell peppers and pink grapefruit. Leafy greens: Spinach, swiss chard and kale contain lutein and zeaxanthin. These nutrients scavenge and destroy free radicals, which has been shown to reduce the risk of developing skin cancers. Healthy fats: Nuts, fish and avocado contain essential fats to keep your skin moist and supple. Cocoa: More than 80 percent dark chocolate contains high levels of antioxidants that assist in UV protection. Milk should not be added to the chocolate as it interferes with the absorption of these antioxidants. Green and black teas contain polyphenols offering unrivalled protection from free radical exposure. Astaxanthin is a colorful, fat-soluble pigment found in microalgae (chlorella, spirulina), yeast, salmon, trout and shrimp. Wild sockeye salmon has the highest concentration and this amazing, powerful antioxidant imparts a vibrant color to the skin while simultaneously being one of the most powerful antioxidants protecting both the skin and eyes against UVR. Carotenoids provide pigment to fruit and vegetables that act as a natural sunscreen by these plants. Foods such as apricots, papaya, mango, carrots, sweet potatoes and beets contain high levels of protective carotenoids, while also imparting that healthy, youthful glow to your skin. Avoid Sugar: Glycation occurs when sugar damages the collagen and elastin in the skin (as well as other organs) making these structures become rigid. This process causes the skin to lose its natural supple appearance and results in sagging and sallow skin with wrinkles. Sugar also causes low-grade inflammation, leading to breakouts and facial redness. Sunlight enhances this irreversible process. While many of these nutrients may be found in supplement form, they are most beneficial when consumed through real foods. Always choose organic, as there is growing evidence that the chemicals in pesticides cause a multitude of health problems. Heliocare: A supplement extracted from the South American Polypodium leucotomos fern, Heliocare may shield the skin from UVR that sneaks past sunscreen. TANNING BEDS VERSUS SPRAY TANS While those rays may feel sensational, the effects of sun exposure may kill you. Indoor tanners are 74 percent more likely to develop melanoma. Tanning beds primarily expose you to the UVA “aging” rays, while avoiding the UVB “burning” rays that warn you of too much sun exposure. In the past 40 years, indoor tanning has contributed to a 500 percent increase in occurrences of melanoma in young people ages 18 to 39. Dermatologists see genital melanomas more frequently due to this exposure. Spray tans are a safer way to achieve a “sun-kissed glow.” Spray tans do pose the risk of inhalation and ingestion, so it is important to protect these areas. Commercial preparations in topical creams, lotions or towelettes typically contain 3 to 5 percent DHA, a sugar molecule that bronzes the top layer of the skin (this is why thicker areas of the skin, such as the palms, soles, elbows and knees uptake more of the product). Exfoliating prior to application will provide more even results. The browning effect occurs within a few hours and lasts about seven to 10 days, gradually fading as those layers naturally exfoliate. The concentration of DHA used in sunless tanning products is generally considered safe when applied topically. High concentrations of DHA have shown to correlate with the production of free radicals that can damage cells, which is why it is important to avoid inhalation, ingestion and contact with broken skin. Sunscreen for Babies: Quick Facts • Sunscreen is recommended after 6 months of age (American Academy of Dermatology). • Only physical sunscreens, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are recommended. I prefer Vanicream brand, as it is free of dyes, fragrance, parabens and chemicals (www.ewg.org has a thorough list of safe sunscreens). • Preferred method of sun protection is clothing, shade, hats and tents for babies when outside. Babies should avoid direct sunlight. Sunscreen should be used for indirect, reflective protection. n Dr. Jennifer Haley, a board-certified dermatologist with a degree in Nutrition Science from Cornell University, enjoys sharing her expertise in skin health, nutrition, and exercise. Dr. Haley has been an NPC bikini competitor, consultant to the US Capitol, and is the founder of the skin care line, Derivations. She enjoys an active lifestyle in Scottsdale, AZ and Montrose, CO with her husband and three boys.