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FROM HUT TO
HIGH STREETS :
KHADI COMES OF
AGE
S. K. SINHA
Director
Khadi and Village Industries Commission
Government of India, Ministry of MSME,
Mumbai , India
KHADI




            PHILOSOPHY
           It is a philosophy, a
        way of life and a symbol
        of empowerment of pride
        of history of a great
        man’s    vision  of  the
        relevance of roots.
KHADI



           NATURAL AND ORGANIC
             Carrying the smell of the
        soil, Refined, Pure, Elegance
        nurtured in the lap of the
        earth, blending the wisdom of
        the old with the needs of the
        present and of fering way to
        return to nature.
KHADI



                         HANDCRAFTED
                       Handspun, Hand woven,
                       and     an  excellence
                       beyond just mechanical
                       perfection.




 A gift for today, from the treasury of the past.
                 A gift from India.
KHADI - Chronicles
        Spin yarn and dye it with most dazzling dye
              Weave the yarn without any knot
              and enlighten your descendants
           by constantly developing the process
                                                      - Rig
                      Veda – 900 BC
        Gandhiji on return from South Africa ,
        set up an Ashram in Ahmedabad and
 1915
        started    hand-spinning hand-weaving
        activity
        All    India   Charkha   Sangh    was
 1925   established under the Chairmanship of
        Gandhiji
        On 1st April 1957, Khadi & Village
        Industries Commission was established
 1957
        by an act of Parliament passed in the
        year 1956                           5
KHADI – The Handcrafted Natural Textile

            KHADI is a hand woven cloth using hand spun
             yarn containing natural fibres viz. cotton, silk
             and wool only, spun and woven in natural
             environment.

            Khadi activities are carried out at the dwelling
             place of the artisans living in rural areas,
             without use of fossil fuel.

            In an era of degenerating environment, ef forts
             are on to produce 100% Eco-friendly and
             Green textiles where even the cotton is grown
             without chemical fer tilizers and dyed with
             Natural dyes .
KHADI – The Breathing & Fashion Textile

               Soft twist imparted during
                hand spinning process gives
                maximum comfort.
               Interlacement of yarn during
                hand weaving process allows
                maximum air permeability and
                soothes the body better than
                any other fabric does.
               Khadi, totally handcrafted and
                containing natural fibres, this
                natural flavour of fers ample
                scope for fashion statement
                for the creative expression of
                fashion designers.
KHADI – in the Economy

             Khadi creates employment at a very
              low per capita investment.
             The Khadi sector not only serves the
              basic needs of processed goods of
              the vast rural sector of the country
              but   also    provides   sustainable
              employment to rural artisans.
             Khadi today represents an exquisite,
              heritage product, which is ‘ethnic’
              as well as ‘ethical’.
             It has a potentially strong clientele
              among    the   middle    and   upper
              echelons of the society.
KHADI – Process..

•   Picking of the cotton bolls
•   Ginning
•   Opening and cleaning
•   Carding
•   Drawing and Combing
•   Roving
•   Spinning
•   Sizing
•   Warping
•   Drawing and Drafting
•   Weaving
•   Finishing
                                  9
KHADI – Craft Crossbar

                In 1971, introduced a four
                 spindle wooden charkha based
                 on ring spinning technology.
                In 1968, in collaboration with
                 BIS developed standards for
                 Indian National Flag.
                In 1971, Initiated steps     to
                 revive Dhaka Muslin.
                In 2002, introduced     quality
                 standards.
                In 2007, developed E-charkha.
                In  2009,   developed    Solar
                 Charkha
KHADI – Fab Factor

              What really works for Khadi is its
               texture.
              Khadi works better generally in
               tunics  and     simpler    shapes
               because of its fall and drape.
              Khadi has breathability     which
               works in its favour.
              Khadi’s unique thermal ef fect
               lends warmth in winter and
               makes it a cool summer fabric.
              Khadi is ecologically viable as it
               does not use harmful chemicals.
KHADI – Genuineness

               Guarantee through the Mark
                standards of genuine Khadi -
                “Hand spun, Hand Woven and
                Natural Fibre .”
               Guarantee, through the Mark, a
                fair wage standard for the
                artisans involved in producing
                Khadi.
               Establish a strong brand identity
                for genuine Khadi.
               Improve market linkages for
                Khadi weavers and spinners.

                                             12
KHADI – Makeover mode
           Increased per inch thread count to
            make it soft and fine to look at.
           Smooth and even texture using finer
            count yarn even upto 500s metric.
           Multiple look and texture because of
            wide range of yarn count.
           Wet processes such as stone and
            enzyme washing for varied feel and
            appearance .
           Blending with other natural fibres to
            extend thermal properties and better
            pliability.
           Ancient      weaving     embracing
            contemporary elements to find new
            synthesis and relevance.       13
KHADI – by David Abraham – London’s
Conran Shop


                “Khadi beautifully utilizes certain
                skills . There is a huge demand for
                handmade Khadi Products.”




                                               14
KHADI – by Bess Nielsen – Khadi & Co.

                  “My ultimate dream is to use lot of
           colour and chikan embroidery on Khadi with
           modern techniques. The best part of this
           fabric is that it ’s a fabric of maturity.”




                                                  15
KHADI – by Christina Kim


                 “My aim is not to make just fashion
            products. I want my fabric and designs
            to express individuality. I want Khadi to
            become a way of being and feeling.”




                                                 16
KHADI – by Ritu Kumar

             “Khadi works better generally in tunics and
             simpler shapes as it does not fall well in
             bias cuts (diagonal cuts). It ’s a super
             fabric for saris with its fall and drape.




                                                     17
KHADI – by Sabyasachi Mukherjee

              “It ’s a myth that khadi cannot be
              considered a luxe or expensive fabric.
              Since the perception about khadi has
              been changing over the years, it ’s
              being    revived and   fine-tuned   to
              become a top-class fabric.”




                                                 18
KHADI – by Raghavendra Rathore




                                 19
“W hen one wears
      Khadi,
 He wears freedom”

   - Mahatma Gandhi
THANK YOU

                      20

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From hut to high streets khadi comes of age

  • 1. FROM HUT TO HIGH STREETS : KHADI COMES OF AGE S. K. SINHA Director Khadi and Village Industries Commission Government of India, Ministry of MSME, Mumbai , India
  • 2. KHADI PHILOSOPHY It is a philosophy, a way of life and a symbol of empowerment of pride of history of a great man’s vision of the relevance of roots.
  • 3. KHADI NATURAL AND ORGANIC Carrying the smell of the soil, Refined, Pure, Elegance nurtured in the lap of the earth, blending the wisdom of the old with the needs of the present and of fering way to return to nature.
  • 4. KHADI HANDCRAFTED Handspun, Hand woven, and an excellence beyond just mechanical perfection. A gift for today, from the treasury of the past. A gift from India.
  • 5. KHADI - Chronicles Spin yarn and dye it with most dazzling dye Weave the yarn without any knot and enlighten your descendants by constantly developing the process - Rig Veda – 900 BC Gandhiji on return from South Africa , set up an Ashram in Ahmedabad and 1915 started hand-spinning hand-weaving activity All India Charkha Sangh was 1925 established under the Chairmanship of Gandhiji On 1st April 1957, Khadi & Village Industries Commission was established 1957 by an act of Parliament passed in the year 1956 5
  • 6. KHADI – The Handcrafted Natural Textile  KHADI is a hand woven cloth using hand spun yarn containing natural fibres viz. cotton, silk and wool only, spun and woven in natural environment.  Khadi activities are carried out at the dwelling place of the artisans living in rural areas, without use of fossil fuel.  In an era of degenerating environment, ef forts are on to produce 100% Eco-friendly and Green textiles where even the cotton is grown without chemical fer tilizers and dyed with Natural dyes .
  • 7. KHADI – The Breathing & Fashion Textile  Soft twist imparted during hand spinning process gives maximum comfort.  Interlacement of yarn during hand weaving process allows maximum air permeability and soothes the body better than any other fabric does.  Khadi, totally handcrafted and containing natural fibres, this natural flavour of fers ample scope for fashion statement for the creative expression of fashion designers.
  • 8. KHADI – in the Economy  Khadi creates employment at a very low per capita investment.  The Khadi sector not only serves the basic needs of processed goods of the vast rural sector of the country but also provides sustainable employment to rural artisans.  Khadi today represents an exquisite, heritage product, which is ‘ethnic’ as well as ‘ethical’.  It has a potentially strong clientele among the middle and upper echelons of the society.
  • 9. KHADI – Process.. • Picking of the cotton bolls • Ginning • Opening and cleaning • Carding • Drawing and Combing • Roving • Spinning • Sizing • Warping • Drawing and Drafting • Weaving • Finishing 9
  • 10. KHADI – Craft Crossbar  In 1971, introduced a four spindle wooden charkha based on ring spinning technology.  In 1968, in collaboration with BIS developed standards for Indian National Flag.  In 1971, Initiated steps to revive Dhaka Muslin.  In 2002, introduced quality standards.  In 2007, developed E-charkha.  In 2009, developed Solar Charkha
  • 11. KHADI – Fab Factor  What really works for Khadi is its texture.  Khadi works better generally in tunics and simpler shapes because of its fall and drape.  Khadi has breathability which works in its favour.  Khadi’s unique thermal ef fect lends warmth in winter and makes it a cool summer fabric.  Khadi is ecologically viable as it does not use harmful chemicals.
  • 12. KHADI – Genuineness  Guarantee through the Mark standards of genuine Khadi - “Hand spun, Hand Woven and Natural Fibre .”  Guarantee, through the Mark, a fair wage standard for the artisans involved in producing Khadi.  Establish a strong brand identity for genuine Khadi.  Improve market linkages for Khadi weavers and spinners. 12
  • 13. KHADI – Makeover mode  Increased per inch thread count to make it soft and fine to look at.  Smooth and even texture using finer count yarn even upto 500s metric.  Multiple look and texture because of wide range of yarn count.  Wet processes such as stone and enzyme washing for varied feel and appearance .  Blending with other natural fibres to extend thermal properties and better pliability.  Ancient weaving embracing contemporary elements to find new synthesis and relevance. 13
  • 14. KHADI – by David Abraham – London’s Conran Shop “Khadi beautifully utilizes certain skills . There is a huge demand for handmade Khadi Products.” 14
  • 15. KHADI – by Bess Nielsen – Khadi & Co. “My ultimate dream is to use lot of colour and chikan embroidery on Khadi with modern techniques. The best part of this fabric is that it ’s a fabric of maturity.” 15
  • 16. KHADI – by Christina Kim “My aim is not to make just fashion products. I want my fabric and designs to express individuality. I want Khadi to become a way of being and feeling.” 16
  • 17. KHADI – by Ritu Kumar “Khadi works better generally in tunics and simpler shapes as it does not fall well in bias cuts (diagonal cuts). It ’s a super fabric for saris with its fall and drape. 17
  • 18. KHADI – by Sabyasachi Mukherjee “It ’s a myth that khadi cannot be considered a luxe or expensive fabric. Since the perception about khadi has been changing over the years, it ’s being revived and fine-tuned to become a top-class fabric.” 18
  • 19. KHADI – by Raghavendra Rathore 19
  • 20. “W hen one wears Khadi, He wears freedom” - Mahatma Gandhi THANK YOU 20