This document discusses innovation with natural dyes in Indian textiles through two case studies. The first case study examines aal dyeing of cotton in Odisha, which uses dye from the Morinda Citrifolia tree and is a languishing craft. The second case study looks at natural indigo dyeing of khadi denim in Gujarat as an innovative initiative between a textile manufacturer, retailer, and fashion label to create a niche commercial product using traditional materials and processes. Both represent efforts to adopt environmentally friendly natural dyes from plants and make traditional crafts contemporary.

1. INNOVATION WITH NATURAL DYES
IN TRADITIONAL AND CONTEMPORARY
INDIAN TEXTILES
Author
BANHI JHA
National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi
July 2017

2. Historicity of natural-dyed fabric in India
 Antiquity of India’s textile heritage is evidenced by the
remnants of natural-dyed fabric found at Harappa, the
excavated site of the Indus Valley civilization five thousand
years ago
 Ancient indigenous knowledge of materials and processes of
natural-dyed textiles represented the synergy between man
and environment
 Natural dyes derived from natural resources namely plants,
insects and minerals were used for dyeing fabric

3. Handloom sector
 The oldest cottage industry in India that incorporates the
legacy of indigenous knowledge and skills.
 Facing serious challenges including cotton cultivation,
competition from the powerloom sector.
 Renewed surge of interest in handloom textiles

4. Methodology
Case study 1
 Handloom cotton fabric, woven from yarn dyed with aal from
the root bark of the Morinda Citrifolia tree at Kotpad village in
the Koraput district of the state of Odisha in India. Now a
languishing craft.
Case study 2
 Handloom khadi denim, yarn dyed with natural indigo from the
leaves of the Indigofera Tinctoria plant in the state of Gujarat.
Innovative initiative of a commercial denim apparel in a niche
category through the collaboration of a textile manufacturer,
denim retailer and a fashion label.

5. Case study 1: Aal-dyed Kotpad fabric
• Dye colourant is extracted from aal (Indian madder) from the
Morinda Citrifolia tree
• Lengthy process of repeated dips of hanks of cotton yarn in the
dye bath. High level of colour fastness
• Distinctive colour palette in bright and dark reds, maroon and
brown with off-white and black.
• Woven on three-shuttle hand-operated pit-looms
• This textile-craft is still practiced with traditional ingredients and
processes by tribal weavers against all odds, albeit on a very
small scale.

6. Left: Hand-operated indigenous loom
Right: Aal dyed fabric with traditional motifs

7. Case study 2: Indigo-dyed Khadi denim
 Khadi denim is an innovative textile developed by Arvind
Ltd., India’s largest denim manufacturer. It is produced in
very limited quantity in association with other partner non-
governmental organizations.
 It is a unique example of R&D initiatives integrating ecology-
based indigenous materials and processes with commercial
considerations to create a completely new product.
 Khadi denim is born of the integration of denim and khadi:
denim is a symbol of the American entrepreneurial spirit
and khadi is a symbol of the nationalist movement in pre-
independent India

8.  Avoiding synthetic indigo-dyed denim, Arvind Ltd. uses natural
indigo for its anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal and anti-bacterial
properties
 It is hand hank-dyed in natural indigo derived from the leaves
of the Indigofera Tinctoria plant. Does not require pre-
mordanting process for dye-fixation. Lengthy process of
repeated dips of hanks of cotton yarn in the dye bath.
 Weaving process of khadi denim is carried out on hand-
operated looms at the homes of a few highly-skilled weavers

9. Designs by CellDSGN 11.11/eleven eleven
• Fashion label CellDSGN 11.11 has developed apparel with
khadi denim sourced from Arvind Ltd.
• 100% Handmade is an initiative to develop an exclusive
product involving artisans with traditional skills including
dyers, handloom weavers and hand-bock printers.
• Limited edition of this collection due to the time-consuming,
labour-intensive process of hand-stitching the entire garment.
• Priced very high as an exclusive luxury product of denim
apparel

10. Khadi denim by CellDSGN

11. Conclusion
• The intricate and laborious processes embedded in the
textiles that are dyed with natural colourants of aal and
indigo, represent the ethos of India.
• Case study represents innovative efforts to adopt
traditional, environment friendly processes to make them
contemporary, viable and sustainable
• This is also aligned with the philosophy of Slow Fashion.

12. Thank You