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ONCE A POPULAR BEACH DESTINATION, THE
“MANHATTAN OF THE TROPICS” IS NOW
DEVELOPING A NAME AS AN ENTREPRENEURIAL HUB
FLY ABIDJANFLY ABIDJAN
BY LINDA MARKOVINA (@MOVING_SUSHI)
abidjan
Dry your tears, Afrika! 
We have drunk from all the
springs of ill-fortune and of glory
And our senses are now opened
To the splendour of your beauty
To the smell of your forests
To the charm of your waters
To the clearness of your skies
To the cares of your sun.
From Dry Your Tears, Afrika by Bernard Binlin Dadié, 1967
For use by louiseg@nationalpositions.com only. Distribution prohibited.
58 Sawubona June 2015
t was 1995 when SA played host to its
Ƥ”•–Ǧ‡˜‡” —‰„› ‘”Ž† —’Ǥ
™ƒ• ˜‡”›
›‘—‰ǡ ‹ 
”ƒ†‡ ͞ ƒ† –Š‡ …‘—–”› ™ƒ•
Š‹‰Š ‘ ”—‰„› ˆ‡˜‡”Ǥ

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Fly abidjan

  • 1. ONCE A POPULAR BEACH DESTINATION, THE “MANHATTAN OF THE TROPICS” IS NOW DEVELOPING A NAME AS AN ENTREPRENEURIAL HUB FLY ABIDJANFLY ABIDJAN BY LINDA MARKOVINA (@MOVING_SUSHI)
  • 2. abidjan Dry your tears, Afrika!  We have drunk from all the springs of ill-fortune and of glory And our senses are now opened To the splendour of your beauty To the smell of your forests To the charm of your waters To the clearness of your skies To the cares of your sun. From Dry Your Tears, Afrika by Bernard Binlin Dadié, 1967 For use by louiseg@nationalpositions.com only. Distribution prohibited.
  • 3. 58 Sawubona June 2015 t was 1995 when SA played host to its Ƥ”•–Ǧ‡˜‡” —‰„› ‘”Ž† —’Ǥ
  • 4. ™ƒ• ˜‡”› ›‘—‰ǡ ‹ ”ƒ†‡ ͞ ƒ† –Š‡ …‘—–”› ™ƒ• Š‹‰Š ‘ ”—‰„› ˆ‡˜‡”Ǥ
  • 5.  › …Žƒ••ǡ ‡ƒ…Š ‘ˆ —• Šƒ† –‘ †”ƒ™ ƒ •Ž‹’ ‘ˆ ’ƒ’‡” ˆ”‘ ƒ Žƒ”‰‡ Šƒ–Ǥ  ‹– ™ƒ• ™”‹––‡ –Š‡ ƒ‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ ”—‰„› –‡ƒ ™Š‘ǯ† „‡…‘‡ Dz‘—” •‹†‡dz ˆ‘” –Š‡ †—”ƒ–‹‘ ‘ˆ –Š‡ –‘—”ƒ‡–Ǥ ‡ Šƒ† –‘ ”‡•‡ƒ”…Š –Š‡ …‘—–”› ™‡ ™‡”‡ ‰‹˜‡ ƒ† –Š‡ ”‡’‘”– „ƒ… –‘ –Š‡ …Žƒ••ǡ †‡–ƒ‹Ž‹‰ •‘‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ …—Ž–—”ƒŽ ƒ† ‹–‡”‡•–‹‰ ˆƒ…–• ™‡ Ž‡ƒ”– ƒ• –Š‡ ‰ƒ‡• —ˆ‘Ž†‡†Ǥ Š‡ …‘—–”›
  • 8. ‘™ –Šƒ– •‘‡ ͝͡ ›‡ƒ”• Žƒ–‡”ǡ
  • 9. ǯ† ‡† —’ ˜‹•‹–‹‰ „‹†Œƒǡ –Š‡
  • 10. ˜‘”› ‘ƒ•–ǯ• …‘‡”…‹ƒŽ ƒ† „ƒ‹‰ Š‡ƒ”–Ǥ ‘‘‹‰ „ƒ…ǡ
  • 12. ‹‰Š– Šƒ˜‡ •ƒ‹† ‹ ƒ …Žƒ••”‘‘ •’‡‡…Š ƒ„‘—– ƒ …‘—–”› –Šƒ–ǡ –‘ › ›‘—‰‡” •‡Žˆǡ —•– Šƒ˜‡ •‡‡‡† ˜‡”› ˆƒ” ƒ™ƒ›ǡ —’ –Š‡ ™‡•– …‘ƒ•– ‘ˆ ˆ”‹…ƒǤ ‘™ǡ †”‹˜‹‰ ‘˜‡” –Š‡ ‘– ‡‡”ƒŽ †‡ ƒŽŽ‡ ‘ –Š‡ ™ƒ› –‘ ‡ Žƒ–‡ƒ—ǡ „‹†Œƒǯ• „—•‹‡•• †‹•–”‹…–ǡ ˆƒ…‹‰ ƒ ™ƒŽŽ ‘ˆ –”‘’‹…ƒŽ Š—‹†‹–›ǡ
  • 14. Šƒ† ƒ• ƒ …Š‹Ž† ™‡”‡ ’”‘„ƒ„Ž› ˜ƒ•–Ž› †‹ơ‡”‡– ˆ”‘ –Š‹• ˆ”‹…ƒ …‹–›ǡ ™Š‹…Š ‹• ƒ›–Š‹‰ „—– ƒ˜‡”ƒ‰‡Ǥ …‡ ƒ ’‘’—Žƒ” „‡ƒ…Š †‡•–‹ƒ–‹‘ ƒ‘‰ ”‡…Š •—Ǧ•‡‡‡”•ǡ ‹– •ƒ™ –™‘ …‹˜‹Ž ™ƒ”• ȋ‹ ͜͜͞͞ ƒ† ͜͞͝͝Ȍ –Šƒ– …”‹’’Ž‡† –Š‡ …‘—–”›ǯ• –‘—”‹•Ǥ Šƒ”‹‰ „‘”†‡”• ™‹–Š ‹„‡”‹ƒ ƒ† —‹‡ƒ ȋ‘™ ‹ˆƒ‘—• ™‘”Ž†™‹†‡ „‡…ƒ—•‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ ”‡…‡– ‘—–„”‡ƒ ‘ˆ –Š‡ †‡ƒ†Ž› ‡„‘Žƒ ˜‹”—•ǡ ™Š‹…Š –Šƒˆ—ŽŽ› Šƒ•ǯ– –‘—…Š‡† –Š‡
  • 15. ˜‘”› ‘ƒ•– –‘ †ƒ–‡Ȍǡ ‹– ƒ› ‘– •‡‡ Ž‹‡ –Š‡ ‹†‡ƒŽ ’Žƒ…‡ –‘ ˜‡–—”‡ ‹–‘Ǥ
  • 16. – ‹‰Š– ‘– Šƒ˜‡ –Š‡ •‘—Žˆ—Ž ‹‰Š– Ž‹ˆ‡ ‘ˆ ‡‡‰ƒŽ ‘” –Š‡ –Š‹… ƒ‹” ‘ˆ „—•‹‡•• ƒ† …Šƒ‘• ›‘— Ƥ† ‹ ‹‰‡”‹ƒǡ „—– ‹– ™ƒ””ƒ–• ‹–• ‹…ƒ‡ǡ DzƒŠƒ––ƒ ‘ˆ –Š‡ ”‘’‹…•dzǡ „‡…ƒ—•‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ ƒ› •›•…”ƒ’‡”• …Ž—•–‡”‡† ƒ”‘—† –Š‡ 2„”‹± ƒ‰‘‘ǡ ™Š‹…Š •–”‡–…Š‡• ‘˜‡” ͜͜͞ ‘ ‡‹–Š‡” •‹†‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ …‹–› …‡–”‡Ǥ
  • 17.  ƒ …‘—–”› –Šƒ–ǯ• –Š‡ ™‘”Ž†ǯ• Žƒ”‰‡•– ’”‘†—…‡” ‘ˆ …‘…‘ƒ „‡ƒ• ƒ† ‹• Š‘‡ –‘ ‘˜‡” ͢͜ ‡–Š‹… ‰”‘—’•ǡ –Š‡ ‘•– ‹’‘”–ƒ– ”‡•‘—”…‡ ˆ‘” ‰‡––‹‰ ƒ”‘—† –Š‡ …‹–› ‹• ƒ ‰‘‘† ‘™Ž‡†‰‡ ‘ˆ ”‡…Š ƒ† ƒ †‡‡’ ’ƒ••‹‘ ˆ‘” •‘……‡” Ȃ ‡‹–Š‡” ‘ˆ ™Š‹…Š
  • 18. Šƒ˜‡Ǥ Šƒ• –‘ ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ –‡ƒ ‡• 2Ž±’Šƒ–•ǡ ™Š‘•‡ ’Žƒ›‡”• ƒ”‡ ‘ˆ–‡ ‹˜‘Ž˜‡† ‹ †‹ơ‡”‡– ‹‹–‹ƒ–‹˜‡• ƒ”‘—† –Š‡ …‘—–”› –‘ ’”‘‘–‡ ’‡ƒ…‡ –Š”‘—‰Š •’‘”–ǡ •‘……‡” ‹• ƒ ™ƒ› ‘ˆ Ž‹ˆ‡ ‹ –Š‡
  • 19. ˜‘”› ‘ƒ•–ǡ ™Š‡”‡ ƒ Ž‘…ƒŽ –‡ƒ …ƒ „‡ ˆ‘—† ‹ ’”‡––› —…Š ‡˜‡”› –‘™ ƒ† ˜‹ŽŽƒ‰‡Ǥ ––‡”‹‰ –Š‡ ƒ‡ ‘ˆ ˆƒ‘—• ˆ‘”‡” ƒ’–ƒ‹ ‹†‹‡” ”‘‰„ƒ •‡‡• –‘ ™‘” ™‘†‡”• ˆ‘” › •–”‡‡– …”‡†Ǥ Š‡ „‡•– ™ƒ› –‘ ‰‡– ƒ …Ž‡ƒ” ’‡”•’‡…–‹˜‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ Ž‹‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ Žƒ† ‹• –‘ Š‡ƒ† –‘ – ƒ—Žǯ• ƒ–Š‡†”ƒŽǡ Š‹‰Š —’ ‘ ‡ Žƒ–‡ƒ—ǡ ™‹–Š ƒ ”ƒ–Š‡” ˆ‘”‹†ƒ„Ž‡ ˆƒ­ƒ†‡ –Šƒ– ˆƒŽŽ• •‘‡™Š‡”‡ „‡–™‡‡ ƒ •Š‹’ǯ• •ƒ‹Ž ƒ† ƒ ˆ—–—”‹•–‹… …”‘•• †‘‹ƒ–‹‰ –Š‡ •›Ž‹‡ ‘˜‡” –Š‡ ƒ› ‘ˆ ‘…‘†›Ǥ ‡•‹‰‡† „›
  • 20. –ƒŽ‹ƒ ƒ”…Š‹–‡…– Ž†‘ ’‹”‹–‘ ƒ† …‘’Ž‡–‡† ‹ ͥͤ͝͡ǡ ‹–ǯ• ‘”‡ –Šƒ Œ—•– ƒ —‹“—‡ †‡•‹‰ ‘ –Š‡
  • 21. ˜‘”‹ƒ Žƒ†•…ƒ’‡Ǥ —”‹‰ ͜͜͞͝ǡ –Š‹• …Š—”…Š ‘ơ‡”‡† ƒ •ƒˆ‡ ”‡ˆ—‰‡ ˆ‘” ƒ› ‘ˆ –Š‡ Ž‘…ƒŽ ’‡‘’Ž‡ …ƒ—‰Š– —’ ‹ –Š‡ –”ƒ—ƒ–‹… •‡…‘† …‹˜‹Ž ™ƒ”ǡ ™Š‡ ‡ƒ”Ž› ͝ ͤ͜͜ ‹†‹˜‹†—ƒŽ• ™‡”‡ …ƒ—‰Š– ‹ –Š‡ ‰—Ƥ”‡ –Šƒ– ‡…Š‘‡† ƒ…”‘•• –Š‡ •–”‡‡–• ‘ˆ „‹†ŒƒǤ Š‡
  • 22. ˜‘”› ‘ƒ•–ǯ• ‹”‡† ’ƒ•– Šƒ• Ž‡ˆ– „ƒ•‹… ƒ‡‹–‹‡• •—…Š ƒ• ‡Ž‡…–”‹…‹–› ƒ† ”—‹‰ ™ƒ–‡” ‹ •…ƒ”…‡ •—’’Ž› ‹ …‡”–ƒ‹ ƒ”‡ƒ•Ǥ ‹–Š ƒ› ’‡‘’Ž‡ —ƒ„Ž‡ –‘ ‡ƒ” ‡˜‡ –Š‡ ‹‹— ™ƒ‰‡ ‘ˆ ͊͜͝͞ ƒ ‘–Š ƒ† Š—†”‡†• Šƒ˜‹‰ Ž‘•– ‡˜‡”›–Š‹‰ ‹ –Š‡ ˜‹‘Ž‡…‡ ‘ˆ ͜͜͞͝ǡ ‡–”‡’”‡‡—”• ƒ”‡ „‡…‘‹‰ –Š‡ †”‹˜‡”• ‘ˆ ˆ—–—”‡ ‰”‘™–Š ƒ† ‹‘˜ƒ–‹‘ ‹ –Š‡ ’‘•–Ǧ …‘ƪ‹…– …‘—–”›Ǥ ™ƒŽ ƒ”‘—† –Š‡ ±…‹Ž‡ ƒŠ‘—”› ƒŽŽ‡”›ǡ –ƒ‹‰ ‹ –Š‡ •—„Ž‹‡ ’Š‘–‘‰”ƒ’Š› ‘ˆ –Š‡ Ž‹‡• ‘ˆ ‡•–‘” ƒ ƒ† ƒ—Ž ‹ƒǡ ™‹ŽŽ ‰‹˜‡ Nothing beats simply hitting the street corner any time of the day or night to treat yourself in local restaurants run by maquis. CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE: St Paul’s Cathedral. Ivory Coast’s soccer forward Gervais Yao Kouassi (Gervinho). A farmer sells cocoa beans at the International Agriculture Animal Resources Fair. The beaches have a lot to offer.
  • 23. abidjan June 2015 Sawubona 59 you plenty of reasons to be inspired and optimistic. And the burgeoning restaurant and nightlife scenes are †‡Ƥ‹–‡Ž› •‘‡–Š‹‰ –‘ ™ƒ–…ŠǤ
  • 24. …‘—Ž† extol the virtues of many eateries ƒ† ‡˜‡‹‰ ™ƒ–‡”‹‰ Š‘Ž‡• –Šƒ– have emerged in the city, including Restaurant Aboussouan ȋƒ ’”‹…›ǡ „—– ‰”‡ƒ– ™‹‡ „ƒ”Ȍ ‘” ƒƒƒǡ ™Š‡”‡ ‡ƒ† Š‡ˆ Š”‹•–‡ŽŽ‡ ‘—‰‘ •‡”˜‡• ˆƒ„—Ž‘—• †‹•Š‡• ™‹–Š ”‡ƒŽ Ž‘…ƒŽ ƪƒ˜‘—”•Ǥ ‘™‡˜‡”ǡ
  • 25. ǯ Š‡”‡ ‘•–Ž› ˆ‘” –Š‡ glorious street food: sumptuous, spicy, sublime charcoal-grilled chicken, addictive fried bananas or aloko •‡”˜‡† ™‹–Š ‘‹‘•ǡ attieke ƒ†‡ ˆ”‘ …ƒ••ƒ˜ƒ ƒ† ™‹–Š a couscous-like texture, seafood ƒ† ˆ”‡•Š ˜‡‰‡–ƒ„Ž‡• ƪƒ˜‘—”‡† ™‹–Š •™‡ƒ–Ǧ‹†—…‹‰ ’‹‡–‘ ’‡’’‡”•ǡ ginger, garlic, nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves. Š‡”‡ǯ• ƒ ™‘†‡”ˆ—Ž ‹š ‘ˆ Ž‘…ƒŽ and French cuisine to suit every budget and taste. Nothing beats hitting the street corner any time of the day or night to treat yourself in local restaurants run by maquis. To be considered a maquis, you have to serve food cooked over a Ž‘™ Ƥ”‡Ǥ
  • 26. – ‹‰Š– ‘– „‡ ‡ƒ•› ‘ –Š‡ ‡›‡ǡ „—– ‹–ǯ• †‡Ž‹…‹‘—• ƒ† –Š‡ •‹œ‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ ’‘”–‹‘• ‹• †‡Ƥ‹–‡Ž› ‡ƒ•› ‘ –Š‡ ™ƒŽŽ‡–Ǥ Even getting hopelessly lost ™Š‹Ž‡ ™‡ƒ˜‹‰ ƒ”‘—† –Š‡ •–”‡‡–• Ž‘‘‹‰ ˆ‘” Š‡œ Ambroise (ironically, since ‹–ǯ• ƒ –‘—”‹•–•ǯ ‹…‘ǡ •‘ ›‘—ǯ† –Š‹ ‹– ™‘—Ž† „‡ ‡ƒ•› –‘ Ƥ†Ȍ ‹• ”‡™ƒ”†‹‰Ǥ Š‹• ‘’‡Ǧƒ‹” ”‡•–ƒ—”ƒ–ǡ ‡•–Ž‡† „‡–™‡‡ street vendors, has a lively atmosphere ƒ† •‡”˜‡• Š‡ƒ”–›ǡ †‹•–‹…–Ž›
  • 27. ˜‘”‹ƒ ˆ‘‘†ǡ ™Š‹Ž‡ •‹‰‹‰ „ƒ†• ”‘ƒ around the tables. A real test for –Š‘•‡ ™‹–Š ƒ ƒ†˜‡–—”‘—• ’ƒŽƒ–‡ ‹• the popular local dish of giant land •ƒ‹Ž•ǡ ™ƒ•Š‡† †‘™ ™‹–Š ƒ ”‡ˆ”‡•Š‹‰ Tuborg beer. Šƒ–
  • 28. Ž‘˜‡ ‘•– ƒ„‘—– –Š‹• …‹–› is the impression it leaves on you.
  • 29. ˜‘”‹ƒ• ƒ”‡ ‹…”‡†‹„Ž› ˆ”‹‡†Ž› ƒ† ™‡Ž…‘‹‰ǡ ‡•’‡…‹ƒŽŽ› –‘ ƒ ™‡ƒ”› –‘—”‹•– Ž‹‡ ‡ ™‹–Š ƒ ˜‡”› Ž‹‹–‡† French vocabulary. Despite the •Ž‘™ ”ƒ–‡ ‘ˆ –‘—”‹• ‰”‘™–Šǡ the country has a lot to ‘ơ‡” „‡›‘† „—•‹‡•• development. From the beaches of Assinie and Assounde to the famous stilt dancing in Touba, –Š‡”‡ǯ• ’Ž‡–› –‘ †‘ ƒ† see. Visit the former French …‘Ž‘‹ƒŽ …ƒ’‹–ƒŽ ƒ† ‘™ ‡•…‘ ‘”Ž† ‡”‹–ƒ‰‡ ‹–‡ ‘ˆ ”ƒ† ƒ••ƒǡ –Š‡ ƒƒœ‹‰ ƒ–Š‡†”ƒŽ‡ ‘–”‡ ƒ‡ †‡ Žƒ ƒ‹š ‹ ƒ‘—••‘—”‘ ƒ† ‘‘± ƒ–‹‘ƒŽ ƒ”ǡ ‘‡ ‘ˆ –Š‡ largest and oldest ™‹Ž†Ž‹ˆ‡ ”‡•‡”˜‡• ‹ the country. One can only hope that tourists ™‹ŽŽ ƒ‰ƒ‹ †‹•…‘˜‡” the attractions of this delightful piece of West Africa and treat themselves –‘ ƒ ˆ‡™ †ƒ›• ‹ „‹†Œƒǡ ‡Œ‘›‹‰ •—ǡ •ƒ†ǡ adventure – and ƒ ’Žƒ–‡ ‘” –™‘ ‘ˆ ƪƒ‡Ǧ‰”‹ŽŽ‡†ǡ spicy chicken. ƪ‹‡• –‘ „‹†Œƒ–Š”‡‡†ƒ›•ƒ ™‡‡ ˆ”‘ ƒ„‘
  • 30. –‡”ƒ–‹‘ƒŽǡ ‘Šƒ‡•„—”‰Ǥ DANCING Le Privé Club: Boulevard de Marseille Butterfly Lounge: A jazz bar in Zone 4. (Any taxi- driver will know where to take you) SIGHT-SEEING Belem Tours: +225 0790 8035, www.belem-tours.com Afric Voyages: Avenue Chardy Immeuble Nour-al-Hayat, +225 2030 3848, www.africvoyages.com St Paul’s Cathedral: Lagunes DINING Chez Ambroise: 4 Rue F28, Marcory, +225 0578 3600 The Coconut Grove Restaurant Hotel: +255 0707 0510, miclo.bonafs@gmail.com Saakan: Avenue Chardy, Plateau, +225 2032 1358, www.saakan.com Restaurant Aboussouan: 18 Angle Bd Giscard d’Estaing, Avenue Delafosse, Treichville, +255 2124 5312, www.restaurant- aboussouan.com SHOPPING Cécile Fakhoury Gallery: + 225 2244 6677, galerie@cecilefakhoury. com Marché Cava Artesanale: Bietry, between the city centre and the airport Hypermarché Sococe: Along the K125 in Quartier Sodeci ACCOMMODATION Villa Anakao: II Plateaux, Attoban, +225 4974 2113, www.villa-anakao.com Villa Mia: Attoban Riviera à Abidjan, Cocody, +225 4723 4997, www. villamia-abidjan.com Tiama Hotel: Boulevard de la République, Abidjan Plateau, + 225 2031 3333, www.hotel.tiama.ci Hôtel Ivoire/Sofitel: Boulevard Hassan II, +225 2248 2626, www.sofitel.com Hôtel Particulier: Route du Lycée Technique, Rue B52, Cocody, +225 2244 1616, www.hotelparticulier- abj.com DISCOVERING ABIDJAN ‘ˆ –Š‡ his West emselves ‹†Œƒǡ ǡ GALLOIMAGES/GETTYIMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO BELOW LEFT: Open-air food stalls are popular. BELOW RIGHT: A local food vendor. For use by louiseg@nationalpositions.com only. Distribution prohibited.