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1. SEPTEMBER 2015 | WWW.WISHESH.COMWWW.WISHESH.COM | SEPTEMBER 2015
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Fine art
Natural dyes replace chemical dyes to save
environment
natural dyes
As chemical dyes are used in silk
dyeing units in the trade, the Ganges
River is getting polluted. To sort an
alternative for this, the weavers are in a
thought of bringing out the natural dyes.
Regarding this, a research team from the
Indian Institute of Technology, Banaras
Hindu University (IIT-BHU) tried a solvent
extraction and enzymatic extraction
technique, to develop natural colors from
plants, flowers and fruits including acacia,
butia (Palash), madder, marigold and
Pomegranate.
Banaras silk in losses over the years
After the mechanized units came into
prominence, which are able to produce
the saris faster and also at a cheaper costs,
the Banarasi silk handloom industry started
incurring huge amount of losses.
Bari bazaar in Varanasi is famous for
banarasi silk sarees. Though they began
to weave saris on handlooms, they slowly
upgraded to powerlooms. The daily
money transaction is probably 50 millions
in Bari bazaar. Its unique designs made
Bari bazaar, stand in the forefront of the
developed textile market in the big cities like
Surat, Mumbai, Kolkata etc.
GI certificate preserves
Banaras weavers’ rights
After two years, the weaver
associations in Uttar
Pradesh secured Geographical
Indication (GI) rights for
the ‘Banaras Brocades and
Saris’ in 2009. GI preserves
the rights on a particular
good as originating in a
certain region where a given
quality, reputation or other
characteristic of the product is
essentially attributable to its
geographical origin.
As per the GI certificate,
Banarasi products fall
under four classes
1. Silk brocades
2. Textile goods
3. Silk saree
4. Dress material and silk
embroidery.
This means, any sari or
brocade, made in other than
below mentioned districts,
i.e., Varanasi, Gorakhpur,
Chandauli, Bhadohi, Jaunpur
and Azamgarh, will not be
allowed into market and the
persons involved in selling the
product will have to face the
fate.
Before this, nine
organisations, Banaras
Bunkar Samiti, Human
Welfare Association (HWA),
joint director industries
(eastern zone), director of
handlooms and textiles Uttar
Pradesh Handloom Fabrics
Marketing Cooperative
Federation, Eastern UP
Exporters Association
(EUPEA), Banarasi Vastra
Udyog Sangh, Banaras
‘‘United Nations
Conference
on Trade and
Development
(UNCTAD)
supported this
move of the
weavers.’’
Hath Kargha Vikas Samiti
and Adarsh Silk Bunkar
Sahkari Samiti, had applied
to the Chennai-based GI, in
July 2007. United Nations
Conference on Trade and
Development (UNCTAD)
supported this move of the
weavers.
Finally, let us support all
such weavers, who made the
Banaras sarees so famous
and it our duty to protect our
wealth, before going it into the
hands of the thieves.
Fine art