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The Impact of Rebranding on the UK’s
Generation -Y- Consumers.
Calculating the ROI of the Ben Sherman Rebranding strategy
and its effects on the behaviour of the target market.
Key words
Rebranding, Brand image, Brand equity, Brand identity, Brand
perception, Generation Y, Consumer behaviour, Reinvention,
Adaptation, ROI measurement.
Unit: Final Dissertation
Student: Paula Garcia Ferrer
Student ID: GAR11348260
Course: MA DMFFI
Date: 30/11/2012
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) ii
STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY
“I declare that no portion of material in this dissertation has previously been submitted
for a degree or other academic qualification of this or any other educational institution,
and that to the best of my knowledge contains no material previously published or
written by another person except where due acknowledgement is made”
Name: Paula G. Ferrer
Signature:
Date: 30th November 2012
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) iii
DIGITISATION CONSENT FORM
I hereby give my consent for my dissertation / report to be copied* and stored
electronically in the library.
I understand that it is University policy to lodge a copy of student theses and
dissertations in a library of the University. (See Student Zone, Regulations: ownership
of student work).
I understand that in order to protect my intellectual property rights, access is only made
available to current University of the Arts London staff and students and downloading
and printing are prohibited.
Course: MA Design Management For The Fashion Industries
Name: Paula G. Ferrer
Signature:
Date: 30th November 2012
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
I would like to express my sincere appreciation to my supervisor Francess Ross for her
guidance support and encouragement despite the difficulties towards the development
and completion of this study.
I would like to express my appreciation to my parents Montse and Angel, and to my
sister Mireia, who always loved and supported me.
I would like to thank all my friends, especially Gokhan Demirci and Tiziano de Mattia
who always provided me for their technical support and encouragement.
I would like to express my appreciation to all survey participants who participated in
that study and more especially to MR. O.C. and J.M. FROM Ben Sherman Ltd., who
provided fundamental and indispensable information to reach the objectives of the
study.
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) v
ABSTRACT
Due to the need to adapt to the new preferences and behaviours of upcoming
generations of consumers, brand changes have become a common practice in the
fashion industry. The impending group of consumers are the so-called “Generation Y”,
which despite the recession, appear to have an impressive purchasing power (Bergh
and Behrer, 2011). They symbolise the commencement of a new era in which
consumers and brands interact in a different ways. The reason for this is due to the
consumer’s high standards and knowledge of marketing strategies, which in retrospect
present a challenge for most fashion marketers to find new ways of interaction.
Taking into account the large quantities that brands spend on rebranding (Experian,
2010), marketers have to justify the reasons for which the brands investments are
assigned to and control the returns expected. Despite this fact, it is generally accepted
that brand sales do not only depend on brand perceptions of consumers but many
various amount of factors. Thus, it is found necessary to find which strategies are
successful amongst “Generation Y” consumers and to design a model to monitor the
results of the investment (Kapferer, 2001).
Accordingly, this research is examining how rebranding strategies of a fashion brand
impact on the perception, behaviour and performance that a specific target group
(Generation Y) have of the brand, whilst analysing and studying the overall return on
investment of a rebrand in terms of tangible and intangible incomes. For the purpose of
this dissertation, the brand in question will be Ben Sherman.
Through the integration of two existent models, a new model was created to measure
the Return on Investment of brand changes: the Consumer-based brand equity and the
CRUSH Branding Model. The new model has the advantage of measuring intangibles
from the consumer’s point of view, and allowing the ability to predict the tangible
returns on investment of the brand whilst isolated from any external factors that could
impact on sales.
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) vi
GLOSSARY
Term Definition
Location
within the
document
Rebranding
Process that implies the redesign and rethinking of
one or more parts of the brand. (Wider definitions of
the concept are found in section 2.1.1, located in the
second chapter of this document.)
(All doc.)
Generation Y
Millennials
Gen Yers
Demographic group widely assumed to be born
between 1980 and 2000. (Wider definitions of the
concept are found in section 2.2.1, located in the
second chapter of this document.)
(All doc.)
Return on
investment
A performance measure used to evaluate the
efficiency of an investment or to compare the
efficiency of a number of different investments. (Wider
definitions and measurement techniques regarding
Rebranding strategies are found in section 2.3,
located in the second chapter of this document.)
(All doc.)
Brand
evolution
Changes undergone by the organisation within its logo
and slogan.
p.19
Brand
revolution
Changes undergone by the organisation within its
logo, slogan and name of the brand.
p.19
CRUSH
Branding
Model
Term used in Bergh and Behrer (2011), to refer to the
5 success factors of a youth brand.
p. 23, 28, 56,
57, 70
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) vii
Youthopia
A research conducted by MTV Networks to young
people in Europe which aimed to understand their
values, hopes and dreams. This information led to the
conception of the CRUSH Branding Model.
p. 28
InSites
consulting
Research agency that took part in the investigation for
Youthopia study.
p. 28
Rebranding
Mix
Different tools or and strategies used in Rebranding,
which mainly correspond to: redesigning,
repositioning, re-communicating (Stuart and Muzellec,
2004).
p. 39
Brand
conversations
Term used in Bergh and Behrer (2011), to refer to the
amount of conversations that youth have about
brands.
p. 28, 56-59
(FFT)
Fashion
Follower and
Trendsetters
Both interested in fashion. While the trendsetter, acts
as a fashion communicator for the rest of fashion
followers, the fashion follower, is a person who looks
toward others (such as Trendsetters or innovators) to
be informed about latest trends and fashions.
p. 66-69
(NIFTI)
Not interested
in fashion
trends or
innovativeness
Person who doesn’t follow fashion trends and it is not
interested in fashion.
p. 66-69
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) viii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
STATEMENT	
  OF	
  ORIGINALITY	
   II	
  
DIGITISATION	
  CONSENT	
  FORM	
   III	
  
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS	
   IV	
  
ABSTRACT	
   V	
  
GLOSSARY	
   VI	
  
TABLE	
  OF	
  CONTENTS	
   VIII	
  
TABLE	
  OF	
  FIGURES	
   XI	
  
1.	
   INTRODUCTION	
   1	
  
1.1	
   THE	
  STEEPLECHASE:	
  UK	
  FASHION	
  APPAREL	
  AND	
  THE	
  RECESSION	
   2	
  
1.2	
   THE	
  STRATEGY:	
  THE	
  MOST	
  STABLE	
  IS	
  MOVEMENT	
   3	
  
1.3	
   THE	
  SUBJECTS	
  OF	
  THE	
  OPPORTUNITY:	
  THE	
  NEW	
  WAVE	
  OF	
  CONSUMERS	
   4	
  
1.4	
   THE	
  CHALLENGING	
  CHARACTERISTICS	
  OF	
  THE	
  GROUP	
   6	
  
1.5	
   THE	
  IMPORTANCE	
  OF	
  MEASURING	
  THE	
  RETURNS	
   7	
  
1.6	
   RESEARCH	
  AIM	
  AND	
  OBJECTIVES	
   9	
  
1.7	
   STRUCTURE	
  OF	
  THE	
  DISSERTATION	
   11	
  
1.8	
   CHAPTER	
  SUMMARY	
   11	
  
2	
   LITERATURE	
  REVIEW	
   12	
  
2.1	
   REBRANDING	
  STRATEGIES	
   13	
  
2.1.1	
   DEFINITION	
  OF	
  REBRANDING	
   13	
  
2.1.2	
   ISSUES	
  IN	
  REBRANDING:	
   15	
  
2.1.3	
   COMMON	
  PRACTICES	
  WHEN	
  REBRANDING:	
  REDESIGN,	
  REPOSITION	
  AND	
  COMMUNICATION	
   16	
  
2.1.4	
   EXECUTION	
   18	
  
2.2	
   THE	
  NEW	
  WAVE	
  OF	
  CONSUMERS:	
  THE	
  MALE	
  GENERATION	
  Y	
  CONSUMPTION	
   20	
  
2.2.1	
   DEFINITION:	
   20	
  
2.2.2	
   THEIR	
  RELATION	
  WITH	
  THE	
  BRANDS	
  AND	
  BRANDING:	
   21	
  
2.2.3	
   WHAT	
  DOES	
  CREATE	
  VALUE	
  FOR	
  THEM?	
   23	
  
2.2.4	
   WOWING	
  THE	
  NEW	
  GENERATION:	
  	
  BRANDING	
  STRATEGIES	
  TO	
  GEN	
  Y	
  MALE	
   25	
  
2.3	
   RETURN	
  ON	
  INVESTMENT	
  OF	
  REBRANDING	
  STRATEGIES	
   31	
  
2.3.1	
   THE	
  DIFFICULTIES	
  OF	
  MEASURING	
  THE	
  SUCCESS	
  OF	
  REBRANDING	
  AND	
  ITS	
  IMPACT	
  ON	
  BRAND	
  
EQUITY	
  31	
  
2.3.2	
   MEASURING	
  BRAND	
  EQUITY:	
   32	
  
2.3.3	
   CONSUMER-­‐BASED	
  BRAND	
  EQUITY	
  AND	
  IMPACT	
  ON	
  PURCHASE	
   35	
  
2.4	
   CHAPTER	
  SUMMARY	
   38	
  
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) ix
3	
   METHODOLOGY	
   39	
  
3.1	
   RESEARCH	
  PHILOSOPHY	
   40	
  
3.1.1	
   POST-­‐POSITIVISM,	
  BETWEEN	
  THE	
  NATURALISTIC	
  AND	
  THE	
  SCIENTIFIC	
  POINT	
  OF	
  VIEW	
   40	
  
3.1.2	
   TRIANGULATED	
  APPROACH	
   44	
  
3.2	
   RESEARCH	
  DESIGN	
   44	
  
3.2.1	
   DEDUCTIVE	
  REASONING	
   45	
  
3.2.2	
   EXPLORATORY	
  AND	
  EXPLANATORY	
   47	
  
3.2.3	
   ACTION	
  RESEARCH	
   47	
  
3.2.4	
   QUANTITATIVE	
  AND	
  QUALITATIVE	
   48	
  
3.3	
   RESEARCH	
  TOOLS	
   48	
  
3.3.1	
   SECONDARY	
  RESEARCH	
   49	
  
3.3.2	
   PRIMARY	
  RESEARCH	
   50	
  
3.4	
   DATA	
  COLLECTION	
  AND	
  DATA	
  PRESENTATION	
   55	
  
3.5	
   RESEARCH	
  SAMPLE:	
  JUSTIFICATION	
  OF	
  SAMPLE,	
  SIZE	
  AND	
  CHANNELS	
  OF	
  DISTRIBUTION	
  FOR	
  
INTERVIEWS	
  AND	
  QUESTIONNAIRES	
   58	
  
3.6	
   ETHICS	
   59	
  
3.6.1	
   DATA	
  PROTECTION	
   59	
  
3.6.2	
   PRIVACY,	
  CONFIDENTIALITY	
  AND	
  SECURITY	
   60	
  
3.7	
   LIMITATIONS	
  OF	
  THE	
  RESEARCH	
   60	
  
3.8	
   CHAPTER	
  SUMMARY	
   61	
  
4	
   RESEARCH	
  FINDINGS:	
  ANALYSIS	
  AND	
  DISCUSSION	
   62	
  
4.1	
   QUESTIONNAIRE	
  FINDINGS:	
   63	
  
4.1.1	
   SECTION	
  ONE:	
  CONSUMER	
  BEHAVIOUR,	
  PERFORMANCE	
  AND	
  CHARACTERISTICS:	
  TWO	
  SORT	
  OF	
  
CONSUMERS.	
   64	
  
4.1.2	
   SECTION	
  TWO:	
  BRAND	
  EQUITY	
   68	
  
4.1.3	
   SECTION	
  THREE:	
  BRAND	
  LEVERAGE:	
  	
  CRUSH	
  COMPONENTS	
   73	
  
4.2	
   INTERVIEW	
  FINDINGS	
   80	
  
4.2.1	
   SECTION	
  ONE:	
  BRAND	
  STRATEGY	
   80	
  
4.2.2	
   SECTION	
  TWO:	
  ABOUT	
  REBRANDING	
  DRIVERS	
   82	
  
4.2.3	
   SECTION	
  THREE:	
  REBRANDING	
  STRATEGY	
   83	
  
4.2.4	
   SECTION	
  FOUR:	
  REBRANDING	
  EXPECTED	
  OUTCOMES	
   84	
  
4.3	
   CHAPTER	
  SUMMARY	
   87	
  
5	
   CONCLUSIONS	
   88	
  
5.1	
   INTRODUCTION	
   89	
  
5.1.1	
   OBJECTIVE	
  ONE:	
   89	
  
5.1.2	
   OBJECTIVE	
  TWO:	
   89	
  
5.1.3	
   OBJECTIVE	
  THREE:	
   90	
  
5.1.4	
   OBJECTIVE	
  FOUR:	
   92	
  
5.2	
   INDUSTRY	
  IMPLICATIONS	
   92	
  
5.3	
   ACADEMIC	
  IMPLICATIONS	
   93	
  
5.4	
   LIMITATIONS	
  OF	
  THE	
  STUDY	
   95	
  
5.5	
   RECOMMENDATIONS	
  FOR	
  FURTHER	
  RESEARCH	
   95	
  
6	
   ANNEXURES	
   98	
  
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) x
6.1	
   SURVEYS	
  CONDUCTED	
   98	
  
6.2	
   INTERVIEW	
  TO	
  BRAND	
  /	
  COMMUNICATIONS	
  MANAGER	
  OF	
  BEN	
  SHERMAN	
   102	
  
7	
   LIST	
  OF	
  REFERENCES	
   106	
  
7.1	
   BOOKS	
   106	
  
7.2	
   REPORTS	
   108	
  
7.3	
   JOURNAL	
  ARTICLES	
   108	
  
7.4	
   ELECTRONIC	
  SOURCES	
   110	
  
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) xi
TABLE OF FIGURES
Figure 1. Aim and Objectives..........................................................................................9	
  
Figure 2. The CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:220)........................19	
  
Figure 3. The CRUSH Components from CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer,
2011:48).................................................................................................................24	
  
Figure 4. Impact of Rebranding Mix on Brand Equity Assets. ......................................34	
  
Figure 5. Consumer-based brand equity relationship between dimensions created from
Pappu et al. (2005) findings and other researchers papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-
Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000). ...................................................................36	
  
Figure 6. Descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010). ......41	
  
Figure 7. Research Methodology Overview..................................................................46	
  
Figure 8. Map for the questionnaire and interview design. Integration of Consumer-
Based Brand Equity model (before in this paper, p. 32) with the CRUSH model
(before in this paper, p. 23)....................................................................................56	
  
Figure 9. Classification of 35 survey participants based on their relation to fashion ....64	
  
Figure 10. Classification of the 35 survey participants based upon whether they had
purchase in Ben Sherman or not...........................................................................65	
  
Figure 11. Subclassification of the 10 survey participants that had purchased in Ben
Sherman before or after the rebranding based on their relation to fashion ...........65	
  
Figure 12. Comparison of logos of the brands that compete in the same market of Ben
Sherman. ...............................................................................................................68	
  
Figure 13. Participants awareness of Ben Sherman Rebranding.................................69	
  
Figure 14. Concepts that participants associate with Ben Sherman brand. .................71	
  
Figure 15. Changes regarding the perception of "Coolness" that participants had of the
brand before and after the Rebranding..................................................................74	
  
Figure 16. Changes regarding the perception of "Realness" that participants had of the
brand before and after the Rebranding..................................................................75	
  
Figure 17. Changes regarding the perception of "Uniqueness" that participants had of
the brand before and after the Rebranding............................................................76	
  
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) xii
Figure 18. Changes regarding the perception of "Happiness" that participants had of
the brand before and after the Rebranding............................................................79	
  
Figure 19. New Model. Integration of Consumer-Based Brand Equity model
(Figure 4) with the CRUSH model (Figure 3). ....................................................91	
  
Figure 20. Impact of intangible returns on the Intangible returns to explain the return of
the investment in rebranding. ................................................................................94	
  
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 1
1. INTRODUCTION
Rebranding is widely practiced amongst fashion brands. The fierce competition
and innovative nature of the industry obligates brands to adapt to the upcoming
generations to remain in the mainstream. However, those practices are very risky,
costly and time-consuming. These are just few of the reasons for which is found
necessary to find the most reliable method to calculate the return on investment on a
Rebranding.
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 2
1.1 THE STEEPLECHASE: UK FASHION APPAREL AND THE
RECESSION
In the current context of the oversaturated Fashion Retail Market, to build a
strong and balanced brand is crucial in order to create options of growth, barriers to
entry for competitors, command market share and build consumer loyalty (Petburikul,
2009:155). The conditions of a highly dynamic apparel dominated by seasonal trends,
lead in the UK to the need from the fashion industry to take into account the diversity of
the segments and the diversity of perceptions and attitudes towards brands and
fashion trends amongst individuals (Experian, 2010).
Furthermore, according to Gilani (2006:2) is the ephemeral nature of fashion trends
itself, which positions the sector in a critical situation. Clothing brands risk looking tired
or to be upstaged by competitors that have read their segment of the market better.
Therefore, not only the obsolete products, but also the image, values, and equity of
these brands that remain unchanged, risk their position, as stated above, the
perception that consumers have of fashion brands are changing continuously
(Petburikul, 2009, Bergh and Behrer 2011).
In addition to the difficult landscape, since 2011 the clothing landscape in the UK has
been altered for both retailers and consumers, mostly due to the economic recession
that has changed notoriously behaviours and performances. The statistics generally
highlight how challenging the market still is and that consumers are being extremely
cautious on their expenses. According to Mintel (2011:2) after more than a decade of
deflation, the consumers curtail their spending and think twice when buying garments.
For instance, the consumers surveyed by the sources such as Mintel, Verdict, and
Emerald, coincide on the claim to be spending less than they used to do on the apparel
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 3
(Hilary Monk, 2011). The claims by the consumers are supported by facts: for the first
part of the 2011, the sector sales growth shows a slowing to a 2.9% by value, and to a
0.3% by volume. Despite some retail analysts believe that those inflationary pressure
conditions could start to improve by the second half of 2012, many sources (Verdict,
2012a and Hilary Monk, 2011) have registered in their clothing retailing reports that for
the third consecutive year the percentage of consumers shopping for clothing is
dropping.
1.2 THE STRATEGY: THE MOST STABLE IS MOVEMENT
Furthermore, as noted generally by market forecasting experts, very few reliable
indicators suggest the current situation is likely to change anytime soon. This may be
the main reason for which many companies in the fashion retail market are hurrying to
make operational investments to maintain their current levels of profitability. With the
arousing of new market trends, companies and consumers, a brand should reinvent
itself to at least maintain its market segment and to preserve its brand equity. Similarly,
Petburikul (2009:155), defend those strategic investments in rethinking business
directions, to the companies aiming to keep up with fierce competition, to at least, have
a chance in the fight for the narrowed market share.
A lot has been written about the consequences or effects of the evolution and changes
on the market and consumer preferences, and thus, some recommendations have
been done to affront the panorama. It has been commonly found that in order to
maintain the “momentum” in the context of these seasonal and highly volatile markets,
the retailers have to keep up the pace of this fast development and creativity in order to
survive, otherwise, those retailers that are left behind, become extinct (Gilani, 2006:1).
Supporting this, in other words: “Companies will occasionally discover that they may
have to re-position the brand because customers change preferences and new
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 4
competitors enter the market” (Petburikul, 2009:156). Additionally and referring to the
brand diffusion, researchers have stated that brands will always need to take
opportunities to change a brand in order to sustain the accuracy of brand equity (de
Chernatony and Cottam, 2006; Keller, 2000) or that in order to face the erosion of the
position of a firm in the market, especially when it is due to an out-dated image or
reputation problem, is recommended to undertake repositioning actions (Kapferer,
2008: 262, 263).
In order to revive a brand that is becoming obsolete in such a saturated market,
Rebranding is commonly perceived as a necessary strategy that can escalate a new
business image to build confidence to the consumers, to struggle market share.
Furthermore, according to (Verdict, 2012a) for building confidence to the consumers,
retailers need to investigate who their shoppers are, understand them and mending
offers to sustain existing shoppers to attract new ones. Thus, recapitulating, to face the
narrowing and difficult market context and the consumer’s new preferences and
attitudes towards fashion and shopping, it is commonly supported that retailers will
need to look closely at who their shoppers are.
1.3 THE SUBJECTS OF THE OPPORTUNITY: THE NEW WAVE OF
CONSUMERS
In the context of the current recession, the large numbers and potential
marketing influence of the new generation of consumers, has been largely ignored.
The lack of employment frustrates the career development of the youngest sectors,
their expenditure has been reduced and many of them are delaying to move out and
establishing their own households to build their families. Sources such as Verdict &
SAAS (2012:7) show that despite of the significant growth in the young fashion sector
over the last five years, the rising cost of going to university and the difficulties of
getting a job post graduation will inhibit sales growth in the segment. It is believed that
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 5
these facts will make the young fashion sector more challenging, even for the largest
operators, as this group of consumers is nowadays hit financially.
On the other hand, they are believed to be a generation with a very high buying power
(Bakewell et al., 2006:170), as they have annual incomes totalling USD211 billion and
spend USD39 billion per year (in the USA) (Nowak et al., 2006:316). More actualized
sources, in the current economic context, also describe this group as high spenders
with an annual average of 2000£ in the UK (Paul Edwards, 2009), brand conscious and
loyal. Moreover, at the beginning of 2012, according to Marilynn Hood (2012), this
group is the most important marketing concern to come along in decades, and by 2017
their spending is expected to surpass that of the boomers.
It is therefore logically, that currently, the most struggled target group to comprehend
may be the commonly known as Generation Y, for being identified as the future
consumers of most brands (Goldgehn, 2004; O’Donnell & Yarrow, 2009; Wheeler,
2009; Bergh & Behrer, 2011). Despite the discrepancies, they are generally defined as
the last generation born before the 21th century. It is told that is the group of
consumers that will determine how consumer markets evolve in the next three decades
(Bergh & Behrer, 2011). In addition, Nowak et al., (2006:316) reveals that the Gen Yers
population is much larger than the previous Generation X (over 12.5 million persons),
currently representing more than 20% of total population in UK (US Census Bureau
International Database), what makes even more relevant their unprecedented
consumer characteristics.
In fact, brands are nowadays, aiming to make some changes within their brand assets
to target Generation Y because most of this new wave of consumers are currently
developing and establishing their brand preferences, as most of them age between 15
and 25 (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002:393-408). Not only are believed to have
unprecedented purchasing power but they are also thought to be vital to the continuing
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health of fashion marketing as they love shopping especially for clothing (Taylor and
Cosenza, 2002), spending two thirds of their budgets on clothing (Bakewell et al.,
2006:170). It is therefore, coherent that fashion brands aim to revitalise their image in
accordance to their preferences.
1.4 THE CHALLENGING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GROUP
Nevertheless, the pressure is high for marketers when trying to deal with a
challenging group of consumers to engage, as they are considered the most
marketing-savvy generation (Bergh & Behrer, 2011) of teens and 20-year-olds ever.
Due to this high level of education and knowledge of marketing, traditional structured
forms of communication do not work well with this generation (Goldgehn, 2004:24), as
they are more aware and familiar with brand strategies due to their extensive contact
with the media and their varied skills.
In addition, is a real need to be aware of their preferences, in order to predict their
behaviour, as this group of consumers have also a high power of influence to the
spending habits of their parents (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002: 393). In Gen Buy, (O’
Donnell & Yarrow, 2009:13) a case that supports the theory that Gen Y males effect
change, through their natural ease at forming teams and with their ability to connect
online, they are empowered and consequently more confident about themselves and
the value of their opinions. This means that with their influencing power, any false
move from the brand, could easily lead to its failure.
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1.5 THE IMPORTANCE OF MEASURING THE RETURNS
Despite the challenge of engaging that group, it has been noted (Stuart and
Muzeller, 2004:472-481) that different branding strategies, have positive effects on
generation Y and have been identified as one of the solutions to respond the challenge
of new market conditions. Despite repositioning and rebranding strategies are widely
practised by firms to modify the brand, they continue to be considered one of the most
risky in brand management (Kapferer, 2004:415). Moreover, rebrandings are costly,
time consuming and the percentage of failed cases when rebranding is higher
compared to the successful cases (Causon, 2004; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004).
Since a rebranding strategy can cost millions of pounds, and it can even lead to the
failure of a company due to the unpredictable reaction of consumers, it is therefore
necessary to plan and measure the impact of the new branding strategy. It is crucial to
predict accurately the effects that such changes may produce on the consumers and
their reaction or behaviour. Kapferer states:
“No matter how much it stresses added value, value creation and return on
capital investments, marketing cannot continue to evade the efficiency issue
(2008:60).
And consequently, recommends:
“Whether it involves changing the logo, brand icon, packaging, or launching a
brand extension or a promotion no marketing strategies should be applied
without first, specifying the expected financial return on investment, otherwise it
is not justified to allocate a particular amount to one particular investment rather
than to another” (Kapferer, 2008:50).
The reactions of the consumers have to be predicted in order to think the provable
returns of the strategy for the brand, whether talking in terms of tangible or intangible:
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revenues, sales, perception of the brand and others. Measuring these implications and
effectiveness for the strategies once implemented, is then, the current problem for
marketers. A lot of difficulties can be found when measuring the return on investment
of a branding initiative because of the difficulties of isolating it from other influences
such as consumer or market trends, product design and other environmental factors.
For the purpose of this dissertation, the Ben Sherman brand provides an exceptional
landscape to study the effects and implications of a revitalising oriented to the
generation Y consumers. Along with other brands, it has recently undergone changes
over all the variables of the marketing mix to reposition itself and meet consumer
expectations. With such revitalisation, it has recently evolved into a British modernist
lifestyle apparel brand targeted at stylish men aged 25 to 40 in multiple markets
throughout the world (Ben Sherman web page). The brand’s primary future target
market is the so-called Generation Y. The dissertation is aiming to target the same
consumer group that this paper has as an object of study, and its Head office is located
in London, which makes it more practical to contact the required departments.
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1.6 RESEARCH AIM AND OBJECTIVES
The aim of this research is to explore how a rebranding strategy of a fashion
brand impacts on a specific target group and its overall Return on Investment in terms
of intangible and tangible incomes for the brand, using Ben Sherman to reflect the
findings.
AIM$
Fashion$Brand$
Target$Group$
(UK$Genera9on$Y)$
Impact$on$Consumer$
Behaviour$
Consumer$Percep9on$of$
the$Brand$
Tangible$and$
Intangible$Incomes$
Marke9ng$Mix$Variables$
Brand$Image$and$Iden9ty$
Ben$Sherman$
F I N D I N G S $
Figure 1. Aim and Objectives
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The objectives of this research are drawn around the Fashion Rebranding strategies
on which three main fields of study can be distinguished. Those would include first: the
Rebranding strategies and the implications over the marketing mix; secondly, the
Generation Y: its definition, their perception of the brands, behaviour and performance;
and thirdly the return on investment in Rebranding strategies together with the
measurement of tangible and intangible incomes for the brand. Therefore, to achieve
the aim of the research it will be necessary to triangulate the isolated fields described
above from the data gathered from the literature review with the consumer and industry
point of view, relating it to the specific case of Ben Sherman through the following
procedure:
1. Explore the characteristics of the Generation Y and its consumer behaviour.
Connect the preferences or behaviours of Generation Y with the Branding
strategies.
2. Explore the Rebranding implications over the marketing mix in the fashion industry.
Contrasting the theory of the strategies with the practical cases and experts from
the field.
3. Explore the discussions about the measurement of the Return on Investment of
Rebranding.
4. Analyse the success of Ben Sherman’s ROI, in terms of tangible and intangible
values for the rebranding strategy in relation to Generation Y perspective and
make recommendations for rebranding in the fashion industry for this sector.
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1.7 STRUCTURE OF THE DISSERTATION
Part one of this thesis contextualises and exposes the objectives of the
research. Part two justifies the methodology and reason for the design and
investigation development of the paper. Subsequently, the literature review discusses
basic issues of rebranding implications over the marketing mix by different authors.
Further, describing Generation Y’s (the new wave of consumers) perception of brands,
their behavior and performance. Moreover, the return on investment of those strategies
to this concrete target market is examined and revised through different authors to
understand the most reliable ways to measure it, reaching the understanding of
intangible and tangible incomes that are represented for the brand. The next step
shows the findings of the data gathered from Generation Y consumers and an
interview to the brands Communications Manager. Afterwards, the findings from the
empirical section are discussed and analysed in reference to the theoretical framework
by linking the findings to the literature review. Finally, conclusion and recommendations
chapter is written with an action research approach when in order to analyse the
success or Return on investment of the concrete case of Ben Sherman.
1.8 CHAPTER SUMMARY
This chapter is an introduction to the study: The Impact of Rebranding on the
UK’s Generation -Y- Consumers. Calculating the ROI of the Ben Sherman Rebranding
strategy and its effects on the behaviour of the target market. The chapter provided a
brief overview of the research problem and the methods used to conduct the research.
Chapter two is the discussion of related literature review of Rebranding strategies to
Male Generation Y consumers and the return on investment.
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2 LITERATURE REVIEW
The literature review intends to present a theoretical framework about the three
main subjects of the research, and is divided equally into three sections. The first part
will present the reasons for rebranding, clarifying the concept and describing the
process and strategies from academics and practitioners. The second part aims to
present the generation Y of consumers focusing on male consumer values and
behaviour relating to rebranding strategies. The final section will define and revise what
has been written about the return on investment, explaining the different methods
suggested and how they should be measured.
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2.1 REBRANDING STRATEGIES
2.1.1 DEFINITION OF REBRANDING
The description and classification of terms that refer to brand changes have
always been confusing and misleading (Muzellec, et al., 2003). While many descriptors
have been used to explain the rethinking a brand’s identity, “rebranding” has been
specifically coined to describe the actions covering wider areas of the brand (Chai-lee
Goi, 2011). Rosenthal (2003) also supported the differences between rebranding and
repositioning, stressing that brand identity is not changed in repositioning. Indeed,
Muzellec et al. (2003), Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) and Rosenthal (2003) agree that
repositioning should be understood as a step or necessary part of a rebrand. Similarly,
Muzellec et al. defines rebranding as the action of “building a new a name that
represents a differentiated position in the mindset of stakeholders and a distinctive
identity from competitors” (2003: 32). Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) explain that
rebranding may include changes in marketing performance, aesthetics and
repositioning actions. Supporting this idea, Andrews and Kim (2007) assert that
rebranding intends to change both the existing perceptions among customers and the
company position in the market by creating a “new air” around the established brand, in
order to show a more competitive position and image to the internal and external
environment (Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006; de Chernatony and Riley, 1998).
Daly and Maloney (2004) suggest the existence of two supplementary parts in a brand,
the tangibles, which relate to facts and the intangibles, which relate to values, image,
emotions or feelings. Tangibles and Intangible components of the brand highlight that a
rebranding may consist of modifying some, or all of these elements. Thus, different
names or descriptors are proposed, depending on the grade of change a brand
requires (from minor to major changes):
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- Restyling, based on changing image and brand aesthetics;
- Repositioning, the position that the brand aims to occupy in the market,
shareholders, against competitors and in the consumer’s mind is rethought;
- Rebranding, attributed to the widest changes, in both image and position.
Despite the confusion among academics, journalists and practitioners about what
exactly is referred to in a rebranding action, Stuart and Muzellec (2004) seem to give a
more clarified explanation, through classifying the changes into two methods: Brand
Evolution (changes in slogan and logo) and Brand Revolution (changes in slogan, logo
and name), which despite the lack of precision, the results are less problematic and
more illustrative.
However, in practice, the real life examples do not follow any description to reinvent
their brands and encounter numerous problems when defining the actions undergone
by them. Although these issues should be urgently clarified, it could be solved
temporally, for rebranding cases, by specifying exactly which aspects of the brand
have undergone the changes: “a new name and logo, a new name, a new logo and
slogan, a new logo only, and a new slogan only” (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004:474).
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2.1.2 ISSUES IN REBRANDING:
“Innovation is the lifeblood of a brand” (Kapferer, 2001: 68)
As different brands have different products, structures, objectives and
situations, they require different formulas for Rebranding (Kitchen, 2010; Kapferer,
2001). In other words, Grant states that due to the rapidly changing business
environment of fashion apparel and its consumers, a brand depends on the success of
its last three or four ideas. (2006:270). Accordingly, academic researchers and
practitioners in branding mention the appropriateness of repositioning or revitalising
actions within a brand In order to keep the brand up to date (Muzellec et al., 2003;
Kapferer 2001).
Similarly, Muzellec et al. (2003) identify different drivers of a Rebranding: changes in
ownership structure, a change in corporate strategy, a change in competitive position
(erosion of market position, outdated image, reputation problems), and a change in the
external environment. (p.34). Parallel to this, Stuart and Muzellec (2004) stresses that
the objective of a Rebranding is to communicate to stakeholders that something about
the organisation has changed. Moreover, it is crucial that a organisation really does
have something new to say and that it is communicated effectively at the time of the
change. (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004:473). Accordingly, Muzellec and Lambkin (2006)
and Muzellec et al. (2003:33) identify two main goals of rebranding: creating a new
image and/or reflecting a new identity which internally affects employees and the
culture, as well as externally affecting all the stakeholders and the images they have of
the company.
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2.1.3 COMMON PRACTICES WHEN REBRANDING: REDESIGN, REPOSITION
AND COMMUNICATION
Although there is no uniform branding strategy suitable to all brands and cases,
different key elements or practices have been identified by academics and practitioners
(Aaker,1991; Keller, 2002; LaForet & Saunders 1994).
An early step, which has been commonly identified when working on revitalising a
brand, is to establish the drivers of the lack of consumption (Wheeler, 2009; Kapferer,
2001:115). For instance, for a brand that is being perceived as outdated or that has
reached bad connotations (Kapferer, 2001:62), it may be needed to identify the
reasons for which the brand initially succeeded, in order to recall the original equation.
As Kapferer states, it is not “copying the past new Mini, new Beetle” (2001:171), it is
rediscovering the essential components of the brands, the points of reference (Torella
2007:21).
After the diagnostic, it is also required to plan which segment the brand is aiming to
compete in, in order to revise the marketing mix variables in accordance to the aimed
target. (Torella, 2007:50.) This step, on which the brand may change its strategy
completely or slightly, is essential due to the prevalence of mature markets, the greater
diversity in customer needs, and the ability to reach specialised or niche segments
(Baines, et al., 2005). Additionally, Kapferer suggests the division between “the
already won” segment (of which brands commonly do not want to get rid of), and the “
still to win” segment (2001:119). Torella (2007) notes that companies tend to forget the
need to return to the beginning (2007:33). According to Kapferer (2001:34), this need
for reconstructing the lifecycle of the brand is due to the arousing of new target groups
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which do not know which are the characteristics or the differentiator element of the
product. Similarly, when planning the new positioning, it is recommended to think of
one by which the brand can be leader or to establish a new category without limiting a
future growth, allowing the longevity of the established changes. (Torella, 2007:60,61).
Nevertheless, any effort on rebranding is useless when not giving consumers reasons
for which the brand is suited to the new situation in question (Kapferer, 2001:119). It
has to be clear, not only the reasons for the change, but also, to identify the new
differentiator or added value that is offered (Torella, 2007:77-83).
Branding means associating a mark with an offer of value. Additionally, Kapferer
(2001:37) cites: “A strong brand should be unique, superior and special”. Agreeing to
this statement, in Zyman, (1999) it is deduced that a brand aiming to be competitive
should know which are the elements that add value to itself, in other words, the core
elements whose absence disqualifies the brand; indeed, the ones necessary to identify
the brand (Kapferer; 2001: 35, 41). Moreover, having a cohesive brand identity
increases the strength of the bond between customer and brand, affecting behaviours
that enhance brand profitability, customer lifetime value, and leverage (MacInnis and
Park 2005). Consequently, brand managers may focus exclusively on the intangible
aspect, which tends to make the brand less replaceable (Kapferer 2001: 34, 37).
However, customers often associate the brand identity with very concrete, tangible
attributes. As stated by Kapferer, when consumers describe brands they tend to move
from the concrete to the abstract (2001:32). According to these assumptions, a strong
brand identity does not excuse any weaknesses on the tangible part (ie. the product
itself).
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2.1.4 EXECUTION
Due to the fact of the existence of wider and more different sorts of consumers,
one of the most valued things when creating a new identity is the convergence of styles
and not just its mere repetition (Wheeler, 2009). However, variety shouldn’t lead to
incoherence but a generation common background theme (Kapferer, 2001:71), which
in Sicard (1998) is referred to as brand system. Furthermore, Kapferer (2001:169)
states that even if it’s necessary to re-shape products and ideas, repositioning the
brand in the market and consumer’s mind, it is impossible to become a reference
without maintaining a set of constant values over the time, as it may risk creating a free
associating mess of unconnected ideas (Grant, 2006:89). Accordingly, it would be
necessary to establish which aspects of the brand are inflexible and which others can
be changed. In other words, it should be identified what forms the essence of the
brand, and what is ephemeral in order to plan a long-lasting and coherent strategy.
(Kapferer, 2001:171).
Due to this essence, some fashion brands have managed to become emblems of
membership especially among youth (Grant, 2006:164). Certainly, youth clans that
share lifestyles or/and music tastes frequently share clothing styles and values (Grant,
2006:174). For instance, Nike has become the emblem of a motivation among
youngsters. Similarly, brands such as Ben Sherman or Dr Martin’s managed to convert
tight tiny-collar shirts and tall work boots into emblems of a youth culture.
However, even the most powerful brands risk their position. It is important to construct
a strong brand that drives to acquire brand leverage, what represents a combination of
brand satisfaction, recommendation and closeness to ideal (Kapferer, 2001:37-38).
Consequently, to have brand leverage it must be guaranteed first that the brand is
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sustainable throughout time and that it would “remain hot” year after year (Bergh and
Behrer, 2011).
Bergh and Behrer (2011) also identified the five elements that contribute to brand
leverage among youth. Those are: cool, real, unique, self-identification with the brand
and positive emotions engendered by thought of a brand. Those five elements work as
independent variables in two regression models, one explaining brand conversations
and another one explaining brand image. Seeing a brand with those attributes is
associated with greater brand leverage, and having a stronger brand (See CRUSH
Branding Model definition in the glossary).
Figure 2. The CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:220).
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2.2 THE NEW WAVE OF CONSUMERS: THE MALE GENERATION Y
CONSUMPTION
2.2.1 DEFINITION:
Despite of the discord about the concrete age of this group, most academics
and practitioners define the so-called “Millennials” as the ones born over the last 20
years before the twenty-first century (Yarrow, O’Donnell, 2009:XI; Berg & Behrer, 2011;
Pellegrin, 2009, Taylor and Cosenza, 2002; Goldgehn, 2004). However, this little
disagreement concerning the age, does not have a great impact when targeting due to
the delay” in growing up. It is found that people over thirty years old, nowadays, tend to
behave, dress and imitate younger people and their habits, behaving like “old-teens”
delay” in growing up. It is found that people over thirty years old, nowadays, tend to
behave, dress and imitate younger people and their habits, behaving like “old-teens”
(Berg & Behrer, 2011; Pellegrin, 2009).
It has been noted that there is a grade of difficulty to find gender specific literature
about the subject, which may be due to that differences between genders, leading to a
more homogenised shopping behaviour and performance. For instance, even if a
millennial male still shops less frequently, spending less time and money than the
female, he is still getting more interested in the field than previous generations. In
addition, data from surveys demonstrate that for both genders (71% male, 94% female)
clothes are their favourite thing to buy when shopping (45%), moreover, the 56% of
Yers associated the action of shopping with a “mental vacation” (Yarrow and
O’Donnell, 2009:53). Also, men are outpacing women in increased apparel spending.
In 2008, women’s apparel sales fell 6%, while men’s apparel grew 1%. Their interest in
fashion is increasing even amongst the oldest sections (Pellegrin, 2009), as they are
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becoming more confident of their masculinity (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:135).
Indeed, many notorious retailers such as Saks and Bloomingsdale’s, consider men’s
apparel to be the area of greatest potential growth (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009).
2.2.2 THEIR RELATION WITH THE BRANDS AND BRANDING:
There has been an increase in the interest for the Gen Y’ers due to its
interesting shopping performance and its repercussion, what may be due to the big
size of the group, as it will soon outnumber the previous baby boomer generation (Berg
& Behrer, 2011:6). Moreover, compared to their parents at the same age, and despite
the recession, they spend five times more and they are the least likely group to cut
back their spending after the onset of 2008 (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:66).
Although, they are better trained consumers, taking into account multiple variables
such as style, length of usage, impact and functionality before making a purchase
decision, and their confidence in self expression, along with the quick decision-making
and the desire to have it all now has a notable impact on their purchasing behaviour
and spending (Yarrow, O’Donnell, 2009:22,44). This makes them spend premium
amounts when they think an item is worth it (Goldgehn, 2004).
The challenge resides then in how to engage them, as according to Berg & Behrer
(2011:5), this generation grow up in an environment full of brands and commercial
media, which makes it difficult to capture or at least to maintain their attention or/and
interest. Researchers and practitioners (Williams et al., 2010; Ferguson, 2011) claim
that youngsters are aware of marketing tactics, and therefore more sceptical about
brand performance, believing that advertising and branding have no effect on them
(Bergh and Behrer, 2011:26-27; Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). Despite the belief that
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they are more immune to branding, a study from 2007 estimates that they still have
145 conversations a week about brands, which doubles the rate amongst adults (Hein,
2007). Yarrow and O’Donnell (2011) and Bergh et. al. (2011), agree in associating their
little interest in advertising with their willingness to have a more genuine, transparent
and honest interaction with the brands. Equally, the high level of attention and care
they had in their growing environment is reflected on their need of a professional
opinion and need of attention from friendly sales people (Yarrow & O’Donnell, 2009:45;
Taylor and Cosenza, 2002). Moreover youngsters want to be asked for their opinion,
and like to have the ability to influence the product (Goldgehn, 2004; Yarrow & O’
Donnell, 2009).
This demanding characteristic of the group can be rewarding. According to the study
conducted in Ferguson (2011) to the UK Millenials, brand loyalty is more volatile
amongst youngsters than older consumers. However, it is also found in that study that
they are more likely to feel easily more loyal and more willing to spread good news
about those brands that offer value or/and reward programs.
Despite the disagreements related to their loyalty, some academics and practitioners
(Goldgehen, 2004, Bergh and Behrer, 2011, Yarrow and O ‘Donnell, 2009) support the
idea that they should be targeted as soon as possible. First, because teenage brains
are still very flexible in this period, therefore, it is an important moment for brands and
products to communicate to this target group, (Berg & Behrer, 2011:16); secondly, if
they are consuming a certain brand in their young years, the brain will be programmed
for similar behaviour when they are adults. (Ferguson 2011, Goldgehen, 2004).
Additionally it is difficult to get them deviated from a brand once they find “their brand”
(Goldgehen, 2004). Moreover, brands should not risk misunderstanding their lifestyles,
and make themselves positively relevant by supporting their needs and enhancing their
values, as they are very influential and trustworthy between them when it comes to
learning about clothing brands (Berg & Behrer, 2011:26-27; Yarrow O ’ Donnell,
2009:25). Research from India reveals that men have a higher risk taking propensity
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when it comes to new brand experiences, and are maybe more likely to try new
products and to brand switch as a consequence (Ogden-Barnes, 2011). Certainly,
Yarrow O ‘Donnell, (2009) stresses the importance of the ability that Gen Y’ers have to
connect with others and their knowledge about technology, as any mistake from the
brand can spread in very short space of time damaging it broadly (Yarrow O ‘Donnell,
2009). However, Ogden-Barnes (2011) assert that mature male consumers are less
likely to talk to peers about their recent purchases than younger males, which may limit
the effectiveness of word of mouth marketing for new products aimed at older male
demographics.
2.2.3 WHAT DOES CREATE VALUE FOR THEM?
Neuroscientists have detected that some strategies work better to connect with
teenagers, but this requires a true knowledge of the underlying youth drivers and
needs (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). Furthermore, Karmarkar (2012) stresses in the
interview for Harvard Business School Magazine, that people aren't very good at
accessing where that value comes from, or how and when it is influenced by factors
like store displays or brands, thereby, we may serve from neuroscience to understand
the decision process.
Researches and surveys of the European Millennials are helping branding practitioners
and academics that struggle to understand this powerful group. One of the most
revealing studies is “Youthopia”: a study conducted by MTV Networks International in
2009 with seven thousand Gen y participants (aged 16-34) that helped to create a
snapshot of contemporary youth values, hopes and dreams of young people in Europe.
Bergh and Behrer (2011) and Bergh et al. (2011) suggest that reinventing a brand with
regard to those values, will uplift satisfaction, peer-to-peer promotion, and purchase
preference. Those values have an impact on brand image as well as on brand
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conversations, which leads to a substantial brand leverage for the company
(Goldgehn,2004). The other research, from Insite Consulting served from “Youthopia”
is full of case studies and interviews, aimed to develop a brand model addressed to the
Gen Y’ers. This study used both qualitative and quantitative research from consumer
approach and data provided from fashion brands about strategies and consumer
preferences amongst other categories.
Bergh and Behrer (2011) use the data from those and other researches to design the
CRUSH Branding Model that summarises the key aspects for developing branding
strategies to engage and retain European Generation Y consumers. Figure 3,
illustrates how those brands reach the status of being innovative, authentic, emphatic,
and emotive, generating word of mouth popularity and a more positive image amongst
youngsters, which leads to a strong and long-lasting brand.
.
Figure 3. The CRUSH Components from CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:48).
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2.2.4 WOWING THE NEW GENERATION: BRANDING STRATEGIES TO
GEN Y MALE
This section is divided into five subsections. Each subsection corresponds to
the five successful factors of youth brands identified by Bergh and Behrer (2011).
BE COOL, INNOVATIVE, POPULAR, ORIGINAL
Culturally assumed, fashion brands have, generally, the innate status of being original
and appealing. However, although fashion apparel is generally assumed to be
innovative and appealing itself, Bergh and Behrer (2011) state that even in the fashion
industry, brands should keep innovating to appear more appealing to the trendsetter
public. This public has the important characteristic to dictate trends and work as
communicators to the rest of the consumers. And thus it is important for the fashion
brands to connect and engage with them (Bergh & Behrer, 2011:74).
Additionally, data from “Youthopia” studies demonstrate that they are extremely curious
and favour what is real. Thus, those brands that appear to be linked with “cheap and
impatient”, less original or innovative, are also perceived as less cool. On the other
hand, those brands that enhance art and design, for instance, through showcasing
craftsmanship, favour the communication of uniqueness and originality (Bergh et al,
2011). In Ferguson (2011) it is shown that those brands that communicate success,
prestige and achievement were stated to be more likely to maintain relevant to Gen Y’
ers, as they look to stand out of the crowd.
Similarly, a new image for a brand should be consistent, and constantly exciting and
innovative, and confirming brand vision (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:61), thus
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strengthening the competitive advantage. Other authors suggest considering the option
to take some risks when rethinking the brand as a strategy to fight Male Y boredom,
which according to Goldgehn (2004), has been identified as one of the feelings that
youngsters try to avoid the most. Additionally, some researchers (Taylor and Cosenza,
2002; Goldgehn, 2004), suggest launching product varieties or limited editions to
engage them through the ephemerality and innovativeness. This is actually not that
risky, as for instance, when adding new products or extending lines, males would avoid
the product if it does not fit their taste. However, it is also advised that brands should
not forget that even when trying to stay cool and relevant it is important to maintain
coherence within brand personality and identity; otherwise it would be interpreted as a
fake buying of coolness (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:87).
BE REALLY AUTHENTIC, BUT DON’T SHOUT IT, WHISPER IT.
As commented before, male Y’ers refuse imitations and staged experiences,
(Bergh and Behrer, 2011) therefore, realness and authenticity acts as a differentiator.
However, the academics differ in the meaning of authenticity. While the classic
interpretation of authenticity proposed by Gilmore and Pine (2007) relates the term to
origin, history and heritage, this seems to be less appealing and relevant to the young
consumers, than the modern interpretation of authenticity. A more current definition of
authenticity is more related to being honest and transparent (being clear about the
DNA of the brand), and is found to be more appealing to the Youngsters (Beverland in
Bergh and Behrer, 2011:104). According to Bergh and Ruyck, (2011) a brand portrays
authenticity when it’s linked to its origins, to a place or to a heritage. A less specific
approach that includes both definitions above is found in Bergh and Behrer, where
authentic brands are defined as real and genuine: “a sincere collections of stories that
provide emotional connections” (2011:103).
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Since the perception of authenticity is highly subjective and socially constructed
(Goldgehn, L. 2004), Gilmore and Pine (2007) state that the induction of authenticity is
a driver of buying intention, and according to by Bergh and Behrer, (2011) is a
predictor of perception of originality and an enhancer of brand’s likeability.
Although Gen Y’ers seem to have respect for brands with a heritage, it is difficult trying
to dissuade them that some myths are untrue. Hence, as heritage should be genuinely
exposed and acknowledging that brand authenticity is linked to leading edge
consumers or celebrities such as musicians, the authenticity experience could be
increased by sponsoring certain events or people (Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 115).
Despite this, brands need to evolve and innovate, so that the roots and original spirit of
the founder may be reflected. It has been found that brands may have to look closer to
their heritage to find new opportunities, reinforcing the DNA of the brand (Bergh and
Behrer, 2011:105-107, Gilmore and Pine, 2007). Indeed brands may have to reinvent
themselves continuously without omitting their brand identity. However, brands should
not create barriers or incompatibilities to attract consumers. Supporting that idea, VP of
marketing Doug Palladini referring to VANS shoe brand commented that strong brands
should be able to appeal to different personalities and gender (Bergh and Behrer,
2011: 106).
UNIQUE BUT GROUP BELONGING
Uniqueness is also linked with authenticity. Berg and Behrer (2011:135-145),
recommend brands to claim for its DNA in all those elements of stimuli that lead to
uniqueness such as packaging, brand logo, events, and advertisements which will
support a consistent positioning (Wheeler, 2009).
Although Individualism is a key issue for teenagers, it does not imply isolation (Grant,
2006:246, Yarrow and O’ Donnell, 2009:50,111), actually, male Y’ers organise in youth
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subcultures showcasing uniformity in clothing, attitude, and music. Supporting this,
Ogden-Barnes (2011) explains that male Y’ers seek recognition, thereby when
choosing a brand, the same applies; they are expecting the validation from their
environment. Yarrow and O’Donell (2009) certainly support it by explaining that
shopping has turned for many as a hobby, something special that makes them feel
unique.
Unlike previous generations, being loyal to a concrete brand is not that important. The
protagonist is the person, and its style (communication and connection), not the item
that is being worn. Indeed, some defend that the magic is in the mix (Yarrow and
O’Donnell, 2009:111). Thereby, brands should not close barriers to different targets as
nowadays, different kinds of subcultures may share brands. Brands, which are not
open, risk losing potential consumers. Bergh et al. (2011), recommend that brands to
stimulate the personalisation or customisation for being drivers of uniqueness.
SELF-IDENTIFICATION WITH THE BRAND AND DIVERSITY
Brands and products provide a tangible way to communicate and/or reflect
values, interests and opinions (Tuten, 2007). Therefore, brands aiming to target them
should mirror their values and identity, resulting in being more appealing and valuable
for youngsters (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:39; Kapferer, 2001:136). This provides a
strong engagement and a direct effect on brand leverage (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). In
Bergh et al, (2011) it has been identified three levels of aspired identification or
connection with the brands amongst consumers: “who I am” - for instance with
Billabong; “I wanna become, or experiment”: Nike; or “I wanna make the world a better
place”: Desigual, Muji.
According to what stated previously, it may be important to create different lines or
brands to engage a wider range of youngsters (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:159-180;
Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). Moreover, Bergh and Behrer (2011) state that as brands
aren’t dictating styles anymore, they should offer more assortment and allow young
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people to interact with the brand elements they like. Supporting this idea, in Ogden-
Barnes (2011) it is shown that male youngsters are less affected by the self-affinity
feeling with the brand, what may permit the brand to appeal to a larger or less specific
public through creating new lines and products to cover the diversity of styles. For
instance, former global brand director of H&M, Jörgen Anderson (when participating in
the research for Insite Consulting) links the brand success to the brand’s diversity of
styles.
Additionally, N. Rollins states in Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009:120) that young people
can’t even predictably be divided into clear groups, because they don’t create identity
by associating with a certain category, like jock or nerd. In other words, they are very
flexible with their identity construction. This happens also between age groups: For
instance, AXE deodorant, which is targeted to men aged between eighteen and twenty
four, was enormously success with middle-school boys. Therefore, men taking note
stop using the product for being a kids’ product, and consequently, kids refused it as
well (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:123).
Kapferer states that the brand value can only be accumulated by creating a more
intense link between the brand and each of its consumers (2001:113), and requires
staying aware of what consumers want. In how cool brands stay hot (Berg and Behrer,
2011) is shown the case of Jack & Jones. The designers of the brand are still part of
the target group of the brand, and get inspired watching their peers. This relationship
between consumer and brand permits an absolute fulfilment of the needs and values of
the target market at any time. However, in Bergh and Behrer (2011:159-180) is
recommended not to promote the same values but to prove (otherwise the brand would
not be authentic) them by valuable products, musical and cultural events, as they have
been identified as determinants of engaging in subcultures.
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EMOTIONAL HAPPINESS:
A common characteristic to the “Gen Y’ers” is the need for escapism or
hedonism, which leads into the research of happiness or positive emotions. (Yarrow
and O’Donnell, 2009:123). According to Bergh and Behrer (2011) and Yarrow and
O’Donnell (2009), emotions are pivotal drivers of our buying behavior. Indeed, they are
believed to have a direct impact on consumer decision-making. Thus, emotions grab
consumer attention, create a buzz and stimulate word-of-mouth, leading to brand
engagement (Bergh et al, 2009; Bergh and Behrer, 2011:184,185,189).
For male youngsters, the concrete emotion of surviving risks or being engaged in new
situations leads to pleasure (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:19). Thereby, as suggested by
Bergh and Behrer, (2011:212) the key to emotional branding may be to create events
or experiences, delivering pleasure and gratification. Therefore brands may incorporate
emotions when communicating such as happiness, to help Gen Y’ers to forget about
their stress and minimise their negative emotions making it more appealing (Yarow and
O’Donnell, 2001:123, Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 189, 201).On the other hand, it is found
that they develop mental connections or associations, out of the store, between brands
and their own lives (Herbert Krugman in Kapferer 2001:137). Therefore, when wearing
brands that have positive feedback from the environment, they are more willing to find
an emotional connection with them (Bergh and Behrer, 20011:17).
Gen Y’ers consume and process the information differently: Yarrow and
O’Donnell state that they have a speedy style, fleeting and flitting attention, and their
tolerance for boredom is understandably low (2009:96). Thus, this need for stimulation
and instant gratification is also translated in consumer behaviour (Bergh and Behrer,
2011:21). Additionally, in “Why we buy” (2008), Underhill, noted that men, when faced
with multiple options would simply leave the stores (Yarrow and O’Donnell 2009:132).
Accordingly, in order to capture male Gen Y’ers, it is suggested to stay simple, to
supply them with some boredom-fighting merchandise and provide them few options to
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choose from (Yarrow and O'Donnell, 2009:131). On the other hand, the store
environment is also important. Customers want to feel comfortable, and secure in the
shops, they have to be cool, with the right smell, music and great atmosphere (Yarrow
and O'Donnell, 2009:50-51). For instance, in Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009) is stated
that Urban Outfitters is particularly appealing to men. The store mixes clothes, toys,
racy books and other playful merchandise in a sporadic, ever changing display that
feels like an adventure to shoppers (Yarrow and O’Donnell 2009:179).
2.3 RETURN ON INVESTMENT OF REBRANDING STRATEGIES
2.3.1 THE DIFFICULTIES OF MEASURING THE SUCCESS OF REBRANDING
AND ITS IMPACT ON BRAND EQUITY
Although there appears to be more failures than successes in rebranding
actions (Causon, 2004; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004), it still constitutes one of the most
practiced strategies amongst firms to modify the brand (Kapferer, 2004). Accordingly
Stuart and Muzellec (2004) stated that whether it involves changing the logo, the brand
icon or the packaging, or launching a brand extension or a promotion, it is generally
costly, time-consuming and risky, and thus, as stated by Kapferer (2001:59-60) none of
these recommendations should be made without specifying the expected financial
return on the investment.
As stated above, measuring the success of a rebrand is difficult. The motives for taking
actions differ and therefore the objectives do as well (Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006).
Despite the discrepancies in the rebranding definition, most practitioners and
academics agree on its main aim: to enhance the Brand Equity (Aaker, 1991; Causon,
2004; Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006; Petburikul, 2009) and generate added sales
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(Aaker, 1991). Moreover, researchers do recommend making changes in brand assets
in order to maintain brand equity (Keller, 2000; Chernatony and Cottam, 2006).
Empirical findings from the study of Goi (2012) and in accordance with most academics
(also justified in Goi, 2012:9) show how rebranding impacts on brand equity. In this
study, three of the most significant techniques or practices of rebranding are specified
(which accord with the description of strategies mentioned in the first section 2.1
Rebranding strategies): redesigning, repositioning, and recomunicating.
2.3.2 MEASURING BRAND EQUITY:
Aaker (1996:7) defines brand equity as: “set of brand assets linked to a brand,
its name and symbol, that adds or subtract from the value provided by a product or
service to a firm or to the firm’s costumers”. In Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995) is found two
techniques to measure brand equity, which tend be either financial or consumer-
related:
In one hand, according to the Financial-Based perspective, different methods can be
used to measure brand equity. For instance, Mahajan et al. (1991) used the potential
value of brands to an acquiring firm as an indicator of brand equity. On the other hand,
Simon and Sullivan (1993) based on the funds needed to establish a new brand in
relation with the probability of success. However, according to Cobb-Walgreen et al.
(1995), this method is only applicable when launching a new product. In Cobb-Walgren
et al. (1995:26) one method to measure brand equity (that is widely used in the
financial environment) is a formula that calculates the net brand related profits, and
then assigns multiple based brand strengths. According to this vision of brand equity,
other researchers defined brand equity as the value of a brand to the firm (Simon and
Sullivan, 1993; Pappu et al, 2005).
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On the other hand, based on the Consumer Perspective, brand equity is defined as the
value of a brand for the consumer (Aaker, 1991; Keller,1993; Pappu et al, 2005).
According to this perspective, Aaker 1991, suggests using a brand earnings multiplier
based on a weighted average of the brand on its key components: brand awareness,
brand associations, perceived quality, (consumer perceptions) brand loyalty (consumer
behaviour) (Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995). Accordingly, Aaker (1991) assumed that
consumer perceptions lead to behavioural manifestations of brand equity, which lead to
brand loyalty (Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995) and based on that consumer perception,
suggested it as another method to measure brand equity. This method consists in
rating and comparing branded and unbranded equivalent products. The same
perceived position is adopted in Keller (1993:2), which defends that brand equity as the
differential effect of brand knowledge on consumer response to the marketing of the
brand.
After considering the main two approaches to measure brand equity, it has been found
(Pappu et al.) more appropriate the consumer-based method rather than
business/accounting-based method for measuring brand equity in order to “secure a
better run of the investment” (2005:154). According to Pappu et al, the consumer-
based perspective corresponds to the added value of the brand to the consumer, this
has been more linked by researchers to brand equity (2005:144).
Thereby, after assuming that rebranding aims to impact on brand equity, (Petburikul,
2009; Aaker, 1991) and that brand equity refers to the brand’s added value for the
consumer (Pappu et al, 2005:144), it is possible to estimate what is the impact to the
consumer and returns for the brand of a rebranding strategy, reviewing what are the
components of Brand Equity and Rebranding Mix. Thus it could be done as a
comparison between the behavior and perception before and after the implementation
of the rebranding strategy. In any case, Cobb-Walgren (1995) stresses the importance
of accurate brand equity in order to have an effective equity management since it is
more difficult to measure new added value when lacking of the initial values.
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As shown in the graphic, there is a relation between how rebranding impacts on
consumer behavior and perceptions (brand equity) toward brands: Thereby, an
appropriate rebranding mix (repositioning, redesigning and re-launching or re-
communication) would impact positively on: brand awareness, brand associations,
perceived quality (consumer perceptions) and therefore on brand loyalty (consumer
performance). In other words, it would signify an intangible return for the brand with the
possibility to bring future tangible returns to the brand.
However, past studies found that rebranding strategies do not always have positive
effects on brand equity but sometimes have negative ones. For instance, Muzellec and
Lambkin (2006) indicate that since brand awareness is a key component of brand
equity, redesigning a brand is likely to further damage the equity of the brand. On the
other hand, it is found (Goi, 2012) that repositioning and a new method of
communication can both have positive effects on brand equity.
Figure 4. Impact of Rebranding Mix on Brand Equity Assets.
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According to these assumptions and despite the fact that redesigning is necessary
when rebranding, the brand should be redesigned carefully, because the bigger the
changes in the brand, the more likely the brand equity is to be weakened (Goi, 2012).
Despite these drawbacks, it has to be taken into account that the negative impact of
the redesign on brand equity that the study of Goi (2012) showcases, may be due to
the recent character of the rebranding. Indeed, in Rosenthal (2003) it is noted in order
to evaluate the real effects of a rebranding, needs at least ten years of time as
customers may not appreciate such changes immediately and react negatively if they
perceive that the core brand values have changed or disappeared after rebranding
(Haig, 2003).
2.3.3 CONSUMER-BASED BRAND EQUITY AND IMPACT ON PURCHASE
The customer-based brand equity and its effects on consumer behavior, leads
to tangible returns that are widely discussed in marketing theory. Chen and Chang
(2004:219-227) relate high levels of brand equity to higher rates of consumer
preferences and purchase intention. Equally, Pappu et al. (2005:34) states that firms
with high brand equity usually have good performance.
TsuiYii Shih (2010:58) indicates that marketing activities have important influence on
the brand equity and purchase intention. In the same study (Tsui Yii Shih, 2010) when
relating marketing strategies to brand equity and purchase intention, explains that first,
marketing strategies and consequently, brand equity, have significant positive effects
on the purchase intention of consumers and also have positive effects on brand equity
(2010:60). Supporting the other researchers, Moradi and Zarei (2011:543) also note in
their study about the impact of brand equity on purchase intention that the amount of
brand awareness, perceived quality, brand association and brand loyalty which
effectively, indicate brand equity. Moreover, their empirical findings (most of the
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participants being youngsters) also show that brand equity influences consumers’
brand preference and purchase intention.
Pappu et al. (2005) proposed associative relationships among four consumer-based
brand equity dimensions (figure 5), understanding its relation and performance towards
purchase behavior. Some researchers differentiate (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al,
1995; Pappu et al., 2005) and others associate or mix (Yoo et al, 2000) the dimensions
of brand awareness and brand associations.
The chart summarises Pappu et al. (2005) statements and other researchers’ papers.
(Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000) regarding brand equity when
performing branding actions.
Brand Associations
Brand LoyaltyPerceived Quality
Brand Awareness
Figure 5. Consumer-based brand equity relationship between dimensions created from Pappu et al.
(2005) findings and other researchers papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al,
2000).
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Return on Investment is conventionally based on evaluating the impact of expenses
with the revenues gained. A positive return happens when profits exceed the costs
involved. However, when trying to measure the returns of an investment in rebranding,
the main problem to be found is in the multiple external factors that can impact on
sales, and what drives to theorise.
Brand equity is being recognised by many researchers and academics as a
good predictor of purchase intention (Cobb et al. 1995; Moradi and Zarei, 2011) and its
measurement has been investigated by many (Cobb-Walgren et al., 1995; Moradi and
Zarei, 2011; TsuiYii Shih, 2010). Interesting and more explicative findings are shown
below:
Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995), finds through empirical research (where the target
audience surveyed were students) that those brands with higher levels of brand equity
generated significantly greater preference and purchase intentions. Furthermore, the
results from the research on how brand equity impacts on purchase intention and
brand preference of Moradi and Zarei (2011) show also that brand equity has a great
impact on those factors. In the same article (Moradi and Zarei, 2011:543) it is
highlighted that other researchers such as Chang and Cheng (2008) obtained the
same conclusion with their empirical studies.
Accordingly, Powell as a practitioner proposes a holistic approach to measure brand
equity, predicting to what extent the rebranding campaign is helping to improve the
intangible (some of brand equity assets) and therefore to what extent it is influencing
brand loyalty and the raise in purchases (tangible returns). Thus, Powell (2007)
explains that marketers should try to identify the measurable outcomes of rebranding
activities and correlate them with expected financial benefits. For instance, if a brand
spends X to increase in 1% brand awareness, correlating this percent of increase to
the increased purchase intention leads to a “nearly complete picture of how a
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Rebranding can drive incremental revenue, share and profit” (Powell, 2007:31
interview extract).
2.4 CHAPTER SUMMARY
Fashion brands used different methods to update themselves and capture the attention
of a certain target audience. According to which parts of the brand are affected by the
changes undergone by the brand, were found: redesign, repositioning and
communication. Being the current target of many fashion brands, the UK Male
Generation Y of consumers are found to have unique characteristics. Marketers are
challenged with this marketing-savvy generation who at the same time have a high
purchasing power. Literature for rebranding to the Generation Y Males and measuring
returns on investment of rebranding strategies was limited; this highlights the
significance of the current research study. Chapter 3 discusses the research
methodology that was used to describe the perception of the consumers towards
fashion rebranding and the impact on their performance.
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3 METHODOLOGY
This chapter aims to give to the reader detailed information about the research
approach, the methodology, the tools and the criteria used for the collection and
evaluation of the data. The chapter explains and justifies the Research philosophy and
design, followed by the tools used in secondary and primary data collection. Moreover,
exposes the sample group and the code of ethics presented to the participants in
surveys and interviews. It also explains the treatment and/or tabulation of the
information collected, in other words, how the data is collected and presented.
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3.1 RESEARCH PHILOSOPHY
It is found (Proctor, 1998) that when structuring a research study the fact to expose
personal beliefs or paradigms of the researcher, provides a better understanding of the
relation between the ontological assumptions (what entities exist) epistemological
assumptions (what can be known), and methodological assumptions (what research
designs are appropriate for generating new knowledge) on which is based the
investigation (Hunt and Hansen, 2010).
Indeed, it has been found specifically necessary in any research to specify the
philosophical approach, clarify its design, specify research methods and to make
awareness of the possible constraints and opportunities of particular approaches
(Easterby et al, 2002; Crossan, 2003; Hasslinger et al, 2007; Proctor, 1998). This
permits the researcher to avoid the inappropriate methodologies (Easterby et al, 2002)
and ensures consistency in the application of different methods to a research question
(Proctor, 1998).
3.1.1 POST-POSITIVISM, BETWEEN THE NATURALISTIC AND THE SCIENTIFIC
POINT OF VIEW
There is a wide variety of approaches to be used when researching, however the most
common are found to be: Relativism, Positivism, and Realism (Hunt and Hansen,
2010). In order to avoid confusions caused by the diversity of forms and differences in
approaches, it is found a appropriate to show the main forms of thinking and research
approaches. The chart shows a descriptive map of research approaches adapted from
Bisman (2010):
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In one hand, the interpretive way of approaching believes that reality is subjective, self-
referential, and therefore internally experienced, interpreted and constructed by the
mind (Morgan and Smirch, 1980), consequently, knowledge cannot be discovered
(Holden and Lynch, 2004). Moreover, this explorative approach stresses the
complexity of human mind and social world (Saunders et al, 2007) and accordingly it
uses qualitative methods through a naturalistic approach (Remenyi et al., 1998) what
often leads to the incapacity to make generalisations (Bisman, 2010). However, despite
it has been found the appropriate approach to study human behaviours (Bisman,
2010), for the concrete purpose of this research, this methodology has not been found
pertinent because it is precisely served from quantitative methods with the aim to find
generalised assumptions.
On the other extreme it is found the positivist philosophy of research, which is believed
to be the dominant among the general public (Bisman, 2010; Crossan, 2003). It
conceives the world as prior to the existence of human consciousness (Holden and
Lynch, 2004) and therefore, considering it as a tangible and immutable structure
independent of the human knowledge (Gill and Johnosn, 1997), the reality can be
observed and discovered. This scientific approach uses quantitative methods, such as
Figure 6. Descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010).
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experimentation or observation in order to discover human experience, what
contributes to keep the research free from values, passions and ideology of the
researcher (Ryan, 2006). However, the main obstacle to be found in positive research
is that contrary findings or those that simply can’t be explained are discarded (Bisman,
2010) in other words; it is not the nature of positivist approach to understand or search
for contextual reasons for those anomalies. These facts make the current research
distance from the scientific approach because the strict use of this approach would
lead the findings to a lack of any contribution that statistical data is able to provide.
While the purpose of this investigation, is concretely, to research about perceptions,
behaviours and performances of humans and its reasons; the positive approach, as
highlighted in Ryan (2006:14), is though to be inadequate to explain and predict social
trends.
On the other hand, despite subjective and objective researches are generally
conceived as counter views, they are commonly used in conjunction. In Crossan
(2003) is highlighted that scholars have suggest that the distinction between different
philosophies is exaggerated and that the mixture of methods is common in research.
This is precisely the case of the post-positivist approach, which serves this
investigation to proceed with a combination of qualitative and quantitative methods to
reach and explain the findings. Post-positivism critical realists recognise that all
observation is fallible therefore every theory is revisable. This point explains the fact
that although exists so many researches about the impact of marketing strategies on
consumer behaviour, each of them still contributes to generate new knowledge of the
field. In the same manner, post-positivism emphasises the importance of multiple
measures and observations each of which may possess different types of error, and
therefore supports the usage of different research tools as for instance those used in
this research such as interviews and questionnaires. Accordingly, researchers and
practitioners (Trochim, 2006; Bisman, 2010) stress that objectivity can be reached
through the application of multiple or mixed research methods and that it benefices
those studies examining human behaviours and is therefore, considered appropriate
for the investigation conducted in this research.
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As shown in Figure 6, the Post-positivism is situated between the explanatory nature of
natural sciences, and the aim to understand of social sciences, what enhances the
creation of knowledge (Ryan, 2006; Raddon, 2010). Some believes about the nature of
Social Research (shown below) support the appropriateness of the Post-positivist
approach ad therefore, it has been found the most appropriate in order to conceive and
relate to each other the fields of human behaviour and marketing strategies.
-Research is broader than specialised
-Theory and practise cannot be separated and
-Proper research does not only concern correct techniques for collecting and
categorising information.
(Shratz and Walker, 1995:1-3; Ryan, 2006).
To deal with the objectives of this is research, this approach supposes an advantage in
understanding human performance because it connects researchers and the people
who participate in research. Not only contributes to a better understanding of the
consumers point of view, but it also allows a closer approach to a real Rebranding
practice (The case of Ben Sherman Rebranding). In Ryan (2006) is highlighted that in
this sort of research, the investigators learn with the subjects of the study rather than
conducing research on them in other words, it is adopted a learning role rather than a
testing one. Additionally, it is also noted that critical realism method of post-positivist
approach, detect differences between reality and people perception of reality. This,
applied to the research that concerns in this paper means to contrast the industry
perceptions and previsions versus the real point of view of the consumer, its perception
and performance.
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 44
3.1.2 TRIANGULATED APPROACH
In accordance with the post-positivist methodologies, a Triangulated approach is
chosen due to the belief that the data extracted from those researches is more reliable
as it provides richer and more comprehensive information. Different fonts provide the
data that is collected for the investigation. From academic books to research papers
and from the consumers to the Ben Sherman brand itself, provide information that is
contrasted in order to approach the maximum objectivity and to find the causes of such
reality. Such “multiple-source” approach provides the research with validity, reliability
and updated data. Bailey and Turner (2009:2) suggest that when an independent third
party asks questions separately to a company and its customers, it creates a
triangulation of perspectives that helps to clarify issues better than one-way, single-
observer research, additionally, thoughts are shared more candidly to an independent
third party. Summarising, this approach is appropriate because of the non-interfering
nature of the researcher in the results and investigation for not belonging to or having
relation with any of the groups or facts on which the research is conducted.
3.2 RESEARCH DESIGN
As found pertinent for the research, this chapter is organised in order to show all the
major parts of the research project, since, exposed by Trochim (2006) the research
design provides the structure that holds the research project together.
In order to accomplish with the aim of this investigation, this research is taking a
deductive approach. Firstly, with explanatory means, is searching for common
behaviours amongst consumers and secondly, is moving to a more exploratory
approach to understand the reasons and consequences of those common features
found in the first part.
The investigation starts from the review of what has been written by other researchers,
academics and practitioners regarding branding, consumer behaviour and return on
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 45
investment subjects. This first theoretic framework helps to narrow down from the
global fields to the specific facts found interesting to be analysed in the posterior
chapters. And is in the second part of the research, when those facts in the fields are
tested and explained through the use of questionnaires and interviews. After an overall
revision and relation between all facts, conclusions are written with the intention to
create new and useful knowledge for the fields.
3.2.1 DEDUCTIVE REASONING
The research would generally use a deductive mode of reasoning. It would be moving
from the general cases in rebranding of fashion brands to the specific case of Ben
Sherman brand. As noted above, deduction reasoning works from the more general to
the more specific. This research commences with thinking up a theory about a topic of
interest. Following, the issues are narrowed down to more specific hypothesis that can
be tested, even further when collecting data from the observations to address the
hypotheses. This ultimately provides the necessary support to test the hypotheses with
specific data (confirming or not the proposed theories). In the Literature Review of this
research (Chapter 2), previous theories on the subjects are discussed in order to
contrast with the data collected in this research from the surveys to Consumers and
Industry.
As recommended in Goldbort (2006) it is provided a clear step-by-step flow of research
(Figure 7) and explain the components of the research to avoid ambiguity.
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 46
!
EXPLORE HOW A REBRANDING STRATEGY OF A FASHION BRAND IMPACTS ON A
SPECIFIC TARGET GROUP AND ITS OVERALL RETURN OF INESTMENT FOR THE BRAND.
1. Explore the
characteristics of
the Generation Y
and its consumer
behaviour.
!
2. Explore the Re-
branding
implications over
the marketing mix
in the fashion
industry.
3. Explore the
discussions about
the measurement of
the Return on
Investment of
Rebranding.
4. Analyse the success
of Ben Sherman ROI, in
terms of tangible and
intangible values for the
Rebranding strategy in
relation to Generation Y
perspective and make
recommendations for
Rebranding in the
fashion industry for this
sector.
Generation Y:
Definition, Their
Perception of
the brands,
Behaviour and
Performance.
Re-branding
implications
over the
Marketing Mix
Interviews to
Brand/Communications
manager
THE INDUSTRY
OBJECTIVES
THE CONSUMER
Questionnaires to
customers
LITERATURE REVIEW
TRIANGULATION
OF DATA
Return of
Investment in
Re-branding
strategies:
Measurement:
Tangible and
Intangible
incomes for the
brand.
ACTION RESEARCH
ANALYSIS OF BEN SHERMAN
REBRANDING
ANALYSIS OF initial
FINDINGS
CONCLUSION
DISCUSSION
AIM
RESEARCH
METHODOLOGY
CREATION OF A MODEL OF
REBRANDING ROI MEASUREMENT.
Integration of CRUSH Branding Model
(Bergh and Behrer, 2011) and Consumer-
Based Brand Equity Model (Pappu et al,
2005).
Figure 7. Research Methodology Overview
MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers
Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 47
3.2.2 EXPLORATORY AND EXPLANATORY
In this investigation, the Exploratory method is selected to gain new insights, “discover
new ideas and/or increase knowledge” (Burns and Grove, 1998:38) of Rebranding
effects on Gen. Y consumers and its returns for the brand. The surveys to consumers
and interviews managers are interpreted with an ethnographic approach. This
qualitative research design supported by the literature review acknowledged in the
second chapter (Literature Review) would permit a comprehension of their cultural
behaviour. On the other hand the Explanatory approach is used to find common
patterns and quantify them, balancing the research with the provision of numerical,
statistic data about the specific case of this research.
3.2.3 ACTION RESEARCH
In order to accomplish with the aim of the research, the Ben Sherman case of
Rebranding has been found appropriate as it embodies a common situation under
study in this research. For this reason, the research narrows and focuses to the
concrete case of Ben Sherman aiming to find out the returns and the impact of the
recent changes or/and actions within brand assets and performance to a specific and
group of population. This approach is mainly taken when gathering data in primary
research, but is also present in every step of the research. Consequently, the research
about rebrandings and Return on Investment, is carried in accordance with the main
characteristics of the brand: is a Fashion company Rebranding with European Male
Gen Yers as a target group. According to Coughlan and Coghlan (2002), where Action
Research is defined as an approach to research that aims both at taking action and
creating knowledge or theory about that action, it is deducted that the concerning
research is taken with this approach. It has also been found, appropriate as Action
research is popular in management (Dawson, 2009:17) and enables the comparative
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Final disseration gar11348260 pgf_madmffi

  • 1. The Impact of Rebranding on the UK’s Generation -Y- Consumers. Calculating the ROI of the Ben Sherman Rebranding strategy and its effects on the behaviour of the target market. Key words Rebranding, Brand image, Brand equity, Brand identity, Brand perception, Generation Y, Consumer behaviour, Reinvention, Adaptation, ROI measurement. Unit: Final Dissertation Student: Paula Garcia Ferrer Student ID: GAR11348260 Course: MA DMFFI Date: 30/11/2012
  • 2. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) ii STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY “I declare that no portion of material in this dissertation has previously been submitted for a degree or other academic qualification of this or any other educational institution, and that to the best of my knowledge contains no material previously published or written by another person except where due acknowledgement is made” Name: Paula G. Ferrer Signature: Date: 30th November 2012
  • 3. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) iii DIGITISATION CONSENT FORM I hereby give my consent for my dissertation / report to be copied* and stored electronically in the library. I understand that it is University policy to lodge a copy of student theses and dissertations in a library of the University. (See Student Zone, Regulations: ownership of student work). I understand that in order to protect my intellectual property rights, access is only made available to current University of the Arts London staff and students and downloading and printing are prohibited. Course: MA Design Management For The Fashion Industries Name: Paula G. Ferrer Signature: Date: 30th November 2012
  • 4. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) iv ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to express my sincere appreciation to my supervisor Francess Ross for her guidance support and encouragement despite the difficulties towards the development and completion of this study. I would like to express my appreciation to my parents Montse and Angel, and to my sister Mireia, who always loved and supported me. I would like to thank all my friends, especially Gokhan Demirci and Tiziano de Mattia who always provided me for their technical support and encouragement. I would like to express my appreciation to all survey participants who participated in that study and more especially to MR. O.C. and J.M. FROM Ben Sherman Ltd., who provided fundamental and indispensable information to reach the objectives of the study.
  • 5. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) v ABSTRACT Due to the need to adapt to the new preferences and behaviours of upcoming generations of consumers, brand changes have become a common practice in the fashion industry. The impending group of consumers are the so-called “Generation Y”, which despite the recession, appear to have an impressive purchasing power (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). They symbolise the commencement of a new era in which consumers and brands interact in a different ways. The reason for this is due to the consumer’s high standards and knowledge of marketing strategies, which in retrospect present a challenge for most fashion marketers to find new ways of interaction. Taking into account the large quantities that brands spend on rebranding (Experian, 2010), marketers have to justify the reasons for which the brands investments are assigned to and control the returns expected. Despite this fact, it is generally accepted that brand sales do not only depend on brand perceptions of consumers but many various amount of factors. Thus, it is found necessary to find which strategies are successful amongst “Generation Y” consumers and to design a model to monitor the results of the investment (Kapferer, 2001). Accordingly, this research is examining how rebranding strategies of a fashion brand impact on the perception, behaviour and performance that a specific target group (Generation Y) have of the brand, whilst analysing and studying the overall return on investment of a rebrand in terms of tangible and intangible incomes. For the purpose of this dissertation, the brand in question will be Ben Sherman. Through the integration of two existent models, a new model was created to measure the Return on Investment of brand changes: the Consumer-based brand equity and the CRUSH Branding Model. The new model has the advantage of measuring intangibles from the consumer’s point of view, and allowing the ability to predict the tangible returns on investment of the brand whilst isolated from any external factors that could impact on sales.
  • 6. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) vi GLOSSARY Term Definition Location within the document Rebranding Process that implies the redesign and rethinking of one or more parts of the brand. (Wider definitions of the concept are found in section 2.1.1, located in the second chapter of this document.) (All doc.) Generation Y Millennials Gen Yers Demographic group widely assumed to be born between 1980 and 2000. (Wider definitions of the concept are found in section 2.2.1, located in the second chapter of this document.) (All doc.) Return on investment A performance measure used to evaluate the efficiency of an investment or to compare the efficiency of a number of different investments. (Wider definitions and measurement techniques regarding Rebranding strategies are found in section 2.3, located in the second chapter of this document.) (All doc.) Brand evolution Changes undergone by the organisation within its logo and slogan. p.19 Brand revolution Changes undergone by the organisation within its logo, slogan and name of the brand. p.19 CRUSH Branding Model Term used in Bergh and Behrer (2011), to refer to the 5 success factors of a youth brand. p. 23, 28, 56, 57, 70
  • 7. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) vii Youthopia A research conducted by MTV Networks to young people in Europe which aimed to understand their values, hopes and dreams. This information led to the conception of the CRUSH Branding Model. p. 28 InSites consulting Research agency that took part in the investigation for Youthopia study. p. 28 Rebranding Mix Different tools or and strategies used in Rebranding, which mainly correspond to: redesigning, repositioning, re-communicating (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004). p. 39 Brand conversations Term used in Bergh and Behrer (2011), to refer to the amount of conversations that youth have about brands. p. 28, 56-59 (FFT) Fashion Follower and Trendsetters Both interested in fashion. While the trendsetter, acts as a fashion communicator for the rest of fashion followers, the fashion follower, is a person who looks toward others (such as Trendsetters or innovators) to be informed about latest trends and fashions. p. 66-69 (NIFTI) Not interested in fashion trends or innovativeness Person who doesn’t follow fashion trends and it is not interested in fashion. p. 66-69
  • 8. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) viii TABLE OF CONTENTS STATEMENT  OF  ORIGINALITY   II   DIGITISATION  CONSENT  FORM   III   ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS   IV   ABSTRACT   V   GLOSSARY   VI   TABLE  OF  CONTENTS   VIII   TABLE  OF  FIGURES   XI   1.   INTRODUCTION   1   1.1   THE  STEEPLECHASE:  UK  FASHION  APPAREL  AND  THE  RECESSION   2   1.2   THE  STRATEGY:  THE  MOST  STABLE  IS  MOVEMENT   3   1.3   THE  SUBJECTS  OF  THE  OPPORTUNITY:  THE  NEW  WAVE  OF  CONSUMERS   4   1.4   THE  CHALLENGING  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  GROUP   6   1.5   THE  IMPORTANCE  OF  MEASURING  THE  RETURNS   7   1.6   RESEARCH  AIM  AND  OBJECTIVES   9   1.7   STRUCTURE  OF  THE  DISSERTATION   11   1.8   CHAPTER  SUMMARY   11   2   LITERATURE  REVIEW   12   2.1   REBRANDING  STRATEGIES   13   2.1.1   DEFINITION  OF  REBRANDING   13   2.1.2   ISSUES  IN  REBRANDING:   15   2.1.3   COMMON  PRACTICES  WHEN  REBRANDING:  REDESIGN,  REPOSITION  AND  COMMUNICATION   16   2.1.4   EXECUTION   18   2.2   THE  NEW  WAVE  OF  CONSUMERS:  THE  MALE  GENERATION  Y  CONSUMPTION   20   2.2.1   DEFINITION:   20   2.2.2   THEIR  RELATION  WITH  THE  BRANDS  AND  BRANDING:   21   2.2.3   WHAT  DOES  CREATE  VALUE  FOR  THEM?   23   2.2.4   WOWING  THE  NEW  GENERATION:    BRANDING  STRATEGIES  TO  GEN  Y  MALE   25   2.3   RETURN  ON  INVESTMENT  OF  REBRANDING  STRATEGIES   31   2.3.1   THE  DIFFICULTIES  OF  MEASURING  THE  SUCCESS  OF  REBRANDING  AND  ITS  IMPACT  ON  BRAND   EQUITY  31   2.3.2   MEASURING  BRAND  EQUITY:   32   2.3.3   CONSUMER-­‐BASED  BRAND  EQUITY  AND  IMPACT  ON  PURCHASE   35   2.4   CHAPTER  SUMMARY   38  
  • 9. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) ix 3   METHODOLOGY   39   3.1   RESEARCH  PHILOSOPHY   40   3.1.1   POST-­‐POSITIVISM,  BETWEEN  THE  NATURALISTIC  AND  THE  SCIENTIFIC  POINT  OF  VIEW   40   3.1.2   TRIANGULATED  APPROACH   44   3.2   RESEARCH  DESIGN   44   3.2.1   DEDUCTIVE  REASONING   45   3.2.2   EXPLORATORY  AND  EXPLANATORY   47   3.2.3   ACTION  RESEARCH   47   3.2.4   QUANTITATIVE  AND  QUALITATIVE   48   3.3   RESEARCH  TOOLS   48   3.3.1   SECONDARY  RESEARCH   49   3.3.2   PRIMARY  RESEARCH   50   3.4   DATA  COLLECTION  AND  DATA  PRESENTATION   55   3.5   RESEARCH  SAMPLE:  JUSTIFICATION  OF  SAMPLE,  SIZE  AND  CHANNELS  OF  DISTRIBUTION  FOR   INTERVIEWS  AND  QUESTIONNAIRES   58   3.6   ETHICS   59   3.6.1   DATA  PROTECTION   59   3.6.2   PRIVACY,  CONFIDENTIALITY  AND  SECURITY   60   3.7   LIMITATIONS  OF  THE  RESEARCH   60   3.8   CHAPTER  SUMMARY   61   4   RESEARCH  FINDINGS:  ANALYSIS  AND  DISCUSSION   62   4.1   QUESTIONNAIRE  FINDINGS:   63   4.1.1   SECTION  ONE:  CONSUMER  BEHAVIOUR,  PERFORMANCE  AND  CHARACTERISTICS:  TWO  SORT  OF   CONSUMERS.   64   4.1.2   SECTION  TWO:  BRAND  EQUITY   68   4.1.3   SECTION  THREE:  BRAND  LEVERAGE:    CRUSH  COMPONENTS   73   4.2   INTERVIEW  FINDINGS   80   4.2.1   SECTION  ONE:  BRAND  STRATEGY   80   4.2.2   SECTION  TWO:  ABOUT  REBRANDING  DRIVERS   82   4.2.3   SECTION  THREE:  REBRANDING  STRATEGY   83   4.2.4   SECTION  FOUR:  REBRANDING  EXPECTED  OUTCOMES   84   4.3   CHAPTER  SUMMARY   87   5   CONCLUSIONS   88   5.1   INTRODUCTION   89   5.1.1   OBJECTIVE  ONE:   89   5.1.2   OBJECTIVE  TWO:   89   5.1.3   OBJECTIVE  THREE:   90   5.1.4   OBJECTIVE  FOUR:   92   5.2   INDUSTRY  IMPLICATIONS   92   5.3   ACADEMIC  IMPLICATIONS   93   5.4   LIMITATIONS  OF  THE  STUDY   95   5.5   RECOMMENDATIONS  FOR  FURTHER  RESEARCH   95   6   ANNEXURES   98  
  • 10. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) x 6.1   SURVEYS  CONDUCTED   98   6.2   INTERVIEW  TO  BRAND  /  COMMUNICATIONS  MANAGER  OF  BEN  SHERMAN   102   7   LIST  OF  REFERENCES   106   7.1   BOOKS   106   7.2   REPORTS   108   7.3   JOURNAL  ARTICLES   108   7.4   ELECTRONIC  SOURCES   110  
  • 11. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) xi TABLE OF FIGURES Figure 1. Aim and Objectives..........................................................................................9   Figure 2. The CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:220)........................19   Figure 3. The CRUSH Components from CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:48).................................................................................................................24   Figure 4. Impact of Rebranding Mix on Brand Equity Assets. ......................................34   Figure 5. Consumer-based brand equity relationship between dimensions created from Pappu et al. (2005) findings and other researchers papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb- Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000). ...................................................................36   Figure 6. Descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010). ......41   Figure 7. Research Methodology Overview..................................................................46   Figure 8. Map for the questionnaire and interview design. Integration of Consumer- Based Brand Equity model (before in this paper, p. 32) with the CRUSH model (before in this paper, p. 23)....................................................................................56   Figure 9. Classification of 35 survey participants based on their relation to fashion ....64   Figure 10. Classification of the 35 survey participants based upon whether they had purchase in Ben Sherman or not...........................................................................65   Figure 11. Subclassification of the 10 survey participants that had purchased in Ben Sherman before or after the rebranding based on their relation to fashion ...........65   Figure 12. Comparison of logos of the brands that compete in the same market of Ben Sherman. ...............................................................................................................68   Figure 13. Participants awareness of Ben Sherman Rebranding.................................69   Figure 14. Concepts that participants associate with Ben Sherman brand. .................71   Figure 15. Changes regarding the perception of "Coolness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding..................................................................74   Figure 16. Changes regarding the perception of "Realness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding..................................................................75   Figure 17. Changes regarding the perception of "Uniqueness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding............................................................76  
  • 12. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) xii Figure 18. Changes regarding the perception of "Happiness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding............................................................79   Figure 19. New Model. Integration of Consumer-Based Brand Equity model (Figure 4) with the CRUSH model (Figure 3). ....................................................91   Figure 20. Impact of intangible returns on the Intangible returns to explain the return of the investment in rebranding. ................................................................................94  
  • 13. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 1 1. INTRODUCTION Rebranding is widely practiced amongst fashion brands. The fierce competition and innovative nature of the industry obligates brands to adapt to the upcoming generations to remain in the mainstream. However, those practices are very risky, costly and time-consuming. These are just few of the reasons for which is found necessary to find the most reliable method to calculate the return on investment on a Rebranding.
  • 14. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 2 1.1 THE STEEPLECHASE: UK FASHION APPAREL AND THE RECESSION In the current context of the oversaturated Fashion Retail Market, to build a strong and balanced brand is crucial in order to create options of growth, barriers to entry for competitors, command market share and build consumer loyalty (Petburikul, 2009:155). The conditions of a highly dynamic apparel dominated by seasonal trends, lead in the UK to the need from the fashion industry to take into account the diversity of the segments and the diversity of perceptions and attitudes towards brands and fashion trends amongst individuals (Experian, 2010). Furthermore, according to Gilani (2006:2) is the ephemeral nature of fashion trends itself, which positions the sector in a critical situation. Clothing brands risk looking tired or to be upstaged by competitors that have read their segment of the market better. Therefore, not only the obsolete products, but also the image, values, and equity of these brands that remain unchanged, risk their position, as stated above, the perception that consumers have of fashion brands are changing continuously (Petburikul, 2009, Bergh and Behrer 2011). In addition to the difficult landscape, since 2011 the clothing landscape in the UK has been altered for both retailers and consumers, mostly due to the economic recession that has changed notoriously behaviours and performances. The statistics generally highlight how challenging the market still is and that consumers are being extremely cautious on their expenses. According to Mintel (2011:2) after more than a decade of deflation, the consumers curtail their spending and think twice when buying garments. For instance, the consumers surveyed by the sources such as Mintel, Verdict, and Emerald, coincide on the claim to be spending less than they used to do on the apparel
  • 15. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 3 (Hilary Monk, 2011). The claims by the consumers are supported by facts: for the first part of the 2011, the sector sales growth shows a slowing to a 2.9% by value, and to a 0.3% by volume. Despite some retail analysts believe that those inflationary pressure conditions could start to improve by the second half of 2012, many sources (Verdict, 2012a and Hilary Monk, 2011) have registered in their clothing retailing reports that for the third consecutive year the percentage of consumers shopping for clothing is dropping. 1.2 THE STRATEGY: THE MOST STABLE IS MOVEMENT Furthermore, as noted generally by market forecasting experts, very few reliable indicators suggest the current situation is likely to change anytime soon. This may be the main reason for which many companies in the fashion retail market are hurrying to make operational investments to maintain their current levels of profitability. With the arousing of new market trends, companies and consumers, a brand should reinvent itself to at least maintain its market segment and to preserve its brand equity. Similarly, Petburikul (2009:155), defend those strategic investments in rethinking business directions, to the companies aiming to keep up with fierce competition, to at least, have a chance in the fight for the narrowed market share. A lot has been written about the consequences or effects of the evolution and changes on the market and consumer preferences, and thus, some recommendations have been done to affront the panorama. It has been commonly found that in order to maintain the “momentum” in the context of these seasonal and highly volatile markets, the retailers have to keep up the pace of this fast development and creativity in order to survive, otherwise, those retailers that are left behind, become extinct (Gilani, 2006:1). Supporting this, in other words: “Companies will occasionally discover that they may have to re-position the brand because customers change preferences and new
  • 16. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 4 competitors enter the market” (Petburikul, 2009:156). Additionally and referring to the brand diffusion, researchers have stated that brands will always need to take opportunities to change a brand in order to sustain the accuracy of brand equity (de Chernatony and Cottam, 2006; Keller, 2000) or that in order to face the erosion of the position of a firm in the market, especially when it is due to an out-dated image or reputation problem, is recommended to undertake repositioning actions (Kapferer, 2008: 262, 263). In order to revive a brand that is becoming obsolete in such a saturated market, Rebranding is commonly perceived as a necessary strategy that can escalate a new business image to build confidence to the consumers, to struggle market share. Furthermore, according to (Verdict, 2012a) for building confidence to the consumers, retailers need to investigate who their shoppers are, understand them and mending offers to sustain existing shoppers to attract new ones. Thus, recapitulating, to face the narrowing and difficult market context and the consumer’s new preferences and attitudes towards fashion and shopping, it is commonly supported that retailers will need to look closely at who their shoppers are. 1.3 THE SUBJECTS OF THE OPPORTUNITY: THE NEW WAVE OF CONSUMERS In the context of the current recession, the large numbers and potential marketing influence of the new generation of consumers, has been largely ignored. The lack of employment frustrates the career development of the youngest sectors, their expenditure has been reduced and many of them are delaying to move out and establishing their own households to build their families. Sources such as Verdict & SAAS (2012:7) show that despite of the significant growth in the young fashion sector over the last five years, the rising cost of going to university and the difficulties of getting a job post graduation will inhibit sales growth in the segment. It is believed that
  • 17. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 5 these facts will make the young fashion sector more challenging, even for the largest operators, as this group of consumers is nowadays hit financially. On the other hand, they are believed to be a generation with a very high buying power (Bakewell et al., 2006:170), as they have annual incomes totalling USD211 billion and spend USD39 billion per year (in the USA) (Nowak et al., 2006:316). More actualized sources, in the current economic context, also describe this group as high spenders with an annual average of 2000£ in the UK (Paul Edwards, 2009), brand conscious and loyal. Moreover, at the beginning of 2012, according to Marilynn Hood (2012), this group is the most important marketing concern to come along in decades, and by 2017 their spending is expected to surpass that of the boomers. It is therefore logically, that currently, the most struggled target group to comprehend may be the commonly known as Generation Y, for being identified as the future consumers of most brands (Goldgehn, 2004; O’Donnell & Yarrow, 2009; Wheeler, 2009; Bergh & Behrer, 2011). Despite the discrepancies, they are generally defined as the last generation born before the 21th century. It is told that is the group of consumers that will determine how consumer markets evolve in the next three decades (Bergh & Behrer, 2011). In addition, Nowak et al., (2006:316) reveals that the Gen Yers population is much larger than the previous Generation X (over 12.5 million persons), currently representing more than 20% of total population in UK (US Census Bureau International Database), what makes even more relevant their unprecedented consumer characteristics. In fact, brands are nowadays, aiming to make some changes within their brand assets to target Generation Y because most of this new wave of consumers are currently developing and establishing their brand preferences, as most of them age between 15 and 25 (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002:393-408). Not only are believed to have unprecedented purchasing power but they are also thought to be vital to the continuing
  • 18. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 6 health of fashion marketing as they love shopping especially for clothing (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002), spending two thirds of their budgets on clothing (Bakewell et al., 2006:170). It is therefore, coherent that fashion brands aim to revitalise their image in accordance to their preferences. 1.4 THE CHALLENGING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GROUP Nevertheless, the pressure is high for marketers when trying to deal with a challenging group of consumers to engage, as they are considered the most marketing-savvy generation (Bergh & Behrer, 2011) of teens and 20-year-olds ever. Due to this high level of education and knowledge of marketing, traditional structured forms of communication do not work well with this generation (Goldgehn, 2004:24), as they are more aware and familiar with brand strategies due to their extensive contact with the media and their varied skills. In addition, is a real need to be aware of their preferences, in order to predict their behaviour, as this group of consumers have also a high power of influence to the spending habits of their parents (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002: 393). In Gen Buy, (O’ Donnell & Yarrow, 2009:13) a case that supports the theory that Gen Y males effect change, through their natural ease at forming teams and with their ability to connect online, they are empowered and consequently more confident about themselves and the value of their opinions. This means that with their influencing power, any false move from the brand, could easily lead to its failure.
  • 19. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 7 1.5 THE IMPORTANCE OF MEASURING THE RETURNS Despite the challenge of engaging that group, it has been noted (Stuart and Muzeller, 2004:472-481) that different branding strategies, have positive effects on generation Y and have been identified as one of the solutions to respond the challenge of new market conditions. Despite repositioning and rebranding strategies are widely practised by firms to modify the brand, they continue to be considered one of the most risky in brand management (Kapferer, 2004:415). Moreover, rebrandings are costly, time consuming and the percentage of failed cases when rebranding is higher compared to the successful cases (Causon, 2004; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004). Since a rebranding strategy can cost millions of pounds, and it can even lead to the failure of a company due to the unpredictable reaction of consumers, it is therefore necessary to plan and measure the impact of the new branding strategy. It is crucial to predict accurately the effects that such changes may produce on the consumers and their reaction or behaviour. Kapferer states: “No matter how much it stresses added value, value creation and return on capital investments, marketing cannot continue to evade the efficiency issue (2008:60). And consequently, recommends: “Whether it involves changing the logo, brand icon, packaging, or launching a brand extension or a promotion no marketing strategies should be applied without first, specifying the expected financial return on investment, otherwise it is not justified to allocate a particular amount to one particular investment rather than to another” (Kapferer, 2008:50). The reactions of the consumers have to be predicted in order to think the provable returns of the strategy for the brand, whether talking in terms of tangible or intangible:
  • 20. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 8 revenues, sales, perception of the brand and others. Measuring these implications and effectiveness for the strategies once implemented, is then, the current problem for marketers. A lot of difficulties can be found when measuring the return on investment of a branding initiative because of the difficulties of isolating it from other influences such as consumer or market trends, product design and other environmental factors. For the purpose of this dissertation, the Ben Sherman brand provides an exceptional landscape to study the effects and implications of a revitalising oriented to the generation Y consumers. Along with other brands, it has recently undergone changes over all the variables of the marketing mix to reposition itself and meet consumer expectations. With such revitalisation, it has recently evolved into a British modernist lifestyle apparel brand targeted at stylish men aged 25 to 40 in multiple markets throughout the world (Ben Sherman web page). The brand’s primary future target market is the so-called Generation Y. The dissertation is aiming to target the same consumer group that this paper has as an object of study, and its Head office is located in London, which makes it more practical to contact the required departments.
  • 21. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 9 1.6 RESEARCH AIM AND OBJECTIVES The aim of this research is to explore how a rebranding strategy of a fashion brand impacts on a specific target group and its overall Return on Investment in terms of intangible and tangible incomes for the brand, using Ben Sherman to reflect the findings. AIM$ Fashion$Brand$ Target$Group$ (UK$Genera9on$Y)$ Impact$on$Consumer$ Behaviour$ Consumer$Percep9on$of$ the$Brand$ Tangible$and$ Intangible$Incomes$ Marke9ng$Mix$Variables$ Brand$Image$and$Iden9ty$ Ben$Sherman$ F I N D I N G S $ Figure 1. Aim and Objectives
  • 22. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 10 The objectives of this research are drawn around the Fashion Rebranding strategies on which three main fields of study can be distinguished. Those would include first: the Rebranding strategies and the implications over the marketing mix; secondly, the Generation Y: its definition, their perception of the brands, behaviour and performance; and thirdly the return on investment in Rebranding strategies together with the measurement of tangible and intangible incomes for the brand. Therefore, to achieve the aim of the research it will be necessary to triangulate the isolated fields described above from the data gathered from the literature review with the consumer and industry point of view, relating it to the specific case of Ben Sherman through the following procedure: 1. Explore the characteristics of the Generation Y and its consumer behaviour. Connect the preferences or behaviours of Generation Y with the Branding strategies. 2. Explore the Rebranding implications over the marketing mix in the fashion industry. Contrasting the theory of the strategies with the practical cases and experts from the field. 3. Explore the discussions about the measurement of the Return on Investment of Rebranding. 4. Analyse the success of Ben Sherman’s ROI, in terms of tangible and intangible values for the rebranding strategy in relation to Generation Y perspective and make recommendations for rebranding in the fashion industry for this sector.
  • 23. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 11 1.7 STRUCTURE OF THE DISSERTATION Part one of this thesis contextualises and exposes the objectives of the research. Part two justifies the methodology and reason for the design and investigation development of the paper. Subsequently, the literature review discusses basic issues of rebranding implications over the marketing mix by different authors. Further, describing Generation Y’s (the new wave of consumers) perception of brands, their behavior and performance. Moreover, the return on investment of those strategies to this concrete target market is examined and revised through different authors to understand the most reliable ways to measure it, reaching the understanding of intangible and tangible incomes that are represented for the brand. The next step shows the findings of the data gathered from Generation Y consumers and an interview to the brands Communications Manager. Afterwards, the findings from the empirical section are discussed and analysed in reference to the theoretical framework by linking the findings to the literature review. Finally, conclusion and recommendations chapter is written with an action research approach when in order to analyse the success or Return on investment of the concrete case of Ben Sherman. 1.8 CHAPTER SUMMARY This chapter is an introduction to the study: The Impact of Rebranding on the UK’s Generation -Y- Consumers. Calculating the ROI of the Ben Sherman Rebranding strategy and its effects on the behaviour of the target market. The chapter provided a brief overview of the research problem and the methods used to conduct the research. Chapter two is the discussion of related literature review of Rebranding strategies to Male Generation Y consumers and the return on investment.
  • 24. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 12 2 LITERATURE REVIEW The literature review intends to present a theoretical framework about the three main subjects of the research, and is divided equally into three sections. The first part will present the reasons for rebranding, clarifying the concept and describing the process and strategies from academics and practitioners. The second part aims to present the generation Y of consumers focusing on male consumer values and behaviour relating to rebranding strategies. The final section will define and revise what has been written about the return on investment, explaining the different methods suggested and how they should be measured.
  • 25. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 13 2.1 REBRANDING STRATEGIES 2.1.1 DEFINITION OF REBRANDING The description and classification of terms that refer to brand changes have always been confusing and misleading (Muzellec, et al., 2003). While many descriptors have been used to explain the rethinking a brand’s identity, “rebranding” has been specifically coined to describe the actions covering wider areas of the brand (Chai-lee Goi, 2011). Rosenthal (2003) also supported the differences between rebranding and repositioning, stressing that brand identity is not changed in repositioning. Indeed, Muzellec et al. (2003), Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) and Rosenthal (2003) agree that repositioning should be understood as a step or necessary part of a rebrand. Similarly, Muzellec et al. defines rebranding as the action of “building a new a name that represents a differentiated position in the mindset of stakeholders and a distinctive identity from competitors” (2003: 32). Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) explain that rebranding may include changes in marketing performance, aesthetics and repositioning actions. Supporting this idea, Andrews and Kim (2007) assert that rebranding intends to change both the existing perceptions among customers and the company position in the market by creating a “new air” around the established brand, in order to show a more competitive position and image to the internal and external environment (Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006; de Chernatony and Riley, 1998). Daly and Maloney (2004) suggest the existence of two supplementary parts in a brand, the tangibles, which relate to facts and the intangibles, which relate to values, image, emotions or feelings. Tangibles and Intangible components of the brand highlight that a rebranding may consist of modifying some, or all of these elements. Thus, different names or descriptors are proposed, depending on the grade of change a brand requires (from minor to major changes):
  • 26. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 14 - Restyling, based on changing image and brand aesthetics; - Repositioning, the position that the brand aims to occupy in the market, shareholders, against competitors and in the consumer’s mind is rethought; - Rebranding, attributed to the widest changes, in both image and position. Despite the confusion among academics, journalists and practitioners about what exactly is referred to in a rebranding action, Stuart and Muzellec (2004) seem to give a more clarified explanation, through classifying the changes into two methods: Brand Evolution (changes in slogan and logo) and Brand Revolution (changes in slogan, logo and name), which despite the lack of precision, the results are less problematic and more illustrative. However, in practice, the real life examples do not follow any description to reinvent their brands and encounter numerous problems when defining the actions undergone by them. Although these issues should be urgently clarified, it could be solved temporally, for rebranding cases, by specifying exactly which aspects of the brand have undergone the changes: “a new name and logo, a new name, a new logo and slogan, a new logo only, and a new slogan only” (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004:474).
  • 27. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 15 2.1.2 ISSUES IN REBRANDING: “Innovation is the lifeblood of a brand” (Kapferer, 2001: 68) As different brands have different products, structures, objectives and situations, they require different formulas for Rebranding (Kitchen, 2010; Kapferer, 2001). In other words, Grant states that due to the rapidly changing business environment of fashion apparel and its consumers, a brand depends on the success of its last three or four ideas. (2006:270). Accordingly, academic researchers and practitioners in branding mention the appropriateness of repositioning or revitalising actions within a brand In order to keep the brand up to date (Muzellec et al., 2003; Kapferer 2001). Similarly, Muzellec et al. (2003) identify different drivers of a Rebranding: changes in ownership structure, a change in corporate strategy, a change in competitive position (erosion of market position, outdated image, reputation problems), and a change in the external environment. (p.34). Parallel to this, Stuart and Muzellec (2004) stresses that the objective of a Rebranding is to communicate to stakeholders that something about the organisation has changed. Moreover, it is crucial that a organisation really does have something new to say and that it is communicated effectively at the time of the change. (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004:473). Accordingly, Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) and Muzellec et al. (2003:33) identify two main goals of rebranding: creating a new image and/or reflecting a new identity which internally affects employees and the culture, as well as externally affecting all the stakeholders and the images they have of the company.
  • 28. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 16 2.1.3 COMMON PRACTICES WHEN REBRANDING: REDESIGN, REPOSITION AND COMMUNICATION Although there is no uniform branding strategy suitable to all brands and cases, different key elements or practices have been identified by academics and practitioners (Aaker,1991; Keller, 2002; LaForet & Saunders 1994). An early step, which has been commonly identified when working on revitalising a brand, is to establish the drivers of the lack of consumption (Wheeler, 2009; Kapferer, 2001:115). For instance, for a brand that is being perceived as outdated or that has reached bad connotations (Kapferer, 2001:62), it may be needed to identify the reasons for which the brand initially succeeded, in order to recall the original equation. As Kapferer states, it is not “copying the past new Mini, new Beetle” (2001:171), it is rediscovering the essential components of the brands, the points of reference (Torella 2007:21). After the diagnostic, it is also required to plan which segment the brand is aiming to compete in, in order to revise the marketing mix variables in accordance to the aimed target. (Torella, 2007:50.) This step, on which the brand may change its strategy completely or slightly, is essential due to the prevalence of mature markets, the greater diversity in customer needs, and the ability to reach specialised or niche segments (Baines, et al., 2005). Additionally, Kapferer suggests the division between “the already won” segment (of which brands commonly do not want to get rid of), and the “ still to win” segment (2001:119). Torella (2007) notes that companies tend to forget the need to return to the beginning (2007:33). According to Kapferer (2001:34), this need for reconstructing the lifecycle of the brand is due to the arousing of new target groups
  • 29. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 17 which do not know which are the characteristics or the differentiator element of the product. Similarly, when planning the new positioning, it is recommended to think of one by which the brand can be leader or to establish a new category without limiting a future growth, allowing the longevity of the established changes. (Torella, 2007:60,61). Nevertheless, any effort on rebranding is useless when not giving consumers reasons for which the brand is suited to the new situation in question (Kapferer, 2001:119). It has to be clear, not only the reasons for the change, but also, to identify the new differentiator or added value that is offered (Torella, 2007:77-83). Branding means associating a mark with an offer of value. Additionally, Kapferer (2001:37) cites: “A strong brand should be unique, superior and special”. Agreeing to this statement, in Zyman, (1999) it is deduced that a brand aiming to be competitive should know which are the elements that add value to itself, in other words, the core elements whose absence disqualifies the brand; indeed, the ones necessary to identify the brand (Kapferer; 2001: 35, 41). Moreover, having a cohesive brand identity increases the strength of the bond between customer and brand, affecting behaviours that enhance brand profitability, customer lifetime value, and leverage (MacInnis and Park 2005). Consequently, brand managers may focus exclusively on the intangible aspect, which tends to make the brand less replaceable (Kapferer 2001: 34, 37). However, customers often associate the brand identity with very concrete, tangible attributes. As stated by Kapferer, when consumers describe brands they tend to move from the concrete to the abstract (2001:32). According to these assumptions, a strong brand identity does not excuse any weaknesses on the tangible part (ie. the product itself).
  • 30. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 18 2.1.4 EXECUTION Due to the fact of the existence of wider and more different sorts of consumers, one of the most valued things when creating a new identity is the convergence of styles and not just its mere repetition (Wheeler, 2009). However, variety shouldn’t lead to incoherence but a generation common background theme (Kapferer, 2001:71), which in Sicard (1998) is referred to as brand system. Furthermore, Kapferer (2001:169) states that even if it’s necessary to re-shape products and ideas, repositioning the brand in the market and consumer’s mind, it is impossible to become a reference without maintaining a set of constant values over the time, as it may risk creating a free associating mess of unconnected ideas (Grant, 2006:89). Accordingly, it would be necessary to establish which aspects of the brand are inflexible and which others can be changed. In other words, it should be identified what forms the essence of the brand, and what is ephemeral in order to plan a long-lasting and coherent strategy. (Kapferer, 2001:171). Due to this essence, some fashion brands have managed to become emblems of membership especially among youth (Grant, 2006:164). Certainly, youth clans that share lifestyles or/and music tastes frequently share clothing styles and values (Grant, 2006:174). For instance, Nike has become the emblem of a motivation among youngsters. Similarly, brands such as Ben Sherman or Dr Martin’s managed to convert tight tiny-collar shirts and tall work boots into emblems of a youth culture. However, even the most powerful brands risk their position. It is important to construct a strong brand that drives to acquire brand leverage, what represents a combination of brand satisfaction, recommendation and closeness to ideal (Kapferer, 2001:37-38). Consequently, to have brand leverage it must be guaranteed first that the brand is
  • 31. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 19 sustainable throughout time and that it would “remain hot” year after year (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). Bergh and Behrer (2011) also identified the five elements that contribute to brand leverage among youth. Those are: cool, real, unique, self-identification with the brand and positive emotions engendered by thought of a brand. Those five elements work as independent variables in two regression models, one explaining brand conversations and another one explaining brand image. Seeing a brand with those attributes is associated with greater brand leverage, and having a stronger brand (See CRUSH Branding Model definition in the glossary). Figure 2. The CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:220).
  • 32. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 20 2.2 THE NEW WAVE OF CONSUMERS: THE MALE GENERATION Y CONSUMPTION 2.2.1 DEFINITION: Despite of the discord about the concrete age of this group, most academics and practitioners define the so-called “Millennials” as the ones born over the last 20 years before the twenty-first century (Yarrow, O’Donnell, 2009:XI; Berg & Behrer, 2011; Pellegrin, 2009, Taylor and Cosenza, 2002; Goldgehn, 2004). However, this little disagreement concerning the age, does not have a great impact when targeting due to the delay” in growing up. It is found that people over thirty years old, nowadays, tend to behave, dress and imitate younger people and their habits, behaving like “old-teens” delay” in growing up. It is found that people over thirty years old, nowadays, tend to behave, dress and imitate younger people and their habits, behaving like “old-teens” (Berg & Behrer, 2011; Pellegrin, 2009). It has been noted that there is a grade of difficulty to find gender specific literature about the subject, which may be due to that differences between genders, leading to a more homogenised shopping behaviour and performance. For instance, even if a millennial male still shops less frequently, spending less time and money than the female, he is still getting more interested in the field than previous generations. In addition, data from surveys demonstrate that for both genders (71% male, 94% female) clothes are their favourite thing to buy when shopping (45%), moreover, the 56% of Yers associated the action of shopping with a “mental vacation” (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:53). Also, men are outpacing women in increased apparel spending. In 2008, women’s apparel sales fell 6%, while men’s apparel grew 1%. Their interest in fashion is increasing even amongst the oldest sections (Pellegrin, 2009), as they are
  • 33. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 21 becoming more confident of their masculinity (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:135). Indeed, many notorious retailers such as Saks and Bloomingsdale’s, consider men’s apparel to be the area of greatest potential growth (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). 2.2.2 THEIR RELATION WITH THE BRANDS AND BRANDING: There has been an increase in the interest for the Gen Y’ers due to its interesting shopping performance and its repercussion, what may be due to the big size of the group, as it will soon outnumber the previous baby boomer generation (Berg & Behrer, 2011:6). Moreover, compared to their parents at the same age, and despite the recession, they spend five times more and they are the least likely group to cut back their spending after the onset of 2008 (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:66). Although, they are better trained consumers, taking into account multiple variables such as style, length of usage, impact and functionality before making a purchase decision, and their confidence in self expression, along with the quick decision-making and the desire to have it all now has a notable impact on their purchasing behaviour and spending (Yarrow, O’Donnell, 2009:22,44). This makes them spend premium amounts when they think an item is worth it (Goldgehn, 2004). The challenge resides then in how to engage them, as according to Berg & Behrer (2011:5), this generation grow up in an environment full of brands and commercial media, which makes it difficult to capture or at least to maintain their attention or/and interest. Researchers and practitioners (Williams et al., 2010; Ferguson, 2011) claim that youngsters are aware of marketing tactics, and therefore more sceptical about brand performance, believing that advertising and branding have no effect on them (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:26-27; Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). Despite the belief that
  • 34. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 22 they are more immune to branding, a study from 2007 estimates that they still have 145 conversations a week about brands, which doubles the rate amongst adults (Hein, 2007). Yarrow and O’Donnell (2011) and Bergh et. al. (2011), agree in associating their little interest in advertising with their willingness to have a more genuine, transparent and honest interaction with the brands. Equally, the high level of attention and care they had in their growing environment is reflected on their need of a professional opinion and need of attention from friendly sales people (Yarrow & O’Donnell, 2009:45; Taylor and Cosenza, 2002). Moreover youngsters want to be asked for their opinion, and like to have the ability to influence the product (Goldgehn, 2004; Yarrow & O’ Donnell, 2009). This demanding characteristic of the group can be rewarding. According to the study conducted in Ferguson (2011) to the UK Millenials, brand loyalty is more volatile amongst youngsters than older consumers. However, it is also found in that study that they are more likely to feel easily more loyal and more willing to spread good news about those brands that offer value or/and reward programs. Despite the disagreements related to their loyalty, some academics and practitioners (Goldgehen, 2004, Bergh and Behrer, 2011, Yarrow and O ‘Donnell, 2009) support the idea that they should be targeted as soon as possible. First, because teenage brains are still very flexible in this period, therefore, it is an important moment for brands and products to communicate to this target group, (Berg & Behrer, 2011:16); secondly, if they are consuming a certain brand in their young years, the brain will be programmed for similar behaviour when they are adults. (Ferguson 2011, Goldgehen, 2004). Additionally it is difficult to get them deviated from a brand once they find “their brand” (Goldgehen, 2004). Moreover, brands should not risk misunderstanding their lifestyles, and make themselves positively relevant by supporting their needs and enhancing their values, as they are very influential and trustworthy between them when it comes to learning about clothing brands (Berg & Behrer, 2011:26-27; Yarrow O ’ Donnell, 2009:25). Research from India reveals that men have a higher risk taking propensity
  • 35. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 23 when it comes to new brand experiences, and are maybe more likely to try new products and to brand switch as a consequence (Ogden-Barnes, 2011). Certainly, Yarrow O ‘Donnell, (2009) stresses the importance of the ability that Gen Y’ers have to connect with others and their knowledge about technology, as any mistake from the brand can spread in very short space of time damaging it broadly (Yarrow O ‘Donnell, 2009). However, Ogden-Barnes (2011) assert that mature male consumers are less likely to talk to peers about their recent purchases than younger males, which may limit the effectiveness of word of mouth marketing for new products aimed at older male demographics. 2.2.3 WHAT DOES CREATE VALUE FOR THEM? Neuroscientists have detected that some strategies work better to connect with teenagers, but this requires a true knowledge of the underlying youth drivers and needs (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). Furthermore, Karmarkar (2012) stresses in the interview for Harvard Business School Magazine, that people aren't very good at accessing where that value comes from, or how and when it is influenced by factors like store displays or brands, thereby, we may serve from neuroscience to understand the decision process. Researches and surveys of the European Millennials are helping branding practitioners and academics that struggle to understand this powerful group. One of the most revealing studies is “Youthopia”: a study conducted by MTV Networks International in 2009 with seven thousand Gen y participants (aged 16-34) that helped to create a snapshot of contemporary youth values, hopes and dreams of young people in Europe. Bergh and Behrer (2011) and Bergh et al. (2011) suggest that reinventing a brand with regard to those values, will uplift satisfaction, peer-to-peer promotion, and purchase preference. Those values have an impact on brand image as well as on brand
  • 36. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 24 conversations, which leads to a substantial brand leverage for the company (Goldgehn,2004). The other research, from Insite Consulting served from “Youthopia” is full of case studies and interviews, aimed to develop a brand model addressed to the Gen Y’ers. This study used both qualitative and quantitative research from consumer approach and data provided from fashion brands about strategies and consumer preferences amongst other categories. Bergh and Behrer (2011) use the data from those and other researches to design the CRUSH Branding Model that summarises the key aspects for developing branding strategies to engage and retain European Generation Y consumers. Figure 3, illustrates how those brands reach the status of being innovative, authentic, emphatic, and emotive, generating word of mouth popularity and a more positive image amongst youngsters, which leads to a strong and long-lasting brand. . Figure 3. The CRUSH Components from CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:48).
  • 37. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 25 2.2.4 WOWING THE NEW GENERATION: BRANDING STRATEGIES TO GEN Y MALE This section is divided into five subsections. Each subsection corresponds to the five successful factors of youth brands identified by Bergh and Behrer (2011). BE COOL, INNOVATIVE, POPULAR, ORIGINAL Culturally assumed, fashion brands have, generally, the innate status of being original and appealing. However, although fashion apparel is generally assumed to be innovative and appealing itself, Bergh and Behrer (2011) state that even in the fashion industry, brands should keep innovating to appear more appealing to the trendsetter public. This public has the important characteristic to dictate trends and work as communicators to the rest of the consumers. And thus it is important for the fashion brands to connect and engage with them (Bergh & Behrer, 2011:74). Additionally, data from “Youthopia” studies demonstrate that they are extremely curious and favour what is real. Thus, those brands that appear to be linked with “cheap and impatient”, less original or innovative, are also perceived as less cool. On the other hand, those brands that enhance art and design, for instance, through showcasing craftsmanship, favour the communication of uniqueness and originality (Bergh et al, 2011). In Ferguson (2011) it is shown that those brands that communicate success, prestige and achievement were stated to be more likely to maintain relevant to Gen Y’ ers, as they look to stand out of the crowd. Similarly, a new image for a brand should be consistent, and constantly exciting and innovative, and confirming brand vision (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:61), thus
  • 38. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 26 strengthening the competitive advantage. Other authors suggest considering the option to take some risks when rethinking the brand as a strategy to fight Male Y boredom, which according to Goldgehn (2004), has been identified as one of the feelings that youngsters try to avoid the most. Additionally, some researchers (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002; Goldgehn, 2004), suggest launching product varieties or limited editions to engage them through the ephemerality and innovativeness. This is actually not that risky, as for instance, when adding new products or extending lines, males would avoid the product if it does not fit their taste. However, it is also advised that brands should not forget that even when trying to stay cool and relevant it is important to maintain coherence within brand personality and identity; otherwise it would be interpreted as a fake buying of coolness (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:87). BE REALLY AUTHENTIC, BUT DON’T SHOUT IT, WHISPER IT. As commented before, male Y’ers refuse imitations and staged experiences, (Bergh and Behrer, 2011) therefore, realness and authenticity acts as a differentiator. However, the academics differ in the meaning of authenticity. While the classic interpretation of authenticity proposed by Gilmore and Pine (2007) relates the term to origin, history and heritage, this seems to be less appealing and relevant to the young consumers, than the modern interpretation of authenticity. A more current definition of authenticity is more related to being honest and transparent (being clear about the DNA of the brand), and is found to be more appealing to the Youngsters (Beverland in Bergh and Behrer, 2011:104). According to Bergh and Ruyck, (2011) a brand portrays authenticity when it’s linked to its origins, to a place or to a heritage. A less specific approach that includes both definitions above is found in Bergh and Behrer, where authentic brands are defined as real and genuine: “a sincere collections of stories that provide emotional connections” (2011:103).
  • 39. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 27 Since the perception of authenticity is highly subjective and socially constructed (Goldgehn, L. 2004), Gilmore and Pine (2007) state that the induction of authenticity is a driver of buying intention, and according to by Bergh and Behrer, (2011) is a predictor of perception of originality and an enhancer of brand’s likeability. Although Gen Y’ers seem to have respect for brands with a heritage, it is difficult trying to dissuade them that some myths are untrue. Hence, as heritage should be genuinely exposed and acknowledging that brand authenticity is linked to leading edge consumers or celebrities such as musicians, the authenticity experience could be increased by sponsoring certain events or people (Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 115). Despite this, brands need to evolve and innovate, so that the roots and original spirit of the founder may be reflected. It has been found that brands may have to look closer to their heritage to find new opportunities, reinforcing the DNA of the brand (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:105-107, Gilmore and Pine, 2007). Indeed brands may have to reinvent themselves continuously without omitting their brand identity. However, brands should not create barriers or incompatibilities to attract consumers. Supporting that idea, VP of marketing Doug Palladini referring to VANS shoe brand commented that strong brands should be able to appeal to different personalities and gender (Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 106). UNIQUE BUT GROUP BELONGING Uniqueness is also linked with authenticity. Berg and Behrer (2011:135-145), recommend brands to claim for its DNA in all those elements of stimuli that lead to uniqueness such as packaging, brand logo, events, and advertisements which will support a consistent positioning (Wheeler, 2009). Although Individualism is a key issue for teenagers, it does not imply isolation (Grant, 2006:246, Yarrow and O’ Donnell, 2009:50,111), actually, male Y’ers organise in youth
  • 40. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 28 subcultures showcasing uniformity in clothing, attitude, and music. Supporting this, Ogden-Barnes (2011) explains that male Y’ers seek recognition, thereby when choosing a brand, the same applies; they are expecting the validation from their environment. Yarrow and O’Donell (2009) certainly support it by explaining that shopping has turned for many as a hobby, something special that makes them feel unique. Unlike previous generations, being loyal to a concrete brand is not that important. The protagonist is the person, and its style (communication and connection), not the item that is being worn. Indeed, some defend that the magic is in the mix (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:111). Thereby, brands should not close barriers to different targets as nowadays, different kinds of subcultures may share brands. Brands, which are not open, risk losing potential consumers. Bergh et al. (2011), recommend that brands to stimulate the personalisation or customisation for being drivers of uniqueness. SELF-IDENTIFICATION WITH THE BRAND AND DIVERSITY Brands and products provide a tangible way to communicate and/or reflect values, interests and opinions (Tuten, 2007). Therefore, brands aiming to target them should mirror their values and identity, resulting in being more appealing and valuable for youngsters (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:39; Kapferer, 2001:136). This provides a strong engagement and a direct effect on brand leverage (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). In Bergh et al, (2011) it has been identified three levels of aspired identification or connection with the brands amongst consumers: “who I am” - for instance with Billabong; “I wanna become, or experiment”: Nike; or “I wanna make the world a better place”: Desigual, Muji. According to what stated previously, it may be important to create different lines or brands to engage a wider range of youngsters (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:159-180; Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). Moreover, Bergh and Behrer (2011) state that as brands aren’t dictating styles anymore, they should offer more assortment and allow young
  • 41. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 29 people to interact with the brand elements they like. Supporting this idea, in Ogden- Barnes (2011) it is shown that male youngsters are less affected by the self-affinity feeling with the brand, what may permit the brand to appeal to a larger or less specific public through creating new lines and products to cover the diversity of styles. For instance, former global brand director of H&M, Jörgen Anderson (when participating in the research for Insite Consulting) links the brand success to the brand’s diversity of styles. Additionally, N. Rollins states in Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009:120) that young people can’t even predictably be divided into clear groups, because they don’t create identity by associating with a certain category, like jock or nerd. In other words, they are very flexible with their identity construction. This happens also between age groups: For instance, AXE deodorant, which is targeted to men aged between eighteen and twenty four, was enormously success with middle-school boys. Therefore, men taking note stop using the product for being a kids’ product, and consequently, kids refused it as well (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:123). Kapferer states that the brand value can only be accumulated by creating a more intense link between the brand and each of its consumers (2001:113), and requires staying aware of what consumers want. In how cool brands stay hot (Berg and Behrer, 2011) is shown the case of Jack & Jones. The designers of the brand are still part of the target group of the brand, and get inspired watching their peers. This relationship between consumer and brand permits an absolute fulfilment of the needs and values of the target market at any time. However, in Bergh and Behrer (2011:159-180) is recommended not to promote the same values but to prove (otherwise the brand would not be authentic) them by valuable products, musical and cultural events, as they have been identified as determinants of engaging in subcultures.
  • 42. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 30 EMOTIONAL HAPPINESS: A common characteristic to the “Gen Y’ers” is the need for escapism or hedonism, which leads into the research of happiness or positive emotions. (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:123). According to Bergh and Behrer (2011) and Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009), emotions are pivotal drivers of our buying behavior. Indeed, they are believed to have a direct impact on consumer decision-making. Thus, emotions grab consumer attention, create a buzz and stimulate word-of-mouth, leading to brand engagement (Bergh et al, 2009; Bergh and Behrer, 2011:184,185,189). For male youngsters, the concrete emotion of surviving risks or being engaged in new situations leads to pleasure (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:19). Thereby, as suggested by Bergh and Behrer, (2011:212) the key to emotional branding may be to create events or experiences, delivering pleasure and gratification. Therefore brands may incorporate emotions when communicating such as happiness, to help Gen Y’ers to forget about their stress and minimise their negative emotions making it more appealing (Yarow and O’Donnell, 2001:123, Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 189, 201).On the other hand, it is found that they develop mental connections or associations, out of the store, between brands and their own lives (Herbert Krugman in Kapferer 2001:137). Therefore, when wearing brands that have positive feedback from the environment, they are more willing to find an emotional connection with them (Bergh and Behrer, 20011:17). Gen Y’ers consume and process the information differently: Yarrow and O’Donnell state that they have a speedy style, fleeting and flitting attention, and their tolerance for boredom is understandably low (2009:96). Thus, this need for stimulation and instant gratification is also translated in consumer behaviour (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:21). Additionally, in “Why we buy” (2008), Underhill, noted that men, when faced with multiple options would simply leave the stores (Yarrow and O’Donnell 2009:132). Accordingly, in order to capture male Gen Y’ers, it is suggested to stay simple, to supply them with some boredom-fighting merchandise and provide them few options to
  • 43. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 31 choose from (Yarrow and O'Donnell, 2009:131). On the other hand, the store environment is also important. Customers want to feel comfortable, and secure in the shops, they have to be cool, with the right smell, music and great atmosphere (Yarrow and O'Donnell, 2009:50-51). For instance, in Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009) is stated that Urban Outfitters is particularly appealing to men. The store mixes clothes, toys, racy books and other playful merchandise in a sporadic, ever changing display that feels like an adventure to shoppers (Yarrow and O’Donnell 2009:179). 2.3 RETURN ON INVESTMENT OF REBRANDING STRATEGIES 2.3.1 THE DIFFICULTIES OF MEASURING THE SUCCESS OF REBRANDING AND ITS IMPACT ON BRAND EQUITY Although there appears to be more failures than successes in rebranding actions (Causon, 2004; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004), it still constitutes one of the most practiced strategies amongst firms to modify the brand (Kapferer, 2004). Accordingly Stuart and Muzellec (2004) stated that whether it involves changing the logo, the brand icon or the packaging, or launching a brand extension or a promotion, it is generally costly, time-consuming and risky, and thus, as stated by Kapferer (2001:59-60) none of these recommendations should be made without specifying the expected financial return on the investment. As stated above, measuring the success of a rebrand is difficult. The motives for taking actions differ and therefore the objectives do as well (Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006). Despite the discrepancies in the rebranding definition, most practitioners and academics agree on its main aim: to enhance the Brand Equity (Aaker, 1991; Causon, 2004; Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006; Petburikul, 2009) and generate added sales
  • 44. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 32 (Aaker, 1991). Moreover, researchers do recommend making changes in brand assets in order to maintain brand equity (Keller, 2000; Chernatony and Cottam, 2006). Empirical findings from the study of Goi (2012) and in accordance with most academics (also justified in Goi, 2012:9) show how rebranding impacts on brand equity. In this study, three of the most significant techniques or practices of rebranding are specified (which accord with the description of strategies mentioned in the first section 2.1 Rebranding strategies): redesigning, repositioning, and recomunicating. 2.3.2 MEASURING BRAND EQUITY: Aaker (1996:7) defines brand equity as: “set of brand assets linked to a brand, its name and symbol, that adds or subtract from the value provided by a product or service to a firm or to the firm’s costumers”. In Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995) is found two techniques to measure brand equity, which tend be either financial or consumer- related: In one hand, according to the Financial-Based perspective, different methods can be used to measure brand equity. For instance, Mahajan et al. (1991) used the potential value of brands to an acquiring firm as an indicator of brand equity. On the other hand, Simon and Sullivan (1993) based on the funds needed to establish a new brand in relation with the probability of success. However, according to Cobb-Walgreen et al. (1995), this method is only applicable when launching a new product. In Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995:26) one method to measure brand equity (that is widely used in the financial environment) is a formula that calculates the net brand related profits, and then assigns multiple based brand strengths. According to this vision of brand equity, other researchers defined brand equity as the value of a brand to the firm (Simon and Sullivan, 1993; Pappu et al, 2005).
  • 45. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 33 On the other hand, based on the Consumer Perspective, brand equity is defined as the value of a brand for the consumer (Aaker, 1991; Keller,1993; Pappu et al, 2005). According to this perspective, Aaker 1991, suggests using a brand earnings multiplier based on a weighted average of the brand on its key components: brand awareness, brand associations, perceived quality, (consumer perceptions) brand loyalty (consumer behaviour) (Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995). Accordingly, Aaker (1991) assumed that consumer perceptions lead to behavioural manifestations of brand equity, which lead to brand loyalty (Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995) and based on that consumer perception, suggested it as another method to measure brand equity. This method consists in rating and comparing branded and unbranded equivalent products. The same perceived position is adopted in Keller (1993:2), which defends that brand equity as the differential effect of brand knowledge on consumer response to the marketing of the brand. After considering the main two approaches to measure brand equity, it has been found (Pappu et al.) more appropriate the consumer-based method rather than business/accounting-based method for measuring brand equity in order to “secure a better run of the investment” (2005:154). According to Pappu et al, the consumer- based perspective corresponds to the added value of the brand to the consumer, this has been more linked by researchers to brand equity (2005:144). Thereby, after assuming that rebranding aims to impact on brand equity, (Petburikul, 2009; Aaker, 1991) and that brand equity refers to the brand’s added value for the consumer (Pappu et al, 2005:144), it is possible to estimate what is the impact to the consumer and returns for the brand of a rebranding strategy, reviewing what are the components of Brand Equity and Rebranding Mix. Thus it could be done as a comparison between the behavior and perception before and after the implementation of the rebranding strategy. In any case, Cobb-Walgren (1995) stresses the importance of accurate brand equity in order to have an effective equity management since it is more difficult to measure new added value when lacking of the initial values.
  • 46. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 34 As shown in the graphic, there is a relation between how rebranding impacts on consumer behavior and perceptions (brand equity) toward brands: Thereby, an appropriate rebranding mix (repositioning, redesigning and re-launching or re- communication) would impact positively on: brand awareness, brand associations, perceived quality (consumer perceptions) and therefore on brand loyalty (consumer performance). In other words, it would signify an intangible return for the brand with the possibility to bring future tangible returns to the brand. However, past studies found that rebranding strategies do not always have positive effects on brand equity but sometimes have negative ones. For instance, Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) indicate that since brand awareness is a key component of brand equity, redesigning a brand is likely to further damage the equity of the brand. On the other hand, it is found (Goi, 2012) that repositioning and a new method of communication can both have positive effects on brand equity. Figure 4. Impact of Rebranding Mix on Brand Equity Assets.
  • 47. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 35 According to these assumptions and despite the fact that redesigning is necessary when rebranding, the brand should be redesigned carefully, because the bigger the changes in the brand, the more likely the brand equity is to be weakened (Goi, 2012). Despite these drawbacks, it has to be taken into account that the negative impact of the redesign on brand equity that the study of Goi (2012) showcases, may be due to the recent character of the rebranding. Indeed, in Rosenthal (2003) it is noted in order to evaluate the real effects of a rebranding, needs at least ten years of time as customers may not appreciate such changes immediately and react negatively if they perceive that the core brand values have changed or disappeared after rebranding (Haig, 2003). 2.3.3 CONSUMER-BASED BRAND EQUITY AND IMPACT ON PURCHASE The customer-based brand equity and its effects on consumer behavior, leads to tangible returns that are widely discussed in marketing theory. Chen and Chang (2004:219-227) relate high levels of brand equity to higher rates of consumer preferences and purchase intention. Equally, Pappu et al. (2005:34) states that firms with high brand equity usually have good performance. TsuiYii Shih (2010:58) indicates that marketing activities have important influence on the brand equity and purchase intention. In the same study (Tsui Yii Shih, 2010) when relating marketing strategies to brand equity and purchase intention, explains that first, marketing strategies and consequently, brand equity, have significant positive effects on the purchase intention of consumers and also have positive effects on brand equity (2010:60). Supporting the other researchers, Moradi and Zarei (2011:543) also note in their study about the impact of brand equity on purchase intention that the amount of brand awareness, perceived quality, brand association and brand loyalty which effectively, indicate brand equity. Moreover, their empirical findings (most of the
  • 48. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 36 participants being youngsters) also show that brand equity influences consumers’ brand preference and purchase intention. Pappu et al. (2005) proposed associative relationships among four consumer-based brand equity dimensions (figure 5), understanding its relation and performance towards purchase behavior. Some researchers differentiate (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Pappu et al., 2005) and others associate or mix (Yoo et al, 2000) the dimensions of brand awareness and brand associations. The chart summarises Pappu et al. (2005) statements and other researchers’ papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000) regarding brand equity when performing branding actions. Brand Associations Brand LoyaltyPerceived Quality Brand Awareness Figure 5. Consumer-based brand equity relationship between dimensions created from Pappu et al. (2005) findings and other researchers papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000).
  • 49. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 37 Return on Investment is conventionally based on evaluating the impact of expenses with the revenues gained. A positive return happens when profits exceed the costs involved. However, when trying to measure the returns of an investment in rebranding, the main problem to be found is in the multiple external factors that can impact on sales, and what drives to theorise. Brand equity is being recognised by many researchers and academics as a good predictor of purchase intention (Cobb et al. 1995; Moradi and Zarei, 2011) and its measurement has been investigated by many (Cobb-Walgren et al., 1995; Moradi and Zarei, 2011; TsuiYii Shih, 2010). Interesting and more explicative findings are shown below: Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995), finds through empirical research (where the target audience surveyed were students) that those brands with higher levels of brand equity generated significantly greater preference and purchase intentions. Furthermore, the results from the research on how brand equity impacts on purchase intention and brand preference of Moradi and Zarei (2011) show also that brand equity has a great impact on those factors. In the same article (Moradi and Zarei, 2011:543) it is highlighted that other researchers such as Chang and Cheng (2008) obtained the same conclusion with their empirical studies. Accordingly, Powell as a practitioner proposes a holistic approach to measure brand equity, predicting to what extent the rebranding campaign is helping to improve the intangible (some of brand equity assets) and therefore to what extent it is influencing brand loyalty and the raise in purchases (tangible returns). Thus, Powell (2007) explains that marketers should try to identify the measurable outcomes of rebranding activities and correlate them with expected financial benefits. For instance, if a brand spends X to increase in 1% brand awareness, correlating this percent of increase to the increased purchase intention leads to a “nearly complete picture of how a
  • 50. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 38 Rebranding can drive incremental revenue, share and profit” (Powell, 2007:31 interview extract). 2.4 CHAPTER SUMMARY Fashion brands used different methods to update themselves and capture the attention of a certain target audience. According to which parts of the brand are affected by the changes undergone by the brand, were found: redesign, repositioning and communication. Being the current target of many fashion brands, the UK Male Generation Y of consumers are found to have unique characteristics. Marketers are challenged with this marketing-savvy generation who at the same time have a high purchasing power. Literature for rebranding to the Generation Y Males and measuring returns on investment of rebranding strategies was limited; this highlights the significance of the current research study. Chapter 3 discusses the research methodology that was used to describe the perception of the consumers towards fashion rebranding and the impact on their performance.
  • 51. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 39 3 METHODOLOGY This chapter aims to give to the reader detailed information about the research approach, the methodology, the tools and the criteria used for the collection and evaluation of the data. The chapter explains and justifies the Research philosophy and design, followed by the tools used in secondary and primary data collection. Moreover, exposes the sample group and the code of ethics presented to the participants in surveys and interviews. It also explains the treatment and/or tabulation of the information collected, in other words, how the data is collected and presented.
  • 52. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 40 3.1 RESEARCH PHILOSOPHY It is found (Proctor, 1998) that when structuring a research study the fact to expose personal beliefs or paradigms of the researcher, provides a better understanding of the relation between the ontological assumptions (what entities exist) epistemological assumptions (what can be known), and methodological assumptions (what research designs are appropriate for generating new knowledge) on which is based the investigation (Hunt and Hansen, 2010). Indeed, it has been found specifically necessary in any research to specify the philosophical approach, clarify its design, specify research methods and to make awareness of the possible constraints and opportunities of particular approaches (Easterby et al, 2002; Crossan, 2003; Hasslinger et al, 2007; Proctor, 1998). This permits the researcher to avoid the inappropriate methodologies (Easterby et al, 2002) and ensures consistency in the application of different methods to a research question (Proctor, 1998). 3.1.1 POST-POSITIVISM, BETWEEN THE NATURALISTIC AND THE SCIENTIFIC POINT OF VIEW There is a wide variety of approaches to be used when researching, however the most common are found to be: Relativism, Positivism, and Realism (Hunt and Hansen, 2010). In order to avoid confusions caused by the diversity of forms and differences in approaches, it is found a appropriate to show the main forms of thinking and research approaches. The chart shows a descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010):
  • 53. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 41 In one hand, the interpretive way of approaching believes that reality is subjective, self- referential, and therefore internally experienced, interpreted and constructed by the mind (Morgan and Smirch, 1980), consequently, knowledge cannot be discovered (Holden and Lynch, 2004). Moreover, this explorative approach stresses the complexity of human mind and social world (Saunders et al, 2007) and accordingly it uses qualitative methods through a naturalistic approach (Remenyi et al., 1998) what often leads to the incapacity to make generalisations (Bisman, 2010). However, despite it has been found the appropriate approach to study human behaviours (Bisman, 2010), for the concrete purpose of this research, this methodology has not been found pertinent because it is precisely served from quantitative methods with the aim to find generalised assumptions. On the other extreme it is found the positivist philosophy of research, which is believed to be the dominant among the general public (Bisman, 2010; Crossan, 2003). It conceives the world as prior to the existence of human consciousness (Holden and Lynch, 2004) and therefore, considering it as a tangible and immutable structure independent of the human knowledge (Gill and Johnosn, 1997), the reality can be observed and discovered. This scientific approach uses quantitative methods, such as Figure 6. Descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010).
  • 54. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 42 experimentation or observation in order to discover human experience, what contributes to keep the research free from values, passions and ideology of the researcher (Ryan, 2006). However, the main obstacle to be found in positive research is that contrary findings or those that simply can’t be explained are discarded (Bisman, 2010) in other words; it is not the nature of positivist approach to understand or search for contextual reasons for those anomalies. These facts make the current research distance from the scientific approach because the strict use of this approach would lead the findings to a lack of any contribution that statistical data is able to provide. While the purpose of this investigation, is concretely, to research about perceptions, behaviours and performances of humans and its reasons; the positive approach, as highlighted in Ryan (2006:14), is though to be inadequate to explain and predict social trends. On the other hand, despite subjective and objective researches are generally conceived as counter views, they are commonly used in conjunction. In Crossan (2003) is highlighted that scholars have suggest that the distinction between different philosophies is exaggerated and that the mixture of methods is common in research. This is precisely the case of the post-positivist approach, which serves this investigation to proceed with a combination of qualitative and quantitative methods to reach and explain the findings. Post-positivism critical realists recognise that all observation is fallible therefore every theory is revisable. This point explains the fact that although exists so many researches about the impact of marketing strategies on consumer behaviour, each of them still contributes to generate new knowledge of the field. In the same manner, post-positivism emphasises the importance of multiple measures and observations each of which may possess different types of error, and therefore supports the usage of different research tools as for instance those used in this research such as interviews and questionnaires. Accordingly, researchers and practitioners (Trochim, 2006; Bisman, 2010) stress that objectivity can be reached through the application of multiple or mixed research methods and that it benefices those studies examining human behaviours and is therefore, considered appropriate for the investigation conducted in this research.
  • 55. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 43 As shown in Figure 6, the Post-positivism is situated between the explanatory nature of natural sciences, and the aim to understand of social sciences, what enhances the creation of knowledge (Ryan, 2006; Raddon, 2010). Some believes about the nature of Social Research (shown below) support the appropriateness of the Post-positivist approach ad therefore, it has been found the most appropriate in order to conceive and relate to each other the fields of human behaviour and marketing strategies. -Research is broader than specialised -Theory and practise cannot be separated and -Proper research does not only concern correct techniques for collecting and categorising information. (Shratz and Walker, 1995:1-3; Ryan, 2006). To deal with the objectives of this is research, this approach supposes an advantage in understanding human performance because it connects researchers and the people who participate in research. Not only contributes to a better understanding of the consumers point of view, but it also allows a closer approach to a real Rebranding practice (The case of Ben Sherman Rebranding). In Ryan (2006) is highlighted that in this sort of research, the investigators learn with the subjects of the study rather than conducing research on them in other words, it is adopted a learning role rather than a testing one. Additionally, it is also noted that critical realism method of post-positivist approach, detect differences between reality and people perception of reality. This, applied to the research that concerns in this paper means to contrast the industry perceptions and previsions versus the real point of view of the consumer, its perception and performance.
  • 56. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 44 3.1.2 TRIANGULATED APPROACH In accordance with the post-positivist methodologies, a Triangulated approach is chosen due to the belief that the data extracted from those researches is more reliable as it provides richer and more comprehensive information. Different fonts provide the data that is collected for the investigation. From academic books to research papers and from the consumers to the Ben Sherman brand itself, provide information that is contrasted in order to approach the maximum objectivity and to find the causes of such reality. Such “multiple-source” approach provides the research with validity, reliability and updated data. Bailey and Turner (2009:2) suggest that when an independent third party asks questions separately to a company and its customers, it creates a triangulation of perspectives that helps to clarify issues better than one-way, single- observer research, additionally, thoughts are shared more candidly to an independent third party. Summarising, this approach is appropriate because of the non-interfering nature of the researcher in the results and investigation for not belonging to or having relation with any of the groups or facts on which the research is conducted. 3.2 RESEARCH DESIGN As found pertinent for the research, this chapter is organised in order to show all the major parts of the research project, since, exposed by Trochim (2006) the research design provides the structure that holds the research project together. In order to accomplish with the aim of this investigation, this research is taking a deductive approach. Firstly, with explanatory means, is searching for common behaviours amongst consumers and secondly, is moving to a more exploratory approach to understand the reasons and consequences of those common features found in the first part. The investigation starts from the review of what has been written by other researchers, academics and practitioners regarding branding, consumer behaviour and return on
  • 57. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 45 investment subjects. This first theoretic framework helps to narrow down from the global fields to the specific facts found interesting to be analysed in the posterior chapters. And is in the second part of the research, when those facts in the fields are tested and explained through the use of questionnaires and interviews. After an overall revision and relation between all facts, conclusions are written with the intention to create new and useful knowledge for the fields. 3.2.1 DEDUCTIVE REASONING The research would generally use a deductive mode of reasoning. It would be moving from the general cases in rebranding of fashion brands to the specific case of Ben Sherman brand. As noted above, deduction reasoning works from the more general to the more specific. This research commences with thinking up a theory about a topic of interest. Following, the issues are narrowed down to more specific hypothesis that can be tested, even further when collecting data from the observations to address the hypotheses. This ultimately provides the necessary support to test the hypotheses with specific data (confirming or not the proposed theories). In the Literature Review of this research (Chapter 2), previous theories on the subjects are discussed in order to contrast with the data collected in this research from the surveys to Consumers and Industry. As recommended in Goldbort (2006) it is provided a clear step-by-step flow of research (Figure 7) and explain the components of the research to avoid ambiguity.
  • 58. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 46 ! EXPLORE HOW A REBRANDING STRATEGY OF A FASHION BRAND IMPACTS ON A SPECIFIC TARGET GROUP AND ITS OVERALL RETURN OF INESTMENT FOR THE BRAND. 1. Explore the characteristics of the Generation Y and its consumer behaviour. ! 2. Explore the Re- branding implications over the marketing mix in the fashion industry. 3. Explore the discussions about the measurement of the Return on Investment of Rebranding. 4. Analyse the success of Ben Sherman ROI, in terms of tangible and intangible values for the Rebranding strategy in relation to Generation Y perspective and make recommendations for Rebranding in the fashion industry for this sector. Generation Y: Definition, Their Perception of the brands, Behaviour and Performance. Re-branding implications over the Marketing Mix Interviews to Brand/Communications manager THE INDUSTRY OBJECTIVES THE CONSUMER Questionnaires to customers LITERATURE REVIEW TRIANGULATION OF DATA Return of Investment in Re-branding strategies: Measurement: Tangible and Intangible incomes for the brand. ACTION RESEARCH ANALYSIS OF BEN SHERMAN REBRANDING ANALYSIS OF initial FINDINGS CONCLUSION DISCUSSION AIM RESEARCH METHODOLOGY CREATION OF A MODEL OF REBRANDING ROI MEASUREMENT. Integration of CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011) and Consumer- Based Brand Equity Model (Pappu et al, 2005). Figure 7. Research Methodology Overview
  • 59. MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 47 3.2.2 EXPLORATORY AND EXPLANATORY In this investigation, the Exploratory method is selected to gain new insights, “discover new ideas and/or increase knowledge” (Burns and Grove, 1998:38) of Rebranding effects on Gen. Y consumers and its returns for the brand. The surveys to consumers and interviews managers are interpreted with an ethnographic approach. This qualitative research design supported by the literature review acknowledged in the second chapter (Literature Review) would permit a comprehension of their cultural behaviour. On the other hand the Explanatory approach is used to find common patterns and quantify them, balancing the research with the provision of numerical, statistic data about the specific case of this research. 3.2.3 ACTION RESEARCH In order to accomplish with the aim of the research, the Ben Sherman case of Rebranding has been found appropriate as it embodies a common situation under study in this research. For this reason, the research narrows and focuses to the concrete case of Ben Sherman aiming to find out the returns and the impact of the recent changes or/and actions within brand assets and performance to a specific and group of population. This approach is mainly taken when gathering data in primary research, but is also present in every step of the research. Consequently, the research about rebrandings and Return on Investment, is carried in accordance with the main characteristics of the brand: is a Fashion company Rebranding with European Male Gen Yers as a target group. According to Coughlan and Coghlan (2002), where Action Research is defined as an approach to research that aims both at taking action and creating knowledge or theory about that action, it is deducted that the concerning research is taken with this approach. It has also been found, appropriate as Action research is popular in management (Dawson, 2009:17) and enables the comparative