1. Table Of Contents
Unpacking:
Recieving And Unpalleting the Furnace
1
Equipment and Materials Check List
2
Assembly
Setting the Crucible
3
Door Assembly
4
Multimeter
5
Element Preparation and Installation
6
Wiring
Cooling system
7
Element wiring
8
Thermocouple wiring
9
Control Unit Wiring
10
Upkeep
Maintenance
11
Crucible Change
12
Trouble shooting
13
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

2. 1
Recieving and Unpalleting
the Furnace
When moving the furnace a 6000# rated forklift is required. A
bobcat or tractor with forks will not suffice, the furnace is too
heavy for those machines.
1. place the furnace where
there is ample arrom to remove
the pallet from underneath the
furnace.
2. undo the shipping straps
and place them into the box
provided for return shipping.
3. Align the forks of the forklift
inbetween the wood stickers.
Be sure to clear the riser bolts
as well. The riser bolts are
underneath the furnace.
4. slide the forks in all the way,
tilt back the forklift a little, lift
up, remove the pallet, flip the
wheels down and set the furnace
down and roll it into place.
5.
Get a drill and a #2 phillips
head, take the crate apart. Lift
the control stand with the forks
inderneath the crossbars in the
middle above the transformer.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

3. Equipment and Materials
Checklist
Control Unit
Furnace
Door and door
frame
Elements
Element Bricks
Element Coolers
Straps and Clamps (for
elements)
Hardware for Straps (5/16” bolts,
nuts, washers, lock washers)
Dip lag ( fiberglass cloth
for top of furnace)
Multimeter
10 mm wrenches
No-alox
Thermocouple (attached
to control unit)
Blower unit ( attached to
control unit)
Door switch ( attached to
control unit)
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
2
1

4. 3
Setting the Crucible
To set the crucible you must first remove the packing material
inside the furnace to place the cruciblle. Lower the riser bolts
underneath the furn ace for stability.
1. Remove the dog house
cover that encases the clean
out port. This requires a 3/8”
hex driver bit.
2. Remove the frax plugs
from the clean out port. The
two inner plugs are 1” 2600F
frax. The plugs will need to
be placed back in the same
order, so be sure to keep them
together as you take them out.
3. There are two sections of
the crucible wrapping, the
section around the pot and
the section underneath. use
the cradle straps to lift the pot
upward to remove the bubble
wrap from ulnderneath.
Insert a 2x4 or a large metal
pipe. Get a secure position and
use the sill as your lever point.
Lift the pot upward.
This
usually requires two people to
do this.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

5. :Setting the Crucible
4. With the crucible elevated,
use the clean out port to
begin pulling out the bubble
wrap from undernieth. It can
be a struggle sometimes to
pull out the bubble wrap. This
also may require two people
5. Lower the crucible on the
floor of the furnace.
* If the crucible height is
different than you like you
can place a brick underneath
the pot. Use a cedramic fire
brick. (IFB are too soft for
the weight of the crucible).
Place the brick or bricks,
securely underneath the pot
to stabilize it.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
3

6. 3
:Setting the Crucible
6. Next, reach in through the
gathering port and slice away
the lifting straps using a razor
knife.
The bubble wrap is wrapped
around the sides of the crucible
and seccured with a piece of
tape. Cut the tape to pull the
bubble wrap out. The tape
is just below the edge of the
crucible on the outside.
Begin pullling the bubble wrap
straight up first before pulling
out. This will make it a bit
easier.
7. Once the bubble wrap is out,
check to see that there is equal
spacing from the walls, around
the crucible. wiggle the pot to
see if it is unstable. If so, just
use a bit of playground sand to
keep the crucible from rocking.
8. After the crucible is set,
return the frax plugs to the
clean out port in their original
order and reattach the dog
house cover.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

7. Door Assembly
The door track is a simple two
track system. The top track is
skewed outward from the
furnace to allow the door to
release instead of scrape alon
the face. The lower door track
is adjustable for gathering port
buildup.
The door itself is adjustable on
four bolts that hold the door
to the door frame. These four
posts allow you to adjust the
seal on your door.
1. Slide the door frames
together making sure the
allthread is is placed throught
the center hole on each frame.
This allhtread controlls the up
down adjustment but is only
applicable during installation. It
becomes a static measurement
once set.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
4

8. 4
:Door Assembly
2. Carefully pick the door up
and set it on the track. Use
a crescent wrench, or a 5/8”
wrench to adjust the height of
the door.
Now is the time to adgust the
allthread so the door is alligned
with the gathering port.
3. Once the door is on and
adjusted take the door switch
controller thats wired to your
control panel and attach it to
the mounting plate, located on
the top door track.
The controller will turn the
furnace on when the door is shut
and turn it off when it is open.
that is why it is important to
make sure that the toggle
switch has fully clicked over.
When the door is fully shut,
the toggle should catch the
bolt from the door castor and
you should hear a little click.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

9. :Door Assembly
4. The allthread for the lower
doortrack adjustment should
be sitting in the lower door track
upright, just below the door.
The lower door track can be
adjusted outward, in order to
swing door slightly away from
the gathering port as it slides
open. This Keeps the two faces
from scraping as the door slides
open and closed. It will also help
with the buildup of stringers.
5. Some of the furnace
models leave the door tracks
at dangerous heights. To
solve this just cut a tennis
ball or a racquet ball. Cut
just one slit about 1/3 of the
ball and slip the ball over the
end of each track.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
4

10. 5
Multimeter
The multimeter is the most important tool to keeping your
furnace running efficiently. This is how you will measure
different electrical properties.
Taking Measurments:
There are two different ways to take a measurement:
1. Induction Clamp:
The induction clamp at the top
of the meter. To use it, clamp
around the wire where testing
is needed and pull the trigger
on the side.
*Only clamp insulated wires,
do not clamp bare wires. Make
sure that the clamp is secure
to get an accurate reading.
2. Probes:
Use the two probes to touch
the testing sites where testing
is desired.
Most new meters have plugs
inserted in to the probe
connectors. Remove these
and plug the probes into the
appropriately colored slots at
the bottom.
*A bare wire or screw terminal is
necessary to achieve a reading.
Measurements will be displayed
on the digital screen. “OL” (off
line) it a default reading that
appears when no measurement
is present.
*Take extreme caution when taking electrical measurements.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

11. :Multimeter
Types of Measurments:
There are three main measurement settings that will be relevant
for this product:
1. V
2. A
3. Ω/
(Volts)
(Amperage)
(Continuity/
Ohms/
Resistance)
When measuring V
the Probes.
or Ω use
When Measuring A
Induction Clamp
use the
You can select the type of
*Notice that there are two
measurement you would like
different measurment settings to take by turning the dial to
for V and A (V
and A )
the appropriate icon.
These settings use a different
type of curent and are not
applicable to our products.
All measurements taken with
this meter will be in AC mode
(alternating current), indicated
by the
.
The only two buttons you will
use from time to time are
the sensitivity button ( )and
the backlight button(for dark
areas).
You can also measure Ω with
an auditory signal by turning
the dial to the sound icon.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
5

12. 5
Element Prep and Installation
You are now ready to prep the elements for assembly and
installation. Each element assembly will be placed in the crown.
Element Assembly
1. To begin, remove the element
boxes from the crate. Test each
element for continuity before
opening the element boxes
by placing the probes to the
terminal ends. Use the sound
symbol on your multi meter as
shown in the earlier section.
2. Once the contunuity is established, clear a large work area
to assemble the heater components as shown below. Along
with the heaters, you will need:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
tape measure
10 mm wrenches that are supplied
a razor knife
the element bricks
the ceramic element clamps
a chopstick or BBQ skewer
and the ceramic fiber that is provided.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

13. :Element Prep and Installation
3. The elements are very fragile,
but if handled correctly they
will last for years. To handle
the elements pick them up by
the wooden stability blocks.
ilustration
Set the element on the table,
place one side of the element
on the table. The terminal
shank is what you want to
lay down, the heater portion
should not touch the table.
Then set the other side down
gently.
4. To place the element in the
brick you must remove one of
the wooden blocks. Take your
razor knife and carefully slice
the tape holding the block to
the element. Now gently flip
the element over and slice the
other side. be careful not to
stress the element.
*Do not cut the tape on the
other wooden block close to the
heater portion. If you do cut the
tape, replace it promptly. do
not handle the element without
the wooden block in place.
*Only work on one element at a time, this reduces the chance of
breakage
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
6

14. 6
:Element Prep and
Installation
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

15. :Element Prep and
Installation
5. Once the tape is cut,
gently slide the wooden block
out. To do this move the
block toward the open end,
do not pop the block out from
its original position, this will
break the element.
Now that the block is out, the
best way to handle the
element is to pick it up by
the front block and cradle the
element underneath with a
flat hand. Do not squeeze
or pry on the terminal ends,
this will break the element.
6. The element brick has two
different ends, small holes for
insertion and large holes for
insulating. Insert the element
into the small holes. If the
element does not move
effortlessly, STOP, take the
element out and ream the
holes with a piece of
all-thread. The one in the
lower door track works well.
Rub the inside of the holes to
get proper alignment.
Try again. Do not force the
element in, this will break the
element. The wooden block
stays in the element for
stability, and gets burned out
on warm up. It does not hurt
anything to keep the block in
the element.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
6

16. 6
:Element Prep and
Installation
7. Now take the tape
measure and measure 4” from
the beginning of the taper of
the element to the brick as
shown below. A 75# furnace
will be a 3” measurement and
a 600# furnace will be a 5”
measurement.
8. Now that the element is in
the brick, we have to insulate
and seal the terminal shanks.
Get your BBQ skewer, the
scrap frax, and a comfortable
seat. Tear the frax into small
pieces and stuff in around
the terminal shank. Use the
skewer to pack the frax all the
way in. Get a nice tight seal.
If the shank is off center, pack
it that way. Trying to force
it center will put stress on
the element and break it. Fill
the holes all the way flush as
shown above.
It takes a lot more frax than
it looks to fill these small
cavities around the terminal
shanks.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

17. :Element Prep and
Installation
9. After you are finished
stuffing the element brick,
take one of the ceramic
element clamps and place it
on the terminals. You’ll have
to unscrew the bolt all the
way for this. The bolt is the
only piece that moves in this
assembly, the nut is fused to
the clamp.
Place the clamp flush to the
brick, this is what keeps the
element from falling into the
furnace. Before you tighten
the clamp, re-measure the
front of the brick to the taper
of the element.
10. Once that is checked,
tighten the bolt with the 10
mm wrenches. Do this slowly
and carefully, tighten as much
as you can. Don’t be afraid to
over-tighten. You might hear
some cracking noises, but
that is only the ceramic
holders, not the elements.
*It is a good idea to lay out
all of your element
assemblies, as shown to
the right, before you begin
instalation.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
6

18. 6
:Element Prep and
Installation
Next, prepare the furnace for the elements
To prepare the holes for the elements in the top of the
furnace. The element holes have been cut out prior to
shipping but are not exact, and shipping can jostle the
position of the holes.
12. First, take an empty
element brick to see if it fits
in the hole properly. You want
the brick to be slightly difficult
to slide in and out.
ilustration
Next, make sure that the hole
in the fiber is centered and
square to the hole in the
crown. If the hole needs to
be realigned, take the kitchen
knife ( no serraded knives)
and slice away the fiber frax
to achieve the correct
alignment. You cannot simply
push the fiber over a little. It
has to be cut.
Now, remove any small scraps
that are below on the crown
so the element brick can
make a good seal.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

19. :Element Prep and
Installation
Inserting the elements
13. When all of the holes are
prepared, get a ladder and
position it in front of the first
hole you will work on. It is
extremely important to move
the ladder every time you
change holes. Also, be sure
there is ample space above
the furnace to fit the element
in.
14. Pick the element brick
assembly up and hold the
heater end down. When
moving any element
assembly, always hold the
heater end down to avoid
breakage. The element can
slip backward through the
brick. Pick the element brick
15. Steady yourself and aim
the element into the crown.
*Be careful not to scrape the
heater against the crown as
you insert it into the furnace.
Lean against the top ring as
you lower the element in to
keep your stability.
16. Once the element brick gets to the fiber, re-position your
hands to sit on top of the fiber as shown. When your hands
are in position slowly work the brick down through the top.
*Listen and feel for any scraping that the element may do on
the way down. If the element does scrape, angle the brick
away from the side that is scraping and insert more frax. If
the scraping persists, STOP, take the element out and cut a
larger hole in the fiber frax. Then try again.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
6

20. 6
:Element Prep and
Installation
17. After the element is
ilustration
in, make sure that it is
perpendicular to the top of
the furnace. You can adjust
the position more when you
stuff around the brick to seal
in the heat.
18. Stuff pieces of fiber in
around the element brick. Fill
in completely around the brick
all the way to the crown. This
is important for the health of
the furnace. Holes in the
insulation allow off-gassing
to eat away at the crown
and element bricks. When
stuffing be careful to keep the
element perpendicular to the
top.
19. After stuffing around the
bricks, cut sections of the
diplag provided to seal in the
fiber around the brick. The
diplag is fiberglass cloth that
has been immersed is wheat
gluten. Just wet it and smear
it to get a seal it dries in a
few hours.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

21. :Element Prep and
Installation
20. Now that all the elements
are in, check one last time
that the alignment insidethe
furnace is correct. The
elements should not be
touching the walls, and should
be pointing straight down. If
you leave elements in crooked
they will deform when used
for a while. This makes
difficult to take them out for
crucible changes, and puts
strain on the element itself,
causing it to be prone to
breakage.
*These elements have a long
life, some have been working
for ten years strong. This is
only possible if the element is
installed, maintained and used
properly.
21. Next, you’ll need to put
the di-electric shielding before
the next phase of asembly.
This is a piece of diplag that is
the sam size as the element
brick. Cut an “X” in the diplag
pieces provided for the
element terminals to slide
through. The diplag
should cover all of the
element clamp.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
6

22. 7
Cooling System
The cooling system helps dissipate the heat before it can
reach the electrical connections. The cooling system is
required on all the furnace models except for the #75 model
(this is because the #75 does not transmit as much heat as
the other models). Keeping the electrical connections cool is
essential to the efficiency of the unit.
The components of the
cooling system are:
e
a the blower
b
b the blower manifold
c
a
c barb fittings
d the element coolers
e
e the clear vinyl tubing
d
1. First, install the element
coolers. They slide over the
terminal shanks with the tube
pointing away. The coolers
are metal and not ceramic for
durability.
make sure to keep the coolers
angled so they do not touch
each other. Allowing the
element coolers to touch may
cause a short in the element.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

23. :Cooling System
2. Next, find the toubing connection pattern for your furnace.
Each grouping of elements must connect to the barb fittings
on the appropriate face of the manifold.
Each arrangement is differnt so be sure and follow the one
that matches your furnace. The numbers refer to the number
of elements in the furnace.
4
a
b
6
a
b
c
a
b
8
a
a
b
c
9
a
c
a
c
b
b
c
b
a
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
c
b
7

24. 7
:Cooling System
3. Next, we connect the coolers to the manifold usign the
tubing. The furthest elements connect to the lowest barbs on
their respective manifold face (a,b or c) as seen below, this
allows the tubing to layer and stack more evenly.
b
a
c
a
c
b
b
a
a
b
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

25. :Cooling System
Pick a group to start with (a,
b or c) and Insert one end of
the tubing on to the lowest
hose barb fitting on that face
of the manifold.
Measure out the length to
the furthest element cooler
of that group and use a razor
knife and cut the tube. Leave
about five inches of extra
length, you may have to
reposition the tube later.
Connect the other end of the
tubing to to cooler so there is
about a half an inch of tubing
on the cooler.
4. Connect all the coolers
to the manifold one at a
time, connecting the furthest
coolers to the lowest barbs.
The tubing must all fit
between two oppenings, one
on either side of the manifold.
*Placing the tubing outside
of these uprights will not let
the top cage go back on. The
larger models may require
that the tubing be looped
around.
*Do not let the tubing get
kinked, as no air will pass
through and the cooler will
heat up.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
7

26. 8
Element Wiring
Wiring in the elements requires:
the element straps
the 10 mm wrenches that were
provided
the 5/16” hardware
a ½” socket
and a crescent wrench or ½” wrench
In element sizing there are two measurements: thickness and
length. The thickness is what is referenced here. Elements are
identified by two thickness measurements and represented as
heater thickness/terminal thickness (mm).
With furnaces, there are two sizes of elements that are used:
either the 6/12 elements or the 9/18 elements. The #75,
#100 and #200 furnaces all use 6/12 elements and the 300#
and up use 9/18 elements. This is relevant because the 6/12
elements require one strap per element terminal and the 9/18
elements require two straps per element terminal.
Pic: straps
in separate
pieces,
including
bolts
1. The element straps come
in two parts: the strap itself
and the clip to hold it securely
on the element. The nut is
fused into place so you have
to unscrew the bolt to fit the
clip over the strap. Assemble
all clamps and straps and
leave the bolts loose so you
can fit them over the terminal
ends.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

27. :Element Wiring
2. Next, with the bolt
unscrewed and the end clip
on, gently wiggle the strap
back and forth as you slowly
move the strap down the
terminal. It helps to brace
the element brick with your
hand placed on the element
clamp.
*If you are having a hard
time getting the strap on,
it may be that some of the
straps can get knots in the
braiding.
Look inside the element
loop to see if there are any
obstructions in the path.
You may need to ream them
out or get another strap.
Sometimes they just have to
be worked down by holding
both sides of the strap
assembly and wiggled down
evenly.
Pic: inside
element loop
3. Place all the straps on the
terminals, make sure that
the straps are completely on
the white part of the element
terminal.
*If there are two straps per
terminal keep them both as
high up on the terminal as
possible. Two straps are
just a little bigger than the
connection area provided on
the terminal.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
8

28. 8
:Element Wiring
4. Arrange the straps
according to the pattern
that corresponds with your
furnace type, provided in the
following pages (numbers).
Each furnace and phase has
a specified number of straps,
and designated connections.
*Above:#200 & 300 Single
Phase wiring pattern.
*Be sure to arrange the
straps with the ends pointing
towards the outside of the
furnace so the links do not
touch each oher. Allowing the
straps to tough will cause
a short.
5. Next, you join the
strap ends. Get the 5/16”
hardware, the 1/2” wrenches,
and the bottle of No-Alox.
Begin by applying the No-Alox
to the strap ends.
Conect the strap ends from
each link together by putting
the hardware through the
holes. If there are two straps
per terminal connect all
four straps together. Do not
separate the two pairs of
straps.
Each bolt assemble has to
have two washers and at least
one lock washer. There are
several longer bolts. These
are for the welding cable
connections so be sure you
are using the shorter ones to
connect the strap ends.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

29. :Element Wiring
6. Now, pull the welding
cables through the strain
relief plate on the back. The
designations of the welding
cables are shown on the
wiring pattern diagrams as
well. Use the larger bolts
provided. Each cable is
labeled. Place according to
the diagrams.
*Do not lay the
welding cables across any
straps or elements.
7. Once you have made all
the connections, your furnace
should look similar to what
is shown to the right. Before
moving on to the next step,
re-tighten all of the bolts
on the straps and all of the
connection bolts. Loose
connections are the #1 cause
of failure in an electrical
system.
new pic
Don’t put the top cage on
yet. Wait until the very end,
you will need to tighten the
connections one more time.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
8

30. 8
:Element Wiring
The diagrams that follow are labeled accordingly to the phase
and furnace size. They give give accurate placements of the
strap connections so follow the cable designations and strap
patterns closely.
Single Phase:
#75 - element size 6/12, 280 le/400 lu
#100 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

31. :Element Wiring
Single Phase:
#200 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu
#300 - element size 9/18, 300 le/500 lu
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
8

32. 8
:Element Wiring
Single Phase:
#400 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu
#600 - element size 9/18, 500 le/500 lu
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

33. :Element Wiring
Three Phase:
#100 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu
#200 - element size 6/12, 300 le/450 lu
#300 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
8

34. 8
:Element Wiring
Three Phase:
#400 - element size 9/18, 315 le/500 lu
#600 - element size 9/18, 300 le/500 lu
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

35. :Element Wiring
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
8

36. 9
Thermocouple Wiring
Now that you have set up the cooling system and wired the
elements, the next step is the Thermocouple wiring.
The thermocouple wires are type R, rated for temperatures up
to 3000F. There are two thermocouple wires in the assembly;
one is wired to your 981 controller and one is wired to your
Over-Temperature Protection.
When the Furnace is heated
up you will notice a difference
in the temperature readings,
these readings will come
closer together. While
thermocouples are a good
indication of the temperature,
you should always pay more
attention to the glass rather
than the temperature reading.
That is why you should not
rely on exact temperatures
for batching, cooking or
working.
Flange Fitting
Thermocouple
Assembly
Liquid-Tite Fitting
Thermocouple
Wires
Liquid-Tite
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

37. :Thermocouple Wiring
1. Unwrap the thermocouple
head and insert into the
flange fitting on the side of
the furnace. Carefully match
the threads and rotate a
couple of threads for stability.
Do not tighten all the way.
After use, damage can occur
if the thermocouple has been
tightened to much.
2. Place the liquid-tite in the
fitting as pictured. Pull the
thermocouple wires through,
then insert the liquid-tite
into fitting and screw down
the compression fitting.
3. Push some of the wire
back into the liquid-tite fitting
for slack when rewiring
occurs. Cut the wires to
length as shown and strip the
wires where there is about a
half inch of exposed wire.
Then fold the exposed wire in
half.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
9

38. 9
:Thermocouple Wiring
4. The black wire is positive
and the red wire is negative.
There are positive and
negative symbols engraved
on the ceramic plate
underneath both
thermocouples.
5. The Center Screws on each
thermocouple should never
be unscrewed. The outer
screws are for the wires to go
into the holes in the terminal
block. Insert the exposed
folded end in to the connector
with positive and negative in
the appropriate sides and
screw down tightly.
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39. :Thermocouple Wiring
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9

40. 10
Control Unit Wiring
Wiring Components:
Illustrated below are the basic components that we will be
working with in this section.
*Extreme caution needs to be taken when
working with electricity. A licensed electritia
should make all the connections
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

41. :Control Unit Wiring
Control Unit
*Breaker Box
Control Panel
*MFD
(main fuse disconnect)
Transformer
* The Breaker Box and the MFD are not included. The
Braker Box should be your existing box and the MFD will
have to be purchased
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10

42. 10
Control Unit Wiring
Control Panel & Transformer:
The Control Panel is mostly
prewired and tested in our
facility, however, there are
still a few connections you
must make. You should have
a liscenced electritian make
all of the connections from
your breaker to the control
pannel.
The control unit system
consists of two main
components:
1. Control Panel
2. Transformer
a
c
b
e
d
There are several indicators
and controls on the the face
of the Control Unit that will be
important.
a 981
b Overature limiter
c Power indicator light
d On/off switch
e Door lights
*Extreme caution needs to be taken when
working with electricity.
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43. :Control Unit Wiring
10
Inside the Control Panel you will find:
Logo PLC (programable logic control)
Icecube Relays (interposing relays)
Safety
SCR
Contactors
Fuses
Low Power
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
High Power

44. 10
:Control Unit Wiring
Wiring Connections:
By now you should have the Blower, the Door Switch and the
Thermocouples all connected to the Control Panel. Now you
are ready to hook power up to the Control unit
There are two separate circuits that need to be connected to
hook up the furnace to a power source: the Control Circuit
and the Power Wiring. Both the Power Wiring and the Control
Circuit need to connect the control Panel
to the Breaker Box. The Control
Circuit will also pass
through an MFD
before it connects
to the Breaker Box.
Each connection
will be outlined in
greater detail on
thefollowing pages.
Door switch
Blower
Thermocouples
*Extreme caution needs to be taken when
working with electricity.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

45. :Control Unit Wiring
4. The power wiring
and the control circuit
to the breaker box
1. The power
wiring to the
safety
3. The power
wiring to the
MFD
2. The control
circuit to the
icecube relays
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10

46. 10
:Control Unit Wiring
1. The power wiring to
the safety
The power wring that feeds the elements should be rated at
125% of the FLA (Full Load Amperage). This means that if you
have 100 amps of current, you should have a conductor (wire)
that is rated to cary at least 125 amps.
The chart on he following page shows the FLA and the 125%
rating for the power circuits of the various sizes of furnaces
with the most common voltages. Stranded THHN wire is
reccomended.
Connect the power wiring to the the safety contactor in the
center of the control panel. The connections are labled x1, x2,
and x3 on the backplane.
You should tighten these connections repeatedly to
compensate for Cold Creep. Tighten them about 30 min after
you first connect them and then again after you run the
firnace. After this you should only have to tighten them every
four months or so.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

47. :Control Unit Wiring
#70
FLA
#100
#200
#300
#400
#600
#70
125%
#100
#200
#300
#400
#600
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10

48. 10
Control Unit Wiring
2. The control circuit to
the icecube relays
The Control Circuit wire should also be rated at 125% of the
FLA (Full Load Amperage). Romex wire is recommended.
Connect the Control Circuit wire to the Icecube Relay in the
top left corner of the control panel.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

49. :Control Unit Wiring
3. The power wiring to
the MFD
Every Furnace requires a
main fuse disconnect line
inside of the circuit breaker in
the main breaker panel. The
disconnect should be
mounted within five feet of
the control panel.
Both the Control Circuit and
the Power Wiring will pass
through the MFD. However,
only the Power Wiring will
connect. the Control Circuit
will run along side the
connection in the box but will
not connect to anything.
5’
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10

50. 10
:Control Unit Wiring
4. The power wiring
to the breaker box
and the control circuit
Now you are ready to connect both the Control Circuit wire
and the Power Wiring to the Breaker Box.
The Furnace requires a
dedicated breaker that meets
the specifications provided by
specs sheet.
* Wiring electrical circuits can
be dangerous, always check
and verify that the power is
off.
There need to be two
separate circuits, one for the
high voltage that powers the
elements and a 10 amp 120
volt breaker dedicated for the
control circuitry.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

51. :Control Unit Wiring
Clean up:
Now that you have made all the neccassary wiring
connections, you need to organize and secure all the loose
wires.
Run the wire for the door
switch around the outside of
the top ring. Use zip ties to
secure the cable as shown.
Gather the extra slack from
the door switch, blower and
thermocouple wires, coil it
and zip-tie them together. You
can tie them to the Control
Unit structure to keep them
off the ground.
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10

52. 10
Control Unit Wiring
Two #600 kit units
#100 unit
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

53. :Control Unit Wiring
#300 unit
#300 unit
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10

54. 11
Maintenance
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55. :Maintenance
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
11

56. 11
Maintenance
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

57. :Maintenance
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide
11

58. 12
Crucible Change
Crucible changes are recommended about every 80 batches
and when a leak occurs.
Crucible leaks have a slightly different protocol. When a
crucible leaks the cleanout port has to be opened to scrape
out the glass that has accumulated in the bottom of the base
casting. Turn the furnace up to 2300˚ F and scrape out as
much glass as possible. Then begin the normal procedures
starting with step numbe one.
Pic
1. To change a crucible pry
away the pot from the sill and
place a small section of soft
brick between the crucible
and sill of the face casting.
This is done while the furnace
is still hot. This ensure that
the crucible doesn’t cool and
harden to the castings. Once
the soft brick is in place then
open the door and turn off the
furnace. When the
temperature is tolerable begin
freeing the crucible to strap
and lift out of the furnace.
2. Turn the funace off by
flipping rthe breaker switch.
Once the furnace has come
down in temperature start
removing the thermocouple
by unwiring and removing the
liquid-tite from the fitting
first, then use a 5/16” hex
driver tounscrew the self
drilling screws that hold the
flange in place. Set
somewhere safe.
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59. :Crucible Change
3. Next, undo all the
connections between the
elements leaving the straps
connected to the element
terminals. Disconnect and
remove the welding cables as
well.
Remove the clear hoses from
the coolers by making a slit
down the hose the length of
the connection and wiggle off.
Leave the hoses connected to
the manifold.
4. Remove all the elements
with extreme care as some
deformity has occurred due to
temperature. Place all the
elements safely away from
the work area.
5. A chain hoist is required to
remove the crown and the
crucible. An average 1 ton
chain hoist is more than
adequate. A beam that is high
enough to compensate for the
length of the hoist and the
crucible is critical.
If the hoist is not placed high
enough the crucible will not
clear the top ring. A forklift
works well if the ceilings are
high enough to lift the forks
for proper working height.
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12

60. 12
:Crucible Change
6. Fish a strap through two
of the holes that seem to be
centered on the crown.
7. Next, tie the straps into a
solid but removable knot.
Tighten the knot so that there
is little slack in the tow rope.
8. Move either the fork lift or
the chain hoist into place. Lift
slowly and begin to raise the
crown off the top. Lift the
crown free then move it away
from the furnace set the
crown on 2x4’s or some
blocks. Something to keep it
from pinching the tow cable.
Effective Heat Glass Works, Installation Guide

61. :Crucible Change
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12

62. 12
:Crucible Change
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63. :Crucible Change
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12