1. The Duties and Responsibilities of a Garment Merchandiser
Garment merchandising position is a RMG industry. But it remains true that it contains a lot of
risks. To handle all items related with Garment Merchandising is s hard. But if someone
(Merchandiser) draws the high concentration on their job then he will become a successful
merchandiser.
Anyway, Now I would like to write the mail role of a Merchandiser. The main role of a garment
merchandiser is to collect garment export order (Export L/C). Then produce the garments and
export. If a Merchandiser cans the all operation successfully then his garment owner as well as
he will be benefited. But it’s a matter of true that to perform those above functions successfully
needs huge knowledge and tremendous effort for a Merchandiser.
Duties and Responsibilities of Merchandiser:
The major duties and responsibilities of a garment merchandiser are as below-
@ To procure or collect a garment export order or export L/C
@ To estimate time schedule for the export of those garments as per L/C
@ To arrange all the materials needed for the garments to manufacture and export
@ To monitor collection of raw materials as per time schedule
@ To monitor the quantity and quality of the collected raw materials
@ To select garment factory if needed
@ To monitor garment production progress as per time schedule
@ To monitor desired/ imposed quality level of the produced garment
@ To monitor garment packing instructions
@ To monitor banking and shipment arrangements as per schedule
@ To maintain continuous liaison with the buyer representative if needed
@ To maintain continuous liaison with controlling authorities
@ To follow up payment collection against garments export as per schedule
@ And finally, To earn profit through garment export execution
Button = mmx1.6 = Line (10mm = 1cm)
1GG=1728 Pcs. [GG=Great Gross] =12
144Pcs=1G (Gross)
Formula: Button’s Dias / 0.635 mm
Example: 25/0.635mm
= 39.37
=40
2. @ This button should be Lead /Phthalates free –Non – Toxic buttons.
@ Button pull test must be pass by 90 N
Scotch Tape: 1Roll = 25 Yards, Gum Tape: 1Roll = 50 Yards
Sewing Thread: Made in 100% polyester
• 20/3 -2000mitres = 1 cone
• 20/2 – 3000mitres = 1 cone
• 40/2 – 4000mitres = 1 cone
• 50/2 – 4000mitres = 1 cone
• 60/2 – 5000mitres = 1 cone
Interlining:
• Woven Interlining / Fusing
• Paper Interlining / Fusing
• Both are: a) Fusible b) Non- Fusible
Measurement of Different Garments (Conversion)
16drams= 1ounce 16ounces= 1pound (lbs) Gross Weight(KG) 20
454gm=1lbs(pound) 1gm= 0.0022lbs Net Weight (KG) 19.5
1kg=2.2046lbs 1lbs= 0.454kg CBM- Cubic
meter(length*width*height)
1meter= 39.37inch 1inch= 2.54cm
1dz weight= gm/37.8= lbs 100cm= 1m
10mm = 1cm 36inch = 1 yard
1inch = 8 shuta 1.094yard = 1metre
28.20gm = 1ounce 1 stone = 14 lbs
1 quarter = 28 lbs 1 ton = 2240 lbs
Table of Land Measurements:
3. LINEAR MEASURE:
1 inch = 0.0833 foot 1 link = 7.92 inches
1 foot = 12 inches = 30.48cm 1 vara = 33 inches
1 vara = 2.75 feet 1 yard = 3 feet = 91.44 cm
16.5 feet = 25 links 1 rod/pole/perch = 25 links
1 chain = 100 links 1 rod = 16.5 feet
1 rod = 5.5 yards 100 links = 4 rods
1 chain = 66 feet =22 yards = 100 links (length of a cricket wicket, about 20 metres)
1 link = 7.92 inches 1 mile = 80 chains
1 mile = 320 rods
1 mile = 8000 links
1 mile = 5280 feet
1 mile = 1760 yards
SQUARE (sq.) MEASURE:
144 sq inches = 1 sq foot (ft.) 9 sq. ft. = 1 sq. yard (yd.)
16 sq. rods = 1 sq. yd. 1 sq. rod = 272.25 sq. ft.
1 sq. chain = 4356 sq. ft.
1 acre = 4 rods = 10 sq. chains = 4840 sq. yds = Statute acre = 0.40 hectare (a good sized football
pitch) 160 sq. rods = 1 acre
43560 sq. ft. = 1 acre 640 acres = 1 sq. mile
1 sq. ft. = 144 sq. inches
# Spandex/Lycra-Wool with1 ply elastic
Nylon- Fresh wool
SWEATER: Say, 1pc garment weight= 245gm
245/37.8=6.48lbs per dz garments weight/12=0.54lbs per pc garment weight
Again, 1cone yarn weight =800gm so, 800/1000 *2.2046=1.76lbs
There are below some yarn name:
• Acrylic 20/2, 32/2, 34/2, 36/2
• Acrylic Mélange 32/2, 36/2
• Acrylic Tube Yarn1-2.5
• Acrylic Cashmere Like/ Mélange 28/2
• Acrylic AP Cashmere Like 28/2
5. • Acrylic Nylon Twist 1/19
• Acrylic Wool 32/2
• Acrylic Wool Brush 1-2.5
• Acrylic Angora
• Cotton Merino Wool30/2
• Mélange- Yarn + viscose (the sodium salt of cellulose xanthenes)
• Acrylic Cash million 2/36, 2/32
• Lamb’s wool Nylon 2/16
There are below some quotes of Garment office:
• Quality in the first time- Starting every operation with right quality.
• No recruitment of child labour
• Today is the day, Tomorrow will never come
• Please don’t enter lift at the time of fire
• No dust in the garments
• Keep area clean
• Needle free zone
• No smoking
• Safety first
• First aid box
• Fire alarm
• Danger Electricity
• Emergency Alarm switch
• Stair going down
6. • Littering prohibited
• On emergency export duty
• Smoking and Naked flames forbidden
• Drinking water
• Emergency exit
• Lift is very dangerous at the time of fire
• Climbing stairs is very way, To keep daily effective exercise avoid lift in house and
offices
Container Loading:
• FCL- Full container loading
• LCL- Less container loading
Vessel:
Mother Vessel
Feeder Vessel
Air:
Formula of air container booking:
6000 cm3 = 1KG ------- $2.80
Destination:
NDC-UK
SDC-UK
DIDC-UK
Jabel Ali-Dubai
Chittagong- BD
Consigner Consignee
Origin Destination
Exporter/Supplier Importer/ Buyer
7. Kind of WASH:
• Normal Wash: After wash fabric is soft, clean
• Enzyme Wash: After wash fabric is soft, use affect
• Normal Enzyme: Poplin, Baby Canvas , Fine twill
• Silicon Enzyme: After wash fabric is new look, Used in ladies dress.
• Heavy Enzyme: Heavy canvas, Heavy denim, Heavy twill
• Stone Enzyme: White affect, just denim.
• Bleach Wash: 80% color fadeout, More clean
• Whitening Wash: After wash fabric is whiter/ light white
• Pigment Wash: After wash fabric is more clean and colorful
• Acid Wash: First wash stone + potassium permanganate (without white) then wash
with water
• Caustic Wash:
• Garment Wash and Over-Dye: First wash then dye choice able color
• Send Blast: After wash fabric is white affect / old affect
• Crinkle: After wash fabric looks a small fold or crease
• Destroy Affect: After use this fabric is damage some or small aria, Used Granting
Machine
Fabric Consumption:
KNIT
Formula-1: {1/2 chest x (Bl+Slv L)} x2 / 10000000 X GSM + Wastage x12 Kg/Dz (Tens of
Millions)
9. = 1.25yards+0.0625
= 1.32yards
@ Garments- Any article of clothing.
@ Knit- From by interweaving yarn
@ Fiber- A slender thread
@ knitting- The work of a knitter
@ Sweater- A knitted jacket usually of wool (An employer who overworks and underpays those
who work for him)
@ Sweat-shop- A work shop in which the employees work under bad conditions and for low
wages @ Sweating-System- The practice of working poor people under
insanitary conditions and at low wages
@ Wove > Woven (pp of weave) - Form into a fabric
@ Weaver- One who weaves
@ Weaving- The act or art of forming cloth in a loom (a machine for weaving cloth)
@ Unite by inter-mixture- compose (He has woven a romantic tale)
@ Ware- Things manufactured for sale
@ Ware-house- a store for waters or goods
@ GSM- Gram per Square Meter (weight of 1 meter fabric in gram)
@ Seam- The joining of two edges of a cloth.
@ EPI-Ends per inch PPI- Picks per inch
@ SPI- Stitch per inch SPC- Stitch per com
@ CVC- Chief Value cotton
@ Carton- A box made of cardboard
@ Cartoon- A cinematograph film made of comical drawings
SQC- Statistical Quality Control:
Statistical quality control means the employment of various statistical methods in the quality
control program.
AQL- Acceptable Quality Label
Quality- Mr. Adward Denim (Japan)
10. Quality- Quality characteristics of an entity (product, services etc.) that bears on its ability to
satisfy stated and implied needs
Quality Control- Quality control is an effective system for interchanging the quality
maintenance and quality improvement efforts of various groups is an organization, So as to
enable productions at the most economical levels which allow full satisfaction for the customer.
TQM- Total Quality Management:
Total quality management is described as an all in-charge fully integrated productivity technique.
It helps to create new markets, expend existing markets and recapture lost markets by utilizing
optimum capability of man, machine, material method and products with reduced cost.
So, total quality control starts from market. i.e. from purchasing material, machine and ends in
the market. Selling the finished products in the market including after sale service
it in clouds market analysis quality control, preventive, maintenance, wastage control, inventory
control, cost reduction and after sales services.
3 Types of Needle:
• Sharp point- Woven
• Ball point- Knit
• Cutting point- Leather, Hard fabric
Garments Quotes:
Woven: Two sets of yarn which form a structure by using interlacement is called woven
Knit: One set of yarn which form a structure by using interloping is called knit.
Sweater: Generally sweater is fully fashion. i.e. Fully fashion is a method which made a shape
by using interloping/ interlocking that made/form encoring / doffing number of needle
Single Jersey: If knit fabric both side not same is called single jersey (single jersey)
Double Jersey: If knit fabric both side same is called double jersey. Jersey stitch form face to
face (interlock & rib)
Chest-below: Crutch point left seam to right seam straight.
Waist: Middle of the left seam to middle of the right seam straight. (Part of the human body
between the ribs and hips)
11. Sweep: End of the left seam to end of the right seam straight. (To extend in a long curve or line
or slope).
Sleeve-Length: Head of the sleeve joint to end of the sleeve bottom rolling/ cuff.
12.
13. MACHINERY BY BRAND & MODEL:
Sl. Machine Name Brand Model
1
SINGLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH
M/C
JUKI DDL-227
BROTHER DB2-B735-6
JACK JK-5550
TYPICAL GC-6150H
2 TWO NEEDLE LOCK STITCH M/C
JUKI LH-3528S
BROTHER LT2-B842-3
3 OVER LOCK M/C
JUKI MO-2316
PEGASUS MO-732
4 TWO NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH M/C JUKI MH-380
5
MULTI NEEDLE CHAIN STITCH
M/C
KANSAI DFB-1404
RENOUN MT-12
6 FEED OF THE ARM
JUKI MS-1190/1190M
DALIAN KG-43001
7 BUTTON HOLE M/C
BROTHER LH4-B814-2
JUKI LBH-781
8 BUTTON SEWING M/C BROTHER LK3-B438-E
9 BAR TACK M/C JUKI
10 PIN HOLE M/C STAGER SZ-25N
11 ZIG-ZAG STITCHING M/C PROTEX
12 SADDLE STITCH M/C JUKI SS-3888
13 BLAIND STITCH M/C TREASURE BS-101
14 COLLAR BOTTOM CUTTING M/C KSP-586
15 STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING M/C KM/EASTMAN KS-AUV/629X
16 FUSING M/C
HASHIMA HPM-600 B
FIBLON HM-450
NGAISHING NS-8934
17 SIDE SEAM FUSING M/C NGAISHING NS-8232
18 FABRIC INSPECTION M/C TSSM
19 END CUTTER M/C KM KC-02
20 AIR COMPRESSER VESPA MT-23P
21 GENERATOR PETBOW LTA10-G3
22 BELT LOOP CUTTER M/C ACE C-11
23 METAL DETECTOR M/C PANDORA CE MET 30+
25 WASHING/DYEING M/C
SUT & LIC SINGAOPRE
ASIAN STAR CHINA
26 DIP DYE M/C ASIAN STAR CHINA
27 ACID WASH M/C ASIAN STAR CHINA
28 HYDRO-EXTRACTOR SUT & LIC SINGAOPRE
29 STREAM DRYER
SUT & LIC SINGAOPRE
ASIAN STAR CHINA
30 COLD DRYER ASIAN STAR CHINA
14. Brief Discussion of various Common items of Garments:
• Pullover- A woolen Jersey put on over the Jumper
• Sweater- A knitted jacket usually of wool (poshmi bona jama )
• T-Shirt- Round neck, U-neck, V-neck, Turtles neck (high collar)
• Polo-Shirt- Uses of Ladies & Gents
• Tunic Polo Shirt- Side seam cut under part of a T-shirt
• Tang Top- Woman’s Guernsey
• String- Woman’s smooth & glossy fine or thin tape Guernsey
• Basic/ Simple/ Plain Shirt- Generally we wear those shirts are called Basic/ Simple/
Plain Shirt. There can’t be used another parts in order to making design
• Check/ Stripe/ Print Shirt- Those fabrics contains drawing vertical wise or cross wise
or contains different type of prints. If shirts are made from the above mentioned fabrics,
we called it Check/ Stripe/ Print Shirt.
• Twill Shirt- Generally twill fabrics are a little heavy, diagonal lines are visible on the
fabric surface. Shirts are made from twill fabric is called twill shirt; fabric composition is
made from 100% natural cotton.
• Denim Pants- Normal pants are made from denim fabrics which are called simple denim
long pants
15. • Bermuda- The shorts which end below the knee that is extended below the knee line. It
is made like ¾ pants. This kind of pants is called Bermuda.
• Uniform- When entire employees of an organization wear same shirt, pants, belt, cap,
socks & shoes are called uniform. i.e.
• Vest- Waist coat
• Denim- A coarse (thick) cotton fabric or cloth. (F.de Nimes in France)
• Jacket- Jacket is mainly of two kinds; Padding jacket & non padding jacket. Padding
jackets having three parts- Shell parts, Padding parts & Lining parts.
16. Mainly 3 types of Inspection:
• Pre-production Inspection
• In Line Inspection/ In-production Inspection
• Pre-shipment Inspection
Order Follow Up: (with buyer, supplier & factory)
17. • Study order specification/ details
• Monitoring of contract
• Monitoring import procedures
• Arrival of purchased materials
• Factory production
• Coordinating with Buying house/ Agents
• Logistical and distribution arrangements
• Financial Transactions
CATEGORIOUS:
Textile - An introduction
Textile is a type of material composed of natural or synthetic fibers. Types of textiles include
animal-based material such as wool or silk, plant-based material such as linen and cotton, and
synthetic material such as polyester and rayon. Textiles are often associated with the production
of clothing.
Textile Fiber
Fiber is the fundamental component required for making textile yarns and fabrics. There are two
types - natural and synthetic. Natural fibers come from animals (sheep, goats, camelids, etc.) or
vegetable-based fibers (cotton, flax, linen, and other plant fibers). Mineral fibers (asbestos, etc)
are also classified as natural fiber. Synthetic fibers are man-made and manufactured from
synthetic chemicals – (byproducts of the petrochemical industries) – nylon, polyester, acetates.
The characteristics of fibers directly affect the properties of the fabric it is woven into.
The history of fibers is as old as human civilization. Traces of natural fibers have been located to
ancient civilizations all over the gobe. For many thousand years, the usage of fiber was limited
by natural fibers such as flax, cotton, silk, wool and plant fibers for different applications.
Fibers can be divided into natural fibers and man-made or chemical fibers. Flax is considered to
be the oldest and the most used natural fiber since ancient times.
A unit of matter which is capable of being spun into a yarn or made into a fabric by bonding or
by interlacing in a variety of methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, twisting, or
webbing, and which is the basic structural element of textile products.
It is a smallest textile component which is microscopic hair like substance that may be manmade
or natural.
They have length at least hundred times to that of their diameter or width.
Textile Yarns
Yarns are continuous strands of fibers that can be woven or knitted into fabrics. Natural staple
18. fibers usually require processes such as spinning to make yarns. Silk yarn, extracted from silk
cocoon is continuous filament yarns. Most of the synthetic yarns also do not require the
additional processes of spinning.
Yarn Spinning
Yarn spinning is the process of manufacturing yarn from different types of fibers into a
continuous length from one or more type of fibers. Spinning is the most important and the initial
step in fabric manufacturing. The major goals of spinning is to produce the quality yarn from raw
material, then remove the process faults followed by winding the short length bobbins on Cones.
There are different types of spinning, the most commonly forms of spinning are: Ring, Rotor, Air
Jet, and Friction etc.
Fabric Formation
The major methods for fabric manufacture are weaving and knitting. Weaving, or interlacing
yarns, is the most common process used to create fabrics.
Fabric Weaving
The weaving is a process of formation of fabric with interlacement of two or more sets of yarns
using a stable machine called loom. Human beings have started using the woven fabrics since the
drawn of history. If we exclude the Stone Age period, the history of civilization is also, to some
extent, the history of weaving. Though primitive civilizations used coarser threads to make
fabrics which were crude and coarse, there are references of fine fabrics made from filament of
silk in China.
Knitting
Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth. Knitting consists of
consecutive loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an
existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through
them. Basically there are two types of knitting which are weft knitting, versus wrap knitting and
another type is flat knitting versus circular knitting.
19. Knitting
Knitting is the most common method of inter-looping and is second only to weaving as a method
of manufacturing textile products. It is estimated that over 7 million tons of knitted goods are
produced annually throughout the world. Although the unique capability of knitting to
manufacture shaped and form-fitting articles has been utilized for centuries, modern technology
has enabled knitted constructions in shaped and unshaped fabric form to expand into a wide
range of apparel, domes- tic and industrial end-uses.
Types of knitting
there are 2 types of knitting. One is Circular knitting (Tubular knit). Another is Flat knitting.
Circular knit is used to knit body fabrics. Flat knit is used to knit Collars & Cuffs.
There is another type of flat knit machines which are used to make Sweaters (Tricot garments).
With these machines, the body fabrics, sleeves and necks are being made. And they are joining
together with the help of linking machines. We have to note that the attachments of these parts
are done with the main yarns. No separate sewing threads are used for joining. Buyers use to call
these garments as Knitted garments or Tricot garments or Sweaters. Mostly acrylic and wool
yarns are used. Lower counts like 2’s, 4’s, 6’s, etc are used.
T shirts, polo shirts are also called knitted garments. As the body, sleeves, collars, cuffs are cut
separately and joined together, some buyers use to call these garments as ‘Cut & Sewn
Garments’.
There are 2 things making the knit fabric. They are Wales and Course. Wales is the vertical yarn.
Course is the horizontal yarn.
Wales’s lines are fixed by the machine gauge. This cannot be changed. Coarse lines can be
altered by adjusting in the machine. This is called Texture.
Costing
Costing is the system of computing cost of production or of running a business, by allocating
expenditure to various stages of production or to different operations of a firm. Costing is the
deciding factor of the prices and the important thing to be followed in all important stages like
purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. The cost calculation in the textile industry is still
almost exclusively based on the production cost data.
Dispatch
Dispatching is the process of delivering the products to the customers using various modes of
transport such as road, rail, air and sea.
READING THE WASH CARE INSTRUCTIONS-
20. Wash and rinse on a reduced synthetic cycle and a short spin at indicated temperature
Wash and rinse on a reduced wool cycle and a short spin at indicated temperature
Do not wash
Hand wash only at maximum temperature of 40 Degree C
Do not bleach
Use only non-chlorine bleach
Iron on low heat maximum 110Degree C
Iron on medium heat maximum 150Degree C
Do not iron
Articles are not suitable for dry cleaning
Delicate dry clean
Specialist dry clean in hydrocarbon solvent
Do not tumble dry
Tumble dry cool
O STAY NEW LONG LASTING, FADE RESISTANT AND RESISTS PILING
There are below some Sweater factories address