Andorra, primarily known as a ski resort, is rich in archaeological heritage, featuring prehistoric artifacts from various periods, including rock carvings and a dense collection of romanesque churches. Significant sites include the 11th century church of Sant Joan de Caselles and the 12th century church of St Roma les Bons, alongside evidence of historical settlements and resource harvesting in the Madriu-Perafita-Claror Valley. Access to Andorra is straightforward via road, with the national language being Catalan and the currency in use being the Euro.

1. 56 Issue 51CurrentWorldArchaeology
A
ndorra is better known as an inexpensive ski-resort
butthetinylandlockedprincipalityischockfullwith
archaeology, its rich cultural heritage waiting to be
explored. Just 450km², Andorra nestles in the heart
of the Pyrenees, bordered by the Languedoc region
of France and Spanish Catalunya. So why, given its prime location,
has it slipped under most people’s archaeological radar?
Excavations have revealed a wealth of prehistoric artefacts:
the rock shelter La Balma de la Margineda, excavated 1979-1991,
revealed evidence of multi-period occupation from the Mesolithic
and Neolithic periods right through to the historic era. Bronze
Age brooches, arrow heads, bracelets, Iron Age Iberian type coins,
and early burials are found throughout Andorra. Neolithic cists
of La Feixa del Moro at Juberri near the southern border have
produced a series of finely polished axeheads, ceramics, bracelets
carved from varascite mined at Gava (Catalunya), and a host of
lithics – all equal in quality to any in the Pyrenean region and
soon, hopefully, to be displayed as part of a national collection in
a new museum setting.
ANDORRA
TRAVELS to
Then there are the rock carvings. Most are found along Andorra’s
two principal valleys, and date to the Medieval period - though
many are earlier, including Neolithic. For my money, the most
interesting carving is near Canillo at El Roc de les Bruixes (The Rock
of the Witches): amongst the inscribed crosses and human figures
are pentagrams and the vestiges of carved script. A visitor to the
little village of Sornas, near Ordino, however, was rewarded with a
series of anthropomorphised crosses that have been carved into a
rock-face; though perhaps the most curious are the cryptographic
graffiti at St Cerni de Nagol, near St Julia in the south of Andorra.
And there is more: the attractive Romanesque churches serving
communities across the mountains and valleys of Andorra form
one of the densest surviving clusters of Romanesque ecclesiastical
architecture. As the Gothic style failed to take root in Andorra, the
Romanesque tradition enjoyed greater longevity, and today about
40 churches span several centuries of stylistic evolution.
Possibly the most cherished is Our Lady of Meritxell, dedicated
to the patron saint of Andorra. According to local legend, a wild
rose, in bloom out of season, was found growing out from under a
left The Sorteny National Park in
Winter: walking is not advised!
below Andorra’s highest peak -
2,943m above sea level – is found at
the Como Pedrosa National Park.

2. www.world-archaeology.com 57CurrentWorldArchaeology
statue of the Virgin and Child at this spot in the late 12th century.
Each time the statue was moved, it found its way back to the wild
rose. So, a chapel was built here to accommodate the miraculous
statue, and which became the focus of annual pilgrimages each
September. Sadly, in 1972, the original Romanesque chapel burned
to the ground and the statue was destroyed and today a distinctly
modern, yet still attractive, church stands on its footprint.
Also worth visiting are the 11th century St Joan de Caselles in
Canillo, with its Lombard style bell-tower and murals; and the 12th
century St Miquel d'Engolasters, with its 17m bell tower sporting,
unusually, a carved human face on one of the uppermost sides.
One of my favourites is the tiny St Romà de les Bon in Encamp, a
FRANCE
TRAVELandorra
FURTHER INFORMATION
details: The churches are open in July and August with guides, and by
appointment at other times.
Andorra has no airport or railway station but is easily accessible by road.
Regular buses run between the capital La Vella and airports at Toulouse,
Girona, and (most frequently) Barcelona. No visas required.
The national language is Catalan but Spanish and some French are spoken.
Currency is the Euro.
Website: www.andorra.ad
TheauthorthanksAlbertEsteve(MinisterofCulture),archaeologistsAlexVidal
andGerardRemolins,JudyHill,andLauraFrigolafortheirhelp.
12th century church with stunning interior wall paintings that
depict the apocalyptic visions of St John; beside it lie the remains of
a 13th century defence tower, the only one in Andorra.
Before you leave, for a fascinating insight into in Andorra’s
everyday past, be sure to visit three 17th century houses that are now
museums: the Areny-Plandolit house, Casa Rull, and Casa Christo.
Martin Locker, a frequent visitor to Andorra, is writing his doctorate on
Medieval pilgrimages at the Institute of Archaeology, UCL.
Madriu-Perafita-Claror valley
The Madriu-Perafita-Claror valley is described by UNESCO as a
‘microcosmic perspective of the way people have harvested the resources
of the high Pyrenees over millennia. Archaeological evidence of Medieval
summer settlement, field terracing, and iron smelting have been
uncovered. The remains of shepherd’s huts, sheep pens, dry-stone walls
and charcoal-making sites are still visible in the valley floor and woodland.

above A view from the Sorteny
National Park in northern Andorra.
left The 11th century Romanesque
church of Sant Miquel d'Engolasters –
note the carved head below the roof
of the tower.
below The 12th century
Romanesque church at St Roma les
Bons, Encamp.
SPAIN