A marketing strategy dedicated to amateurs or a definition of the relation between brands and amateurs in the luxury sector

1. 1
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
A marketing strategy for
amateurs
Julie NORCIA GARNIER
October 2014
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
1

2. 2
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
Interviewed brands – 30 interviews

3. Love
Practice
AMATEUR
3
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
3 pilars to define the amateurs
Know Share

4. Clubs
Schools
workshops
Co-creation
Love
Practice
AMATEUR
4
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
Places to get to the amateurs
Know Share
Forums
Discussions
Boutiques
Blogs
Press
Catalogues
Exhibitions
References

5. How mature are luxury sectors with the amateurs?
5
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
MATURE
MATURING
IMMATURE
WINE
SPIRITS
WATCH
MAKING
HIGH
JEWELRY
HAUTE
COUTURE
HOME
DESIGN
FASHION
JEWELRY
MENSWEAR
CHILDRENSWEAR
WOMENSWEAR
NICHE
PERFUMES
BRANDED
PERFUMES

6. 6
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Wine and spirits
Love
• Numerous wine tasting
clubs, involved in all
kinds of wines and
origins, very strong
amateur behavior on
nature wines, corporate
clubs
• Numerous oenology
schools / classes, with
very diverse
interaction types, from
very easy-going to very
technical
• Oenotourism under
development
Know
• Many blogs, some origin-specific,
written by
French and international
contributors (Jancis
Robinson, Miss Glouglou,
Vicky Wine, Jacques
Berthomeau, No Wine Is
Innocent, Jim Budd, etc.)
• Print: key information
source, from mass
audience (Revue des Vins
de France) to very
selective (le Rouge et le
Blanc)
• Importance of catalogs
• Exhibitions: “Cité des
civilisations du vin”
under construction
• Guides: Parker guide as
ultimate reference
• Other references:
designation of origin
(AOC), organic labels,
grape plants origins
Share
• Forums: open to
discussion, many
comments
• Retail: wide
distribution range,
supermarkets,
independent wine
merchants, internet,
winery sales,
systematic product
tasting
• Community presentation
with brands like Krug
(Kruglovers)
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

7. 7
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Haute Couture
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Clients passion for the
products and creation in
itself
• Passion practiced in
outfits’ “co-creation”
with the designer and/or
the studio, in a
confidential manner and
privately
Know
• Product knowledge coming
from social / cultural
background
• In case there is no
previous knowledge, a
freelance plays a
mediation role,
explaining each brands in
confidence
• Knowledge of context
adequate for product wear
• Products presentation
during Fashion Week or in
private presentation
• No specialized print but
extensive web research
and time dedicated to
field knowledge
• Easy-to-understand
market, as brands
proposing the product are
rare
Share
• Within the closed circle
of the 200 haute couture
clients
• Dedicated fitting space,
allowing necessary
discretion and self-segregation
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

8. 8
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… High jewelry
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Co-creation in
collaboration with the
brands with a dedicated
salesperson support,
like in haute couture
• A school dedicated to
jewelry getting
recognition, “l’Ecole”
from Van Cleef &
Arpels, the only one in
the sector
Know
• Many blogs, often with
a fashion angle but in
more details and more
objective
• Mainly women’s press
• Clients with a familial
or cultural references
• Catalogues: printed by
the brands,
international sales
supports
• More and more
exhibitions, either
from the brand (Cartier
20013-2014) or from the
sector (Biennale de
Paris)
• References: gemology
and in-house
innovations (ex: VCA’s
serti mystérieux)
Share
• Very detailed brands
websites, comments on
blogs, brands
presentations and not
so much advertising
highlights
• Boutiques: specific
welcome for the
clients, “educated”
when they come from
“new” wealth
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

9. 9
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Watch making
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Co-creation in high
watchmaking
• Many collectors,
investment value of
watches, specialized
investment funds
• VIP diners moderated
by brands
• “l’Ecole” from VCA
teaches watchmaking,
also other classes
for amateurs
(Objectif Horlogerie)
in France, in
Switzerland
(fondation de la
Haute Horlogerie)
Know
• Many blogs, very
detailed
• Press explaining the
products in detail,
in general, business
and menswear press
• Many videos on the
web explain brands,
products,
complications
• Brands catalogues
with details
• Some exhibitions,
mostly about brands
• References:
complications
knowledge, common
vocabulary
Share
• Very technical
subjects on forums,
in a very passionate
tone, by passion type
(technology, vintage,
design), many
discussions and
recurring visitors
• Boutiques: often
presence of a
watchmaker in store,
giving additional
information on top of
the salesperson’s
speech
• Less sharing in
women’s watches
market
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

10. 10
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Niche perfumes
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Many classes and
conferences: Osmothèque
in Versailles,
“Parfumeurs Amateurs”
• Many brand
presentations on
history and work
(Fragonard, Annick
Goutal, etc.)
• Made-to-order offer at
niche perfume makers
• Key role of the
perfumer or “nez” at
brands, perfumes
edition at Frederic
Malle
Know
• Enthusiastic bloggers
• Women’s press helped
emerge niche perfumes
because it was so bored
because of the sector’s
monotony
• No catalogues
• Exhibitions in Paris and
Grasse in particular
• Rather vague references:
little knowledge of raw
materials, debate between
natural and artificial
ingredients
• Confusion between niche
perfumes and branded
perfumes in some brands
like Gerlain
• Explanation in the
corporate federation
(Fragrance Foundation)
Share
• Critic forums like
AuParfum
• Boutiques: training
from sales force to the
perfume knowledge,
innovating instruments
to smell the perfumes,
coming from a
professional background
(Frederic Malle’s
cabins), conventional
distribution enhancing
niche perfumes (La
Belle Parfumerie at
Printemps department
store)
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

11. 11
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Menswear and childrenswear
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Shoe Polish nights
(Berluti), a men’s
fashion and self-segregation
moment
• Many brands propose
made-to-order, even
on a large scale
(Samson)
• For childrenswear,
sewing practice is
common
• Classes available for
basic sewing
techniques, mainly
for childrenswear
Know
• Many blogs, strong
image of the dandy in
menswear, mummies
active customers in
childrenswear
purchase
• Very knowledgeable
press tone, ready to
conduct many product
tests, giving its
opinion on the
products
• Some key pieces of
the male wardrobe are
a reference, like the
shirt’s collar, the
fabrics’ choice for
suits
• Many small brands,
requiring a customer
knowledge
Share
• Forums are active on
men accessories,
alike the watches
forums
• Forums are active on
childrenswear, in
particular on the
second hand market
• Boutiques:
interaction with the
clients on the
amateurs tone, in
particular on the
shoe, suit, shirt
market in menswear
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

12. 12
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Jewelry
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Schools: at Baccarat,
“Pole Bijou” teaches
the base technical
skills and collection
management, other
workshops at Paris-
Ateliers
• Increasing consumers
make their own jewels
thanks to tutorials
and small
haberdashery
• Dynamism of creation
with many new niche
brand
Know
• Many tutorials on
YouTube
• Many blogs to present
creations, make the
most of the dynamic
trends on creative
leisure activities
• Mainly women’s press
• No references, very
light in comparison
to high jewelry
• Many new small brands
emerge, between
“auto-entrepreneurs”
and craftsmanship,
with a knowledgeable
clientele
Share
• Very active forums
with mutual help for
jewels homemade like
BijouxALaCheville
• Boutiques: often very
small but with sales
passionate by the
activity, many sales
on temporary stores
and markets
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

13. 13
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Home design
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Increasing interest on
programs and courses
about home, design and
creative leisure
activities
• Fine line between
design, home,
decoration, practice
goes with DIY, flea
markets and garage
sales
• Some amateur workshops
with design school like
Orléans (École
Supérieure d’Art et de
Design), often with
traditional visual arts
• Many companies propose
to create own products
or at least to have
them personalized
Know
• Passionate bloggers
• Very precise and
explanatory specialized
press, with a large
spectrum, from mass to
highly specialized
• Many TV programs on
decoration
• Very detailed
catalogues
• Many exhibitions with
contemporary or
historical artists
• General public events:
D’Days, Paris Design
Week
• References: historical
emblematic designers
enhanced by design
editors
Share
• Many comments on blogs
(ex : Esprit Design)
• In design editors
store, salesperson are
passionate by design,
even if the field is
relatively difficult to
nail at first glance
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

14. 14
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Branded perfumes
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• Product is bought
because of the brand
and not because of
its composition, as a
translation of the
brand’s imaginary
• Olfactory workshop
look down to branded
perfume brands versus
niche perfumes, as a
revenge from
perfumers
• Some brands propose
limited editions to
capture the emerging
niche perfume market,
as they see its
growth
Know
• Sales and information
are mainly provided
by large retailers e-stores
like Sephora.
They do not value the
product’s composition
• Blogs are not really
interested in these
perfumes
• Women’s press
recommend mainly
advisers
• A few exhibitions on
emblematic perfumes
but not on the latest
launches
• Reference: as the
formulas cannot be
protected, the
minimum details on
composition is given
Share
• Little precise
information and
discussion on
products
• Boutiques: existing
distribution networks
do not develop
salespeople with
enough knowledge on
product and
purchasing advise
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

15. 15
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
In details… Womenswear
Maturity with regards to the amateurs
Love
• The client has lost
knowledge of product,
fabrics, cuts and
colors
• Except in the case of
wedding or bespoke
dresses, the client
would not research
much the product and
co-create with a
designer, or very
limitedly
Know
• Very rare amateur blogs
• Women’s press dependent
on their advertisers in
their recommendations
• Catalogues speak about
trends and style and
not product
• Exhibitions on
designers and their
inspiration, rarely on
product
• References: imprecise
labeling on origins,
lack of knowledge of
compositions
• Brands communicate only
on trends
Share
• Most blogs are
egocentric (Garance
Doré, le Blog de
Betty) or brands fan,
financed by brands
sponsoring
• Boutiques: strong
turnover, inadequate
training of
salespeople to
product technical
side, unaware
clientele, except for
sector experts or
journalists
Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia

16. 16
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
Opportunity for the brands
Strengths
• In-house workshops, respected
artisans
• Appropriate clientele access, with
financial capabilities to buy
bespoke /made to order, available for
workshop attendance
Weaknesses
• Instinctive suspicion from brands
towards internet or any new
consumption style
• Brands are slow to adapt to customers
at their rapid changing pace
Opportunities
• Satisfy the demand from luxury
clients that are looking for new
products, new experience
• Development of the experience luxury
Threats
• The amateurs are subversive in
essence, they tend to reverse the
established order and any new order
that the brands would try to set up
• The brands can influence the
judgement systems but they have to
subtly do it
Source: analysis Julie Norcia

17. Propose bespoke / made to order, value products composition,
link between products (collections, re-issue);
Singularize the price with promoting creativity
Control distribution, transform point of sales into
experience place, allow practice, and also segregate point of
sales depending on client kind
Transform sales force into amateurs, inform on point of sales
and online on products and use, use CRM to identity amateurs
and nurture them;
Develop practice with a school or workshops, use social
networks to make people dream, meet with amateurs in
exhibitions or fairs with a specific approach on products and
know how
Use advertising to dream with unattainable aesthetics yet
explained products
17
A marketing strategy for amateurs
Julie Norcia-Garnier
Julie.norcia@gmail.com
Copyright © 2014
Marketing of the amateurs
Product
Price
Place
Sales
Communication
Advertising
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2
3
4
5
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Source: interviews, research Julie Norcia