Natural Fiber Wool (Sahabul)

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Md. Sahabul Islam
Research Assistant of
Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan
Pro-vice Chancellor
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Pro-vice Chancellor
Made By
Most of Raw Information collected
from (classes, sheets, books)

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WOOL FIBER (CON.)
Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and other animals, including cashmere
and mohair from goats, qiviut from muskoxen, angora from rabbits, and other types
of wool from camelids. Wool mainly consists of protein together with a few percent
lipids.Wool protein is called keratin.
A peptide bond is a chemical bond formed between two molecules
when the carboxyl group of one molecule reacts with the amino
group of the other molecule, releasing a molecule of water (H2O).
B
U
F
T

Feature
Warmth
Damaged by both acid and alkali
Resiliency
Felting
Producing Countries:
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Manufacturing Process
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Sheep
Wool comes from sheep. They grow a wool
coat and once a year this wool coat is sheared
off the animal. This is frequently done in the
early spring shortly before they have their
lambs. A shorn ewe will be more likely to stay
out of the wind and bad weather and protect
her new-born lamb if she does not have a
thick wool coat on her.
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Fleece
The shorn wool coat is called a fleece. It is
also called "grease wool" because of all the
oil and lanolin in the wool. This fleece must
be cleaned before it can be processed into
wool yarn. There is much vegetable matter,
manure and natural oil that must be
removed. Sometimes as much as 50% of the
weight of the fleece is not wool.
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Md. Sahabul Islam
Pro-vice Chancellor
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Skirting a fleece
The wool from the back end of the sheep, their legs and
sometimes their belly is too full of manure to use. These are
referred to as "tags". These are removed first before washing
the fleece; this process is called skirting, as all the edges of the
wool coat are removed.
Sorting:
The fleeces are also sorted into the various types by skill
worker according to fine from coarse, short from long and
black and white.
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Cleaning and Scouring
Wool taken directly from the
sheep is called "raw" or "grease
wool". It contains sand, dirt,
grease and dried sweat (called
suint). The weight of
contaminants accounts for about
30 to 70 percent of the fleece's
total weight. To remove these
contaminants, the wool is
scoured in a series of alkaline
baths containing water, soap
and soda ash or a similar alkali.
Rollers in the scouring machines
squeeze excess water from the
fleece, but fleece is not allowed
to dry completely.
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Carbonizing
Carbonizing is done to remove the
cellulosic impurities from wool by
treatment with acid or acid producing
salts. Carbonizing may be carried out in
loose wool or on piece goods after
scouring. The process begins by
immersing the wool in a solution of
sulfuric acid (H2SO4) that reacts with the
cellulose impurities in the wool.
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Drying
After scouring and carbonizing of wool, it is necessary to dry it
before passing it to the next manufacturing process.
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Blending
Blending refers to the process of combining small amounts of
the same fiber taken from different lots to achieve a uniform
result. Blending of wool is done to combine fibers of different
origins, length, thickness or color to make yarn.
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Carding
The wool fibers are then put through a series of
combing steps called carding. It is done with
machine driven drums covered with "card cloth"
which combs the wool many times by
transferring it back and forth from one drum to
the other as it is passed down the series of
drums. We have "woolen" cards which produce a
wool web with the fibers coming off in random
alignment. This is in contrast to "worsted"
combing that lines up all the fibers.
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Roving
The final step in the carding process
divides the web into small strips
called pencil roving. These are
collected on large spools on the end
of the card. These spools of pencil
roving will be placed on the spinning
frame to make yarn.
The roving as it comes off the card
has no twist. It is held together by
the oil and natural hooks that exist
on the surface of the wool fibers. The
spinning frame will put the actual
twist on the roving and turn it into
yarn. This is collected on wooden
bobbins.
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Wind and/or Skeining
When the wooden bobbins are
full of yarn, they are placed on a
cone winder and the yarn is
transferred to paper cones for
use in weaving and knitting
machines. It could also be put
into skeins of yarn which are the
form that knitters like to use.
Weaving
The wool yarn is woven into fabric. Wool manufacturers use two basic weaves: the plain weave and the twill.
Woolen yarns are made into fabric using a plain weave (rarely a twill), which produces a fabric of a somewhat looser
weave and a soft surface (due to napping) with little or no luster. The napping often conceals flaws in construction.
Worsted yarns can create fine fabrics with exquisite patterns using a twill weave. The result is a more tightly
woven, smooth fabric. Better constructed, worsteds are more durable than woolens and therefore more costly.
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Manufacturing Process of Wool
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Manufacturing Process of Wool
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• A simplified representation of the wool felting process.
Felting of Wool
Felting of wool is the irreversible
shrinkage of the length, breadth and/or
thickness of the material. It is achieved
by subjecting the wool textile material
to agitation in an aqueous solution.
Whilst it is often an intended process,
nevertheless, when it is not, the
tendency for wool to felt is a
disadvantage of untreated woolen
articles of clothing that require
frequent laundering.
When a wet, untreated wool textile
material is agitated, as during
laundering, the wool fibers tend to
move in a root ward direction. In actual
fact, the root end of the fiber curls
upon itself, causing a mass of entangled
fibers.
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Felting of Wool (con.)
At step 1, the fiber is in its original position. At steps 2-6, the fiber curls at
the root end, drawing up the tip end. Note that the fiber does not move
much outside of its distance.
Courtesy of reference.
Felting of wool is significantly enhanced by heat, acid or alkali. Heat will
make the wet fiber more elastic and plastic, easier and more likely to move,
and to distort and entangle itself with other fibers. Heat will also cause the
fiber to swell more and this effect is enhanced in acidic or alkali conditions.
Increased swelling results in more inter-fiber contact and increased inter-
fiber friction.
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Fig. hydrogen bonding between polymer chains in a protein fiber wool.
The wool polymer is linear keratin
polymer with very short side group
and it normally has a helical
configuration. A wool polymer is
about 140 nm long and 1 nm thick ,
25-30 % crystalline . It has peptide
bond (-CO-NH-),H-bond , cystine
linkage (Disulphide bond).
Polymer System:

where R5 = groups linking other chains,
R6 = alkyl, amino or side chain groups such as found in proline
and tyrosine,
and
R7 = short chain linkage groups.
CONT.
The fiber structure is made of several
layers of different types of keratin cells.
There is an outer layer with three
subdivisions, the cortex with its cortical
cells, and the medulla or core. The outer
layer, containing overlapping scales, gives
wool its remarkable fibrous surface
appearance. This scaly outer layer is
composed of keratin, whereas keratin C
contains tyrosine and exists mostly in the
interior of the fiber. The polypeptides
comprising wool fiber are long peptide
chains which are bridged by cysteine and
salt linkage, the chemical structure of
wool can generally be presented as fig.
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Keratin---------- 33%
Dust------------- 26%
Suit-------------- 28%
Fat--------------- 12%
Mineral metter----- 1%
Chemical Composition
Carbon------- 50.3-52.5%
Hydrogen ----- 6.4-7.3%
Nitrogen-------- 16.2-17.7%
Oxygen---------- 20.7-%
Sulpher ---------- 1%
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Amino Acid in Wool Keratin
Glycine----- 6.5%
Alamine---- 4.4 %
Valine------ 4.7 %
Luecone---- 11.2 %
Serine------ 7.5 %
Cystine---- 13.1 %
Phebylalanine— 4.0 %
Tyrosine---- 4.5 %
Aspartic acid---- 7. 8 %
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Md. Sahabul Islam
Pro-vice Chancellor
Pro-vice Chancellor
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Classification of Wool
•Different Types of Wool :
•Fine wool
•Medium Wool.
•Long breeds wool
•Cross breeds wool
•Carpet woo Classification of Wool By :
Classification of wool by sheep:
•Marino wool ( First Class wool )
•Class two wool
•Class three wool
•Class four Wool
Classification of Wool By flees :
1.Normal wool.--------------- ( 6 to 8 years of sheep )
2.Hagget wool ----------------( 12 to 14 years of sheep)
3.Pulled wool -----------------( 15-16 years of sheep)
4.Cotty wool ------------------( very low quality sheep)
5.Tag lock wool --------------( Discolor sheep )
6.Dead wool ----------------- ( Nearly dead sheep)
7.Weather wool --------------( Collecting after one collection)
Type Breds Length(inch)
Fine American merino
Ram Bouillet
Australia Merino
1.5– 2
2.5—3.5
3--5
Medium England down
Corriedale
2-4
3-7
Coarse Romny
Blackface high land
Cots world
5-6
6-8
10-11
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Physical Properties:
• Strength:
1. Wool is the weakest of the natural textile fibers.
2. Wool fiber is strengthened by the used of ply yarns.
3. A hard twisted two ply yarn may be regarded as an assurance of durability.
4. Tightly twisted single yarns also make a strong fabric.
• Elasticity:
1. Depending upon the quality of wool, the fiber may be stretched from 25-30 percent of its
natural length
2.This characteristic reduces the danger of tearing under tension.
3. This characteristic contributes to the free body movements.
4. The chemical treatment also gives better shape retention.
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Cont.
• Resilience:
1. Wool fiber has a high degree of resilience.
2. Good quality wool is soft & resilient
3.Poor quality wool gives a harsh feeling.4.Due to the high degree of resiliency, wool
fabric wrinkles less than some others.
• Effect of Heat:
1. Wool becomes harsh at 100˚C & begins to decompose at slightly higher temperature.
2. It has plastic quality which helps to have shape at melting temperature.
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Chemical Properties:
Wool is a protein fiber and it has some chemical properties. Chemical Properties of the wool
fiber is given below:
• Effects of Acids:
Wool is attacked by hot concentrated sulphuric acid and decomposes
completely. It is in general resistant to mineral acids of all strength
even at high temperature though nitric acids tend to cause damage by oxidation.
• Effects of Alkalis:
The chemical nature of wool keratin is such that it is particularly sensitive to alkaline
substances. Wool will dissolve in caustic soda solutions that would have little effects on
cotton. Strong alkaline affect on wool fiber but weak alkaline does not affect wool.
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Cont.
• Effects of Organic Solvent: Wool does not affect in organic
solvents.
• Effects of Insects: Wool affected by insects.
• Effects of Micro Organism: It affected by mildew if it remains
wet for long time.
• Dyeing ability: Wool fiber could be dyed by basic dye, direct dye
and acid dye.
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Md. Sahabul Islam
Pro-vice Chancellor
Pro-vice Chancellor
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Impurities Present in Raw Wool
The proportions of the different components of unwashed or greasy wool
are:
Moisture = 4 – 24 %
Yolk = 12 – 22 %
Dirt = 3 – 9 %
Wool Fibers = 60 – 70 %
Raw wool contains three main impurities
Wool grease
Suint
Dirt
These combined make up some 30-40% of the fleece weight. A typical
figure of the grease content of crossbred wool is about 6%.
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Wool Grease
This is a very complex mixture, consisting mostly of esters of various long-chain fatty acids
with long-chain alcohols and sterols. Technically it is a wax, rather than a fat, because
glycerol esters are not present.
Suint
Suint is the sweat of the sheep and is a complex mixture of water-soluble salts. The
predominant cat-ion is potassium; the an-ions include carbonate, bicarbonate,
various low molecular weight mono- and di-carboxylic acids (succinic, glycolic,
glutaric etc.) and smaller amounts of long chain fatty acid anions which may
originate from wool grease. Peptides and other nitrogenous substances are minor
components.
Dirt
Dirt consists of all the ill-defined solid fleece contaminants. It includes mineral
soil, windblown dust, vegetable matter, faecal matter (dags), skin flakes,
discarded cuticle cells, and fragments of fiber broken from brittle photo-
oxidized tips. In many respects, in terms of wool properties, it is the very fine
mineral material, largely associated with exposed fiber tips, that is the most
significant.
Impurities are
removed by
scouring and
Carbonization
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Woolen Products
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Carpets
Wool is very resilient and its texture allows it
to very quickly recover from crushing or
indenting caused by footsteps or furniture.
This keeps the rug looking new and fresh for
longer periods of time.
Wool has a natural ability to resist staining
and soiling, a 30% higher rate of stain
resistance than even the best synthetic
fibers.
This is because of the natural light lanolin
that coats the surface of the wool. This
coating helps stop dirt and stains from
actually penetrating the wool leaving any
soiling on or near the surface. That’s why
spills on wool is very easy to clean.
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Insulating products
Woolen covers are made for
appliances, because of the
durability, water and flame
resistance.
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Md. Sahabul Islam
Pro-vice Chancellor
Pro-vice Chancellor
Made By

Natural Fiber Wool (Sahabul)

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