Class lecture for M.A Sem II Panjab University Chandigarh owning to closure of classes due to Covid-19.

1. Dr. Priyatosh Sharma,
Associate Professor,
Panjab University, chandigarh

2. Rise of Urban
Centres both as
Administrative
Units (iqta
headquarters)
And
Industrial Units
(kasabkari i.e
Craft and
Manufacturing
Movement of
Artisans and
other section
into the urban
Centre (both as
immigrants
and captured
slaves i.e
banda)
Rising
demand of
textile both
within the
country and
abroad
owning to the
emergence of
new zones of
consumption

3. Changes in
Agriculture
Improvement in
irrigation techniques
(noria, saqiya and
Persian wheel)
Persian Wheel
Saqiya
noria

4.  Two Varieties
Agriculture
Commercial
crops
cotton Indigo
Mahmud of Ghazna
took royalty of 20,000
maunds of indigo from
his vassal states in India
(H.K Naqvi, p.28)
Sembhal
(gosaypium
aberasum)
For
bedding
and heavy
clothing
Herbaceous
Gossypium
herbaceous)
fabris

5. Manpower
in textile
productio
n
Immigrants specialized
in textile production
Prisoner captured from the
country side
(the market prices of Alauddin
Khalji (1296-1316 CE) have
different prices from the skilled
and unskilled slaves)Rural and Urban sections
(in rural set up, the resting period
between cultivation provided time
for the peasants to involve in the
craft production

6. Tools and
Technique
I
Raw Cotton (cleaned of
seeds) was sent to ginner
to clean it further on Shaf-
shah and a fleece (gala)
and sent to spinners
2
Spinners
done on duk
(spindle) or
Charkha
(recorded by
Amir
Khusrau and
Isami)
3
Spun yarn sent to
waevers (kargah) who
worked on it and used
pahna kash stretching
and tigtehing the cloth
4
Belachers
(sajhas)
who wroked
with
kadinah I
gazur
(wodden
mallet)

7. Dyeing
process
Sabungars
(soap
making for
cleaning)
Nilgars
(indigo
dying )
Category of
wavers
Tanindah,
hayak,
parchahbaf,
bafindah/jula
ha
Paibaf was
distinct as he
moved the arap
and wft by his
feet in the treadle
(paichah)

8. Originated
in central
Asia
It became
very
common
in 16th C
India
Indian
technique of
Bandhani (tie
dying) and
chikan
(embroidery
work)
Use of gold and
silver leaf was
used
And darzi,
sozonagar and
khayyat were the
involved skill
labour in
production
Carpet
Weaving

9. SILK
North kashmir, Little Tibet and Gilgit were prie
place of silk worm .
Eastern bengal also produced silk of inferior
quality i.e nistari, desi, harapalu and chinapalu
Silk worm was also imported from Peesia,
Arabia, Khurasan and China
Delhi, Anhilwara Pattan, Cambay,
Champanir, Ahmedabad as the early centers
of Silk stuff
Dying
agents for
silk were
indigo, lac,
catechu,
flowers of
pista etc

10. Delhi, Agra,
Saharanpur
Banaras,
Allahabad,
Lucknow
Cambay,SuratA
Ahmedabad,
Champaner
Daultabad
calicut., Quilon,
Nagapatinam
Dacca,
Murshidabad,
Satgaon,Hugli
Dipal pur
Ajodhan,
Alwar, Ajmer,
Chittor
Some Important medieval Trading in Textile

11. Submission
Improvement in irrigation
and crop production
Emergence of urban
Centers and movement of
artisan into such centres
Manufacturing of various
varieties of textile ranging
across cotton, silk and wool
Trading Emporium exporting
textiles not only within India
but in foreign destinations also