This presentation may cover all aspects of Textile Industry.

1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY
PREPARED BY: GHULAM MUSTAFA
SSE-CHEMISTRY
GHSS ISLAMIA, JHANG.

2. WHAT IS TEXTILE
INDUSTRY
• Textile is a term that comes
from “textilis” which is a Latin
word, that means “woven fabric”.
• The textile industry is the
industry which involves the
sections like research, design,
development, manufacturing and
distribution of textiles, fabrics
and clothing.

3. HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
There are some indications that weaving was already known in
the Palaeolithic. An indistinct textile impression has been found at Pavlov,
Moravia. Neolithic textiles were found in pile dwellings excavations in
Switzerland and at El Fayum, Egypt at a site which dates to about 5000
BC.
Old Basket Oldest Needle Oldest Fibre Oldest Loom Oldest Fibre Shoes

4. MODREN TRENDS IN INDUSTRY IN ERA OF 1600-
1799
• 1600 - The Modern Spinning Wheel was Made.
• 1738 - Lewis Paul invented Draw Roller.
• 1764 - James Hargreaves made Spinning Jenny.
• 1765 - James made Stocking Frame.
• 1767 - John Kay invented Spinning Frame.
• 1779 - Samuel Crompton made Spinning Mule.
• 1784 - Edmund Cartwright invented Power Loom.
• 1791 - The Englishman Dawson made Warp Knitting Machine.
• 1794 - EliWhitney made Cotton Gin.

5. 19th Century
Developments
Modern Spinning
Wheel
The First Latch
Needle
1813 – William
Improved the
Power Loom
1842 – John
First Sewing
Machine
Circular Knitting Machine 1889 – Northrop
First Automatic
Bobbin Changing
Weaving Loom
1892 – Cross,
Bevan & Beadle
invent Viscose
1881 – Pierre
Tubular Pipe
Compound Needle

6. 20th Century
Developments
1920 -
Geroge
Developed
Looms
1910 – Spiers
Invented the
circular bed
purl knitting
machine
1953 –
DuPont
produced
First
commercial
polyester
fibre
1949 –
Heinrich
discovered
the
sewing-
knitting
technique
1954 –
Fibre
reactive
dye
invented
1963 –
Open-end
spinning
developed in
Czechoslovakia.

7. 21ST CENTURY REPORT AND ANALYSIS ON
TEXTILE
COUNTRY EXPORT
Bangladesh 85.90%
Macau 84.40%
Cambodia 72.50%
Pakistan 72.10%
El Salvador 60.20%
Mauritius 56.60%
Sri Lanka 54.30%
Dominican Republic 50.90%
Nepal 48.70%
Tunisia 42.40%
• According to the reports, Bangladesh
had been the country exporting textile
products and earning most of their
economy as compared to other
countries like pakistan.
• In 2002, textiles and apparel
manufacturing accounted for $400
billion in global exports.
•

8. • Here is the report of export of textile and clothing and its earning in $ millions.
WORLDWIDE 1990 2000 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
WORLDCLOTHI
NG
10435
4
15729
5
19554
1
20265
7 220367 240364 250198
TEXTILE
10812
9
19772
2
26056
9
27680
2 309142 345830 361888
• The clothing trade is growing
at a faster rate.
• The Textile & Clothing trade
has increased; from US$ 212
Billion in 1990 to US $ 612.1
Billion in 2008.
400000
350000
300000
250000
200000
150000
100000
50000
0
345830
309142
260569 276802
197722
108129
Year
0 1990 2000 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008
361888

9. PAKISTAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
• Pakistan has a dynamic, vigorous and export
oriented textile industry that has an
overwhelming impact on economy. Textile is the
largest industrial sector and generates
the country’s highest export earnings of about
58%. It also provides the bulk of
employment (39%) to largely underutilized
workforce, and contributes with 8.5% to GDP.
Nearly all the world-renowned brands are
manufactured in Pakistan which keeps with
high standard of international quality and
competitiveness.

10. • At present, there are 1,221 ginning units, 442 spinning units, 124 large spinning
units and 425 small units which produce textile.
• The Pakistan’s textile sector, in 2011, has registered an impressive growth of 38
percent. This was expected after European Union’s (EU) grant of duty free access
to 75 products from Pakistan and out of which 65 are textile products. The EU
facility is initially for two years, extendable for third year after which Pakistan
would quality for Generalized System of Preferences (GSP) plus status to export
duty free to EU as per revised criteria. Main markets of Pakistani textile are
USA, EU, and Gulf region, UK, Hong Kong, Japan, Korea and Saudi Arabia.
• Pakistan is the 4th largest producer of cotton with the third largest spinning
capacity in Asia after China and India and contributes 5% to the global spinning
capacity.

11. HISTORYOF
TEXTILE
INDUSTRYIN
PAKISTAN
Valika textile
mill was
established in
1953
In 1960’s ,180
units of textile in
Karachi and
Punjab
In 1970, there
were 113 textile
units , 2605
spindles and 30
thousand looms
CEC was
established after
separation of east
Pakistan
PIDC was
established in
1950’s
Textile exports
rose to $10.5
billion by 2007
Textile exports in
1999 were $5.2
billion
In 1996, there
were 440 textile
units

12. TOP PLAYERS IN PAKISTAN
• Chenab Limited
• Fateh Textile Mills
• The National Silk & Rayon Mills Limited
• GulAhmed Textile Mills Limited
• Husein Industeries Limited
• Kohinoor Textile Mills Limited
• Nishat Mills Limited
• Safa Textiles Limited
• The Crescent Textile Mills Limited
• Fazal Textile Mills Limited

13. Current Status of Textile Industry in Pakistan
Textile sector developed in a rapid rate in Pakistan. Thanks to abundance of basic
inputs like cotton, and cheap and skilled labor. Here are some briefs about the
industry’s current status.
Table-01-Textile Setups in Pakistan
Installed
Capacity
Textile units 464
Spindles 10,965,000
Looms
1,716,300
(Million Sq.
Mtrs.)

14. Breakup of Textile Units installed across Pakistan
Areas Textile Units
Punjab 316
Sindh 116
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa 17
Baluchistan 9
Azad Kashmir 6
Total 464
Although there are number of organized or non-organized setups of textile in
Lahore, Karachi, Sialkot, and other main cities, Faisalabad is Pakistan’s textile
centre, even called the Manchester of Asia. There are about 60,000 powers
loom factories in Faisalabad, and the city accounts for half of all textiles in
Pakistan. .

15. Ancillary Textile Industry
The ancillary textile industry
includes cotton spinning, cotton
cloth, cotton yarn, cotton fabric,
fabric processing, home textiles,
towels, hosiery and knitwear, and
readymade garments. These
components are being produced
both in organized large-scale as
well
as in unorganized cottage/small
and medium units.
Production July-Mar (2011-2012 )
Mill Sector 764.480 (Million Sq. Mtrs.)
Non Mill Sector 5,971.650 (Million Sq. Mtrs.)
Total 6,736.130 (Million Sq. Mtrs.)
Cloth Exports
Quantity 1,294.863 (Million Sq. Mtrs.)
Value 1,716.300 (Million US $)
Table-02: Production and Exports of
Clothing sector

16. Annual production
Cotton
26 %
Polyester 30 % Cotton 63 % Polyester 51%
Viscose 7 %
Viscose Others
16 %
5%
Others
2%
Pakistan Global

17. Technical Technical Textile 7 %
Textile 14 %
Textile Growth
Home Textile 17 %
Home Apparel
Textile 58%
28%
Apparel 76 %
Pakistan Global

18. RAW
MATERIALS
COTTO
N
JUTE
SYNTHETIC
FIBRES
FILAMENT
YARN
ARTIFICIAL SILK
WOOL
DYE
S

19. • Cotton: Cotton spinning is perhaps the most important segment in the Pakistan
textile industry with 521 units installed and operational.
• Synthetic fibres: Within synthetic fibres, nylon, polyester, acrylic, and
polyolefin dominate the market. There are currently five major producers of
synthetic fibres in Pakistan, with a total capacity of 636,000 tons per annum.
• Filament yarn: Three types of filament yarn are produced in Pakistan. These are
acetate rayon yarn, polyester filament yarn, and nylon filament yarn. There are
currently about 6 units in the country.
• Artificial Silk: This fibre resembles silk but costs less to produce. There are
about 90,000 looms in the country located mainly
in Karachi, Faisalabad, Gujranwala, and Jalalpur Jattan, as well as some
in FATA.
• Wool: The main products manufactured from wool include woolen yarn, acrylic
yarn, fabrics, shawls, blankets, and carpets.
• Jute: Jute sakes and hessian cloth are primarily used for packing agricultural
products such as grain and rice. The production of jute products was
approximately 100,000 tons in 2009-10.

20. Cotton Growing Area
In Pakistan cotton grown in canal irrigated areas of Punjab and Sindh
provinces. In Punjab province, the Multan division ranks at the top, so far as
the production of cotton is concerned, beside this Bahawalpur, Dera Ghazi
Khan, Faisalabad, Sargodha, Lahore, Gujranwala and Rawalpindi divisions
have the serial number according to production. In these areas American
medium staple cotton is grown, and a small quantity of native
qualities of cotton is allowed to grow for domestic use.

21. Investment Opportunities
Pakistan is the 4th largest cotton producer and 3rd largest cotton
consumer. This sector has been Pakistan’s main export driver for the
last 50 years, and there has been investment of $ 7.5 billion over the
last 10 years. Pakistan has a liberal investment policy and gives equal
treatment to local and foreign investors. All economic sectors are
open to foreign investors and foreign equity up to 100% is allowed.
No Government permissions are required and remittance of capital,
profits, royalty, technical & franchise fee is also permitted. Import of
raw material for export manufacturing is zero- rated.

22. Incentives:
Textile sector of Pakistan always gets a preferential treatment from
Government of Pakistan because its importance to the Pakistani economy.
• Textile manufacturers are encouraged to invest in new and modern
machineries as currently there are no custom duties and taxes on the import
of textile machinery.
• There is Research and Development (R &D) rebate of 6% on export of
textile products.
• The Ministry of Textile Industry has also approved the Technology Up-
gradation Fund (TUF) to improve and enhance the output capacity of the
industrial units across the country. Small-scale units making investment up
to 105,000 3 USD (10 million Pak. Rupee) would be provided 20%
discount on loan, as the government would bear 20% loan shares of the
units fulfilling the set standards.

23. Textile City: Pakistani Government has planned an industrial zone
specifically dedicated to the textile processing and related industry known as
“Textile City” Comprising of a total area of 1250 acres, the estate is located
near Port Qasim Karachi, 6 km from the National Highway. Pakistan Textile
City will offer the textile processing industry the desired state-of-the-art
environment to achieve cost effective high productivity. The facility will
provide uninterrupted power, clean and continuous water supply, natural gas,
effluent treatment and efficient transportation systems. Services will be
streamlined as a one window operation and managed in a highly efficient and
professional manner. Textile City’s location at Port Qasim, a modern port,
will facilitate import/export processing and transportation.

24. Future Outlook
• Future Outlook of the textile industry in Pakistan seems bright as lots of
opportunities are available in the wake of rising world demand for
textiles.
• The rise in demand is estimated at around 2.5 per cent per annum. This
increasing demand itself is a great opportunity for the fourth biggest
cotton producer of the world. There are number of other factors which
can contribute to the growth of industry, for instance, the ban on cotton
import from India has been lifted and spinning Industry would be
allowed to import cotton from India.

25. • In keeping with its resolute determination to realize its vision, the textile
industry of Pakistan is striving to improve its performance. For this reason
Industry is re-investing its earnings in productive assets. There is strong
possibility that textile export of Pakistan might reach $ 25 billion in near
future with an investment of $ 2 billion per annum, resulting in creation of job
opportunities for one million people.

26. PROCESSES IN TEXTILE MANUFACTURING

27. Textile manufacturing begins with the production or harvesting of raw
fibre. After collecting the fibre from resources following steps should
adopted.
5
Garments
4
Complete
Fabric3
Raw
Fabric2
Yarn1
Raw
Material
Spinning:
Weaving & Knitting:
Ginning:
Dying and Finishing
Strings of fibers are produced from raw
materials to manufacture yarn.
Raw Fibers is prepared by separating impurities by cotton
balls.
Garment Processing:
Yarn is further woven into raw fabric.
: Further after dying and finishing,
Finish fabric is produced.
Different articles including
readymade are processed
from finished Fabric.

28. YARN FABRICATION
Yarn fabrication is the process, which converts raw fibre into yarn or
thread.
V
V
V
V
A MODEL OF YARNMANUFATURING PROCESS

29. STEPS FOR YARN MANUFATURING
CLEANIN
G
OPENING
/BLENDI
NG
RAW
FIBRE
CARDING COMBING
DRAWING
SPINNING
YARN

30. OPENING /BLENDING
Raw material (cotton and synthetic) are
received in compact bales.
Opening is the first operation required to
carried out to open material from highly
pressed cotton/synthetic bales.
A textile machine of blending

31. CLEANING
Cotton fibre must be cleaned to remove foreign matter such as plant parts, seed
hulls, dirt etc. from the fibres.
CARDING
The blow room only opens the row material to
flock whereas the card opens the flock into
individual fibres.
Complete diagram of carding process
• The working elements are taker- in, main
cylinder, card top and doffing cylinder.
• The working elements are equipped with
saw-tooth wires.

32. COMBING
Combing process serves to improve the raw material in production
ofmedium, medium to fine and fineyarns.
The combing machine, whose use is optional, to improve the yarn quality, is
located in the spinning process between the drawing frame and the flyer. Its
goal is achieved by combing out the shorter fibres, thus increasing the effective
fibre length.
Animated
process of
combing

33. DRAWING
The task of drawing process is to improve
evenness over short, medium and especially
long term level by straightening and paralyzing
the fibre.
In addition to this it also for blending of
different fibres (Blending of Polyester /
Cotton, Polyester / Viscose, Polyester / Wool etc.)
Animated diagram of drawing machine process

34. SPINNING
In this process rove is fed to drafting
arrangement, which further attenuate
to spin into final yarn.
The delivered stand of fine fibre from
the drafting arrangement, is strengthe-
ned by inserting twist in it.
This twist is generated by the spindle,
which rotate at a higher speed.
Spinner rollers are attached with looms

35. PROCESS OF SPINNING MACHINE

36. MAN MADE FIBERS
Manmade fibres are often shipped as staple
(similar in length to natural fibres), which is
ready for spinning, or as filament yarn,
which may be used directly or following
further shaping or texturizing.
The three main methods of fibre manufacture.
•WET SPINNING
•DRY SPINNING
•MELT SPINNING
Roller of man made fiber

37. FABRIC PRODUCTION
Fabric production, the second step,
involves weaving, knitting, tufting
and non-woven.
Tufting and non-woven are used in
the fabric manufacturing but not as
widely as weaving and knitting.

38. WEAVING
Weaving is the most common method used for
producing fabrics.
The process is carried out of two sets of threads,
which interlaces lengthwise yarns (warp yarns)
with width wise ones (weft or filling yarns).
To prevent the warp yarns from braking during
weaving, the warp threads are coated with a size
before weaving, to increase their tensile strength
and smoothness.
Natural starches are the most commonly used
sizes, although compounds such as polyvinyl
alcohol (PVA), resins, alkali-soluble cellulose
derivatives and gelatine glue have been used.
The sizing compound is dried on the threads and
remains a part of the cloth until it is removed in the
subsequent processes.

39. A MODLE OF WEAVING
A lady doing weaving of fibre with the weaver machine

40. KNITTING
In knitting fabric is formed through
interlocking series of yarn loops.
Rows of stitches are formed so that each
row hangs on the row behind it, usually
using sophisticated, high-speed machinery.

41. TUFTING
Tufting is the process of inserting additional
yarns into fabric to create a pile fabric.
The substrate fabric can range from a thin
backing to heavy burlap-type material and may
be woven, knitted, or web.
An industrial machine of tufting

42. Textile wet processing
•Textile wet processing is the process that
use in any finishing treatment. Where,
this process is applied on textile in form
of liquid with involves some for
chemical action on the textile.
•Examples: bleaching, printing, dyeing
and printing.

43. In textile wet processing it can be divided into three process, that are preparation
process, coloration process and finishing process.
Singeing:
Singeing is the process is removing the hairs of
fabrics or fibers. In singeing process, we use
three technique to applied it. Such as, gas flame
technique. At the end of this process, we will
find, that the fabrics is smoother than before and
the fabrics wettability is increase.

44. Desizing:
Desizing is the process or removing
the starch or size the covering the
warp yarn using enzyme. Oxidizing
agent, or other chemicals. There are
three types of technique in
desizing and four method of desizing
that has been used in wet processing.

45. Scouring:
Scouring is a chemical washing process carried out on cotton fabric to remove
natural wax and non-fibrous impurities (e.g. the remains of seed fragments) from
the fibers and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually carried in iron vessels
called kiers. The fabric is boiled in an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty
acids (saponification). The three main processes involved in the scouring are
saponification, emulsification and detergency.
The main chemical reagent used in the cotton scouring is sodium hydroxide which
converts saponifiable fats and oils into soaps, dissolves mineral matter and
converts pectose and pectin into their soluble salts.
Another scouring chemical is detergent which is an emulsifying agent and removes
dust and dirt particles from the fabric.

46. Bleaching:
It improves whiteness by removing natural coloration and remaining trace
impurities from the cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is determined by the
required whiteness and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fiber will be bleached
using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or dilute hydrogen
peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are
acceptable. However, for white bed sheets and medical applications, the highest
levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.
Reductive bleaching is also carried out, using sodium hydrosulphite. Fibers
like polyamide, polyacrylics and polyacetates can be bleached using reductive
bleaching technology.
After scouring and bleaching, optical brightening agents (OBA), are applied to
make the textile material appear more white. These OBAs are available in different
tints such as blue, violet and red.

47. Mercerizing process
Mercerizing is the process to
improve the luster, hand and other
properties of cotton by using strong
caustic alkaline solution. In this
process, it can be divided into three
uses that are dyeing printing,
finishing and it also has been used in
final appearance in general. Beside
that, in this process has some type of
mercerizing. Slack mercerizing is the
example of type of mercerizing.

48. DYEING PROCESS:
Dyeing is the process of give color to fibers, yarn, or fabrics by using natural
or synthetic dye. In this process it have involving three principle process, that
are retardation, migration and diffusion which all this are chemical process.
There are many type of dyeing that using in textile wet processing such as
cross dyeing, union dyeing and gel dyeing. All of then has there own process
to make the dyeing process smoothly and produce a good quality of dyeing.
Cross Dyeing:
Cross dyeing is “a method of dyeing blend or combination fabrics to two or
more shades by the use of dyes with different affinities for the different
fibers”. The cross dyeing process can be used to create heather effects, and
plaid, check, or striped fabrics.

49. Union Dyeing:
Union dyeing is "a method of dyeing a fabric containing two or more types of
fibers or yarns to the same shade so as to achieve the appearance of a solid
coloured fabric". Fabrics can be dyed using a single or multiple step process.
Union dyeing is used to dye solid coloured blends and combination fabrics
commonly used for apparel and home furnishings
Gel Dyeing:
Passing a wet-spun fiber that is in the gel state (not yet at full crystallinity or
orientation) through a dye bath containing dye with affinity for the fiber. This
process provides good accessibility of the dye sites.

50. ACIDIC DYES
An acid dye is a dye that is typically
applied to a textile at low pH. Mainly
used on wool, silk and polyamide fibers.
They give very bright colors, whose
fastness ranges from very poor
(allowing colors to run) to very good.
Acid red 88 is an acid dye used to
produce red woolen yarns

51. BASIC DYE
Basic dyes are water soluble cationic
dyes. These dyes consist of amino
groups (trialkyl amines , dialkyl
amines ) and are usually aniline dyes.
Basic dyes produce bright shades on
textile materials
e.g., Methylene Blue
.

52. DIRECT DYE:
Direct dye, also called Substantive
Dye, any of a class of colored, water-
soluble compounds that have an
affinity for fiber and are taken up
directly, such as the benzidine
derivatives.

53. DISPERSE DYE
Disperse dye is one kind of
organic substances which is free
of ionizing group. Disperse dyes
are less soluble in water and used
for dyeing synthetic textile
materials.

54. DISADVANTAGES AND HAZARD EFFECT OF DYES

55. PRINTING
Printing is a process by which coloured
patterns are produced on the fabric. Unlike
dyeing, it is usually only carried out on
prepared fabric where it is applied to
specific areas to achieve a planned design.
The color is applied to the fabric and then
treated with steam, heat or chemicals to
fix the color on the fabric.
Fig- A man printed the logo on T-shirt by using dye

56. GARMENT MANUFACTURING
The finished cloths are fabricated into a variety
of apparel and household industrial products.
The simpler of these products, such as bags,
sheets, towels, blanket, and draperies often
produced by the textile mills themselves, but
apparel or more complex house-wares are
usually fabricated by cutting trades. Fig-27- Animated picture of single machine

57. FACTORSAFFECTING TEXTILE INDUSTRY
• PROBLEMS FACED BY INDUSTRY
• CLIMATIC CONDITION
• TRAINING
• EDUCATION

58. PROBLEMS FACED BY THE INDUSTRY
• Lack Of ResearchAnd Development In Cotton
Sector
• Lack of Modernize equipment
• Finance bill to burden industry further
• Increasing cost of production
• Internal issues Pose a Larger Threat for Pakistan’s
Textile Industry.
• Energy crisis
• Lack of new investment

59. CLIMATIC CONDITION:
Although Pakistan has the ideal climatic conditions for the growth of
cotton providing a factor advantage to the textile industry, but it is
also quite vulnerable to pesticides that can lower the yield per hector.
The textile sector is largely dependent on the supply of raw material
of the agricultural sector and hence whatever happens to the
agricultural sector like floods will adversely affect the textile
industry rendering it even more vulnerable to environmental
conditions.

60. TRAINING:
Limited availability of trained technical staff to maintain and run
machinery at full efficiency is a constraint upon the development of
Pakistan’s textile industry. This shortfall is partly due to a lack of
technical education facilities.
Some of the developments in the textile industry include:
Advances in ring spinning,
Computerized dyeing and finishing,
computer-aided designing ,
manufacturing and developing retailing links.
Hence, all these demand new and greater skills and Pakistan lacks it.

61. EDUCATION
• Education is essential for the development of the textile industry. Even
if the basic factors are present, unless value-addition is not done on
them, they will not be productive enough.
• Even if there is not enough production a country could still manage
through research and development.
• Survey shows that technical manpower need in the industry is 12,750
grads. But up to 2003 the available graduates were 7,950.

62. THREATS:
• Pakistan is facing new competitors in textile sector such as
Bangladesh, Vietnam and Turkey. Though we cannot avoid
competition but we can always stay ahead of them by reforming our
strategies and educating our entrepreneurs so as to move one step
forward in every aspect.
• As the quota system is ruled out by WTO, there is a threat by the
Chinese and Indian manufacturers to gain most of the market share. We
have high costs, low labor productivity and inefficient production
processes.