Amelia Johnstone | Year 1-2 Summer Holiday Briefing 2011
Jasmine Alexander low res
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With a Cause
ja s m i n e A l e x a n d e r
The
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india’s first Luxury jewellery magazine JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2014 59
he is a poet by choice and designer by accident. A cult leader in the world of jewellery
whose work is singular in its eccentricity, UK-based Jasmine Alexander’s creations are
off-beat because they come straight from the heart. Her pieces are poetic and they have
a spiritual tilt compelling one to look inwards. She marries luxury with dark, abstract
concepts that are generally not associated with design, especially in jewellery.
This lone ranger is anti-establishment, but instead of venting her angst against the
world, she chooses to exhibit her creative muscle through her designs that are startlingly
refreshing and radical.
Creativity springs forth from pain and isolation and the only reason she goes through
the rigours of life is to ‘create’!
Creating is her only hobby, her only channel to understand herself, and above all,
chip and chisel her soul so that she achieves contentment when she breathes her last.
Call her a yogini or punk rock artist, she is unaffected by fame or money. The desiger
agreed for an e-mail interview, and opened up to reveal the strong psychological forces
that drive her to produce avant-garde pieces. By Shanoo Bijlani
My life altered drastically. I lost part of my left index finger in an accident
and that stole my ability to hand make specific types of jewellery.
I was left with no choice, and so, along with my colleague, I built a new
articulated 18-karat gold finger. I had to shift my focus solely to designing.
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Created for the
Gemfields Global
Campaign, to
mark the merger
of Faberge and
Gemfields, Jasmine
conceptualised
the stylised gold
wing ring that
showcases filigreed
wings holding aloft
a baguette-cut
Zambian emerald
mined by Gemfields.
“A Word to The Wise”
ring in18-karat yellow
gold focuses on a
3.2-carat emerald.
If I weren’t a jewellery designer, I’d be involved in animal activism.
Or may be, I’d be on the frontline of it all somewhere far away
and dusty… or maybe on the high seas.
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“Each thorn cleverly,
consciously created
to swirl upwards,
appearing to
exude danger and
chaos, but instead,
considered, soft...
portraying beauty.”
The INRI bangle is
mounted in 18-karat
yellow gold.
fashion forward
You have introduced punk rock in the world of
jewellery. Did you know that you were meant to be a
cult leader in this field? If not a jewellery designer,
what would you be?
Wow! Okay, first, the cult leader thing.That’s a little
mindblowing.
No, I had no idea what I would be when I grew up.
To be honest, I had little or no time to consider such
things when younger as my childhood years were
almost like a warzone. My little brother and I were
lucky to get out alive.
My early education wasn’t an education at all. School
was a refuge for my little brother and I.We were both
rather unruly and the system eventually gave up on
us both as they had no idea what to do with us.Truth
be known, in retrospect, we just had extroardinary
issues with authority and that coupled with my being
a dreamer...
So mostly, we’d seek fun and refuge where we could
find it. Our objective was to keep breathing... and
soon, I found solace in creativity. In my twenties, I
decided to lead a noble existence – that I’d live and
die a penniless poet.This pursuit found me actively
chasing every aspect of that, however, somewhere
during all of that my creative skills were noticed by
a teacher at school, who saw something in me that
no one else did. He knew my creative streak and it
gave him enough reason to mediate on my behalf. He
arranged a college interview to study the fine art of
jewellery craftsmanship.That has led me here, today.
Knowing that I didn’t have much else to do, I went
through the two-year course and later enrolled into Sir
John Cass Faculty of Arts. But it was always poetry for
me... not the kind that speaks of earthly love, but the
kind that considers the pyche of the man and his soul
and its place within the universe.
What was the turning point that finally steered you
towards jewellery designing?
In August 2007, my life altered drastically. I lost part of
my left index finger in an accident and that stole my
ability to hand make specific types of jewellery. I was
left with no choice, and so, along with my colleague,
I built a new articulated 18-karat gold finger. I had
to shift my focus solely to designing. By January
2008, I had launched my brand, and by June that
year, I introduced my first collection alongside the
iconic designer, Sir Paul Smith in his Mayfair Gallery,
London.
If I weren’t a jewellery designer, I’d be involved in
animal activism. Or may be, I’d be on the frontline of
it all somewhere far away and dusty… or maybe on the
high seas.
What were your growing up years like?
Born in Brighton, descending on London at 17, and as
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a woman, I chose the quiet, green expanse of Surrey.
I’m reclusive, even when the pretty city lights of
London drew me, I consciously lived amid the buzz,
but not as part of it. I feel England courses through my
veins. London is like a spiritual home. Here’s where I
feel liberated, inspired, and safe. But the lack of nature
and the encroaching concrete fabric makes me stifled
especially if I spend too much time with other people.
I’m not one for crowds.
We believe you are fond of poetry.Who are your
favourite poets?
I don’t have a favourite poet as I don’t read the work of
others. I am deeply afraid of subconscious plagiarism.
My poetry was a private, albeit obsessive, journey to
understand life. However, I have since studied a little
Shakespeare and it completely resonated with me. I
got it in a heartbeat. People like me don’t like to be
‘told’, we like to ‘discover’ and we are offended when
our intellect is underestimated. I guess that’s because
when we get right down to it, we are all rebels.We are
all revolutionaries.
I have one hobby – creativity. I don’t know any other
way to describe it – from various mediums within art
to resculpturing my mind and soul.
You have the penchant for deftly knitting abstract
thoughts into your jewellery pieces. How do you
bring in feelings and philosophical concepts into
design?
Since my accident, and since the time I consciously
quit the life of a self-destructive poet, my poetry now
exists in my design work. It wasn’t a conscious move.
That is the way it has been. My design work, like any of
my creative work, is born out of emotions. It really is as
simple as that.
I have spent so many years alone with just words as
my company, poetry has been my escape and thought
processes, my journeys. I have programmed myself to
function and to think that way. So, when a moment in
“The piece is born of
a human spine. Built
of 27 separate
components,
none are riveted or
soldered, but instead
interlock with one
another... the work is
as stark and bold as it
is beautiful pertaining
to the unwavering
strength and power
of the human mind
and heart.”
The Primal bracelet
is mounted in silver
and set with VS
diamonds.
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fashion forward
reality captures me, either negatively or positively, I see
in my mind an almost tangible force. I find the process
very exciting, very thrilling.
It is a subconscious formula.Though I would say, if I
were to liken it to cakes, it would be the final icing that
falls consciously.
I ask myself: Could I enhance its aesthetics ? Do
I add or remove flourishes? Does the piece beg for
a little more academic thought? Am I emotionally
arrested by it? Does it give me that feeling of
excitement, indicating completion or is something
missing?
Which metals do you like to work with?
I mostly work in 18-karat gold or platinum and prefer
to use diamonds, sapphires, rubies, emeralds. I keep
things precious in honour of the intellectual or poetic
premise behind the work.
One of my latest favourite obsessions is the way
the stone is held, embraced, shown off against
the rest of the piece. I love the technical
challenges posed in this form of exercise and
overcome it. My recent piece, ‘A Word to
the Wise... love is measured in depths
of colour’ is an 18-karat yellow gold,
platinum ring with a 3.85-carat fine
emerald.
Your jewellery is not run-of-the-mill. Are you worried
that by being radically different you just may not
find enough customers?
I have never created a single piece with clients in
mind. I never create to sell. I create, because it’s my
language, it’s how I communicate with the world.
There was a time, for many many years, I didnt think
this ‘language’ would ever be released only because I
didn’t know my tomorrows. And I was fine with that.
I concluded it maybe more a narrative about my
world, my existence, spoken by me, to me, so that I
might understand me. I also figured that everything
I do is my conversation with God, the way I perceive
Him. I believe that He is the universal intellectual
conscious energy that permeates all, and in realising
this, I found myself liberated. I found the courage to
be me without a care of how others perceived me.
I’m not sure if that really answers your question, but
I will say that sometimes I find it difficult to sell
the pieces as my love for them is so so great. For
instance, the piece I did for Gemfields/Faberge
‘A Word to the Wise...’ when that piece sells,
I have decided it must go to someone I can
remain in contact with, who will allow me
to remain in touch so that every now and
then I get to see the piece.
So, no I have never worried
“...like the phoenix,
rising from the ashes,
wild and free above
flickering flames,
individually created
feathers, possessing
detail inside and
out, emerge from
the flames, like
soft sculptures,
outstretched and in
flight, reaching for the
heavens, their tips
cradling an elevated
line of brilliance
by way of dazzling
diamonds...and
so we rise, Ascent
Victorious.”
The Ascent Victorious
ring is created in rose
gold and set with
black diamonds.
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about customers. As this is not something that is led
by money, or the amassing of it.
Is it difficult to be individualistic? Because those who
walk the path alone are very courageous.What were
the payoffs? Also, how did you manage to balance the
act so wonderfully?
That’s difficult to answer, as contradicting answers
apply. No, it isn’t difficult being me. I literally can’t be
anyone or anything else.
Yes, it is difficult ‘living’ me, as it is incredibly
isolating sometimes, and sometimes, it’s odd to stand
by your convictions, even though momentarily it may
damage one’s self.
And thank you, but I am not yet sure if I’ve balanced
it wonderfully. I am by nature an extremist, so maybe
it isn’t about balance, in that sense. How does one
balance ‘you’ in an imbalanced world? We won’t know
that till the finishing line... which brings me neatly to
your query about the pay-offs. On my deathbed, in
my final moments, I shall be afforded the grace of
dying, content.
I read in one of your interviews that “you opted
out of society for a few years”.Why and when did
you take this route? And who was the new Jasmine
that emerged from this ‘meditative mode’ and how
different was she from the old Jasmine?
Ahh... okay... I am, in general, a reclusive being, but
this period refers to my early twenties when I turned
a complete recluse for four years. Celibate, even in my
thought processes. Most of the time I lived on a roof,
even in the cold. I was awake mostly during the night.
On a clear night, I’d write, think, ponder... from the
roof I celebrated the evening, the stars, the fields, and
my mind. My little brother would cycle up and deliver
food to me, through the door. If I did venture out, it
was only late at night.
Yes, it was a pivotal moment, and I cannot divulge
why I took this route, but I will say, I had no other
choice. I couldn’t be with the world, so I just
removed myself from society. Initially, I thought I was
emotionally purging myself in order to put myself back
together through a series of self-imposed challenges. It
didn’t take long for me to realise that the weaponry of
mind was the thing that would save me.The pursuit of
wisdom became my passion.
And I want to make it very clear : I’m talking about
a spiritual quotient which, in turn, has afforded me an
inherent academic intelligence and in the search I’ve
“Every love, every discourse,
war, peace and revolution
has a different view ‘point’
depending on where one exists
within that, be it intellectually,
geographically or emotionally.”
The Revolution ring in 18-karat
yellow gold is set with black
and VS diamonds and dark
sapphires.
“A delicate little piece
created to softly hint
at armour,takes its
essence from ancient
crusaders,defenders
of beauty and valour.
An intricate lattice work
of myriad stylised
crowns and finished
with inverted
rubies, the colour
attributed to holy
knights.”
The 18-karat white gold
ring is set with fine
rubies.
“Inspired by the life and love of
the British poet,Keats,who died
a tragic and early death.The
one carat centre stone heralds
the eternally beautous affair, the
dripping sapphires and diamonds
the sorrows and the morning
bejewelled dewdrop,tears of
passion and joy...”
The Belle Tragedie ring is
fashioned out of 18-karat white
gold and is speckled with dark
sapphires and VS diamonds.