The years between 1900 and 1913 represent an extremely turbulent historical moment. Women's fashion is often said to mirror closely the spirit of the times. Technology was a huge force of change during this times, as the Industrial age kicked in. This was a time of transition and progress; although the world was rapidly changing, people still held ideals of womanly beauty and clothing trends reflected that.
2. Impressionism is a precursor of various
painting styles, including Neo-Impression-
ism, Post-Impressionism, Fauvism, and
Cubism.
imressionism
an avant-garde art movement. one of
the most imortant in modern art.it was
develoed by pablo picasso and georges
braques.
the cubists challenged conventional
forms of reppresentation.
it was an attemt to revitalise the tired
traditions of western art.
technological progress, inventions;
photography, cinematography, sound re-
codring and the telephone. the airlane
and motor car.
first abstract style of modern art.
cubism
Pablo Picasso, 1910, Girl with a Mandolin
(Fanny Tellier), oil on canvas, 100.3 x 73.6
cm, Museum of Modern Art, New York
3. giovanni boldini
1842-1931
an italian painter, portraitist and land-
scapist. initially boldini practiced with
his father who was also a sculptor and an
artist.
attended the academy of fine arts
boldini is highly influenced by degas,
monet and sargent.
his painting deict the parisian life and el-
egant women
known as the “master of swish”
his brushstrokes brought about all the
energy of the painting alive.
he is the most popular portrait painter of
the high society
natalina cavalieri
italian opera singer.
Renowned as much for her great beau-
ty as for her singing voice, she became
one of the most photographed stars
of her time. Frequently referred to as
the “world’s most beautiful woman,”
she was part of the tight lacing tradi-
tion that saw women use corsetry to
create an “hour-glass” figure.
Avant-garde though he was, Boldini
always remained indebted to the six-
teenth-century Italian masters, whose
work he had copied assiduously as a
young student and later at the Acad-
emy in Florence.
4. Nudo di donna in grigio Sinfonia in grigio.
This work reveals a very different side of Boldini’s art
from the grand society portraiture for which he is
best known
philip de laszlo
1869-1937
born as fulop laub in budapest, laszlo’s
greatest influence was john singer sar-
gent .
he was known for painting the elite of
the era,; princess marina, european kings,
dukes and more.
it is said laszlo painted in a way such that
the portraits “look exactly as they would
like them
5. Setting his sights on royalty,
he targeted the rich and titled, often
through their womenfolk. Not all his
work was successful: the portrait of
Vita Sackville-West quite misses her
singularity. But that of Elinor Glyn, with
cobalt eyebrows to match her jewels and
cascading satin, brilliantly conveys the
vulgar glamour of the Edwardian age.
“Can’t you see the powder on her face?”
bitched its first viewers. “And the hair,
plainly dyed! He is so clever.”
john singer sargent
1856-1925
during this era sargent was at the height
of his fame.
from the very beginning sargents work is
seen as highly technical and skilled
especisialy due to his ability to draw
using a brush.
FROM 1907 ONWARDS HE MADE MORE OF
LANDSCAPES.
18. Man: I’m afraid I can’t hear
you.
Woman: What did you say?
Man: I didn’t quite hear.
Woman: Will speak a little
louder.
(Man and woman on the
phone)
Woman: Beautiful day.
Man: Lovely day, isn’t it?
(The only way)
A cartoon by W.K. Haselden in 1910
making fun of the size of a woman’s
hat. (Daily Mirror Newspaper)
23. stockings worn by women
For evening, men’s attire was strictly com-
posed of a black dress coat, white waistcoat
and trousers matching the coat. The dress
coat was double-breasted with a cut-away
front and two tails at the rear.
Golf clothing,1912. on the left,
knickers and a Norflok jacket; on
the right, a plaid suit with a half
belt at the back
COSTUME FOR MEN
24. Robe de soiree de Poiret, drawn by Georges
Lepape, shows Paul Poiret’s typical lampshade
tunic over a long narrow skirt
Les Robes de Paul Poiret drawn by Paul Iribe
PAUL POIRET
25. Vintage Vogue cover, 1913. Depicts
the ‘Hobble skirt’ designed by Paul
Poiret
Paul Poiret’s inspiration from Ballet
Russes Production Scheherazade
26. Actress Lillian Gish in a Delphos
Dress
Mariano Fortuny dove-grey Delphos gown,
circa 1930, printed with maker to the inner
selvedge, the armholes and side seams edged in
clear Murano glass beads, the satin belt sten-
cilled with silver vines.
Mariano Fortuny
27. This Doucet creation, illustrated by H.
Robert Dammy, shows the new flowing
line. It is complemented by a sumptuous
Oriental coat with fur trimming.
Evening gown Jacques Doucet
(French, Paris 1853–1929 Paris)
Jacques Doucet
28. The Parisian cabaret artiste Gaby
Deslys wearing a dress by Jeanne
Paquin.
A magnificent evening cloak with kimono
sleeves and long tails worn over a dress
with train
Jeanne Paquin
29. Loïe Fuller was a visionary artist who
crafted a novel genre of performance, one
that combined billowing costumes with
dazzling lights and projections to con-
jure transformative imagery of hypnotic
beauty.
Loie fuller
1862-1928
This 1892 photograph shows Fuller cos-
tumed for her Serpentine Dance and hold-
ing a typical “skirt dance” pose. On the
right Fuller sewed wands inside her silk
garment to extend her reach into space
30. Isadora Duncan (1878-1927), in a picture by
Arnold Genthe (1869-1942). Symbol of the
“New Feminism”.
A celebrated dancer, Isadora was wildly
unconventional and her life was consid-
ered scandalous. She was one of the first
feminists. Her fondness for long, flowing
scarves and her extravagant waywardness
were her doom.
Isadora Duncan
1877-1927
31. Four poses from Mata Hari’s infamous Dance of the Veils. She
dropped layer after layer of her glamorously provocative
costume until,but for one last thin veil, she danced naked
on the stage.
Mata Hari, was a Dutch exotic dancer,
courtesan, and accused spy who was ex-
ecuted by firing squad in France under
charges of espionage for Germany during
World War I.
Mata Hari
1876-1917
32. Sarah Bernhardt’s Oriental costumes
for her role as Empress Theodora in
an 1894 stage production
Sarah bernhardt (1844-1923). Who
was the biggest star and unforget-
table in her roles as tosca, joan of
arc, Phaedra. In 1900 paul poiret de-
signed the costume for her first
breeches part in L’Aiglon.
Sarah Bernhardt
1844-1923
33. colorized version of a Camille Clifford cabinet
card
the original “Gibson Girl.” A Gibson
Girl was the personification of the
feminine ideal of beauty portrayed
by the satirical pen-and-ink illustra-
tions of illustrator Charles Dana
Gibson
Camille Clifford
1885-1971