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WHAT IS TEXTILE?
Production of Clothing, Fabric , Apparel , House Hold,
Yarn, Fiber , Many Product Can Be Obtained by Textile.
Second Human Need Sector
Small Scale Industry to Very Huge Industry
MAIN PRODUCTION AREA OF TEXTILE
1. Textile Raw Material Technology
2. Yarn Forming Technology
3. Fabric Forming Technology
4. Fabric Finishing Technology
5. Garment Technology
TECHNOLOGY SUPPORTED FOR MAIN
PRODUCTION AREA
 Textile Testing and Quality Control
 Textile Machinery & Related Mechanical
 Computer & Electronic , Pneumatic
 Textile Chemical Technology
 Textile Factory Management & Costing
 Supply Water & Waste Water Treatment
 Textile Fiber Science – Natural & Synthetic
 Textile Design & Color
TRAINING PROGRAM
For
TEXTILE SECTOR DEVELOPMENT
In
MYANMAR
PART -1
PRESENTATION BY – U AUNG ZIN (M.E –TEXTILE)
အမွ်င္ ကုန္ၾကမ္း
 အထည္အလိပ္ ထုတ္ကုန္မ်ား ၏ အေျခခဵ
အမွ်င္မ်ား ကုိ ေအာက္ပါအတုိင္း ခြဲျခားထားပါသည္။
 သဘာှ အမွ်င္မ်ား (Natural fiber)
 ှါမွ်င္ (cotton fiber)
 ပုိးမွ်င္ ( silk fiber)
 သုိးေမႊး ( wool fiber)
COTTON
 ှါ မွ်င္ Cotton
 Chemical Structure of
Natural Polymer
[C6 H10 O5] n
Specific gravity 1.54
Strength (Tenacity) 3.0 – 4.9 g/d
အေရးပါေသာ ဂုဏ္သတၱိမ်ား
 ှါမွ်င္ အရွည္ (Fiber Length)
 Staple Length
 Upper Half mean length
INFLUENCE OF FIBER LENGTH ON YARN COUNT
Staple classification Length mm Length inches Spinning Count
Short Less than 24 15/16 �1 Coarse Below 20
Medium 24- 28 1.1/132-1.3/32 Medium Count 20s-34s
Long 28 �34 1.3/32 -1.3/8 Fine Count 34s - 60s
Extra Long 34- 40 1.3/8 -1.9/16 Superfine Count 80s - 140s
အမွ်င္ အရွည္ ညီညာမွဳ႕(LENGTH
UNIFORMITY)
 Length Uniformity is the ratio between the mean length and
the upper- half mean length of the fibers, expressed as a
percentage.
 အကယ္၍ အမွ်င္အားလုဵး တူညီတဲ အရွည္ေတြ ရွိေနလွ်င္ Mean Length ႏွင္႔
Upper half mean length တူေနသျဖင္႕ Uniformitly = 100%
 သုိေသာ္ U% 100 မျဖစ္ႏုိင္
 U% အနည္းအမ်ား ကုိ တဖက္ပါ
 ဇယားတြင္ ၾကည္႔ပါရန္
 ှါမွ်င္ ခုိင္အား (Fiber Strength)
 Breaking Strength (around 3.0 – 4.9 g/d)
 Elongation at break ( 8 ~ 10 %)
 ှါမွ်င္ ရင႔္ၾကတ္မွဳ႕ (Micronaire)
 Micronaire is one of
the most important
Fiber characteristics for
Spinner.
 An indicator of
Air permeability.
 The best range is 3.5 to 5.5 micronaire reading.
ှါမွ်င္ အေရာင္ (COLOR GRADE)
TRASH CONTENT
 Lint content ( L%) = Total Lint L / M x 100
 Trash content ( T%) = Trash T/M x 100
 Invisible waste content ( W%)= 100 – (L +T)
ှါမ်ိဴးစိတ္မ်ား
1. Gossypium Hirsulum
 Up land cotton (or) Mexican cotton
 90% of cotton production globally
2. GOSSYPIUM BARBADENSE
 Extra Long staple cotton
 Sea Island cotton /Pima cotton
 Fiber longer than 34 mm ( 1 3/8 inches)
3. GOSSYPIUM ARBOREUM
 Source in INDIA , PAKISTAN
4. GOSSYPIUM HERBACEUM
 Levant cotton
 African cotton
POLYESTER
POLYESTER FIBER
 ေပၚလီအက္စတာ သည္ ေရနဵ အေျခခဵ ဓါတုေဗဒ ပစၥည္းျဖစ္ျပီး သဘာှ
ဓါတ္ေငြ႔ (သုိ႔) ေရနဵ စိမ္း မွ ထုတ္လုပ္သည္။
 Polyester is a synthetic polymer made of Purified Terephthalic Acid
(PAT) or Dimethylterephthalate (DMT) and Mono- Ethylene Glycol
(MEG)
THE PRODUCT OF PET
 Textile Grade
 PSF – polyester Staple Fiber
 POY- Partially Oriented Yarn
 DTY- Drawn Textured Yarn
 FDY- Fully Drawn Yarn
 BO-PET – Biaxial –oriented polyester film
 BOTTLE GRADE
 A-PET – Amorphous polyester film
POLYESTER MARKET GROWTH
OUR COUNTRY NEED PET RECYCLE !
WHO WANT TO INVEST THIS?
POLYESTER DTY YARN PRODUCTION LINE
POLYESTER PSF PRODUCTION LINE
VIRGIN OR RECYCLE PSF PRODUCTION LINE
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF PSF
SOURCE FROM
POLYESTER FULLY DRAWN YARN -FDY
IMPORTANT NOTED FOR POLYESTER FILAMENT
YARN
 SD = Semi Dull
BRT. = Bright Trilobal / Bright Round
RW = Raw White ( Natural white )
 NIM = Non Intermingle
LIM = Low Intermingle ( SIM = Slight / Semi
Intermingled )
HIM = High Intermingle
 Mino Filament
 False Twist
အလြန္က်ယ္ျပန္႔ေသာ ေပၚလီ ထုတ္ကုန္မ်ား
ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ စနစ္မ်ား
YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM
 ကမၻာ အသုဵးမ်ား ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ စနစ္ (၂) မ်ိဴး
 Indirect Number System
 1. Ne – English Cotton Yarn Number
Number of 840 yards per pound
 2. Nm – Metric Yarn Number
Length in Meter per 1 gram of mass
DIRECT NUMBER SYSTEM
 3. D – dem- DENIER
 Mass of Yarn in grams for length of 9000 meters
 4. Tex – Tex System
 Mass of Yarn in grams for length of 1000 meters
 dTex – Decitex
 Mass of Yarn in grams for length of 10,000
meters
ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ ကုိ UNIT ေျပာင္းႏုိင္ပါတယ္။
COTTON YARN MAIN SPECIFICATION
 ှါခ်ည္ မ်ား တြင္ အဓိက စစ္ေဆးရ မည္႔
အရည္အေသြးဆုိင္ရာ အခ်က္မ်ား
 ဿ) ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ Yarn Count
 ၀) ခ်ည္ခုိင္အား Yarn Strength
 ၁) တလကၼ အလိမ္ ပါှင္မွဳ႕ Twist per Inch (TPI)
 ၂) ခ်ည္လုဵး ညီညာမွဳ႕ Evenness of Yarn
 ၃) ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ ခုိင္အားေျမာက္ေဖၚကိန္း C.S.P
Count Strength Product
ခ်ည္၏ အရည္အေသြးျပ နမူနာပုဵစဵ
POLYESTER STAPLE SPINNING
 Polyester Spun Yarn ----- 100% & Blended with
others
 Couse count to fine count
 Specification just same in
cotton spun yarn
1. Count
2. TPI
3. Strength
4. Evenness
POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN
POY- POLYESTER PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN
 Polyester filament yarn
 POY- Polyester Partially Oriented Yarn
POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN
POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN
 RW – RAW WHITE
 DDB – DOPE DYED BLACK
 SD – SEMI DULL
 TBR – TRILOBAL BRIGHT
POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN
DTY-DRAWN TEXTURED YARN
 Drawn Textured Yarn (DTY) yarn is obtained
when Polyester POY is simultaneously twisted
and drawn. DTY yarn is mainly used as a part of
weaving and knitting of fabrics for making
garments, home decorations, seat covers, bags
and numerous different things. DTY yarn can
be in Semi Dull or Bright or Triloble Bright
depending upon the kind of areas of filaments.
 Dope dyed DTY
POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN
DTY-DRAWN TEXTURED YARN
 Non-Intermingle (NIM) having 0 – 10 knots/meter or Semi-
Intermingle (SIM) having 40 – 50 knots/meter or High-
Intermingle (HIM) having 100 – 120 knots/meter. These knots
are not actually the knots tied when two threads are broken yet
they are the tangle knots created by heating pressure. These
Intermingle yarns, also known as Interlaced yarn
POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN
DTY-DRAWN TEXTURED YARN
POLYESTER FULLY DRAWN YARN
(POLYESTER FDY)
 It can also call Polyester Filament Yarn (PFY) or Spin
Draw Yarn (SDY). FDY is mainly used as weft or weaves
in making fabrics. FDY can be knitted or woven with any
other filament yarn to get fabric of various different
varieties. It is mainly used in Home Furnishing Fabrics,
Fashion Fabrics, Denim, Terry Towel and others. FDY
yarn is mainly available in 3 luster – Semi-dull (SD),
Bright (BR) having circular section & Triloble Bright (TBR)
having triangular cross-sections
 Polyester FDY yarn can also be twisted to make
Polyester Embroidery
POLYESTER FULLY DRAWN YARN
(POLYESTER FDY)
TRAINING PROGRAM PART – 3
WEAVING DESIGN
BY
COMPUTER
U AUNG ZIN M.E (TEXTILE)
WEAVING FABRIC DESIGN
 TYPE OF DESIGN
 INTERLACING WARP AND WEFT THREAD
 THERE HAVE TWO TYPE -
1. WARP OVER WEFT
2. WEFT OVER WARP
 MARK IN WARP OVER WEFT
TYPE OF DESIGN
 BASIC FABRIC DESIGN
 PLAIN WEAVE
• PLAIN , SOME FABRICS SUCH AS , POPLIN,TAFFETA
 TWILL WEAVE
• FABRIC ARRANGED BY DIAGONAL PATTERN, 2/1
TWILL,3/1 TWILL, 3/3 TWILL,1/2 TWILL . THESE ARE
SOFTER FABRIC THAN PLAIN WEAVE.
 SATIN WEAVE OR SATEEN
• FABRIC ARRANGED BY HARNESS NUMBERS
PILE FABRIC
• SUCH AS VELVETS, VELVETEENS
JACQUARD DESIGN
TYPE OF WEAVING LOOMS
 SHUTTLE LOOMS
 CAM OR TARPET LOOM
 DOBBY LOOM
 JACQUARD LOOM
TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM
 SHUTTLELESS LOOMS
 FOUR TYPE OF SHUTTLELESS LOOM
 1. FLEXIBLE RAPIER WEAVING LOOM
TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM
 2. WATER JET LOOM
 3. AIR JET LOOM
TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM
 PROJECTILE LOOM
TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM
 TERRY TOWEL LOOM
TYPE OF DESIGN PATTERN
 1.Plain weave
 Normally two harness
 Using cam shedding system
TYPE OF DESIGN PATTERN
 2. Twill weave
 3. Satin – weave
 Using dobby shedding
DOBBY DESIGN
JACQUARD DESIGN
COMPUTER ADDED DESIGN
Computer added design (CAD - system)
Computer added Manufacturer (CAM –system)
CAD/CAM for Dobby
CAD/CAM for Jacquard
COMPUTER USED JACQUARD
RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE
CAM BOX IN MACHINE
CAD DESIGN SOFTWARE
What is textile
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What is textile

  • 1. WHAT IS TEXTILE? Production of Clothing, Fabric , Apparel , House Hold, Yarn, Fiber , Many Product Can Be Obtained by Textile. Second Human Need Sector Small Scale Industry to Very Huge Industry
  • 2. MAIN PRODUCTION AREA OF TEXTILE 1. Textile Raw Material Technology 2. Yarn Forming Technology 3. Fabric Forming Technology 4. Fabric Finishing Technology 5. Garment Technology
  • 3. TECHNOLOGY SUPPORTED FOR MAIN PRODUCTION AREA  Textile Testing and Quality Control  Textile Machinery & Related Mechanical  Computer & Electronic , Pneumatic  Textile Chemical Technology  Textile Factory Management & Costing  Supply Water & Waste Water Treatment  Textile Fiber Science – Natural & Synthetic  Textile Design & Color
  • 4. TRAINING PROGRAM For TEXTILE SECTOR DEVELOPMENT In MYANMAR PART -1 PRESENTATION BY – U AUNG ZIN (M.E –TEXTILE)
  • 5. အမွ်င္ ကုန္ၾကမ္း  အထည္အလိပ္ ထုတ္ကုန္မ်ား ၏ အေျခခဵ အမွ်င္မ်ား ကုိ ေအာက္ပါအတုိင္း ခြဲျခားထားပါသည္။  သဘာှ အမွ်င္မ်ား (Natural fiber)  ှါမွ်င္ (cotton fiber)  ပုိးမွ်င္ ( silk fiber)  သုိးေမႊး ( wool fiber)
  • 7.  ှါ မွ်င္ Cotton  Chemical Structure of Natural Polymer [C6 H10 O5] n Specific gravity 1.54 Strength (Tenacity) 3.0 – 4.9 g/d
  • 8. အေရးပါေသာ ဂုဏ္သတၱိမ်ား  ှါမွ်င္ အရွည္ (Fiber Length)  Staple Length  Upper Half mean length
  • 9. INFLUENCE OF FIBER LENGTH ON YARN COUNT Staple classification Length mm Length inches Spinning Count Short Less than 24 15/16 �1 Coarse Below 20 Medium 24- 28 1.1/132-1.3/32 Medium Count 20s-34s Long 28 �34 1.3/32 -1.3/8 Fine Count 34s - 60s Extra Long 34- 40 1.3/8 -1.9/16 Superfine Count 80s - 140s
  • 10. အမွ်င္ အရွည္ ညီညာမွဳ႕(LENGTH UNIFORMITY)  Length Uniformity is the ratio between the mean length and the upper- half mean length of the fibers, expressed as a percentage.  အကယ္၍ အမွ်င္အားလုဵး တူညီတဲ အရွည္ေတြ ရွိေနလွ်င္ Mean Length ႏွင္႔ Upper half mean length တူေနသျဖင္႕ Uniformitly = 100%  သုိေသာ္ U% 100 မျဖစ္ႏုိင္  U% အနည္းအမ်ား ကုိ တဖက္ပါ  ဇယားတြင္ ၾကည္႔ပါရန္
  • 11.  ှါမွ်င္ ခုိင္အား (Fiber Strength)  Breaking Strength (around 3.0 – 4.9 g/d)  Elongation at break ( 8 ~ 10 %)
  • 12.  ှါမွ်င္ ရင႔္ၾကတ္မွဳ႕ (Micronaire)  Micronaire is one of the most important Fiber characteristics for Spinner.  An indicator of Air permeability.  The best range is 3.5 to 5.5 micronaire reading.
  • 14.
  • 15. TRASH CONTENT  Lint content ( L%) = Total Lint L / M x 100  Trash content ( T%) = Trash T/M x 100  Invisible waste content ( W%)= 100 – (L +T)
  • 16.
  • 17. ှါမ်ိဴးစိတ္မ်ား 1. Gossypium Hirsulum  Up land cotton (or) Mexican cotton  90% of cotton production globally
  • 18. 2. GOSSYPIUM BARBADENSE  Extra Long staple cotton  Sea Island cotton /Pima cotton  Fiber longer than 34 mm ( 1 3/8 inches)
  • 19. 3. GOSSYPIUM ARBOREUM  Source in INDIA , PAKISTAN
  • 20. 4. GOSSYPIUM HERBACEUM  Levant cotton  African cotton
  • 22. POLYESTER FIBER  ေပၚလီအက္စတာ သည္ ေရနဵ အေျခခဵ ဓါတုေဗဒ ပစၥည္းျဖစ္ျပီး သဘာှ ဓါတ္ေငြ႔ (သုိ႔) ေရနဵ စိမ္း မွ ထုတ္လုပ္သည္။  Polyester is a synthetic polymer made of Purified Terephthalic Acid (PAT) or Dimethylterephthalate (DMT) and Mono- Ethylene Glycol (MEG)
  • 23. THE PRODUCT OF PET  Textile Grade  PSF – polyester Staple Fiber  POY- Partially Oriented Yarn  DTY- Drawn Textured Yarn  FDY- Fully Drawn Yarn  BO-PET – Biaxial –oriented polyester film  BOTTLE GRADE  A-PET – Amorphous polyester film
  • 25. OUR COUNTRY NEED PET RECYCLE ! WHO WANT TO INVEST THIS?
  • 26. POLYESTER DTY YARN PRODUCTION LINE
  • 28. VIRGIN OR RECYCLE PSF PRODUCTION LINE
  • 29. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF PSF SOURCE FROM
  • 31. IMPORTANT NOTED FOR POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN  SD = Semi Dull BRT. = Bright Trilobal / Bright Round RW = Raw White ( Natural white )  NIM = Non Intermingle LIM = Low Intermingle ( SIM = Slight / Semi Intermingled ) HIM = High Intermingle  Mino Filament  False Twist
  • 33.
  • 34. ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ စနစ္မ်ား YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM  ကမၻာ အသုဵးမ်ား ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ စနစ္ (၂) မ်ိဴး  Indirect Number System  1. Ne – English Cotton Yarn Number Number of 840 yards per pound  2. Nm – Metric Yarn Number Length in Meter per 1 gram of mass
  • 35. DIRECT NUMBER SYSTEM  3. D – dem- DENIER  Mass of Yarn in grams for length of 9000 meters  4. Tex – Tex System  Mass of Yarn in grams for length of 1000 meters  dTex – Decitex  Mass of Yarn in grams for length of 10,000 meters
  • 36. ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ ကုိ UNIT ေျပာင္းႏုိင္ပါတယ္။
  • 37. COTTON YARN MAIN SPECIFICATION  ှါခ်ည္ မ်ား တြင္ အဓိက စစ္ေဆးရ မည္႔ အရည္အေသြးဆုိင္ရာ အခ်က္မ်ား  ဿ) ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ Yarn Count  ၀) ခ်ည္ခုိင္အား Yarn Strength  ၁) တလကၼ အလိမ္ ပါှင္မွဳ႕ Twist per Inch (TPI)  ၂) ခ်ည္လုဵး ညီညာမွဳ႕ Evenness of Yarn  ၃) ခ်ည္နဵပါတ္ ခုိင္အားေျမာက္ေဖၚကိန္း C.S.P Count Strength Product
  • 39. POLYESTER STAPLE SPINNING  Polyester Spun Yarn ----- 100% & Blended with others  Couse count to fine count  Specification just same in cotton spun yarn 1. Count 2. TPI 3. Strength 4. Evenness
  • 40. POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN POY- POLYESTER PARTIALLY ORIENTED YARN  Polyester filament yarn  POY- Polyester Partially Oriented Yarn
  • 42. POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN  RW – RAW WHITE  DDB – DOPE DYED BLACK  SD – SEMI DULL  TBR – TRILOBAL BRIGHT
  • 43. POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN DTY-DRAWN TEXTURED YARN  Drawn Textured Yarn (DTY) yarn is obtained when Polyester POY is simultaneously twisted and drawn. DTY yarn is mainly used as a part of weaving and knitting of fabrics for making garments, home decorations, seat covers, bags and numerous different things. DTY yarn can be in Semi Dull or Bright or Triloble Bright depending upon the kind of areas of filaments.  Dope dyed DTY
  • 44. POLYESTER FILAMENT YARN DTY-DRAWN TEXTURED YARN  Non-Intermingle (NIM) having 0 – 10 knots/meter or Semi- Intermingle (SIM) having 40 – 50 knots/meter or High- Intermingle (HIM) having 100 – 120 knots/meter. These knots are not actually the knots tied when two threads are broken yet they are the tangle knots created by heating pressure. These Intermingle yarns, also known as Interlaced yarn
  • 46. POLYESTER FULLY DRAWN YARN (POLYESTER FDY)  It can also call Polyester Filament Yarn (PFY) or Spin Draw Yarn (SDY). FDY is mainly used as weft or weaves in making fabrics. FDY can be knitted or woven with any other filament yarn to get fabric of various different varieties. It is mainly used in Home Furnishing Fabrics, Fashion Fabrics, Denim, Terry Towel and others. FDY yarn is mainly available in 3 luster – Semi-dull (SD), Bright (BR) having circular section & Triloble Bright (TBR) having triangular cross-sections  Polyester FDY yarn can also be twisted to make Polyester Embroidery
  • 47. POLYESTER FULLY DRAWN YARN (POLYESTER FDY)
  • 48. TRAINING PROGRAM PART – 3 WEAVING DESIGN BY COMPUTER U AUNG ZIN M.E (TEXTILE)
  • 49. WEAVING FABRIC DESIGN  TYPE OF DESIGN  INTERLACING WARP AND WEFT THREAD  THERE HAVE TWO TYPE - 1. WARP OVER WEFT 2. WEFT OVER WARP  MARK IN WARP OVER WEFT
  • 50. TYPE OF DESIGN  BASIC FABRIC DESIGN  PLAIN WEAVE • PLAIN , SOME FABRICS SUCH AS , POPLIN,TAFFETA  TWILL WEAVE • FABRIC ARRANGED BY DIAGONAL PATTERN, 2/1 TWILL,3/1 TWILL, 3/3 TWILL,1/2 TWILL . THESE ARE SOFTER FABRIC THAN PLAIN WEAVE.  SATIN WEAVE OR SATEEN • FABRIC ARRANGED BY HARNESS NUMBERS PILE FABRIC • SUCH AS VELVETS, VELVETEENS
  • 52. TYPE OF WEAVING LOOMS  SHUTTLE LOOMS  CAM OR TARPET LOOM  DOBBY LOOM  JACQUARD LOOM
  • 53. TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM  SHUTTLELESS LOOMS  FOUR TYPE OF SHUTTLELESS LOOM  1. FLEXIBLE RAPIER WEAVING LOOM
  • 54. TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM  2. WATER JET LOOM  3. AIR JET LOOM
  • 55. TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM  PROJECTILE LOOM
  • 56. TYPE OF WEAVING LOOM  TERRY TOWEL LOOM
  • 57. TYPE OF DESIGN PATTERN  1.Plain weave  Normally two harness  Using cam shedding system
  • 58. TYPE OF DESIGN PATTERN  2. Twill weave  3. Satin – weave  Using dobby shedding
  • 61. COMPUTER ADDED DESIGN Computer added design (CAD - system) Computer added Manufacturer (CAM –system) CAD/CAM for Dobby CAD/CAM for Jacquard
  • 62. COMPUTER USED JACQUARD RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE
  • 63. CAM BOX IN MACHINE