Osechi ryori, said to have begun in the Heian era (from 794), is a set of small, traditional dishes served in beautiful three or four-layered lacquer bento boxes called jubako, placed at the center of the table on New Year’s Eve and remaining there through January 1st.
The Hidden Meanings Behind Japanese New Year Food - Asahi Travel Group
1. The Hidden Meanings Behind Japanese
New Year Food
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They’re pretty, they’re delicious and they’re symbolic.
With Christmas now behind us, you can see the whole of Japan getting
ready for the New Year’s, and that involves taking out the kotatsu (table
and blanket over an electric heater), securing the omochi (pounded rice
cakes) and getting ready to cook osechi ryori — Japan’s traditional food
served during the New Year’s holidays. While we see it everywhere, how
much do we actually know about osechi?
Osechi ryori, said to have begun in the Heian era (from 794), is a set of
small, traditional dishes served in beautiful three or four-layered lacquer
bento boxes called jubako, placed at the center of the table on New Year’s
Eve and remaining there through January 1st. Shared with all family and
friends, each item in the tray represents a particular wish for the next
year. Here are 12 typical food items you’ll encounter and their symbolic
meanings.
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Datemaki: Scholarship
It looks exactly like tamago yaki (Japanese rolled omelet) but once you taste it you’ll know the
difference. Datemaki, the sweet rolled omelet, is mixed with an additional ingredient called hanpen (a
fish cake) that makes it much fluffier than tamago yaki. In the past, Japanese people traditionally
rolled important documents or paintings. Due to its resemblance to the scrolled papers, the dish is
said to represent a wish for the development of culture and learning.
Kuri-kinton: Wealth
Kuri kinton (sweet chestnuts) literally means “golden dango (sweet dumpling) made of chestnuts.” As
the color is yellowish-gold, it goes without saying that it represents a wish for wealth and a fruitful
new year. You may find it difficult to eat them as they are quite sticky, but if you have a sweet
tooth — keep some of them on your plate from the beginning of the party,
Kohaku Kamaboko: Sunrise
Kamaboko (boiled fish paste) is most commonly presented as a combination of the colors — red and
white. The red color is believed to prevent evil spirits, while the white represents purity. Furthermore,
the shape of kamaboko — resembling that of the sun at daybreak— represents the first sunrise of the
new year.
Kobu-maki: Happiness
The kobu, or kelp, served around seems to have different meanings. The first of which is quite simple:
the word “kobu” is a Japanese homonym for “yorokobu,” which means joy and happiness. Kobu also
symbolizes many offspring when written as “子生,” a kanji that represents childbirth.
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Kazunoko: Fertility
Kazunoko, or herring roe, also uses easy Japanese wordplay. “Kazu” means numbers and “ko” means
children. So, kazunoko symbolizes being blessed with many children. Another reason this particular
type of fish is used, interestingly, is that herring is called “nishin” in Japanese, but if written with
different kanji, it becomes “二親” (“ni shin“), meaning two parents.
Ebi: Longevity
Picture a shrimp. It has a bent back and two antennae that look like a long beard, don’t they?
Therefore, the ebi (shrimp) on your plate is there to wish you a long life, until you have a bent back
and long beard (sorry ladies, that happens). The red color makes the osechi look even more appealing
and colorful, but it’s also said that it’s there to scare evil spirits away. Just like its friend kamaboko.
Kuromame: Health
According to Taoism, the color black works as protection against evil spirits. Moreover, as the word
“mame” originally means good health and strength in Japanese, kuromame (black beans) represents a
wish to live and work in sound health during the next year.
Tatsukuri (Gomame): Bounty
Translated directly into English, tatsukuri (dried, sweetened baby sardines) means rice farming. But
what does sardines have to do with grains and agriculture? Well, a long time ago, Japanese farmers
used dried sardines as a fertilizer for their rice fields. Its other name, gomame, literally means “50,000
grains of rice” and derives from the fact that sardine fertilizer produced a great harvest of rice. Since
then, tatsukuri has been considered as a symbol of a good harvest for the next year.
5. Renkon: Foreseeable, good future
In Buddhism, renkon (lotus root) is considered a plant of purity, as it’s believed to grow in
the heavenly pond where the Buddha lived. Lotus root represents a happy future without
obstacles. Why? Well, look through the holes in the renkon — you can clearly see the other
side without any interference.
Kikuka-kabu: Celebration & Promotion
Kabu, or turnip, are served in the shape of kiku (chrysanthemum). The chrysanthemum is
the Japanese national flower and is often associated with traditional festivities and
celebrations (as well as the imperial family). There is also a belief from China that it drives
away evil and allows you to live longer.
Gobo: Strength & Stability
Gobo (burdock root) takes a while to cut down and it’s exactly this characteristic that
landed it on the osechi dish. Just like those roots that grow so firmly in the soil,
burdock symbolizes hope for a life of strength and stability and a life of physical strength. In
other words: eat this at New Year’s and nothing can bring you down.
Tai: Auspiciousness & Celebration
Tai, or sea bream, is a fish for celebration in Japan. A play on words, it derives
from medetai, meaning “to celebrate.” The fish is eaten when a child is born or at weddings
in hope for prosperity and happiness. Make a wish as you remove those bones…
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