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Shyamoli textile Engineering college
B.Sc In Textile Engineering
Level-1,Term-1
Contents…
1. Definition of textile, fibre.
2. Classification of textile fibre.
3. Difference between Natural and man-made fibre.
4. Formation of fibre.
5. Standard construction model of textile fibre.
6. Morphology of textile fibre.
7. Crystalline and Amorphous.
8. Surface tropology.
9. Modern instruments For textile testing.
10. World Production and consumption.
Textiles:
A textile was originally a woven fabric, but the terms textile and plural
textiles are now also applied to fibres, filaments and yarns, natural and
manufactured and most products for which these are a principal raw
materials.
This definition embraces, for example, fibre based products in the
following categories; Threads, cords, ropes, braids, woven, knitted and
non-woven fabrics, lace, rest and embroidery, hosiery, knitwear and made
up apparels: house hold.
Textiles, soft furnishings and upholstery carpets and other floor-coverings:
technical, industrial, and engineering textiles including geo-textiles and
Medicare textiles
Fibre:
The material, which consists fibrous structure and length is thousand times higher
than its width is called fibre. It is also the generic term used to describe the basic
element of the material from which yarns, textile, knits other substances are made.
Most apparel fibre ranges in length from 15 to 150 mm and thickness ranges from 10
mm to 50 mm.
Fibre is the first elementary raw materials of textile manufacturing.It is either natural
or manmade staple or filaments.
Textile fibre:
The materials which consist fibrous structure and length is thousand times higher
than its width/diameter and car be spun into yearn, suitable for weaving or knitting
and easily colored by suitable dye stuff are known as textile fibre. So a textile fibre
have to contain the following characteristics
 Fibrous structure.
 Length is thousand times higher than it's
width / diameter.
 Spun able i.e. It has spinning quality.
 Sufficient strength.
 Elasticity and flexibility.
 Fineness.
 Color.
 Dye ability i.e. affinity to dye, etc.
Classification of textile fibre
Difference Between Manmade & Natural fibre:
Natural fibre Man-made fibre
a. The fibre, which we get from nature, is natural
fibre.
a. The fibres made by synthetic or regenerating
system.
b. No of molecules is not limited b. No. of molecules us limited.
c. The no. of molecules controlled by nature. The
length cannot be controlled.
c. The no. of molecules controlled by man. The
length can be controlled.
d. The fabric made from natural fibre is
comfortable and good for health.
d. Man-made fibre is uncomfortable and not good for
health.
e. It is expensive. e. It is not expensive.
f. It cannot grow everywhere. We have to
depend on nature.
f. It can grow everywhere. For production, no
dependence on nature.
g. It is not much favorable for finishing. g. It is favorable for finishing.
h. Hygienic. h. Some are not hygienic.
i. Example – cotton, jute, kapok etc. i. Example – Rayon Nylon, Lycra etc.
All fibres are not Textile Fibres:
A fibre is a unit of matter whose length us 1000 times longer than its width.
All the fibres cannot be textile fibres because to be textile fibre it should
possess some important qualities. It should have sufficient strength, length,
fineness, elasticity, crimp, friction, power to react with acid and alkalis and
power to protect the effect of biological agents etc. It should be available
too.
Cotton, jute etc. are the textile fibres as they have the above qualities but
fibres of banana tree only fibre and not textile fibres as they do not posses
quality like elasticity, strength, appearance etc. So, we can say that, all
fibres are not textile fibre.
Process sequence of textile:
Fiber/ Filament
Spinning
Yarn/Thread
KnittingWeaving
Grey fabric
Dyeing Printing
Finishing
Finished fabric
Sewing
Cutting
Garments
Natural fibres are replaced by man-made fibres:
There are two kinds of fibres available in textile field, man-made fibre and natural fibre.
The Man Made Fibres are replacing the natural one. The reasons for this change can
state below –
We know fibre quality depends upon its properties like strength, length, fineness,
elasticity, crimp, color, maturity, and action with water – alkali acids etc. In case of
manmade fibre, no can give the fibres our required properties as we want. But in case
of natural fibre, it is not possible because it get its characteristics properties from the
nature. For examples, we can get polyester (MMF) fibre both in staple and filament
form but we cannot set cotton (Natural Fiber) fibre filament form. There are also other
points. Such as –
a) The strength of MMF is greater than natural fiber.
b) The production of natural fiber depends upon natural condition. But the
properties of MMF do not depend on natural fiber
c) Man made fibre processing is easy than natural fibre.
d) The properties of MMF i.e. strength, appearance, action of acids, elasticity
etc can be changed but not in case of natural fiber
e) Man-made fibre is cheaper than natural fiber
f) Floods, droughts, natural calamity has no effect on men made fibre.
Moisture Regain:
Moisture regain is defined as the weight of water in a material
expressed as a percentage of the over dry weight of the material
or the ratio of water in a material to the oven dry weight of this
material is called moisture regain. It is donated by R.
Let, oven dry weight of a material =D
Weight of water in this material =W
Moisture Regain, R=
Moisture Content:
Moisture content is defined as the weight of water in a material express as a
percentage of the total weight of the material or The ratio of water in a material to
the total weight of the material is called moisture content. It is denoted by C.
Let, Oven dry weight of a material =D
Weight of water in this material =W
Moisture Content,
.
Textile Fibre Moisture Regain MR% Moisture Content MC%
Cotton 8.5 7.34
Jute 13.75 12.1
Viscose 11.0 9.91
Silk 11.0 9.91
Wool 16.0 13.8
Acrylic 1.5 0
Flax 12.4 10.4
Hemp 12.4 10.4
Acetate 6.0 0
Polyester 0.4 0
Nylon 4.0 3.1
Properties of a Textile fibre
 Physical Properties:
i. Length
ii. Tensile strength
iii. Fineness
iv. Flexibility
v. Cohesiveness
vi. Crimp
vii. Elastic recovery
vii. Specific recovery
viii. Effect of moisture
 Chemical Properties:
i.Effect of Acids
ii. Effect of Alkalis
iii.Effects of organic solvents
iv. Resistance to insects
v. Resistance to Micro-Organism
vii. Effect of Sunlight
 Tharmal properties:
 Electrical properties:
N.B: Description have to Read from hard copy
Formation of Fibre:
Most of the fibres are constructed by long chain of polymer molecules which lay
alongside each other and are cemented together by different bonds.A polymer is a
large molecule composed of hundred to thousand small chemical repeating
structural units.The molecular weight of a polymer is proportional to the degree of
polymerization and structre of monomer.
Cotton ,Flax,Silk,Wool fibre is formed in nature by natural way of
polymerization.Generally Natural polymer has long chain,which means it
constructed with many repeating units.The structure of polymer depends on
cultivation and environment of growing up period.
Synthetic fibres are formed by polymerization process of one or more than one
monomer,thousands of monomers are coupled together by poly-addition or poly-
condensation process.The structure of synthetic polymers depends on the
manufacturing process and the character and origin of monomer.
.
Conti…
Regenerated fibres are formed from natural polymer through a suitable man-
made process.The structure of regenerated fibres depend on manufacturing
process and the character of natural polymer.
Cellulosic man made fibres are made from natural cellulosic polymers,which
are collected from plant.To enable cellulose to be spun it has to bedessolved
by appropriate solvent.
The principles of man-made fibre production:
 Convertion of the fibre forming substance into a fluid by solution or melting
 Extrusion of the fluid through spinnerets.
 Solidification of the extruded filaments.
Standrd construction model of textile fibre
.
Fig. shows a standard construction model of textile fibre.It is
cleare that a fibre is composed of many fibril bundles and each
fibril is constructed by many polymer chains.these polymer
chains are arranged im differents orders.Some are oriented and
parallal arranged and some are disoriented which are known as
crystalline and amorphous resion of fibre respectly.
Morphology of Textile fibre:
The long polymer chain of a fibre is constructed by many small
repeated units. The average number of of repeating unit of a
polymer chain is called degree of polymerization(DP).
A fibril is a composed of 50-20000 repeating units, which is a long
chain of macromolecules and the bulk of fibril bundle contains
amorphous and crystalline regions depending on the arrengment
of th polymer chain molecules.
Finally the fibre strand is constructed with many fibrillar bundle.
Physical properties depends on the inner structure of the fibre. All
fibres are mainly constructed by linear polymers which lie
alongside each other and are stayed together by several bonds.
Crystalline and Amorphous:
Crystalline regions are the regions ,where polymer chains are arranged
in regular order and the amorphous region is a region where polymer
chain is stayed in disorder form, which is also a weak part of the fibre
Surface tropology:
The outer surface of natural textile fibres is variable.Cotton is convoluted
jute and flax are bonded.Wool has scaled and silk is smooth at outer surface.
Some Natural Fibre Name:
These Fibres are scare and
expensive
 Abaca
 Coir
 Hemp
 Jute
 Kenaf
 Ramie
 Sisal
 Angora
 Cashmere
 Mohair
Cross sectional view
Different fibres are of different x-sectional shape.Change in x-
sectional shape into round one gives better results.
 Cotton - Ribbon shape
 Silk - Triangular
 Rayon - Star shape
 Polyester – Round/oval
 Flax -Hexagonal
 Jute -
 Nylon -may be in any shape
Longitudinal view of some fibres
Modern Instruments for textile fibre testing:
There are many science ,technology and instruments are used to determine and
analysis the property of fibres.
SN N8ame of instruments Measured property
1 HVI Length,strength,fineness,color,trash grad
2 AFIS length.,trash and grade
3 X-Ray diffraction system Amorphous and crystalline part
4 Vibromate Individual strength of fibre
5 IR or FTIR-spectroscope Chemical composition& structure
6 GPC(gel-permeation-chromatography) Mass-molecular distribution
7 DSC(differential scanning calorimetr Thermal properties
8 TGA(thermo gravimetric analysis) Thermal properties
9 SEM and AFM Surface tropography
10 Zeta potential meter Charge on fibre surface
Requirements of fibre forming polymers:
 Hydrophilic
 Chemically resistant
 Linear
 Long
 Capable of being oriented
Global Fibre Market in 2014:
Total = 89.4 million ton
wool = 1.3%
cotton = 29.4%
MM = 6.7%
Synthetics = 62.6%
Fibre
Fibre

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Fibre

  • 1. Shyamoli textile Engineering college B.Sc In Textile Engineering Level-1,Term-1
  • 2. Contents… 1. Definition of textile, fibre. 2. Classification of textile fibre. 3. Difference between Natural and man-made fibre. 4. Formation of fibre. 5. Standard construction model of textile fibre. 6. Morphology of textile fibre. 7. Crystalline and Amorphous. 8. Surface tropology. 9. Modern instruments For textile testing. 10. World Production and consumption.
  • 3. Textiles: A textile was originally a woven fabric, but the terms textile and plural textiles are now also applied to fibres, filaments and yarns, natural and manufactured and most products for which these are a principal raw materials. This definition embraces, for example, fibre based products in the following categories; Threads, cords, ropes, braids, woven, knitted and non-woven fabrics, lace, rest and embroidery, hosiery, knitwear and made up apparels: house hold. Textiles, soft furnishings and upholstery carpets and other floor-coverings: technical, industrial, and engineering textiles including geo-textiles and Medicare textiles
  • 4. Fibre: The material, which consists fibrous structure and length is thousand times higher than its width is called fibre. It is also the generic term used to describe the basic element of the material from which yarns, textile, knits other substances are made. Most apparel fibre ranges in length from 15 to 150 mm and thickness ranges from 10 mm to 50 mm. Fibre is the first elementary raw materials of textile manufacturing.It is either natural or manmade staple or filaments. Textile fibre: The materials which consist fibrous structure and length is thousand times higher than its width/diameter and car be spun into yearn, suitable for weaving or knitting and easily colored by suitable dye stuff are known as textile fibre. So a textile fibre have to contain the following characteristics
  • 5.  Fibrous structure.  Length is thousand times higher than it's width / diameter.  Spun able i.e. It has spinning quality.  Sufficient strength.  Elasticity and flexibility.  Fineness.  Color.  Dye ability i.e. affinity to dye, etc.
  • 7. Difference Between Manmade & Natural fibre: Natural fibre Man-made fibre a. The fibre, which we get from nature, is natural fibre. a. The fibres made by synthetic or regenerating system. b. No of molecules is not limited b. No. of molecules us limited. c. The no. of molecules controlled by nature. The length cannot be controlled. c. The no. of molecules controlled by man. The length can be controlled. d. The fabric made from natural fibre is comfortable and good for health. d. Man-made fibre is uncomfortable and not good for health. e. It is expensive. e. It is not expensive. f. It cannot grow everywhere. We have to depend on nature. f. It can grow everywhere. For production, no dependence on nature. g. It is not much favorable for finishing. g. It is favorable for finishing. h. Hygienic. h. Some are not hygienic. i. Example – cotton, jute, kapok etc. i. Example – Rayon Nylon, Lycra etc.
  • 8. All fibres are not Textile Fibres: A fibre is a unit of matter whose length us 1000 times longer than its width. All the fibres cannot be textile fibres because to be textile fibre it should possess some important qualities. It should have sufficient strength, length, fineness, elasticity, crimp, friction, power to react with acid and alkalis and power to protect the effect of biological agents etc. It should be available too. Cotton, jute etc. are the textile fibres as they have the above qualities but fibres of banana tree only fibre and not textile fibres as they do not posses quality like elasticity, strength, appearance etc. So, we can say that, all fibres are not textile fibre.
  • 9. Process sequence of textile: Fiber/ Filament Spinning Yarn/Thread KnittingWeaving Grey fabric Dyeing Printing Finishing Finished fabric Sewing Cutting Garments
  • 10. Natural fibres are replaced by man-made fibres: There are two kinds of fibres available in textile field, man-made fibre and natural fibre. The Man Made Fibres are replacing the natural one. The reasons for this change can state below – We know fibre quality depends upon its properties like strength, length, fineness, elasticity, crimp, color, maturity, and action with water – alkali acids etc. In case of manmade fibre, no can give the fibres our required properties as we want. But in case of natural fibre, it is not possible because it get its characteristics properties from the nature. For examples, we can get polyester (MMF) fibre both in staple and filament form but we cannot set cotton (Natural Fiber) fibre filament form. There are also other points. Such as –
  • 11. a) The strength of MMF is greater than natural fiber. b) The production of natural fiber depends upon natural condition. But the properties of MMF do not depend on natural fiber c) Man made fibre processing is easy than natural fibre. d) The properties of MMF i.e. strength, appearance, action of acids, elasticity etc can be changed but not in case of natural fiber e) Man-made fibre is cheaper than natural fiber f) Floods, droughts, natural calamity has no effect on men made fibre.
  • 12. Moisture Regain: Moisture regain is defined as the weight of water in a material expressed as a percentage of the over dry weight of the material or the ratio of water in a material to the oven dry weight of this material is called moisture regain. It is donated by R. Let, oven dry weight of a material =D Weight of water in this material =W Moisture Regain, R=
  • 13. Moisture Content: Moisture content is defined as the weight of water in a material express as a percentage of the total weight of the material or The ratio of water in a material to the total weight of the material is called moisture content. It is denoted by C. Let, Oven dry weight of a material =D Weight of water in this material =W Moisture Content,
  • 14. . Textile Fibre Moisture Regain MR% Moisture Content MC% Cotton 8.5 7.34 Jute 13.75 12.1 Viscose 11.0 9.91 Silk 11.0 9.91 Wool 16.0 13.8 Acrylic 1.5 0 Flax 12.4 10.4 Hemp 12.4 10.4 Acetate 6.0 0 Polyester 0.4 0 Nylon 4.0 3.1
  • 15. Properties of a Textile fibre  Physical Properties: i. Length ii. Tensile strength iii. Fineness iv. Flexibility v. Cohesiveness vi. Crimp vii. Elastic recovery vii. Specific recovery viii. Effect of moisture
  • 16.  Chemical Properties: i.Effect of Acids ii. Effect of Alkalis iii.Effects of organic solvents iv. Resistance to insects v. Resistance to Micro-Organism vii. Effect of Sunlight  Tharmal properties:  Electrical properties: N.B: Description have to Read from hard copy
  • 17. Formation of Fibre: Most of the fibres are constructed by long chain of polymer molecules which lay alongside each other and are cemented together by different bonds.A polymer is a large molecule composed of hundred to thousand small chemical repeating structural units.The molecular weight of a polymer is proportional to the degree of polymerization and structre of monomer. Cotton ,Flax,Silk,Wool fibre is formed in nature by natural way of polymerization.Generally Natural polymer has long chain,which means it constructed with many repeating units.The structure of polymer depends on cultivation and environment of growing up period. Synthetic fibres are formed by polymerization process of one or more than one monomer,thousands of monomers are coupled together by poly-addition or poly- condensation process.The structure of synthetic polymers depends on the manufacturing process and the character and origin of monomer. .
  • 18. Conti… Regenerated fibres are formed from natural polymer through a suitable man- made process.The structure of regenerated fibres depend on manufacturing process and the character of natural polymer. Cellulosic man made fibres are made from natural cellulosic polymers,which are collected from plant.To enable cellulose to be spun it has to bedessolved by appropriate solvent. The principles of man-made fibre production:  Convertion of the fibre forming substance into a fluid by solution or melting  Extrusion of the fluid through spinnerets.  Solidification of the extruded filaments.
  • 19. Standrd construction model of textile fibre .
  • 20. Fig. shows a standard construction model of textile fibre.It is cleare that a fibre is composed of many fibril bundles and each fibril is constructed by many polymer chains.these polymer chains are arranged im differents orders.Some are oriented and parallal arranged and some are disoriented which are known as crystalline and amorphous resion of fibre respectly.
  • 21. Morphology of Textile fibre: The long polymer chain of a fibre is constructed by many small repeated units. The average number of of repeating unit of a polymer chain is called degree of polymerization(DP). A fibril is a composed of 50-20000 repeating units, which is a long chain of macromolecules and the bulk of fibril bundle contains amorphous and crystalline regions depending on the arrengment of th polymer chain molecules. Finally the fibre strand is constructed with many fibrillar bundle. Physical properties depends on the inner structure of the fibre. All fibres are mainly constructed by linear polymers which lie alongside each other and are stayed together by several bonds.
  • 22. Crystalline and Amorphous: Crystalline regions are the regions ,where polymer chains are arranged in regular order and the amorphous region is a region where polymer chain is stayed in disorder form, which is also a weak part of the fibre
  • 23. Surface tropology: The outer surface of natural textile fibres is variable.Cotton is convoluted jute and flax are bonded.Wool has scaled and silk is smooth at outer surface.
  • 24. Some Natural Fibre Name: These Fibres are scare and expensive  Abaca  Coir  Hemp  Jute  Kenaf  Ramie  Sisal  Angora  Cashmere  Mohair
  • 25. Cross sectional view Different fibres are of different x-sectional shape.Change in x- sectional shape into round one gives better results.  Cotton - Ribbon shape  Silk - Triangular  Rayon - Star shape  Polyester – Round/oval  Flax -Hexagonal  Jute -  Nylon -may be in any shape
  • 26. Longitudinal view of some fibres
  • 27. Modern Instruments for textile fibre testing: There are many science ,technology and instruments are used to determine and analysis the property of fibres. SN N8ame of instruments Measured property 1 HVI Length,strength,fineness,color,trash grad 2 AFIS length.,trash and grade 3 X-Ray diffraction system Amorphous and crystalline part 4 Vibromate Individual strength of fibre 5 IR or FTIR-spectroscope Chemical composition& structure 6 GPC(gel-permeation-chromatography) Mass-molecular distribution 7 DSC(differential scanning calorimetr Thermal properties 8 TGA(thermo gravimetric analysis) Thermal properties 9 SEM and AFM Surface tropography 10 Zeta potential meter Charge on fibre surface
  • 28. Requirements of fibre forming polymers:  Hydrophilic  Chemically resistant  Linear  Long  Capable of being oriented
  • 29. Global Fibre Market in 2014: Total = 89.4 million ton wool = 1.3% cotton = 29.4% MM = 6.7% Synthetics = 62.6%