Harsha Parihar,Fashion Designer

WOMEN WEAR
Harsha Parihar
M.Sc. Fashion Technology
+1year diploma

FASHION DICTATED BY ROYALTY
Until the Industrial Revolution, people belonged to one of two main classes : the wealthy landowners or the poor laborers and farmers.
Because wealthy was afford to wear fashionable clothes. Royalty, at the top of both the social and economic ladders, set fashion trends
while other members of the aristocracy followed their example in order to gain approval
At the turn of the eighteenth century, members of King Louis XIV’s court became the arbiters of taste, making Paris the fashion capital of
Europe. The textile industry grew in Lyons and other French cities, supplying the court with silk fabrics, ribbons, and laces. dressmakers
and tailors, sponsored by the wealthy, developed their skills to a high level using this beautiful materials.

HAND SEWING BY DRESSMAKERS AND TAILORS
Dresses and suits for individually sewn by dressmaker or tailors to their employers’ specifications. The identities of personal
dressmakers were secrets guarded by the wealthy. No one wanted to share the talents of clever dressmakers for fear or losing them
Rose Bertin (ber-tan’), dressmakers Queen Marie Antoinette was known only because she was made the official court minister of fashion

FASHION DEVELOPMENT
Fashion, As We Know It Is A Relatively New Concept. In Ancient And Medieval Times, Clothing Styles Remained Practically Unchanged
For A Century At A Time. Fashion Change Become To Accelerate During The Renaissance, As Western Civilization Discovered Different
Cultures, Customs, And Costumes . As New Fabrics And Ideas Became Available, People Craved More New Things. The Pace Of
Fashion Change Has Continued To Increase.

GROWTH OF COUTUREFrance became the center of fashion due to the patronage of the royal court and the development of the silk industry there. In France, the art
of dressmaking was known as couture (koo-tour’). The male designer was a couturier (koo-tu-ree-ay’); his female counterpart was a
couturie’re’ (koo-tu-ree-air’).

EFFECTS OF THE INDUSTRIAL
REVOLUTION ON FASHION
Growth of the textile industry
Early America had virtually no textile or fashion industry. Most materials were imported from abroad : silks from France, India and China, and
woolens, calicoes, and cashmeres from Britain.
The modem textile industry, which enabled more fabrics to be produced in less time, began in England with John Kay’s development of the
flying shuttle in 1733, James Hargreaves’s invention of the spinning jenny in 1764, Richard Arkwright’s water frame in 1769, and Edmund
Cartwright’s power loom in 1785.

Christian Dior ( chris- tee-ahn’ Dec- or ) showed his first collection in 1947 and was an instant success. In a reaction against the wartime
silhouette, women adopted this New Look with longer, flare skirts; smooth, rounded, sloping shoulders; and tiny fitted waists.
Within a few seasons, Dior’s name became a household word, and he was doing as much business as the rest of the couture combined.
Elsa Schiaparelli ( ska-pa-rell’-ee ) was the trendsetter of European fashion in the 1930s. Schiaparelli moved the center of interest to the
shoulders, which she began to widen, accentuating them by pleats, padding, or braid, a silhouette that remained popular through World War
II
IMPORTANT TRENDSETTING
DESIGNERS

Jean Patou ( Gsahnpa- too’ ) created the famous Flapper look in 1925 bvaccentuating the hipline strengthening a straight silhouette, and
making shorter skirts with uneven hemlines. He confirmed that the young, independent women was the new ideal.
Paul Poiret (pwah- ray ), whose tubular dresses liberated women from corsets, was the first Paris couturier of this century to become a
trendsetter.

SOME OF MY ASSIGNMENT OF FABRIC
MANIPULATION

PHULKARI
SOME OF MY ASSIGNMENT OF INDIAN
TRADITIONAL EMBROIDERY

Kantha

Kasuti

Corel draw is a vector graphic software it is used for graphic designing in this software I have learned how to use vector graphic software to
give perfect look to my illustration through shape tool logo design, text editing typography, cover pages, layouts and pattern making with the
help of editing tool use 2 point curve, 3 point curve, mathematical defined curved line, smooth looking graphics saved on bitmap file format
design are easy to select color, move re-size and many other effect and tools..
COREL DRAW

GRAPHIC DESIGN
C o c o C h a n e l b o y i s h l o o k s t y l e c l a s s i c
f a s h i o n d e s i g n p r i n t c o l o u r t e x t u r e e l e g a n t l o o k
f a s h i o n s h o w m a g a z i n e p h o t o s h o p c r e a t i v e i n s p i r a t i o n
f a b r i c t r o p i c a l f l o w e r s i l k m a d e t o o r d e r , s i m p l i c i t y
e l e g a n t l o o k , c o n t e m p o r a r y l o o k a r t i s t i c l o o k w a r m c o l o u r
s i l k , c o r e l d r a w f r e e h a n d , a r t i s t i c m e d i a t e x t w e b s i t e
f a s h i o n h i s t o r y s i m p l i c i t y h i g h e r e n d f a s h i o n c u l t u r e , l o o k , f a s h i o n ,
s t y l e , c o l o u r p r i n t f r e e h a n d e l e g a n t f a s h i o n c l a s s i c n e w l o o k
Co c o Ch a n e l b o yis h lo o k s t yle cla s sic in s p ira tio n yo ke re a d ym a d e a rt p ro f ile
fa s h io n d e s ig n p rin t co lo u r te x tu re e le g a n t lo o k h ig h p ro file
f a s h io n s h o w m a g a z in e p h o to s h o p c re a tiv e in s p ira t io n
f a b ric tro p ic a l flo w e r s ilk m a d e to o rd e r, sim p licit y
e le g a n t lo o k , co n te m p o ra ry lo o k a rtis tic lo o k w a rm c o lo u r
silk , co re ld ra w fre e h a n d , a rt ist ic m e d ia t e xt w e b sit e
fa s h io n h is to ry s im p licit y h ig h e r e n d fa s h io n cu lt u re , lo o k, f a sh io n ,
s ty le , c o lo u r p rin t
C oc o C h a ne l bo y i s h
l ook
sty l e
c l a ss i c
f a s hi o n d es i g n
p r i n t co l ou r tex t ur e
e l eg an t l oo k
f a s hi o n
s h ow
m a g az i n e
p h otos h op
c r ea t i v e i ns p i r at i on
f a b r i c
t r o pi c a l f l o w e r s i l k
m
a de t o
or d er, s i m
p l i c i t y
el e ga n t l oo k , c on t em por a r y l ook ar t i st i c
l o ok
w a rm
c ol o ur
s i l k , c or el dr a w
f r eeh an d , ar t i st i c m
ed i a t e x t w eb si t e
f a s h i on
hi s t or y
s i m p l i c i t y
hi gh er en d
f as h i on
c ul t ur e, l o ok , fa sh i o n,
s t y l e, c ol ou r p ri nt fr e eha n d
el eg an t
f a s hi on
cl a s si c
n ew
l ook
Co c o C ha n el b oy i sh
l o ok
s t y l e
cl as si c
f a sh i on
d esi g n
pr i n t c ol o ur t e x tu r e
el eg a n t l ook
fa sh i on
s ho w
m
a ga z i n e ph ot osh o p
c r ea t i v e i n s pi r a t i o n
fa br i c
t r op i c a l f l ow er si l k m
a d e t o
o r der , si m
p l i c i t y
el eg a nt l o ok , c on t e m p or a r y
l o ok
a r t i s t i c
l ook
w a r m
c o l ou r
si l k , c or el d r a w
f r eeh a n d , a r ti s t i c m
ed i a
t ex t w ebs i t e
f a sh i o n
h i s t or y si m pl i ci t y
h i g h er e nd
f a sh i o n
c u l t u r e, l oo k , f as h i on ,
s t y l e , c o l ou r pr i n t f r eeh a n d
el e ga n t f a sh i on
c l a ss i c
n ew
l o ok
Coco Chanel boyish look styleclassic
fashion design pr int colour textur e elegant look
fashion show magazinephotoshop cr eative inspiration
fabr ic tr opical flower silk made to or der, simplicity
elegant look, contempor ar y look artistic look w ar m colour
silk, cor eldraw freehand, artistic media text website
fashion histor y simplicity higher end fashion cultur e, look , fashion,
style, colour pr int freehand elegant fashion classic new look
Coco Chanel boyish look style classic magazinevogue websit e
fashion design pr int colour textur eelegant look fashion shows
fashion show magazine photoshop cr eativeinspir ation coco chanel
fabr ic tr opical flow er silk madeto or der, simplicity creativelook
elegant look , contemporar y look ar tistic look war m colour style
silk , cor eldr aw
fr eehand, ar tistic media text w ebsite pr int colour textur e
fashion histor y simplicity higher end fashion cultur e, look , fashion,
style, colour pr int fr eehand elegant fashion classic new look
CocoChanelboyishlookstyleclassic
fashiondesignprintcolourtextureelegantlook
fashionshow
m
agazinephotoshop
creative
inspiration
fabrictropicalflow
ersilkmadeto
order,simplicity
elegantlook,contemporarylookartistic
look
warm
colour
silk,coreldraw
freehand,artisticm
edia
textwebsite
fashionhistorysim
plicityhigherendfashionculture,look,fashion,
style,colourprintfreehand
elegantfashionclassic
new
look

Harsha Parihar
M.Sc.Fashion Technology
2015 - 2016
GRAPHIC DESIGN

FA
SH
IO
N
TECHNO
LO
G
Y
Harsha Parihar
M.sc.Fashion technology
2015-2017
2015 - 2017
GRAPHIC DESIGN

Princess Panel
DRAPING
Waist Dart

CILENT BOARD
Make a salwar kameez for a lecturer in engineering college age 30 to 32 years using any
surface design technique ?
MY CLIENT
CLIENT NAME MRS. REENA CHOUHAN
AGE 31
OCCUPATION LECTURER
WORKING HOUR 9 to 5
OBSERVATION
CALM ,CONFIDENT, INTELLIGENT ,QUALITY , ENERGY ,POWER, BALANCE

C 91
M 75
Y 45
K 71
C100
M 83
Y33
K36
C 0
M 60
Y 100
K 0
C 0
M 0
Y 0
K 100
C 0
M 0
Y0
K80
C 0
M 20
Y60
K20
C 0
M 60
Y 100
K 0
C 75
M 68
Y 65
K 90
C40
M 100
Y0
K0
C 22
M 46
Y100
K3
C 33
M 89
Y100
K49
C84
M 73
Y60
K81
IDEA GENERATION

C 0
M 60
Y 100
K 0
C 0
M 0
Y 0
K 100
C 75
M 68
Y 65
K 90
FINAL CREATIONS
SPECIFICATION SHEET
PRINCESS PANEL BLACK
KURTA
EMBROIDERY
SPIDER WEB (BASIC
SITICH)
NECKLINE ROUND
PLAIN SLEEVES
PANTS STYLE ORANGE
SALWAR

basic block
front
size 34”
basic block
back
size 34”
center panel
size 34”
side panel
size 34”
cut 2 piece
side panel
size 34”
cut 2 piece
center panel
size 34”
back
size34”
basic sleeves
size 34”
backfront
FINAL GARMENT DRAFT

basic block
front
size 34”
basic block
back
size 34”
center panel
size 34”
side panel
size 34”
cut 2 piece
side panel
size 34”
cut 2 piece
center panel
size 34”
back
size34”
basic sleeves
size 34”
backfront
ESTIMATION SHEET

TYPES OF FABRIC
Crepe
It is crease free fabric and looks
so rich and this fabric is mostly
preferred by Indian women.
Cotton
Cotton salwar kameez is light
weighted and commonly used .
Cotton salwar kameez is preferred
in summer season.
Georgette
This material can be worn for
daily purpose as well as party
wear. It is embroidery friendly
stuff and can be changed easily
according to the design of salwar
kameez.

TYPES OF SURFACE DESIGN
TECHNIQUES

LINE- A line is a series of connecting point. It is the simple design element line have direction length width. Line creates movement by
leading eye up down, side to side, line may be straight , curved, bent, horizontal, vertical, diagonal.
Line - decorative and structural
Seam line hemline, panel tucks godets dart gores yoke plackets pleats neckline
ELEMENTS OF DESIGN

Colors are used in many ways to assert recognition because they are fairly easy to read and understand. Colors have a demonstrable
psychological effect The first thing that is ever noticed about a garment is the color. Color is the most important of all the design element.
It is important to understand the basic relationship of color.
COLOR TERMINOLOGY
Color schemes
Contrast Complimentary Opposite Color Scheme
Simple complimentary
color scheme
Double complimentary
color scheme
Triad complimentary
color scheme
Split complimentary color
scheme
Neutral Color Scheme
Accented
neutral color
scheme
Achromatic
color scheme
Related Color Scheme
Analogous color
scheme
Adjacent color
scheme
Monochromatic color scheme
Polychromatic
color scheme
Warm Color Cool Color

GRADATION
SHADE ( RED + BLACK)
TINT ( RED + WHITE)
TONE ( RED + GREY)
Monochromatic a color scheme where we use tints, tones, and shade of any single color to design anything. This color scheme tends to
make a person appear tall if his/her height is short.
SHADE( RED + BLACK)

White Purity Truth, Peace ,Innocence, Simplicity, Coldness, Virginity, Birth, Freedom ,Elegance, Honesty.
Black Intelligence, Mystery, Corruption, Forceful Rebellion, Modernity, Power, Formality, Elegance, Evil, Death, Quality
Grey Confident, sophisticate, dignity, seriousness, Elegance, Respect, Wisdom, Old, Bored , Dullness, Neutral, Pollution, Formal,
Military, Education.
Orange Happiness, Powerful, Inviting, Friendship, Rich, Quiet, Classic, Reliability, Energy, Balance, Heat, Enthusiasm
,Playfulness, Warming, Optimisms , Abundance
Yellow Joy, Happiness, radiant, quiet, bright, strong, bold, electric, feminine, rising, Summer, Illness, Fertility, Warming.
EFFECT OF COLORS

Red Life, Passion, Energy, Love, Warmness, Strength, Boldness, Beauty, Awareness, Speed, Danger, Anger, Wealth, Luck, Marriage.
Green Nature, Fertility, Environment, Wealth, Generosity, Eternal life, Jealously, Growth, Heath, Calmness, restful.
Pink Tough, Sweetness, Softness, Paleness, Natural, Gentle, Youth, Innocence, Reality, Overpowering.
Purple Cool, Challenging, Magic, Surprise Wisdom, Confusion, Pride, Royalty, Instability Nobility, Spirituality, Creativity, Mystery.
Blue Water, Reliable, strong, Ocean, Peace, Unity, Calmness, Confident ,Conserved, Loyalty, Idealism, Dependability, holy,
Victory, Innocent, overpowering
EFFECT OF COLORS

LINES
A line has various functions:
Movement is created by moving line the eye along the line up and down, side
to side or curved, vertical ,horizontal and diagonal around the garment.

Straight lines are seen on seams ,yokes, edges, dart, panels, zippers, tucks, rows of buttons and braids.
Straight lines signify neatness, strength power , stability, dignity and give effect of slimness.
Curved lines emphasize body curves and body look rounder give effect of feminity, confidence, gracefulness movement, richness elegance
and gentle youthfulness.
Perpendicular lines can be seen on yokes, darts, and trims. Perpendicular lines of the yoke attracting to the dress. Small shapes and
space add interest than a regular shape and space.
LINES

Dominating thick lines seen on borders, bands, belts, cuffs, add weight and convey forcefulness, expansion, roughness, assertiveness
and masculinity.
Horizontal lines are seen on yokes, waistlines, hemlines necklines and sleeves. It has shortening and widening effect. Psychologically, it
shows flatness, balance, rest and peace.
Vertical lines are seen on side seams, pleats, fabric pattern and trims. It lengthens and being bold, sophisticated, strong and elegant,
vertical lines show forces, gravitational pull, mobility, flatness, balance and rest.
Diagonal lines are seen on pockets, panels, seams, fabric patterns, necklines, collar lapels, flared trousers, A-line skirts, raglan sleeves
are interesting and dramatic in effect. It has a slimming effect if more vertical and widening effect if more horizontal.

Proportion is the way all the parts in a design related to each other so the person looks
tall, slim and more youthful Scale is an aspect which is mainly dealing with fashion
accessories a huge hand bag on a small woman look oversized while a handbag on a
large woman look different and makes wearer look larger.
Similarly the size of pocket color, sleeves, cuff, peplums, belt, button, fabric prints, texture
and trims. Should all be as per body size of the person wear it.
Contrast can be use in small amount of the dress add interest and attention. A contrast
occur when two or more totally unrelated features occur in one design. Contrast
sometimes becomes very important in a design.
Balance weight of the different elements is the design is equally distributed to create
balance. The concept of visual balance is similar to that of physical balance were
stability is achieve when the part of design are evenly distributed around a balance line
or point.
Balance is of two types formal or informal:
4
4
7
1
1
7
Formal balance is similar and occur when one side is repeated another on other side of
axis or to become a mirror image formal balance draw attention to the feature if repeated.
Informal balance is a similar and occur when object on both side of the axis are equal in
visual weight but not identical his difference may be simple variation or strongly
contrasting. Structural balance in a garment can be adjust by moving of seams, yokes,
panels, darts by adding or subtracting fullness and also by arranging openings.
PRINCIPLE OF DESIGN

UNITY
All elements of design strive to have unity when place together in a pieces of art. The elements of principle of design should be so
placed that neither should be over done .There should be no competition between the elements. A completely united design is that
which spoils with the removal or addition of even a single dot, line, shape, color or texture. The elements are placed in perfect
harmony with each other.
Rhythmic effect created by frills of the dress

TEXTILE STUDIES
For any fashion designer its very important to study about the fabric and its properties For design new cloth designer should be aware
about the fabric finishes should be aware about fabric finishes like fire repellency, water repellency, aroma fabric ,anti wrinkle property
of fabric.
Fiber Classification :-
Fiber is a raw material of yarn it gives us different sources. It comes from various sources such as Natural and Man-made fibers.
Natural fiber
Stable fibers
Short fibers (cm and
inches)
Man - made fiber
Filament fiber
Long fibers (meters and feet).
Silk is only natural filament
which is filament.
Weaving Knitting Non - woven
FABRIC FORMATION (TECHNIQUES)

WEAVING
is the process of interlacement of two sets of yarn warp ( length wise running yarn) and weft(cross wise running yarn).
KNITTING
is the process of interloping with single yarn it s done by flatbed machine, circular machine and with knitting needles
NON – WOVEN
is the process entangling fiber and filament mechanically, thermally, chemical they are flat, porous, sheets that are made directly from
separate fiber or from or from molten plastic or plastic film.
Knitted
Warp knitting Weft knitting
Tricot Single jerseyRachel
Purl Rib
Interlock
SatinPlain
Sateen
Twill Jacquard
Honeycomb
Weaves
FABRIC FORMATION

Weaving structure
Plain Weave the simplest of the weave and the most common. Consist of interlacing of warp and filling yarn in over one and
under one.
Twill weave
Plain weave
Twill weave
A distinct design in the form of diagonals is characteristic of the second basic weave twill.
SATIN WEAVE
A four shaft with warp floats in interrupted diagonal. Variation of plain weave in satin weave.
Satin weave

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