Dezyne E'cole College student portfolio made after her 1year duration of study at the college. Bsc.Fashion Technology student are given technical inputs to make them industry ready . Presenting her work just after 9 months of her period of study at Dezyne E'cole College , Ajmer.
2. Project Report on
Women’s Western Wear
Submitted To
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards the partial fulfillment for the award of Diploma in Fashion Technology
As technical knowledge development of Women's Wear included with the Bachelors Degree Program of
Fashion Technology
By
Shivani Sethi
Dezyne E’cole College
106/10, Civil Line, Ajmer
0145-2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2014-2017
3. Dezyne E’cole College
Civil Line, Ajmer
www.dezyneecole.com
The Project of Ms. Shivani Sethi has been checked & has been graded as-
Thanking You
Principal
(Seal & Signature)
4. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of tremendous value and enabled me
to complete this project successfully.
I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’cole who gave me an opportunity to show my
abilities by working on this project on the esteem organization.
SHIVANI SETHI
Bachelors of Science in Fashion Technology
5. Content :-
Fashion as a Person’s Image
Fashion Industry
Learning Experience
Foundation Design Colours
Colours: Impression On Human Mind
Warm and Cool Colours
Comparing Value of Colours
Colour Assignment
Gradation
Coral Draw
Text Using Coral Draw
Fashion Illustration
Introduction To Textiles
Textile Studies
Formation Of Fabric
Fabric’s Introduction
Types Of Fabric
Garment Construction
6. Content :-
Tools And Equipment's
Pattern Making Symbols
Notches
Landmarks
Measurements
Women's Bodice Block
Women's Skirt Block
Women's Sleeve Block
Dart Manipulation
Single Dart Series
Double Dart Series
Seams And Hemlines
Draping
Fabric Manipulation
Principle Of Design
Elements Of Design
Selling Of The Right Colours
Tribal Art: Rajasthan
7. Fashion as a Person’s Image
Fashion is more than wearing good clothes it is about presenting a person’s image in the society,
we generally see people accepting fashion due to the peer pressure, image in the society and
when a person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons behind what we wear.
Protection from cold, rain and snow: - mountain climbers wear high-tech outwear to avoid
frostbite and over- exposure.
Physical attention:-many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.
Emotions: - we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when we’re upset.
Religious expression: - orthodox Jewish men wear long black suits and Islamic women cover
every part of their body except their eyes.
Identification and tradition: - judges wear robes, people in the military wear uniforms, brides
wear long white dresses.
8. Fashion Industry
Within the sphere of technology industries,
design technology is perhaps the fastest
growing today. With new technologies
emerging rapidly and industries changing
complexion, more and more job
opportunities are up for the taking. It is
estimated that India will have a shortfall of
five lakh people in the design sector by
2010- 11, but not all graduates will be
employable. Thus bringing the gap
between talent and the skills required by
the industry is important. Today, only one
in every four designers is employable and
only 10% of the design graduates manage
to get employment in the design industry.
Hence the students should understand the
basic requirement of the industry and
exhibit that ability.
9. This is what I learnt here at Dezyne E’cole
College Creating fashion doesn’t just entail
a vivid imagination and instinct for
creativity. It also involves many decisions
and myriad techniques, focused on a
central idea. Dezyne E’cole’s Fashion
Design has made me build a strong
foundation in terms of design sense,
conceptualisation, independent research,
creative application and individual artistic
expression.
Learning Experience
10. As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through formal education in Bachelor Degree
of Science in Fashion Technology and industry oriented diploma programme in built with this
study.
During the course duration of Diploma programme I had an exposure towards practical working
in Fashion Design.
12. Colors: Impression On Human Mind
Color is one of the most vital tools in the hands of a Designer. It is the most perceptible and
prominent aspect of any designer, and hence is central to the success or failure of a design
scheme. It is therefore very important that a Designer has the full knowledge and
understanding of this tool.
13. Warm & Cool Colors
BLUE
Variations of Cool Color as Blue.
GREEN
Variations of Cool Color as Green.
RED
Variations of Warm Color as Red.
14. Comparing Value Of Colors
The Yellow is lighter
than Red.
The Blue is darker than
Orange.
The Dark Green is equal
in value to the Brown.
The Green is lighter
than Brown.
Compare the blue and red rectangles to the gray rectangles on either side of
each color. Which gray is equal in value to the color? It may be helpful to stand
at a distance and blur your eyes if the edge between the two areas disappears
the values are equal
33. Textile Studies
For any Fashion Designer its very important
to study about fabric and its properties. For
designing new age clothes a fashion
designer should be aware about fabric
finishes like Fire Repellency, Water
Repellency, Aroma Fabric, Anti-Wrinkle
property of Fabric.
A small report on fabric is presented here :
34. Aroma fabric
Aroma fabric is treated with the pleasant
odour producing essential oils and
aromatic compounds so that the wearer
gets beneficial effects. Aroma fabric can
be used in apparels, bed sheets, intimate
garments & sports wear.
Aroma fabric gives a feeling of freshness
to the wearer. Aroma fabrics also used in
hospitals & spas to give a soothing
effect.
Stain Resistant Fabric
Stain resistant fabrics treated in the mill
with fluorochemical commercial finishes
retain their stain-repellent properties
best. Stain resistant fabrics can prevent
stains from sticking on the collar, cuffs
etc., as well as can easily shed such
stains by washing. Stain resistant fabric
can be used in chef’s uniform, hospitals,
school uniform and sports wear etc.
Fire Retardant Fabric
A Fire Retardant Fabric reduces the
flammability or delays the combustion.
Fire repellent fabrics can be used in the
public places such as school, theatres
etc. The flame retardancy of fabric is
certified for one year though the actual
length of time the treatment remains
effective.
35. Formation Of Fabric
Fibre
Yarn
Fabric
Fibre is the raw material used in making yarn.
Fibre is the initial stage in the process of making
“Fabric”.
Yarn is the 2nd stage in the process of fabric
formation.
Yarn is made by fibre.
It is the raw material used to make fabrics.
It is the final product after fibre & yarn
formation to make fabric.
36. Fabric’s Introduction
The basic ingredient for the
development of fabric is fibre. From a
fibre yarns are made than these yarns
are woven or knitted to form fabric.
There are several different types of
fabric from two main sources :-
Manmade or Natural sources.
Fabric formation process contributes to
the fabric appearance, texture,
performance, end uses and cost.
A fabric can be used to make 2-D or 3-D
products that require some shape &
flexibility. Fabrics are used in Apparel,
Furnishing & many Industrial products.
38. Knitted Fabric
Knitting is a method by which threads
or yarns turned into cloth or other fine
crafts.
Knitting is of two types:-
Warp Knitting
Weft Knitting
Knitted fabrics are stretchy & mote
comfortable to wear.
Knitted fabrics are used in Dresses,
Ties, Socks, Sweaters, Blankets,
Furnishings, Fire protection clothing
etc.....
Warp Knitting
Weft Knitting
39. Woven Fabric
Woven fabrics are formed by weaving.
Weaving is an art of interlacing the
yarns together to make a piece of
fabric.
The main types of weave are Twill,
Satin, Pile and Plain weave.
Woven fabrics are tough & durable, and
these fabrics are usually frays at edges.
Woven fabrics includes muslin, poplin,
cotton, chiffon, corduroy, denim,
taffeta, cambric etc....
40. Non-Woven Fabric
Non Woven fabrics are produced by
interlocking or bonding fibres together by
chemical, mechanical, heat or solvent
treatment.
Non Woven fabrics are not made by
weaving or knitting and do not require
converting the fibres to yarn.
Non Woven fabric are used in surgical
masks, caps, tea bags, carpet backing &
packaging....
42. Garment Construction
Fashion design runs the garment from eveningwear to sportswear, women’s wear to menswear,
and kids wear to knitwear. Garment Construction popularly called as Pattern Engineering has a
great importance in the fashion design industry. The companies like Van Heuson, Dockers, Levis,
Adidas etc. are all providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole through the
art of pattern making.
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic
pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed.
The draping method involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern by pinning fabric directly on
a form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the
muslin as the pattern itself.
The flat pattern drafting method is the most commonly used method in menswear.
43. Tools & Equipments
French Curve Rotary Cutter Scissor Measuring Tape
Drafting Scale Cotton Thread T-Pins
The flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from measurements,
using rulers, curves, and straight edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools & measuring
devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.
44. Grain Line
Cutting Line
Seam Line
Hemline
Waist Line or Hip Line
Alteration Line
Seam Allowance
Gathers
Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern
46. Combine Buttons
Button Position
Snap Fasteners
Single Notches
Double Notches
Triple Notches
Markings to be transferred
from the pattern pieces to the
fabric for matching to indicate
for details
Various signs & symbols of pattern marking which I generally use on pattern
47. Notches :-
Notches :-
• Seam allowance
• Center Line
• Ease $ Gather
Control
• Dart Legs
• Identification of
Front & Back
• Identification of
Joining Parts
• Zipper Placement
• Facing
• Hemline
• Waistline
• Shoulder Tip
• Sleeve Cap
Punch / Circle :-
• Dart intake
• Corners
• Buttons / Buttonholes
• Trimmings
• Pocket placement
Jog Seam :-
A jog seam is used to
indicate a change in the
seam allowance.
Seam Allowance :-
¼ inch :
• All faced areas
• Narrow spacing
• Extreme curve
• Sleeveless armhole
½ inch :
• Side seam
• Waist line
• Center line
• Styline
1 inch :
• Shoulder
2 inch :
• Straight Hemline
48. Landmarks :-
1. Centre Front Neck
2. Centre Front Waist
3. Bust Point
4. Centre Front Bust Level
5. Side Front Princess
6. Mid Armhole Front (at level with plate)
7. Nape of the Neck
8. Shoulder Tip
9. Armhole Ridge or Roll Line
10. Plate Screw
11. Armhole Plate
49. The flat-pattern method is where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat surface from
measurements. Under garment construction we learnt about the measuring techniques on the
dress form. That can be seen here:-
Different ways of taking measurement :-
• Circumference Measurement
• Vertical Measurement
• Horizontal Measurement
Measurements :-
59. Dart Manipulation
Shoulder
tip
CF neck
Mid armhole
Side dart
CF waist
French
dart
French dart
French dart
CF bust
Dart manipulation introduced the slash spread and pivotal transfer
pattern making technique to transfer
dart excess from one location to another for design variation. It is the
beginning of pattern manipulating
process for generating design patterns. It requires both artistic and
technical skills to mange and control the pattern.
There are three principles for dart manipulation.
PRINCIPLE 1
A dart may be transferred to any location around the patterns outlines
from a designated pivotal point
Without affecting the size or fit of a garment.
ONE DART SERIES
TWO DART SERIES
PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness
To increase fabric in a garment to an amount greater than that
provided by the dart excess of the working
pattern. The length and width within the pattern’s outline must be
increased.
PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring
To fit the contours of the upper torso closer than does the basic
garment the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the
dimension of the body above, below and in between the bust mounds
and shoulder blades.
61. Sweetheart Neckline
(finished with hemming)
French Dart
(waist)
Waist Dart
Back Neckline
Armhole
(finished with piping)
Double Fold
Hemline
Single Dart Series
64. Flat & Fell Seam
The flat & fell seam is suitable for
tailors, reversible, unlined
garments and work clothes in light
to medium weight fabric and light
most self finished hem.
Plain Seam
It joins two pieces of fabric
together face-to-face by sewing
through both pieces.
These seam can be used on
woven & knit fabrics.
65. Abutted Seam
Abutted seams are suitable for
material which do not ravel
foundation garment and
interfacing.
Bound Seam
Bound seam is used in finishing
necklines, sleeves, hems and in
finishing seams on unlined jackets
and coats.
66. Top Seam
Versatile & easy top stitch are the
most popular decorative seam by
changing the size, color and kind
of thread.
French Seam
The French seam is strong and
durable. This seam is usually used
on lightweight woven, sheer and
other delicate fabrics.
67. Double Hem
Frequently used on light weight &
transparent fabrics. Double hem
is a good choice for rectangular
skirt & children garments.
Lettuce Edge
To make an attractive rippled
edge use it on knits with 50%
stretch or on bias cut woven
fabric.
68. Blind Hem Stitch
The stitching is almost invisible on
the right side of the fabric. The
blind hem stitch is primarily used
for hemming curtains, trousers,
skirts, etc.
Book Hem
Book hem is frequently used on
coats, jackets and children
garment. This hem stitch is used
when top stitching would distract
from garment appearance and raw
edges would be unsightly on the
inside of the garment.
89. For any fashion designer,
fabrics 1st need to be prepared
with textures and then used
for style and design
development.
Style require plain texture and
some time textured fabric to
create better style.
Presenting few best ideas of
texture which I learned at my
study of fashion design at
Dezyne E’cole College.
110. Designing process involves the combining
of known design components in varied
ways to create new products. Elements of
design are those components which the
designers employ in all forms of art &
design, weather it is designing of garments,
music, building, paintings etc.
understanding of these elements and
using them in different ways enables the
designer to produce different art and visual
effects.
Every design is composed of different
elements. These elements are:-
Dot
Line
Shape
Color
Texture
111. Dot
Dot is known as the basic element of
design. It is the smallest and simplest unit
suggesting its presence and location.
The size of the dots also convey a message;
the bigger the dots the more enlarged the
surface appears, an vice-versa. Hence, a
thin figure should wear a dress of bigger
dots to conceal the figure problem.
Points joined and proceeding towards one
side indicate direction. A chain of dots
becomes a line.
112. Line
Line is a spontaneous mode of expression.
It is the distance between the two points
together. It is a chain of dots joined
together indicating direction. Line is the
simplest and most important of the design
elements.
All lines have Direction, Length and Width.
There are many kinds of lines-diagonal,
undulating and spiral, dotted,
perpendicular, dominating, straight, thick,
horizontal, vertical, thin, curved and
Zig-Zag.
Lines can be seen on seams, yokes, fabric
patterns, darts and pockets, collars, seams,
gathers etc..
113. Shape
Shape is a space enclosed by lines, e.g., a
silhouette is the outer shape of the
garment. A shape features in the structural
and decorative features of the garment-
the silhouette, pockets, yokes, collars, etc.
Three basic shapes are- natural, geometric
and abstract.
Natural shapes are found in nature and
living things.
Geometric shapes include circles, squares,
rectangles, ovals, etc. they are regular and
can be measured easily.
Abstract shapes are man made or
accidently made shapes.
114. Color
The first thing is ever noticed about a
garment is the color. Hence, color is the
most important of all the design elements.
Every color can be studied through its
three characteristics :-
Hue
Value
Chroma
Hue is that dimension of color which gives
it a name and distinguishes it from another
color.
Value depicts the lightness and darkness of
a color. A lighter color has bigger value
than a darker color .
Chroma signifies the brightness or dullness
of a color, thus distinguishing navy blue
from cobalt blue.
115. Texture
Texture is the characteristic structure as
well as the surface quality of the material.
Texture usually describes the nature of a
surface, which we can judge by our feeling
of touch.
In fashion designing, varied textures are
seen on the surface of fabrics and different
trimmings.
Textures are of two types :-
Tactile
Visual
Tactile textures can be felt with a touch
and is found in natural materials like stone,
silk, glass etc..
Visual textures are seen due to surface
ornamentation like printing, embroidery,
smocking etc.
117. Every design demands arranging of its
components in manners which are best
dictated by certain principles. These
principles of design guide the arrangement
of elements of design to make it a good
piece of art. It is important for any artist or
designer to arrange the elements in a
pleasing manner. Hence, knowledge and
understanding of these principles is
important.
Like the elements of design, the principles
too may be used in a design structurally or
decoratively.
These principles of design are:-
Repetition
Gradation
Radiation
Dominance
Harmony
Contrast
Proportion
Balance
Rhythm
Unity
118. Repetition
When any element of design- dot, line,
shape, color or texture is used more than
once in a garment, Repetition occurs. It
makes the eye move over the design,
hence it is directional .
Human body has symmetry; hence the
garment elements are also placed in some
symmetry, e.g., sleeves, pockets, collar
lapels. Buttons, trims and embroidery on a
garment can also have symmetry.
Repetition can be of various types. It could
be irregular, regular, inverted, alternate or
parallel.
119. Gradation
When identical elements change on every
repetition in increasing or decreasing
order, it is called gradation.
It is repetition with variation.it is uniting
but moving in a direction. Gradation can be
seen in shapes, color, line and size.
120. Radiation
From a central point, there is movement of
elements in all directions. This is called
radiation. The movement creates interest
on the central point from where the
elements radiate out to the outer edge of
the elements. Being directional in nature,
radiation can be in similar directions,
several directions, opposite directions or
all directions. Radiation principle is
applicable to elements of line and shape
only.
121. Dominance
Dominance principle has the highlighting
function with each design having a focal
point or a point holding the design. Usually
there is one dominance or emphasis point.
It sets the mood of design.
When there is no dominant feature, the
eye becomes board and restless. Warm
colors are more dominant than cool colors.
Shiny textures are more dominant than
matt textures.
122. Harmony
It fulfills the uniting action of principle of
design. When one or more qualities of the
design are similar, harmony occurs
between them.
Tones of same hue create harmony if put
together. Line making shapes create
harmony. The design elements can create a
harmony by linking with the mood of the
garment.
123. Contrast
A contrast occurs when two or more totally
unrelated features occur in one design.
Contrast are the principles which draw
attention. Hence, contrast sometimes
becomes very important in a design. On
the other hand, too much of contrast
creates confusion.
124. Proportion
It is the way in which all parts in a design
are related to each other as to the design.
Proportion is usually the best when all
design areas are not exactly the same. But
the relationship between the unequal
parts should be pleasing to the eye.
Sometime, too much difference or too
little difference also does not created any
interest. By changing the proportions,
different style can be created from the
same design.
125. Balance
Weight of the other elements of the design
is equally distributed to create a balance.
This gives stability to the whole design. In
some design, the elements are repeated
exactly the same way as on the other side
of the axis. It is like a reversed mirror
image.
Balance in a garment can be adjusted by
moving of seams, yokes, panels, darts by
adding or subtracting fullness and also by
arranging openings
126. Rhythm
The elements are placed in a manner that
eye moves in a direction. This motion of
eye causes rhythm. The feature of the
design are so arranged that the eye moves
over the garment, in an orderly predictable
manner.
Rhythmic effect becomes stronger when
the pattern is repeated. It could be an
identical repetitive pattern or at irregular
intervals throughout the design. Rhythm is
seen on gathers, pleats, frills, drapes,
flowing hemlines, seams, laces, scalloped
edges.
127. Unity
All elements of design strive to have unity
when placed together in a piece of art. The
elements of design and principle of design
should be placed so placed that neither
should be overdone.
There should be no competition between
the elements. The elements are placed in
perfect harmony with each other.
130. Sir Isaac Newton the great
scientist invented color in
1665 during an experiment
with glass prism.
Pantone as it is today, was
founded in 1962 was bought
by Lawrence Herbert who
developed the first pantone
color chart in 1963.
History Of Colors
131. The sunset hues of the year
2014 are paler, brighter.
In the middle latitudes & over
the eastern half of the united
states, sunset hues are
commonly used.
These hues are used with the
bold hue of pink& with
neutral hues.
SUNSET HUE
132. UNDERWATER BLUE
Underwater blue is the hot
new color this season.
Any blue get complements
any skin tone, that’s why for
S/S 2014 blue is common for
all.
This blue reflects heat that’s
why used in the hot summer
months in the formal &
informal wear by all.
133. Summer trend 2014 is the
fresh combination of olive
green paired with mustards &
bright yellows.
Dries Van Noten has
combined bright mustard
trousers with army green
uppers.
OLIVE YELLOW
134. WARM BRICK RED
Not very bright and not too
dark, this shade of red is
popular in this season.
Graduating between rustic
orange and brick tones is the
color family of red that is
going to rule the next
summer stalk for men.
135. Fantastic and fresh, Green
symbolises health & growth.
A fresh tone of green, picked
up right from the “money
plant” can be spotted as cool
color in most of the
collections of Ellie Soab,
Valentino etc. combined with
white to maintain its
originality.
LEAFY GREEN
136. GRADUATING BROWN
From hues of sand, camel
browns, tree barks &
chocolate brown, the palette
is all about the graduating
shades of brown.
2014’s collections of Marni,
Belly etc. this is the most
ready to wear option for
evening, or for office.
137. CASCADING BLUE
Bold colors ruled the runway
this season with blue.
The cascading blue is used
for the menswear of 2014.
Designers like Diesel Black
Gold have paired it with the
hues of lighter and darker
grey.
138. SUBDUED PASTELS
2014 show the palettes of
pastels colors for women.
They can be spotted with
staple white foe a fresh
summer look.
Combination of contrasting
pastels are showcased by
designers like Belmin and
Thakoon.
139.
140. Tribal Culture: Rajasthan
Vibrant, colourful, dazzling, vivid, garish
stands for the tribal culture of Rajasthan.
Stand in a market place in Jodhpur or
Jaipur, every street is a sensory assault,
from lime to mint, saffron to crimson, and
turquoise to indigo, magenta to lavender.
Rajasthan Tribal is constitutes around
twelve percent of the total population of
the state. There is different Tribes in
Rajasthan, however all Rajasthan tribes
share certain common traits, the variations
being in their costumes, jewellery, fair and
festivals, etc.
141. A wide variety of colors also make the
tribal costume more attractive. Costumes
of their men and women are unique.
The type of clothing is very popular among
locals. They are often embroidered.
This costume is designed on the basis of
complimentary color scheme.
This dress is showing the element of design
like Dot, Line, Shape, Value, Color &
Texture.
142. For centuries, the Bhil & Bishnoi cultures
have coexisted in the Rajasthan desert of
central India, a society of people living in
harmony with each other & their
environment.
Gota and rickrack are also applied for
ornamentation on odhni.
This costume is showing the basic elements
of design like Dot, Line, Shape, Value,
Colour, Texture as well as principle of
design like Repetition, Gradation,
Radiation, Dominance, Harmony, Contrast,
Proportion, Rhythm, etc....
143. Tribal jewelry of Rajasthan takes an
important position in the Costumes of
Rajasthan.
All women’s wear very bright,
predominantly patterned cloth and adorn
themselves with nose rings, bracelets and
anklets.
Silver is more commonly worn by the rural
women and is certainly more affordable. A
forehead ornament Bhor can be made of
gold or silver and decorated with silvered
glass beads and mirrors. Usually it is
spherical but may be flat. They may be of
different shape: rectangular, square, round,
in the form of yoni or temple-shaped.
144. Rajasthan literally means a land of
Kingdoms. Traditionally men wear Dhotis,
Kurta and Safa (a kind of turban). Dhoti is
worn in different ways in Marwar.
Man wear basic white clothes representing
simplicity and modesty. The colour of the
turbans they worn are very bright, vivid &
contrasting.