48. Chroma
Chroma is defined as
the degree of
departure from the
neutral colour of the
same value
Colours of low chroma
are called weak, high
chroma colours are
called strong
52. Design research
⚫ Trend forecasters
⚫ Colour forecasters
⚫ International fashion shows
⚫ Major fabric and yarn fairs
⚫ Sample garment buying for styling and colour
⚫ Sample fabrics for handle, finish, colour and
designs
⚫ High street comparative shopping
56. Colour Standards in the Market
https://www.pantone.com/hk/en/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSkbx2vTTuI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDaxNjENS5M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DqhrVY2jSw
https://www.wgsn.com/en/products/fashion/
57. Colour palettes
How can the palette be
communicated?
A collection of colours
for a range of merchandise
for a specific season
58. Printed paper colour palette
⚫ Contains on-trend fashion colours for the season
⚫ The colours are the correct version for your target
customer
⚫ The colours work harmoniously together
(tops & bottom tones)
59. Printed paper colour palette
Used by some retailers
⚫ Core classics are included
⚫ Controlled number of colours
⚫ Colour indication only
⚫ Excellent for communication
⚫ Have correct name and number
60. Printed colour palette weaknesses
⚫ Only match in daylight
⚫ Poor light fastness
⚫ Should not be used for accurate colour
matching
66. What is a colour standard?
⚫ It is precisely the colour you want
⚫ It is the same colour in different lighting
conditions (colour constant)
⚫ You have enough of the colour to give everyone
a standard from the same batch
⚫ You have enough for everyone to have a piece
big enough to see to do an accurate visual and
instrumental match, at least
40 mm 40 mm (when folded)
67. Who needs a textile colour standard?
⚫ Specifiers
⚫ Agents
⚫ Fabric suppliers
⚫ Dyers
⚫ Garment makers
⚫ Button & zip manufacturers
⚫ Lace & trim manufacturers
⚫ Label printers
⚫ And many more
69. General metamerism definition
⚫ Two samples appear to be a good match under
one set of viewing conditions but do not match
under another set of viewing conditions
70. Illuminant metamerism
Two samples appear to be a good match
in one light source but no longer match
when the light source is changed
88. Datacolor 600
X Rite i7
Instruments need to agree to less than you can JUST see
Colour communication: spectrophotometers
89. Colour measuring instruments
⚫ Tristimulus colorimeters
⚫ Spectrophotometers
only for colour communication
⚫ Spectrophotometers measure throughout the
visible spectrum
⚫ Produce the ‘fingerprint’ for each colour
91. Initial colour
standard
Lab dyeing
First bulk
Production
dyelots
Trim & component
matching
Lengthy process
communication can
be poor
USA
12 000 miles
&
12 hours’
time
difference
China/
India
Colour approval process
92. Traditional approach
⚫ Produce and issue fabric colour standards
⚫ Request lab dyes
⚫ Approve lab dyes
⚫ Check lab-to-bulk reproducibility
⚫ Check shade continuity
⚫ Deliver goods
95. Numeric standards – benefits
⚫ Can be sent immediately anywhere globally
⚫ The standard will not age or deteriorate
⚫ No variation
⚫ Reduction in postal charges
96. Requirements for numeric
standards to be effective
⚫ Use the right spectrophotometer
⚫ Use right settings
⚫ Use right conditions
⚫ Use right sample presentation
97. What can go wrong?
⚫ The dyers’ and specifiers’ standards are
different
⚫ Poor uniformity of standard
⚫ The dyer has been given the wrong standard
⚫ The standard has been labelled incorrectly
⚫ Numeric data and standard do not match
98. What can go wrong?
⚫ The dyers’ standard has been cut to a piece so
small and with no identification
⚫ The standards are variable and not the same
⚫ The data and the standard do not match
⚫ The standard has got contaminated/dirty
⚫ The colour samples are being viewed under
different light sources
108. 1998 Datacolor International. All rights reserved
Subject to protection under the Bern convention.
1998 Datacolor International. All rights reserved
Subject to protection under the Bern convention.
Colour visualisation
Monitor calibration
X-Rite DCI Spyder
109. On screen colour vs lighting cabinets
⚫ Screens emit light
⚫ Need to observe in a darkened room
⚫ Emit colours with less intensity
⚫ Monitors need to be calibrated
111. Electronic communication benefits
⚫ Number of approvals sent reduced by 50–70%
⚫ Delivery bills reduced
⚫ Faster palette creation
⚫ Reduced time to market
⚫ Fewer arguments
⚫ Less waste
