2. INTRODUCTION
Colouring materials are mainly of three types, viz.
dyes,
pigments and
lakes (ingrain dyes).
A dye has three parts in its structure – chromophore, chromogen and
auxochrome – and is soluble in a specific medium under certain
conditions.
Chromophore is an unsaturated group that absorbs light and
reflects it at specific angle to give the hue,
e.g. azo, keto, nitro, nitroso, thio, ethylene, etc.;
3. Chromogen retains chromophore and plays a crucial role to
determine the final hue and its affinity for fibre, fastness, stability,
etc.
While auxochrome is a substituted acidic or basic group in dye
structure to intensify depth of shade,
e.g. –OH, –COOH, SO3H, –NH,etc.
4. Classification
Colouring materials are also classified in several other ways based
on their
source or origin,
chemical structure,
field of application,
ionic nature and
solubility in water, etc.
6. CHEMICAL STRUCTURE
Colouring materials are also classified based on their chemical
structure.
e.g., azo, nitro, nitroso, stilbene, di- and tri-phenylmethane,
xanthene, acridine, quinoline, methane, thiazole, azine, oxazine,
thiazine, anthraquinone, indigoid and phthalocyanine, etc
8. IONIC NATURE
Dyes can also be classified according to electrical charge that
exists in its ionized coloured part before or during dyeing.
Based on this, direct, acid, reactive, sulphur, metal-complex,
vat and soluble vat dyes are anionic;
Basic dye is cationic
Disperse dye is non-ionic in nature
9. SOLUBILITY IN WATER
Water is the universal medium of dyeing.
It is cheaper, non toxic, easily available and can be recovered and
reused.
That is why solubility of dye in water is an important factor in dyeing.
Direct, reactive, solubilised vat and acid dyes are water-soluble
dyes.
Vat and sulphur dyes are water insoluble but can be taken into
solution by reduction and solubilisation.
Basic dye is soluble in acidic warm bath
while other dyes are insoluble in water under normal conditions.