Colors used in cosmetics

COLOURS USED IN COSMETICS
BY : MEET PATEL
SUBJECT: HERBAL DRUG TECHNOLOGY

Content
Introduction
 Regulatory bodies
 Classification of color
 Table (Color Additives That Are Subject to Certification and Permitted for
Use in Cosmetics and Color Additives That Are Exempt from
Certification and Permitted for Use in Cosmetics)
Natural colors
Annatto
beta-Carotene
Caramel
Carmine
Chlorphyllin Cu complex
Henna
Summary

Introduction
A color additive is any dye, pigment or
substance which when added or applied to a
food, drug or cosmetic, or to the human body,
is capable (alone or through reactions with
other substances) of imparting color.

Ideal properties of a colorant
 Nontoxic and have no physiological activity.
 Free from harmful impurities
 Is a definite chemical compound because then only its
coloring power will be reliable, its assay will be prac
ticable and easier.
 Its Tinctorial (coloring) power should be high so th
at only small quantities are required.
 Unaffected by light, tropical temperatures, hydrolys
is and micro‐organisms and, therefore, be stable on
storage.

Classification of cosmetic
colorants
 Cosmetic colorants are classified as
1. organic
2. inorganic.
 organic colors would be the safest, they were
actually originally called “coal tar” because they were
derived from coal sources.
 However, nowadays almost all organic colorants are
synthetic and are available as either water soluble, oil
soluble or insoluble (Lakes) agents in all kinds of
shades.
 Organic colors (lakes and dyes) are synthetic,
chemically very complex molecules and are divided
into various groups including indigoids, xanthenes,
azos, nitros and others.

 Compared to inorganic colors, organic colors are
available in a larger variety of shades.
 Since most organic pigments are soluble (either
water or oil soluble), they can be utilized not only
in solid makeup products (e.g. lipsticks), but also
in aqueous products (e.g. nail lacquer, liquid
makeups).
 Water soluble dyes are used for coloring soaps,
lotions, creams, powders, salts, etc.

 inorganic colorants are composed of insoluble
metallic compounds derived from natural sources
(e.g. china clay, carbon deposits), or are synthesized.
 Inorganic colors aren’t thought to pose the same
kinds of health risks as organic colors, so don’t
require certification.
 In addition to inorganic colors, natural materials used
to color cosmetics, like carrot oil, beet extract and
henna, are also considered ‘safe’ and are exempt
from classification.
 In the category of decorative cosmetics, the majority
of colors used are pigments. It is the inorganic
pigments that are popular with cosmetics but are
subject to purity levels of heavy metals and have to
be approved by the EU (Directive 76/768/EEC) and
the FDA for use in cosmetics. The following are
inorganic pigments commonly used in makeup.

Some Basic Requirements
 If your product (except coal-tar hair dyes) contains a color
additive, by law [FD&C Act, Sec. 721; 21 U.S.C. 379e; 21 CFR
Parts 70 and 80] you must adhere to requirements for:
 Approval. All color additives used in cosmetics (or any other
FDA-regulated product) must be approved by FDA. There must
be a regulation specifically addressing a substance's use as a
color additive, specifications, and restrictions.
 Certification. In addition to approval, a number of color additives
must be batch certified by FDA if they are to be used in
cosmetics (or any other FDA-regulated product) marketed in the
U.S.
 Identity and specifications. All color additives must meet the
requirements for identity and specifications stated in the Code of
Federal Regulations (CFR).
 Use and restrictions. Color additives may be used only for the
intended uses stated in the regulations that pertain to them. The
regulations also specify other restrictions for certain colors, such
as the maximum permissible concentration in the finished
product.

REGULATORY BODIES
Regulation of Colors in the US
 The US FDA has established regulations for color
additives in Title 21 of the CFR, parts 70-82. These
color additive regulations identify each listed color
additive, provide chemical specifications and identify
uses and restrictions, labeling requirements and the
requirement for certification. The regulations in 21
CFR part 71 describe the premarket approval process
for new color additives or new uses for listed color
additives. Color manufacturers routinely carry out
quality assurance testing on the products they sell to
ensure that they meet the specifications laid out in the
Code of Federal Regulations.

 FDA's permitted colors are classified as subject to
certification or exempt from certification, both of
which are subject to rigorous safety standards prior to
their approval and listing for use in foods.
 Certified colors are synthetically produced (or
human made) and used widely because they impart
an intense, uniform color, are less expensive, and
blend more easily to create a variety of hues. There
are nine certified color additives approved for use in
the United States.
 Colors that are exempt from certification include
pigments derived from natural sources such as
vegetables, minerals or animals. Nature derived color
additives are typically more expensive than certified
colors .

Color Additives That Are Subject to
Certification and Permitted for Use in
Cosmetics
Color Additive Eye Area**
Generally
(Includes
Lipsticks) External Use
Specific Limitations
and Comments
21 CFR
Section
D&C Black No. 2 Subject to Limitations Subject to Limitations Subject to Limitations Eyeliner, brush-on-brow, eye
shadow, mascara, lipstick,
blushers & rouge, makeup &
foundation, nail enamel
74.2052
D&C Black No. 3 Subject to Limitations No Subject to Limitations Eyeliner, eye shadow,
mascara, face powder
74.2053
FD&C Blue No. 1 Yes, also Al lake Yes Yes 74.2101
D&C Blue No. 4 No No Yes 74.2104
D&C Brown No. 1 No No Yes 74.2151
FD&C Green No. 3 No Yes Yes 74.2203
D&C Green No. 5 Yes Yes Yes 74.2205
D&C Green No. 6 No No Yes 74.2206
D&C Green No. 8 No No Subject to Limitations ≤0.01% 74.2208
D&C Orange No. 4 No No Yes 74.2254
D&C Orange No. 5 No Subject to Limitations Yes Mouthwashes, dentifrices;
≤5% for lipsticks
74.2255
FD&C Red No. 4 No No Yes 74.2304
D&C Red No. 6 No Yes Yes 74.2306
D&C Red No. 17 No No Yes 74.2317
D&C Red No. 33 No Subject to Limitations Yes Lipstick
products ≤3%; mouthwash,
dentrifices
74.2333
D&C Yellow No. 11 No No Yes 74.2711

D&C Red No. 36 No Subject to
Limitations
Yes Lipstick
products ≤3%
74.2336
FD&C Red No. 40 Yes, also Al lake Yes Yes 74.2340
D&C Violet No. 2 No No Yes 74.2602
Ext. D&C Violet No. 2 No No Yes 74.2602a
FD&C Yellow No. 5 Yes, also Al lake Yes Yes 74.2705
FD&C Yellow No. 6 No Yes Yes 74.2706
Ext. D&C
Yellow No. 7
No No Yes 74.2707a
D&C Yellow No. 10 No Yes Yes 74.2710

Color Additives That Are Exempt from Certification
and Permitted for Use in Cosmetics
Color Additive Eye Area
Generally
(Includes
Lipsticks) External Use
Specific Limitations
and Comments
21 CFR
Section
Aluminum powder Yes No Yes 73.2645
Annatto Yes Yes Yes 73.2030
Bismuth citrate No No Subject to limitations Hair on the scalp 73.2110
Bismuth oxychloride Yes Yes Yes 73.2162
Bronze powder Yes Yes Yes 73.2646
Caramel Yes Yes Yes 73.2085
Carmine Yes Yes Yes 73.2087
β-Carotene Yes Yes Yes 73.2095
Chromium
hydroxide green
Yes No Yes 73.2326
Chromium oxide
greens
Yes No Yes 73.2327
Copper powder Yes Yes Yes 73.2647
Dihydroxyacetone No No Subject to limitations For use in tanning
preparations
73.2150
Disodium
EDTA-copper
No No Subject to limitations Shampoos 73.2120
Ferric ammonium
ferrocyanide
Yes No Yes 73.2298

Ferric ferrocyanide Yes No Yes 73.2299
Guaiazulene No No Yes 73.2180
Guanine Yes Yes Yes 73.2329
Henna No No Subject to limitations Hair on the scalp 73.2190
Iron oxides Yes Yes Yes 73.2250
Lead acetate No No Subject to limitations Hair on the scalp;
≤0.6% lead
73.2396
Luminescent
zinc sulfide
No No Subject to limitations Externally applied
facial makeup and
nail polish; <10%;
for="" infrequent=""
use="" (e.g.,="">
73.2995
Manganese violet Yes Yes Yes 73.2775
Mica Yes Yes Yes 73.2496
Potassium sodium
copper chlorophyllin
(chlorophyllin-copper
complex)
No No Subject to limitations Dentifrices; ≤0.1% 73.2125
Pyrophyllite No No Yes 73.2400
Silver No No Subject to limitations Fingernail polish;
≤1%
73.2500
Titanium dioxide Yes Yes Yes 73.2575
Ultramarines Yes No Yes 73.2725
Zinc oxide Yes Yes Yes 73.2991

NATURAL COLOUR
 Annatto
 beta-Carotene
 Caramel
 Carmine
 Chlorphyllin Cu complex
 Guaiazulene
 Henna
 Guanine

Inorganic colors used in
cosmetics
 Mica
 Titanium dioxides
 Iron oxides
 Manganese violet
 Zinc oxide

 Lycopene – reddish / orange color derived from
tomatoes
Vegetable Carbon – Black color derived from
burnt vegetable matter.
 Curcumin – Yellow color derived from the spice
turmeric.
 Capsanthin / Capsorubin – Orange color derived
from sweet red peppers. Commonly known as
paprika.
 Canthaxanthin – yellow – red color derived from
mushrooms or shrimp.

Henna
SOURCE
Henna is the natural material derived from the
dried powdered leaves of the plant Lawsonia
inermis. Henna is used in the formulation of
hair coloring products.
Henna imparts color to the hair. The exact
color obtained will depend on the other
ingredients that are used in the preparation
and the starting color of the hair.

BENEFITS OF HENNA:
 Henna Hair Dye:
 Naturally, Gently Colors Hair. Strengthens the Hair Shaft. Detoxes
the follicles. Conditions the Scalp. Fights Dandruff.
 Henna’s pigment, lawsone, gradually migrates into the hair shaft
while setting and will naturally & gently bind to the keratin(protein) in
your hair. It will actually maintain your current natural highlights and
undertones. Henna fuses into, does not artificially cover, your
existing hair color variations. The color appears completely natural—
never “cakey” and artificial like traditional chemical-based hair dyes.
 Henna will condition and repair the hair while it colors during the
treatment (1-2 hours+). Unlike artificial slick-coating leave-in
conditioners, henna works from the scalp up. The conditioning
effects are the total process of the application: the henna paste
detoxes the scalp and roots(anti-bacterial & fungal); the lawsone
pigment positively restructures the hair proteins; the cuticle layer of
the hair smoothes and lies flat adding shine; and the rinsing of the
dry paste naturally extracts hair residue (pollution, styling products,
etc.) as it washes out—like a facial mud mask…just a natural, time-

 Hair dyeing formulations belong to three categories –
1. Temporary
2. semi-permanent and
3. permanent coloring of hair.
 Temporary coloring preparations, often called color rinses,
provide color which lasts until the first shampooing. Ingredients
which impart temporary color may have a fairly high molecular
weight and are unable to penetrate the hair shaft. These
materials are simply deposited onto the hair fiber and are
removed by subsequent shampooing.
 Semi-permanent coloring preparations generally provide color
through several shampooings. These materials are often low
molecular weight pre-formed dyes which can penetrate the
hair shaft to some extent. Henna function as a hair colorant

Safety Information
 The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists
Henna as a color additive exempt from
certification and it may be safely used for coloring
hair only. It may not be used on the skin or for
coloring the eyelashes or eyebrows.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review(CIR) Expert
Panel has deferred evaluation of Henna because
the safety has been assessed by FDA. This
deferral of review is according to the provisions of
the CIR Procedures.

Beta - carotene
 Beta-Carotene is a precursor of vitamin A.
 It is the pigment responsible for the orange color of carrots and it
is found in many other fruits and vegetables.
 Beta-Carotene used in cosmetics and personal care products is
prepared synthetically or obtained from natural sources.
 Beta-Carotene is listed as CI 40800 and CI 75130 in the
Cosmetics Directive of the European Union and may be used as
a coloring agent in all cosmetics and personal care products.
When used in cosmetics and personal care products in the
European Union Beta-Carotene must be called CI 40800 or CI
75130.
 The color additive β-carotene may be safely used in coloring
cosmetics generally, including cosmetics intended for use
in the area of the eye, in lipstick, in amounts consistent with
good manufacturing practices.

Annatto
SOURCE
 Annatto is the coloring matter made from from the
seeds of the tree, Bixa orellana, commonly called
the lipstick tree. In cosmetics and personal care
products, Annatto is used in the formulation of
face and neck products, lipsticks, shampoos, and
skin care products.
Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care
products?
 Annatto imparts a red or orange color to
cosmetics and personal care products.

Methods for preparations
 The color additive annatto extract is an extract
prepared from annatto seed, Bixa orellana L.
 The alkaline alcohol or aqueous extracts may be
treated with food-grade acids to
precipitate annatto pigments, which are
separated from the liquid and dried, with or
without intermediate recrystallization, by using
any of them from Acetone, ethylene dichloride,
hexane, isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol,
methylene chloride, trichloroethylene.
 Food-grade alkalis or carbonates may be added
to adjust alkalinity.

Safety Information
The Food and Drug Administration
(FDA) lists Annatto as a color additive
exempt from certification and it may be
safely used in coloring foods, as well as
cosmetics and drugs including products
intended for use in the area of the eye.

Mica(inorganic colour)
 Mica is a naturally occurring group of silicate
minerals. In cosmetics and personal care
products, Mica, from muscovite mica is used in
the formulation of a wide variety of product types,
including makeup, nail products and skin care
products.
Why is it used in cosmetics and personal
care products?
 Mica imparts a sparkly white appearance to
cosmetics and personal care products

Safety Information
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists
Mica as a color additive exempt from
certification. Mica, is safe for use in coloring
products, including cosmetics and
personal care products applied to the lips,
and the area of the eye.

Caramel
Caramel is a colorant derived from heating
edible sugar. In cosmetics and personal care
products, Caramel is used in the formulation
of a wide variety of product types.
products?
Caramel imparts a brown color to cosmetics
and personal care products.

 The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) includes
Caramel on its list of substances considered
Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) as a
multipurpose food substances. FDA also lists
Caramel as a color additive exempt from
certification.
 Caramel is determined to be safe for use in
coloring cosmetics and personal care products,
including products applied to the lips and area of
the eye.
 The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has
deferred evaluation of this ingredient because the
safety has been assessed by FDA. This deferral
of review is according to the provisions of the CIR

Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex
 Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex is obtained by
extracting chlorophyllin from fescue and rye grasses.
 Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex is made from
chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is the green pigment in plants
that is essential for photosnythesis.
 In cosmetics and personal care products,
Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex is used in the
formulation of bath products, cleansing products,
dentifrices, deodorants, hair conditioners,
shampoos, skin care products and other hair
products.
 Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex also imparts a
green color to dentifrice products.

Carmine
 Carmine is the aluminum lake of the coloring
agent, cochineal, a natural pigment derived from
the dried female insect Coccus cacti (cochineal).
 In cosmetics and personal care products,
Carmine is used in the formulation of a wide
variety of product types, including make up and
nail polish.
products?
 Carmine imparts a red color to cosmetics and
personal care products.

Safety Information:
Carmine may be safely used in cosmetics and
personal care products, including products
intended for use on the lips and in
products intended for use in the area of
the eye.

Titanium Dioxide( inorganic
colour)
Titanium dioxide is a naturally occurring
mineral that is mined from the earth then
further processed and purified for use in
consumer products.
Titanium dioxide is used as a colorant to
make cosmetics and personal care
products that are applied to the skin
(including the eye area), nails, and
lips white in color.

SUMMARY
Colors which are permitted for hair products
 Bismuth citrate : it imparts yellow color to the hair.
 Disodium
EDTA-copper: it imparts color on hair.
 Henna: Turning hair red, or in the case of white or
blonde hair, orange, when used alone. Henna
can be mixed with other plants like indigo
to make a variety of shades including dark brown
and black.
 Lead acetate: In low concentrations, Lead
Acetate is used as a color additive in
"progressive" hair dye products. These products
are applied over a period of time to achieve a
gradual coloring effect.

Colors which are permitted for lipstick
 Annatto
 Bismuth oxychloride
 Bronze powder
 Caramel
 Carmine
 β-Carotene
 Copper powder
 Manganese violet
 Mica
 Titanium dioxide

Colors which are permitted for eye area
Bismuth oxychloride
Bronze powder
Caramel
Carmine
β-Carotene
Chromium hydroxide green
Chromium oxide greens
Copper powder

Colors which are permitted for external
use
 Bismuth oxychloride
 Bronze powder
 Caramel
 Carmine
 β-Carotene
 Chromium hydroxide green
 Chromium oxide greens
 Copper powder
 Ferric ferrocyanide
 Guaiazulene
 Guanine

REFERENCE
 https://iacmcolor.org/how-colors-are-regulated/
 https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredient-
names/color-additives-permitted-use-cosmetics
 https://www.hennacolorlab.com/shop/natural-black-
henna-hair-dye/
 https://cosmeticsinfo.org/
 https://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-
idx?c=ecfr&SID=d1e893bdb7eb4f21dc0d6979702c73
72&rgn=div6&view=text&node=21:1.0.1.1.27.3&idno=
21#se21.1.73_12496
 https://medium.com/@cosmethics/the-world-of-colors-
in-cosmetics-964dc165d43

Colors used in cosmetics

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