Proposal for a network of sewing cafés in the TCBL project.

1. TCBL Café
Lab Project Proposal
Maria Adele Cipolla, eZavod
Jesse Marsh, Prato
20.11.2017

2. Problem
 Territorial skills pools for sewing and
garment assembly are in rapid extinction,
often fragmented by Taylorian production
methods
 Sewing is socially stigmatized as old-
fashioned, low-paying, at best a hobby
 Traditional training methods are not
proving capable of solving the problem

3. Impacts of the problem
 Independent designers have difficulty
sourcing local production skills
 Re-shoring faces significant skills
shortages
 Haberdasheries, fabric producers and
circular economy initiatives have difficulty
targeting small-scale markets
 Technical schools are under-subscribed

4. Approach
 Focus on the local territorial dimension as
the skills foundation for the industry
 Focus on non-monetary benefits of self-
fulfillment to attract ‘hidden’ talents
 Focus on social, collective learning
 Develop a demand-driven approach for
suppliers’ businesses

5. Starting point
Knitting Café – Gullo Filati, Palermo

6. Positive aspects
 Attracts expert knitters from throughout the
region
 Each carries out their own project, with a
theme
 While working, they chat but also share
knitting knowledge and tips
 Increase in sales and visibility for hosting
company (haberdashery retailer)

7. Required transformations
 Shift from knitting to sewing
 More equipment, harder to improvise
 Develop replicable model
 Define criteria for transferability, networking
 Improve link to businesses
 Skills professionalisation; test production
 Risk management
 Avoid jeopardizing delicate equilibrium

8. TCBL café proposal
TCBL
Café
Sewer
Designer
Supplier

9. Value proposition to Sewers
 Each week, a Designer offers a set of
patterns (last year’s), you come and can
make your own garment
 You choose the model and have an
example prototype on mannequin plus the
support of the Designer in person
 You bring fabric or choose from a
selection, accessories are ready as a kit

10. Value proposition to Designers
 Low risk in ‘giving away’ patterns and
samples of old models
 You gain visibility and publicity in a local
market of aware customers
 You observe participant sewers and can
identify possible new recruits
 You can establish a privileged relation with
suppliers

11. Value proposition to Suppliers
 Alternative sales channel
 Fidelisation of quality clientèle – both
sewers and designers
 You gain visibility and publicity in your
local market
 You can develop derivative business
concepts, i.e. garment kits

12. Systemic benefits
 ‘Hidden’ territorial knowledge is attracted
and transferred to younger local
participants
 Sewing gains popularity and visibility in the
community
 Business gains for all players in the local
T&C ecosystem

13. Networking potential
TCBL Partners in Task 4.6
SC
SC
SC
SC
SC
SC
SC
SC
SC
SC

14. Network benefits
 Exchange of designers improves
attractiveness of value propositions
 Build awareness of regional differences in
garment production practice
 Build the foundation for a networked
production infrastructure

15. TCBL Café: activity variations
Sewing Knitting Crochet Embroidery Weaving
Equipment
in loco
Cutting table,
ironing board,
sewing
machines,
mannequins,
seating
Tables,
seating,
armchairs,
sofas
Tables,
seating,
armchairs,
sofas
Tables,
seating,
armchairs,
sofas
Looms, tables,
seating
Equipment
to bring
Needles,
scissors,
thread, fabric
Knitting
needles, wool
or cotton yarn
Crochet
needle, wool
or cotton yarn
Embrodiery
thread,
scissors,
template
Yarn
Personnel
required
Expert sewing
tutor
Expert knitting
tutor
Expert crochet
tutor
Expert
embroidery
tutor
Expert
weaving tutor

16. TCBL Café: host variations
Supplier Café
No-profit
association School Fablab
Target Attracts skilled
users
Variety of
users, short
term
Socially
relevant target
Students Maker
community
Group
manage-
ment
Event-driven
model
Open usage Scheduled
sessions
Course units Open, loose
participation
Sustaina-
bility
Economic
return to
sponsors
Sales of food
and drinks
Donations,
public funding
School-related Subscription
based

17. Business development
 Networking independent designers with
production facilities
 Experimentation of networked local
production facilities
 Development of DIY sewing kits linked to
cafés
 Short run distribution network of fabrics
and haberdashery

18. Thank you for your attention
Maria Adele Cipolla, eZavod
Jesse Marsh, Prato
20.11.2017