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Seed Collecting and Storing 
Why collect seed? 
Collecting and sowing your own seeds can be a fun and 
gratifying experience for the home gardener. At first, the 
details may seem overwhelming, yet as you gain experience, 
and are rewarded with new seedlings, you may find yourself 
inspecting your flowers closely in anticipation, and seed saving 
could become second nature to you. 
Home gardeners can collect their own seeds from their own 
plants. Information that is normally found on commercial seed 
packets can be located in books or websites. While your 
choices are limited by how many plants grow in a particular 
garden area, joining a seed exchange group increases the 
availability of saved seed for your future planting. The joyful 
thought of watching seeds magically sprout next year, or the 
great disappointment if they fail, encourages us to look into 
best practices for collecting and storing plant seeds. 
How to Collect Seed 
The first step is to choose healthy plants with high quality 
seedpods and fruits for seed collection. Healthy plants show 
vigorous growth, exhibit resistance to pests and diseases, 
produce good quality fruit, and produce high yields. As the 
chosen plants finish flowering, look for swelling seedpods or 
ripening fruit. Wait until they are fully mature. It is important 
to collect only fully mature or ripened seed. Sometimes, nearly 
mature seeds may ripen off the plant, if they remain in their 
seedpods. If picked too early, the embryo will not survive the 
drying out process, or if picked too late, the wind may blow 
away the seed. 
Fine, nylon-mesh bags work universally well for collecting 
seeds and seed structures. Paper bags work well for seeds, 
cloth bags for panicles or dry fruit, and open baskets for fleshy 
fruit but be sure not to squash the fruit. Do not let seeds 
become hot or moldy. 
Seed propagation preserves and promotes genetic diversity. 
The result of the sexual union of flower parts (male and 
female). Each contains an embryo, a packet of energy and a 
protective coating. Some annual flowers and vegetables have 
been developed to come as true to type as possible from seed, 
others will result in a wider variety of offspring types. Plants 
reproduce either by seed or by vegetative parts. Asexual or 
vegetative propagation duplicates exact copies or clones of a 
given plant resulting in no genetic variation. Vegetative 
propagation includes layering, division, cuttings, grafting, 
budding and tissue culture. 
Dry seed pods With dry seed pods, extract the ride seeds by 
hanging them upside down over a paper bag in a shaded, dry, airy 
place and wait for the seeds to fall. An occasional gentle tap will 
help. Cut clustered seed heads such as those of marigolds whole 
and lay on a newspaper to dry. Whenever you harvest your own 
seed, remove as much of the chaff and other vegetable material as 
possible before storing. This material, if sown along with the 
seed, tends to rot and may encourage fungal diseases. 
Moist fruit For moist fruit, such as ripe tomato or cucumber, the 
seed is surrounded by mucilage. When the fruit is fully colored 
and ripe, scoop out these seeds and wash them in a fine sieve 
under running water to remove the mucilage. Allow them to dry in 
the shade. 
If the mucilage is difficult to dislodge, with a gloved hand gently 
rub the seed against the wire mesh screen of the sieve. Once the 
mucilage is removed, place the seeds to dry in a single layer on 
absorbent newspaper in the shade. Turn over so both sides dry or 
dry both sides at the same time by suspending the seed between 
layers of mosquito netting. Label batches of seed to keep track of 
what is drying where. 
How to Store Seed 
Clean & Dry Only clean and well-dried seed should be stored. 
The two deadly enemies of stored seed are warmth and moisture. 
So, inspect the seed one last time before it is stored. Is it the very 
best you could collect? Is it clean, dry, and free of chaff and other 
debris? To keep stored seeds cool and dry, store them in clean, 
airtight containers or in small paper bags in the bottom drawer of 
your refrigerator. Paper bags, unlike plastic, allow the moisture to 
escape from the seed, so mold and rot is less likely. The cool 
refrigerator temperature slows down the natural respiration and 
deterioration of the seed. Clearly label the containers with the 
name of the plant and the date and place of its collection. 
Cool & Dry How long seed last in storage depends on the type 
and quality of seed saved and the storage conditions. Some 
deterioration is inevitable. Aim to use all stored seed next year or 
within two or three seasons from the time of collection, as 
sprouting or germination rates will go down with time. In general, 
the lower the humidity and temperature in storage, the longer the 
viability of the stored seed. 
By Nancy Pollard, Horticulture Educator with Steven G. Canavis UIE 
Master Gardener, Matteson, IL. 
8/07 Reference: Manual of Seed Handling in Gene Banks, Biodiversity 
International 2006 
University of Illinois Extension in Cook County, 2007. 
University of Illinois * U.S. Department of Agriculture * Local Extension Councils Cooperating 
University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.

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Seed Collecting and Storing ~ University of Illinois

  • 1. Seed Collecting and Storing Why collect seed? Collecting and sowing your own seeds can be a fun and gratifying experience for the home gardener. At first, the details may seem overwhelming, yet as you gain experience, and are rewarded with new seedlings, you may find yourself inspecting your flowers closely in anticipation, and seed saving could become second nature to you. Home gardeners can collect their own seeds from their own plants. Information that is normally found on commercial seed packets can be located in books or websites. While your choices are limited by how many plants grow in a particular garden area, joining a seed exchange group increases the availability of saved seed for your future planting. The joyful thought of watching seeds magically sprout next year, or the great disappointment if they fail, encourages us to look into best practices for collecting and storing plant seeds. How to Collect Seed The first step is to choose healthy plants with high quality seedpods and fruits for seed collection. Healthy plants show vigorous growth, exhibit resistance to pests and diseases, produce good quality fruit, and produce high yields. As the chosen plants finish flowering, look for swelling seedpods or ripening fruit. Wait until they are fully mature. It is important to collect only fully mature or ripened seed. Sometimes, nearly mature seeds may ripen off the plant, if they remain in their seedpods. If picked too early, the embryo will not survive the drying out process, or if picked too late, the wind may blow away the seed. Fine, nylon-mesh bags work universally well for collecting seeds and seed structures. Paper bags work well for seeds, cloth bags for panicles or dry fruit, and open baskets for fleshy fruit but be sure not to squash the fruit. Do not let seeds become hot or moldy. Seed propagation preserves and promotes genetic diversity. The result of the sexual union of flower parts (male and female). Each contains an embryo, a packet of energy and a protective coating. Some annual flowers and vegetables have been developed to come as true to type as possible from seed, others will result in a wider variety of offspring types. Plants reproduce either by seed or by vegetative parts. Asexual or vegetative propagation duplicates exact copies or clones of a given plant resulting in no genetic variation. Vegetative propagation includes layering, division, cuttings, grafting, budding and tissue culture. Dry seed pods With dry seed pods, extract the ride seeds by hanging them upside down over a paper bag in a shaded, dry, airy place and wait for the seeds to fall. An occasional gentle tap will help. Cut clustered seed heads such as those of marigolds whole and lay on a newspaper to dry. Whenever you harvest your own seed, remove as much of the chaff and other vegetable material as possible before storing. This material, if sown along with the seed, tends to rot and may encourage fungal diseases. Moist fruit For moist fruit, such as ripe tomato or cucumber, the seed is surrounded by mucilage. When the fruit is fully colored and ripe, scoop out these seeds and wash them in a fine sieve under running water to remove the mucilage. Allow them to dry in the shade. If the mucilage is difficult to dislodge, with a gloved hand gently rub the seed against the wire mesh screen of the sieve. Once the mucilage is removed, place the seeds to dry in a single layer on absorbent newspaper in the shade. Turn over so both sides dry or dry both sides at the same time by suspending the seed between layers of mosquito netting. Label batches of seed to keep track of what is drying where. How to Store Seed Clean & Dry Only clean and well-dried seed should be stored. The two deadly enemies of stored seed are warmth and moisture. So, inspect the seed one last time before it is stored. Is it the very best you could collect? Is it clean, dry, and free of chaff and other debris? To keep stored seeds cool and dry, store them in clean, airtight containers or in small paper bags in the bottom drawer of your refrigerator. Paper bags, unlike plastic, allow the moisture to escape from the seed, so mold and rot is less likely. The cool refrigerator temperature slows down the natural respiration and deterioration of the seed. Clearly label the containers with the name of the plant and the date and place of its collection. Cool & Dry How long seed last in storage depends on the type and quality of seed saved and the storage conditions. Some deterioration is inevitable. Aim to use all stored seed next year or within two or three seasons from the time of collection, as sprouting or germination rates will go down with time. In general, the lower the humidity and temperature in storage, the longer the viability of the stored seed. By Nancy Pollard, Horticulture Educator with Steven G. Canavis UIE Master Gardener, Matteson, IL. 8/07 Reference: Manual of Seed Handling in Gene Banks, Biodiversity International 2006 University of Illinois Extension in Cook County, 2007. University of Illinois * U.S. Department of Agriculture * Local Extension Councils Cooperating University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.