Report

1. BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
Department of Fashion Design &Technology
A Report
On
Raihan Apparels Limited
Submitted By
MD. NOMANUL ISLAM
ID: 141-062-0-225
BATCH: 141, FDT-2
Supervised
Bishawjit Kumar Das
Lecturer
Department of Fashion Design & Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
MAY, 2018

2. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology ii
DECLARATION
I hereby declare that, this internship has been done by me under the supervision of
Bishawjit Kumar Das Lecturer and BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology. I also
declare that, neither this report nor any part of this has been submitted elsewhere for
award of any degree or diploma.
Md. Nomanul Islam
ID : 141-062-0-225
Batch : 141 –FDT-2
Department of Fashion Design &Technology

3. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology iii
29th May, 2018
Bishawjit Kumar Das
Lecturer
Department of Fashion Design & Technology
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT)
Subject: Submission of the Internship report on “Raihan Apparels Limited”
Dear Sir,
With due respect, as a student of BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT),
I have prepared my internship report on “Raihan Apparels Limited”
I have tried my level best to follow your guidelines in every aspect of planning of this
report. I have also collected what I believe to be the most important information to make
this report specific and coherent as possible. I enjoyed the challenge of preparing the
report as it provided me with an opportunity to enlarge knowledge.
I am honestly thankful for your guidance during the preparation of this report. I hope you
will appreciate my effort. I have done the study in a complete form and I have tried my
level best to conduct this in a professional manner. It is true that, it could have been done
in a better way if there were not limitations. I hope you will assess my report considering
the limitations of the study.
Sincerely yours,
Md. Nomanul Islam
Id. 141-062-0-225
FDT-2

4. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to thank our honorable course teacher Bishawjit Kumar Das, Lecturer of
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT) for his guidance, help and
encouragement throughout the process of the internship report. I am very grateful for his
kind advice and instruction.
Our Eight-week Internship at Raihan Apparels Limited has proved to be one of the most
integral and important part of our course curriculum. We were able to gain an insight into
the working of an industry from close proximity as well as being involved in intricate
problems of production planning and the product development process.
At Raihan Apparels Limited we would like to thank.
Garments Supervisor
Farhan Faizus Salehin
Merchandiser, R.A.L
Email: farhan.faizus@icl.bdrmg.com
Phone: 01675506382
All respective department heads and staff.

5. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology v
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Contents Page No.
Declaration …………………………………………………………….………………....i
Letter of approval ………………………………………………………………………..ii
Acknowledgement ………..………………………………………….………………….iii
Table of contents ……………………………………………………….…………….…iv
Executive Summary …………………………………...…….….....................……….. 01
Chapter-1: Factory profile…………..………………..……………………….…(03-10)
Chapter-2: Textile Unit ………………..…………………………………………(11-72)
2.1. Knitting section ……….……………………………………..…………….…(12-26)
2.1.1 Introduction…………………………………………..…..…………..12
2.1.2Basics of Knitting ……………….…..…………………..............(13-14)
2.1.3 Organ gram of knitting section……………………….……………...15
2.1.4 Layout of knitting section………………………….........………..….16
2.1.5 Machine Profile………………………….……….............……...(17-19)
2.1.6 Different part of knitting machine…………………..………………..20
2.1.7 Source of yarn…………………………………………………..……20
2.1.8 Type of yarn use………………………………………………..….…20
2.1.9 Different brand of Lycra……………………………..………………20
2.1.10 Sequence of operation in knitting section ………………………….21
2.1.11 Process flow chart for knitting ……………………………………..21
2.1.12 Production calculation…………………………………...………….22
2.1.13 Production parameter…………………………………….…………22
2.1.14 Technique use to increase productivity………………...……….......23
2.1.15 Considerable points to produce knitted fabric ………………...…....23
2.1.16 Ends product……………………………………………...…………23
2.1.17 knitting faults……………………………………………...…...(23-24)
2.1.18 Quality assurance system of knitting …………………...………......25
2.1.19 Design study…………………………………………………...(25-26)
2.1.20 Pictorial view……………………………………………………….26
2.2. Batching section………………………………………………….........…..…(27-28)
2.2.1 Introduction…………………………………………………………...27
2.2.2 Organ gram…………………………………………………………...27
2.2.3 Type of batching……………………………………………………...27
2.2.4 Machine used in batching…………………………………………….27
2.2.5 Function or Purpose of Batch Section………………………………..27
2.2.6 Proper batching criteria……………………………………………....28
2.2.7 Batch management…………………………………………………...28
2.2.8 Batch calculation……………………………………………………..28
2.2.9 Calculation of rope length……………………………………………28
2.2.10 Pictorial view………………………………………………………….28

6. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology vi
2.3. Color Lab………………………………………………………….................(29-36)
2.3.1Introduction ……………………………………………………............29
2.3.2 Organ gram of color lab………………………………………….........29
2.3.3 Layout of dyeing lab…………………………………………..............30
2.3.4 Machine specification……………………………………………........31
2.3.5 Importance and development of lab dip……………………...............31
2.3.6 Sequence of lab operations…………………………………...............32
2.3.7 Spectrophotometer…………………………………………..........(32-33)
2.3.8 Working flow chart of color lab…………………………....................34
2.3.9 Lab dyeing procedure for cotton…………………………...................35
2.3.10 washing off procedure………………………………….....................35
2.3.11 Collection of lab dip sample with recipe……………………............36
2.4. Textile Texting Lab ………………………………………………...............(37-40)
2.4.1 Standard of textile testing…………………………………….............37
2.4.2 Standard of fiber analysis……………………………….....................38
2.4.3 Standard of analytical lab……………………………….....................38
2.4.4 Chemical test………………………………………………................38
2.4.5 Physical test……………………………………………......................39
2.4.6 Pictorial view………………………………………………................40
2.5 Dyeing section…………………………………………………………….....(41-60)
2.5.1 Introduction…………………………………………………………...41
2.5.2 Organ gram………………………………………………………..…..41
2.5.3 Layout of dyeing section……………………………………………...42
2.5.4 Machine specification…………………………………………….(43-44)
2.5.5 Machine Capacity ………………………………………………..(44-45)
2.5.6 Dyeing floor process flowchart …………………………………........46
2.5.7 Duties& Responsibilities of dyeing personnel ……………………….47
2.5.8 Dyeing process for white color ………………………………….(50-51)
2.5.9 Dyeing process for light blue color………………………………(52-55)
2.5.10 Dyeing process for black color………………………………….(55-58)
2.5.11 Dyeing cost of different color………………………………...……..59
2.5.12 Dyed sample………………………………………………………....59
2.5.13 Dyeing parameter…………………………………………………....59
2.5.14 Dyeing faults………………………………………………………...60
2.5.15 Pictorial view………………………………………………………..60
2.6. Fabric Finishing section……………………………………………………(61-67)
2.6.1 Introduction……………………………………….………………….61
2.6.2 Organ gram……………………………………….…………………..62
2.6.3 Layout of finishing section………………………….………………..62

7. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology vii
2.6.4 Machine details…………………………………….………….…(63-67)
2.6.5 Quality assurance system in finishing………………..………………67
2.6.6 Pictorial view………………………………………………..………..67
2.7 Washing Section……………………………………………………………..(68-72)
2.7.1 Introduction………………………………………………….………....68
2.7.2 Organ gram………………………………………………………..…….68
2.7.3 Layout of washing section………………………………………………69
2.7.4 Machine specification……………………………………………….…...70
2.7.5 Various garments wash………………………………………………71
2.7.6 Process of Antique wash……………………………………………..72
2.7.7 Pictorial View………………………………………………………..72
Chapter-3: Garment Unit ……………..……………………………………........(74-95)
3.1. Sample Section...……………………………………….……………….......... (75-76)
3.1.1 What is Sample & it’s importance ...………………………………….75
3.1.2 Types of sample ...………………………………………………….....75
3.1.3 Stage of Sample ...………………………………………………….....75
3.1.4 C&A Sampling stage ...………………………………………..….. . 76
3.2. Cutting Section...………………………………….……….…….................... (77-79)
3.2.1Introduction……………………………………………………..……77
3.2.2 Organ gram ………………………………………………………....77
3.2.3 Layout of the section………………………………….…………..…...77
3.2.4 Machine description of straight knife cutting m/c…………………...78
3.2.5 Method of marker making…………………………….…………….79
3.2.6 Fabric spreading m/c…………………………..………………………79
3.2.7 Pictorial view……………………………………………………….…79
3.3. Printing section …………………………………………………………...(80-85)
3.3.1 Introduction……………………………………………………………80
3.3.2 Layout of the section …..…………………………………..………….81
3.3.3 Steps of textile printing……………………………………..…………82
3.3.4 Style of textile printing………………………………………………..82
3.3.5 Method of printing….…………………………………………………82
3.3.6 Flow chart of printing…………………………………………………83
3.3.7 Various design Software for printing………………………….………84
3.3.8 Basic color for printing………………………………………..………84
3.3.9 Pictorial view…………………………………..……...........................85

8. BGMEA University of Fashion &Technology viii
3.4. Embroidery section …………………………………………………….....…(86-90)
3.4.1 Introduction……………………………………………………….…....86
3.4.2 Organ gram………………………………………………………...…..86
3.4.3 Layout of the section…………………………………………………..87
3.4.4 Machine Specification…………………………………………………88
3.4.5 Flow chart of embroidery………………………..………..............…...89
3.4.6 Type of embroidery used in Raihan Apparels Limited…………........90
3.4.7 Pictorial view…………………………………………….......................90
3.5. Sewing section ………………………………………………......................…(91-95)
3.5.1 Introduction…………………………………………………………….91
3.5.2 Organ gram…………………………………………….……………….91
3.5.3 Sewing flow chart………………………………….………………(91-92)
3.5.4 Sewing problem and solution…………………………………..(92-95)
3.5.5 Pictorial view……………………………………….….……………95
Chapter-4: Industrial Engineering (IE) Section…………..…………………(96-99)
Chapter-5: Quality Assurance Department ……………..…………………..(100-103)
Chapter-6: Water treatment plant (ETP) ……………..…………………… (104-105)
Chapter-7: Impact of Internship …………..……………………………….…….106
Chapter-8: Recommendation …………..…………………………………...…....107
Chapter-9:Conclusion………………………………………………..…………….108

9. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those countries for producing
their apparel products where different types of mills have established as a one stop source for
the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer's expectation by developing and
providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety
& Environmental impact. And also assure complete compliance with the international quality
standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working
condition/standards. In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile Industry those are
producing high quality textile and apparel product. Raihan Apparels Limited is one of
them. Raihan Apparels Limited is Composite Knit Garments Manufacturer & Exporter,
having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US $ 80 Million. They have
Different types of knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by
mostly Japan, Taiwan, U.K, USA, China, etc. which are very latest. It has high production
where 20 tons of knitted and 45 tones finished fabrics are produced per day. The production
is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in Raihan
Apparels Limited are textile graduates. All the Yarn, Chemicals and dyes use for Knitting,
dyeing and finishing are well branded. They produce their product for their buyer and client
those are coming from international market like USA,U.K, Sweden, Ireland, France,
Germany, Belgium, Spain. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so
production cannot hamper. In this report, I have tried to give some information about Raihan
Apparels Limited. and we have observed that Raihan Apparels Limited. Produce high
quality fabric and fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by
following different internationally recommended standard method. I started my intern there at
8 Weeks.

10. 1
CHAPTER 01
FACTORY PROFILE

11. 2
GENERALINFORMATION OF THE FACTORY

12. 3
1.1 FactoryLocation
1.2 INFORMATION OF THE FACTORY:
Raihan Apparels Limited started in the year 2012. Our workforce of three hundred allocated
into teams according to their skills, ensures the completion of the R.A.L process. Starting
from the merchandising team to the production team down to the cleaning and catering,
everyone ensures a flow in the workplace from which everyone is benefited. Each team is
equipped with adequate technology and expertise, controlled by skilled management to
deliver consistent quality. Our merchandising team for one is not bound to production; they
are integrated in to every step of the production process and focuses on constant client
feedback from development through production.
Quality & consistency are default requirements. The ‘R.A.L Advantage’ ensures that our
teams put their every effort at procuring and allocating resources to their best. Along with a
continuous effort of innovating and adapting to the clients fashion needs. With every client’s
requirements, our team ensures that they find the right fabrics finished to the right color,
within their costs and in the end giving the quality that brings reliability. Monitoring is a key
issue in the whole process, therefore R.A.L has a ‘Every-step-counts’ method, where checks
and balances are made at every part of the production starting from fabric rolls to stacking
cartons. The ‘RAL Advantage’ fine tunes the whole process with increased observation,
reporting, feedback, correction where necessary and eliminates wastage in terms of time,
space and resource.

13. 4
1.3 LOCATION OF THE FACTORY:
OFFICE ADDRESS
Madina Complex
53 Bazar Road
Kamarpara, Turag
Dhaka-1230
Bangladesh.
PHONE
+88 02 8981991
+88 02 8981990
EMAIL
info@raihanapparels.com

14. 5
1.4 FACTORY LAY-OUT:

15. 6
1.5 Machinery’s List
Raihan Apparels Ltd.
Modina Complex, 53 bazar road, Kamarpara,
Turag, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh.
88 02 8981990, 8981991
Name of Machinery’s Brand Model no. Quantity
1-Needle, Lockstitch Sewing
Machine (Auto)
JUKI DDL8700H7WB 72 Set
1-Needle, Lockstitch Sewing
Machine (Manual)
JUKI DDL8700H 30 Set
2-Needle , Semi Dry head,
Lockstitch Machine
JUKI LH3528AGF 04 Set
2-Needle feed Lockstitch
Machine
JUKI LH3568AGF 02 Set
2 Needle Chain stitch
Machine
JUKI LH3528AGF7WB 10 Set
5 Thread Over lock Machine JUKI Mo6716SFH660H 18 Set
Feed of The Arm Double
Chain Stitch
JUKI MS1261F/Vo45S 09 Set
4 needle, 8 thread Elastic
inserting machine
KANSAI
SPECIAL
DFB-1404PMD 04 Set
Belt loop Making machine
KANSAI
SPECIAL
B-2000C 02 Set
Pocket Faicing Attaching
KANSAI
SPECIAL
WX-8842-01 03 Set
Waist band Making
Machinehine
KANSAI
SPECIAL
DFB-1411PXP 02 Set
Barteck Computer control
Machine
JUKI
LK1900AHS/MC596K
SS
09 Set
Eyelet Hole JUKI MEB3200JSKA 01 Set
1 Needle Lock Stitch Button JUKI LBH781U 02 Set

16. 7
Hole Machine
Button Stitching Machine JUKI
LK1903ASS301/MC5
96KSS
02 Set
Belt Loop Attaching machine JUKI MOL254DABCDE 01 Set
Pocket Decoration computer
control Machine
JUKI
AMS210ENHLS2210
SZ5000F/MC587k
01 Set
Pocket hemmer machine HAMS MHA-P100M 01 Set
Bottom Rolling machine JUKI DLN6390S 02 Set
Febric Inspection machine MEL FIM-655 01 Set
Fusing Machine JUKI TBA 01 Set
Cutting Machine K.M K.S AU-V-10’ 03 Set
End Cutter Machine EASTMAN EC-3 02 Set
Vacuum Iron Table COOLSET CST-ST 10 Set
Inseam Ironing VELT UT000003 01 Set
Electric heat steam Iron Velt/Local 2129/ 05 Set
Snap Button Zusan CM-818 04 Set
Button Pull test Machine TBA 01 Set
Heat seal machine Local 01 Set
Generator-232 KVA Teksan TJ519 01 Set
100kg Steam Boiler Local 01 Set
28 Kg Electric Boiler Local 01 Set
Total= 207 Set

17. 8
1.6 Machine Picture

18. 9

19. 10

20. 11
1.7 CONTACT R.A.L
Join us on Facebook to be leave a comment or feedback. We are always active and eager to
help our visitors with any required degree of information. Contact Us to know more about
about support, services & specifications.
1.8 Production & Factory
Our workforce comprises of experienced and highly skilled individuals working on a factory
space of 28,000 sq-ft. Constant monitoring all through production takes place through our
Quality Control department.

21. 12
1.9 About Ourselves
We have a very strong Manufacturing/Supplier base and are Quality and Environment
cautious organization having state of the art compliant factories equipped with the most
modern machinery, capable of producing any Style/Quantity in a shorter lead-time.
1.10 Business Integration
Strategic units and business relations are the backbone of our communities. We have set up
several liaisons to effortlessly and seamlessly work with other industries across the globe.
1.11 Build Is In Itself A Quality
The build quality for Apparels comes from chosen materials, fabrics and the very thread that
binds all of it together. At RAL, we never compromise quality over production volume.

22. 13
1.12 Make The Ends Meet
About the time we can make the ends meet, somebody moves the ends a bit further. With us,
time a very valuable commodity and we consider every single variable and make the ends
meet through keeping tight schedules to meet clients deadlines.
1.13 Machinery List
Almost all our quality improvement comes via our use of technology and high end machinery
for manufacturing, layout, processing, and procedures.
1.14 Perfection In Details
A product is only as good as its details. Such levels of inspection only comes from
experience, where one has to go beyond machinery, specification and visualization to match
products to perfection. RAL is built with experienced and dedicated group of management
and quality control teams to ensure that perfections remains in every bits of detail.

23. 14
1.15 Ral Gallery
Our gallery provides a better insight in to our factory and facilities through series of images.
The gallery provides a virtual preview of our technology, specifications, workforce, ethics
and management.
1.16 Factory Buyers
1. Global
2. Lead Time
3. Omni
4. Inovatibe
5. Tex Island
6. Tao
7. Jeans Fritz

24. 15
1.16 OPERATION FLOWCHART OF PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT–UKDL
(Woven Section)
Merchandising
Sampling
Purchase
Warehouse
PPC
Cutting
Sewing
Washing
Finishing
Packaging
Ma
inte
nan
ce
Ind
ustr
ial
Eng
inee
ring
Qu
alit
y
Ad
mini
stra
tion,
Hu
man
Res
ourc
e &
Co
mpli
ance
&
Co
mpli
ance
Shipping

25. 16
Chapter 2
STORE SECTION

26. 17
2.1 Store
All Types of Trims And accessories are stored here
3types of store room
1. Trims & Accessories store
2. Fabric store
3. General store
2.2 Trims & Accessories Store
# 2 Types Label
1. Main Label
2. Sub Label
# 3 Types Of Zipper
1. Metal
2. Visilon
3. Nylon
# 2 Types Of Illustic
1. Regular Illustic
2. Adjustable Illustic
# 3 Types Of Button
1. Poly Button
2. Chalk Button
3. Metal Button a)Flat b)Shank c)Snap/Press
# Eyelet / Grommet
# 2 Types Of Rebet
1. Nipple Up
2. Cap

27. 18
# Match Book
# Size Ticket / Logo Sticker
# Size Label
# Care Label
# Joker Label
# Price Tag
# 2 Types Of Thread
1. General Thread
2. Magic Thread
Fabric Store
Many Kind Of Fabric Are Stored Here.
General Store
Without Trims & Accessories Stores , Fabric Stores All Instrument Are needed A Factory
Are stored Here.
2.3 Store Room Activities
CT PAD (Un Loading): Briefly known as customs Trade partnership against terrorism. At
first, it was approved by Buyer. It is a restricted area with full protection against terrorism in
the time of loading and unloading garment and accessories. Specific person are allowed to
enter here. Commercial manager sanding all relevant documents by mail of the goods before
unloading.
Then store manager will be responsible inform to GMA/GMP (Buyer) for their reference by
mail.

28. 19
Chapter 3
SAMPLING, PATTERN &
CAD DEPARTMEN

29. 20
3.1 INTRODUCTION:
Sampling is basically the process of producing some prototype garments in order to match the
various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. As soon as any order is
received the tech pack and requisition form is handed over to the sampling department and
various samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the
buyer.
CAD Department
Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing because if the buyer
is not satisfied by the samples, this puts the following at risk:

30. 21
- Placement of the order
- Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced.
When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alternations or
changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style.
In these stage, the company checks the feasibility of the garment whether it is affordable or
not and whether the company has the required machineries to do the operations to make that
particular style of garment or not.
Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be
faced during the bulk production.
Also this department is responsible for patterns and markers to be made for all the orders.
3.2 OBJECTIVE:
- To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.
- To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
- To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost
quotations.
- To develop efficient patterns and markers.
3.3 DIFFERENT TYPES OF SAMPLES:
GENERAL SAMPLES SAMPLES MADE IN UTAH (UKDLW)
- Development sample
- Fit/Proto sample
- Coordination sample
- Salesmanship sample
- Fit sample
- Photo shoot sample
- GPT sample
- Add sample
- Jump size set sample
- Pre-production sample
- Wash sample
- Development Sample.
- Market Sample.
- Salesman Sample.
- Fit Sample.
- Lab Sample
- Pre-Production Sample.
- Top Sample.
- Etc.

31. 3.4 PROCESSFLOW OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT:
OK
Not OK
OK
Not OK
OK
Sampling Supervisor should assign operators to make a group and work on a particular style.
Group should be made according to the complexity of the style. And the operators should be
instructed about the flow of the operation sequence for required sewing processes.
If
Cut parts are issued for embroidery
(if necessary) with signature of both
receiving and issuing personnel
After receiving the parts with embroidery, they are checked by concerned QA personnel
If
Cut parts with embroidery are issued
for sewing with signature of both
receiving and issuing personnel
Not OK
Raw material should be issued for cutting to concerned personnel with signature of issuing and
receiving personnel
QA personnel should verify quality of raw material
If
Procure good quality
raw material
Fabric is sent for cutting, trims and
accessories are given to the concerned
personnel with signature of QA
personnel and receiving personnel
Fabric should be cut and concernded QA personnel should match the cut parts with the
pattern
OK
Not OK
If
Process-A: Hard copy of requisition form and raw material is received from merchandiser
Pattern for the same should be made along with shrinkage variation by CAD, Verified on
Software by pattern maker and Printed
Patterns should be signed by
concerned QA personnel and sent to
raw material issuing authority
Style should be analyzed by the concerned personnel and allocate pattern master
Patterns should be verified by QA personnel according to the style

32. OK
OK
Not OK
In line inspection should be done time to time as per the complexity of the style
If
Sewing process finishes and finished product is sent for inspection by QA personnel
Finished samples are inspected by
concerned QA personnel
OK
Not OK
OK
Not approved by buyer
Approved by buyer
Not OK
If
Not approved
QA personnel inspect the finished products according to the style and send for necessary
finish
If dry finish If wet finish
Products are sent for ironing with signature
of receiving and issuing authority
Products are sent for washing with
signature of receiving and issuing authority
Washed samples are inspected by
concerned QA personnel
If
Finished products are packed and shipped to the merchandiser along with signature of head of
QA, head of sampling
If
Return to Process:Aaccording to
buyer’s comment
Prepare for next operation

33. 3.5 PROCEDURE
In this department, there are mainly two sub divisions i.e.
PATTERN MAKING Section consists of pattern making and grading, marker making
and printing the pattern and cutting of that pattern. The marker making section works
in similar manner for bulk production also.
SAMPLING Section consists of cutting, sewing, trimming inspection etc. sub-
sections. In the cutting section, manually patterns are transferred on the fabric and
fabric is cut accordingly by cutters. Sewing section is the sub-section the cut parts of
the fabric are stitched and become a full garment. Trimming section is the sub-section
where the garments are trimmed after wash and trims are attached to it. Inspection
area is the sub-section where checking is done twice by QA personnel, once before
wash and again after wash. The washing of samples is done in the washing
department. Then after finishing and packaging of the samples they are sent to buyer
through merchandiser for buyer’s approval.
3.6 PATTERN MAKING SECTION:
In this section, the pattern masters are asked to make pattern as per the buyer requirements.
From pattern making to printing, the company uses the CAD software. There are two types of
buyers –
- One who provides the pattern block and tech pack which consists of all the detailed
information about the garment (style, measurements, fabric details, trim details,
shrinkage% etc.), this type of pattern is called buyer block. Only reputed buyers like
H&M send the buyer blocks to the company and for this type of block the pattern
master needs not to change the pattern and they only do grading and make marker of
the patterns and get the print out.
Fig: Printed bulk patterns for different garments.

34. - Buyers who give only the measurements in the form of spec sheet and tech pack
where they only mention about the fabric and trims details as well as the style. For
these types of patterns, the pattern masters have to make the patterns by CAD
software with the given measurements by the buyer given. And for these types of
buyers, the department do shrinkage test and give the details to the pattern masters.
According to that shrinkage % the masters changes the patterns.
Sometimes, some buyers provide wrong measurements, for that the company gives some
suggestions to that buyers and after discussion; the buyers accepted the proposed tech pack or
process given by the company.
3.7 PROCEDURE
The Software used for making patterns and markers are in CAD are:
A. GERBER TECHNOLOGY(ACCUMARK Pattern Design Software):
It is the mother software which is being used since the origin. It is windows based software;
satisfy their most demanding design and production requirements.
B. SHRINKAGE ALLOWANCE:
After receiving the fabric, it goes for shrinkage test. According to the shrinkage test report,
allowance is put in the pattern before finalizing the pattern for further processes.
C. GRADING:
After pattern making, the grading is done to the patterns. Grading is the process of creating a
range of sizes for a single style. Grading a pattern is a way of sizing a pattern up or down
while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern.
Fig: Grading of pattern in GARBER software

35. D. MARKER MAKING:
A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for different sizes of
garments for a specific style of garment that are to be cut out from one spread. Marker
making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style,
fabric and distribution of sizes. Marker making is done by CAD systems which gives
accuracy, increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers. The
efficiency of marker making in the CAD section is 85% - 87%. Size set marker consists of
different size of same style of garment. For different type of appearance of fabric, they use
different markers like solid marker (one way, two way directions), stripes, checks, colors.
In case of manual marker or when marker is given by the buyer, the pattern is placed on
Digitizer, a computerized device which is used to input the pattern in the system for grading,
marker making.
Fig: A Marker of men’s pant
E. PLOTTING:
The plotter is a computer printer for printing vector graphics. Plotters were used in
applications such as computer-aided design. A plotter gives a hard copy of the output.
It draws pictures on paper using a pen. After getting the marker request from the maker
making section, they give the allowances and put the details about the fabric like GSM, style
no. etc. on the pattern block and print it by the plotter. In this section, there are two types of
plotter.

36. Fig: WinDa pattern plotter and cutter
One is used only for print the markers. And the other one is the automatic cutter plotters
which prints the marker and cut the patterns simultaneously which are used in cutting section
of sampling department. Sometimes the patterns are cut manually also.
Fig: WinDa Marker printer

37. 3.8 SAMPLING SECTION:
A. SAMPLING CUTTING SECTION:
After printing the patterns, they are sent to the cutting section of sampling department. Here,
the designated personnel check the measurements of the patterns and match it with the
sample indent. The fabrics in small amount are then issued as per the requirement. After that
the fabrics are kept for fabric relaxation to maintain the dimensional stability of produced
garments. After that the cutter spread the fabric manually for cutting and places the pattern on
it. The length of the lay will be depending on the no. of patterns and the length of the patterns
of a single size of a particular style of garment. The no of lay depends upon the type of fabric,
requirements of samples by the buyers etc. After spreading manually, they trace the pattern
on the fabric and cut accordingly by using straight knife. During cutting, they also cut the
notch marks. After that the parts are sent for sewing.
B. SAMPLING SEWING SECTION:
When the fabric is cut, the next process is sewing. For sewing the modular system is being
used here. A team of operators is producing the full garment i.e. they are attaching all parts of
the garment and for specialized technique they go for other special machines.
C. LOADING PLAN:
This is a plan given to the sewing dept. for the stitching purpose. According to the loading
plan, the supervisor assigns the jobs to the workers and then stitching is done.
Fig: Sampling Sewing Section
After all the operation, the garments are then trimmed and sent to washing department for
washing of garment to get desired shade and style specified by the buyers. After washing of
the garments, those are again sent to the sampling department for further processing.

38. D. SAMPLING TRIMMING SECTION:
After washing, the samples are returned to finishing section of sampling department. It is also
referred as trimming sections. Here the threads are trimmed from the garment. And the rivets,
shanks, buttons, tags etc. are attached to the garments. After that, the garments are sent to the
inspection area for quality checking.
E. SAMPLING INSPECTION SECTION:
After stitching, the garments are sent to the inspection area for stitching quality-check of the
garments. The quality checkers inspects the garment and matches it with the sample indent. If
there is any problem in stitching or cutting or measurements, then respective corrective
actions are taken. If the samples are ok, thenthey are sent for washing.
After washing, the samples are again returned to the sampling department for trimming and
after trimming the garments are sent to inspection area again for checking. The checkers
check each and every detailing of the garment like shade %, measurements etc. 100%
checking of the samples are done here.
The quality parameters checked here:
- Measurements
- Grain line
- Sample indent information
- Shade
- Shrinkage %
- Tech pack
- The placement of the panels
- Pockets, zippers, buttons, rivets, tag etc.
- Small details about that particular style.
After all the procedures, the samples are sent to the merchants along with the patterns and
whole tech pack and merchants send the samples to the buyers for approval.
Fig: GerberDigitizer

39. Fig: Few prepared samples
3.9 MACHINARIES DETAILS:
SL Machine Name Brand/ Model Quantity Source
01 Auto Plotter/ Inkjet
Plotter
WinDa WD-JET-185HR 01 China
02 Pattern Maker WinDa - 01 China
03 Pattern Cutter WinDa WD-FJ 1512 02 China
03 Marker printer WinDa - 02 China
04 Dizitizer GERBER AF-110SC 01 USA
05 Sewing Machines JUKI, PAGASUS - 65 -
06 Cutting Machines - - 01 -
07 Iron Set up - - 04 -
Total 77 -
3.10 MANPOWERDETAILS
Department Designation Manpower
Sample Pattern,
& CAD
Department
Manager 1
Coordinator 1
Assistant Manager/Sample In-Charge 0
Sr. Executive/In-charge 0
Pattern Master (CAD) 4
Pattern Master (Manual) 1
CAD Marker Maker 3
Sample Supervisor 2
Sample Machinist 30
Sample Cutter 3
Iron Man 4
Sample Assistant 4
Sample QC / Executive 4
Total 57

40. 3.11 PROCESSESUNDERTAKEN FOR ‘PROJECTI’
I. Possible Standard operating procedure for sampling department.
II. Marker Inspection
III. Sample Checking Procedure

41. 3.12 PROCESS: I
POSSIBLE STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURE FOR SAMPLING
DEPARTMENT:
PURPOSE:
The most important part of garment manufacturing is sampling. The sampling department
must be very precise and efficient. All the departments in sampling section should have a
series of quality checks and inspections. The series of samples created according to the
buyers’ requisition should be sent to the buyers after particular interval of time. The buyers
comment should be given the most priority, which would be communicated by the
merchandiser with the help of a requisition form. No alteration should be done in any of the
step independently by the department without buyers’ approval. To be precise if the sampling
is not done properly by the department, and then there is a high chance of operation error in
the process, which can even lead to cancellation or withdrawal of order.
RESPONSIBLE:
- Head of sampling.
- Merchandisers.
- Quality control officers.
- Supervisors.
- Inspection teams.
REQUIREMENTS:
- To analyze and observe the buyer requisition form.
- Communication with the merchandisers and gathering the required information and
the raw materials.
- Cost estimation.
- To make precise patterns.
- Proper quality checks and inspections.
- Sequential sample development as required by the buyer, hence meeting their
specification.
- Efficient cutting and marker making.
- Team or group formation for sewing operations, according to which a style is
assigned to the particular groups and they form the samples.
- Taking care of finishing on the basis of dry or wet process.
- Sending it to the buyer and receiving the feedback.
EQUIPMENT & SOFTWARE:
- Cutting Table.
- Hand held straight knife Cutters or Scissors.
- Sewing Machines.
- Iron and ironing tables.
- Desktops.

42. - Automatic Pattern printer and Cutter (Manufacturer: WinDa).
- Marker Printer (Manufacturer: WinDa)
- Auto CAD (Vendor: Gerber)
-
TYPES OF SAMPLES PRODUCED:
- Development Sample.
- Market Sample.
- Salesman Sample.
- Fit Sample.
- Laboratory Sample.
- Pre-Production Sample.
- Top Sample.
-
PROCEDURES:
1. The buyer specifies the sample, fabric and quantity in the requisition form, which is to
be received by the concerned merchandiser.
2. The buyer also provides a specification sheet where all the details about the
measurements, style, and sketch of the product are mentioned.
3. Immediately after reception of requisition form and specification sheet the
merchandiser sends it to the respective sample departments.
4. At the beginning stage the development sample is being produced.
5. Raw material is procured by the merchandiser and sent to the sampling department.
6. The sourced fabric, trims and accessories should be inspected by the concerned
inspection departments and inspection report is generated by the concerned
department head with his signature.
7. In case the pattern is sent by the buyer, then all the pattern parts must be verified by
the CAD/CAM in charge along with QA personnel and if there is any variation, then
it is to be informed to the relevant merchant through buying office/merchandiser and
hence the variation should be corrected. No one else has the authority to alter the
pattern without the head of QAM and buyer’s approval.
8. If the pattern is to be made in-house, then the specifications sheet is analyzed and sent
to the pattern making team or the CAD team.
9. The pattern masters develop block pattern with the help of CAD. The patterns should
be cross checked by themselves in the software itself in reference to the spec sheet.
10. Shrinkage allowances inspection report should be given by concern fabric inspection
department head with his signature.
11. The pattern masters should develop main pattern with the help of CAD along with
shrinkage and seam allowance. The patterns should be cross checked in the software
itself in reference to the spec sheet (pattern accuracy check).
12. The patterns are then printed and cut by the automatic pattern printer and cutter.
13. Patterns are checked by assigned QA personnel and if the pattern is satisfactory
according to the spec sheet by buyer, then the QA personnel along with the sampling

43. department in charge grants it for further processing by signing together with the
CAD in charge and granted to the cutting department.
14. After the pattern gets approved for cutting, raw material should be issued along with
signature of receiving and issuing authority.
15. The concern sample cutting personnel receives the patterns (mini marker) and the
fabric is cut accordingly with scissor. But sometimes if the lay is quite high, then a
hand held straight knife is used.
16. The cut out pattern parts are matched with the original patterns and checked for frayed
edges and other cutting defects by QA personnel.
17. If the cut parts are acceptable, then the cut parts are issued for embroidery or printing
(if necessary) along with signature of issuing and receiving authority.
18. After receiving the cut parts with embroidery or printing should be inspected or
checked by QA personnel and if it is okay, then it is signed and approved for sewing.
19. Sewing teams consisting of 3-4 operators with different skill sets should be formed
according to the complexity of the styles. The operators must be instructed thoroughly
about the sequencing and the operations involved in it.
20. Constant supervision and in-line inspection to be done at regular interval of time. In
case of any defect, it has to be spotted and rectified then and there if possible.
21. After the production of market sample, the product is inspected by the QA inspector
and if it meets the requirements of the buyers spec sheet, then it is packed and to be
sent to the merchandiser followed by the buyer.
22. The buyer checks the sample and reply with their comments on the sample. If
approved, further processes are followed or the same process is repeated according to
the comments.
23. Then according to buyer’s requirement, market, salesman sample are made following
the same process with variation in quantity and necessary requirement by buyer.
24. Followed by fit and pre-production sample, in which block pattern is not made and
the samples produced should be very much specific.
25. If all the above mentioned samples are approved by the buyer, then the preparation for
pilot run is initiated. In which the marker is made by the CAD department and
verified on the software by the pattern maker and printed.
26. The marker which is printed should be matched with the patterns and spec sheet by
QA and if everything is fine, then the marker is signed by QA personnel and is
approved for bulk cutting (marker inspection).
27. After the fabric is laid in the spreading table, a spreading inspection must take place
where fabric tension, selvedge, face side, table marks etc. will have to be inspected.
28. Then the approved marker will be placed on top of the lay and will be made ready for
auto cutting.
29. The soft copy of the approved marker will be transferred to the CAM and then a CAM
marker inspection will take place where the inspector will see the printed marker
placed on the fabric is same as the soft copy provided in the CAM.

44. 3.13 PROCESS: II
Process – Marker Inspection (Cutting Department)
Performed
By:
- Assigned quality
assurance personnel
of the concerned
department.
- Assigned CAD
personnel.
Responsible
Department
- Quality department.
- CAD department.
Purpose:
- To check whether the marker comply with the given patterns.
- To assure the quality of the marker and the quantity of patterns for a given job and
style.
Scope:
- To be done after the marker is printed, before it is to be placed above the lays of
fabric before cutting. It is done by a quality inspector in the cutting department by
placing patterns on the marker.
Equipment:
- Marker table.
- Measuring Tape.
- Original Pattern with shrinkage.
- Marker inspection report format.
Procedure:
- Pre marker checking:
1. The marker should be collected from the CAD department.
2. It should be checked if the marker is approved by sampling department.
3. It should be known how to place the marker.
4. The length and breadth of the marker should be known.
5. The size of marker and ration of pattern should be known.

45. 6. The number of parts in a garment should be known.
- Marker Inspection procedure
1. Buyer style, job number, order number, color, marker length and width, size and
ration of pattern should be mentioned in the report.
2. Then the marker should be laid on the marker table.
3. It should be checked and mentioned in the report whether the marker is made in
proper way or not.
4. The QA personnel should check the marker length and width with the help of
measuring tape and is to be mentioned in the report.
5. Then the patterns should be placed upon the laid marker to check whether the marker
comply with the original pattern or not, and is to be mentioned in the report.
6. And at the same time grain line direction, the cut marks and the drill marks on the
marker must be checked. (100% checking should be done by the QA personnel), and
is to be mentioned in the report.
7. Overlapping of patterns should be checked in the marker and should be mentioned in
the report.
8. In some cases when the dimensions of the marker does not match with given data, or
if the original pattern doesn’t comply with the marker, then it should be sent to CAD
for required correction with the signature of QA personnel.
9. If everything is according to the requirement, then the marker is sent for further
proceedings along with the signature of QI.

46. Flow Chart for Marker Inspection
If
Yes
No
If
Yes
No
Required Action should be taken.
Dimension, Direction, Ratio and
number of parts Known
Approved by Sampling
Department
If
OK
Not OK
Size
If
OK
Not OK
Grain line
If
OK
Not OK
Pieces
Overlapping
If
OK
Not OK
Marker should be revised and corrected.
Marker should be revised and corrected.
Marker should be matched with the patterns
Compatibility
If
OK
Not OK
Direction
If
OK
Not OK
Dimension
If
OK
Not OK
CAD Prepare/Revise & Correct Marker
QC Collects the pattern, Marker and checks
Ma
rke
r
ins
pec
tio
n
Pre
-
Ma
rke
r
Ch
eck
Marker should be approved for cutting

47. 3.14 PROCESS:III
Process – Sample Checking Procedure
Performed By: - The assigned Quality Controller
Responsible Department - Sampling Department
- Quality Department
Purpose:
- To ensure that zero defect sample is delivered to the buyer. Hence decreases pre-
production time.
Scope:
- To be done in the sampling department by the quality controller, where all the
specifications of the given sample is noted and checked after the sample is developed
by the department.
Equipment:
- Measuring tape
- Purchase order
- Technical specification file
- Sample checking format
Procedure:
1. Firstly the following information must be mentioned in the given format
Date, type, style, size, quantity, PO number, wash, Requision date, buyer,
description of garments, merchandiser, received date.
2. Then, the followings must be checked and noted down in the given format. A tick
mark should be given if OK else a cross mark should be given. Along with
appropriate remarks (if necessary).
a. It should be checked whether BOM, Sketch with details, Construction details
are there or not.
b. Comparison of BOM & CD should be made
c. Measurement accuracy, styling and workmanship must be checked.

48. 3. Fabric details, construction, color, GSM according to buyer and the findings also
should be noted in the format.
4. All the trims and accessories should be checked according to buyer’s requirement and
the findings should be noted with necessary remarks along with buyer’s standard.
5. Then styling, construction of the sample should be inspected thoroughly and the
findings also should be noted along with required workmanship comments.
6. The sample must be checked for shade after wash, hand feel, dry process finish taking
buyer’s requirement as standard in consideration. Comments should be made if
necessary.
7. Measurement of the sample should be done and noted down. It is a very important
factor in case of Fit and PP sample.
8. Also special instruction from buyer and remarks against those must be noted if
applicable.
9. All samples should be checked thoroughly by the concerned quality personnel and the
report should be signed by them and Product Development Manager for approval.

49. Flow Chart for Sample Checking Procedure & Report Making Procedure
Colour
If
Not OK
OK
Style & construction
If
Not OK
OK
Trims and accessories
If
OK
Shade & hand feel
If
OK
Send the sample for wash
& necessary finish
Check after receiving the
sample from wash
Measurement
If
OK
Not OK
Receive finished sample
Sample should be checked
Sample
should
be
corrected
or new
sample
should
be made
Not OK
Not OK
Not OK
Date, type, style, size,
quantity, PO number, wash,
Requision date, buyer,
description of garments,
merchandiser, received
date.muust be filled
A tick mark if OK else a cross
mark with remarks (if
necessary).For BOM, Sketch
with details, Construction
details
Write down all the findings in
the format while inspection
The report should be signed
by them and Product
Development Manager for
approval.
Approve for further
processing.

50. Chapter 04
CUTTING DEPARTMENT

51. 4.1 INTRODUCTION:
Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table
or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting department. A spread or layup is
the total amount of fabric required by a single marker.
Fig: Spreading by spreading machine
After fabric relaxation for 24 hours, the fabric is then spread on the table according to the nap
direction of the fabric. The marker is spread over the lay and after that cutting is done. The
laying is done shade wise.
4.2 OBJECTIVE:
- To lay the fabric in correct order.
- To check the parameters of fabric lay.
- To minimize fabric wastage.
- To prepare the lay of fabric properly for cutting.
4.3 PROCEDURE:
As spreading is one of the important processes in any garment manufacturing industry, so, it
needs to be done with proper care. If there is any problem in spreading then it will continue to
cutting. And if the fabric is cut with the defect then the cut panels will be wasted resulting
increasing the manufacturing cost of the garment. The planning department sends cut plan to
the department. And following this cut plan, spreading is done accordingly.

52. Spreading procedure consists of the following sub-processes.
- Fabric relaxation
- Spreading
- Marker Spreading
4.4 FLOW CHART FOR SPREADING DEPARTMENT:
Marker Spreading
Approve for Cutting
Procurement of fabric
from Warehouse
Fabric Relaxation
Pump paper spreading
Poly Spreading
Fabric Spreading
Inspection
OK
Re
cti
fy
Not
OK
Inspection
OK
Not
OK
Re
cti
fy

53. A. FABRIC RELAXATION:
When the fabric comes from the buyer (to be specific
from dyeing and finishing) fabric may remain slightly hot
(As in dryer. stenter, and compactor, heat is applied to the
fabric). So moisture is removed from the fabric and it is
not in its actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in
normal condition for a certain time, the fabric absorbs
moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original nature. This process is called fabric
relaxation.
Fig: Fabric Relaxation Machine
Another reason for fabric relaxation is to maintain dimensional stability of produced
garments. When the fabric is being processed in different finishing machines, it goes under
certain heat and pressure to give it proper shape. But when the heat and pressure is
withdrawn, the shape may change. So if the dimension is become stabilized before cutting, no
chance of strain in garment. So relaxation is very necessary before cutting.
RELAXATION PERIOD:
Relaxation period may vary for different fabrics. But the minimum time for relaxation is 12
hours. But it may vary according to the buyer’s requirement.
B. SPREADING:
A spread may consist of single ply or multiple plies; the weight of the ply is limited by fabric
characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method and vertical capacity of the
spreader. End cutters are used for spreading in case of manual spreading.
Spreading could be two types.
- Manual Spreading, which is the traditional way of spreading.

54. Fig: Manual Spreading
- Spreading by auto spreader which is an automatic machine to lay the fabric faster than
manual spreading.
Fig: Spreading by spreading machine
PROCEDURE:
Spreading procedure could be divided into two segments-
- Pre-spreading procedure
- Spreading procedure
PRE-SPREADING PROCEDURE
1. It should be checked if the fabric shade and batch wise fabric shade is approved or
not.
2. Fabric shrinkage group and shrinkage report should be collected.
3. Quantity of shade variation in a fabric lot should be known and shade band should
be collected.
4. It should be checked whether the marker for bulk production is approved or not.
5. The GSM of fabric should be known and checked according to buyers’
requirement.

55. 4.5 SPREADING ROCEDURE:
1. The Pump sheet (a thin perforated brown paper to prevent the bottom plies from
shifting during cutting) is spread on the vacuum table.
2. Table marks should be made on the pump paper according to the size of the
marker.
3. The fabric is then loaded onto the auto-spreader, in such a manner that the face
side is up.
4. Then an inspection of the dimension (length and width) of the marker with the
fabric is done by placing it on two lays of fabric.
5. Then the fabric is spread lay by lay on the spreading table by the auto-spreader.
6. Meanwhile for each lay, uniformity of each lay, orientation of the lays, selvedge,
narrow width and corner of the fabric should be checked to avoid unwanted
curling of fabric.
7. Marker should be placed in top of the plies and placement of the marker should be
checked considering the table marks
8. Height of the plies should be according to the buyers approved height of lays.
4.6 RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY DEPARTMENT IN SPREADING
Quality inspector and quality controller should be aware of the following check points in
spreading.
- The length and width of the Pump paper should always be more than that of the
marker.
- Table marks must be made on pump sheet.
- Face of the fabric should always be upside.
- It should be checked if the fabric is in correct lay or not and if there is any joint in the
fabric. If found, then it should be checked to know whether they are similar for both
the fabric.
- At the end of fabric lay, total noof plies must be counted at both the ends and must be
same at both the ends.
- For each lay, uniformity of each lay, orientation of the lays, selvedge, narrow width
and corner of the fabric should be checked to avoid unwanted curling of fabric.

56. - Lay height depends on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting
machine on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine. So it
must be accurate and according to buyer’s recommendation.
4.7 IMPORTANT RECORDS MENTIONED BY CUTTING DEPARTMENT:
A. ROLL ISSUE REGISTER:
It is a register mentioned by the cutting department to keep a record of the fabric rolls
received for cutting from warehouse. The records are mentioned according to job no., cut no.
etc.
B. LAY CHART:
It is a report prepared to keep record of the fabric roll being layed, length of lay, total
length of fabric, no. of lays etc. It gives a proper idea about the materials handled while
spreading.
4.8 MAJOR DEFECTS:
A. PLY ALIGNMENT:
Accuracy with which fabric edges, both length and width are aligned during
spreading.
B. SLACK TENSION:
It occurs if it contains excess fabric in each ply. In cutting, a slack spread may create
over sized pieces. It causes in accuracies in assembling and waste fabric.
C. STATIC ELECTRICITY:
It is the result offriction between materials and spreading equipment. Fabrics from
manufactured fibers may have static problems.
4.9 PROCESSES UNDERTAKEN FOR ‘PROJECT I’:
I. Fabric Relaxation.
II. Spreading Quality Inspection

57. 4.10 PROCESS: I
Process – Fabric Relaxation (Cutting Department)
Performed By: - Assigned operator.
- Quality assurance personnel of the concerned department.
Responsible Department - Cutting department.
- Quality department.
Purpose:
- To reduce unwanted shrinkage and crease.
- To increase the drape and fall of the fabric.
Scope:
- To be done before spreading, in the fabric relaxation machine by the operator, in
order to make the fabric ready for the cutting and spreading process.
Equipment:
- Fabric relaxation machine.
- Fabric relaxing racks.
- Bin card
Procedure:
1. The fabric is procured from the fabric inspection storage or from the knitting plant
with signature of receiving and issuing authority.
2. Then the fabric is passed through the fabric relaxation machine with required speed
and pressure.
3. While feeding the fabric, the operators should take care of the selvedge so that it
doesn’t coils at the center and edges.
4. The fabric is passed through three different rollers and the process is inspected by
QA.
5. The Relaxation time and speed is different for woven and knit fabric. Hence the
relaxation time for knit is more (i.e. 20-24 hours) and for woven is less (i.e. 10-12
hours)

58. Flow Chart for Fabric Relaxation
Fabric is stored for relaxation. Relaxation time should depend on the type of fabric.
If
OK
Not OK
Fabrics fed into the machine and Selvedge should be taken care of by QA
Fabric should be checked
Machine should be adjusted to
the required speed and pressure
Pass
Fabric is procured from the
inventory
If
If

59. 4.11 PROCESS: II
Process – Spreading Quality Inspection (Cutting Department)
Performed By: - Operator of the machine.
- Quality assurance personnel of the concerned department.
- The production manager.
- QI Spreading.
Responsible Department - Quality department.
- Cutting department.
Purpose:
- To lay the fabric in correct order.
- To check the parameters of fabric lay.
- To minimize fabric wastage.
Scope:
- To be done in the cutting department while spreading of the fabric by the Quality
Inspector, in which he checks and controls all the parameters before the fabric is
spread.
Equipment:
- Auto-Spreader.
- Spreading Table with vacuum suction.
- Spreading quality inspection report format.
Procedure:
Pre spreading check
6. It should be checked if the fabric shade and batch wise fabric shade is approved or
not.
7. Fabric shrinkage group and shrinkage report should be collected.
8. Quantity of shade variation in a fabric lot should be known and shade band should
be collected.
9. It should be checked whether the marker for bulk production is approved or not.
10. The GSM of fabric should be known and checked according to buyers’
requirement.

60. Spreading Inspection procedure
9. The Pump sheet is spread on the vacuum table. The length and width of the Pump
paper should always be more than that of the marker.
10. Table marks should be made on the pump paper according to the size of the
marker.
11. The fabric is then loaded onto the auto-spreader, in such a manner that the face
side is up.
12. Buyer, job number, order number, style number, color, shade group, quantity of
shade group, fabric width, fabric length, fabric construction, cutting number,
marker length and width and approved fabric consumption should be mentioned in
the report.
13. Then an inspection of the dimension (length and width) of the marker with the
fabric is done by placing it on two lays of fabric.
14. Then the fabric is spread lay by lay on the spreading table by the auto-spreader.
15. It should be checked if the fabric is in correct lay or not and if there is any joint in
the fabric. If found, then it should be checked to know whether they are similar for
both the fabric.
16. Meanwhile for each lay, uniformity of each lay, orientation of the lays, selvedge,
narrow width and corner of the fabric should be checked to avoid unwanted
curling of fabric.
17. Number of plies at both the sides should be counted and mentioned in the report.
18. Marker should be placed in top of the plies and placement of the marker should be
checked considering the table marks and it should be mentioned in the report.
19. Height of the plies should be according to the buyers approved height of lays.

61. Chapter 05
Sewing Department

62. 5.1 SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing Machine
Raihan Apparels LimitedTotal sewing m/c 1694 pcs. .Manpower about 2990. After cutting
fabrics, these are sewed in here by different kinds of stitch with different kinds of sewing
machine. Trims are also sewed here with RMG. All kinds of sewing are done here.
Sewing second:
They have one main sewing floors. At the 2th floors of the factory we visited the among sewing
section. There are 8 lines per lines 1 in line quality controller & 2 product checkers and per unit
1 quality executive. They use box between every machines to keep the fabric dust free.
They follow traditional sewing system that means sewing line being controlled by the quality
inspector & quality supervisor.

63. Sewing is the most important step of garments manufacturing. Sewing means the joining of
garment components with the help of needle and thread. It is the dominant process of garments
assembling and still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in seam as well as in
manufacturing method.
The objectives of the stitching department are
 The cost minimization and
 To minimize wastage
 Best utilization of time
 Quality control by line checker

64. 5.2 In a Ananta Jeanswear Ltd. Of sewing
In Line Work:
After getting all necessary things supervisor will start paper layout and take necessary actions to
avoid the problems which can be effected during pick production time.
Lay out Submit:
Before start the production, supervisors submit the layout sheet in IE & maintenance
department.
PP Meeting:
Before starting the sewing in the line of the new style it has to be conduct pp meeting to avoid
the missing of buyer comments or requirement.
Label Check:
AQC check the label against trim card & give the permission to start the sewing.
Sewing Start:
It is mentioned that sewing will start by size wise which size quantity is huge.
During Sewing:
Supervisor & Line-chief doing the major job during the sewing.
They always try to solve the up-coming problem.

65. Maintain the hourly production with right quality.
Output:
After doing all process and quality check garments will store in output table.
Reporter will collect the garments from output table.
After collecting the garments, reporter will count and delivery the goods in finishing section by
size wise.
5.3 SEWING DEFECT FAULT
Stitch, seam, feed mechanism, needle and thread together determine the seam appearance and
performance. The problems which arise when materials are sewn vary in their seriousness.
Some are major problems which can not be overlooked and for these problems garments will be
rejected by the inspector, where as some are minor problems which are negligible in low quality
garments.
The problems are most conveniently divided into:
1. Problems of fabric distortion known as seam pucker which give rise to poor seam
appearance.
2. Problems of stitch formation which also give rise to poor seam appearance and performance.
3. Problems of damage to fabric along the stitch line.
1. Seam pucker.
2. Broken or open stitch.
3. Staggered stitch.
4. Slipped stitch or skipped stitch.
5. Variable stitch density.
Of them the first two are major problems and the rest are less serious problems.

66. 1. Problems of Seam pucker:
Seam pucker is a major problem. Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along a seam when compared
to a smooth fabric.
The main causes of seam pucker problem are mentioned below-
A) Mainly seam pucker occurs due to unequal tension of feed dog and pressure feet on
Two plies of fabric.
B) It also occurs due to unequal thread tension and unsuitable thread.
C) It may occur due to feeding problem and needle size.
D) It also occurs due to shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.
E) It may occur due to instability of fabric dimension or fabric construction.
The steps that may be taken to reduce seam pucker problem
By using finer thread and fine needle seam pucker problem may
Be reduced.
B) By adjusting proper tension and pressure of feed dog and pressure feet on fabric plies, it can
be removed.
C) By using unshrinkable sewing thread and fabric it can be minimized.
D) By reducing the stitch density it can be reduced.
E) In chain stitching, seam pucker occurs less frequently.
F) By using two plies of fabric with same shrinkage rate seam pucker can be minimized.
2. Problems of stitch formation:
A. Broken or Open stitch:
It is also a major problem of sewing. The reasons of occurring broken or open stitch are
mentioned below –

67. Mainly, due to the breakage of needle or bobbin or looper thread in high speed sewing. This is
responsible for broken or open stitch.
A) Needle thread breakage occurs due to following reasons –
I. If tension on needle thread is more.
Ii. If snarling of yarn occurs in tension disc.
Iii. If fraying of needle thread occurs.
Iv. Excess needle heating or hook heating.
V. Low quality sewing thread.
Vi. Sharp edge of throat plate, hook of bobbin cage, needle groove etc.
B) The causes of bobbin or looper thread breakage are mentioned below –
I. Faulty winding of thread on bobbin.
Ii. Excessive tension on bobbin or looper thread.
Iii. Sharp edge of bobbin cage, looper eye, and spring.
Iv. Faulty fitting of bobbin cage.
The remedies of this problem are-
A) Adjusting proper tension of bobbin and needle thread.
B) Proper unwinding of thread from package.
C) Removing sharp edge of machine parts.
D) Using good quality strong sewing thread.
B. Staggered stitch:
If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line individually they are called
staggered stitches.
The causes of staggered stitches are mentioned below:

68. A) Due to needle deflection and vibration.
B) Due to loose fitting of needle butt inside the needle bar.
C) Due to wrong selection of needle point.
D) Due to combination problem of needle and thread size.
E) Due to faulty speed and motion of feed dog.
F) Due to improper controlling of fabric by the feed mechanism.
The remedies of staggered stitches are as below:
A) Assuring tight fitting of needle inside the needle bar.
B) Adjusting needle point and thread size properly.
C) Adjusting the motion of feed dd) Adjusting the pressure of pressure foot.
C. Slipped or skipped stitch:
If the continuation of stitches in a seam line is hampered by slipping some stitches it is called
slipped or skipped stitch. If the looper in the machine can not pick the loop of needle thread
from the underside, slipped stitch arises.
The causes of slipped stitches are mentioned below:
A) If timing between needle and looper or bobbin is not proper, needle thread loop is not picked
up by bobbin thread loop when required. This will cause slipped stitch.
B) If the loop of needle becomes smaller in size slipped stitch occurs.
C) Unequal tension between the two sets of thread.
D) Deflection or vibration of needle.
E) Due to flagging during sewing.
The remedies the problems are –
A) The timing between needle and looper should be adjusted properly.
B) Needle and thread size should be adjusted.

69. C) Pressure feet and throat plate should be adjusted.
D) Needle thread tension should be proper.
D. Variable stitch density:
It is the variation of number of stitches per unit length of seam. The causes of variable stitch
density are mentioned below:
A) If fabric cannot move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressure feet.
B) Due to faulty feed mechanism. It can occur particularly with materials with sticky or slippery
surfaces.
The remedies of the problem are –
A) Adjustment of pressure feet pressure.
B) By using specialized feed mechanism it can be minimized.
E. Unbalanced stitch:
These types of faults are found mainly in lock stitches. If the interlacement of needle thread and
bobbin thread is not occurred at the middle of two plies of fabric then unbalanced stitch is
formed.
The causes of unbalanced stitches are-
A) If the tension of thread is not accurate.
B) If sewing path is wrong.
C) Faulty settings of bobbin.
D) If lubricant is not used in the thread.
The remedies of the problem are-
A) The tension of thread should be accurate.
B) Thread path should be accurate.
C) The settings of bobbin should accurate.

70. D) By using good quality thread.
3. Problems of damage to the fabric along the stitch line.
A) Mechanical damage:
1. Needles can strike and break fabric yarns and burst the loops in knitted fabrics. For this
appropriate set and ball point needles are necessary.
2. Needles should always be as small as possible.
3. Sometimes the combination of the machine speed and nature of the fabric prevents the yarns
from moving out of the way of the needle sufficiently fast to avoid damage .To solve the
problems either reduce the speed which means lesser production or ensure that the fabric is
adequately lubricated. It calls for having resin finish on the fabric.
B) Needle Heating Damage:
Needles heating occurs as a result of friction between the needle and the fabric being sewn.
In high speed sewing of dense material, temperatures as high as 3000or even 3500c can be
reached.

71. Chapter 06
Finishing & Packing

72. 6.1 Finishing and packing
In production Department garments are stitched by sewing machines. Stitched
garments are finished in the finishing department. Finishing activities are performed
prior packing garments into poly bags. The major activities of a finishing department
include thread trimming, checking garments and ironing.
Work flow chart of finishing and packing section

73. 61
6.2 Activities of the finishing department are listed below
1. ThreadTrimming:
In stitching department thread trails and thread chains are not trimmed neatly. Uncut threads and
thread tails in garments are trimmed in the finishing department by helpers. Uncut and loose threads
on garments are considered defects.
2. Checkinggarments:
All garments are checked at the finishing stage for visuals and measurement. Finishing checkers
check the complete garment inside and out. Checking is done for garment detailing, such as care
labeling, and trims.
3. Button attach and Buttingholing:
Products those have trimming like button, snap button, eyelets are attached in finishing section.
4. Removingstains:
Stains and spots are found on garments. Spots are removed using a hand spot gun or by using a stain
removing machine prior to pressing. Dust and stains can be removed by machine washing. So, many
times finishing department wash garments inside department.
5. Repair work andmending
Defective garments may need to repair for stitching and fabric defects. All repair activities are done
in finishing department itself instead of sending defective garments to stitching department.
6. Ironinggarments:
Garments are ironed using a steam iron. This is done to remove creases in the garment. For knitted
garments measurements are set by steam press. Vacuum pressing tables are used for garment pressing.
7. Folding and tagging:
Pressed garments are folded in a specified dimension. Tags, such as price tags and hang tags are
attached to the garment by means of a Kimble gun or threads.

74. 62
8. Packing garments:
Finally, properly folded garments are packed into poly bags as per customer requirements. Individual
poly bags are then packed into bigger cartons.
9. Preparation of packinglist:
The packing in-charge prepares a packing list for the shipment. After packing is completed for
an order, the finishing department informs the concerned merchant.
10. Internal shipmentaudits
Quality department perform internal shipment audit in the finishing department. This audit is done
prior to final inspection.
11. Documentation andreporting
Like other departments, finishing department maintain production records for pressing, and packing.
Types of packing
There are four (4) types of packing are usually done
 Solid size solidcolor
 Solid size assortcolor
 Assorted size solidcolor
 Assorted size assortedcolor
6.3 Different types of defects inspected by finishing section
 Twisting
 Uncutthread
 Unevenstitch
 Fabricpleat
 Loopthread
 Tuck frontpart
 Neck jointpuckering
 Needlecut

75. 63
 Shading
 Yarncontamination
 Needleline
 Neckpuckering
 Printspot
 Point not match
 Oilspot
 Dirtyspot
 Missingyarn
 Slub
 Poor neckshape
 Stripe notmatch
 Sleeve opening updown
 Side seamuneven
 Brokenstitch
 Skippedstitch
 Joint stitch notmatches

76. 64
6.4 Spotremoving
The General Rules of Spot Removing:
1. The longer a stain remains, the tougher it is toremove.
2. Always treat a stain beforelaundering.
3. Blot gently — never rub; and don't ever blot with hotwater.
6.5 Stain Removal
Stain type Used chemical (commercial name)
1. Oil stain Spot lifter
2. General stain Thinner
3. Termeric stain MRS
4. Ink stain MR
5. Glue stain(Polymer based ) Heat gun
6. Rust stain Markvill
7. Print mark Printvill
6.7 Ironing:
Ironing is the use of a heated tool (an iron) to remove wrinkles from fabric. The heating is
commonly done to a temperature of 180–220 °Celsius, depending on the fabric. Ironing works by
loosening the bonds between the long-chain polymer molecules the fibers of the material. While the
molecules are hot, the fibers are straightened by the weight of the iron, and they hold their new
shape as they cool. Some fabrics, such as cotton, require the addition of water to loosen the
intermolecular bonds.

77. 65
Do not iron
Cool iron (110°)
Medium iron (150°)
Hot iron (200°)
Fig: Basic Ironing Symbols

78. 66
6.8 Trims:
Trims cover all the items used in the garment except the basic fabric. There are hundreds of items
used to manufacture the garments. Proper selection of trims and its quality are very important for
styling; otherwise the garment may be rejected or returned by the customers.
Following is a part of list that covers some names of the items:
 Zipper/Fastener:
 SewingThread:
 Labels:
 Mainlabel
 Sizelabel
 Carelabel
 Content
 Price
 Patch, etc.
 Button
 Eyelet
 Velcro
 String/Cord
 Tags
 Polybag
 Carton
 Sticker
 GumTape
 PlasticClip
 Tagpin
 Hanger

79. 67
• Packing must do on approval packingmethod.
• Single garmentspack.
• Set garmentspack.
• Double setpack.
• Assort color garmentspack.
• Single color garments packetc.
Following information consists on packing (buyer demand)-
• Buyername.
• Sizechart.
• Garmentsphoto.
• Buyer office name, address, helps & complains addressetc.
• Pricechart.
• Composition, colorname.
• Barcode.
• Securitysticker.
• Care labelsticker.
Carton packing- packing does on approval cartooning method.
• No of garments with size & color wise depends on
buyer demand.
• Carton size depends on buyerdemand.
Following information consists on carton (buyer demand)
• Buyername.
• Size setchart.
• Garments photo, name.color.

80. 68
• Ordernumber.
• Stylenumber.
• Cartonnumber.
• Quantity ofgarments.
• Cartonsize.
• Carton gross weight & netweight.
• Port name where loaded&unloaded.

81. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 69
Chapter 07
Fire & Safety

82. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 70
7.1 Fire & Safety

83. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 71

84. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 72

85. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 73
CHAPTER: 8
QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

86. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 74
8.1 QUALITY CONTROL:
Quality control concerned with the evaluation of test data & its application of the textile
process, raw materials, intermediate products & final products.
8.2 QUALITY ASSURANCE:
Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned & systematic actions
necessary to provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy given
requirements for quality.
8.3 Object of quality control:–
 Research/ analysis.
 Selection of raw material.
 Product testing.
 Specification test.
 Should be given economic requirements.
 Quality assurance & so on.
8.4 Quality Management System:
Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts–
8.5 ON LINE QUALITY CONTROL:
On line quality control comprises with the new raw material, process control & finish
fabric inspection.
1. Raw material control: As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality
assurance department must ensure that the best quality of raw material are used in the
production.
 The chemical should be with a known concentration & high degree of purity.
 The dye & chemical should be compatible with each other.
 The fabric must be without faults, with uniform absorbency, & whiteness as per
requirement of the subsequent process.
• Process control: The method chosen for the process must be provided with the
necessary parameters, Temperature, PH, water level, Specific gravity should be
checked at each stage of processes.

87. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 75
• Finish Fabric Inspection: To ensure that only acceptable quality fabric is used for
producing garments & proper quantity of shipment is received from the supplier.
POINT CALCULATION SYSTEM:
Defect area Point
1”–3” 1
3”–6” 2
6”–9” 3
9”–above 4
For hole in fabric 4
Calculation of point is done by– Actual grade point = × 100
If point grade is below 40 then the fabric is ok. If the grade point is more than the 40
points then inform it to respective officer.
The fabric is also checking for the shading defect in side by side & length. Any non-
conformities / shading will be notified to the manager using inspected reports. Roll
wise color uniformity card is maintained for identification of shade variations.
The result of fabric inspection shall be recorded in fabric inspection report.
8.6 ON-LINE TEST:
For pretreatment –
 PH test.
 Absorbency test.
 Residual peroxide test.
 Whiteness test.
 Water quality test.
For Dyeing–
 Shade matching check.
 PH check.
 Wash fastness check.
 Machine checking.

88. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 76
8.7 OFF-LINE QUALITY CONTROL:
Raihan Apparels Limited have all the facility for off-line quality control of the materials
used & processed materials. There are two types of material are tested in laboratory for
the purpose of quality control. There are–
 Fabric
 Raw materials.
Fabric testing:
All the off-line tests for finished can be grouped as follows–
• Physical tests.
• Chemical tests.
Physical test:
 Fabric inspection by-4 point system.
 GSM test.
 Rubbing test.
 Pilling test.
 Shrinkage test.
Chemical test:
• Color fastness to water.
• Color fastness to wash.
• Color fastness to rubbing.
 Color fastness to perspiration etc.
Raw material:
a. Water : PH& Hardness test.
b. Chemical : Purity test

89. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 77
CHAPTER: 9
IMPACT OF INTERNSHIP

90. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 78
9.1 IMPACT OF INTERNSHIP
Industrial training is an integral part of our education in textile engineering. It helps me
to know about the process performed in an industry. It makes me strong enough to
perform my duties in job properly. It also helps me to develop my skill through different
activities.
In this training at Raihan Apparels Limited I have gained following things:
In Dyeing Lab & QC we have learned about process sequence followed in laboratory
and about lab dip and its development process. How to calculate dyeing recipe. In Pre-
treatment we have learned about functions of different chemicals and their application,
the pre-treatment faults and remedies and the machines used in pre-treatment.
In knitting section I learn about different yarn and different type of knitting fabric as
well as production procedure like as came setting, different machine for different knitted
fabric.
In batching section we have a clear idea about machine used in batching.
In color lab section I learn about recipe prediction and calculation. Development of lab
dip sample etc.
In dyeing floor I have learned about the dyeing methods, have learned about the dyeing
methods, gained knowledge about process sequence. In Finishing I learned about
industrial procedure of different textile finishing. In inspection learned about different
faults and their rectifications. In cutting section I saw about how the fabric is cutting and
different cutting machine uses.

91. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 79
In sewing section i learn about how the fabric pieces are join together for different type
of garments. In printing section i learn about different type of printing and their machine.
Chemicals used of printing we also seen.
Beside above this we also gather knowledge different sections. It helped me to become
skilled in conducting different process of textile wet processing. The procedures that an
industry follows from start to end of production. About maintenance system and
techniques followed in an industry. The techniques used to get efficient production.
Experienced about the industrial application of different dyeing processes. Industrial
training helped me to know about the responsibility of a textile engineer in industries. It
also helped me to develop a good communication skill.

92. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 80
CHAPTER: 10
RECOMMENDATION

93. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 81
10.1 RECOMMENDATION
 The knitting section should improve and modern machinery should add.
 The dyeing floor is watery most of the time: it should be cleaned all the time.
 To increase overall efficiency, more skilled labor should be used in a project.
 The machine stoppage time should be analyzed and minimized.
 The maintenance should be carried out when the machine is out of action
(wherever possible) and routine maintenance should be carried out regularly.
 There should be a yarn dyeing project.
 Sitting arrangement of production officers should be improved.

94. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 82
CHAPTER: 11
CONCLUSION

95. BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology 83
11.1 CONCLUSION
I tried my best to gather all necessary information. Actually, within this short time it is
quite impossible to achieve the goal of our industrial attachment.
During my training period, i knew that the mill is fulfilling the country’s best export
oriented finished fabric with the help of its modern machineries & good management
system.
Mill is settled with utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty-
four hours. It has self-power generator system to satisfy total power consumptions of the
mill.
I am enough fortunate that i have got an opportunity of having a training in this mill.
During the training period i received co-operation and association from the authority full
& found all man, machines & materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs &
officers were very sincere & devoted their duties to achieve the company’s goal.
To produce a good quality product, a textile engineer must have a vast knowledge about
the production parameters & how to produce high quality product. Now-a-days Textile
field becomes very competitive & the buyer wants 100% quality product. For this it is
very important to know about the latest technologies in textile sector. In our training
period we have learned many things, different types of machines and their functions,
techniques of productions and management system, the responsibility of different
departments of the factory. So it will be very helpful in our future life.