Alternative methods of printing and finishimg in textiles

1. Enzymes used in finishing
and printing
Submitted by
Nithyasree P
22MT31

2. Bio polishing
• Biological finishing process
• Cellulase acts on the surface of the fabric
• To remove the protruding fibers and slubs
• To decrease the pilling tendency and fuzziness
• To improve fabric quality
• To produce smoothing effect and luster
• To give cleaner appearance and handle
• Free from surface hairiness and neps with better flexibility

3. Process
• Main objective: Elimination of micro fibrils of cotton through the
action of cellulase enzyme.
• The cellulase acts on the surface of the fabric.
• Then they easily break off from the surface, making it much smoother
than before.
• This smoothing effect has several benefits.
• Lesser predisposition towards forming pills.
• Cleaner surface structure containing less fuzz.
• Both on pieces as well as made-up apparel and before or after dyeing.

4. • Matzyme BIO-F is a cellulase enzyme, which eliminates the dead
cotton.
• Effective in de-pilling and surface hair removal
Scoured &
bleaching
sample
Bio-polishing Cold wash Drying
Dye addition Salt addition
Soda ash
addition
Hot wash
Soaping(at
boiling
temperature)
Hot wash &
Cold wash Drying

5. The main characteristics imparted to the fabric are
• Cleaner surface is obtained conferring a cooler feel
• Luster is obtained as a side effect
• Fabric obtains softer feel
• No tendency of the pill at the fabric surface
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES:
• Environmental friendly and are readily bio-degradable
• Produce permanent effects
• One bath application saves energy, time and cost
• Not effective as two bath
• Loss in weight
• Loss in strength

6. Before dyeing After dyeing
Depth of shade increases Depth of shade decreases
Wash fastness when the treatment is done before dyeing
is very poor
Wash fastness when the treatment is done after dyeing
is good
PROCESS PARAMETERS:
• Handle the process with carefully by controlling concentration, temperature,
pH, M:L & time

7. Stone washing
• Late 1970s
• Artificial ageing of denim garments; fashionable look
• Conventional method:
1. The blue jeans are washed with pumice stones to achieve a faded
look
2. Disadvantages includes machine damage, blocking of drainage
system, difficulty in removing residues and excessive damage to
garment hems and seams.

8. Bio- stone washing
• Introduced in 1980s
• To achieve a faded and abraded look
• Enzymes can be used alone or in combination with pumice stones
• Process: Cellulose loosens the indigo dye on the denim
• A small dose of enzyme can replace several kilograms of pumice stones
• Variety of finishes available. For example: To fade denim to a greater
degree without the risk of damaging the garment.
• Increased productivity
• Less damage and less pumice dust in the laundry environment
• Posses high abrasive activity, low back staining with low fabric strength
loss

9. Process
• Development of cellulose with the fungus called Humicola insolens.
• Neutral celluloses- Neutral pH environment
• Special feature:
1. To provide a stone washed look with minimal indigo re deposition.
2. Higher contrast between white and blue yarns.
3. Inside pockets as well as leather labels would not be stained with
indigo
4. Reaction time is slow
5. Requires a longer processing time

10. Discharge printing
• Chemical destruction of original dye in the printed areas.
• Agents: oxidizing or reducing agents, acids, alkalis and various salts.
• Important method: sulphoxylates formaldehyde and thiourea dioxide.
• Powerful discharging agent used commercially.
• Toxic and known as human carcinogenic associated with nasalsinus
cancer and nasopharyngeal cancer

12. Process
• It is carried out with phenol oxidizing enzyme.
• Example: Peroxidase with hydrogen peroxide.
• It is capable of oxidizing organic compounds containing phenolic
groups.
• Done by hand screen printing technique as required recipe
• Drying at ambient condition
• Then it can leave in an oven for different intervals of time and
different temperatures.
• Finally, washing was carried out

13. Dyeing
Enzymatic discharge printing
Incubation at 80 degree C
Washing

14. Conventional method Enzymatic method
Slight increase in strength loss No strength loss
Abrasion resistance is poor Abrasion resistance is good
Formaldehyde content is beyond acceptable limit Environmental friendly
Fastness and absorbency are good Fastness and absorbency are good

15. Dyeing process
• Dye materials were heated at 90-100 degree. C. Then filtered after
cooled, the extract is used for dyeing.
• Material liquor ratio- 1:50
• Dyeing time- 45 minutes, dye concentration- 2% and 5%
Dyeing without mordant Dyeing with mordant
No mordant Mordant- 2% Alum
Material liquor ratio- 1:50 Material liquor ratio- 1:50
Temperature 100 degree. C Temperature 100 degree. C
Time 45 minutes in open dye bath Time 45 minutes in open dye bath
Washed and finally dried Washed and finally dried