Pile & Carpets..pdf

Definition
• Pile: A surface effect on a fabric formed by
tufts or loops of yarn that stand up from the
body of the fabric.
• Pile fabric: A fabric with a pile surface, which
may be of cut and/or uncut loops.
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Types
Pile Fabric
Warp Pile
Fabric
Cut Pile Loop Pile
Weft Pile
Fabric
Cut pile
Loop
Pile

Raw Materials
Man Made Fiber and Natural Fibre both are used to
produce pile fabric as raw material:
• M.M.F:
1. Acrylic
2. Nylon
3. Polypropylene (Most commonly used)
4. Polyester
5. Viscose.
• Natural:
1. Jute
2. Cotton
3. Wool
4. Silk
5. Hemp.

Warp pile fabric
• If pile thread used as a warp thread then called
warp pile fabric. Terry towel is one of warp
pile class. It may be cut pile and loop pile.
Mainly both sided loop pile. It may one side
cut and one side loop.
• All carpets are warp pile fabric. Carpet may be
loop pile and cut pile. Mainly cut pile is used
to produce design. Carpet may produce
combination of cut pile and loop pile.

• Warp pile fabrics are two types:
• 1. Terry pile ( Two set warp and one set weft
used in towel)
• 2. Carpet

Images of Tibbetan Carpet

1. Wire loom principle:
• Features of wire loom carpet
1. It may be cut or loop pile
2. There are mainly heavy carpet for the contract market(shops,
offices, hotels etc)
3. It may be three or five color fabric.
4. Five color carpet is indicated a two frame carpet.
5. Pile height is determined by the wire dimension.
6. Ground weave
– Plain weave either with equal or unequal tension.
– combination of a 2 up 2 down rib with 1 up 1 down plain weave.
– Ground warp yarns are threaded in the back shaft.
– Shedding of ground warp is cam shedding.
– Shedding of pile warp is cam shedding, dobby shedding or jacquard
shedding.
– Pile yarns may be fed by separate beams or by creels when a large
number of colors are used.
– Ground warp is known as chain warp.

Wire Loom Principle
• A Wire-Loom is the type of Loom usually associated with Wilton carpet
weaving. The wire-loom is able to make Pile Fabrics with loop-pile, cut-
pile or combinations of both the above.
• In wire loom principle at the reed beat up following the wire insertion, a
loop is formed over the wire at the cloth fell. The wires stay in the carpet
over same cycles. After insertion of wires, the wire farthest away from the
shafts is withdrawn from the carpet. A construction of carpet by producing
this principle is given below:

Wire loom

Wire loom mechanism:
1. To produce the pile, a wire is inserted across the width of the warp into a
shed formed only by the pile ends.
2. Dimension of the wire determine the height of pile.
3. After the insertion of a number of picks & wires, the wire furthest away
from the cloth fall is withdrawn leaving the loops which were formed
over its shank.
4. The large no. of wires between the two points is necessary mainly to
prevent the loops being pulled back by the tension on the pile yarn.
5. The pile may be looped, if plain wires are used or cut if the wire has cut
blade at its tip end.
6. The wire is inserted into a special high shed formed by the pile yarns &
simultaneously the shuttle inserts the weft into a low shed formed by the
ground yarn.
7. In dobby or jacquard shedding, the high shed for wire insertion is
obtained by special lifting arrangements. In cam shedding, it can be
achieved either by the use of tappet with a stroke bigger than that of the
ground warp tappets or by suitable leverage connections to the heald shaft
which controls the pile warp.

Wire loom mechanism:
8. The circular cross-section wire is only suitable for the production of short
pile; long pile is produced on wires with a rectangular cross-section.
9. The depth of the wires differs from 1.5-25 mm.
10. The mechanism requires at the side of the loom a space which is at least
equal to the width of the woven cloth.
11. In winding the cloth on to the cloth roller the underside is brought in
contact with the friction roller.

Types of wire used in wire loom
• There are two types of wire used in the wire
loom. They are:
1. Plain wire or looping wire: There is no knife
at any end.
2. Cutting wire: These wires have a knife at the
top, when the wire withdrawn from the fabric,
the loop is cut in a cut pile.

Types of wire loom principle:
• This principle is of two types. They are:
a. Brussels carpet
Loop pile fabric with 2 shot or 2 picks wire carpet structure i.e 2
picks to 1 wire using plain weave, there coarser material is
used & the piles are less deep. Coarser yarns are used in this
system. These are normally loop pile.
b. Wilton carpet
Cut pile fabrics with 3 shot to 1 wire being cutting wire. The
pile height depends on wire dimension. Here, finer material is used &
the structure is deep. The fabric handle is lighten, finer, softer
& more flexible then bussels carpet. These are normally cut
pile.

Brussels & Wilton carpet

Advantages & Disadvantages of wire loom:
• Advantages:
– Cut and loop pile carpet is possible. If plain or looping wire is
used then produce loop pile and if cutting wire having a knife at
the top is used then produce cut pile.
– No mirror image effect due to face to face weaving and for using
two or three color.
– Pile height is easily adjustable because pile height is determined
by the wire dimension.
• Disadvantages :
– Lower production due to wire insertion
– Over heating may be occurred due to friction
– Extra space required for wire

2. Face to face weaving:
• Features:
• A carpet produced on the face to face principle is formed by cutting
through a double fabric.
• Pile yarns are perpendicular between two ground fabrics
• The difference between the bottom and top fabrics determined the pile
height. The pile height is changed by adjusting this distance.
• The pile yarns are cut through by means of a transversely reciprocating
knife, thus forming two fabrics with facing piles.
• Once cut through the carpet don’t greatly differ from carpets produced with
the aid of wires from a weave technical point of view.
• The looms are less wide then wire looms since there is no system for wire
insertion.
• The dead pile yarns can be woven in both fabrics
• High productivity for carpet & warp velvet weaving
• Always cut pile no loop pile is possible.

Principles of face to face weaving:
There are two principles of face to face weaving.
They are:
• Single shuttle principle
• Double shuttle principle

Single shuttle principle
• Single shuttle principle uses only one mechanism
for the weft insertion on the loom. Here only one
shed is formed, so a loop is formed on every pick.

Double shuttle principle
Here two sheds are formed in the formation of fabrics & there are two
mechanisms for the weft insertion. So that two weft picks are
inserted. Simultaneously one for the top & one for the bottom
fabrics. Here also, a loop is formed for every 2 picks.
It is also possible to work with exclusion of weft on the double shuttle
technique. A weft yarn is inserted alternately in the top & bottom
fabrics.

Face to face pile fabric

Commonly used weave for face to face weaving:

Hop sack weave/Loose weave

Ground weave
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25

• Advantages of face to face weaving
1. No supplementary treatment is needed to
remove the wire.
2. Top & bottom carpets are equal in weight.
3. The carpet is thicken & comfortable.
4. Greater dimensional stability.
• Disadvantages of face to face weaving
1. More expensive jacquard m/c is required.
2. More stress for shedding.
3. Back side appearance is not nice.

Differences between wire principle and face to face principle
WIRE LOOM PRINCIPLE FACE TO FACE PRINCIPLE
Ø In wire loom principle pile is formed
by the insertion of wire.
Ø In this principle carpet is formed by
cutting through a double fabric.
Ø The pile height is determined by the
wire dimension.
Ø Pile height is determined by the
distance between top & bottom fabrics.
Ø It may be cut or loop pile. Ø Always cut pile no loop pile is possible.
Ø There is mainly heavy carpet for the
contract marker (Shops, offices, hostels
etc.)
Ø There are mainly carpet & warp velvet.
Ø The looms are very wide. Ø The looms are less wide than wire loom
since there is no system for wire
insertion.
Ø The piles are cut by the wire which has
a knife at the top.
Ø The piles are cut by means of a
traversely reciprocating knife.

Video of Axminster Carpet

Axminster
Weaving
In the making of Axminster, tufts of yarn that cut are inserted by means of grippers. Each tuft
has to be inserted along the width of the carpet, from the vertical yarn carrier the appropriate
colored end of yarn is gripped by a metal gripper which rises from the bed of the loom. To cut
the tufts to the correct length a knife blade slices the tuft, returning to the bed of the loom the
gripper places the tuft in the correct position; the weft shots in the backing yarns bind it into
place.
A beater bar is used to push every row of tufts and weft shots tightly together to form the carpet.
The rows or “beatup” as they are known can vary from as low as 5 to 14 rows per inch, if
required they can be higher. Dependent on the design different coloured ends of yarn can be
selected from the yarn carrier; this is raised or lowered by means of a punched card mechanism
or jacquard. Using this weaving method many different colours can be used. The more modern
looms have electronic punched card mechanisms enabling the manufacturers to produce very
complicated designs with an almost infinite pattern repeats.
It`s worth noting that Axminster carpets are only made from a blend of wool & man made yarns
usually 80% wool & 20% man made yarns. Monday, March 6, 2023
29

Axminster weaving Technique
• An Axminster carpet is a single cloth woven
carpet whose pile yarns are laid in the fabric
between the double weft with a predetermined
length. Here no warp beam is used for pile yarn
creel used instead of beam.
There are three types of Axminster weaving. They
are:
– Gripper Axminster
– Spool Axminster
– Spool gripper Axminster

Gripper Axminster weaving:
• In the gripper system, the dyed pile thread being wound separately
upon bobbins which are placed in creel frames behind the loom.
From the bobbins the threads pass between horizontal guide bars &
through holes in a guide board to slots in yarn carriers. As many
yarns are provided, as there are tufts of pile formed in a line across
the width that is one of which longitudinal line of pile & to each
split of the reed.
• The grippers move to their top & bottom position. In their upward
movements the grippers are open and on reaching in top position,
the tufts are inserted just into the grooves of the carriers & close on
the projecting ends of the pile threads. Then a sufficient length of
thread is formed in front of the carriers to give required height of
pile either by moving the grippers. The necessary distance away
from the carriers or by similarly withdrawing the fabric in which the
carriers are mounted from the points of the grippers. The thread is
then cut by a knife which traverses the comb to the length.

Gripper Action

Color Selection

Advantages of Gripper Axminster weaving:
• It saves the raw material
• Pile length let same by using different yarn
• Density of pile will keep same by using coarse
yarn.
Disadvantages:
• The only disadvantage is the productivity is
loss.

Tufted carpet
• Tufting consists in piecing
yarns through a primary
support fabric by means of
needles in such a way that
piles (Cut & loop) are
formed on the support
fabric. After further
treatment for example,
anchoring the pile by means
of a pre coat & applying a
secondary backing a
complete finished tufted
carpet is obtained.

Tufted carpet

Basic elements – of tufted carpet:
1. Pile yarn: Man made fibre or wool is used. Polypropylene is used
for its cheapest value.
Properties:
– Well wear resistance.
– Good dyeing property.
– Easy clean.
– Uniform cross section.
– Resistance to different micro surgery organism & insects.
– Large knot must be avoided.
2. Primary backing: Man made fibre such as polypropylene, polyester
and of natural fibre jute is used.
3. Adhesive or pre coat: Natural, synthetic latex, synthetic rubber
coating is used.
4. Secondary support: Man made fibre, natural or CBC i.e. carpet
backing cloth which is made from jute is used widely.

The production process
Carpet factories are vast spaces full of large
machinery. The loop carpet machine can be
4m or 5m wide and is fed with creels
(individual cones) or beams of yarn. These are
plugged into a position with the yarn passing
through an individual piping system to the
needle point.
The needle holding the yarn punches down
through the backing fabric and, as it rises from
its lowest position, the yarn is caught by a
hook or looper below the cloth and held to
form a loop. As the needle comes down for the
second time, the hook moves backwards and
the yarn loop is released. At the same time, the
tufted fabric moves forward, helping to clear
the loop from the hook. The needle descends
again, a new loop is now made and the cycle is
repeated.
The construction of a cut pile is very similar to
loop pile with the addition of a knife at each
needle to cut the loop, creating open tufts of
yarn.

The production process
The hook faces in the opposite direction to the
movement of the tufted fabric and an alloy steel
blade, five to six inches long, cuts the yarn at the
side of the hook in a scissor-like fashion. As the
hook enters the new loop, the previous loop will
slide along the length as a shared result of the
movement of the hook and the forward movement of
the fabric. As a new loop has started, the hook
moves backwards to its home position and the knife
blade moves up simultaneously to press against the
hook and cut the loop.
Finishing touches
Whether loop or cut pile, the carpet is taken from the
machinery to the backing plant, which uses high
quality natural jute backing. The process is
extremely sophisticated as it is easy to distort the
design of the loop by bowing as it passes through
the backing plant.
After backing, the carpet goes through a seven point
quality control inspection, which includes
individuals checking the carpet by hand and
correcting any slight flaws, to ensure it is delivered
to the customer in a perfect condition.

Pile height depends on:
• Feeding of pile yarn.
• Depth of needle.
• Distance between loop & primary support.
• Gauge: 1/10” for finer, 1/8-5/32” for coarser.
1/10” & 1/8” gauge are most widely used.
• Pile height: 3-40mm

Factors to be considered for selecting carpet pile yarn
1. Having strength at dry and wet condition both.
2. Moisture Regain should be high for not to produce static electricity when
use.
3. Good dye affinity.
4. Good resiliency.
5. Whiteness.
6. Warmth handling.
7. Flame resistance.
8. Soiling resistance.
9. Unaffected by dry cleaning solvent.
10. Unaffected due to heat & light.
11. Not affected by pest & micro organism.
12. Specific gravity should be preferatively low.
13. Not easily wet and should have easy to dry.
14. Easy to clean.
15. Fibre in the yarn not to be so straight and smooth for not producing
slippery surface.

Ornamentation of continuous or all over warp pile fabrics:
• Ornamentation of all over warp pile fabrics may done by the following stages:
During Manufacturing:
1. Stripe effect: By using differently colored pile threads.
2. Horizontal bar effects: Which add considerable interest to the appearance of the
cloth can be obtained by employing both cutting and looping wires which may be
arranged in different sequences such as 8 to 10 cutting or looping wires.
3. Stepped or waves
4. Other modification may include a combination of small dia looping wires with
fall cutting wires and so on.
• During finishing
• By pressing heated embossing roller on the fabric. Thermo plastic fibre is used for
embossing design.
Or

Finishing Treatment on carpet
The following treatments are performed on carpet-
1. Tip shearing: It is one type of brushing and it is done for
raising. The pile and it cuts the irregular pile. By this
operation a smooth appearance will be obtained.
2. Brushing: In order to raise the pile, brushing is performed.
To increase the softness brushing is done.
3. Inspection table: In this testing any visual fault of carpet is
find out and removed. This fault is pile height carpet
thickness etc. by taking necessary steps.

Terry fabric
• Terry fabric (Toweling):
• A terry towel is described as a textile product which is made
with loop pile on one or both sides generally covering the
entire surface or forming strips, checks, or other patterns
(with end hems or fringes and side hems or selvages)
• Terry fabrics belong to the group of pile fabrics. The
thickness of terry fabric is higher than with that fabric. They
also have a higher specific surface which increases
absorbency. This makes this type of fabric is really suited
for towels, bathmats. Moreover, bathrobes are warm clothes
since terry fabrics contain a lot of air. Terry fabrics are easy
in maintenance. They need no ironing.

Classification of terry towel:
1. Terry with ordered standing loop piles
(Regular loop pile) – Unsized dyed warp yarn
is used for pile
2. Terry with irregular loop piles – Raw yarn,
dyed single yarn, sized yarn, after treatment
required.
3. Terry with cut piles – Cotton ring yarn, dyed
& sized yarn is used.

Weave:
Two types of terry are available:
• 3 Pick terry: Ground warp 2/1 rib, pile2/1 or 2/1 twill.
• 4 Pick terry: Mat/ Basket weave for ground 1/3 or 3/1
for pile.
For both types of terry weave the following rules are
applied:
• The loop warp yarn always binding around the 2nd weft
after the full reed beat up.
• There must be a shed crossing of the ground warp yarn
after the full reed beat up in order to avoid slippage
back of the weft yarns. For example: 2/1

1. Fibre: For water absorbency Cotton, Polyester Cotton
blended fibres are used
2. Yarn: If yarn is used as raw material it is low twisted
yarn.
3. Fabric construction: Loose woven structure. It
depends on pile height.
4. Yarn used in weft and warp:
– Weft: Mainly Ring & Rotor yarn having low twist and
hairy yarns are used to reduce slippage.
– Warp: As ground warp highly twisted Ring & Rotor yarn
are used.
– Pile: For pile warp Ring yarn is mainly used but Rotor is
also used.
5. Shedding used: Normally cam shedding is used in
Terry but for decorative weaving cross border dobby
and jacquard shedding are used.

• Yarn used:
• Ground warp: Normally cotton.
• Weft: Normally cotton.
• Pile yarn: Always cotton.

Construction:
• Terry towels are woven as 2, 3, 4, 5 or more pick terry
weaves. The most common type is 3-pick terry
toweling. The cross section of a toweling through the
Warps are divided into two systems as shown in Figure,
pile warps and ground warps, whereas wefts consist of
only one system. In basic Turkish Toweling, front side
and back side pile warps and 1st and 2nd ground warp
ends form a 2/1 rib weave with each other. The rib
weaves which is formed by the pile warps is one pick
ahead of the rib weave which is formed by ground warp
ends. Warps are ordered throughout the fabric width 1:1
or 2:2 piles and ground warps. In 1:1 warp order each
ground warp end is followed by a pile warp end while
in 2:2 warp order each two ground warp ends are
followed by two pile warp ends. In Figures 3a and 3b,
the weave notation of 3 weft pile basic Turkish
toweling is given in 1:1 and 2:2 warp orders

Principle of Terry fabric production
• The reed is mounted in a special frame. This frame can be brought
in to motion mechanically or electrically. The loom drive is achieved
by means of conjugated cams. The cam follower system can freely
rotate around the sley shaft.
• The transmission mechanism from the cams to the reed has a shaft
mechanism that can be buckled via a cam. A short reed beat up
given in buckled position of this shaft mechanism. If the shaft
mechanism is not buckled weft yarns are beaten up to the cloth fell.
• The breast beam & temples are moveable; the fabric is pull forward
at the particular beat up. So that the wefts are not beaten up to the
cloth fell. Controlling the movement of the breast beam is done by
means of cam. When switching from 3 to 4 pick terry, the cam has
to be changed. Disengaging the clutch will stop the breast beam
movement; this means that wefts will be beaten up to the cloth fell.
In this way borders without pile are woven across the full fabric.

Loop formation technique of Terry pile fabric by special beat up
mechanism
• The variable beat up motions are an essential part of the terry pile weaving
and they fall in to two main categories
• To create a gap between the cloth fell and the first two picks of a pile
forming a group of picks termed ‘loose picks” and the picks beaten up fully
which are known as ‘fast picks’
• The two reed positions are shown at the figure a and b respectively
• To create the gap on the loose picks the cloth itself is drawn away from the
advancing reed so that the two loose picks can not reach the normal cloth
fell position. On the third pick the cloth is brought forward again so that the
three picks of a group join together with the previously woven cloth at the
normal cloth fell point.
• All the above motions must be capable of precise adjustment to vary the
size of the gap in order to produce shorter or longer loop it pile. In a 3 pick
structure two loose picks are followed by one fast one in a 4 pick terry the
order of operation are two loose, two fast and so on.
• When pile less headings are produced the loose pick action is necessary
and must be disengaged.

Physical Properties of a Towel
• Absorbency:
High absorbency can be achieved in a towel by increasing the surface area with
pile yarns and using cotton yarns with twists lower than the ground warps.
Heat Insulation:
Pile yarns make the fabric thicker and give the fabric a high level of heat
insulation. Moreover cotton fibers which are used in towels are naturally
convoluted and bulked. This serves to trap air within the fabric structure. The air
contained between fibers and within them provides thermal insulation.
Crease Resistance:
Pile yarns give the fabric a third dimension which makes the fabric nearly
uncreasable.
Dullness:
The pile loops form a very rough textured surface, thus giving the fabric a dull
appearance. This situation is true for only un-sheared toweling. Velour toweling
has an appearance even brighter than that of a traditional fabric. The cut pile
forms a very smooth surface and reflects light evenly.

Weft pile fabric
• In pile fabrics, a proportion of the threads, either warp or weft, are made to project
at right angles from a foundation texture and form a pile on the surface.
• The projecting threads may be cut or uncut thus resulting in tufted or looped pile.
• Weft pile fabrics are composed of one series of warp threads and two series of
weft threads, the ground and the pile.
• The pile weft is cut in a separate operation after weaving resulting in a surface
consisting of short and very dense tufts.
• In weft pile structures, also known as velveteen is very high density of picks,
which may reach to 200 picks per centimeters.
• The pile effect in the velveteen is not produced during weaving but is a result of a
cutting operation during cloth finishing.
• The structure is so arranged that the surface of the cloth is covered by weft floats.
• These floats are then severed by knife action and form a cut pile surface.
• The ground cloth, usually plain or twill is unaffected by the knife action and forms
a solid base from which the cut tufts project and in which they are anchored.

Velveteen
• If the pile roots are dispersed, the fabric would be
covered by an evenness piles. Those fabrics are
called velveteen. Velveteen are
sometimes raising finished instead of cutting.
• Velveteen is mostly made from cotton and the weft
pile loops are cut short. It is not so expensive as
good velvets, but quality velveteen can be quite
luxurious and even hardwearing. After weaving
and brushing and cropping dye is applied by
brushes which all help add the lusture.
• Velveteen has similar effect to velvet in
appearance and can make the wearer look slimmer
than when wearing velvet. However velvet
usually looks much more expensive. Velveteen is
much easier to sew. Velveteen is also easy to
launder and can be washed at home and given a
short spin. It dries very well in front of a gas fire
or radiator which can bring up the pile.

Velvet
• Velvet has a very close and dense
pile. There are several methods of
weaving it, but for centuries it has
often been woven as a double
cloth. In this method the warp yarns
are specially woven as shown in the
picture below. The warp loops are
formed over wire rods. Next the
loops are cut during the weaving
process. The double cloth is then
separated and processes begin which
help the bloom of the velvet to
develop.

Structurally velveteen are of four types:
a. All over or plain velveteen in which the
surface is uniformly covered by the pile.
b. Weft Plushes: Similar to above but arranged
to produce much longer floats.
c. Corded velveteens: Also known
as Corduroys and fustions in which the pile
runs in orderly vertical cords of varying width.
d. Figured Velveteens: in which pile figure is
produced on base ground.

All Over or Plain Velveteens
• The Foundation Weave is
plain
• eg. Weft- 2 pile 1 ground
Ground Weave- Plain
Pile Weave- Plain
• a. Insert Plain weave on
ground ends and ground picks
b. Insert pile plain weave on
alternate ends.

Twill Back Velveteens
• Steps: 1. Insert ground
weave 2/1 on ground
picks
2. Insert pile weave 1/2 on
alternate ground ends.

The purpose of binding in the pile picks only at alternate ends is
to enable the cutting to be more easily accomplished.

Corduroy
• Corduroys posses soft handle,
clear stripes, lofty and full pile,
good strength, and aesthetic
properties, so they are widely used
for apparel fabrics. They are
favorite by man, woman, old and
children.
• This material is used to produce
casual wear such as trousers,
jeans, caps and jackets.

The principles of construction of corduroy fabric.
• The weave contains two pile picks a, b,
and two ground picks 1, 2. The ground
picks 1, 2 interlace with warp forming the
ground weave. Arrangement of ground
pick and pile pick is 1:2. The pile pick
floats over five warp threads which are
convenient for cutting process. The pile
picks interlace with the warp threads 5, 6
for binding the piles. The intersections are
called pile roots.
• After weaving, the pile weft was cut by a
special constructed knives between the
warp thread 2 and 3. Then, brushing it, the
piles will be upright, forming a full pile,
bulky band corduroy.

The principles of the weft pile cutting
• The circular knife are placed on a mandrill A indicated by the arrow.
• As the knives revolve, fabric advances toward in the direction indicated by an
arrow F.
• A guide wire E is inserted in the fabric under the long weft floats. The guide wires
have these functions ① guiding the weft floats forming a loop-like: “race” to the
knives, and tautening them as they are cut, and ②keeping the knives in the centre
of each “race”. As the uncut fabric approaches the knives, guide wires are
conveyed along by it , and consequently require to be pushed forward again
intermittently. This is accomplished by a series of spirally arranged rotary cams.

Image of weft pile fabric
Velveteen
Codoroy
Monday, March 6, 2023
68

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