Manufacturing Technology and denim development

1. GOPALAKRISHNAN .DGOPALAKRISHNAN .D
Manufacturing Technology and
recent developments in
DENIMDENIM
Aesthetic & FunctionalAesthetic & Functional

2. DenimDenim
 Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in
which the weft passes under two or more
warp threads.
 Denim has been in American usage since
the late eighteenth century.
 Denim was traditionally colored blue with
indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though
"jean" then denoted a different, lighter
cotton textile.

3. Process Flow for Warp Yarn inProcess Flow for Warp Yarn in
Denim ManufacturingDenim Manufacturing

4. Spinning
↓
Bale Warping
↓
Rope Dyeing
↓
Long Chain Beaming
↓
Sizing
↓
Weaving
↓
Finishing
↓
Inspection & Folding
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch

5. DEVELOPMENTS IN
YARNS

6. Structured Denim YarnsStructured Denim Yarns
 Modern ring-spinning frames and open-end
machines
 Predetermined yarn effects
 Slubs (thick places) with different lengths,
different spacing between slubs, or variations in
the yarn count
 OE yarns - more ring-spun like appearance
 Ring-spun yarns - increased rough or “antiqued”
quality.

7. Elastic Denim YarnsElastic Denim Yarns
 Drafted cotton fibers twist around the
spandex core to produce an elastic ring-
spun type yarn.
 Also open-end and air-jet spinning adapted
to produce core-spun yarns.
 Similar to the ring core-spun yarns.
 Open-end and air-jet core-spun yarns have
fewer knots and splices as compared to
ring core-spun yarns.

8. Fancy yarns for denimFancy yarns for denim

9. Yarn Spinning SystemsYarn Spinning Systems
 “ring/ring, open end /open end (OE/OE),
and ring/OE,”
 For example, ring/OE indicates a ring-spun
warp yarn and an open-end filling yarn.
 Weaving a combination of ring-spun and
open-end yarns can help to reduce fabric
costs while still maintaining some
favorable ring-spun fabric characteristics.

10. Common Yarn Sizes for DenimCommon Yarn Sizes for Denim
 Warp yarns for bottom weight jeans
typically range in size from Ne 4.0 to Ne
12.5/1.
 Finer yarns are used for lighter weight
chambray shirting fabrics and lighter
weight jeans, vests, dresses, and skirts.
 These yarns may range in count from Ne
12.5 to Ne 30.0.

11. DEVELOPMENTS IN
DENIM
WEAVING

12. Denim Constructions, Weaves,Denim Constructions, Weaves,
and Weightsand Weights
 The weight is influenced by the size of the
yarn used, the fabric weave design, and the
fabric tightness.
 Classical construction of denim is 60-64
EPI and 38-42 PPI.
 Denim “look-a-likes” may vary in
construction from 52 to 70 EPI and from
36 to 52 PPI.

13.  As a rule, denim is woven as 3/1 twill, 2/1
twill, 3/1 broken twill, or 2/2 broken twill.
 The weights of these finished fabrics can
vary between 3.5 and 16.5 ounces per
square yard.
 Final garment application will be:
 3.5-8.0 ounces per square yard – blouses,
tops, shirts, and top of bed fabrics
 8.0-16.5 ounces per square yard – trousers,
jeans, jackets, and upholstery

14. Diagram of 3/1 Right andDiagram of 3/1 Right and
Left Hand TwillsLeft Hand Twills

15. Non-conventional DenimNon-conventional Denim
Fabric ConstructionsFabric Constructions
 Indigo-dyed yarns have been woven in
plain weaves known as chambray, oxfords,
baskets, herringbones, bed ford cords, and
combinations of 3/1 and 1/3 twills.
 Jacquard designs and dobby weaves have
also been incorporated into denim designs
to produce new looks and textures.

16. Air jet LoomsAir jet Looms
 These types of looms adopt the latest
development in Weaving Technology
where weft insertion is done with the help
of compressed air.
 A very high weft insertion rate up to 1800
metre per minute is achieved.
 Compared to rapier and projectile looms,
these looms are less versatile but are
economical and are used in mass textile
production unit like denim.

17. DEVELOPMENTS IN
DYEING

18. Rope Dyeing -Rope Dyeing - Indigo Dye Range

19. Sheet Dyeing ProcessSheet Dyeing Process
yarn sheet is washed with caustic and washing soda
squeezing the excess water
pass through Dyeing Troughs one time for oxidation
development of dye on yarn.
washed with fresh water for two-three times
squeezed before allowing it to pass through six drying cylinders
dyed yarn enters the starching device and sizing is done
the sized warp beam goes for weaving
brushing, singeing, washing, impregnation for dressing and drying

20. Slasher Indigo Dye RangeSlasher Indigo Dye Range

21. DEVELOPMENTS IN
DENIM
WASHING

22. Denim WashingDenim Washing
 Denim washing is the aesthetic finish
given to the denim fabric to enhance the
appeal and to provide strength.
 Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim,
is a denim fabric that is not washed after
being dyed during its production.

23. Types of Denim WashingTypes of Denim Washing
Denim washing are two types. These are
1. Mechanical washes
 Stone wash
 Micro sanding
2. Chemical washes
 Denim bleaching
 Enzyme wash
 Acid wash

24. Important Steps in theImportant Steps in the
Process of Denim WashingProcess of Denim Washing
Pre treatment (Desizing, Rinsing, Scouring)
Enzyme or Stone wash
Clean up to adjust the desire effect
Bleaching
Tinting / Dyeing
Sand blasting
Softening

25. Enzyme Wash ProcessEnzyme Wash Process
First Step: Desizing
 Lot weight (80 pes) ............ 60 kg denim long pant.
 Add water @ L: R = 1: 9.............. 540 Litre
 Machine Running.
 Temperature.......................... 60°c.
 Add Desizing agent @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 324 gm.
 Add Detergent @ 0.8 gm / litre.................... 432 gm.
 Time................................ 20 mins.
 Drop the liquor.
 Wash 1 time by cold water.

26. Second Step: Enzyme
 Add water @ L: R = 1: 8.............. 450 Litre
 Temperature.......................... 45°c.
 Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ................ 270 gm.
 Add Anti Back staining @ 0.6 gm / litre .... 270 gm.
 Add Acid Enzyme @ 2.00 gm / litre ............ 900 gm.
 Time....(Depend upon the shade)...........40---60 mts.
 Increase temperature to 90°c and run 1 minute (enzyme
killing).
 Drain the bath.
 Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

27. Third Step: Bleaching
 Add water @ L : R = 1 : 7 .............. 420 Litre
 Temperature.......................... 50° to 60°C.
 Add chlorine bleach @ 20 gm / litre ......... 8400 gm.
 Add sodium bi carbonate @ 4 gm / litre ............ 1680 gm.
 Time (Depend upon the shade)............................. 12 to 20 mins.
 Drop the liquor.
 Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.
Fourth Step: Detergent
 Add water @ L : R = 1 : 10 ........................... 600 Liter
 Temperature.................................................... 50°C.
 Add sodium hypo sulphite @ 2 gm / litre.....1200 gm.
 Add detergent @ 0.5 gm / litre ...................... 300 gm.
 Time................................ 10 to 15 mins.
 Drop the liquor.
 Rinse Twice, each 3 minutes.

28. Fifth Step: Softening
 Add water @ L: R = 1 : 8 .............. 450 Litres.
 Add Acetic Acid @ 0.6 gm / litre ............ 270 gm.
 Cationic Softner @ 1 gm / litre.............. 450 gm.
 Temperature.......................... Cold.
 Time................................ 15 to 20 mins.
 Drain the bath.
 Then unload the garments on trolley.
Sixth Step: Hydro extractor Machine
After unloading garments from the washing machine then they are sent
to hydron extractor to remove excess water from the washed
garments.
Seven Step: Drying Machine
 Load 60 kg garments to gas dryer.
 Temperature set -75°c to 85°c.
 Run about 40 mins.
 After then run 10 mins in cold dryer.

29. Ice washingIce washing
Soak stones in solutions of (conc 1.5% to 5%)potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours
Stones should be drained of excess liquor
Place stones and garments in machine
Tumble for 10-30 minutes
Water and add 1-5 g/l of the reducing agents. Heat to 50◦C and run for 20 minutes
Rinse well
Apply softener
Tumble dry / Press

30. In some cases,
 the stones can be reused for another load
before re-soaking, depending upon their
porosity.
 It is advantageous to transfer the garments to
another machine for washing, minimizing
the number of machines used for the
corrosive process of ice washing.

31. Different types of DryDifferent types of Dry
process for Denim Washprocess for Denim Wash
Whiskering
The idea of whiskers is taken from the
worn out lines and impression patterns
generated by natural wearing on hips and
front thigh area.
On old jeans, a number of patterns can be
finding consequential to fabric, body shape
of user or sitting posture.
It is also known as Cat's Whisker.

33. WhiskeringWhiskering

34.  Mostly rubber balloons are available with
different pattern designs.
 Garments are mounted on balloons and
filled with air to get impressions of
whiskers.
 Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully
with sand paper on engraved pattern lines.
 Patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and
electric wires or rubber cords and pasted
on balloons for pattern lines.
 Engraved patterns on thick board like hard
rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers
impression making.

35. Sand Blasting
 Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing
off the garment by blowing high-speed air
mixed with very fine particles of sand.
 This is a very successful and most widely
used process for fashion articles.
 When the surface area of the garment is
blasted, white cotton appears beneath the
blasted area and the effect appearing is
very similar to the worn out jeans.

36. Sand BlastingSand Blasting

38. Potassium permanganatePotassium permanganate
spray (P.P Spray)spray (P.P Spray)
 Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans
to take a bright effect on sand blast area.
 One important thing about potassium
permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting
process to increase the effect of sand blast.
 Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on
blasted area of jeans garment with the help of
normal spray gun.
 This potassium permanganate spray appears pink
on garment when fresh and turns to muddy
brown on drying.

40. Destroyed DenimDestroyed Denim
One of the most popular distressing effects
currently , ‘Destruction’ is an art which
make denim look unique & used.
To make destruction pen type of stone
tools being used in mid of wash process to
apply on desired area.
It can also be achieved by cutting it thru
knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn
as is to show white thread.

41. Different types of machine used for
destroy the garments. Such as-
 Grinding Machine.
 Emery Cloth.
 Hacksaw Blade.
 Needle.
 Knife etc.

42.  make holes in jeans by overdoing different
methods.
 The trick is to make the holes look natural.
Grind away at the fabric slowly.
 Try not to localize the worn area, spread it
with diminishing wear the further we get
from the intended hole.

43. ConclusionConclusion
 The scope of denim process is very broad.
 Only innovative products will be able to open up new
markets and new horizons for denim industry.
 To achieve this it is essential to invest in further research
and development.
 Globalization has opened the door to competition at the
highest level.
 Every industry should now produce products that are best
in terms of quality and price.
 Customers today have a wide range of choices and the
one who produces the best quality at a high competitive
price will survive and prosper.

44. Thank youThank you
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