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Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 2015
THE URBAN FOOD ISSUE
*Cockney rhyming slang for ‘newspaper’
Fish Island smoked salmon – Hackney salad – London gin
Shoreditch chocolate – Handmade soda – Foraging – Tottenham cheese
Established in 1990, Currell is a full service
property agency with offices across London.
Call us now for a free valuation.
currell.com
Currell Islington
321 Upper Street
Islington, N1 2XQ
020 7226 4200
islington@currell.com
Currell Battersea
205 Lavender Hill,
Battersea, SW11 5TB
020 3668 1000
battersea@currell.com
Currell Victoria Park
81 Lauriston Park
Victoria Park, E9 7HJ
020 3222 5555
victoriapark@currell.com
Currell Clerkenwell
122/124 St John Street
Clerkenwell, EC1V 4JS
020 7253 2533
clerkenwell@currell.com
Currell Hackney
305 Kingsland Road
Hackney, E8 4EG
020 7241 4111
hackney@currell.com
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 20153
FEAST YOUR
EYES ON THIS
EDITED AND WRITTEN BY: Simon Manuel and Gina Wasikowski
DESIGNED BY: Sally Grondowski
CONTRIBUTORS: Alice Currell and Imogen Williams
CONTENTS
8-13
COVER STORY
London’s urban food
producers on a mission
to improve what we eat
4-7
OUT AND ABOUT
The best of what’s on in
and around north and east
London this autumn
14-15
ARTs AND CULTURE
Meet one of The Big
House’s success stories,
Tiernie Thompson
20-23
property and interiors
A deceptive house and
this season’s trends
in lighting for your home
28-33
FOOD AND DRINK
Fish Island smoked salmon and
the only gin distillery
in the City of London
34-38
LIFESTYLE
Mastering butchery, a fairer
way to shop and foraging
for your dinner
Cover image:
PHOTOGRAPHY: Amy Currell, amycurrell.com
SET DESIGN: Aliki Kirmitsi, alikikirmitsi.com
Printed in the UK by Mortons, mortons.co.uk
Published by Currell, currell.com
Food is big business in London and its reputation
worldwide as a foodie mecca is on the rise. But as
well as the high-profile pop-ups and the Michelin-starred
restaurants, the capital also has a wealth of less-heralded
food and drinks producers. These skilled, committed
Londoners are bringing fantastic locally grown and crafted
food to our markets, shops, restaurants and bars.
For Issue 02 of The Linen Draper, we hunted down some
of the best local producers on our doorstep in north and east
London. Who would have thought that Fish Island would be
home to one of the oldest and best smoked salmon producers
in the UK (p28–29) or that a gin distillery sits in the heart of
the City of London (p30)? Stranger still, who knew there was
such a thing as Hackney salad (p13), or that you can forage
for your dinner by the river Lea (p38)?
We also try our hand at butchery (p36–37), meet the
Haggerston Food Assembly (p34–35) and round up the best
things to do this autumn.
You can see some of the food that is mentioned in the
following pages beautifully portrayed on our front cover,
and in our cover story (p8–13), by talented food stylist Aliki
Kirmitsi and photographer Amy Currell.
We would love to hear your feedback on our second issue,
so please feel free to email us at thelinendraper@currell.com.
Gina Wasikowski, Head of Marketing, Currell
4 The Linen Draper
out and about
build a bike
If you fancy building a bike that is
guaranteed to turn heads, we’ve got just
the place for you. The Bamboo Bicycle
Club near Hackney Wick runs weekend
workshops that help cycle enthusiasts
build their own custom bicycles – out of
bamboo. Bamboo is an excellent material
for making bicycles as it absorbs vibration
and offers a smooth ride even over
London’s crumbling streets. The bikes are
also light, strong and long-lasting. The
workshop provides you with all the tools
and materials you need to construct a
frame tailored to your own unique vision.
Creations can range from tandems to road
bikes, electrics to hybrids, and more. The
Bamboo Bicycle Club is a must for lovers
of life on two wheels – and bamboo.
Workshops, 19–20 September & 3–4 October
bamboobicycleclub.org
GO POTTY FOR POTTERY
One of the best local museums in London, the Geffrye Museum, will once
again play host to ‘Ceramics in the City’ during London Design Week.
The event sees 50 potters, both well-known and rising talents, from around
the UK display their creative wares. The range of pottery on show, from
classic homeware to delicate porcelain and more quirky one off pieces, will
delight pottery enthusiasts as well as show those less in the know what it’s all
about. More importantly, much of what is on display is affordable, with
prices starting from just £10.
25–27 September
geffrye-museum.org.uk
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 20155
autumn in the city
off the beaten track
If you’re looking for something different to do this weekend,
Alternative London could be the answer. Specialising in
themed tours around east London, the Alternative London
Walking Tour is perfect for Londoners new and old wanting
to discover more about the capital’s coolest destination.
Designed to educate people in the history of the area and
what the future may hold, the tour also takes in some of the
best street art that the city has to offer. Tours take around two
hours, starting from Spitalfields Market. The best part? You
pay as much as you want, making it affordable for everyone.
Tableware by Elliott Denny (left) and Deep Pink on
Carved White Bone China by Penny Fowler (above)
6 The Linen Draper
out and about
Following a hugely successful sell-out
run in January, BalletBoyz return to
Sadler’s Wells in October with Young
Men, a moving portrayal of love, loss
and survival set against the backdrop
of war. Drawing inspiration from
images of conflict through the ages, the
production is a compelling hybrid of
dance, theatre and screen performance.
Produced by BalletBoyz’s artistic
directors Michael Nunn and William
Trevitt, the show is given an extra edge
with a live score by English composer
and poet Keaton Henson.
Young Men, 5–10 October
sadlerswells.com
war dance
Good news for ping pong/party
enthusiasts as Bounce, London’s
premier ping pong destination, is set
to open its second venue in the capital.
The idea behind Bounce is to bring the
humble ping pong table out of the back
room and into the centre of the action,
mixing it with a high class night out.
The new Shoreditch base will house
17 ping pong tables, a 25-foot pizza
bar and a cocktail bar. There is even
a private room for those looking to
enjoy their ping pong in peace.
Bounce Shoreditch opens October 2015
bouncepingpong.com
“A moving portrayal of
love, loss and survival”
PING PONG party
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 20157
Summer festivals might be over but
there’s still time to discover some new
music. The Lexington on Pentonville Road
plays host to a variety of bands and new
acts in its retro American lounge bar. This
autumn, up and coming London-based
band Kidwave are on the roster. The band,
led by Norwegian singer Lea Emmery,
released their debut EP this year. Their
distinctive sound has a dream pop and indie
rock vibe, firmly influenced by 90s grunge,
that will take you straight back to summer.
Kid Wave @ The Lexington, 5 October
thelexington.co.uk
lyrics at The Lexington
Run through time
Set on an unassuming road near London Fields is one of
the best ‘escape the room’ experiences on offer. Time
Run is an epic journey through time and space to recover a
lost artefact, pushing participants to escape a series of three
locked rooms or be lost forever.
The attention to detail in both the story and the epic set
design, as well as comic and engaging performances by the
actors, is what sets this experience apart. With just one hour
to complete the mission, Time Run is genuinely exhilarating
and will seriously test your powers of logic.
Time Run, Tuesday to Sunday
time-run.com
WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI
8 The Linen Draper
COVER STORY Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 2015
With more and more Londoners demanding high quality, ethically produced food,
The Linen Draper spoke to some of the people changing the way the capital eats
As every Londoner knows, some
of the capital’s best food can
be found in its street markets and
independent shops. After all, why buy
supermarket food that’s travelled halfway
round the world when you can buy
better food from local people who care
about what they produce?
Many Londoners prefer what’s on
their plates to come from as close to
home as possible. And they’re willing
to pay that bit more to support local
PHOTO: AMY CURRELL
SET DESIGN: ALIKI KIRMITSI
urban food fights back
growers and producers if it means
healthier, tastier food and a more
ethical food system.
So who are these small-scale,
inner-city producers offering us
an alternative to our supermarket-
dominated food system?
The Linen Draper took to the
streets of north and east London
to speak to some of the local people
powering the capital’s growing
urban food scene.
9
10The Linen Draper
COVER STORY Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201511
Wildes Cheese
Wildes Cheese, started in 2012 by
owner Philip Wilton, grew from
the desire to do something creative.
After working as a management
consultant for many years, Philip
became restless and decided it was
time to pack it all in. After looking into
different products, Philip and his partner
settled on cheese.
“We thought for a long time about
what we could make, looking
into vodka, cake, beer
and even jam. But
we kept coming
back to cheese. It’s
something
we love to eat so we
thought, why not?”
says Philip.
After a year of learning the ropes, the
first cheese, named ‘Burt’, went into
production. By Philip’s own admission it
was not up to scratch. “It quickly became
clear that making cheese in the kitchen at
home wouldn’t work and that we couldn’t
make a business out of it,” he says. “So
we got ourselves a commercial unit and
kitted it out.”
Their first cheese, a soft white variety
called the Alexandra Palace, was ready
to go to market in November 2012.
This was after six months of testing
and refining to get it just right.
“I remember selling my first ever
piece of cheese at Alexandra Palace
Farmers’ Market. It was the first
time anyone had given me money
for my cheese. It was lovely
to see people enjoying
what I had made and
taking an interest in
who we were and
what we did,”
Philip recalls.
Since then,
Wildes
Cheese has
continued to
grow and is
now stocked
in delis,
restaurants
and independent
shops across
London. For
Philip, this is how the
company will remain;
a London-made product for the
London market. Part of this is staying
true to his Tottenham roots.
“When we first discussed making
cheese many people said to us ‘you
can’t make cheese in Tottenham’.
But why not in Tottenham? This is
where we live, this is where our friends
are and we are proud to live here,”
he says. “We want to be a part of
the area’s regeneration and put some
commerce into the area. As far as we
are concerned this is where we are
and where we always will be.”
This local identity has played a
huge part in the company’s success
and Philip has seen loyal customers
continually return over the last few
years. Philip believes this is all part of
customers turning away from bland
mass produced products and looking
for quality, local alternatives.
Philip is keen to point out that they are
food producers, not manufacturers, and
creativity will always be at the centre
of what they do. “We try to create
something new every month,” he says.
“If you come along to see us at
one of our weekly stalls, ask for the
‘Brian’. This is the generic name we
give to a cheese that we are currently
experimenting with. We make
something different every time. You
might not like it but we will always
offer our customers something new
and different every time they come
and see us.”
You can find Wildes Cheese’s products in
markets and independent shops across London.
wildescheese.co.uk
“If you come along to
see us at one of our weekly
stalls, ask for the ‘Brian’”
WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI
SQUARE ROOT SODA
The inspiration for Square Root’s handmade sodas came from the micro
brewing industry. “You can go to a pub almost anywhere now and drink
lovely handmade beers but they still just serve standard soft drinks,” says Square
Root’s co-founder Robyn. “I thought we could do something more interesting
and much tastier,” she says.
Duly inspired, Robyn and her partner Ed began juicing at home, drawing on
her skills as a chemistry graduate and Ed’s experience working as a brewer.
Their first flavour was fresh ginger beer, which they sold from kegs at Harringay
Farmers’ Market. Customers loved it and they soon added new flavours from
fresh, seasonal produce. Before long they were using a 1920s tricycle, named
Elsie, to deliver their sodas to local shops and delis.
Square Root now operates from its
own production space in Hackney
and sells between nine and 12
thousand bottles of soda a week.
“It’s suddenly become a monster,”
says Robyn, laughing.
The bedrock of their success according to Robyn is the fact that it’s “a real
product”. The ingredients come from sustainable farms in the UK, so far as
possible. Rhubarb is delivered straight from a farm in Yorkshire and one in Kent
supplies all Square Root’s raspberries and blueberries. Most of the rest is bought
at New Spitalfields Market.
“People aren’t into an ingredients list where you don’t really know what any of
it is, and it’s made in a factory where someone has just pressed a button,” says
Robyn. “I think they like the story behind us and the fact that we do everything
here ourselves. People are starting to respect that in the food industry.”
So much so that this year Square Root won Best Drinks Producer at the BBC
Food and Farming Awards. Not bad for a business that started just three years
ago at Robyn and Ed’s kitchen table.
They still sell their ginger beer, although rhubarb is hands down their most
popular flavour, outselling the others two to one. Look out for their seasonal
autumn soda, apple, and of course for Elsie, still delivering all over Hackney.
Square Root sodas are available in independent shops throughout London.
squarerootsoda.co.uk
WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
“People like the fact that
we do everything ourselves”
12The Linen Draper
COVER STORY Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201513
Mast Brothers chocolate growing
comMunities
Believe it or not, Hackney salad is a thing. It is grown in no
less than 12 small market gardens situated in local parks and
churchyards, and on estates and private land all over Hackney.
Together these gardens make up the Patchwork Farm, the first
organically certified food-growing land in London.
The Patchwork Farm is run by Growing Communities, a Hackney-
based not for profit organisation that is tackling our food system
head on. “The current food system is flawed,” says Growing
Communities’ Fiona McAllister. “It is damaging environmentally
and socially, in terms of farmers not getting fair prices.”
So how do you change a city’s feeding habits in the face of climate
change and support local farmers at the same time?
Growing Communities’ answer is simple. First, you buy sustainably
grown food from small-scale farmers based close to London and
distribute it locally. Secondly, you grow some of it yourself and
train up a new generation of growers at the same time. Hence
Hackney salad.
“We’re working on the ground and doing practical things to
change the food system,” says Fiona. “And we are creating local
jobs. It’s all part of the social enterprise model.”
As well as its Patchwork Farm, Growing Communities owns a two-
acre farm 11 miles away in Dagenham that grows a wider variety
of vegetables on a larger scale.
Having a guaranteed market for the growers’ and local farmers’
produce is key, according to Fiona. Distribution of the food is
through two community-led trading outlets: an organic fruit and
vegetable bag scheme and the Growing Communities Farmers’
Market in Stoke Newington. The bag scheme has about 1,000
customers and Fiona says they are “super-proud” of their product.
“It hasn’t had the same crazy distribution as conventional
supermarkets,” she says. “It’s really fresh, comes from much closer
and isn’t full of pesticides. We try to emphasise the environmental
and social benefits ahead of the health benefits but it’s difficult to
deny those health and taste benefits.”
And Hackney salad could soon be about to reach a wider
audience. It has just been nominated for an Urban Food award in
the London Leaves category for “the sassiest salad and hoopiest
herbs” grown in London.
Growing Communities’ award-winning organic fruit and veg bag scheme has 14
collection points across Hackney. The Farmers’ Market takes place every Saturday
at St Paul’s Church, Stoke Newington, N16 7UY. growingcommunities.org
Brooklyn born and bred chocolate brand Mast Brothers
opened in Shoreditch earlier this year bringing its craft
chocolate philosophy to a new audience.
Brothers Rick and Michael Mast started making chocolate
in 2006 in their Brooklyn apartment, inspired by friends
who were making their own craft food products. After some
research, they started roasting cocoa beans and drying them
out with a hairdryer or on the roof, before turning them into
chocolate bars and selling them at local
farmers’ markets.
Nearly 10 years down the line, the company
has two flagship stores and further plans
to expand. So can this growing chocolate
brand still be considered a craft company?
Shoreditch manager Lani Kingston says:
“All the chocolate sold in the store is made by our small team
of 10 here in Shoreditch. We roast it, crack it, grind it and
hand sort all the beans. We use traditional stone grinders like
the Aztecs and Mayans would have used, which grind down
the cacao nibs and the cane sugar to a really smooth texture,
from which we make our bars. Currently we are producing
around 1,500 a week but we aren’t yet at full capacity because
some of our grinders are dedicated to experimental flavours.”
The shop is an education. Most of the chocolate we eat today
holds less than 10% cocoa. At Mast Brothers, the minimum
cocoa percentage is 60%, while the darkest bar contains a
whopping 76%. Mast Brothers is all about changing people’s
perceptions of what chocolate should be and showing that it
can be produced on a large scale but in an artisan way.
This attention to detail even extends to the packaging, which
is regularly changed for new flavour inspirations, making the
shop look more like an art gallery than a
chocolate shop. The window looking into the
production room allows customers to see the
chocolate makers at work and the smell of
chocolate is mouth-wateringly good.
“We take so much care in the whole process,
everything is done by hand – it’s a minimum
40 days from bean to bar – that we feel the
presentation should showcase this handmade and lovingly
crafted product in the best way possible,” says Lani. “Our
philosophy here in Shoreditch is the same as in Brooklyn, only
with a British twist. Shoreditch is a place that we think really
gets what we are trying to do.”
Mast Brothers, 19-29 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, London E2 7DJ
mastbrothers.com
“Mast Brothers is all
about changing people’s
perceptions of what
chocolate should be”
“We’re doing practical things
to change the food system”
Buy anything you want...
as long as it’s chocolate
WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
14 The Linen Draper
big house with a big heart
The Big House is a Hackney-based charity founded in 2013 by theatre director Maggie
Norris. It uses drama and theatre workshops to help care leavers overcome difficult
childhoods and transition to adulthood. In 2014, after a 12-week course,15 young adults
put on a new play, BABY/LON, at Hackney Downs Studio, based on the cast’s personal
experiences. It ran for three weeks and received rave reviews. Tiernie Thompson, one of the
members of that cast, told The Linen Draper about The Big House and its impact on her life
“
My social worker got me involved
with The Big House. I had left my
foster home and had started getting
into trouble. She knew I’d done drama
in college and enjoyed it, so she sent me
an email about The Big House but
I refused to read it. Then Maggie got in
contact and I arranged to meet her.
Maggie told me about The Big House
but first she wanted to hear about me.
There was this vibe about her and as
soon as I met her I felt like I knew her.
I don’t really trust people easily but
I had so much trust for her. So I told
her my story.
I had been in foster homes since
I was 12 after social services found out
about my mum’s drug problems. I can’t
remember how many foster parents
I had but I ran away about 10 times.
Finally, I moved in with a foster carer in
Broadstairs in Kent. When I left school
I started studying Performing Arts at
East Kent College but I fell out with my
foster carer and came back to London.
My foster carer had made me feel
I couldn’t do things on my own. She told
me I’d get depressed or commit suicide
and I needed to stay with her to survive.
But I thought I should find out for
myself if I could cope or not.
So I moved back to my mum’s in
London and commuted to college for
a year to finish my course. It killed me,
it was an hour and a half train journey
each way. And living back at my mum’s
was stressful, as I had to stay under her
roof, under her rules.
When we met, Maggie invited me to
one of the Saturday workshops. I was
dreading it, I was so scared. During my
teenage years I would just sit in my room
and isolate
myself, as
I was full
of anger
and hate for
the world.
I worried
about being
with people
my own age
as I thought
they would
hate me and bully me.
On the first Saturday, Maggie met
me outside and took me into The
Big House. Everyone was dancing
and jumping around and having fun
but I didn’t join in. I just moved into
the corner and tried to make myself
invisible.
After that first workshop, Maggie asked
me to come back the following Saturday.
I wasn’t intending to go every week,
I thought I’d go once so I could tell
my social worker and she would leave
me alone.
But I went back to The Big House, and
even though I didn’t want to admit it,
I enjoyed it. One of the things we did
was ‘circle time’ where we would talk
about our life. No one else in college
had been in care, but at The Big House
no one had come from a perfect life,
everyone had their own struggles. That
ARTS AND CULTURE
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201515
brought us all together. I was shy at first
but after a few workshops I settled in and
started to accept these people into my
life, which was really hard for me.
One Saturday Maggie
handed out rough scripts
that Andy [The Big House’s
playwright] had written
and we did a read through
of what would become
BABY/LON. We went in
every day for rehearsals
and as Maggie had
teamed up with the Job
Centre it counted as work
experience. I loved it, even though
there was so much to remember.
BABY/LON ran for three weeks.
After every performance the crowd
was cheering – it was a feeling you
can’t describe. All that hard work we’d
done had paid off with those claps and
whistles. My mum and dad came and
it was the first time I heard my dad
say he was proud of me. I’ll always
remember that night.
I’ve now got a job at M&S and am
auditioning for acting parts. Before
Christmas I was in a Sam Smith video
and I have also played a waitress in
the BBC drama, Detectorists, with
Mackenzie Crook. By the end of next
year I want to be in a movie with Tom
Cruise. If you don’t dream, you’re not
going to get anywhere. Also, I’m setting
up my own independent production
company. If roles don’t come to me,
I’m going to set up my own.
I wouldn’t even be here today if it wasn’t
for The Big House. I’m happy and stable
now. I was in a really bad place and
now I’ve found the end of the rainbow.
The Big House gave me structure,
commitment and friendships. Everyone
I was with at The Big House is still a
friend, in fact, they’re not even friends,
they’re family. We all still talk and hang
out. That’s what it gives you, a family.
There are loads of people who need
something like The Big House in their
life. Every time someone goes into
The Big House I see them leave with
a smile and it makes me smile. There
aren’t many places like it. You can go
to drama school but they don’t give you
the same support. The Big House treats
you differently, with more respect. They
acknowledge your background and they
work with you through it.
They also give you that extra support
that you need, such as filling in CVs
and applying for jobs. They helped me
with my hostel as I had problems with
benefits and paying rent because I wasn’t
working. Now I live in my own flat – it’s
nice having my own place.
Maggie is a great woman, a guardian
angel sent down to earth. If I hadn’t had
Maggie and The Big House in my life,
I can’t imagine my world right now.”
The Big House is putting on True Man from
18 November to 12 December at Rio Cinema,
107 Kingsland High Street, E8. For ticket
information go to thebighouse.uk.com
“It was the first time
I heard my dad say he was
proud of me. I’ll always
remember that night”
“I was in a Sam Smith
video and also played
a waitress in the BBC
drama, Detectorists,
with Mackenzie Crook”
BABY/LON was a huge success
The Big House helped Tiernie
Thompson turn her life around
WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
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currell.com
20 The Linen Draper
PROPERTY AND INTERIORS
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201521
SMALL SPACE
BIG THINKING
From the street, the appearance
of this delightfully modern home
is incredibly deceptive. The slim
white façade, dotted with a series
of small windows, hides an altogether
larger interior.
The property, by award-winning
developers Noble House Properties,
opens up as you walk through the
narrow entrance into a light-filled
open plan interior.
Every inch of space has been used
to maximum effect. The enclosed
garden at the rear is a stunning feature
that brings the garden inside all year
round.
Previously a garage and yard, extensive
planning was required to reconfigure
the unusual space into a three bedroom
house that includes a cinema room.
The Linen Draper takes a look at a modern De Beauvoir house that is deceptively large
Alex Oliver, a director of Noble House,
says: “Our aim was to create a modern,
cutting-edge space using specialist
materials and taking advantage of the
natural light. The site is unusual as it
is a narrow infill at the front, opening
substantially at the rear, so it was
important to make a statement of the
narrow façade. This was the thinking
behind the tiled frontage.”
The result is a modern property
that manages to both blend into the
surrounding architecture while still
marking itself out as unique.
The house is in the De Beauvoir area
of Islington, close to the boutiques, bars
and restaurants of Upper Street and
Essex Road. It is moments from Essex
Road railway station and within easy
reach of both Angel and Old Street
underground stations.
This three bedroom house is small on the
outside, but large and bright on the inside
“Our aim was
to create a modern,
cutting-edge space,
taking advantage
of the natural light”
Northchurch Road is on the market for £1,350,000
All enquiries 020 7226 4200 currell.com
WORDS:GINAWASIKOWSKI
PROPERTY AND INTERIORS
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201523
As the nights start drawing
in, keep your home feeling
warm and looking bright
with the latest lights from
some of the best lighting
designers in the business
style
watch
Lighting
22 The Linen Draper
Launched at Clerkenwell
Design Week 2015
Launching at the London
Design Festival 2015
Core pendant in Carrara marble,
Single pendant, £125, Terence Woodgate
terencewoodgate.com
Tilt brass pendant lamp,
from£340, Nyta
nyta.eu
w152 Busby LED
lighting collection,
coming soon to
twentytwentyone
twentytwentyone.com
COSY
COPPER
Tidy tilts
CORE
CRAZY
LED
LIVING
trendy
Tripod
WORDS: SALLY GRONDOWSKI
Austin Collection at MADE,
Table lamp, £49
Floor lamp, £79
Clustered ceiling pendant, £79
made.com
Equipo Santa & Cole Collection at twentytwentyone
Tripode G5 floor lamp, 1994, £415
GT6 pendant light, 1994, £255
Tripode G6 table lamp, 2002, £330
twentytwentyone.com
currell.com
Islington
Sales: 020 7226 4200
Lettings: 020 7288 9109
islington@currell.com
An impressive five-storey terraced Victorian property, refurbished to an exceptionally high standard. This spacious and beautifully
presented home offers well-proportioned living space, with luxurious bathroom suites and spacious bedrooms, as well as an
enclosed rear garden. Although modernised throughout, the restoration of original features has maintained the period charm of the
property. Aubert Road is situated just off Highbury Grove and offers easy access to Highbury and Islington. EPC Rating: C
Aubert Road, N5
£POA
currell.com
A rare opportunity to purchase a Grade II listed
property on the renowned Wilmington Square in
Bloomsbury. The property is currently configured into
three flats, with original period features and scope
to create a unique home. Conveniently located for
easy access to Angel, Exmouth Market and the local
shops of Amwell Street.
Naoroji Street, WC1X
£1,125,000 Leasehold
Wilmington Square, WC1X
£2,600,000 Freehold
A two bedroom, two bathroom apartment
with a large terrace set within the West City
One development. Accommodation measures
approximately 906sqft and further comprises an
open plan kitchen, living room and dining room
area. An expansive terrace can be accessed from
both bedrooms. Underground parking available by
separate negotiation. EPC Rating: B
Clerkenwell
020 7253 2533
clerkenwell@currell.com
Nestled in this quiet development is this beautiful two
bedroom mews house, set over two floors. The property
is stylishly finished with plenty of entertaining space and
access to communal outdoor areas. Shore Mews is well
located between the open spaces of both Victoria Park
and London Fields, close to both Broadway Market and
Victoria Park Village. EPC Rating: C
Situated in a popular Victoria Park location is this
substantial four-storey, mid-terrace Victorian house. The
property has three bedrooms, including a grand master
suite with dressing room and en-suite bathroom. There
is a decked garden accessed from the kitchen diner,
making it perfect for entertaining. Available now,
part furnished.
Victoria Park
020 3222 5555
victoriapark@currell.com
Shore Mews, E9
£610,000 Share of Freehold
Fremont Street, E9
£1,100 per week*
currell.com
*Tenancy fees apply. For more information visit www.currell.com/info/fees
Hackney
020 7241 4111
hackney@currell.com
An end of terrace period house located in the heart of London Fields. Located on a quiet residential street, this five bedroom family house
is arranged over three levels, at just over 2,000sqft. Offering practical space with a mixture of contemporary fixtures and Victorian charm,
the current owners have refurbished and extended the house. A rear enclosed garden is accessible from the large kitchen/diner. St Phillip’s
Road offers easy access to the amenities of London Fields, Broadway Market, Dalston and Victoria Park. EPC Rating: D
St Philip’s Road, E8
£1,850,000 Freehold
currell.com
FOOD AND DRINK
28 The Linen Draper Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201529
London’s answer to champagne
When you think about smoked
salmon, you are unlikely to think
of an industrial warehouse in Fish
Island. But that’s exactly where you
will find H. Forman & Son, one of the
country’s oldest and best smoked salmon
producers, who have been plying their
trade in east London for more than
100 years.
The company was started in 1905
in Stepney Green by Harry Forman,
a Russian immigrant who brought with
him a knowledge of fish curing. Harry
developed a special cure for the salmon
he imported from Scotland and before
long his client list included Fortnum
& Mason and some of the top 5-star
hotels in London. To this day, it is
Harry’s ‘London Cure’ for which
H. Forman & Son is famed.
Lance Forman, current owner of the
business and great-grandson of Harry,
only joined the company in his early
30s but has always had the business
in his blood. “I could slice a smoked
salmon at the age of six,” he says.
“Vacuum packed
smoked salmon didn’t
exist when I was young,
all salmon had to be
carved. Dad would
bring home a whole
side of salmon at the
weekend and I would
learn how to do it.”
Lance has spent the
past 17 years working to
maintain the quality for which
H. Forman & Son has become known,
as well as trying to keep the East End
tradition of smoking salmon alive.
“There’s a common misconception that
smoked salmon is a Scottish thing,”
he says. “It isn’t, it’s a real East End
trade. It is only since salmon farming
was introduced on a large scale in the
70s and 80s that it has migrated up to
Scotland because it’s closer to where the
fish are. Even as late as the 70s there
were around a dozen
smokehouses in the
East End. We are
the last remaining
one,” he says.
So how is it that
H. Forman & Son
has survived where
others have failed?
“Our methods
haven’t changed in
over 100 years, we do things in a very
traditional way” says Lance. “We don’t
believe in using machines, everything
is done by hand. This is why we are an
artisan business because real skills are
required to produce our salmon.
“What a lot of other companies did was
try to cut costs with new technology
in order to compete. We have never
compromised on the quality of the
product in this way which is why I think
we have survived,” he says.
As well as maintaining the high quality
of salmon that Forman’s customers
have come to expect, Lance is anxious
to educate people about what smoked
salmon really is.
“Smoked salmon in general has lost its
way,” he says. “If you think back 15
years, there was respect for this product,
it was seen as something special, the first
gourmet food in the UK. Now, it is so
readily available in supermarkets that
people don’t understand what it should
taste like because what mass producers
supply is not smoked salmon in the
traditional sense.”
If the big supermarkets aren’t giving us
the real deal then, what should we be
getting? “Firstly, you aren’t supposed to
taste smoke. The purpose of the smoke
in the process is purely to preserve the
fish. This is a technique that has been
used for hundreds of years before we
had the luxury of fridges. It is not to
add flavour,” says Lance.
“Most complaints I hear from
people eating cheap salmon is that it
leaves an unpleasant smoky aftertaste.
The other is that the salmon is slimy. If
salmon tastes slimy, this means it hasn’t
been dried properly and has retained
too much water. Smoked salmon should
truly just taste of salmon and the curing
process serves to enhance this taste,” he
explains.
To emphasise the quality of his product,
Forman’s salmon has recently received
Protected Geographical Indication (PGI)
status – an award by the European
Commission that protects and promotes
named regional food products. This
means Forman’s ‘London Cure Smoked
Salmon’ now has the same status as
champagne, and amazingly is the first
London-based food to achieve this
accolade. Lance hopes it will show
people that salmon is a London product
and one that the East End can proudly
claim as its own.
You can try H. Forman & Son’s award winning
smoked salmon at their on-site restaurant, where
you can also see the salmon curers at work. Or, visit
their online shop formanandfield.com.
H. Forman & Son, Stour Road, Fish Island,
London E3 2NT
Hackney’s H. Forman & Son has been celebrated for its smoked salmon for more than
100 years. The Linen Draper’s Gina Wasikowski met owner Lance Forman at the
company’s Fish Island smokery to discover the secret of his family business’s success
and hear about the award that puts Forman’s smoked salmon on a par with champagne
“There’s a common
misconception that
smoked salmon is a
Scottish thing. It isn’t,
it’s an East End trade”
Beetroot cured salmon at Forman’s restaurant
All Forman’s smoked salmon is prepared
by hand on site at its Fish Island premises
Forman’s restaurant overlooks
Stratford’s Olympic Stadium
Salmon is still smoked using
traditional artisan methods
FOOD AND DRINK
30 The Linen Draper
With gin back at the top of the capital’s cocktail menus nearly 300 years after it first took
the city by storm, we spoke to Jonathan Clark, owner of the City of London Distillery
(COLD), about his locally distilled gin and London’s rekindled passion for ‘mother’s ruin’
The first thing you notice when you descend the stairs
into COLD’s speakeasy-style bar just off Fleet Street
are two huge copper stills standing proudly behind a large
sheet of glass.
Given that this is the first distillery in the Square Mile for
nearly 200 years, you can see why they would be put so
prominently on display. Plus, they are beautiful, unusual
looking pieces of machinery.
“Meet Clarissa and Jennifer,” says COLD owner Jonathan
Clark. “I had them made to measure in Germany. They’re
named after the TV chefs, the Two Fat
Ladies.”
Jonathan set up COLD in 2012 on the
site of what in Fleet Street’s heyday
had been a drinking den humming
with journalists. “Fleet Street had gone
so I had to reinvent the place,” says
Jonathan. “I had a new-found love
of gin so I thought I’d put a distillery
inside a bar. No one in England had
done that before.”
His timing couldn’t have been better. The UK is riding
the wave of a new gin craze that has seen the number of
distilleries rise from five to more than 35 in the last six years.
Jonathan puts this down in part to the fact that people are
always looking for something different. “Also, I don’t really
like the name ‘craft’ gin but I think people buy into how it is
made and the botanicals [the ingredients used to give gin its
flavour], as well as the history behind the gin,” he says.
Jonathan is keen to keep the recipes for his gins, all of
which are made in Clarissa and Jennifer, a closely guarded
secret. But he is more than happy to show me a giant
GIN is the new black
cauldron of sloes that have been marinating “for a while”.
He won’t be more precise.
He then puts me to a taste test of his City of London Sloe
Gin against one of its rivals. His is a deeper red colour and
is richer and smoother tasting even to an undiscerning gin
drinker like myself. “That won Outstanding Silver at the
International Wine and Spirit competition,” says Jonathan.
“Out of 26 gins we got the highest award in the country.”
John is hoping for further accolades following the recent
appointment of Tom Nichol, former master distiller of
Tanquery Gin, as a consultant distiller.
He sees this as a big coup for a small distiller.
“I’m doing 25,000 bottles a year now, which
is small, but that will increase with Tom
on board.”
Together they have created a new gin, called
the Sir Christopher Wren, to go alongside
his sloe gin, Dry Gin (best for G&Ts),
higher-proof one-shot Square Mile gin and
an Old Tom gin made for the Dorchester
Hotel. The new gin goes on sale at the end of October and
will be the only one Tom makes in the UK.
COLD also runs tours and a Gin Lab Experience where
visitors can mix the botanicals, distill their own bottle of
gin and design their own label. It is a far cry from the days
when gin was distilled in virtually every building in the City
but it matters to Jonathan. “We are now the only distillery
in the City of London and heritage is everything, absolutely
everything.”
COLD is offering Gin Lab Experiences to two readers chosen by him
who can correctly answer this question: “What type of still is Clarissa?”
Answers to gill@cityoflondondistillery.com. More details about COLD
can be found at cityoflondondistillery.com
“We are now the only
distillery in the City of
London and heritage is
everything, absolutely
everything”
WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
City of London Distillery
Millionaire Cocktail
32 The Linen Draper Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201533
Method
1.	 Start by prepping the vegetables: deseed the pepper and then finely shred
it, and the mange tout, into thin strips; finely chop the spring onions, carrot
ginger, red chilli, lemongrass and coriander.
2.	 Cut the pak choi in half, drizzle a little oil over it and roast in the oven for 4‐5
minutes until it starts to soften but is still crispy on the outside. Keep warm.
3.	 Heat some sesame oil in a wok, add all the vegetables and stir‐fry; you still
want a little crispiness to the vegetables. Add the beansprouts and coriander
and stir. Fry for a further couple of minutes. Keep warm.
4.	 Place the marinated black cod on a baking tray and cook in the oven at
210C for about 12 minutes. You want a nice charred effect on the cod.
5.	 To serve, put the stir‐fry vegetables on a plate, then place the cod on the
vegetables, skin side down. Garnish with the roasted pak choi and drizzle
a little of the miso sauce over the top.
4x portions of black cod in miso
(purchased from Forman & Field)
250g beansprouts
200g mange tout
1x red pepper
1⁄2 bunch spring onions
100g ginger
2 sticks of lemongrass
1x red chilli
1⁄2 bunch coriander
1x carrot
2 heads of pak choi
Sesame oil
This version of the recipe made famous by Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa comes
from Forman & Field’s chef Matthew Smith. It is perfect for entertaining friends, tastes
great served with oriental stir fry vegetables and couldn’t be simpler to make
Roasted Black Cod in Miso
Ingredients (Serves 4)
formanandfield.com
FOOD AND DRINK
What does the future hold
for children like Kieran?
020 7288 6941
islingtongiving.org.uk
Opportunity in Islington
Did you know that 34% of children in Islington
are living in poverty? Or that Islington has a
higher proportion of 16 to 18 years olds not in
employment, education or training than the
national and London averages?
Look beyond the leafy affluence and you will find
lots of disadvantaged young people in Islington
who simply want to make a better life for
themselves. To get involved. To make a difference.
We fund local organisations to provide the
activities that young people want and need. So
that they can have fun, build confidence and
social skills, promote healthy living and connect
to new opportunities.
If you want to help kids like Kieran grasp a better
future, right here on your doorstep, get in touch.
Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and pour in
all the ingredients. Shake well and then
strain into a cocktail glass. Serve.
The City of London Distillery bar has the feel of a Prohibition-era drinking den so it is
appropriate that the cocktail it recommends dates back to that time. There are
a variety of Millionaire Cocktails around but this recipe is based on the classic one
in The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock, first published in 1930
20ml of City of London Sloe Gin
20ml Apricot Liqueur
20ml Rum
20ml Lime Juice
10ml Grenadine
DRINK LIKE A MILLIONAIRE
Ingredients
cityoflondondistillery.com
A FAIRER WAY TO BUY Food
Haggerston Food Assembly enables lovers of good food to cut out the middle man
and buy direct from local farmers and producers. The Linen Draper talked to organiser
of the assembly Becks Scurlock about her passion for high-quality, local produce
What is the Haggerston Food
Assembly?
Haggerston Food Assembly is a weekly
food market, where people buy food
directly from producers and farmers.
Any produce sold has to be sourced
from within 150 miles of Haggerston.
Broadly speaking, the Food Assembly is
a movement of people creating a better
and fairer food system.
34 The Linen Draper
How did it start?
Food Assembly was set up in France
in 2011 and quickly spread across
Europe. It launched in the UK in the
summer of 2014, which is when we
heard about it. We have always been
interested in high-quality, local food
and knew that in Haggerston there
would be an appetite for this kind of
thing, so we signed up.
Why did you think it would work
in Haggerston?
As Haggerston residents ourselves, we
had become frustrated with the lack of
quality food available in local shops.
We were limited to Tesco, convenience
stores or a long walk to Shoreditch or
Dalston. We sensed an opportunity to
bring together some of the amazing
small food and drinks producers in
Hackney and make their stuff available
locally at a time when the community
is growing and demand is increasing.
So how do people go about buying
food from the Food Assembly?
There are three simple steps to buying
from the Food Assembly:
1. Register online as a member (see
details below). 2. Select the food you
want to buy before the online shop
closes on Sunday evening. 3. Pick the
food up the following Tuesday between
7 and 8.30pm at the Proud Archivist on
Hertford Road, N1.
Why is this way of shopping
‘better and fairer’?
Firstly, the assembly takes the anonymity
out of shopping by connecting the
producer with the consumer. Secondly,
there is no waste because the farmer
knows exactly how much to deliver in
advance of the assembly. The average
distance of a meal made with Food
Assembly produce is 27 miles, compared
to 90,000 for a typical supermarket
meal. This has a huge impact on
the environment. Finally, it is better
economically for the producers as on
average they get 83.3% of the sale
price compared to 10% at mainstream
supermarkets.
What are your roles as the local
hosts for the Food Assembly?
It’s our responsibility to manage the
weekly sale, organise events, market the
Frustration at the lack of good quality local
food shops spurred Becks and Theo to set
up Haggerston Food Assembly in 2014
Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201535
assembly to the local community and
find the venue. As hosts, we receive an
8% commission on products sold.
How do you source producers?
There are a few basics that each
assembly has to
provide such as,
meat, fish, bread,
and fruit and
vegetables. Beyond
that, each host
is free to identify
other producers
and farmers that
diversify their range.
We are always on
the lookout for interesting, well-crafted
products that we can get excited about
and enjoy. We also try to find producers
that are very close to Hackney.
How many producers have you
currently got signed up, and what
kind of products do they sell?
We currently have 15 producers on
board, with more to come later in the
year. We have a real range of products
on offer including biodynamic fruit and
eggs from Brambletye Farm in Sussex;
British quinoa, beans and pulses from
Hodmedod’s in Suffolk and organic
vegetables from Brockmans in Kent.
Local producers include: Cobble Lane
Cured, an Islington based charcuterie,
Square Root, who make handmade
sodas, brewers Signature Brew, and
Barnes & Webb,
urban beekeepers.
All these producers
are passionate
about providing
quality produce.
How many
members do
you currently
have?
We have nearly 1,000 members and that
number is steadily growing. Members of
the Food Assembly can join up to three
assemblies in London or beyond if they
wish, so not all 1,000 members will be
local to Haggerston. But we’ve worked
out that nearly one in three people that
have signed up as members have made
a purchase with us.
Is there a typical customer profile?
Our customers come from all walks of
life: retirees, bankers, graphic designers,
Hackney born and bred to Californian,
Irish and Kazakhstani. There’s no
obvious pattern. The thing that binds
our customers is a love of good food,
a frustration with the monopoly of the
supermarkets and the relative exclusivity
of the established food markets (e.g
Broadway, Borough) which are often
difficult for smaller producers to access.
Why do you think promoting small
and local producers is so important?
It’s important because it reconnects
people with the food that they’re eating,
which is lost when buying household
brands from supermarkets. There is
such an amazing array of talent and
creativity that often doesn’t have a fair
route to market. Food Assembly provides
a platform to those producers. Their
produce comes with a story and is the
result of a lot of hard work and passion
for what they are doing. It’s great to give
them and the customers the chance to
share that experience.
Haggerston Food Assembly takes place from
7pm on Tuesdays at the Proud Archivist,
2-10 Hertford Road, London, N1 5ET.
To register with Haggerston Food Assembly
go to thefoodassembly.com
“The produce comes
with a story and is the
result of a lot of hard
work and passion for
what they are doing”
Suppliers to the Food Assembly typically
receive 83.3% of the sale price of produce sold
compared to just 10% at most supermarkets
LIFESTYLE
WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI
LIFESTYLE
36 The Linen Draper Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201537
The NSPCC Islington Branch
Literary lunch with
of Us, One Day, The Understudy and Starter For Ten
Kindly sponsored by JD Law
DATE:
Wednesday
14 October 2015
TIME:
12:00–14.30
VENUE:
Almeida Restaurant,
Almeida Street,
Islington,
N1 1AD
TICKETS COST £45
Please contact Alison: 020 7226 7738 alison@samuel-family.co.uk
Standing in a white jacket and apron,
knife in hand, isn’t my usual start to
a Tuesday morning. Today, however, is
going to be a bit different. I’ve made
a trip to MEAT in Stoke Newington,
to sharpen up my butchery skills.
I meet Paul Grout, co-owner and
long-time butcher, to chat through the
requirements for becoming a top class
butcher. Fortunately, according to Paul,
no essential skills are required. Excellent!
“I mean being skilled with your hands is
an obvious requirement,” says Paul. Ah.
“But really,” Paul continues, “more than
anything it’s about the will to want to do
it. If you don’t try to get better then you
won’t; it’s as simple as that. Butchery is
all about learning at your own pace. It
could take some people weeks to learn
one skill and someone else months. It
Independent butcher MEAT sources quality
produce from across the UK. MEAT’s co-
owner Paul Grout is determined to put meat
we can trust onto our plates,and to educate
people about the skilled art of butchery
doesn’t matter as
long as you keep
trying.”
So don’t give up.
I can do that. But
is being a woman
a hindrance in this traditionally male
dominated trade? “It’s not like it used to
be,” says Paul. “Obviously a lot of the
role is incredibly heavy lifting but there’s
no reason why a woman can’t do that.
It would be sexist to say a woman
couldn’t carry a 20kg side of beef. Nor
could I! Women are as capable as men
in this trade.”
With these words ringing in my ears
I meet Troy, the head butcher at MEAT
who has kindly offered to give me a one-
on-one masterclass. There is no messing
about, we jump straight into boning a
shoulder of lamb right on the shop floor.
Firstly, the spine has to be removed,
which thankfully no longer has a head
attached. It’s quite simple according to
Troy – follow the line of the bone and
don’t push the knife in too far. I watch
him do one side and try to mimic him on
the other. My line ends up being rather
shaky with varying degrees of depth in
the cut but I just about get away with it.
Once the spine is removed it’s on to the
remainder of the shoulder bone. The
key lesson here is: follow the bone. The
main problem is that I’m not entirely
sure what is bone and what is meat.
Forty minutes later this confusion leaves
me with a slightly hacked piece of lamb
sitting in front of me. To make it worse,
Troy can bone a shoulder of lamb
perfectly in around 30 seconds. Clearly
I have some way to go. Butchery
inefficiency aside, I am keen to know
more about the lamb itself, and where
it came from, before it unknowingly
became my next meal.
“Our lambs are Colne Valley and
Dorset Down breeds, our beef is from
“I can look my customers in
the eye and assure them about
where the meat comes from”
the Scottish Highlands and our pigs
are from the South Downs where they
literally roam around free range; all
from quality British farmers,” says Paul.
“We have great relationships with our
suppliers and I can look my customers
in the eye and assure them about where
the meat comes from, the food they eat
and the life they lived. Yes, this costs the
customer more, but people are willing
to pay for better, honest products.”
At the end of my masterclass I have
a shoulder of lamb worth £21 tied up
THE KNIVES ARE OUT
and ready to take home to expectant
dinner party guests. It might not look as
nice as Troy’s but it’s not half bad.
Knowing I can trust the provenance of
the meat 100% makes it even better and
with all ten fingers still attached, it feels
like a triumph.
MEAT offers a variety of butchery
masterclasses in the shop at 104 Stoke
Newington Church St, N16 0LA.
For more information visit meatlondon.co.uk
MEAT stocks only the finest quality
produce from British farmers
WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI
Head butcher Troy puts Gina to
work boning a lamb shoulder
MEAT also sells wine,
cheese and deli products
Currell Chartered Surveyors,
309 Upper Street, Islington,
London N1 2TU
020 7354 5050 
commercialagency@currell.com 
currell.com
RICS VALUATIONS    LEASE ADVISORY    COMMERCIAL AGENCY    INVESTMENT    DEVELOPMENT CONSULTANCY                       
I’m standing on a towpath next to an
industrial estate. In front of me is the
muddy grime of the river Lea. Behind
me, Amazon’s gigantic distribution
centre. Across the water I can see the
skyscrapers of Canary Wharf.
I’ve come foraging for wild food with
guide John Rensten. Surely a less
promising place to unleash my inner
hunter-gatherer would be hard to find?
Not according to John.
“Turn on your green vision and start
seeing things,” he encourages his group
Why buy food when you can pick it straight out of the ground?
The Linen Draper sent Simon Manuel foraging for his dinner
LONDON AS A LARDER
of 30 urban foragers. I look around
and spot an empty Heineken can, some
weeds and a few straggly bits of scrub.
My shoes look more edible. But for
John, it is like walking into a giant larder.
Within seconds he has picked out Hoary
Mustard (a member of the cabbage
family), Fat Hen (a type of wild spinach)
and Sea Buckhorn (whose small orange
berries are good with cheese, and for
making jams and cordials). 	
John’s enthusiasm is infectious:
“Compared to what you usually eat,
eating wild food is like turning the
volume up,” he says. Soon, we are all at
it, munching away on bits of leaf, twig
and the odd berry.
Some of it tastes only vaguely like
food but John is keen to point out that
“nature is not a supermarket. You need
to pick stuff at the right time and the
window of ripeness for any particular
food may only be a few days.”
John is an engaging teacher as he
describes the virtues of Rose Hip
(seven times the vitamin C of oranges)
and Ribwort Plantain (a superfood
whose tiny heads have as much fibre as
a bowl of porridge). He explains how
one of the keys to foraging is being able
to identify plants as they change and
grow. “It’s a lovely slow, multi-layered
learning process,” he says. “It’s like the
reverse of the Internet. The information
isn’t readily available, it comes gradually
with repeated visits.”
With that he wanders off toward the
banks of the river and plucks out a
plant with parsley-shaped leaves and
a strange umbrella-like flower on top.
“This is Hemlock Water Dropwort, the
most poisonous plant in Britain,” says
John. “The amount in my hand would
be enough to kill you. It would be a slow,
agonising death.”
I find myself staring anxiously at my feet
as if being told off by a teacher in case
I’d even thought about eating it. My
shoes are looking tastier by the second.
It has been a fascinating few hours but
maybe foraging isn’t for me after all.
The event was put on by Create London as
part of a project being delivered by the London
Legacy Development Corporation to promote
The Leaway, a new route that will connect the
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park to the Royal
Docks and the river Thames.
Details of foraging walks and courses run by
John Rensten can be found at foragelondon.co.uk
John identifies Britain’s most dangerous
plant (top); the fruits of our labours
(above); urban and ready to forage (right)
“The amount in my
hand would be enough
to kill you”
LIFESTYLE
38 The Linen Draper
PHOTOS: EMIL CHARLAFF
WORDS:
SIMON MANUEL
The Linen Draper Issue 2

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The Linen Draper Issue 2

  • 1. Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 2015 THE URBAN FOOD ISSUE *Cockney rhyming slang for ‘newspaper’ Fish Island smoked salmon – Hackney salad – London gin Shoreditch chocolate – Handmade soda – Foraging – Tottenham cheese
  • 2. Established in 1990, Currell is a full service property agency with offices across London. Call us now for a free valuation. currell.com Currell Islington 321 Upper Street Islington, N1 2XQ 020 7226 4200 islington@currell.com Currell Battersea 205 Lavender Hill, Battersea, SW11 5TB 020 3668 1000 battersea@currell.com Currell Victoria Park 81 Lauriston Park Victoria Park, E9 7HJ 020 3222 5555 victoriapark@currell.com Currell Clerkenwell 122/124 St John Street Clerkenwell, EC1V 4JS 020 7253 2533 clerkenwell@currell.com Currell Hackney 305 Kingsland Road Hackney, E8 4EG 020 7241 4111 hackney@currell.com Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 20153 FEAST YOUR EYES ON THIS EDITED AND WRITTEN BY: Simon Manuel and Gina Wasikowski DESIGNED BY: Sally Grondowski CONTRIBUTORS: Alice Currell and Imogen Williams CONTENTS 8-13 COVER STORY London’s urban food producers on a mission to improve what we eat 4-7 OUT AND ABOUT The best of what’s on in and around north and east London this autumn 14-15 ARTs AND CULTURE Meet one of The Big House’s success stories, Tiernie Thompson 20-23 property and interiors A deceptive house and this season’s trends in lighting for your home 28-33 FOOD AND DRINK Fish Island smoked salmon and the only gin distillery in the City of London 34-38 LIFESTYLE Mastering butchery, a fairer way to shop and foraging for your dinner Cover image: PHOTOGRAPHY: Amy Currell, amycurrell.com SET DESIGN: Aliki Kirmitsi, alikikirmitsi.com Printed in the UK by Mortons, mortons.co.uk Published by Currell, currell.com Food is big business in London and its reputation worldwide as a foodie mecca is on the rise. But as well as the high-profile pop-ups and the Michelin-starred restaurants, the capital also has a wealth of less-heralded food and drinks producers. These skilled, committed Londoners are bringing fantastic locally grown and crafted food to our markets, shops, restaurants and bars. For Issue 02 of The Linen Draper, we hunted down some of the best local producers on our doorstep in north and east London. Who would have thought that Fish Island would be home to one of the oldest and best smoked salmon producers in the UK (p28–29) or that a gin distillery sits in the heart of the City of London (p30)? Stranger still, who knew there was such a thing as Hackney salad (p13), or that you can forage for your dinner by the river Lea (p38)? We also try our hand at butchery (p36–37), meet the Haggerston Food Assembly (p34–35) and round up the best things to do this autumn. You can see some of the food that is mentioned in the following pages beautifully portrayed on our front cover, and in our cover story (p8–13), by talented food stylist Aliki Kirmitsi and photographer Amy Currell. We would love to hear your feedback on our second issue, so please feel free to email us at thelinendraper@currell.com. Gina Wasikowski, Head of Marketing, Currell
  • 3. 4 The Linen Draper out and about build a bike If you fancy building a bike that is guaranteed to turn heads, we’ve got just the place for you. The Bamboo Bicycle Club near Hackney Wick runs weekend workshops that help cycle enthusiasts build their own custom bicycles – out of bamboo. Bamboo is an excellent material for making bicycles as it absorbs vibration and offers a smooth ride even over London’s crumbling streets. The bikes are also light, strong and long-lasting. The workshop provides you with all the tools and materials you need to construct a frame tailored to your own unique vision. Creations can range from tandems to road bikes, electrics to hybrids, and more. The Bamboo Bicycle Club is a must for lovers of life on two wheels – and bamboo. Workshops, 19–20 September & 3–4 October bamboobicycleclub.org GO POTTY FOR POTTERY One of the best local museums in London, the Geffrye Museum, will once again play host to ‘Ceramics in the City’ during London Design Week. The event sees 50 potters, both well-known and rising talents, from around the UK display their creative wares. The range of pottery on show, from classic homeware to delicate porcelain and more quirky one off pieces, will delight pottery enthusiasts as well as show those less in the know what it’s all about. More importantly, much of what is on display is affordable, with prices starting from just £10. 25–27 September geffrye-museum.org.uk Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 20155 autumn in the city off the beaten track If you’re looking for something different to do this weekend, Alternative London could be the answer. Specialising in themed tours around east London, the Alternative London Walking Tour is perfect for Londoners new and old wanting to discover more about the capital’s coolest destination. Designed to educate people in the history of the area and what the future may hold, the tour also takes in some of the best street art that the city has to offer. Tours take around two hours, starting from Spitalfields Market. The best part? You pay as much as you want, making it affordable for everyone. Tableware by Elliott Denny (left) and Deep Pink on Carved White Bone China by Penny Fowler (above)
  • 4. 6 The Linen Draper out and about Following a hugely successful sell-out run in January, BalletBoyz return to Sadler’s Wells in October with Young Men, a moving portrayal of love, loss and survival set against the backdrop of war. Drawing inspiration from images of conflict through the ages, the production is a compelling hybrid of dance, theatre and screen performance. Produced by BalletBoyz’s artistic directors Michael Nunn and William Trevitt, the show is given an extra edge with a live score by English composer and poet Keaton Henson. Young Men, 5–10 October sadlerswells.com war dance Good news for ping pong/party enthusiasts as Bounce, London’s premier ping pong destination, is set to open its second venue in the capital. The idea behind Bounce is to bring the humble ping pong table out of the back room and into the centre of the action, mixing it with a high class night out. The new Shoreditch base will house 17 ping pong tables, a 25-foot pizza bar and a cocktail bar. There is even a private room for those looking to enjoy their ping pong in peace. Bounce Shoreditch opens October 2015 bouncepingpong.com “A moving portrayal of love, loss and survival” PING PONG party Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 20157 Summer festivals might be over but there’s still time to discover some new music. The Lexington on Pentonville Road plays host to a variety of bands and new acts in its retro American lounge bar. This autumn, up and coming London-based band Kidwave are on the roster. The band, led by Norwegian singer Lea Emmery, released their debut EP this year. Their distinctive sound has a dream pop and indie rock vibe, firmly influenced by 90s grunge, that will take you straight back to summer. Kid Wave @ The Lexington, 5 October thelexington.co.uk lyrics at The Lexington Run through time Set on an unassuming road near London Fields is one of the best ‘escape the room’ experiences on offer. Time Run is an epic journey through time and space to recover a lost artefact, pushing participants to escape a series of three locked rooms or be lost forever. The attention to detail in both the story and the epic set design, as well as comic and engaging performances by the actors, is what sets this experience apart. With just one hour to complete the mission, Time Run is genuinely exhilarating and will seriously test your powers of logic. Time Run, Tuesday to Sunday time-run.com WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI
  • 5. 8 The Linen Draper COVER STORY Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 2015 With more and more Londoners demanding high quality, ethically produced food, The Linen Draper spoke to some of the people changing the way the capital eats As every Londoner knows, some of the capital’s best food can be found in its street markets and independent shops. After all, why buy supermarket food that’s travelled halfway round the world when you can buy better food from local people who care about what they produce? Many Londoners prefer what’s on their plates to come from as close to home as possible. And they’re willing to pay that bit more to support local PHOTO: AMY CURRELL SET DESIGN: ALIKI KIRMITSI urban food fights back growers and producers if it means healthier, tastier food and a more ethical food system. So who are these small-scale, inner-city producers offering us an alternative to our supermarket- dominated food system? The Linen Draper took to the streets of north and east London to speak to some of the local people powering the capital’s growing urban food scene. 9
  • 6. 10The Linen Draper COVER STORY Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201511 Wildes Cheese Wildes Cheese, started in 2012 by owner Philip Wilton, grew from the desire to do something creative. After working as a management consultant for many years, Philip became restless and decided it was time to pack it all in. After looking into different products, Philip and his partner settled on cheese. “We thought for a long time about what we could make, looking into vodka, cake, beer and even jam. But we kept coming back to cheese. It’s something we love to eat so we thought, why not?” says Philip. After a year of learning the ropes, the first cheese, named ‘Burt’, went into production. By Philip’s own admission it was not up to scratch. “It quickly became clear that making cheese in the kitchen at home wouldn’t work and that we couldn’t make a business out of it,” he says. “So we got ourselves a commercial unit and kitted it out.” Their first cheese, a soft white variety called the Alexandra Palace, was ready to go to market in November 2012. This was after six months of testing and refining to get it just right. “I remember selling my first ever piece of cheese at Alexandra Palace Farmers’ Market. It was the first time anyone had given me money for my cheese. It was lovely to see people enjoying what I had made and taking an interest in who we were and what we did,” Philip recalls. Since then, Wildes Cheese has continued to grow and is now stocked in delis, restaurants and independent shops across London. For Philip, this is how the company will remain; a London-made product for the London market. Part of this is staying true to his Tottenham roots. “When we first discussed making cheese many people said to us ‘you can’t make cheese in Tottenham’. But why not in Tottenham? This is where we live, this is where our friends are and we are proud to live here,” he says. “We want to be a part of the area’s regeneration and put some commerce into the area. As far as we are concerned this is where we are and where we always will be.” This local identity has played a huge part in the company’s success and Philip has seen loyal customers continually return over the last few years. Philip believes this is all part of customers turning away from bland mass produced products and looking for quality, local alternatives. Philip is keen to point out that they are food producers, not manufacturers, and creativity will always be at the centre of what they do. “We try to create something new every month,” he says. “If you come along to see us at one of our weekly stalls, ask for the ‘Brian’. This is the generic name we give to a cheese that we are currently experimenting with. We make something different every time. You might not like it but we will always offer our customers something new and different every time they come and see us.” You can find Wildes Cheese’s products in markets and independent shops across London. wildescheese.co.uk “If you come along to see us at one of our weekly stalls, ask for the ‘Brian’” WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI SQUARE ROOT SODA The inspiration for Square Root’s handmade sodas came from the micro brewing industry. “You can go to a pub almost anywhere now and drink lovely handmade beers but they still just serve standard soft drinks,” says Square Root’s co-founder Robyn. “I thought we could do something more interesting and much tastier,” she says. Duly inspired, Robyn and her partner Ed began juicing at home, drawing on her skills as a chemistry graduate and Ed’s experience working as a brewer. Their first flavour was fresh ginger beer, which they sold from kegs at Harringay Farmers’ Market. Customers loved it and they soon added new flavours from fresh, seasonal produce. Before long they were using a 1920s tricycle, named Elsie, to deliver their sodas to local shops and delis. Square Root now operates from its own production space in Hackney and sells between nine and 12 thousand bottles of soda a week. “It’s suddenly become a monster,” says Robyn, laughing. The bedrock of their success according to Robyn is the fact that it’s “a real product”. The ingredients come from sustainable farms in the UK, so far as possible. Rhubarb is delivered straight from a farm in Yorkshire and one in Kent supplies all Square Root’s raspberries and blueberries. Most of the rest is bought at New Spitalfields Market. “People aren’t into an ingredients list where you don’t really know what any of it is, and it’s made in a factory where someone has just pressed a button,” says Robyn. “I think they like the story behind us and the fact that we do everything here ourselves. People are starting to respect that in the food industry.” So much so that this year Square Root won Best Drinks Producer at the BBC Food and Farming Awards. Not bad for a business that started just three years ago at Robyn and Ed’s kitchen table. They still sell their ginger beer, although rhubarb is hands down their most popular flavour, outselling the others two to one. Look out for their seasonal autumn soda, apple, and of course for Elsie, still delivering all over Hackney. Square Root sodas are available in independent shops throughout London. squarerootsoda.co.uk WORDS: SIMON MANUEL “People like the fact that we do everything ourselves”
  • 7. 12The Linen Draper COVER STORY Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201513 Mast Brothers chocolate growing comMunities Believe it or not, Hackney salad is a thing. It is grown in no less than 12 small market gardens situated in local parks and churchyards, and on estates and private land all over Hackney. Together these gardens make up the Patchwork Farm, the first organically certified food-growing land in London. The Patchwork Farm is run by Growing Communities, a Hackney- based not for profit organisation that is tackling our food system head on. “The current food system is flawed,” says Growing Communities’ Fiona McAllister. “It is damaging environmentally and socially, in terms of farmers not getting fair prices.” So how do you change a city’s feeding habits in the face of climate change and support local farmers at the same time? Growing Communities’ answer is simple. First, you buy sustainably grown food from small-scale farmers based close to London and distribute it locally. Secondly, you grow some of it yourself and train up a new generation of growers at the same time. Hence Hackney salad. “We’re working on the ground and doing practical things to change the food system,” says Fiona. “And we are creating local jobs. It’s all part of the social enterprise model.” As well as its Patchwork Farm, Growing Communities owns a two- acre farm 11 miles away in Dagenham that grows a wider variety of vegetables on a larger scale. Having a guaranteed market for the growers’ and local farmers’ produce is key, according to Fiona. Distribution of the food is through two community-led trading outlets: an organic fruit and vegetable bag scheme and the Growing Communities Farmers’ Market in Stoke Newington. The bag scheme has about 1,000 customers and Fiona says they are “super-proud” of their product. “It hasn’t had the same crazy distribution as conventional supermarkets,” she says. “It’s really fresh, comes from much closer and isn’t full of pesticides. We try to emphasise the environmental and social benefits ahead of the health benefits but it’s difficult to deny those health and taste benefits.” And Hackney salad could soon be about to reach a wider audience. It has just been nominated for an Urban Food award in the London Leaves category for “the sassiest salad and hoopiest herbs” grown in London. Growing Communities’ award-winning organic fruit and veg bag scheme has 14 collection points across Hackney. The Farmers’ Market takes place every Saturday at St Paul’s Church, Stoke Newington, N16 7UY. growingcommunities.org Brooklyn born and bred chocolate brand Mast Brothers opened in Shoreditch earlier this year bringing its craft chocolate philosophy to a new audience. Brothers Rick and Michael Mast started making chocolate in 2006 in their Brooklyn apartment, inspired by friends who were making their own craft food products. After some research, they started roasting cocoa beans and drying them out with a hairdryer or on the roof, before turning them into chocolate bars and selling them at local farmers’ markets. Nearly 10 years down the line, the company has two flagship stores and further plans to expand. So can this growing chocolate brand still be considered a craft company? Shoreditch manager Lani Kingston says: “All the chocolate sold in the store is made by our small team of 10 here in Shoreditch. We roast it, crack it, grind it and hand sort all the beans. We use traditional stone grinders like the Aztecs and Mayans would have used, which grind down the cacao nibs and the cane sugar to a really smooth texture, from which we make our bars. Currently we are producing around 1,500 a week but we aren’t yet at full capacity because some of our grinders are dedicated to experimental flavours.” The shop is an education. Most of the chocolate we eat today holds less than 10% cocoa. At Mast Brothers, the minimum cocoa percentage is 60%, while the darkest bar contains a whopping 76%. Mast Brothers is all about changing people’s perceptions of what chocolate should be and showing that it can be produced on a large scale but in an artisan way. This attention to detail even extends to the packaging, which is regularly changed for new flavour inspirations, making the shop look more like an art gallery than a chocolate shop. The window looking into the production room allows customers to see the chocolate makers at work and the smell of chocolate is mouth-wateringly good. “We take so much care in the whole process, everything is done by hand – it’s a minimum 40 days from bean to bar – that we feel the presentation should showcase this handmade and lovingly crafted product in the best way possible,” says Lani. “Our philosophy here in Shoreditch is the same as in Brooklyn, only with a British twist. Shoreditch is a place that we think really gets what we are trying to do.” Mast Brothers, 19-29 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, London E2 7DJ mastbrothers.com “Mast Brothers is all about changing people’s perceptions of what chocolate should be” “We’re doing practical things to change the food system” Buy anything you want... as long as it’s chocolate WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
  • 8. 14 The Linen Draper big house with a big heart The Big House is a Hackney-based charity founded in 2013 by theatre director Maggie Norris. It uses drama and theatre workshops to help care leavers overcome difficult childhoods and transition to adulthood. In 2014, after a 12-week course,15 young adults put on a new play, BABY/LON, at Hackney Downs Studio, based on the cast’s personal experiences. It ran for three weeks and received rave reviews. Tiernie Thompson, one of the members of that cast, told The Linen Draper about The Big House and its impact on her life “ My social worker got me involved with The Big House. I had left my foster home and had started getting into trouble. She knew I’d done drama in college and enjoyed it, so she sent me an email about The Big House but I refused to read it. Then Maggie got in contact and I arranged to meet her. Maggie told me about The Big House but first she wanted to hear about me. There was this vibe about her and as soon as I met her I felt like I knew her. I don’t really trust people easily but I had so much trust for her. So I told her my story. I had been in foster homes since I was 12 after social services found out about my mum’s drug problems. I can’t remember how many foster parents I had but I ran away about 10 times. Finally, I moved in with a foster carer in Broadstairs in Kent. When I left school I started studying Performing Arts at East Kent College but I fell out with my foster carer and came back to London. My foster carer had made me feel I couldn’t do things on my own. She told me I’d get depressed or commit suicide and I needed to stay with her to survive. But I thought I should find out for myself if I could cope or not. So I moved back to my mum’s in London and commuted to college for a year to finish my course. It killed me, it was an hour and a half train journey each way. And living back at my mum’s was stressful, as I had to stay under her roof, under her rules. When we met, Maggie invited me to one of the Saturday workshops. I was dreading it, I was so scared. During my teenage years I would just sit in my room and isolate myself, as I was full of anger and hate for the world. I worried about being with people my own age as I thought they would hate me and bully me. On the first Saturday, Maggie met me outside and took me into The Big House. Everyone was dancing and jumping around and having fun but I didn’t join in. I just moved into the corner and tried to make myself invisible. After that first workshop, Maggie asked me to come back the following Saturday. I wasn’t intending to go every week, I thought I’d go once so I could tell my social worker and she would leave me alone. But I went back to The Big House, and even though I didn’t want to admit it, I enjoyed it. One of the things we did was ‘circle time’ where we would talk about our life. No one else in college had been in care, but at The Big House no one had come from a perfect life, everyone had their own struggles. That ARTS AND CULTURE Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201515 brought us all together. I was shy at first but after a few workshops I settled in and started to accept these people into my life, which was really hard for me. One Saturday Maggie handed out rough scripts that Andy [The Big House’s playwright] had written and we did a read through of what would become BABY/LON. We went in every day for rehearsals and as Maggie had teamed up with the Job Centre it counted as work experience. I loved it, even though there was so much to remember. BABY/LON ran for three weeks. After every performance the crowd was cheering – it was a feeling you can’t describe. All that hard work we’d done had paid off with those claps and whistles. My mum and dad came and it was the first time I heard my dad say he was proud of me. I’ll always remember that night. I’ve now got a job at M&S and am auditioning for acting parts. Before Christmas I was in a Sam Smith video and I have also played a waitress in the BBC drama, Detectorists, with Mackenzie Crook. By the end of next year I want to be in a movie with Tom Cruise. If you don’t dream, you’re not going to get anywhere. Also, I’m setting up my own independent production company. If roles don’t come to me, I’m going to set up my own. I wouldn’t even be here today if it wasn’t for The Big House. I’m happy and stable now. I was in a really bad place and now I’ve found the end of the rainbow. The Big House gave me structure, commitment and friendships. Everyone I was with at The Big House is still a friend, in fact, they’re not even friends, they’re family. We all still talk and hang out. That’s what it gives you, a family. There are loads of people who need something like The Big House in their life. Every time someone goes into The Big House I see them leave with a smile and it makes me smile. There aren’t many places like it. You can go to drama school but they don’t give you the same support. The Big House treats you differently, with more respect. They acknowledge your background and they work with you through it. They also give you that extra support that you need, such as filling in CVs and applying for jobs. They helped me with my hostel as I had problems with benefits and paying rent because I wasn’t working. Now I live in my own flat – it’s nice having my own place. Maggie is a great woman, a guardian angel sent down to earth. If I hadn’t had Maggie and The Big House in my life, I can’t imagine my world right now.” The Big House is putting on True Man from 18 November to 12 December at Rio Cinema, 107 Kingsland High Street, E8. For ticket information go to thebighouse.uk.com “It was the first time I heard my dad say he was proud of me. I’ll always remember that night” “I was in a Sam Smith video and also played a waitress in the BBC drama, Detectorists, with Mackenzie Crook” BABY/LON was a huge success The Big House helped Tiernie Thompson turn her life around WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
  • 9.
  • 10. Elizabeth Wharf, London E14 Final release of four 3 bedroom family apartments Prices from £126,875 for a 25% share 85% SOLD 85% SOLD COMING SOON 75% SOLD Saffron Court, London E1 Six spacious 2 bedroom apartments, close to Brick Lane Prices from £136,719 for a 25% share Heath House, Isleworth TW7 A selection of eight contemporary 1 & 2 bedroom apartments Coming Soon Upton Village, London E13 A collection of 21, 1 & 2 bedroom apartments and nine 3 bedroom houses Prices from £142,500 for a 30% share of a 3 bedroom house Please contact our team on 020 7704 5618 or email affordablehomes@currell.com...and take your first step onto the property ladder with Shared Ownership         currell.com
  • 11. 20 The Linen Draper PROPERTY AND INTERIORS Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201521 SMALL SPACE BIG THINKING From the street, the appearance of this delightfully modern home is incredibly deceptive. The slim white façade, dotted with a series of small windows, hides an altogether larger interior. The property, by award-winning developers Noble House Properties, opens up as you walk through the narrow entrance into a light-filled open plan interior. Every inch of space has been used to maximum effect. The enclosed garden at the rear is a stunning feature that brings the garden inside all year round. Previously a garage and yard, extensive planning was required to reconfigure the unusual space into a three bedroom house that includes a cinema room. The Linen Draper takes a look at a modern De Beauvoir house that is deceptively large Alex Oliver, a director of Noble House, says: “Our aim was to create a modern, cutting-edge space using specialist materials and taking advantage of the natural light. The site is unusual as it is a narrow infill at the front, opening substantially at the rear, so it was important to make a statement of the narrow façade. This was the thinking behind the tiled frontage.” The result is a modern property that manages to both blend into the surrounding architecture while still marking itself out as unique. The house is in the De Beauvoir area of Islington, close to the boutiques, bars and restaurants of Upper Street and Essex Road. It is moments from Essex Road railway station and within easy reach of both Angel and Old Street underground stations. This three bedroom house is small on the outside, but large and bright on the inside “Our aim was to create a modern, cutting-edge space, taking advantage of the natural light” Northchurch Road is on the market for £1,350,000 All enquiries 020 7226 4200 currell.com WORDS:GINAWASIKOWSKI
  • 12. PROPERTY AND INTERIORS Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201523 As the nights start drawing in, keep your home feeling warm and looking bright with the latest lights from some of the best lighting designers in the business style watch Lighting 22 The Linen Draper Launched at Clerkenwell Design Week 2015 Launching at the London Design Festival 2015 Core pendant in Carrara marble, Single pendant, £125, Terence Woodgate terencewoodgate.com Tilt brass pendant lamp, from£340, Nyta nyta.eu w152 Busby LED lighting collection, coming soon to twentytwentyone twentytwentyone.com COSY COPPER Tidy tilts CORE CRAZY LED LIVING trendy Tripod WORDS: SALLY GRONDOWSKI Austin Collection at MADE, Table lamp, £49 Floor lamp, £79 Clustered ceiling pendant, £79 made.com Equipo Santa & Cole Collection at twentytwentyone Tripode G5 floor lamp, 1994, £415 GT6 pendant light, 1994, £255 Tripode G6 table lamp, 2002, £330 twentytwentyone.com
  • 13. currell.com Islington Sales: 020 7226 4200 Lettings: 020 7288 9109 islington@currell.com An impressive five-storey terraced Victorian property, refurbished to an exceptionally high standard. This spacious and beautifully presented home offers well-proportioned living space, with luxurious bathroom suites and spacious bedrooms, as well as an enclosed rear garden. Although modernised throughout, the restoration of original features has maintained the period charm of the property. Aubert Road is situated just off Highbury Grove and offers easy access to Highbury and Islington. EPC Rating: C Aubert Road, N5 £POA currell.com A rare opportunity to purchase a Grade II listed property on the renowned Wilmington Square in Bloomsbury. The property is currently configured into three flats, with original period features and scope to create a unique home. Conveniently located for easy access to Angel, Exmouth Market and the local shops of Amwell Street. Naoroji Street, WC1X £1,125,000 Leasehold Wilmington Square, WC1X £2,600,000 Freehold A two bedroom, two bathroom apartment with a large terrace set within the West City One development. Accommodation measures approximately 906sqft and further comprises an open plan kitchen, living room and dining room area. An expansive terrace can be accessed from both bedrooms. Underground parking available by separate negotiation. EPC Rating: B Clerkenwell 020 7253 2533 clerkenwell@currell.com
  • 14. Nestled in this quiet development is this beautiful two bedroom mews house, set over two floors. The property is stylishly finished with plenty of entertaining space and access to communal outdoor areas. Shore Mews is well located between the open spaces of both Victoria Park and London Fields, close to both Broadway Market and Victoria Park Village. EPC Rating: C Situated in a popular Victoria Park location is this substantial four-storey, mid-terrace Victorian house. The property has three bedrooms, including a grand master suite with dressing room and en-suite bathroom. There is a decked garden accessed from the kitchen diner, making it perfect for entertaining. Available now, part furnished. Victoria Park 020 3222 5555 victoriapark@currell.com Shore Mews, E9 £610,000 Share of Freehold Fremont Street, E9 £1,100 per week* currell.com *Tenancy fees apply. For more information visit www.currell.com/info/fees Hackney 020 7241 4111 hackney@currell.com An end of terrace period house located in the heart of London Fields. Located on a quiet residential street, this five bedroom family house is arranged over three levels, at just over 2,000sqft. Offering practical space with a mixture of contemporary fixtures and Victorian charm, the current owners have refurbished and extended the house. A rear enclosed garden is accessible from the large kitchen/diner. St Phillip’s Road offers easy access to the amenities of London Fields, Broadway Market, Dalston and Victoria Park. EPC Rating: D St Philip’s Road, E8 £1,850,000 Freehold currell.com
  • 15. FOOD AND DRINK 28 The Linen Draper Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201529 London’s answer to champagne When you think about smoked salmon, you are unlikely to think of an industrial warehouse in Fish Island. But that’s exactly where you will find H. Forman & Son, one of the country’s oldest and best smoked salmon producers, who have been plying their trade in east London for more than 100 years. The company was started in 1905 in Stepney Green by Harry Forman, a Russian immigrant who brought with him a knowledge of fish curing. Harry developed a special cure for the salmon he imported from Scotland and before long his client list included Fortnum & Mason and some of the top 5-star hotels in London. To this day, it is Harry’s ‘London Cure’ for which H. Forman & Son is famed. Lance Forman, current owner of the business and great-grandson of Harry, only joined the company in his early 30s but has always had the business in his blood. “I could slice a smoked salmon at the age of six,” he says. “Vacuum packed smoked salmon didn’t exist when I was young, all salmon had to be carved. Dad would bring home a whole side of salmon at the weekend and I would learn how to do it.” Lance has spent the past 17 years working to maintain the quality for which H. Forman & Son has become known, as well as trying to keep the East End tradition of smoking salmon alive. “There’s a common misconception that smoked salmon is a Scottish thing,” he says. “It isn’t, it’s a real East End trade. It is only since salmon farming was introduced on a large scale in the 70s and 80s that it has migrated up to Scotland because it’s closer to where the fish are. Even as late as the 70s there were around a dozen smokehouses in the East End. We are the last remaining one,” he says. So how is it that H. Forman & Son has survived where others have failed? “Our methods haven’t changed in over 100 years, we do things in a very traditional way” says Lance. “We don’t believe in using machines, everything is done by hand. This is why we are an artisan business because real skills are required to produce our salmon. “What a lot of other companies did was try to cut costs with new technology in order to compete. We have never compromised on the quality of the product in this way which is why I think we have survived,” he says. As well as maintaining the high quality of salmon that Forman’s customers have come to expect, Lance is anxious to educate people about what smoked salmon really is. “Smoked salmon in general has lost its way,” he says. “If you think back 15 years, there was respect for this product, it was seen as something special, the first gourmet food in the UK. Now, it is so readily available in supermarkets that people don’t understand what it should taste like because what mass producers supply is not smoked salmon in the traditional sense.” If the big supermarkets aren’t giving us the real deal then, what should we be getting? “Firstly, you aren’t supposed to taste smoke. The purpose of the smoke in the process is purely to preserve the fish. This is a technique that has been used for hundreds of years before we had the luxury of fridges. It is not to add flavour,” says Lance. “Most complaints I hear from people eating cheap salmon is that it leaves an unpleasant smoky aftertaste. The other is that the salmon is slimy. If salmon tastes slimy, this means it hasn’t been dried properly and has retained too much water. Smoked salmon should truly just taste of salmon and the curing process serves to enhance this taste,” he explains. To emphasise the quality of his product, Forman’s salmon has recently received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status – an award by the European Commission that protects and promotes named regional food products. This means Forman’s ‘London Cure Smoked Salmon’ now has the same status as champagne, and amazingly is the first London-based food to achieve this accolade. Lance hopes it will show people that salmon is a London product and one that the East End can proudly claim as its own. You can try H. Forman & Son’s award winning smoked salmon at their on-site restaurant, where you can also see the salmon curers at work. Or, visit their online shop formanandfield.com. H. Forman & Son, Stour Road, Fish Island, London E3 2NT Hackney’s H. Forman & Son has been celebrated for its smoked salmon for more than 100 years. The Linen Draper’s Gina Wasikowski met owner Lance Forman at the company’s Fish Island smokery to discover the secret of his family business’s success and hear about the award that puts Forman’s smoked salmon on a par with champagne “There’s a common misconception that smoked salmon is a Scottish thing. It isn’t, it’s an East End trade” Beetroot cured salmon at Forman’s restaurant All Forman’s smoked salmon is prepared by hand on site at its Fish Island premises Forman’s restaurant overlooks Stratford’s Olympic Stadium Salmon is still smoked using traditional artisan methods
  • 16. FOOD AND DRINK 30 The Linen Draper With gin back at the top of the capital’s cocktail menus nearly 300 years after it first took the city by storm, we spoke to Jonathan Clark, owner of the City of London Distillery (COLD), about his locally distilled gin and London’s rekindled passion for ‘mother’s ruin’ The first thing you notice when you descend the stairs into COLD’s speakeasy-style bar just off Fleet Street are two huge copper stills standing proudly behind a large sheet of glass. Given that this is the first distillery in the Square Mile for nearly 200 years, you can see why they would be put so prominently on display. Plus, they are beautiful, unusual looking pieces of machinery. “Meet Clarissa and Jennifer,” says COLD owner Jonathan Clark. “I had them made to measure in Germany. They’re named after the TV chefs, the Two Fat Ladies.” Jonathan set up COLD in 2012 on the site of what in Fleet Street’s heyday had been a drinking den humming with journalists. “Fleet Street had gone so I had to reinvent the place,” says Jonathan. “I had a new-found love of gin so I thought I’d put a distillery inside a bar. No one in England had done that before.” His timing couldn’t have been better. The UK is riding the wave of a new gin craze that has seen the number of distilleries rise from five to more than 35 in the last six years. Jonathan puts this down in part to the fact that people are always looking for something different. “Also, I don’t really like the name ‘craft’ gin but I think people buy into how it is made and the botanicals [the ingredients used to give gin its flavour], as well as the history behind the gin,” he says. Jonathan is keen to keep the recipes for his gins, all of which are made in Clarissa and Jennifer, a closely guarded secret. But he is more than happy to show me a giant GIN is the new black cauldron of sloes that have been marinating “for a while”. He won’t be more precise. He then puts me to a taste test of his City of London Sloe Gin against one of its rivals. His is a deeper red colour and is richer and smoother tasting even to an undiscerning gin drinker like myself. “That won Outstanding Silver at the International Wine and Spirit competition,” says Jonathan. “Out of 26 gins we got the highest award in the country.” John is hoping for further accolades following the recent appointment of Tom Nichol, former master distiller of Tanquery Gin, as a consultant distiller. He sees this as a big coup for a small distiller. “I’m doing 25,000 bottles a year now, which is small, but that will increase with Tom on board.” Together they have created a new gin, called the Sir Christopher Wren, to go alongside his sloe gin, Dry Gin (best for G&Ts), higher-proof one-shot Square Mile gin and an Old Tom gin made for the Dorchester Hotel. The new gin goes on sale at the end of October and will be the only one Tom makes in the UK. COLD also runs tours and a Gin Lab Experience where visitors can mix the botanicals, distill their own bottle of gin and design their own label. It is a far cry from the days when gin was distilled in virtually every building in the City but it matters to Jonathan. “We are now the only distillery in the City of London and heritage is everything, absolutely everything.” COLD is offering Gin Lab Experiences to two readers chosen by him who can correctly answer this question: “What type of still is Clarissa?” Answers to gill@cityoflondondistillery.com. More details about COLD can be found at cityoflondondistillery.com “We are now the only distillery in the City of London and heritage is everything, absolutely everything” WORDS: SIMON MANUEL
  • 17. City of London Distillery Millionaire Cocktail 32 The Linen Draper Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201533 Method 1. Start by prepping the vegetables: deseed the pepper and then finely shred it, and the mange tout, into thin strips; finely chop the spring onions, carrot ginger, red chilli, lemongrass and coriander. 2. Cut the pak choi in half, drizzle a little oil over it and roast in the oven for 4‐5 minutes until it starts to soften but is still crispy on the outside. Keep warm. 3. Heat some sesame oil in a wok, add all the vegetables and stir‐fry; you still want a little crispiness to the vegetables. Add the beansprouts and coriander and stir. Fry for a further couple of minutes. Keep warm. 4. Place the marinated black cod on a baking tray and cook in the oven at 210C for about 12 minutes. You want a nice charred effect on the cod. 5. To serve, put the stir‐fry vegetables on a plate, then place the cod on the vegetables, skin side down. Garnish with the roasted pak choi and drizzle a little of the miso sauce over the top. 4x portions of black cod in miso (purchased from Forman & Field) 250g beansprouts 200g mange tout 1x red pepper 1⁄2 bunch spring onions 100g ginger 2 sticks of lemongrass 1x red chilli 1⁄2 bunch coriander 1x carrot 2 heads of pak choi Sesame oil This version of the recipe made famous by Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa comes from Forman & Field’s chef Matthew Smith. It is perfect for entertaining friends, tastes great served with oriental stir fry vegetables and couldn’t be simpler to make Roasted Black Cod in Miso Ingredients (Serves 4) formanandfield.com FOOD AND DRINK What does the future hold for children like Kieran? 020 7288 6941 islingtongiving.org.uk Opportunity in Islington Did you know that 34% of children in Islington are living in poverty? Or that Islington has a higher proportion of 16 to 18 years olds not in employment, education or training than the national and London averages? Look beyond the leafy affluence and you will find lots of disadvantaged young people in Islington who simply want to make a better life for themselves. To get involved. To make a difference. We fund local organisations to provide the activities that young people want and need. So that they can have fun, build confidence and social skills, promote healthy living and connect to new opportunities. If you want to help kids like Kieran grasp a better future, right here on your doorstep, get in touch. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and pour in all the ingredients. Shake well and then strain into a cocktail glass. Serve. The City of London Distillery bar has the feel of a Prohibition-era drinking den so it is appropriate that the cocktail it recommends dates back to that time. There are a variety of Millionaire Cocktails around but this recipe is based on the classic one in The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock, first published in 1930 20ml of City of London Sloe Gin 20ml Apricot Liqueur 20ml Rum 20ml Lime Juice 10ml Grenadine DRINK LIKE A MILLIONAIRE Ingredients cityoflondondistillery.com
  • 18. A FAIRER WAY TO BUY Food Haggerston Food Assembly enables lovers of good food to cut out the middle man and buy direct from local farmers and producers. The Linen Draper talked to organiser of the assembly Becks Scurlock about her passion for high-quality, local produce What is the Haggerston Food Assembly? Haggerston Food Assembly is a weekly food market, where people buy food directly from producers and farmers. Any produce sold has to be sourced from within 150 miles of Haggerston. Broadly speaking, the Food Assembly is a movement of people creating a better and fairer food system. 34 The Linen Draper How did it start? Food Assembly was set up in France in 2011 and quickly spread across Europe. It launched in the UK in the summer of 2014, which is when we heard about it. We have always been interested in high-quality, local food and knew that in Haggerston there would be an appetite for this kind of thing, so we signed up. Why did you think it would work in Haggerston? As Haggerston residents ourselves, we had become frustrated with the lack of quality food available in local shops. We were limited to Tesco, convenience stores or a long walk to Shoreditch or Dalston. We sensed an opportunity to bring together some of the amazing small food and drinks producers in Hackney and make their stuff available locally at a time when the community is growing and demand is increasing. So how do people go about buying food from the Food Assembly? There are three simple steps to buying from the Food Assembly: 1. Register online as a member (see details below). 2. Select the food you want to buy before the online shop closes on Sunday evening. 3. Pick the food up the following Tuesday between 7 and 8.30pm at the Proud Archivist on Hertford Road, N1. Why is this way of shopping ‘better and fairer’? Firstly, the assembly takes the anonymity out of shopping by connecting the producer with the consumer. Secondly, there is no waste because the farmer knows exactly how much to deliver in advance of the assembly. The average distance of a meal made with Food Assembly produce is 27 miles, compared to 90,000 for a typical supermarket meal. This has a huge impact on the environment. Finally, it is better economically for the producers as on average they get 83.3% of the sale price compared to 10% at mainstream supermarkets. What are your roles as the local hosts for the Food Assembly? It’s our responsibility to manage the weekly sale, organise events, market the Frustration at the lack of good quality local food shops spurred Becks and Theo to set up Haggerston Food Assembly in 2014 Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201535 assembly to the local community and find the venue. As hosts, we receive an 8% commission on products sold. How do you source producers? There are a few basics that each assembly has to provide such as, meat, fish, bread, and fruit and vegetables. Beyond that, each host is free to identify other producers and farmers that diversify their range. We are always on the lookout for interesting, well-crafted products that we can get excited about and enjoy. We also try to find producers that are very close to Hackney. How many producers have you currently got signed up, and what kind of products do they sell? We currently have 15 producers on board, with more to come later in the year. We have a real range of products on offer including biodynamic fruit and eggs from Brambletye Farm in Sussex; British quinoa, beans and pulses from Hodmedod’s in Suffolk and organic vegetables from Brockmans in Kent. Local producers include: Cobble Lane Cured, an Islington based charcuterie, Square Root, who make handmade sodas, brewers Signature Brew, and Barnes & Webb, urban beekeepers. All these producers are passionate about providing quality produce. How many members do you currently have? We have nearly 1,000 members and that number is steadily growing. Members of the Food Assembly can join up to three assemblies in London or beyond if they wish, so not all 1,000 members will be local to Haggerston. But we’ve worked out that nearly one in three people that have signed up as members have made a purchase with us. Is there a typical customer profile? Our customers come from all walks of life: retirees, bankers, graphic designers, Hackney born and bred to Californian, Irish and Kazakhstani. There’s no obvious pattern. The thing that binds our customers is a love of good food, a frustration with the monopoly of the supermarkets and the relative exclusivity of the established food markets (e.g Broadway, Borough) which are often difficult for smaller producers to access. Why do you think promoting small and local producers is so important? It’s important because it reconnects people with the food that they’re eating, which is lost when buying household brands from supermarkets. There is such an amazing array of talent and creativity that often doesn’t have a fair route to market. Food Assembly provides a platform to those producers. Their produce comes with a story and is the result of a lot of hard work and passion for what they are doing. It’s great to give them and the customers the chance to share that experience. Haggerston Food Assembly takes place from 7pm on Tuesdays at the Proud Archivist, 2-10 Hertford Road, London, N1 5ET. To register with Haggerston Food Assembly go to thefoodassembly.com “The produce comes with a story and is the result of a lot of hard work and passion for what they are doing” Suppliers to the Food Assembly typically receive 83.3% of the sale price of produce sold compared to just 10% at most supermarkets LIFESTYLE WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI
  • 19. LIFESTYLE 36 The Linen Draper Issue 02 Autumn/Winter 201537 The NSPCC Islington Branch Literary lunch with of Us, One Day, The Understudy and Starter For Ten Kindly sponsored by JD Law DATE: Wednesday 14 October 2015 TIME: 12:00–14.30 VENUE: Almeida Restaurant, Almeida Street, Islington, N1 1AD TICKETS COST £45 Please contact Alison: 020 7226 7738 alison@samuel-family.co.uk Standing in a white jacket and apron, knife in hand, isn’t my usual start to a Tuesday morning. Today, however, is going to be a bit different. I’ve made a trip to MEAT in Stoke Newington, to sharpen up my butchery skills. I meet Paul Grout, co-owner and long-time butcher, to chat through the requirements for becoming a top class butcher. Fortunately, according to Paul, no essential skills are required. Excellent! “I mean being skilled with your hands is an obvious requirement,” says Paul. Ah. “But really,” Paul continues, “more than anything it’s about the will to want to do it. If you don’t try to get better then you won’t; it’s as simple as that. Butchery is all about learning at your own pace. It could take some people weeks to learn one skill and someone else months. It Independent butcher MEAT sources quality produce from across the UK. MEAT’s co- owner Paul Grout is determined to put meat we can trust onto our plates,and to educate people about the skilled art of butchery doesn’t matter as long as you keep trying.” So don’t give up. I can do that. But is being a woman a hindrance in this traditionally male dominated trade? “It’s not like it used to be,” says Paul. “Obviously a lot of the role is incredibly heavy lifting but there’s no reason why a woman can’t do that. It would be sexist to say a woman couldn’t carry a 20kg side of beef. Nor could I! Women are as capable as men in this trade.” With these words ringing in my ears I meet Troy, the head butcher at MEAT who has kindly offered to give me a one- on-one masterclass. There is no messing about, we jump straight into boning a shoulder of lamb right on the shop floor. Firstly, the spine has to be removed, which thankfully no longer has a head attached. It’s quite simple according to Troy – follow the line of the bone and don’t push the knife in too far. I watch him do one side and try to mimic him on the other. My line ends up being rather shaky with varying degrees of depth in the cut but I just about get away with it. Once the spine is removed it’s on to the remainder of the shoulder bone. The key lesson here is: follow the bone. The main problem is that I’m not entirely sure what is bone and what is meat. Forty minutes later this confusion leaves me with a slightly hacked piece of lamb sitting in front of me. To make it worse, Troy can bone a shoulder of lamb perfectly in around 30 seconds. Clearly I have some way to go. Butchery inefficiency aside, I am keen to know more about the lamb itself, and where it came from, before it unknowingly became my next meal. “Our lambs are Colne Valley and Dorset Down breeds, our beef is from “I can look my customers in the eye and assure them about where the meat comes from” the Scottish Highlands and our pigs are from the South Downs where they literally roam around free range; all from quality British farmers,” says Paul. “We have great relationships with our suppliers and I can look my customers in the eye and assure them about where the meat comes from, the food they eat and the life they lived. Yes, this costs the customer more, but people are willing to pay for better, honest products.” At the end of my masterclass I have a shoulder of lamb worth £21 tied up THE KNIVES ARE OUT and ready to take home to expectant dinner party guests. It might not look as nice as Troy’s but it’s not half bad. Knowing I can trust the provenance of the meat 100% makes it even better and with all ten fingers still attached, it feels like a triumph. MEAT offers a variety of butchery masterclasses in the shop at 104 Stoke Newington Church St, N16 0LA. For more information visit meatlondon.co.uk MEAT stocks only the finest quality produce from British farmers WORDS: GINA WASIKOWSKI Head butcher Troy puts Gina to work boning a lamb shoulder MEAT also sells wine, cheese and deli products
  • 20. Currell Chartered Surveyors, 309 Upper Street, Islington, London N1 2TU 020 7354 5050  commercialagency@currell.com  currell.com RICS VALUATIONS    LEASE ADVISORY    COMMERCIAL AGENCY    INVESTMENT    DEVELOPMENT CONSULTANCY                        I’m standing on a towpath next to an industrial estate. In front of me is the muddy grime of the river Lea. Behind me, Amazon’s gigantic distribution centre. Across the water I can see the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. I’ve come foraging for wild food with guide John Rensten. Surely a less promising place to unleash my inner hunter-gatherer would be hard to find? Not according to John. “Turn on your green vision and start seeing things,” he encourages his group Why buy food when you can pick it straight out of the ground? The Linen Draper sent Simon Manuel foraging for his dinner LONDON AS A LARDER of 30 urban foragers. I look around and spot an empty Heineken can, some weeds and a few straggly bits of scrub. My shoes look more edible. But for John, it is like walking into a giant larder. Within seconds he has picked out Hoary Mustard (a member of the cabbage family), Fat Hen (a type of wild spinach) and Sea Buckhorn (whose small orange berries are good with cheese, and for making jams and cordials). John’s enthusiasm is infectious: “Compared to what you usually eat, eating wild food is like turning the volume up,” he says. Soon, we are all at it, munching away on bits of leaf, twig and the odd berry. Some of it tastes only vaguely like food but John is keen to point out that “nature is not a supermarket. You need to pick stuff at the right time and the window of ripeness for any particular food may only be a few days.” John is an engaging teacher as he describes the virtues of Rose Hip (seven times the vitamin C of oranges) and Ribwort Plantain (a superfood whose tiny heads have as much fibre as a bowl of porridge). He explains how one of the keys to foraging is being able to identify plants as they change and grow. “It’s a lovely slow, multi-layered learning process,” he says. “It’s like the reverse of the Internet. The information isn’t readily available, it comes gradually with repeated visits.” With that he wanders off toward the banks of the river and plucks out a plant with parsley-shaped leaves and a strange umbrella-like flower on top. “This is Hemlock Water Dropwort, the most poisonous plant in Britain,” says John. “The amount in my hand would be enough to kill you. It would be a slow, agonising death.” I find myself staring anxiously at my feet as if being told off by a teacher in case I’d even thought about eating it. My shoes are looking tastier by the second. It has been a fascinating few hours but maybe foraging isn’t for me after all. The event was put on by Create London as part of a project being delivered by the London Legacy Development Corporation to promote The Leaway, a new route that will connect the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park to the Royal Docks and the river Thames. Details of foraging walks and courses run by John Rensten can be found at foragelondon.co.uk John identifies Britain’s most dangerous plant (top); the fruits of our labours (above); urban and ready to forage (right) “The amount in my hand would be enough to kill you” LIFESTYLE 38 The Linen Draper PHOTOS: EMIL CHARLAFF WORDS: SIMON MANUEL