FAIRNESS CREAM FORMULATIONS PHARMACOGNOSY DATA FOR HERBAL COSMETICS, IT CONSISTS OF THE DATA ABOUT THE SKIN AND THE FORMULATION OF THE FAIRNESS CREAMS AND THEIR EVALUATION AND EFFECTS

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FAIRNESS CREAMS

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GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
SKIN
Skin is the outer covering of the body which serve to protect the
body against:
• Physical and chemical injury
• Control loss of body water
• Maintaining the body temperature
• Provide defense against infectious organisms

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GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
Exposing the skin to various factors, including
• Environmental
• Workplace
• Chemicals
• Pollution
• Smoke
• Microorganisms
• Aggressive and potentially irritating cleansing
• Antiaging regimens and
• Extreme temperature
May cause skin abnormalities and dermatological
disorders
SKIN

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GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
COMPOSITION OF THE SKIN
Skin consists : upper layer - epidermis
: lower layer - dermis.
Melanin is the primary determinant of skin color,
which is located on the basal layer of epidermis.
SKIN TYPES
Skin can be grouped based on
Sebum (oil) levels – Sebum is the oil secreted by the skin.
Normal Skin, Dry Skin, Oily Skin –
• lesser the sebum drier the skin;
• greater the sebum more oily is the skin.
Complexion/ Colour – Fair, Whitish, Dark
The color is determined by the amount of Melanin present in one’s skin;
• Fairer the skin lesser the melanin,
• Darker the skin greater the melanin
SKIN

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
WHAT DOES THE SKIN WHITENING/LIGHTENING CREAM DO?
Fairness creams contain agents that act by decreasing melanin synthesis
thus modifying physiological systems.
They therefore tend to:
• Lighten the Skin
• Depigment the Skin by:
• destroying Melanocytes
• Inhibit Tyrosinase activity
• inhibit formation of Melanin
• Reducing the Production of Melanin
• Affecting the Formation of Tyrosinase

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
Skin whitening, skin lightening and skin bleaching ingredients –
Synthetic & Natural:
Synthetic Ingredients that help in skin lightening:
• Tretinoin: effective in treating skin discolorations
• Hydroquinone: inhibiting melanin production
• Arbutin: inhibiting melanin production
• Kojic acid: inhibiting melanin production
• Azelaic acid: skin discolorations
• Vitamin C: effective antioxidant
• Alpha hydroxy acids: inhibiting melanin production
• Niacinamide: It promotes acne reduction, increases skin moisture,
and reduces fine wrinkles.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
HERBAL / NATURAL INGREDIENTS – EXTRACTS:
Licorice,
Pomogranate,
 Saffron,
Aloevera,
Manjistha,
Cucumber,
Papaya,
Milk,
Curd
Lemon oil,
Grape seed,
Rose, Lemon,
Olive,
Berries,
turmeric,
Wheat germ,
Tulsi,
Lotus,
Jasmium,
Sandalwood,
Walnut, etc.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
FAIRNESS
FORMULATIONS

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
INTRODUCTION
Skin-lightening cosmetics are in big demand across Asia
Definition of fair skin: “not dark and free from spots, dirt or imperfection;
unblemished, clean and pure.
Ranging from that of Cleopatra (soaking in donkey milk that is rich in AHA)
to
the recent advances in skin-lightening procedures such as
 dermabrasion
 ultrasound, and
 laser therapies

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
skin-lightening agents are any ingredient or combination of ingredients
that interfere in any step of the melanogenesis pathway or melanin
transfer, that results in lowering pigmentation on the surface of the
skin.
There are many reports of skin-lightening agents obtained from both
natural and synthetic sources.
Many ingredients in their original form may not be compatible in
cosmetic formulations for application to the skin due to various factors
such as
• cytotoxicity,
• insolubility,
• instability, and
• their sensitive nature to external conditions.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
CLASSIFICATION OF SKIN-LIGHTENING INGREDIENTS
Skin-lightening ingredients can also be classified by their source.
◦ Chemical tyrosinase inhibitors (hydroquinone)
◦ Botanicals (essentially from plants and algae)
◦ Anti-oxidants
◦ Vitamins—A, B, C, E
◦ Peptides
◦ Alpha and beta hydroxyl acids and derivative

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
THE EFFICACY OF SKIN-LIGHTENING FORMULATIONS
Formulations for skin lightening have been majorly based on
o/w emulsions.
Recently gel-based formulations are being considered for
suitability in certain skin types.
Efficacy studies are carried out through clinical trails.
Some of the techniques used involve the use of the
◦ mexameter,
◦ chromameter,
◦ spectrophotometer, along with dermatologist assessment.
other skin parameters such as
◦ moisturization,
◦ texture,
◦ barrier integrity, pH, et,

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
COMPOSITION OF CREAM BASE
Stearic acid -10%
Cetyl alcohol -2%
Almond oil-4%
Glycerol-3%
Methyl paraben-0.02%
Triethalamine-qs
Water -qs

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
PREPARATION OF CREAM BASE
Oil in water (O/W) emulsion-based cream (semisolid formulation) was
formulated.
The emulsifier (stearic acid) and other oil soluble components (Cetyl
alcohol, almond oil) were dissolved in the oil phase and heated to 75° C.
The preservatives and other water soluble components (Methyl paraban,
Propyl paraban, Triethanolamine, Propylene glycol) were dissolved in the
aqueous phase and heated to 75° C.
After heating, the aqueous phase was added in portions to the oil phase
with continuous stirring until cooling of emulsifier took place

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
EVALUATION OF CREAM
pH of the Cream
The pH meter was calibrated using standard buffer solution.
About 0.5g of the cream was weighed and dissolved in 50.0 ml of distilled water and
its pH was measured
Viscosity
Viscosity of the formulation was determined by Brookfield Viscometer at 100 rpm,
using spindle no 7.
Dye test
The scarlet red dye is mixed with the cream.
Place a drop of the cream on a slide and examines it under a microscope.
If the disperse globules appear red the ground colourless.
The cream is o/w type.
The reverse condition occurs in w/o type cream i.e. the disperse globules appear
colourless in the red ground.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
Homogeneity
The formulations were tested by visual appearance and by touch.
Appearance
The appearance of the cream was judged by its color, pearlscence and
roughness and graded
After feel
Emollience, slipperiness and amount of residue left after the application of
fixed amount of cream was checked
Removal
The ease of removal of the cream applied was examined by washing the
applied part with tap water.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
ACID VALUE
Take 10 gm of substance dissolved in accurately weighed, in 50 ml
mixture of equal volume of alcohol and solvent ether, the flask was
connected to reflux condenser and slowly heated, until sample was
dissolved completely, to this 1 ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated
with 0.1N NaOH, until faintly pink colour appears after shaking for 30
seconds
Acid value = n*5.61/w
n - number of ml of NaOH required, w - weigh of substance.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
SAPONIFICATION VALUE
Introduce about 2 gm of substance refluxed with 25 ml of 0.5 N alcoholic KOH for 30
minutes, to this 1 ml of phenolphthalein added and titrated immediately, with 0.5 N
HCL.
Saponification value = (b-a)*28.05/w
a - volume in ml of titrant, b - volume in ml of titrant, w - weigh of substance in gm.
IRRITANCY TEST
Mark an area (1sq.cm) on the left hand dorsal surface. The cream was applied to the
specified area and time was noted.
Irritancy, erythema, edema, was checked if any for regular intervals up to 24 hrs and
reported.

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FAIRNESS CREAMS
GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
ACCELERATED STABILITY TESTING
Accelerated stability testing of prepared formulations was conducted for 2
most stable formulations at room temperature, studied for 7 days.
They were formulation number 4 and 5 at 40 oC ± 1 oC for 20 days.
The formulations were kept both at room and elevated temperature and
observed on 0th, 5th, 10th, 15th and 20th day for the following
parameters

21. GOWTHAMRAJ SAKTHIVEL, M.Pharm (Pharmacognosy)
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RC
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