1. JapaneseSalon
Beauty lives here
September 2013
Ombre it
Why its here to stay
Master Class
Tips and Tricks with
Ted Gibbson &
Tabatha Coffey
Learning
Hair Design
With Raymond Fung
2. FEATURES:
104 Shining Stars
The Paul Mitchell Creative Team gets
glossy and glamorous.
108 Frame Work
Aveda Concept Salon Gary Manuel Pres-
ents Yeilding Structure.
112 Power Dressing
Brit Hair guru Sean Tetlow offers up strong
ailhouettes.
DEPARTMENTS:
46 Stargazing
The 50’s- inspired ‘dos of
populaire.
52 Better Business
Salons give back; Dermalogica’s
revamped website; PBA insight.
60 Ombre it
why ombre is here and here to stay.
66 In Studio
Tokyo runway hair and regal do’s
68 Headmasters
A focus on organic salon systems
with Sho Yamomoto
70 Fashion Plates
twists ruled the Tokyo runways
with Anna Kanji
86 Stylie File
This seasons fall collections by Kai
Hiroki Head Brain Salon
100 Consultation Perfection
Perfect the art of a percise 15
minute consultation with Ishida
Toma
IN EVERY ISSUE:
36 Japanese Online
40 Publisher’s Note
42 Editor’s Note
44 Cover Look
118 Show Biz
124 The Wire
136 Last Word
CELEBRATE
On page 78, We
commemorate the
25th anniversary
of Shades EQ
60
82
86
109
112
Contents September 2013
32 Japanese Salon September 2013
6. Learning Hair Design
The new hair design learning system that is sweeping the nation of Japan
and the man behind the chair Raymond Fung.
7. The hair design process:
This design process begins before any haircut-
ting procedures. My books outlines the process
of designing haircuts, including all of the haircuts
demonstrated in these books. I hope by the end
of each book, you will recognize the existence and
importance of hair design. These books were solely
created to illustrate haircutting procedures, and to
demonstrate how different haircutting systems are
created by combining different haircutting ap-
proaches, concepts, techniques and tools to con-
struct, execute and deliver haircuts.
My books are not meant to teach you how to
cut hair, introduce you to cool new haircuts, or ask
you to follow pictures to duplicate the haircuts in
this book. Rather, they were created to help you
learn to create your own approaches, concepts,
techniques and tools to deliver any haircut; this is
what I have been practicing since I first discovered
hair design, and this practice continuously evolves
and improves my haircuts and the way I cut hair.
What is Hair Design and why Draw:
Hair design is about understanding hair design
elements and principles, as well as knowing how to
draw hair diagrams. It is more than deciding which
one of your signature haircuts will best suit your
client. Hair-diagram drawing is the only tool that
can help you learn and master hair design. If you
can draw it, you can cut it. It is the sign language
and shorthand of hair design, and can help you un-
derstand why and what you do, in addition to how
you do it. Hair design is also about improving the
way you learn and teach haircuts and haircutting;
for this reason, it can strengthen salons’ in-house
training program and hairdressers’ skills. Creating
a custom designed haircut involves both the hair
design process and haircutting procedures, which
work together to create a cut to fit
each individual client, according to the client’s
wants and needs.
Hair design can help you to evolve and improve
the way you cut hair as well as discover new hair-
cuts on a daily basis. Once you start learning hair
design, you can stop learning one haircut at a time,
and begin creating any haircut you want. Master-
ing hair design means you no longer have to copy
haircuts or cut them by following steps— this is
what allows you to start being a hair designer. Once
you begin drawing hair diagrams, you will start
sharpening your creative and competitive edges by
improving your creativity, consistency, accuracy
and efficiency in haircutting. If you want to master
your craft, your financial future and be one of the
great hairdressers in your town and beyond, learn-
ing hair design may be your answer.
Above: A pixie haircut designed by Raymond Fung
from his new book Learning Hair Design.
Need a Haircut?
Raymond Fung can be found
instructing, mentoring future
industry professionals and creating
beautifly design cuts for clients in
his New Canaan Salon Image Design
Group Location on 111 Elm Street.
September 2013 Japanese Salon 110
8. 111 Japanese Salon September 2013
Who is Raymond?
His name is ray fung, and he has been a hair-
dresser since 1987. In 1993, opened his own pri-
vate hair studio in New Canaan, Connecticut. He
has invested in advanced haircutting classes since
1996 and attended numerous major academies
and trade shows to become more knowledgeable
and improve my skills. During that time, he found
himself always drawing hair diagrams, and before
he knew it, he had boxes of them.
Years of drawing made me understand more and
more about how to create, construct and design
haircuts; it allowed me to take time to think about
what I did in cutting hair on daily basis. Every
time I got off from work, I would sit down and
draw most, if not all, of the haircuts I did that day.
I started to understand more and more about how
to create new haircuts, as well as how to document,
remember, improve and evolve the haircuts I was
doing. In addition to that, I started to understand
all of the haircuts I saw in the advanced training
classes. In order to learn hair design, hairdressers
have to recognize and understand all of the hair
design elements. It is these elements that make up
the different components to construct haircuts.
Different selections of elements create different
components.
Different components put together can create
a different set of patterns of haircuts. Within each
pattern, there is a certain number of options you
can choose to use to create different shape, form
and balance of haircuts. Do not expect to learn hair
design over-night or simply by attending classes.
It requires you to read, study and think about all
of the hair design diagrams intensively, so that you
can start drawing hair diagrams.
If you take your time to dissect and analyze each
page of hair design diagrams included in this book,
you will begin to understand more and more about
how to use the hair design elements to plan, con-
struct and create haircuts within and beyond
your imagination. The more you draw hair design
diagrams, the more you can explore, discover and
invent new haircuts and new ways of haircutting.
Once you have mastered hair design, you will know
how to custom design haircuts to suit each individ-
ual client, and customize each haircut to perfection.
How to custom-design haircuts?
Designing haircuts to fit each individual client
is based on the information hairdressers collect
from clients, by getting the answers to the following
questions:
1. How much shorter do they want their hair?
2. How many inches do they want the length to be
cut?
3. Are they happy with their previous haircut?
When was the last time they had their last haircut?
What do they like or dislike about it?
“I found myself always drawing hair diagrams, and before I knew
it, I had boxes of them. Years of drawing made me understand more
and more about how to create, construct and design haircuts”
9. September 2013 Japanese Salon 112
4. Do they want the same haircut, a trim to clean
up the dead ends, or something different?
5. If they want to change, what kind of change and
how much change do they want?
6. Do they want to grow their hair longer, maintain
the same length or cut it (much) shorter?
7. Which part(s) of their existing haircut do they
dislike the most, if any?
8. What is the main reason they want a haircut? Is
it because their hair starts to become too long and
too flat ?
9. Do they know how to style their own hair? Are
they handy with styling tools? Do they use any hair
products on their hair to style?
10. Are they fashionable, wild and stylish? Or are
they simple, classy and conservative?
11. How many dead ends or how damaged is their
hair?
12. Do they have a long-term goal for their hair-
cuts, and if they do, what is it?
13. How much layer do they want? Long, medium,
short, or anything in between?
14. Will their hair texture allow them to have a lot
of layering?
15. Do they like volume or do they prefer their hair
to lie flat?
16. If they want graduation, what kind of gradua-
tion will make them happy?
17. If they want one length, a bunt cut or a bob, do
they want the front longer, the same or shorter?
18. What do they like and dislike, fear and desire
about their haircuts?
19. What kind of facial features, head shape, bone
structure, neck shape, shoulder size, body height
and shape do they have?
20. What kind of hair do they have? What are their
hair texture (natural or chemically altered), hair
distribution, growth pattern, cowlick, hairline,
thickness and density?
21. What kind of job, profession or lifestyle do they
have? What image do they want to project?
How can hair design change the
mentality of hairdressers?
Design, by definition, requires designers to
work with their clients to come up with an idea
for a design that will make clients happy. Usually,
clients commission one particular designer out of
others because they believe in that person’s knowl-
edge, skill, creativity, style and experience to deliver
the result they anticipate. There is a hair design
process before starting any haircutting procedure,
and I would like to explain to you how the process
works in designing haircuts, including all of the
haircuts demonstrated in this book
Image Design Group Salon, New Canaan CT
10. There is a hair design process before starting any
haircutting procedure, and I would like to explain
to you how the process works in designing hair-
cuts, including all of the haircuts demonstrated in
this book. I always try not to give whatever hair-
cuts I want to my clients, even though they are my
models, I still have to work with them to come up
with haircuts we both like, as well as to make sure
all of my haircuts can draw attention, so that they
can bring me more new clients… the bottom line
of the business!
Before I cut anybody’s hair, including all of
my models’, I practice observation, analysis and
consultation every single time. I treat all of my
established clients as though I have just met them
because I try to forget any haircuts I may have giv-
en them previously, so I can look at them and their
hair from a whole new perspective. Besides, I like
to use my brain to create and I love changes.
I also try to give clients a different haircut every
time I see them, and to deliver each haircut in a
different way. Clients’ hair, desires and personal
preferences may be different each time they return
for haircuts, so we cannot do the same thing again
and again without looking to make changes! Fur-
thermore, the fact that we are in a fashion business
demands us to be creative, spontaneous and unpre-
dictable by breaking rules, changing formulas and
equations, as well as ignoring steps, procedures and
systems from time to time!
On top of that, hairdressers have to make sure
their haircuts are different or eye-catching enough
to bring them new clients through word-of-mouth.
Therefore, hairdressers have to make sure clients
look great anytime and anywhere by themselves in
order to succeed, and that means hairdressers have
to educate and train clients, so that clients can take
care of and style their own hair no matter where
they are.
Clients will not be their best advertisement if
clients look good only by paying for it, because
their hairstyles can be ruined if they are caught in
the rain, humidity and sweat. Hairdressers should
train their clients to be hairdressers of their own
hair, so they can style and refresh their hair beau-
tifully everyday, so people will stop them and ask
“Who does your hair?”
If hairdressers believe they are artists sculpting
hair, the chance they can create a piece of art, if
not a masterpiece, is higher. Also, if they think that
other hairdressers will come across their clients’
hair to check or even criticize, they would become
very careful to make sure they give their best shot
in every haircut and pay more attention to detail.
In order not to be embarrassed or humiliated, they
will push themselves harder to give better haircuts.
Therefore, the mentality of hairdressers can change
their attitude in cutting hair; and their new attitude
can change the altitude of their profession. <
113 Japanese Salon September 2013
Get your hands on this book:
Look for this and many of
Raymonds other books on his
learn hair design website:
www.learnhairdesign.com
or visit his New Canaan Salon
Image Design Group Location on
111 Elm Street.
