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HIGH ALTITUDE
MOUNTAINEERING SEMINAR
HIGH ALTITUDE AND COLD WEATHER NUTRITION

Steve Billig
Vegetarian Nutrition Center
• Nutrition for endurance athletes
• Expedition eating
STEP 1:
• Become experienced winter campers
– Learn to cook in your vestibule
A DAY IN THE LIFE

Morning: 2 – 3 hours
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

Awake
Get dressed
Nature’s calls
Breakfast
Melt snow
Break camp
Gear up

Climb

Evening: 4 hours
• Make camp
• Make dinner
• Melt snow
COOKING STYLES
• Expedition (group) cooking
• Personal food

• cooking
• rehydration
• cold food
FOOD PACKING STRATEGIES
•
•
•
•

Complete day(s) stuff sacks
Meal bags (e.g., breakfasts, dinners)
Active and storage bags
Caching food
NUTRITION
(caveat: Everyone is unique.
Know your own body)

two categories of nutrients
Energy nutrients
• Carbohydrates
• Protein
• Fat

Non-energy nutrients
• Vitamins
• Minerals
• Fiber
• Anti-oxidants
• Water
HYDRATION
• Dramatic effect on performance
• Start out well hydrated
• Need frequent, regular gulps
– keep water easily accessible, use timer

• Use sports drinks to add calories (carbs not
protein) and electrolytes
• 2 ½ quarts is standard max. May need to
replenish.
• Standard for assessing hydration
– urine color
PHASES OF THE DAY

•
•
•
•

Pre climbing:
Climbing:
Post climbing:
Other meals:

front-load energy/water
continuous energy/water
focus on recovery
focus on nutrition and
energy
FOODS FOR PHASES
• Pre climbing:
– Mostly carbs: cereals, breads, pastas, dried fruit, Pop Tarts,
candy bars, sports drinks
– Simple carbs/sugar to closer to the activity

• Climbing:
– Simple carbs: sports bars, granola bars, sports drinks, gels.
Limit nuts.

• Post climbing:
– Start within ½ hour, mix of carbs and protein
– Recovery bars or drinks, sandwich with high protein food

• Other meals:
– Bump up protein, fats and real food (meat, sausage, beans,
grains, cheese, nuts, halva)
– Eat for pleasure
HOW MUCH FOOD?
• Calorie goal: 2,500 – 5,000 per day
– Expect to lose weight
– Vary by climbing/rest/weather days

• Weight goal
– Max 2 lbs/person/day

• How to increase calories:
– fats
– drinking calories
FOOD AND MOOD
•
•
•
•

Lift spirits
Alleviate high altitude anorexia
Try out all foods
Bring treats
TIDBITS

• In cold weather, everything that
contains moisture will freeze
– jelly, honey, cheese
– tooth paste
– sun screen
– contact lens fluids
– wet wipes

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High Altitude Mountaineering Seminar 2013 - 9.30.13 Nutrition at High Altitude

  • 1. HIGH ALTITUDE MOUNTAINEERING SEMINAR HIGH ALTITUDE AND COLD WEATHER NUTRITION Steve Billig Vegetarian Nutrition Center
  • 2. • Nutrition for endurance athletes • Expedition eating
  • 3. STEP 1: • Become experienced winter campers – Learn to cook in your vestibule
  • 4. A DAY IN THE LIFE Morning: 2 – 3 hours • • • • • • • Awake Get dressed Nature’s calls Breakfast Melt snow Break camp Gear up Climb Evening: 4 hours • Make camp • Make dinner • Melt snow
  • 5. COOKING STYLES • Expedition (group) cooking • Personal food • cooking • rehydration • cold food
  • 6. FOOD PACKING STRATEGIES • • • • Complete day(s) stuff sacks Meal bags (e.g., breakfasts, dinners) Active and storage bags Caching food
  • 7. NUTRITION (caveat: Everyone is unique. Know your own body) two categories of nutrients Energy nutrients • Carbohydrates • Protein • Fat Non-energy nutrients • Vitamins • Minerals • Fiber • Anti-oxidants • Water
  • 8. HYDRATION • Dramatic effect on performance • Start out well hydrated • Need frequent, regular gulps – keep water easily accessible, use timer • Use sports drinks to add calories (carbs not protein) and electrolytes • 2 ½ quarts is standard max. May need to replenish. • Standard for assessing hydration – urine color
  • 9. PHASES OF THE DAY • • • • Pre climbing: Climbing: Post climbing: Other meals: front-load energy/water continuous energy/water focus on recovery focus on nutrition and energy
  • 10. FOODS FOR PHASES • Pre climbing: – Mostly carbs: cereals, breads, pastas, dried fruit, Pop Tarts, candy bars, sports drinks – Simple carbs/sugar to closer to the activity • Climbing: – Simple carbs: sports bars, granola bars, sports drinks, gels. Limit nuts. • Post climbing: – Start within ½ hour, mix of carbs and protein – Recovery bars or drinks, sandwich with high protein food • Other meals: – Bump up protein, fats and real food (meat, sausage, beans, grains, cheese, nuts, halva) – Eat for pleasure
  • 11. HOW MUCH FOOD? • Calorie goal: 2,500 – 5,000 per day – Expect to lose weight – Vary by climbing/rest/weather days • Weight goal – Max 2 lbs/person/day • How to increase calories: – fats – drinking calories
  • 12. FOOD AND MOOD • • • • Lift spirits Alleviate high altitude anorexia Try out all foods Bring treats
  • 13. TIDBITS • In cold weather, everything that contains moisture will freeze – jelly, honey, cheese – tooth paste – sun screen – contact lens fluids – wet wipes