Performance profiling - Inez Webb

1. Unit 27
Task 2 – Performance Strengths and
Areas for Improvement

2. Strength 1/4
• Excellence Trait: being able to Identify weaknesses in performance
• Nez has a clear understanding of her performance and what she
needs to improve on as a whole for instance, this includes fear of
falling or even route planning. From this I have then worked my
client to identify how she will overcome this problem. Route
planning can be helped through video analysis and looking at the
difference between initially ascending up a route, compared to
planning the route. Through having video evidence you are able to
evident specific weaknesses and strengths to the athlete. Core
strength can be improved through weight training and going to the
gym or having a specific training programme set by the coach (that
works on core strength on a daily basis). Not only will having an
improved core strength improve Nez’s muscular endurance, but
also help to improve her fear of falling as she will not fatigue as
quickly.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

3. Strength 2/4
• Excellence Trait: Determination
• In Nez’s performance she has high levels of will power and
continues to power on through, when she doesn't feel she is
improving and continues to train even when having an off day. In
some case this is a good idea to continue to train, to improve ability
and fears she will deteriate even further. But on the other hand this
can cause serious injury, due to stress this can mean that
overcoming the injury can take longer. She is determined to
improve her performance from being a confident 6a climber to
being a clean 6b climber and progressing to a 7a. From listening to
the coach Nez’s high levels of motivation, and putting 100% effort
into training she reaches her full potential each training session.
Whereas athletes who do not work at 100% you can not see an
improvement as quick.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

4. Strength 3/4
• Excellence Trait: Body positioning
When on the wall Nez is able to progress up a
comfortable level of climbing well she can drop her hips
effectively and places her feet correctly. This is especially
efficient when lead climbing, as this looks at technique
rather how quickly you are able to ascend up the wall.
With leading you have a better understanding of the
climbers technique and muscular endurance on the wall.
This looks at body positing in particular, without having
the correct positioning on the wall you will fall of and not
complete the climb cleanly. Although when climbing
routes, where there is a risk of falling Nez’s technique is
lost.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

5. Strength 4/4
• Excellence Trait: Belaying ability when TR and leading
Belaying is done by the person on the ground who pulls the rope
through the belay device, this secures that the rope has the climber
and they will not fall to the bottom of the wall. Through being a
climbing instructor and holding many awards, she has also done
numerous group and independent climbing sessions As a result of this
Nez is a very confident belayer and can hold a leader fall. From these
experiences she is aware of how weight changes the distance that the
climber falls and is able to anticipate this. She also has a wider
knowledge and is confident at lead belaying when having to give out
rope ( but not to much) for the climber to ascend up the wall. The
coach’s view of Nez’s belaying is very strong and has confident with her
being able to belay any person weight and size. And uses her to belay
him on a regular basis.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

6. Development Area 1/4
• Excellence Trait: Route planning
When on the wall Nez should be able to plan her way up the wall
confidentially, through route planning this should help her be able to
do harder routes and be able to do them cleanly. To help her with
route planning this can be done through video analysis. Not only will it
show the athlete the points of the climb to improve and the mistakes
Nez makes but it will also help the coach to train Nez and how to make
changes to her performance.
Using video analysis is a very useful resource, that help you to identify
parts of performance that were strong and parts that need
improvement. It also helps to transfer performance to being able to
use different walls and improving the climbers onsite grade . When
anyone looks at Nez’s performance the video footage can be used as
evidence.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

7. Development Area 2/4
• Excellence Trait: Core strength
• Having strong core muscles make it easier to participate in physical
activity and help muscular endurance. This ensures that you are
able to complete difficult climbs, or even a number of difficult
climbs at a 6b or above grade. I believe and through the backing of
the coach that Nez increasing her core strength will also help with
her fear of falling, as at the top of the wall this is where her
technique on hard climbs is lost and she falls of. Through having
increased core strength, this means that it would help her with the
fear of falling and build her confidence. So that she is able to
complete 6b climbs cleanly. But with increased core strength Nez’s
technique should not be lost to using solely her hands to pull
herself up, she should use this added strength to climb with her
legs. This effectively conserves more energy, and as a climber would
be able to do harder climbs at a higher skill level as well as cleanly.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

8. Development Area 3/4
• Excellence Trait: Fear of falling
When Nez does climbs that are technically challenging and above her
normal level of climbing, all of her technique and skill drops very low
and her fear overwhelms her. To overcome this she needs to do some
specific fall training, to ensure that this fear does not decrease her
climbing ability. But channel this fear so she is able to overcome what
scares her on the wall and as a result climb at a higher grade at a 6b,
which would improve her self confidence and hopefully progress her
to even harder climbs. Through this fear Nez is not able to progress to
the next grade of climbing and is holding her back, this is something
that every climber feels through doing a challenging climb. But to
improve you need to overcome this fear, one way of doing this is
through subjective training that exposes Nez in high falling situations.
So that she is able to get used to falling and feeling safe and how the
coach can help her to rationalize her fear.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages

9. Development Area 4/4
• Excellence Trait: Flexibility
• Having good flexibility prevents injury to the athlete. It also
allows the climber to stretch to different holds across
panels, or even on corner panels where having a good
range of flexibility is most useful. In terms of Nez’s
performance she does not progress up the wall at a great
speed, with increased flexibility Nez’s reach would be
further and as a result would be able to complete a climb at
a faster rate. Through being faster buy having added reach,
this would conserve energy for the next time and not loose
it, from taking a long time to complete the climb. Flexibility
will also be increased through having stronger core
muscles, for instance this will help when doing a rock over.
Describe: Give a detailed account of something
Explain: Give a detailed account to give the meaning of something with reasons. Include the ‘how’ and ‘why’ of the topic of interest
Critically Analyse: Give your opinion of the subject of interest – consider all of the evidence and then write about both the advantages and
disadvantages